Large Format Edition
>Old Thread >>3114821
>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>People looking to get their photos critiqued please include the film, lens and camera used to give some context.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.
I have a riddle for all you /fgt/ers;
Ilford FP4 developed in X-Tol 1+1 in a Jobo at 24 degrees comes out foggy. Other films developed in the same tank comes out fine. All of the films are prewashed well.
FP4 from the same batch is developed in the same chemicals by hand in a Paterson tank at 20 degrees, and comes out fine.
What is going wrong?
>>3118239
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq3abPnEEGE
>>3118239
But what is water? It's a difficult question, because water is impossible to describe. One might ask the same about birds;
>>3118239
underexposed roll? i've had it in the past by forgetting to change from 3200 to 100
Roll of Fujicolor 200 (pushed 300) through a Nikon FA.
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>>3118340
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>>3118230
what images does that camera make? 1foot photoplates?
>tfw i live in pakistan
>tfw film is completely dead here
>tfw my monthly part time job's salary is 100$
i hate my life
>>3118342
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>>3118239
What about other films in xtol 1+1 at 24°C in the Jobo? Maybe it's haunted, or has a very specific defect in a light seal somewhere; I have no idea how Joboes work in that regard.
Question : is it possible to develop films in RA-4 ? does it worth to try it (it's on sale on my favorite seller) ?
Also, Can you dilute C-41 like Rodinal ? Like 1+1 / 1+2 / 1+4 (I think 1+100 is not possible)
>>3118379
C-41 is reused, not diluted from stock. What you can do instead is pre-develop colour film in 1+100 Rodinal, standing, for 10 to 30 minutes, and wash, then develop per C-41; this has the effect of pushing contrast in the shadows more than highlights.
I've heard of people developing paper with film chemicals (with weird development times and limited capacity and caveats like that), but that the other way around will always make for shit results. Main reason being that film needs far finer development from paper, and that there's much less of it.
There's recipes for making your own C-41 equivalent developer out there, though. Slightly "hotter" than the store-bought three or four bath kits, but still fine.
>spent the last 2 weeks in America
>finished a roll on my last day today
>accidentally open the back of the camera before winding film
I want to scream this airport down. I'm so fucking pissed off with myself
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>>3118445
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>>3118436
Relax nigga, usually only a few last frames are lost unless you kept the back open while screaming and running in circles.
>>3118448
Well I was fumbling because I have a canon a1 with that stupid eye cup attachment on and I struggled to get the back closed quick enough. Was probably open for about 5 seconds.im expecting worse than 5 frames desu. Most of my best shots were in the middle so I'm hoping those are saved at least
I am a noob and I cant stop buying shit.
I want to stop.
>>3118449
it's gone
>>3118239
Perhaps FP4+ is just more finicky about temperature can't handle 24°C. Why did you develop it at such a high temperature to begin with?
>>3118544
Obviously not him, but it handles 24°C without fogging here - at least in D76.
24°C is current room temperature here and I always got a 10 l canister of water to rinse so no larger differences in temperature occur.
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Is €99 a good price for a 35mm film developing kit?
Link to the kit and what it comes with.
http://www.thephotoshop.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=382
Sorry for deleting the other post.. checked prices after typing.
>>3118581
>35mm film developing kit
No developer or fixer. You have to buy these as well.
Just checked and you can get a developing tank for 20-30eur at ebay. A chaning bag is 30-40 eur. So it would be ~30-40eur for measuring stuff. That's a little too much considering you can get those at a 1eur store. For smaller amounts (~20ml) you can ask any doctor and they give you some syringe for free.
You don't necessarily need a changing bag if you manage to get a room light tight, but I wouldn't want to miss mine.
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>>3118581
>>3118594
Yeah, everything about home developing is overpriced. Mainly because it's gear that saves in running costs, so people figure they'll have their shit paid off in X rolls and then it's free. Which is true. But still, a plastic 30ml measuring column shouldn't cost 15€. Garden stores sell those, for measuring out fertilizers and so forth, for 2€ apiece -- and even that's quite salty.
Same with reloadable cartridges. Shit costs like 3-4€ apiece, so they take two uses to pay for themselves. Again very reasonable, but old film cartridges can be reused three times to pay for them and the film that came in them. And they'll have a DX code, for people who care.
Now that I've whined about it, on the flipside this is niche shit and it's remarkable that the gear's available for less than extortionate prices at all. Guess they're competing with estates and such in the end.
Should I start developing my own color negs?
>46 bucks for 12-15 rolls
>8 to 10 bucks to develop a roll in this cucked country
>>3118374
Other films were developed in the exact same tank as the FP4, and came out perfectly fine.
