/fgt/ - Super cheap film from Ebay edition

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>>3138620

Speaking of bulk film.

This is pretty much Superia X-tra right? Or is it a different film?

http://amzn.asia/8fPq4YV

>>3138622
I believe it is different. Some say it can only be bought from Japan unless you get it online and shipped.

>>3138624

Is it any good? I am in Japan, and I wouldn't mind buying a bunch of everyday use 400 film.

>>3138627
Try them I haven't tried them yet though.

Report back the results.

>>3138620
>7 reviews for a Chinaman on fleabay selling stuff for 1/10 the prices it is normally

The Chinese are like a low rent Jew

>>3138629

Fuck it, I will buy a 10 pack.

Reviews say they are decent, but don't match Pro 400. No surprise there, neither does X-tra.

>>3138636
Get ready to be scammed hard. I once bought Tri-X for cheap and until now I'm waiting for it to arrive.

>>3138637

Next day delivery with prime.

Will post when I get it.

Not sure I will go shooting this weekend though, it is hot as fuck outside.

>>3138638
Sure update us man.

>>3138620
Why are there all these new ebay accounts (<10 feedback) selling cheap film. Anyone know what you actually get if you buy it?

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>>3138658
nothing

Ordered this around a year ago

>>3138620
>continental photo

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>>3138620
>shipping costs x2 from lot price
>being me

>>3138658
I ordered 20 rolls of fresh expired LuckyColor200 for €2 from Corea maybe 3 years ago.

Didn't think they'd come. But they did.

What would be the best cheap 100 and 400 B&W films? Is Lucky SHD 100 any good?

>>3138661
hope you got your money back

>scan negatives
>tinker with colors a bit
>everything looks great
>export, send to wife
>looks like clown vomit

I think I need to calibrate my monitors.

Anyone have a recomendation on how to do it?

I have been eyeing the ColorMunki Smile.
>https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00C2GSFO8/

>>3139183
It might be the colorspace between the two devices. Some devices use one (AdobeRBG or srbg) and not the other, so when they attempt to open a file with a colorspace they don't support it'll convert it to the colorspace it supports which messes with the colors

>>3139185

That may be it, but colors differ between the two monitors themselves. Pretty sure they are quite far off.

>2017
>still shooting film
the autism is real

>>3139209
>2017
>still shitting on other peoples hobbies on the internet
The autism is real

>>3139211
>2017
>still replying to troll posts
the autism is real

>>3139213
>2017
>still replying to troll post replies
the autism is real

>>3139214
>2017
>still justifying your autism
The autism is real

>2017
>not having autism
Get with the times

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Shiiiiit. I ordered 100 and not 400 by mistake.

Oh well, will go try some out tomorrow I guess.

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Anyone tried this?

>Vision 500T > Cinestill 800T
>wanting red halos

>>3139226
Amazing. I forgot the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/65mm-Kodak-vision3-5219-500T-Motion-picture-film-trans-for-120-film-X5rolls/152659462435?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

>>3139224

Is there any number printed on the boxes or rolls I can look up to see if this is the same as superia?

>>3139242
it's certainly not the same as superia, i've shot it a lot

Numbers on the canister are

400 - 6238443
100 - 6252320

>>3139252

Oh you have? Like it? It was cheap so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Asked earlier in the thread but no one knew.

>>3139200
Both IPS panels?

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>>3139257

Yep, LG 29UB55 and Phillips 234E5QHA

>>3139226
Does that have the anti-halation layer removed like Cinestill does? Wouldn't it screw up C-41 chemistry labs otherwise?

>>3139275
Ah right. The ebay link in >>3139231 mentions you'd need to wash off the remjet layer yourself and process at home.

>>3139224
You also ordered 24's. You got meme'd hard, retard.

>>3139338

I prefer 24. And they came out to be less than two dollars a roll.

>>3138788
Bumb

Absolute film newfag here. Is it possible to shot two films at the same time?

When I got my Nikon F80 I put a ColorPlus 200 in it and took some snapshits. Now I want to try out the Superia X-tra 400 but it would be a shame to waste that roll on snapshits.

Do you have to stick to a roll once you load it? Can you somehow rewind the good one, load the cheap one and then advance it without fucking up the previous exposures?

>>3139378
You can but it's an absolute pain in the ass and its honestly worth finishing the roll then going on to a different film

>>3139226
>>3139231
>>3139275
>>3139277

Just ordered the 250d version of this
Can't wait to try it

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I have this unopened color 600 film, expired April 1986. Is it even worth trying it out or should I just leave it in the box and sell it cib

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>>3139378
Get another film camera.

