WIP General

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wow. really? first.

ok, I'm the anon with the daemon prince from last night and I want to magnetize the arms.
One anon last night said

>i understand what your looking for, but a daemon prince has no reason to be magnitized. litteraly 0. no dakka, you have to run wings.your stuck. just glue his ass and hold the magnets for vehicles.

But there are two reason I want to magnetize,
1.) there are different stats for using different arms
2) I think it would be cool and I want to try it

any videos or tips for doing this? my GW recommended K&J and an Anon mentioned Alibaba last night so I've got a source for the magnets.

Just kinda wondering about what I do from there.

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started work on a warp runners warhound that will be a casualty/base detail for a warlord

>>44406141
I too previously wanted to magnetize arms during the 4e codex times, where there were more generic powers besides a god-dedicated one. (most of those powers got absorbed by Tzeench unfortunately)

The only real reason to magnetize now is for generic weapon or artifact weapon.(black mace)

Because of the way the arms socket onto the torso, magnetizing them will be hard. You may need to chop up those connecting areas and use greenstuff to resculpt them, since the arms by default all sit differently.
Also, convert your fucking daemonprince you motherfucker, add your own personal flairs to it, don't just assemble it from the kit alone. Vanilla princes are boring shit for what's meant to be a good centerpiece.

>>44406141
I use Rare Earth Magnets. You're going to have to get real creative with the way you magnetize it because those sockets are weird as hell

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>>44406254
but i am playing AOS. and there are differences. Also, I just kinda want to.
>no skub.
>>44406255
strips then?

I have been looking and i like how this guys does it.
>http://bloodybeast.com/2013/11/lizardmen-carnosaur-grymloq/
He use strips of metal and paints them to look like leather and then magnets only on the models. I know it's different but I like the concept and thought maybe I could apply it to my own. I have a bastiladon im working on also and I would LOVE to be able to switch between the ark and the solar engine.

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Working on my first set of Brits. Its a squad and a 75mm howitzer. One guy from the squad broke off at the legs and he doesnt want to be glued back together so i need to pin him or have more patience with gluing the twat.

Cleaned, washed, and glued. So next its basecoating but i think i will assemble the rest one more clampack.. HQ or Weapons team. /tg/ decides ;)

>>44406312
The use of the 40k parts of the prince on there made me assume it was for 40k. I don't know AoS rules, but if you can take multiple weapons, you can easily represent the Talons with the left arm, not needing to magnetize it.

It almost might be easier for you to pin and magnetize the hand at the wrist, and switch out the weapons like that. Even easier still if you were planning on using pauldrons, which would really complicate the process of magnetizing the entire arm.

>>44406408
the chaos daemons are the only faction that plays on fantasy,40k, and AOS

>>44401083
A bit late, but thanks, anon!

>>44406312
>>44406141
Why dont you just use pins? I tried to magnetize my hive tyrant aswell and magnets do jackshit if you dont use 2-3 of them in a row, at which point you might aswell use pins.

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Need to get it together and finish this guy this week. Also working on some possessed but I haven't really liked any of the skin color choices. Oh well.

>>44406141
if the sockets are funky, as others are saying, you could consider magnetizing the wrists. just create some bracelets or overhanging armor panels for the join if they don't already exist (not familiar with this hideous kit)

>>44406230
that looks awesome. is that a metal mini flattened out with force, or did you boil a resin one?

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>>44407152
Possessed wip

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>>44407253
Also finishing some dark angels.

I'm finding that focusing and completing a couple of different models instead of trying to bang out a full squad assembly line style keeps my interest longer and results in less rushing and burnout.

What other tips does Wip have for keeping productive?

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What is a good box set of SM to get to start a new force? I'm tired of my IW getting their asses handed to them, and I think I want to try my hand at the Minotaur chapter. Going to order Asteron and Hecaton next pay check, and if I can pick up a couple boxed sets of SM then I'll get some pauldrons for conversion.

But I want this army to be my centerpiece, something I'll always be proud of, and a mix of fluffy and competitive.

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I just finished this beauty and entered her in my local clubs competition.
Third place in the single miniature category was not bad, especially as I was up against professional painters.

>>44407253
They would look better on bigger bases.

>>44407287
These look really nice. Apprehensive about starting my own DA force, there's just so many bikes, which don't seem like they'll be fun to paint.

On that note, does anyone have experience with any varieties of "liquid" greenstuff? I need something for filling small gaps, but someone told me the GW pots dry up after the first use usually.

>>44407287
>>44407253
>>44407152
CRISP. I like it bro.

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>>44406141
>literal 0 guy here
The daemon prince model as well as codex options doesn't give you much to work with.
Traditionally to do any sort of swap you break at the wrist or the hand. See attached pic. My bloodthirster can run in any setup, just by wrist cuts and magnets. If you use magnets on heavier shit it will also need a guide pin to prevent it from spinning around.

The daemon prince model has no easy areas to do any extra work on without significant surgery and greenstuffing.

If your going to hack on one I suggest using pecies from the new helbrute kit. I used a lot of its parts with my own daemon prince conversions.

The plastic DP just has terrible fittings and not even the wrists are good because of stupid bracer design.

All you can really do is with the hand that holds the staff, you can cut that and refit it with whatever weapon hand you want

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Working on a CSM Havok squad, autocannons. Got inspired to work on my CSM after I realized i could use the chaos space marine heavy bolter arms with the IG Sentinel Autocannon to make the best possible autocannon conversion

>>44407253
I fucking love these. Clean/10

>>44407152
>>44407253
>>44407287
How do you get your details to look so sharp?

I especially like the armor on the Khador warjack.

>>44408182
>best autocannon
I will not argue that. Looks majestic

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>>44407287
Fucking beautiful DA dude! Here's some of mine.

