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Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread Because

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Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread

Because knowing is half the battle

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So there are these cameras (no particular order):

- Canon 80D
- Fuji X-T20
- Pentax K3 II
- Nikon D610 or used D750 (below 50k actuations)
- Sony a6300


And I'd like to buy one from the list, with 35mm FoV lens. I'd like to earn with it small ammounts of cash (low-level events, stock, prints), do some travels. Size and video capabilities are much less important than image quality. Which would you take?
>>
I have a Canon 7D with a 28-80. Is this fine for street photography?

Also is it called street photography if you don't really want people in your shots?
>>
>>3129032
>35mm equivalent
well that rules out the 80D and the K3 if you want a prime.

>>3129052
More architecture at that point. Ditch the 28-80 for something more suitable for the APS-C sensor, maybe the 10-18 if wide angle is your thing.
>>
>>3129060
Why? Canon has the 24 2.8 which comes to about 37mm equiv.
Pentax has one too
>>
>>3128917
there are already two threads like this in the catalog, dipshit
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I want a Wide instant camera. Does anyone know if the Lomo Wide lenses are worth an extra $40-$60 when its all cheap plastic?
>>
>>3129378
Shooting with the Ultra Wide lens is useful in some situations. It just slightly elongates and zooms out your shots. The Close Up Lens is actually kinda cool but very strict with 5inch focus. I liked the shots I got with it especially on a larger film format. The Splitzer takes too much film to figure out. I've gotten some shots out of it but it's not worth it. I liked the two other lens and no longer have them, but I don't really long for them or need them that much. Might buy them in the future but w/e
>>
What is a pancake lens?
What is a prime lens?
If I have a 28-80, why would I need to buy a 35mm or 50mm separately?
Why is Publix bakery so damn good?
How to I get past being nervous about shooting in public?
Should I get a camera strap?
Is it ok to edit in Snapseed?
>>
>>3129378
>Lomo
>worth

nope
>>
>>3129052
>is it called street photography if you don't really want people in your shots?

No.
And people's backs is also not street photography.

That's just taking pictures of streets.
>>
>>3130194
>What is a pancake lens?
Generally a prime lens which appears to be very thin; or does not stick out from the camera very far

>What is a prime lens?
A lens with a fixed focal length; not a zoom lens

>If I have a 28-80, why would I need to buy a 35mm or 50mm separately?
Need? That's up to you. Generally, primes are sharper and can have a wider max aperture than most zoom lenses. They can also be less expensive at comparable levels of quality.

>Why is Publix bakery so damn good?
You need to try better food.

>How to I get past being nervous about shooting in public?
Shoot more. Be the change you want to be. Eventually it will come naturally.

>Should I get a camera strap?
Totally up to you. Try different things and see what suits you best.

>Is it ok to edit in Snapseed?
If it gets the results you want, sure. But never think you've found the best or ultimate; the market will continue to develop and evolve.
>>
Is it worth getting into headshots and portrait photography as a severe introvert?

Is having to be 'on' for these sessions exhausting to the point of burning out from it?
>>
>>3129032
Try them out. See which one has controls you like best.

I own a Canon 80D and like it. For close to the 35mm FoV, I'd suggest the 24mm pancake lens. It's decent and affordable.

But I will not insist that is the camera to use. See what you like best.
>>
>>3130194
Those Publix subs are no joke bruh.
>>
>>3130221
Thanks Anon.
>>
>>3130223
Depends, are you a total shut-in aspie?

If not, then practice on your friends, an "just be yourself" kek
>>
>>3130232
He said bakery, not deli.

Their cakes and bread are pretty good, but so are so many other places' baked gods these days. If I want something that's "So good!" I can definitely find better.
>>
>>3130235
I can describe it this way:
I've been working retail for over a decade. I can put on the retail happy face, and spend the day sending customers home happy. At the end of the day, I'd much rather be at home either alone or with one or two people I care about than with a large group.

Days off, I generally prefer finding some quiet woods to photograph, and typically end up running errands and going home.

I have carried a camera to events, and have even very much enjoyed some crowded events. I just have to keep focused on my group, and usually just one or two people in that group.