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>>3138620
probably should have just posted in this thread but I made my own like a retard.

Basically I'm going on a 5,000 mile road trip to a racing event called HotRod Drag Week, and I'm looking for advice as to what film shit I should bring. Got a whole list of shit in the thread.

But I also have a whole bunch of Kodak Ultramax 400, Fuji Superia X-TRA 400, and Fujicolor 200 plus some Holga (Foma) 400 B&W, and trying to figure out what I should run/bring.

>>3139486
>>3139486
>>3139486
>>3139486

>>3139378
listen to these guys: >>3139384 & >>3139497

You can do it but it's a bitch, so just buy another camera, load each with a roll and then use the appropriate film for the appropriate shop. if you don't want to carry around 2 i guess you could just deal with only getting some of the shots or getting the shots at less-than-satisfactory exposure

Just bought some impossible project BW 400 film for the first time since i recently came into possession of a SX-70

how shitty is this film and did i get ripped off

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just adjusted the rangefinder on my 'new' moskva 5, feels good. having it working, that is, not the camera itself, which feels bad in almost every way.

>>3139467
I would just sell it

>>3138788
>>3139355
I like kentmere in 35mm, they're fairly cheap in the US. arista edu ultra seems a little cheaper, am going to test out a roll this week.

>>3139505
5000 miles is as many as 8000 kilometers. That's a lot of shooting, unless you'll mostly be on the road.

I'd worry more about quantity of film than what particular film it is; and for quantity, C200 (same as Fujicolor 200), Superia 400, and Ultramax 400 all fill the ticket. I'd not bother with Foma films for a once-in-a-lifetime thing; get yourself two bricks of tri-x (and maybe a yellow filter) instead, that'll generally give like 90% of the B&W experience right there.

Bring spare batteries. Bring a spare body; travel means dust means malfunctions especially on a 100% mechanical number like the OM-1. Bring a waterproof case for exposed film, and another for fresh film.

Seriously, your handful of film won't cut it. Get more, shoot it liberally. Documentary / event photography eats up frames in proportion to your imagination since everything happens around you all the time.

Try to score an automatic thyristor flash unit for your OM-1; they're really common, system independent auto flash basically (if not TTL). The way these things work is, there's a meter on the flash unit itself, so all you do is set it on auto, set sync speed on body, set aperture on lens, and Bob's your uncle -- the flash gives an appropriate amount of flash depending on what comes back. This is much more convenient than dicking around with a manual flash.

And godspeed, takes balls to use film on a medium-term endeavour.

>>3139344
>paying 25% more for film
>paying 33% more for developing
>b-b-but I prefer this guys...
I get it, everyone's a top until they're not.
Doesn't mean you need to internalise the experience of being fucked in the ass by an ebay seller and shape your whole identity around it.

>>3139645
This will be over a span of 10 days, with 4 of them being 12+ hours driving non-stop. So I'm really only going to have 6 days of photos to take; but I still see the issue. I'm going to try to grab another 8-12 rolls before I go.

As for the flash, I simply don't have one and don't want to drop $80+ for one, although I really should.

Any suggestions as to what unit I should get? Links would be helpful.

>>3139657
An old school non-TTL auto flash won't run you over $20; might wanna bring two. Olympus T20, T32, and Quick Auto are ones that I know work beautifully with OM-series cameras. All of them eat Eneloops gracefully, but the T32 will spit a metal thingamabob out when you remove the batteries -- it's a tight fit. Still, any flash beats no flash, if your local camera shop only has a $15 vivitar manual flash at GN22 (feet), then that's what you'll use. Manual flash computations are easy though. Virtually any old-school camera manufacturer also had their series of flash, but very few did TTL flash metering, so most of 'em will either be manual or non-TTL auto.

>>3139596
How does the moskva feel bad? What don't you like about it?

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>have hard time loading 120 onto reel in darkbag
>find this at bottom of tank later

fuck, at least the negatives look okay

>>3139691
my copy is probably worse than average: focus is stiff at a few points, rangefinder is alternately loose and tight, the front door doesn't open/close smoothly, film advance is really heavy, shutter ring is stiff, front standard is a little loose, etc. also various usability complaints, like the tiny and separate viewfinder and rangefinder, but that's just 1950s design for you.

>>3139649

The rolls were 2 instead of 3 for the 36.

Dev costs are cheaper here for 24 too.

What has your panties in a bunch, bro?

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>handed in hassy for repair on july 3
>still haven't gotten it back
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

I just want to shoot some fucking rolls before autumn kicks in.