>>44407248
thanks, it's a 're-posed' metal one with a foot swap on one leg

>>44407426
The base is a bit bland. also:

>no red lipstick

>>44408850
did you do a glaze around your edges

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Look what my friends found in a shop! They told me about it and today I picked it up.

>>44410045
Carnival OP, pls nerf.

>>44410058
It's the stagecoach. I em building a carnival of chaos war band.

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>>4441005
This is what I have for a carnival of chaos. I got much more in the works.

>>44410229
>round bases
>Mordheim

>>44410251
New stuff i'm putting on round bases since in game it doesn't matter. The original models I have are on there original square bases.

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>>44407398
Anyone? I'm torn between a Demi-Company a Battle Force and the 1st Task Force, but it doesn't look like the Battle Force is as good of a deal.

> Any input here?

>>44410229
those base toppers look pretty nice

>>44410608
Thanks, my local hobby shop sells them. A good base can really make a model.

>>44410525

What about betrayl at calth

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I'm ready for ascension take me up to your Kingdom of Torture.

>>44410525
first week of january, a new box of SM will came out.

85$ for 10 Tacticals, 1 Venerable Dread and Terminator Captain (the one from Strike Force Ultra), which is a nice deal.

Any way to make a homemade agrax earthshade?

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>>44411028
Obviously water + earth.

No but seriously, do yourself the favour and buy the stuff. They even sell them in larger pots for a wee bit cheaper and if you, like me, value consitency across your army it's probably a shit idea to mix your own ink.

>>44411004
Oh shit, really? That's good news.

is it a general release? Because that'll make getting the strikeforce captain a whole lot cheaper.

>>44410660
it's a shame they're not a bit thinner but I bet they work really nice on lipped bases if they're the right size

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>>44407152
still a nice clean paintjob anon!

also reposting less pateto banner pic,

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Does someone own this guy and can compare it to a W40k unit?

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>>44411840
The smallest figure in this picture is on a 30mm base.

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>>44412192
>>44411840
Here's a better comparison.

>>44411028

If you need a lot of it but don't want to spend like $50 on a bunch of pots, Vallejo sells big tubs of wash. They should have a dark brown one but it probably won't be a perfect match. Army Painter also sells large paint cans of dip, but that's much thicker and glossier than normal washes. Still, it's cheaper and you can spoon some out and thin it down.

>>44408850

I'm more interested in your table and terrain.

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Finished up my death guard drednought, he is one armed until i can find a second assault cannon.

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I'm hoping someone can identify this bit that came in my Rapier Laser Destroyer baggie. I don't think it was supposed to be in there. It looks a little miscast on the top side too.

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To the guy who did this, would you mind telling me how you did this? Colours and order etc.? It looks amazing, would really like to paint my IG like this.

Really well done.

>>44412723
Drill those barrels, anon.

>>44412889
Figured it out. It's a http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-NL/Razorback-Assault-Cannon-Turret They must have mispackaged it. Guess I can use it for stuff.

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World Eaters Tac squad WIP, trying for a clean look because eeeeeeeeeeeeeeveryone does them covered in blood and over weathered. I will probably save weathering and blood for champs and characters only and sparingly until the army is done.

>>44411083
I agree with this.

>>44409956
Multiple times.

>>44412215
>>44412192
Neat, how easy is it to assemble?

>>44413589
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=joukgB6HkeY

You should probably pin it, and PP has some QC issues and tend to have mold lines in really obnoxious places, but normally the newer stuff is pretty solid.

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Working on my first serious attempt at painting a model, pretty happy with how it's coming so far. Making all kinds of small mistakes, but that's the point ain't it?

So far, I've learned:
- Highlights are a hell of a drug. Use them sparingly...
- It is good to thin your paints, but there does exist such a thing as paint that is too thin.
- Be patient with the basecoats; trying to rush it plugged up some of the chainmail links and they look less stellar now.
- You can have a surprising amount of a control even with a big brush.
- You can have a surprising lack of control even with a small brush.
- Plan out your color palette more thoroughly. In an effort to make the plate look more distinctive than the chainmail I washed it to look all rusty, but then I put the leather on and you can barely tell the difference. Gonna have to redo that platemail...

What do you guys think for the plate; would a dark metal tint look good?

What base paint should I use if I have Lothern Blue? I want to use it as a highlight

>>44413905
I use Caledor Sky, then Alaitoc Blue, then finally Lothorn Blue.

>>44413905

Teclis Blue is the brightest blue right under Lothern. It ain't that bright though. You might want to use Lothern Blue as your main color and mix some white in to highlight or use Baharroth Blue as highlight.

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Made some progress on a rail worker, I tried painting the skin different to how I normally do it and i'm pretty happy with the results so far

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>>44410924
Minotaurs weren't around in 30k anon. But I would love a 30K Minotaur army.
>>44411004
That's awesome news. Looks like I'll be waiting until after my Bday to buy new models then.

>>44413830
I think its looking great, especially for the first time. Couple of tips -

In the pic the color gradient transition on the skin is a little harsh, I'm not sure what paints your using but I'd start with your base skin color and slowly add your lighter colors to make highlights, keeping your paint very thin, and painting a smaller and smaller area with each pass as the color gets lighter. That'll help make it more a smooth transition. Then you can even over highlight and apply a wash at the end to bring all the colors together.

With the armor, as you said the wash made it look similar in color to the leather, you could try going back and neatening up the base color of the armor, leaving the wash in the recesses, then highlight from there. Same with the leather, even if the sculpt has no detail, often times a wash will darken the color slightly, then you can highlight with the base color, giving a bit of depth.

And with the chainmail, if you only have one silver color, try mixing a little black into the base coat to make it darker, then after a wash you can dry brush the straight silver onto it to make it pop.

Just curious, are you using the Reaper how to paint kit? If so how do you like it? Thought about getting one for a friend.