I'm not one for small talk at all, and am not very good at directing people (I know: The more you do it, the better you become). People I don't know are an issue for me, but I can be friendly enough. Working in retail, it at least gives a focus to the conversation.
>>
Do you guys use EyeEm? What are your experiences?
Mine are that the upload-function is shit as fuck compared to flickr, but I get a few likes within minutes of uploading, while on flickr, I get maybe one like on 15 pictures
>>
>>3130237
> I'd much rather be at home either alone or with one or two people I care about than with a large group.


Congratulations you're literally normal.

Anyway, yes it does take a certain person to fully master portrait photography and get the subject to do what you want.

I've never taken it to any commercial capacity but I can imagine how tedious it must be to direct someone.
>>
When taking a video, I don't really understand the difference between the frame rate and the shutter speed.

Frame rate is how many "pictures" it takes a second. So, 60fps = 60 frames captured every second.

How does shutter speed come into this, and why does it make things look choppy?

Also, why can I go below 1/60s shutter speed when shooting at 60fps, shouldn't that be impossible?

Also, if I'm shooting video in bright sunlight, having a shutter speed of 1/30 is just ridiculous, everything is fuckbright even with 100 ISO and f/16. So I'm assuming my only option is ND filters?

Anything else?
>>
>>3130240
If you can't tell, I tend to overthink everything. Usually, in the moment, I realize it's not so bad.

I should take the advice I've given some other people, and just jump the fuck in and do it.

See what happens and how I like it.
>>
>>3130241
>When taking a video, I don't really understand the difference between the frame rate and the shutter speed.
Frame rate is how many frames per second the video is being recorded. Shutter speed is the length of time per second that the exposure is being made.

>Frame rate is how many "pictures" it takes a second. So, 60fps = 60 frames captured every second.
Correct.

>How does shutter speed come into this, and why does it make things look choppy?
OK, so looking at the anatomy of older film video cameras, there would be a rotating series of shutters timed to expose each progressing frame in perfect synchronization. By doing this, the shutter was closed for literally half the time during filming. Whether this has caused us to be trained to see this effect, or it just coincidentally is what seems best to our eyes for whatever reason, the general advice is to have a shutter speed at double your frame rate. 24fps, 1/50s exposure. Set ISO and aperture accordingly. It is long enough to provide a little motion blur in faster action, slow enough to provide a natural appearance.

>Also, why can I go below 1/60s shutter speed when shooting at 60fps, shouldn't that be impossible?
With modern digital cameras, the sensor is constantly exposed. During normal video recording, that may depend on the camera itself. During time lapse, it is generally better to have a longer than typical exposure, to add motion blue in stead of having jittery snippets of completely still frames.

>Also, if I'm shooting video in bright sunlight, having a shutter speed of 1/30 is just ridiculous, everything is fuckbright even with 100 ISO and f/16. So I'm assuming my only option is ND filters?
Uh ... fucking duh?

>Anything else?
Yeah. Study on your own. All of this information is out there on the internet, sitting on a plate with people ready to spoon feed it to you.
>>
>>3130251
Great, thanks!
>>
>>3130223

If you're just taking snapshots to get better, than yes, you should at least try.

If you're getting into it as a business option, then a better first question would be: Do you have the equipment and/or funds to get started in headshot/portrait work?

To do that kind of work right (i.e. get paid for it), you need at least three lights. White seamless can sometimes be six lights or more depending on how you're shooting - then stands, then modifiers, then triggers...
>>
In a still life/ product photography setting are there any reasons to use flash setups over steady lighting?

What arguments would lean one way over another?
>>
What's the best way to deal with shots that have portions in direct sunlight and portions in shadow? Even light shadows get BLACKed, and no matter what I set my ISO/Shutter speed/f-stop to I can't get a shot that doesn't wash out the lit parts or completely lose the shadowy parts. Some of it can be improved in Lightroom, but it's not a miracle machine.

Shooting innawoods mostly, so I can't really fuck with the lighting.
>>
>>3130263
Trust me; the equipment factor is something I'm strongly taking into consideration.

That said, it won't be difficult to have a setup more than competitive -- at least as far as equipment is concerned -- in my local market. Most budget headshot photographers use natural light, and tell their clients they hope the background will be too blurred to be distracting.
>>
>>3130270
In general, it is up to you. Strobes can give you stronger light, so the potential of lower ISO and less noise in the images.

It's more about what you do with the light you have.

Of course, if you ever want to do something with motion, you may be better with flashes.