>>3139732
shoot half frame. its the only thing that will prevent you going MAD.

have bought not once but 3 times from these chinese jews. everytime i got my money refunded. never got any film :///

Anyone got an shots or opinions regarding XA2, Canon AF35 or Nikon AF35. Looking for something compact and under $70 wit a flash for shooting shit with my friends/boyfriend

>>3139259
nice tones

process?

>>3139757
Get one of those gilded Nikon zoom compacts with a very large focal length range. It'll be right up your alley.

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First semi-successful attempts at DSLR scanning. I really need to get a tripod.

1/2

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>>3139888

2/2

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>>3139757
Taken with an XA2, although I don't have the flash.

It's not perfect, but it's nice as everyday carry camera. I really like mine.

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>>3139760
XP2. Just lab scan.

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Not bad for el cheapo agfa I got from Poundland

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>>3139902
>cheapo agfa I got from Poundland
do they still sell it, or is it an old roll?

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>>3140026
I bought the rolls about 18 months ago, so I would doubt they sell them now, but it's definitely worth a look.

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I just found an old 110 camera. It probably wont take amazing shots but it might be fun and I want to try it. I saw lomography is selling some cheap shit film for it but if I buy it, where can I get it developed? I usually bring my film to the walmart equivalent but wuold the be set up to process it?

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>>3140189
I recently picked up this one for €1. Sadly, Lomography is the only seller of fresh 110 film so I have to swallow my pride and put money in their pocked if I'm ever to use it.

As for developing, I think I'll just do it myself, because I highly doubt that many labs still do 110 as it has been fully phased out for years (except for the Lomo reboot). The advantage of home developing is that you can possibly reuse the cassette to put in new film, slit from a larger format like 135 or 120

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>>3140205
Oh cool, i've got an AGFA Traveller. It looks the exact same.
Oh well, maybe 110 will be an easy entry into home development.

>>3140210
The problem is, the spools you use to wind the film is adjustable in width, but 35mm is often the smallest it can handle. So I'll have to think of some way to get it evenly developed in the developing tank

A quick google search did result in this: https://www.lomography.com/magazine/241548-how-to-make-a-fully-functional-110-film-developing-reel Maybe you can use this, I'll at least try it myself but maybe there are better ways. Btw, you can say whatever you want about those Lomo hipsters, but they do take obscure film formats seriously

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>>3138622
It's reboxed Fuji Superia Xtra. Theres a thread proving so on rangefinderforum or APUG, a quick google should turn it up. Buy whichever one is cheaper. This dude is an idiot and talking out of his ass >>3138624

Here's a shot using it.

>>3138788
I really like Lucky SHD100. If you can get it cheap go for it.

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>>3139757
XA2 is dope, but the scale focus makes it useless for shooting portraits / anything closer than 2-3 meters. For street / landscapes it's great, for portraits I'd pass.

>>3139902
>Poundland
What is the place I take your mom?

>>3140298
haha!!!!11! ur so funny dude!!1 wanna play minecraft with me? im 12 too xD

>>3140278
prattville?

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>>3140306
Tsu, Japan.

>3138788
Here's a Lucky SHD100 frame. Lack of antihalation layer is cool. Deved in Fuji Microfine.

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Ordered some film off ebay and the lady writes me a personal message and sends me some lollies

Awwwww

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>>3140330
>lollies in the mail
youre not gonna eat them are you

>>3140333
No... Of course not...
Anon if I don't reply in a couple hours can you send help

So I bought a bundle of old film from yahoo auction and I think 2 of the rolls are used since there is no film coming out of the canister. So my question is should I A develop them or B try get the film out and shoot them?

>>3139902
AGFA 200 from Poundland is re-badged Fuji C200. Of course it's not bad. In fact, it's pretty good.

>>3140026
every Poundland I've been to in the last 6 Months are still selling it. I'm in Sussex but have been to ones in Surrey/London also

Any trips or tricks for color correcting film after using this method? For the most part it works for outdoor shots without much to do contrast/highlights/shadows wise but going indoors the incandescent lighting is a greenish color that is harder to correct from what this video shows. Also the white balance is hard to correct to a true white which in turn leads to a flat photo.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zy7c2ikUhcM

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Anyone got some Vuescan tips? Do you have some (black and white) settings that work perfectly for you? It's probably different for every scanner.

Sorry for the snapshit, a lot of my shots were blurry. Shot with Mju I. :(

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>>3138620

Shot some lomochrome purple.

Shit is trippy as fuck.

Straight scan, no editing.

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>>3140386
Fuark, does this look fine? It's a Canoscan 9950f. Or should the grain be sharper? Table is the sharpest area of the whole pic. This is just a small area of the photo.