>>44414214
That looks fantastic, really nice work.

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Anyone bought any Frostgrave boxsets?

Are they the exact same scale as GW stuff? Because I want to make a Mordheim warband, with them and a GW witchhunter and warrior priest etc.

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Assembled a 10 man group of skeletons, looking nice so far. Plan to have the shields be half purple half black with a coat of arms decaled on all of them later.

>>44414834
Thanks for the tips, anon.

Yeah, the flesh highlights are very egregious; I'm using the Army Painter mega paint set, and I just used the straight colors from the bottles (greenskin, green tone ink, goblin green, necrotic flesh). What you suggest definitely sounds better, and moving forward will have to try that.

For the chainmail, the basecoat I used gun metal, washed it with dark tone ink, and then tried dry brushing some shining silver on it. The dry brush didn't really feel like it did much, though. I'm pretty happy with it in the end though.

For the plate I think I'm just going to start over. I'll try your suggestion but I'm not sure how much can be salvaged.

The leather, all I've got on there is a basecoat. Still lots of work to be done. there.

Gonna get back to it. In the end, this is just a throwaway model I've got to cut my teeth on, so it's okay if it ends up being imperfect. It's supposed to be a learning experience, which it definitely is proving to be.

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>>44415161
Exact same scale in my experience, as opposed to reaper figurines which are far too big

Working on magnetizing mine right now due to the myriad of equipment options

>>44415331
sweet, thanks man.

>>44415161
I bought a box of the cultists a few weeks ago, still haven't done anything with them yet but when I do they'll be for my classic Mordheim Possessed warband. I already have another Possessed band but the "regular" cultist look doesn't suit the theme I have for them(daemon worshiping pleasure cult, used a dockside brothel as a front before the comet struck).

Sorry I dont lurk here so I apologize for this dumb question in advance.

Im new to the whole painting miniatures thing. Got some board games from xmas (zombicide and shadows of brimstone) and both have a bunch of miniatures that are just dying for some paint.

How should I go about when buying paints for these? Should I just make a list of paints Im probably going to need and get them individually or are there any paint sets I should look into and buy?

>>44418344
The Army Painter sells Zombicide paint bundles. Just get one of those and a few extra to fit Shadows of Brimstone, and you are good. You will need to prime those things too, and painting of course requires at least three brushes. For primer brush primer in the form of Vallejo's or spray primer like The Army Painter's should be good. For brushes The Army Painter and Vallejo sell reasonably priced ones that can fit your needs. I would recommend getting a standard brush, a detail brush, and a big fat brush for basecoating/drybrushing.

>>44418509
I have some rust-oleum brand primer for plastic. would that effect anything? i would imagine it would generally be the same thing.

>>44418639
Hardware brand primer is totally fine. Krylon is some good shit, and I imagine that rust-oleum wouldn't be fine. Just test a model and see if the paint gets on too thick. If it does drop the model in degreaser overnight, while you head to the local hobby or hardware store to get a different brand.

>>44418687
*would be fine

>>44413105
really needs blacklining done, maybe get a micron pen or just be really careful with wash

>>44418687
ah right, the thickness of it. didnt take that into consideration. ill test it out anyways though.

Thanks for the advise. Hopefully ill post my WIP here in the future.

Was watching Striking Scorpions latest battle report and I loved his dead/ash tree terrain. Had anyone done or bought something similar to it?
https://youtu.be/wPIIoGsJZvE

>>44412914
Please respond

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>>44419252
What would compel Dark Eldar to fight Orks? Wouldnt the Dark Eldar detect them early and just flee? Why bother fighting Orks?

>>44420291
They make great fighters for their arenas.

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>>44420070

Not that guy, but it look pretty clear cut to me. Looks like he used Cadian green for the armor with Catachan green highlights. The clothing looks like a base of Chaos black with a liberal drybrush of codex or fortress grey. Not sure if you're looking for specific colors or techniques he's used, and I don't have the new names of the GW paints memorized yet. I agree that it definitely looks good.

Here's a picture of some Stormtroopers i've recently finished.

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>>44420385

... and some Bullgryns

>>44420385
>>44420419
Thanks man I have like 40 infantry I made and primed but haven't painted because I keep struggling for what scheme I want. I've also got 20 more I'm making because I just keep putting off going for a scheme but these look really nice, thanks.

>>44420444

It's a good possibility the armor of his infantry is Dark Angel green with Cadian Green highlight. So you may need to play around with the colors or get someone else to confirm.

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That was a lot of fun. I should do this again some time. Certainly learned a lot of shit about how to do this better in the future, and for a first try I'm really quite pleased with myself. Only took all day.

>>44407858
>codex
>implying I'm not playing AoS

And I see your attached pic, and it looks horrible. Thin your paints n00b. It looks like it was painted by a child.
Don't take this the wrong way, but you clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

it doesn't even have a staff as a weapon, I don't think you could be less informed if you tried.

>>44421242
>implying I'm not playing AoS
please
go

>>44420373
oh, well that makes a little sense

>>44421272
But I am.
Its great.
My wife and I have a great time with it.
I do a storm cast/seraphon army and she runs a horns/chaos daemon army.

It fixed all the issues with fantasy. Plus the scenarios and fluff are awesome.

>>44421242
The questions were about pinning, not painting :^)

And I suppose your right, I think it was an axe handle? Been so long since I've seen the kit.

I'm glad your enjoying AoS though. Those models are quite nice.

I know your mad for some reason, but the axe arm offers a lot for conversion by just placing a rounded magnet at the end like all staff conversions.

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>>44421242
Whoopsadoodle, forgot the pic :^)

>>44413052
give it to this dude
>>44412723

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>>44406380
finished my paratroopers a few weeks ago.
working on my Fallschirmjäger now.