>>3118544
We do all B/W at 24 degrees, to cut down on time, and to make it easier to maintain consistent temp (it's easier for a Jobo to heat something up a few degrees than to cool it down).
FP4 has been fine at 24 degrees for years, and I haven't heard they've changed the emulsion.
>>3118653
You can easily stretch the chems past 25 rolls with those C-41 kits.
Got muh new cam in the mail today
>>3118703
that camera looks adorable, how do you like it?
>>3118727
I'm digging it thus far. I'm halfway through a roll of 400H right now. The ergos are nice and it focuses quick. This is gonna be a great walk around camera.
my new rangefinder
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I'm mainly a 35mm film shooter and lately I've been trying the 120 format.
Is there a difference between the 35mm version of the film and its 120 version?
For instance the Neopan Acros 35mm and the 120?
>>3118773
it's bigger
>>3118773
It's the same emulsion, cut from the same sheet that comes out of the coater. 120 is just larger (6x6 frame is over three and a half times larger than a 35mm frame), which means smaller depth of field relative to aperture, allowing you to do subject separation with DOF more easily and with lens stopped down instead of wide open. 120 also has the benefit of mitigating grainy emulsions, because each grain is smaller relative to the total size of the film sheet than with 35mm. So if you have a shot on say, Rollei RPX 400 in 120 and 35mm, and scale down scans from each to say, 1080p, the 120 shot will appear less grainy.
>>3118239
>Definition of dichroic fog
>photography : a clouded effect or stain that is greenish by reflected light and reddish by transmitted light and is due to the deposition of very finely divided silver usually on the surface of a film or plate during processing
I would wager that your dev or fix is over capacity and needs replacing.
If it is in fact dichroic fog, I believe you can manually wash it off, however you do risk scratching up your film.
>>3118703
>>3118751
beautiful cameras
seeing as this is a LF focused film thread and you guys posted rangefinders. I have been tossing around the idea of sourcing semi-silvered mirrors to fix the rangefinder on my crown graphic. Thoughts? I suspect a 4x5 walk around is probably a waste of film when I have a Rolleiflex TLR
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Can someone give me a general guide on how to "scan" with a DSLR, I'll need everything (I only have a 50mm prime lens).
Had this idea the other day of printing images onto Kodak Vision film print to turn negatives and maybe even digital images into bootleg slides. Its probably not viable but I'm curious if anyone has ever tried this, or even how someone would be able to do it.
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Hey /fgt/, had a quick question about the flash mode on the original YE35; I tried hooking up a Vivitar electronic flash 2000 to the PC sync on the Electros side and when set to flash mode on the lens it will only fire in bulb setting with no flash. What could be causing this? I know the answer seems apparent that maybe the port doesn't work but it would surprise me considering this particular model looks to be in near mint condition.
>>3118796
How do you focus with the viewfinder?
most recent of a show in Louisville, KY
>>3118871
same night different band
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>>3118872
most recent skate photo
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>>3118874
getting landscapey
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>>3118875
>>3118876
>>3118877
>>3118796
If you're in Australia there's a guy who routinely fixes these cameras, I can hook you up if you are
>>3118871
nice, would like a bit more breathing room between the subject and the left edge though. A bit more sharpness and resolution would obviously not hurt either
>>3118872
neat sense of scale and action, I like it. Again with sharpness and resolution, but it's probably a problem with scanning and not the negative
>>3118874
not a huge fan of this one, for skate I feel like you need to be a bit closer. the compression of the lens has distorted the skater which should demonstrably be the subject in the photo
>>3118875
not amazing, could use a little contrast boost and a realistic black/white level. I feel like this could have worked on colour film, especially if you lined up the strawberry and the cloud
>>3118876
I like this, it's minimalist and the contrast is quite nice.
>>3118877
it's okay, I can see the juxtapostion you were maybe going for. Needs a little adjusting in post and maybe a tad tighter lens but I can see what you were going for
>>3118878
this desperately needs post processing. Can't really see what the photo is because everything is very similar hues of grey
also maybe next time make a new thread if you're gonna dump photos, since it'll be exposed to more people and it'll probably push some shitty gear thread off the last page
>>3118446
The shadow on the left looks really unnatural, did you Photoshop that to be so dark?
How should I digitize my 35mm negatives?
>>3118836
viewfinder is for quick composition, the rangefinder is on the side which is coupled to the focusing gears. Higher end cameras like the linhof master technika have specific cams for each lens but the crown graphic is optimized for the 135mm.