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>>3140430
Your scanner's focus is off, or you have ICE on, or your film wasn't flat.

Grain should be sharp and defined. Your's is blotchy and blurry...which means the film itself isn't in focus during scanning.

>>3140440
Hmm, I'll try fucking around with the holders. Maybe add a business card under it and try without. I have a piece of glass, but it's not anti-newton.

>>3140444
I also got a Minolta Dual Scan III. It worked but the seller wanted to test it again and it suddenly stopped turning on. I hope it's the cable, but I think it's fried. Got it for free.

But now I found a Dual Scan IV, hope it works. Seems to stutter, but it happens a lot apparently and it some times stops stuttering. Fingers crossed, as those are dedicated scanners. The 9950f is good for MF/LF.

So I recently got a Kiev 6C, anyone on /fgt/ invested in the P6 mount and care to recommend what lenses to be on the lookout for? I'm looking for a decent wide mostly, but maybe a normal too if the Jena Zeiss stuff is much better than the Vega 90mm I got with the camera.

I've been looking into MF lately, and have decided to get a 645 SLR.

The cameras I've been looking at the most are the Mamiya 645 Super and the Bronica ETRS. Anyone here have one of these? Are there any other cameras I should look at?

>>3140538
I have the ETRSi and I'm in love with it. Gonna be buying the other two lenses in the selection plus a second back to hot-swap between color and b&w film.

That said I think it might be worth looking into the SQ-Ai as a very similar (in functions) 6x6 MF camera. Moreover the Mamiya RB/RZ 67 could be worth a look due to their rotating backs. This raises their price but gives you the option of shooting in portrait orientation without having to juggle the camera sideways. I thing the downsides of those two Mamiya cameras for me were that they ue bellows for focusing and that they are quite large and heavy.

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>>3140510
pentacon six connosieur here.

out of the zeiss jena lenses, the 180mm is pretty decent and gives that oleg oprisco dreamy bokeh. the 80mm is kinda meh, bokeh is so-so, bland lens, youll get more character out of your Vega. 120mm jena is good too. if you want wides, get the MIR MIR 45mm 3,5, that lens is amazing, distortion is minimal for what it is. or maybe you could get the flektogon, which is coated, and has better sharpness, but i personally prefer the 45mm.

pic related is the 120mm iirc.

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>>3140547
Thanks! The Mir looks pretty decent and quite cheap, think I'll pick one up in the near future. I shoot black and white about 80% of the time so lack of coating shouldn't be a big issue.

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>>3140546
I'm quite skeptical to the 6x6 format as it feels like primarily a portrait format, and 6x7 is way too square without being square, if you get what I mean.

>>3140567
I get you, though the primary argument is the size of the negative that you produce with every shot. Meaning that 645 is the most conservative one with 15 shots per roll. You could always crop larger negatives but so far 645 feels just right to me.

I was also trying to choose between the Mamiya 645 Super and the Bronica ETRSi. I think the reason I ultimately went for the Bronica was because I read a lot of reviews about Mamiya backs failing and also the fact that the ETRSi is a bit more recent. Either way my advice would be to be patient for that one great deal. I think I bought my Bronica for £250 with one back, the 50mm equiv. lens, waist level finder and like 6 rolls of film.

>>3140567
>6x7 is way too square without being square
thats what it makes it a GODLY format.

>>3140585
Indeed, it's GOAT but it's a shame that most cameras that use it are fairly pricy.

>>3140587
the pentax 67 is a god tier system that hilariously affordable. dont be super poor and youll get one in two months of savings.

>>3140589
>you're poor
Nope, I just can't justify dropping another 600 eurobucks minimum after I just bought an ETRSi for a third of that price a couple of months ago. Priorities my friend.

>>3140566
pretty

>>3140574
Thanks, I think I'll keep looking at both and seeing what the best deal I can find is. I'll read some reviews too.

By the way, are there any good lens adapter brands? I did a quick check and there seems to be converters from both Mamiya and Bronica to Nikon F, but I have no idea what brands to stay away from, if there are any.

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I got my parents old olympus xa2 and its working nicely expect for the aperture lever that is stuck in the "middle" position so it only focuses on to like 2 meters. Would really like to get it working so you guys have any idea what could be done?

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Posting a few snaps I liked. Olympus 35RC with Ektar 100. C&C if you want.

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>>3140698

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>>3140700

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>>3140348
bumperoni

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>>3140701

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>>3140348
They probably are used. You could try to double-expose them, if you want to get experimental, but it probably wouldn't be worth the effort of getting the film out without exposing it. Get it developed, and worst/best case scenario you'll get some stranger's nudes.

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didn't realize I had exported these so big. sorry but yall can deal with it.