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>>44422489

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>>44422501
kit-bash LMG team

>>44421447
>2016 -2 days
>baiting this hard

>>44421288
Orks also make strong workers. When Archon Vraesque wanted a giant statue of himself built, he captured a bunch of orks to do it. His territory in Commoragh was filled with poisonous fumes so his human slaves kept dying, but orks were more resistant and finished the monument.

>>44422514
That looks great. I wonder why no other Nation did this "over the shoulder"-pose to fire their lmg

>>44423119
British focus was on getting as close to the ground as possible, so they just went with putting magazines in places other than underneath their shooties rather than cool action poses.

>>44423119
>>44423177
maybe because German doctrine was very LMG heavy with supporting fire on the move? so instead of setting it up on the ground they kneeled down, fired and moved again. no?

>>44423119
The close your ear is to the muzzle of the gun, the more damage it can do to your hearing. I am pretty sure that it would suck to be the guy holding the barrel, but perhaps a /k/ommando can elaborate more on this subject.

>>44412914
Bump, I want to know where did he get the head of the officer, and if I could put a new hat on it.

>>44421242
Get off the internet kid.

>>44424228
Tempestus scions kit.

>>44424228
You'd need to cut the hat off, as it's moulded to the head, but not impossible.

>>44413694
Holy fuck, thats a lot of cutting before you get to actual model, especially the wings.

>>44422985
The sad part is you think its bait.

So I bought some citadel dry golden griffon to try out their dry range, and the paint came as a sort of thick, rubber-like block.

Is it supposed to be like this or did I get bad paint?

Hey /WIP/

I want to thank you for recommending Vallejo Surface primer for brush on priming. Just got the bottle from mail and tested it on some bits and one model. Turns out it's great, and solved my problems. Next year shall see the painting begin!

>>44426038
Big cave-at, I haven't used the stuff, like at all.

I think it's supposed to be very thick paint, as it only needs to stick to a brush a little to work properly. If it's actually rock solid, something may be wrong, but it should be super gunky from what I've seen.

>>44426042
Glad it all worked out. :D Happy priming Anon.

>>44426074
It's kind of like gelatin

I guess it's intended then

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I'm planning on giving that guy an incubi mask , and hellions blade to use him as drazhar master of blades , would it be a good idea ?

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>>44426138
That kind of pose

>>44426138
he needs to be spikier

>>44421447
>it fixed all the issues with fantasy

Ugh

Currently putting together some flickering smoke for vehicle wrecks. Wondering if the wool will stick together more once I spray paint it. Seems pretty brittle

>>44421447
I do believe you and a lot of others have fun.
But I highly doubt AoS fixed anything wrong with Fantasy, do I have to remind you how fucking shitty some Khemri models looked, not to mention some shitty rules?
If GW would have paid at least SOME attention to some races/codices we wouldnt have needed AoS and Im convinced its just a quick cashgrab to get some 12 year olds pocket money.

>>44426905

Despite based Duncans glorious videos on painting them, the new AoS models are pretty hideous desu m88s. And the names
>Bloodsecrator

>>44427056
I dont know, the Khorne stuff looks quite good, names aside, but the sigmarines are just... well sigmarines.

>>44426765
Yeah, It will, Ive done the same.

>>44427118
Sweeeet thank you. Also how long do these batteries last?

>>44408596
Thin paints and lots of coats
I am liking P3's paints more and more as well for how they behave compared to my vallejo

>>44420419
Nice bullgryns, guy

>>44427082
Anecdote:
A toy store with a wargaming section near me recently closed down. So they put their shit gradually on sale. I bought some kits and paints at -30%. At the end they had a sale of -40 to -50% on everything. Went there to see if they maybe had something interesting left and sure enough most of the kits were already gone but 4 various Sigmarine boxes and the AoS starter kit.

Shit wouldn't even sell for 50% off.

>>44427610
maybe in your area.
that shit would be gone so fast here in the 559

considering stripping my entire IG army to repaint them with an urban scheme.
should I customize the lasrifles to make them more light machinegun like? any ideas/tips?

>>44427743
unless you made the bonds easy i wouldnt recommend it.
also unless its las, auto guns always look like cultists/trader guard weapons.

try one and see if you still like the look

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>>44427727

because there is always ebay

>>44427782
nah more of lasguns.
do you have pics of people that actually did this? I remember a drawing of an urban themed IG infantryman

>>44427082

The basic khorne warriors look ok, but I don't like that they're a kind of marauder/chaos warrior hybrid, but things like the guy with his 4' long ponytail bound in a spine and the varanguard (or w/e they're called) just look terribly meh. And the $9,000 fortress of doom is really stupid.

I've been so disgusted with AoS and the AoSification of 40k that I've pretty much sworn it off for mordheim and historicals, but this thread makes me want their new paints and brushes ;_;

>>44427972
>and brushes
I bought a glaze brush on a whim.
Shitsthe tip fucking more precise than their shitty detail brush, no clue why.

>$9,000 fortress
Hah, yeah, I honestly dont know what they were thinking, who would buy it and put that stuff on a table?
I would be afraid as fuck that someone smashes it

>>44428001
>glaze brush

Are the "glazes" basically the same as old-school inks? Basically a wash but shiny? Back in the day I was all butthurt that they discontinued the inks because red ink was my go-to for blood effects and squigs

>>44428059
They have blood for the blood god now and its really good, like most of their technical stuff.

>Are the "glazes" basically the same as old-school inks?
I cant comment on that

>>44428059
Nope, the inks were much more colour intense.
Btw, the Windsor & Newton Inks are super close in intensity and colour of the old GW inks, you may want to look into getting some of those to try then.

Their glazes are basically highly translucent paints, they dry mostly flat (slightly glossier than the normal paints, but not too much).
They only really tint and intensify existing colours, they're nowhere near as strong as the inks were. They're primarily used to help bind colours together (works really well on bright yellow and red for instance).