>>3118893
i'm in Canada ... little far away though we get lots of Australian snowboarders here
>>3118939
DSLR scan rig.
>>3118987
lol
>>3118449
this is what happens if you use an eye cup. you deserve it
bought an slr and was gonna start film photography
are there any books anyone recommends?
>>3118897
I understand what you mean with most of your statements. It is a reoccurring thing that I've been told to get closer when shooting skateboarding, but any closer and the dude would be landing on me. Don't want a skateboard smashing my fish-eye. Thanks for comments though
>>3118897
Better? I just posted >>3118878 because I liked the composition more
Beautiful evening light.
Full family on outdoors grill.
Whole roll of probably great pictures.
The film broke due to my fuck up earlier and everything was lost.
fuck
>>3118874
Should've been closer or used a slightly narrower focal length. Shutter speed is too slow, should've been past 1/2000 or at minimum 1/1000. Fill flash would've helped freeze motion, but not everyone has FP stuff at hand for daylight or enough power to fuck the sun at 1/60. Focus is too far forward. Pic doesn't depict the trick definitively; that looks like a high FS 180 but it could be anything-late-ur-mums-a-ho. And what the hell is that in the upper right corner.
On the plus side: composition is correctly against the sky, not a buttshot, whole board in frame and not too much to the side, I like the terrain towards the foreground and the house at the back. Sky has rendered well.
>>3119104
are you feeling a phantom pain
a photographer deprived of his roll
>>3119104
How does one "break" film?
>>3119154
it was broken during the fake UN inspection for Nukes at his family picnic
E6 is a solid meme desu
Almost as much of a meme as Portra NC/VC
>>3119154
so l will green text it
>auto p&s 1st time in life
>completely rolled it back accidentally (no shots)
>couldnt take it out
>put objects inside the can
>take it out while damaging it as it turnes out
>use it in other camera
it's all my fault
>mfw shot LF for the first time in a year today
Is Schneider glass everything it's cracked up to be on the Internet? I want a wide angle for my 4x5
>>3119073
Don't shoot fish if you can't get close enough, pussy.
2 questions
I recently traveled with a bunch of Portra 160/400 in a case that was left exposed to sun in 95 degree weather for 8 hours at a time for about 4 days. Is it going to be fucked?
Is Lomography color negative film any good for 120? I'm thinking of using it as a (slightly) cheaper alternative to Portra. I don't like the feeling of using Portra for snapshits
>>3119331
>Is Lomography color negative film any good for 120
>Portra 160/400 in a case that was left exposed to sun in 95 degree weather
Dude, you've now got a whole bunch of Lomo film, shoot it and find out.
>>3119331
I just shot their 35mm 400 speed color last weekend and I can't believe how grainy it is. Unless the darkroom fucked up the development the rest of my rolls are destined for snapshits. Pic related
>>3119331
The rolls are potentially fucked. Itd be one thing to leave them in heat like that, but if the sun was beating down on them that's not good (they probably hit 130°+). Shoot a test roll.
Based Astia 100F. Fuji canceling this film is the dumbest thing they've done.
>>3119248
this is kind of like asking which toilet is the best one to receive your leavings, my man.
it doesn't matter which one you use, because it's all shit.
>>3119366
neat.
Freezer stashhh
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>>3119520
Fuck, I have two rolls left and they expire next month. Wondering if I should use them before that.
Looked at prices the other day and it is $20 for an unexpired roll. That is a lot.
>>3119526
Jesus, I bought the pro-packs for ¥3,500/ea. Expires 2018/2019
>>3119527
Ahh I was talking about the Provia. I am looking at 135 too.
Haven't tried pro yet. They only make Pro 400 in 135 right?
>>3119529
Yeah, I'm talking about the Provia 400X...¥3,500/pack.
Pro160NS is dope (pic related). Pro400 was 120 and 135 but has long been discontinued and was replaced by 400H.
>>3119538
Whaaaaaaaaaaaat?????
God damn, that would be nice.
I have kinda just gotten into slide film nd have liked it quite a bit. Shame no one near by does 1 hour dev with it.
>>3118703
Just got the GA645 60mm version.
Such a pleasure to shoot. Shot a roll in 2 days and should have the results back soon. Halfway through the next roll.Weathers been shit here though.
>>3118874
Get way closer to your subject, fisheyes look weird to far away. You're gonna have to get used to the danger of getting hit by the board. Higher shutter speed. Timing is good, and skaters style is nice.
>>3119353
My sides.
>>3119526
Just put them in the frige/freezer until you want to shoot it. Film isn't like food where it drastically falls off a week after the expiration date.