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>>3140706
Actually yeah I wouldn't mind developing them since they're from Japan and they're so old. Might find some interesting images on them, worst scenario is they come out blank.

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>>3140728
The place I get film developed won't charge you if the film is blank or defective.

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resized and worse, sorry bout it

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another

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and another

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Alright /fgt/s, I can buy an entire Mamiya RZ67 set for €950. It includes 2 bodies, Sekor 50mm, 90mm and 250mm, 1 prism viewfinder, 3x top viewfinder, 7 film cassettes and some miscellaneous stuff like a large camera system bag, sun hoods and lens caps.

I was thinking to sell one body with one lens, a top viewfinder and 2 or 3 cassettes, which should catch some 500-600 dollars on eBay. I also have 2 Bronica ETRS bodies with some accessories, so I should be able to sell off one complete Bronica and retain one complete Bronica for myself, hopefully earning another ca 500 dollars, making the entire affair cost neutral.

Do you think this is feasible? Am I making a grave mistake or did I luck out? Hoping for some good advice

If I get a high quality scan of a frame is it ok to have a print made from the digital file or is it always better to have a print made from the negative?

>>3140753
>500-600 dollars on eBay.
more like 250-300 tops.

>>3140757
I'm seeing loose bodies go for around 350. I'm not that experienced with eBay, is there something I'm missing? Sorry for asking to spoonfeed but €950 is quite a lot of money for me

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>>3140753
950 euro does seem like a lot for that, however buying full outfits is definitely the way to go. I paid $850 australian for my rb kit, but it has a lot more lenses, and better ones.
I'd say if you can inspect the kit first, and it's literally pristine, AND you really want to shoot with an RZ a lot, then whatever, it's just money.
However, don't sell the prism finder, especially if it's a light-meter model. TTL metering is absolutely invaluable with a bellows-focusing, half-stop max aperture abortion like the RB/RZ series. Also being able to see the viewfinder in sunlight, or if you want to shoot at eye-level is pretty useful.
If selling off the other body, I'd recommend picking up a 127mm and 140mm, shooting with both, and selling the body with whichever one you like less.
Regarding backs; motorised backs a best, keep them. 220 backs are good, but you will only ever need one in 2017, as the odds of you having 220 stock of more than one type at a time are pretty slim. 645, 6x6 and 6x8 backs are collectible, keep them. If you can fling a basic 120 and 220 back and still have plenty for yourself, you're golden.
Also, shoot with the 250 and determine if you really need it, and maybe add that to the sell-off kit. It's a bit of a boat anchor, and the choice between taking it or another 2L of water on your next hike becomes a lot easier if you've just sold the fucking thing.

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>>3140796
Thanks, that's advice I can work with. As to the price, it was the result of some bidding, I definitely went higher than I wanted at first (not on eBay, on my local Craigslist equivalent, so no obligation to buy, the other bidder will be happy to take it if I choose not to), but looking around on eBay certainly looks a lot more expensive, as there are mostly offers of a single body+lens, with lenses going for €300+ a piece (depending on which lens ofc), hence me thinking to have spotted a bargain. Also, I could sell off all my Bronica shit as the Mamiya includes a 645 back, making keeping any ETRS a bit silly (but I like it since it's the camera from the original intro of The Bold, which I watched a lot as a kid, but I digress). I think I'm just going to do it. I did fail to mention that one of the Bronica bodies I have is a complete boxed-with-all-caps and original everything, so that might add to the value. The rest of the accessories I can maybe sell off on eBay by themselves, as this seems to be the most worthwhile method. Not trying to haggle peole out of a lot of money here, just trying not to make my hobby too expensive iykwim

>>3140811

MF stuff like Bronica and 500cm have been rising in price lately.

Really wanna grab one before it gors up too much, but I can't justify spending $1k on something I'd use a handful of times a year.

>>3140811
>t. never seen a memeya in the real
Dude, the mamiya is not an etrs replacement. With a lense and prism attached it might weigh double? maybe just a bit less. And it's substantially larger. As shown in my photo above it's more than a foot long.
Taking an RB out to shoot 645 would be like taking a .50 cal out to shoot rabbits. Your arms get real tired and what could have been dinner with a .22 is now a cloud of blood and fur.

Just got my first film camera
after I develop my films, what is the optimal method of getting them into digital format? Recommend home scanners?

>>3140819
It is a lot larger, so actually I really do want to keep the ETRS. With the speedgrip and AE prism it handles like a rather bulky 35mm, except of course with larger negatives, so I use it without a tripod quite often. I'm still a bit on the fence as you might have noticed, but of course I don't want to hog the thread with rambling and doubting. I think I can manage to hold on to both one RZ67 and one ETRS without breaking the bank, and just sell off what I don't need piecemeal to cover the costs. Would you reckon I could ask €450 for a complete RZ67 and €350 for a complete ETRS?