>>3130278
Shoot during different hours than you are.
Learn to work with the light at hand.
Don't shoot in so many split-light conditions.
Shoot more on overcast days.
Take multiple exposures and blend them in post.
Use reflectors and scrims.

You have options.
>>
Is black and white a crutch?

Half of my shots end up in black and white after editing. I'm starting to feel like I'm compensating for bad photography.
>>
I have a Pentax K50 because I'm a noob and I only wanted to take outdoor photos and it's the "best" bang for the buck weather proof camera.

Did I fuck up? Anyone else own Pentax? Why is there no aftermarket, or if there is, why so hard to find?
>>
Is there a site that has daily or weekly lessons? I have no idea what I'm doing and even when I look at a series of photos (either my own, or ones posted here) I don't understand what makes a "good" photo. Which leads me to not knowing what to look for when I'm out taking pics.
>>
>>3130839
Take a class at your local school?
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>>3130839
>>3131136
I'm taking a class at a school, and it's great because it comes with free studio time and access to equipment I wouldn't otherwise have
>>
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>>3130835
It's a tool. People prefer it for street stuff because you don't have to worry about composing with colors.

If you worry that black and white is a crutch for you, go shoot something that needs the color to make sense. A sunset is a great start.

>photo by karen jerzyk

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>>3131140
>>3131136
The only classes I could find were mornings when I'm at work. I'd pay for an online course that actually had lesson plans and such.

I guess I'm just not very smart because I tend to learn better with actual structured instruction than on my own with a book.
>>
>>3130837
I have a used K-3 with some old K mount lenses, serves me great. The only one who can decide if you fucked up is yourself really. Does the camera cover your needs? If something is lacking, does it come from you or the equipment? Btw, what are you looking for specifically? Lenses?
>>
>>3132816
Meme shit like the quick lens clip shit by Peak Design and yes, lenses.

Just seems like every time I see something interesting and go-to the description it says
>For Nikon, Canon, and Sony cameras!

Maybe I'm just being a bitch
>>
>>3132821

Not profitable to support Pentax.

Even fuji x-mount has a larger market share.
>>
>>3132822
Any particular reason why ? I thought they made good cameras
>>
>>3132945

They do make good cameras.

But how good your product is doesn't really define how good it sells.
>>
>>3132957
Fair enough.

Oh well. Its just a k50 but I like it. Weatherproof/resistant DSLR for cheapish.
>>
>>3130835
i feel like >>3131145, taking away colours and shooting b/w makes finding a good composition simpler as colour is an entire extra dimension to shine with/screw up the shot. generally i find myself using b/w if i take quick shots and have not much time while i stay with colour if i can choose location and lighting more carefully. the extremes are street vs landscapes here. a counterexample here is minimalistic stuff where colour is just distracting.

if you want to practice shooting colour, find a place with nice colours already present. besides the usual sunsets a way funnier idea is shooting in stuff like ikea, where other people already did compose the colours for you.
>>
guys please be honest : why are you using a rangefinder camera ?
>>
>>3132995
>Ikea
I like this idea.

>>3132997
>guys please be honest : why are you using a rangefinder camera ?
I have a medium format rangefinder I just wanted to try out. It's okay. I don't really hey rangefinders either, but at least I can say I gave it a try
>>
just checking the exif on this
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Does the Canon 50mm 1.8 II produce better image quality photos than some L lenses like our Lord and Saturator Ken Rockwell claims it does?
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is there any way i can make this sharper? this is the widest my aperture can go, my hands are shaky so no slower shutter speeds, and direct flash makes it look terrible

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>>3137427
Use higher iso.
Look up exposure triangle.

Sometimes firing two or more consecutive shots helps when shooting slow speeds handheld.
Then pick the sharpest one later.
>>
>>3137432
won't a higher ISO (the next step up in my case is 3200) make it less sharp?
>>
>>3137430
tripod or press the camera against a pillar/wall or whatever. or use a flash, which will probably look a little bit strange
>>
>>3137452
Yes and no. You will lose some fine detail, but the loss of sharpness from camera shake is worse.

Also mirror lockup (if your camera has it) helps reduce vibration.
>>
>>3137454
>>3137457

thanks! i'll keep these in mind
>>
Lately I've heard Alot off people use the phrase "expose for [subject]"

Does this just mean adjusting the triangle so [subject] looks the way you want it?