>>3119566
>Film isn't like food where it drastically falls off a week after the expiration date.
/ck/ here. Food isn't like that either, actually.
>>3118987
post your rig
>>3119527
Where are you fonding pro packs of 400x? Which store?
"The greatness of a nation can be judged by the way its animals are treated."
went to the zoo to shoot some people.
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>>3119753
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>>3119754
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>>3119527
>pro-packs for ¥3,500/ea
That is very cheap. What store?
>>3119664
D7100 +55mm f3.5 micro +tripod +ipad as a light table
>>3119755
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this is my benis fan, I use it to cool my benis
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>>3119760
bruh get this visco shit outta muh fgt
>>3119543
I've never seen 1 hour e6 dev. That would be fantastic! Itd be awesome if the new Ektachrome does well and they follow it up with a 400 speed variation. Wishful thinking though...
>>3119748
>>3119760
Amazon Japan about 6 months ago. Impossible to find now though.
>>3119790
do you post this in every /fgt/?
>>3119804
Yea, hoping the new slide films recently make Fuji get off its but and rerelase 400.
And I got spoiled with c41, being able to drop off a half dozen rolls, grab a coffe, then come back and have them all developed was so nice. Hate having to wait 3 days, my local place has to send them out. I bet it may be faster if I went directly to where they are sent.
And I am disappointed I didn't see the 400 on amazon. I'd like to stock up on some Natura 1600 myself, seems to be getting hard to fond.
>>3119807
it's my only somewhat decent scan I got lucky at, here's another one that failed, I need an actual scanner
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>>3119810
>65535mm
my god
>>3119814
just the extension adapter not giving any info to the camera
>>3119809
>Yea, hoping the new slide films recently make Fuji get off its but and rerelase 400.
>living in a dreamworld
c'mon pal, Fujifilm ain't about to re-release anything.
>>3119817
that's true, fujifilm is actually going the other way and removing everything, and putting all film power toward shitax
What are the sharpest lenses you can get for a Fed 2 and/or Canon A1? I feel I'm taking some good shots but I'm let down by the bog standard lenses that came with it and I'm now willing to spend money on a lens.
>>3119846
Nearly all LTM (aka m39 for rangefinders) glass is old-school and relatively low-fi. Generally you'll look for the Jupiter 8 50mm f/2 sonnar copy, shouldn't cost more than fifty bucks for a good one. The Jupiter 3 is also very good, but it's not so good as to be worth the current price. As for the Canon, I have no idea.
But really, without investing like a kilobuck or something, rangefinders don't really get hi-fi. The 52-ish mm f/2.8 Industar you'll have is 70-80% of the Jupiter 8, which is 90% of the Jupiter 3, and so forth. Returns diminish very quickly. Fun to have both, but if you feel limited by optics, then a different platform may be the cheaper option.
>>3119846
If no leica glass, maybe some canon ltm, or the 21/25mm 4, 35mm 2.5, 50mm 2.5 CV ltm.
>>3118810
Pls help
I just got back some rolls I sent in for development but this time I didn't ask for digital scans, figuring I can do them at home. I have a printer with a scanner on it and a DSLR. What are my options?
I've already scanned all the film with the printer but i'm having trouble figuring out how to reverse the negatives into colour photos.
>>3119917
invert them, you nigger, then play with the hues and curves
>>3119846
the Canon 50/1.8 LTM lens is tack sharp, get that shit
all of the canon ltm lenses are good, and have way less of a premium price than Leica lenses
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Those of you who flatbed scan do any of you wet mount? is it much of an improvement?
Best roughly 100£ small rangefinder? Looking at maybe canonet ql17 or olympus xa3.
Just took a few shots and it sounds like a metal squeak sound from the shutter. I have a canon ae-1 that I normally use, but because I just got this one I was going to take it out. Should I be concerned?
>>3120045
Fml
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>>3118230
where's the best place to buy film at its cheapest
>>3120112
What the fuck is this, the Negative Feedback Facebook group? Google it.
>>3120123
I don't use google niggga, I just wanted to ask jesus lord calm down.
Little confused here, guys. Should I use the sunny 16 rule or go by what my light meter says? For example, with the sunny 16 rule shooting 400 ISO film I should set my shutter speed to 1/500 and change my aperture accordingly to the natural lighting conditions. This means that my shutter speed will always be 1/500, correct? But using my light meter, both my aperture and shutter speed will change upon conditions. This seems to make much more sense than the sunny 16 rule. So I'm on 400 ISO and set my aperture to 5.6 because of the lighting, my light meter indicates that I should use a shutter speed of 1/125. Which should I use? Because the light meter seems to make more sense to me than sunny 16 and keeping your shutter speed the same.