>>3140820
if you get them developed at an actual photo lab, just ask for development & scanning

>>3140538
Honestly don't get a 645 slr.

You'll just develop a taste for larger negatives and end up buying a blad or a 6x7 camera anyway.

Take it from me, I bought an etrs and now a mamiya 7.

>>3140845
memiya 7 is the endgame of all endgames, isnt it?

>>3140845
>You'll just develop a taste for larger negatives and end up buying a blad or a 6x7 camera anyway.

I don't understand these comments. Ive gone down to 645 from bigger formats and fucking love it. All those frames per roll, the nice aspect ratio, and still a neg that can easily print 20x24.

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>>3140890
>the nice aspect ratio
This. 3:2 a shit.

>>3140890
you found your shit. most dont. most just keep guessing if its greener in the other side, feeling that they arent experiencing that medium format feel(tm) yet. and they are right.

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>>3140845
Are you me? Literally contemplating the same. 645 is 'just' twice as large as 35mm. 6x7 is where it's at. I'll have to upgrade my darkroom again but whatever, can't wait to shoot some glorious 6x7.

>>3140849
Well, you could always go large format if you really hate money. Even then there's 4x5 inch and 8x10 inch with a world of difference. And then there's ultra large format but there's like 100 people in the world who do that, it's insanely expensive. Mind you, the whole infrastructure has to be upgraded when you go a size up, with exponentially growing rarity end expense.

But indeed, when talking MF, the RZ67 is one of the best, that much is true. Hasselblad and the Pentax 67 are also often mentioned. The nice thing about the Pentax is that it's basically a 35mm camera in shape, except you can club an elephant to death with it in a pinch

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>>3140845
>>3140895
you will never experience true kinography if you dont go 6x7. you just wont.

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>>3140901
im just waiting for some faggot to cross my way when im happening to carry my 6x7. ill fucking end him right there.

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>>3140905
i really pity the faggot that will find his destiny under my gojira pentax.

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>>3140908
CANT STOP THIS ERECTION.

THIS IS REALA BTW.

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>>3140895
>645 is 'just' twice as large as 35mm
It's 2.7x as large

All this talk of bigger negs...do you fgts even print? Everytime I make a printing thread it 404s in no time. Where you homos at then?

>>3140917
Behind my Durst, probably. Bigger negatives are essential to printing if you use larger formats of paper, especially if you're cropping. Cropping 35mm looks like a cart of gravel even at somewhat smaller prints.

>>3140917
Btw, do you also do RA4? I tried and somewhat succeeded, but it's very hard to get the temperature right. Working in complete darkness is also not as fun as I thought

>>3140918
>>3140919
I hear you on cropping 35mm. I'm one of those fgts thst tries to keep cropping to a minimum though. Rarely am I ever cropping out massive chunks (I never make 8x10s by cropping 35mm for example).

Never done RA4. I have a great lab that does RA4 prints for a price that's hard to beat. Would love to give it a try though.

>>3140917

I was gonna get a 500cm for delicious 6x6.

But then I realized I never print larger than 4x6 (and maybe an a4 once a year) so it would just be a waste of money.

Shit, I am more likely to digitize my stuff and print that than get actual prints made.

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>>3140926
Here printing is either 13x18cm max at the standard lab, or it's prohibitively expensive at a professional lab. Now I'm doing 30x40cm and it's absolutely stunning (well I might be a bit biased but wth). Pic related is my first attempt, printed from a 645 negative with a 75mm Phago lens on 30x40cm Kodak Endura matte.

I enjoy B/W a lot more though. So much more options in the darkroom. RA4 is pretty right or wrong, whereas B/W can yield many different prints from the same negative.

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>>3140928
I mean...there is the argument that you'll always have the quality in the negs should you choose to print big. It's a good argument.

The amount of people that talk 'muh bigger neg' and never do anything more than uploading a 1xxx X 1xxxx pixel image to Flickr are a bit silly. No better than the 'muh FF' digicucks

>>3140929
Oh man, I can get 30x45cm RA4 prints done for $15/ea.

>>3140932
15 dollars?! I make them for 10x cheaper. 50 sheets of 30x40 is €80, plus some chemicals and one or two test strips of course. The rest is all 'buy once, use forever'. I guess if you don't make a lot of large colour prints, it's cheaper, but you can't beat diy in the long run. Plus it's fun once you get the hang of it.