>>44428218
Yeah the Technical paint line is really good, and that's coming from a guy that uses mostly Vallejo stuff. I have Typhus Corrosion, Martian Ironearth, and Nurgle's Rot.

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Can't figure out how to do the flesh I want. Any suggestions? The one on the left looks closest to what I want, I just want a cleaner way of doing it

>>44428059
Glazes brighter the entire colour or tint it if you put it on any other colour that isnt the glaze (yellow glaze on metal will make a yellow tint to the metal), depending on how you use it.

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I'm having some trouble picking colors for my Izamu, more specifically his sword sheaths, banner, and polearm.

Any suggestions?

I-i finally listened guys, I bought my drill yesterday. Now waiting for it to be delivered and then start the fun.

I also remove my moldlines. A-are you proud of me now anon?

>>44428871
Good job Anon!

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>>44428871

>>44428871
>>44428909
>>44429034
bit of an off-/tg/ question, but how viable is it to remove mold lines from things like plastic toys the way you do tabletop models?

>>44429081
the main problem is usually the type of plastic used.
The stuff used for toys generally isn't as "soft" as polystyrene plastic is, it's usually much harder and denser stuff.
That makes it surprisingly difficult to get a perch on for mould-line removal.

It's possible obviously, but it would be a lot of hard work.

>>44428579
base with rakarth flesh, then be more careful with your washes instead of just tossing them across the entire model

>>44414809
... Minotaurs are famous for having older, cooler marks such as mark 4.

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how do i shade this banner and loin cloth so it doesnt look like shit?

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>>44428826
When in doubt, look for historical reference.

>>44429546

Huh. I wonder why that never crossed my mind.

That being said, your example looks pretty much perfect. Now I gotta sharpen up on my freehanding skills or start shopping around for skull transfers.

>>44420890
For a first try that is damn good.

>>44429507
you get gud.

Honestly though seconding this, I cant shade fabric for shit.

>>44428871

Pathetic conformist FAGGOT

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is this a Johnny?

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r8 my scheme

>>44431884
No, Johnny wears red.

>>44431884
Crap, wish I could find a Craig.

I'd love to make a mold and crank out a shit load of those little bastards.

>>44431921
he will if I can confirm it's him and then buy him
>>44431958
I've been looking for one for a while. This one's on eBay for a decent price (pls don't steal)

>>44420419
Why do they wear the masks?

>>44431918
Done to death/10

Least paint the gun blood red like ye olden days

>>44431918
seen it 1000X times

>>44429507
What blue is that?

>>44432573
Ultramuhnigga Blue

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Hey WIP

I'm slapping together a Ordo xeno inquisitor from bits I have laying around and this is him so far. The cannon on the power fist is ment to represent a Beamer.

It's still pretty early all the cloth is only base coated. But as I took the photo I noticed it needs more touch up...but yeah R8 me m8 .

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>>44433186
All the fucking photos are tilted.


Fuck.

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Help me /tg/, I want to paint some marines and I've narrowed my choices down to these two, which scheme should I go for?

>>44433572
if you think you can pull off the Howling Griffons scheme decently i'd so go for that. Painting yellow and a quartered scheme at that is a bit too hardcore for me personally though.

I hate to ask this but what is a really good painting service? I do not mind paying I am NOT cheap and im making a lot of money right now but I do not have the time or the living conditions to paint all of these models I have. On the rare chance I do you have free time I would really like should be able to play some games with both painted miniatures. I literally cannot paint or prime or do anything using those kind of paint or chemicals in my current living space though and it is not going to change for the foreseeable future so this is my best alternative I think.

Thanks in advance!

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>>44412914
>>44420070
Ok, so colours:
Primer: black (I used both GW and some other hardware store brand)

Armour and Gun: Base of "Castellan green", highlights of "death world forest". Gun metallic parts get coloured with a metal colour, I wanted "boltgun metal", but only had Martha Stewarts "gunmetal".

Fatigues: Base of black (primer), drybrush first layer of "charcoal grey" (FolkArt), drybursh top layer of "slate grey" (Americana). Don't apply the slate grey to the gloves/boots/helmet straps, instead use charcoal grey to highlight the edges.

Belt: "burnt umber" (Americana) base, with gentle highlights along the edges with "nutmeg" (FolkArt)

Skin: About 50/50 mixture of "country twill" (FolkArt) and "buff beige" (Americana). Highlight the nose/cheeks/jaws very gently with "country twill".

Washes: Wash the skin a few times with "seraphim sepia" until the guys lose that pasty white guy look and the crevices are a bit darker. Wash everything else with "nuln oil", I even do the guns this way very gently. Make sure the gloves have that glossy leather look.

Details: Insignias are plain white, drybrush the winged skull insignias so the crevices remain black, do flat shading if there is no detail (the general has gold). Do a gentle wash with nuln oil to bring out details in the wings if needed. Anything red is either "cherry red" (Americana) or "true burgundy" (FolkArt). The generals hat is a base of the burgundy with drybrushed cherry red for texture.


I think that covers most of it, or at least the general idea. I am sure you could find a way to determine which GW paints are the best match for the paints I've listed.

>>44424228
I used a tempestus scions head. You could try to change the hat, but its on their tightly and would be hard to cleanly remove.

>>44429507
I've found an easy, decent-looking way to shade fabric is to wash the whole area with a single generous coat of Agrax or Nuln oil (depending on colour of fabric), then drybrush over that with the original colour. Never underestimate washes.

>>44432118
To look like Bane of course

>>44433641
I'm fairly confident I could do it, I've painted yellow before with decent results. I really do love that paint scheme

>>44420070
>please respond
Kek, memes are real

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>>44431921
>No, Johnny wears red.

Yeah, but sometimes ...