Or is there a separate measure for exposing "for" something?
>>
>>3137651
Imagine a portrait where the subject is backlit.
>>
I've tried other boards, and was sent here, so any recomendations for a softbox to fit on an ikea janso clamp light? http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40315673/
>>
>>3137651
>Does this just mean adjusting the triangle so [subject] looks the way you want it?

Yes, but it's not necessarily the best option because it implies either overexposing or underexposing the background.
The alternative is called "exposing to the right" which means gathering as much information as possible so you're left with the best result after editing.

If you don't want or can do any post production, then exposing for the subject is usually the best option.
>>
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I know very little about photography.
How do I do this?
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>>3139707
>tfw having to use my dementor as a model
hurts my soul.
>>
>>3128917
can you still be a photographer using a point-and-shoot camera without RAW capabilities?
>>
>>3139717
Only if it's film and you wear flannel and pedo glasses. Next question.
>>
>>3139717
You're a ""photographer"" if you're making money out of it
>>
>>3130195
Hi kurwa
>>
guys, does it turn you off that even DSLRs have electronic aperture instead of mechanical?
>>
Guys, what are some digital cameras that functions manually, like setting aperture from lens and NOT digitally?
>>
>>3128917
Best books for a total beginner to learn from when i'm not out practising with my camera?
>>
>>3139787
i only know the very expensive sony RX1R, but you can get the same feeling with buying a small mirrorless and adapting an old manual lense for it.
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>>3139787

It is less dependant uon the camera, and more upon he lens itself.

The higher end lenses, even on mirrorless, tend to have coupled focus and aperture rigs.
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How was this photo edited? Looks like lifted blacks. But there seems to be a soft pastel-ish tone as well.
>>
i have a nikon d5300

how do you expose properly when there's a ton of range in lighting? I always try to get the light meter in the middle (matrix metering), but sometimes weird lighting ruins it, like windows, so that the window is overexposed and the objects inside are underexposed. Should I stop relying on the light meter? I'm mostly concerned with being able to get good at correctly exposing quickly so I don't miss out on shots.
>>
How do I colour my snapshits like this? This must be a stupid question for most of you, but I really dont know.
>>
>>3140049
dont get tricked into thinking that "hip" fad looks good. it doesnt. dont be a sucker.
>>
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>>3128917
Film or digital?
>>
While trying to transfer my photos from my memory card to my laptop, my usb drive glitched out disconnected then reconnected a couple times. At one point for a couple seconds I got a "device could not be recognized" message but then everything was working fine. But when I went to upload it seems that a large number of photos went missing. It was for a music fest so I need these images. Any advice?
>>
>>3140049
Paint a layer with the brush in photoshop. The color you wants, and choose the "color" blending mode
voilà
>>
>>3139707
Long exposure
>>
>>3140255
Merci
>>
>>3139787
Check out Fujis. X1/X2, X-T10/X-T20 e.g.
They have lenses where you can set aperture on them, but not all of them.
>>
>>3140411
but it's still focusing by wire, not by optics like manual lenses. it really turns me off that digital cameras do that.
>>
>tfw I can't find Lightroom torrent which works
I'm either afraid to try some torrents because people say they fuck up their other programs, while others still ask me for a license after a day of use.
>>
What is anon's preferred lens for shooting portraits?
>>
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Hello fellow M4/3 users of /p/,

Which one should I get for my E-M5? Both are used.

The Olympus 17mm goes for about USD 140, while the Sigma 19mm is USD 128. USD is not my currency by the way but they sound reasonable as well in my currency.

What do I usually take photos of? I don't know, anything I guess. I'm an absolute beginner and I have the kit lens 12-50MM but I think it's pretty difficult to use.

I also heard that prime lens is usually sharper. I also am trying to achieve some nice DoF effect and honestly I think M4/3 gives that nice, subtle DoF effect. However, it is pretty hard to get it with the kit lens.

Maybe I'm just bad but I've only been able to take 1 or 2 photos with acceptable bokeh with the kit lens.