>>3140934
Oh yeah, I know doing it myself would be cheaper. But like you said, RA4 is pretty much a right or wrong thing. Not much personal touch like bw can have. How long does it take you to dial in an RA4 print? I figure that $15 is saving me multiple hours of my time. Time is money after all, right?

Spending hours in a darkroom dodging/burning some bw prints is my jam though.

>>3140937
It's actually a lot quicker than B/W. 45s dev, 45s blix, done. So, you do a test strip to determine colour cast and exposure, set the colour balance, do another test strip to be sure (changing colour levels also has influence on the exposure time). I have only ever needed 2 test strips to get it right, but I haven't done it a lot so I might have been a bit lucky. But, if you do it like this, you can have a full print in a quarter of an hour. I can spend hours on a single b/w print, and that is excluding rinsing, hypoclearing, rinsing, toning and rinsing again. Fuck I hate rinsing

>>3139731
Weird perspective but I like it.
>>3140417
Cool, I always thought it was a meme but thats nice.
>>3140901
My eyes have never experienced that much kino.

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Bumping with some tri-x, decided to try some and i didnt like it that much, way too contrasty fro my preference.

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>>3140957
Doesn't help that you underexposed the shot. Gotta use dat exp comp for scenes like that.

>>3140960
Is that why the frame is so grainy? My camera doesnt have a meter so i was guessing the exposure.

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>>3140960
>>3140966
It makes sense because frames like this one are pretty nice and flat with less grain.

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Tri-X @ 1600 self developed. Shot on an F801 at the Deniliquin Ute Muster in far SW NSW, Aus.

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>>3141016
Nice, good to see a few other aussies here and there on /p/

>>3141022
/fgt/ is basically only aussies when it's like 6pm onwards in Australia

>>3140942
>Fuck I hate rinsing
Why are archival washers so expensive?

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>>3141037
>a fish tank pump
m8 get a big fucking plastic tub and put a wire rack and one of these puppies in it.

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>>3140895
There's also the Fuji GX680III. The III uses 3x CR123 batteries. Don't bother with the older versions unless they are modified or includes the box that takes AA batteries.

The 680 doesn't get too much love because of it's size and weight, but
>6x8
>Movements (The "III S" does not have movements)
>Rotating back
>Bellows

>>3140966
Yeah, that frame looks multiple stops underexposed.

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>>3141045

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>>3141049
"who are you?"

"I am you but stronger"

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Post your film collections

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>>3141027
>>3141022
>>3141016

qld reporting in

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Anyone know why my polaroid camera film ejection flap is snapping so hard on the photo? its creating a permanent damage spot on the top center

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>>3141093
Brisbane Northside here, wbu?

>>3141099
GC

im planning to load my dads old nikon fg with some film and have some fun. i wont develope myself (at first). is there some sort of canonical list of films to try out, a database to compare appearance or something similar?

theres a zenit half frame slr right now on ebay, about to go in 2 hours. was planning to buy it, but the fact that its just some other proper slr model but with a narrower window makes me think the mirror slap will fuck all 1/30 shots and below. also no lenses, so will have to use some 50 1.4, which will be just a super luminous 100mm tele. wew.

>>3141198
It's gonna be around 75mm. You can use a 35mm or so to get a 50mm equivalent. But really owning a (normal) Zenit I'd rather get something else unless it's very cheap.

>>3140845
>>3140895
Again with the film size meme. I'm shooting a Pen FV a lot of the time and also Pentax 6x7 and some 6x6 stuff. The difference in the size of the neg is ridiculous but I don't mind. A lot of the time you don't actually need all the resolution. 645 is cool for a lot of stuff and I personally can't wait to pick up a GA645. I've shot a bunch of 645 on an old folder and it's really comfy to frame and print, might be that 4:3 ratio.

>>3141228
Darkroom printing is like 1/2 of the photography hobby for me. I like to make larger prints and that is barely possible with half frame negatives. 35mm is ok tier but also not spectacular. I'm not shitting on people who like other things but I need MF to get the results that I like

>>3141228
>might be that 4:3 ratio.
--------> >>3141045

>>3140905
>>3140901
honestly i can fap to the sharpness/shallow dof combo right away allthough im not a bokeh whore at all. does the amazingness fade away like with 35mm or does it stay that exciting?

>>3141250
It fades, but pops up every now and then when you capture something good. You'll be grateful tat you captured it on something larger than 35mm.

>>3141112
>>3141099
lol I'm south side just woke up

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>>3141271
Inner west waking and baking here.