>>44431958
Yes that is a brother craig/johnny.
Last I checked nobleknightgames on ebay had one mixed in a lot of some other RT.

>>44434349
>>44431884
so is that him? if those are yours I'd be grateful if you could send me a picture of one from the same angle

>>44434401
cool thanks. I can't find one from him, he's pretty expensive anyways. The one I'm looking at is with another RT marine. Going to make an offer and hopefully no one beats me to it.

>>44434471
Better get on it anon, good shit don't stay with Lazarus for long.
I look through lots with smaller sellers because people usually don't like to look through the lots

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>>44434415
Yes this is johnny.

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Working on this guy I got for Christmas.
How am I doing so far? This is the largest model I've ever painted
How's the blue chitin? That's all I would consider done so far

>>44435016
I like the scheme, the bone still has some rough spots though.
Chitin looks great.

>>44435016

How'd you do the chitin?

Anyone have the guide on how to paint white?

>>44435071
Yeah I still need to dry brush it
>>44435092
High elves way
Basecoat Caledor Sky dry brush Teclis blue dry brush lothern blue and then small edge with lothern blue again

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>>44435016

From the thumbnail, I thought you'd gotten a Tachikoma for Christmas!

>>44423731
You... ah would actually need to... ah be closer to where the bullet is fired, not the end of the barrel, to do any serious damage, thank you.

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finished off this guy apart from basing, i'm pretty happy with how it's turned out

>>44435250
Thanks Shatner.

>>44435263
Strangely quaint model, absurd proportions but it works with the pose.

Either way, well done on the paintjob

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Finally painted my generals arm, I probably should invest in something to hold the small pieces.... lots of finger grease rubbing paint off or smudging it :/

>>44433724
>Fucking Walmart paint to resultsthat nicce
If only I had the patience to thinthose out correctly

>>44436172
the arm in a sling was definitely the right choice over the chainsword

>>44436172
just use a paint pot and some blutack

Having some trouble coming up with a color scheme for my eldar. I want to use green, but not make them Biel-Tan so my options are limited, any advice.

>>44436290

Not really worth it. Time is money and most of us don't have all day to paint. I'd rather drop the extra two bucks or so on a tiny bottle of model paint, since I don't usually run out of that too often.

The bigger bottles are great for terrain where you WILL run out and don't need super thin skeet skeet blends.

>>44436594
Ya I agree, I'm gonna head down to my FLGS and bring the shitty walmart bottles with me so I can match them up to GW. The Castellan Green and Death World Forest were so easy to handle and apply compared to the pasty shit.

>>44436385
Ya, if I had gone with the sword it would have stuck out to the same length as his pistol. Someday I'm gonna convert myself a mini-chainsword.

How would I got about make wood in a winter biome look dead? Get that sort of faded brown look

>>44428218
>>44428248
>>44428709

Thanks for all the answers! I was trying to figure it out from the Duncan videos but still couldn't really tell

>Btw, the Windsor & Newton Inks are super close in intensity and colour of the old GW inks, you may want to look into getting some of those to try then.

I will look into those, the inks were finicky and stinky and made terrible flesh washes but I still liked em for anything I wanted to look shiny or wet

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Started working on my other Mage Hunter Assassin. Finished the skin, hair, and eyes.

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My second kit ever, first attempt at highlights and basing. Thoughts?

>>44437708

Fuck you, resize your image.

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Worked a bit on my Dakkajet today

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>tfw never got anything from the secret santa

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I've got an entire Cult Mechanicus, Skitarii, and Imperial Knights combined army to assemble and paint. Holidays were good this year. I've gotten everything assembled but my Knight, due to a need for bigger magnets.

Must serve omnissiah!

Here's a pic of the Skitarii beginnings. Now up to a full Battle Maniple and cult mechanicus army.

>>44437708
Not bad at all m8

WIP, my friend is attempting to strip a model that was primed in a less than perfect manner. Simple green didn't work for him. Harsher chemical needed. Suggestions?

>>44438138

I'm sorry, Anon, I just couldn't afford it this year what with the medical costs.

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>>44439140
>WIP, my friend is attempting to strip a model that was primed in a less than perfect manner. Simple green didn't work for him. Harsher chemical needed. Suggestions?

Metal? Pull out all the stops.

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>>44439240
>Metal?

Plastic? Give non-acetone nail polish remover a try. If that doesn't work, administer The Emperor's Peace.

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got some more done on these, washes all done and metals picked out, now the long ass task of high lighting all the white, doing the ammo packs accessories and weapons.

>>44411083
the label is fucking slanted.

>>44439256
Thanks, Anon.

>>44439541
Those are some beautiful World Eaters.

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Working on my Fallschirmjäger

>>44439876
for some reason that name made me want to go back to Austria for some Kaiserschmarrn.

>>44439707

It's actually not. For some reason the design is tilted slightly, so if you apply the label to the pot perfectly, the text for the paint name and Citadel logo will be level, but all the shield windows will be crooked, and the tiny copyright font on the back is crooked to match the shield window.

>>44440098
That's infuriating.

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Got a start too one of my slaanesh champions gonna redo some of the head and get more dets into him

Forgive me /wip/ for I have sinned; I will no longer use Agrax Earthshade and instead just use really watery paint as a wash. I find that it works better and isn't as heavy.

>>44440621

Use acrylic medium not water.

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How do I get the reddening around wounds and spots like in the picture right?

It just looks odd and obviously paint on mine.

>>44423119

Every other nation had an mmg too heavy. The US used the Browning 1919 and the Brits the Vickers Mk 1, both of which used a tripod. The russians used a maxim with it's own wheeled carriage.

There were bipod guns, like the bren, Bar and DP-28, but they didnt have the same rate of fire. The mg-42 and 34 were the only ones light enough to be realistically deployed without a tripod, but which still benefitted from using your mate as an improvised tripod.