The website of pic related also shows that the Sigma have more blade than the Olympus. So perhaps I should just get the Sigma?
>>
>>3140448

Neither of those will get you much in the bokeh department. If you want to toy with bokeh, you need a longer lens with a wider aperture. In the price point you mentioned, a reasonable solution would be to get some vintage glass and an adapter. Something like these for instance:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Near-Mint-Canon-New-FD-50mm-F1-4-MF-Lens-NFD-from-Japan-Ch810hh680-/322676073202?hash=item4b20fe22f2:g:zBEAAOSwa3ZZnucN

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FD-M4-3-Adapter-for-Canon-FD-Mount-Lens-to-Micro-Four-Thirds-M4-3-MFT-Camera-/282422540181?hash=item41c1b1f795:g:YlwAAOSwA3dYlcth
>>
>>3140453
I also did look for some alternatives and adaptors but I'm also worried if they break some of the camera's functions like AF and IBIS most importantly. That depends mostly on the lens or the adaptor?

And thank you for the suggestion. I will definitely keep that one in mind although local availability is also a priority for me.
>>
>>3140467
Vintage lenses don't tend to have AF mechanisms, so you'd have to do without. It's perfectly doable with focus peaking, even if more effort and slower than without. IBIS is _In-Body_ Image Stabilisation, and it works perfectly no matter the lens.

If you do decide on either of the lenses you linked, make sure you give them a good test beforehand to get an idea of whether they get you what you really want. My guess is they won't.

If you want autofocus and aren't willing to shell out more money, your other options are to hunt for used lenses like 25mm or 45mm f1.8 on the cheap.
>>
>>3140448
What kind of look are you looking for in your pictures? What do your successes look like and do you wish to replicate those or do something else as well? Any examples you could link to?

> prime lens is usually sharper

yes

> Maybe I'm just bad but I've only been able to take 1 or 2 photos with acceptable bokeh with the kit lens.

You're on an MFT body with a lens that has a max aperture of 3.6 or so. Not surprising in the least.

> the Sigma have more blade than the Olympus. So perhaps I should just get the Sigma?

At this point just ignore the number of blades. When you need to care about that you'll know.
>>
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>>3140479
Right, I forgot about the in body part. There was a Panasonic f2.0 14mm or something around the same price range but I didn't manage to buy it since I need the money for something else as well.

I guess I can go and try some of the FD lenses when I can but even right now I'm relying on online sample photos since I don't actually have the time to go to the shops and find what I like. Plus, so far there's not that many places that sell M4/3 parts. Even used.

>>3140483
To be honest I'm just starting out so as far as I'm concerned I only have one that I consider is a success in getting that nice DOF effect.

I think the easiest way to achieve such thing with this lens is the macro mode but that makes the image space very small.

Ps. Ignore the cat's eye. She's fine a few days after we treated her every day. This photo is months old anyway.

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>>3130221
I mean, pub subs are where it's at
>>
what film camera can i get for like $300 thats relatively good
>>
>>3142520
minolta x700 (~40€) with 50mm 1.7 (~30€) + film of your choice. honestly it doesnt matter that much, as long as the body has all the functions you need and the lenses are not overpriced.
>>
My gf gave me this and it seems to be in fully working condition.
Any tips on shooting with something like this?

I'm generally interested in shooting medium format so anything about that size would be great.
>>
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I'm looking into buying some film off Impossible Project for an old SX-70 i got at a garage sale. How much comes in a single pack and do they ship to Australia?
>>
>>3143017
It's great but simple. Shoot at F8 or smaller and you can get very sharp pictures. If the rangefinder dosnt work there is a very useful cheat setting where you can make everything past a few meters in focus by looking at the red markings on the lens.
>>
What's the ranking in quality for Zeiss lenses?
eg: tessar, sonar, etc etc.
>>
>>3144044
age until the 70/80s. in antiquity the jena ones are the shittier ones because russians.
>>
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>>3143017
I have a few Nettars, not much to say about them. Very simple cameras, lens vignettes like fuck but is pretty sharp at f/8. Only a few shutter speeds to choose from, but enough for daylight situations, pick TMax/Tri-X 400 or HP5+ for the most versatility. Make sure the bellows are still okay, holes can be patched up with black tape. One great thing about these folders is that they take very little space when folded, so they are easy to bring along especially compared to a MF SLR. Along with TLRs folders are also more street-friendly, as in people don't find them intimidating. Pic related from one of my first Nettar rolls.

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Where can I get a camera like the one in the /p/ banner?
>>
Photo bucket
Flickr.

Somewhere else..

Where should I make a casual gallery dump for non-portfolio stuff?
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I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


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