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>>3141308
Clean your negatives senpai

>>3141250
it stays exciting when you see some kino you did or when you just pick up the camera and notice the MINDBLOWINGLY AWESOME PIECE OF JAP MACHINERY YOURE HOLDING IN YOUR HANDS.

>>3141228
>film size is a meme

Says the guy who shoots on a fucking Pentax 6x7

>>3141361
Yeah and also still continuing to shoot smaller formats without feeling gimped.

Of course the Pentax is nice. Printing Hp5 exposed at 1600 and having it look almost grainless has uses.

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>>3141308
>>3141271
I get the feeling I probably know / know of you guys irl

There can't be that many of us

Bumping with some 6x6 ektar

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>>3141574
Yeah so it's not a fucking meme

Big negatives are nice. They just are. You don't have a contrarian take here.

>>3141361
>>3141574
>>3141623
im with my guy here. dont be a faggot, film size isnt a "meme", and photos done on 6x7 or 24x18 arent interchangeable "if you dont mind resolution heh". theres a reason the dusseldorff guys did their stuff in ultralarge format, and a reason the provoke guys used crummy printing and half frames. your message will be enhanced by the medium you choose to carry it, and size plays a role there, fag.

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I'm in love with Kodak ultra

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First time C41'ing, wish me luck..

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>>3141751
;_;7

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>>3141775
>>3141751
I fucked up big time. Because of the stress I had keeping everything at the right temperature, I accidentally poured in the developer whilst the water (for warming the tank) was still in, severely diluting the developer, like the retard I am. Somehow, the negatives came out looking alright, at least, by just looking at them. I'm right snoggered now, because apparently C41 developer isn't really sold separately. My first thought was to leave the overdiluted developer to somewhat vapourise the water by pouring it in a large developing tray and leaving it for a while. Thoughts?

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>>3140901
that is fucking amazing

What film and camera was used? Pentax 67?

>>3141670
thats a nic shot, the person or whatever on the far right side is a little distracting but that's probably just me being a picky internet dweeeb

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R8 my latest print /fgt/s
It's my aunt's doggo. Shot on Tri-x, developed in D76, printed using Ilford Warmtone and selenoum toned

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>>3140366
Bump

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>>3138788
Kentmere B&W - buy in bulk rolls. It's basically "almost Ilford HP5 but not quite"

There's plenty of detail - even in those shadow zones.

>>3141783
Surprise surprise, there's a lot of oomph in C-41 developer. I mean, it's reusable to something like 10 rolls per litre, or 20 if you believe the Interwebs. Makes sense it'd also work while diluted to a sportsmanlike degree.

Anyway, inspect the solid black leader part of the negative once it dries. You should be able to see like a covered 20W fluoro tube through it easy, and everything else basically not at all; if it's thinner than that, it'll be underdeveloped. Colours might also be messed up, but w/e. FWIW, at least Maco sells rollei colour dev separately, but since it's the most consumable part of the kit anyway, you might as well buy another litre's worth. (or not, because colour dev is a fucking hassle.)

>>3141819
pentax 67
105 2.4
velvia 50

>>3141925
whats the location? I have a hard time imagining a place that would be this orange in velvia. Sunset at a desert in the rockies?

>>3141839
It's a dog alright

>>3141866
I can look through it, but not really that much, so my guess is that it's only slightly underdeveloped. Colours look fine from the scans, maybe a little bit washed out but not too much. I'll keep looking for loose developer, I do want to do it again but I want to know for sure it will turn out well before I put any premium MF film in it (this was just a Superia roll of which I knew the photos on it weren't breathtaking so I took the chance). I do want to keep doing C41 because I'm a major autist and my lab keeps cutting my negatives into strips of 4 instead of 6, ruining my archive system

>>3141930
Well, yes, that was sort of the purpose.

>>3141928
scene went through all the gamut. it was strong orange, then heavy purple, then super blue, and before all that it was heavy pink. that happened right after it was heavy overcast so there was like a color explosion, it was brief though. location is salar de atacama, chile.

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>>3141783
Leaving your developer out is the worst possible choice; it will oxidise and become useless.
Just keep it in a light and airproof container and continue to use the dilute solution, with slightly longer times.
It's designed to work in water, obviously. Also, C41 dev is pretty malleable, to be honest. It's pretty hard to overdevelop to an unusable negative, in fact it's more likely that it will improve your negs if you've been shooting consumer films at box speed. Don't sperg out too much about temps either; it really only becomes mission critical for slides.

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Never tried Lomo Color film. For those that have tried it, is it worth buying it?

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I fucked up and some shots got some light leaks, overall they dont look so bad i think. Rate me /fgt/ bros.

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>>3142095

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>>3142088
better get adox color implosion.