>>44440657
the thought had crossed my mind briefly, thanks!

>>44431918
not really nazi/10
looks gr8 m8 no h8

>>44420291

Sport and slaves mostly. DE have ways of cleansing entire planets of Ork spores so they won't be able to respawn for a while after they're all killed.

>>44440721
Layered super thin washes.

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>>44435146
You mean this one Anon?

>>44441518
Thanks, I'll give that a try.

>>44438138
Whats your first name anon?

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I'm working on a Nurgle Chaos lord, and this is what I've got so far. The base will be drainage-exit-pipe, with sewage and whatnot leaving the pipe. Still don't know what to do with the left arm

Any Critiques and tips are appreciated. Do keep in mind that this is before any Green Stuff.

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>>44441991

>>44438138
Where are you from anon?

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>>44442003

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how does this scheme look? face is just basecoated.

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Just did my first volcanic base using the GW guide

My only worry is that from a distance it may look like the bases are unpainted.
thoughts?

>>44442000
cool idea for the base, nice get too

>>44442149
I like it. Looks like what I'd imagine a volcanic tundra world would look like

>>44437685
you could do with cleaning up the highlights on the hair, assuming you're going for the neat cel-shaded effect

>>44435016
I understand the skulls are there for stability, but he looks like he's wearing tiny yellow slippers

>>44442149
>My only worry is that from a distance it may look like the bases are unpainted.
Paint the edge in orange or something and the problem disappears.

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warhound leg flames done

>>44436172
That's a pretty old school las pistol.

>>44442149
Put some bright yellow in there. Up the contrast.

>>44429507
I just bought some marines and gonna paint them ultramarines scheme.

Im going for a "cool white" look, so blueish white.

Im thinking:
Celestra grey base
ulthuan grey all over layer
focused shade nuln oil/ agrax earthshade
edge highlight white scar

>>44442360
It's an autopistol. The old laspistol is a beefier version of the catachan laspistol

Two questions, /WIP/:

1. Should paint on varnish be thinned before application? I've got Army Painter Anti-Shine Matte Varnish, and I've always instinctively thinned it a bit before application and that works but I'm curious if that's how it should be done.

2. Is there any safe way to remove super glue from a PVC plastic model? I've got some minis from a board game I adore, but they were assembled by Chinese factory workers who clearly did not give a shit. I'd love to be able to melt the super glue on them and reassamble them myself with proper TLC and some greenstuff, but I don't know what form or brand of chemical to use to try and melt the gaps.

>>44442003
>>44442020
that skin on the dragon needs some more layering and work. the banner isn't bad at all, cleaner then what i could do

>>44442545
1. No need to thin down, just apply as normal with care not to blob it on
2. Freeze it. Snap the super glue

>>44442545
>2. Is there any safe way to remove super glue from a PVC plastic model? I've got some minis from a board game I adore, but they were assembled by Chinese factory workers who clearly did not give a shit. I'd love to be able to melt the super glue on them and reassamble them myself with proper TLC and some greenstuff, but I don't know what form or brand of chemical to use to try and melt the gaps.

You could try freezing the models (put stuff in baggies first). 20-30 minutes will usually be enough.

Most types of super-glue contain a lot of water given how the chemical reaction for them works.
Freezing the glue expands the water and breaks the bonds apart.
You should then be able to take the models apart relatively easily, and then clean up the connections.

The PVC itself couldn't care less about the cold, so it won't be harmed.

>>44442238
There's too many fucking skulls on this thing man.
I just counted, they're 42 in the way im building it, not including dead faces and skeleton bitz.
God dammit, why does GW have such a hard on for skulls?

>>44442979
skulls are cool dude, i carry mine on me everywhere i go

>>44442017
>>44441954
California

>>44443357
Okay you're not that guy I posted mine out to, but the other anon that asked might be your guy

>>44444468

looks cool

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Lighting up my Kaladrax

>>44444557
That gives me an idea.

>put LEDs in a huge model
>hide them and their wires with greenstuff and creative painting
>attach the wires to an arduino or similar tiny scale microcontroller underneath the base
>power plug still visible
>plug it in
>arduino turns model into a walking lightshow

>>44442379
This. It need more contrasts and bright, almost white points in underlaying basecoat.

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>>44442617
thnx anon! irl it's got a blue'ish hue over it, with some pink. it's all blended witt shadow grey and warlock purple, maybe i should take pics outside with a darker background

also, pic is how i bought it

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this is a dry-fit of the lord. Should I keep this arm or use the gun-arm in the next pic?

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>>44445698
said gun-arm. I've tried to re-create a Bile-Spewer from DoW2

>>44442149
Highlight the black floating bits somehow (drybrush, edge-highlight if you've got more time than sense).

>>44442149
Did you do the white-yellow-orange 'undercoat' differently than Duncan? His seemed to have better contrast between the obsidian and lava.

So I always prime my minis because I've always been told to. What happens if you start painting on a plastic miniature without giving it a coat of primer first, like right off the sprue? (I know for resin your paint will definitely flake right off due to the release agent.)

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So, to try and recreate this kind of effect on a model, do you guys think the following would be a good course of action?:

- Basecoat turquoise
- Thin green wash
- Highlight turquoise, edge highlight of light blue + turquoise mix
- Very light dry brush of green

Working on a lizardman model with scales.

>>44445927
it'll depend on the paint, but in most cases the paint won't bond with the plastic nearly as well as a primer would. Making the paintjob much more fragile. You might rub stuff off for instance.

>>44442307
'Paint me like one of your french wargames, anon'

>>44445975

Why the green? Except for a hint of green on the head between the eyes, there isn't any on the lizard.

What you want is desaturation.

>dark turquoise
>shade it
>highlight with a brighter turquoise
>finish off with a mix of turquoise and baby blue

>>44445975
it also has some yellow in it anon, on the feet and some splotches on it's body. if you use a yellow was on those area's and do the rest as you described i think it will be a very nice scheme, i shall check the w.i.p. threads for updates

>>44439256
Not that anon, but I used non-acetone nail polisher once. Killed my mini. -1/10 would not recommend

>>44445698
Both look good, anon. Go with your heart

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>>44442379
this

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I am trying to decide how I want to do my Crons. Their one foresure color is Warlock Bronze. They are all primed with Platemail Army painter.

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Suggestions on how to paint this guy? Im making is eyes yellow like the spider itself, no idea for his spider cape thing and staff though

>>44447578
paint him like a clown, red afro and all, and make his stick into a magic wand.

>>44431918
You should be using a stippling brush for snow camo.

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>>44447578
Blue is lucky color, yes?

>>44420890

For a first try that is immense. You definitely have the patience, which is a key skill.

The belly plate looks great, though the chainmail is a little flat. I'd wash it black and then pick out the loops again. The highlights on the skin too, like I say they're a cracking first effort, and in time you could use a green wash or try wet blending to make them more subtle.

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Almost finished my Arcanists now, got 3 fire gamin to paint and that shouldn't take very long at all. I'm happy i've finally made a dent in my painting backlog

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>>44447864
and a closeup of the rail workers i've been doing for the last few days.

>>44447578
I made the spider legs blue, it looked good

Give him a lots of flashy colors

>>44442149
didnt he say the thicker you put it on the bigger the cracks? Maybe thicken it up in the middle, or edges.

Any britbongs know of a decent long desk? Or an "Ikea-hack" or anything?

Been salivating over some of the set-ups I've seen on the internet, but having a look at a few furniture websites, I can't see any desks over 4 feet.

>>44448571
make your own? Standard Wall mounts and some legs and you can basically mount any size surface to a wall and turn it into a desk.

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>>44448571

For a workstation I mean, posted a little early. I see a lot of corner desks but I need something a little longer, preferably with a couple of draws and bookshelves.

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>>44448716

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So my paint-on primer has gotten old and chunky. No matter how much I shake it, or how much medium I add, the primer comes dry and won't spread evenly onto my models. It makes some parts of my model look thick, while on other parts the paint won't grip to the primer underneath. Is there any way to save my primer bottle, or should I just snatch up a new bottle?

Pic related, its a wip goblin nasty skulker model that I'm going to use for frosgrave, you can see the weird primer consistency in a few places on the model, like on his vest and knife.

>>44442124
splotchy as fuck/10

nowhere near blended enough to look like anything other than slapped on paint.

>>44448790

Which primer?

>>44448780
First thing I saw too. Looks like an extremely rapey Ninja Turtle is coming for Anon.

>>44449198
Citadel. I also have a Reaper paint on primer, but that one is white.

>>44442124
The contrast between the armour base colour and the highlights is huge. Unless this guy is supposed to have lines drawn on his armour IRL, you need to tone down the highlight brightness. A dark grey would be more suitable. Also, make the highlights thinner and center them on the actual edge of the surface.

>>44447889
Beautiful work anon. You are a talented painter.

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Got my temporary worstation set up at the winter cottage. Surprisingly comfy and calm for painting and converting.

>>44429507
Honestly i tend to use less shades and more layers on fabric. For instance, on that i would base the cloth rakarth flesh, drybrush bone, then highlight the raised areas with screaming skull. Washes tend to get everywhere on surfaces with a lot if flat area. Use thin layers on the rakarth for the smoothest effects. Hope that helps

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Been kitbashing some Orlocks

>>44442000
Where is that head from?

>>44451587
Looks like a Blight Knight head to me.

>>44439256

Don't forget Ye Olde Simple Green Concentrate.

I used a mystery cleaner from an unmarked barrel which I was told was more or less simple green to strip a metal mini, and only after removing the paint did I notice that a few minor parts on it were plastic, and they turned out fine.

>>44407152

>2k of Blood Angels
>still in plastic
>live near Seattle so it's PP all the way
>no opponents to play
>no motivation to paint them

Should I just sell these and keep a Sanguinary Guard or Tactical box for 'fun'?

>>44428248
>>44428709
can you use a yellow glaze on something you're trying to paint yellow to bring out the yellow?

>>44452124
Yeah, it'll brighter it more

So I'm doing some bad moonz orks, and I want to know, for the layer yellow color, should I use Yeirl Yellow and then highlight with flash-gits yellow, or just do Flash Gits.

This thread has saged. Long live the new thread:

>>44452439

>>44452387
yriel>flash gitz
straight flash gitz covers poorly, and isnt really nice to look at

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>>44442422
>It's an autopistol. The old laspistol is a beefier version of the catachan laspistol

This is the Second Edition close combat weapons sprue: on the right, from the top: bolt pistol, autopistol, hand flamer, laspistol, and plasma pistol.

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>>44453138

... and here's the First Edition sprue. I don't personally have any of these in my possession.

3 bolt pistols
3 autopistols
2 hand flamers
2 stub guns
1 hand crossbow
1 sawn-off shotgun
1 plasma pistol

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>>44452460
>This thread has saged. Long live the new thread.

See ya there, ladz!

>>44405721

Just got a bunch of historicals for chrimbus (warlord phalangites, macedonian royal guard, and spartan hoplites, total 104 minis) and I'm gonna have to paint a *lot* of bronze for all the armour, so my question to you /wip/ is this:
to verdigris or not to verdigris?
I'm asking /hwg/ on the historicity of it, but from a purely aesthetic perspective, is it particularly difficult to get a verdigris effect that doesn't look over the top? I know GW makes a technical for this but I haven't yet looked into how it turns out...

>>44453254

never mind, I'll ask again next thread