>>3120149
It doesn't, it means that at 1/500 you should have around f/16 in sunny conditions, but you could choose any configuration of exposure settings that gave the same exposure, like 1/2000 f/8 if you had a fast enough shutter
>>3120076
This is a common issue with the Canon A-series, and isn't a huge deal short-term. It's basically some dry lubrication somewhere in the shutter mechanism. It can affect your shutter speeds over time, so it's worth getting it fixed if you notice it actually affecting your exposures.
>>3119846
As far as FD gear goes, the 50 1.4 and 35mm 2.0 are my favorites. Most of their primes are quite decent, I don't know of any particularly crappy ones outside of the 50mm 1.8 and maybe 28mm 3.5. Spring for the older, breech-lock mount lenses (they have orange lettering instead of green) for way better build quality.
It seems like all I do is buy film.
>>3120159
Ah thanks, I'll dev the roll in it before feeding it anything else
>>3120162
>Spring for the older, breech-lock mount lenses for
cucked lense coatings, more primitive optical designs, the pain in the ass breech locking ring, double the weight, and another 10 years of wear & tear/lubricant decomposition.
>this is terrible advice; New FD uber alles
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>>3120112
Yahoo auctions
>>3120245
The nFD's have the SSC coating, so if you're getting SSC FD's it's fine. Many of the optical designs are similar, as well, and on some lenses (the FD 35mm f2 being one) the breech lock optical designs are better. Overall, it's mostly personal preference, but I've used both nFD and breech lock and vastly prefer the latter. Either will take pictures tho
>>3119755
The way that polar bear is just strutting his stuff in the background makes me kek
>>3120250
This. I recently won 12 rolls of assorted fujifilm for 1 yen
Found an old tlr in pops' closet
>pic related
Going through and testing all the knobs and knicks, I've found that at shutter speeds lower than about 250, the shutter will stick open until I reel the winder back. Visited my local camera shop and the owner told me they don't do this type of repair anymore. He also mentioned that if I do try to ship the camera somewhere for repairs, I'll most likely end up spending more than what the camera is worth.
I'm going to get a second opinion at a different camera store downtown (Houston, Tx). But I wanted to ask you guys if it's even worth going through the trouble of looking for a place to repair. I'm not knowledgeable enough to repair it myself. Thanks for any replies
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>>3120250
thank you , thats all i wanted to know.
>>3120285
Yashica TLRs are worth generally $100 or less. A CLA which would probably fix your problems will usually cost $150 or more.
Honestly, you're better off keeping it as a decoration in the hopes that it will be worth more years from now but they made an absolute shitton of those.
If I'm shooting a portrait say at f4 on 200ISO film on a day where for a landscape Id choose f11 with 1/250 ss, would i need to decrease the shutter speed to compensate for the increase light intake at the wider aperture size?
>>3120447
Yes, you'd need to adjust your shutter speed to be 3 stops faster to account for your aperture being 3 stops more open.
1/2000 @ f4 would be the correct setting in your example.
>>3120447
a 1 stop increase in aperture is compensated by a 1 stop faster shutter speed
so f11 1/250th, f8 1/500th, f5.6 1/1000, f4 1/2000, f2.8 1/4000 and f2 1/8000 all let in the same amount of light (though some films react weirdly to ultra short exposures to light, but chances are your camera only goes up to 1/1000th so it's not something you need to worry about).
Learning the exposure triangle is a good step in photography, it'll help you more objectively understand light and exposure and make you rely on your light meter less
>>3118653
>Switzerland
>Cucked
Pick one. It's expensive, sure, but not cucked
>>3118659
What about the time? I bought a kit some time ago and it says it can only be used for 6 weeks. I shoot maybe 1 colour roll every 2 weeks, so I'd waste a lot. I could only mix half and stretch it to 12 as per the manual, but even then I'd never come close to breaking even compared to just having it developed (which is only €2-3 in NL). I have a can of Protectan, couldn't I make it last longer with that? I really want to get into colour development and printing, since I like B/W so much and I'd like to be able to do everything
>>3119917
You can literally do this in MSPaint if you really shun every form of modern technology
>>3120217
You can send me some of that portra if you don't need it.
these are my fans, they cool my benis
>>3120828
>>3120582
You're definitely not gonna be printing color at home if what you mean is optical printing.
has anyone else tried the Pakon scanner and left less than impressed.
recently got some lab scans from a new lab, and they have a Pakon. Got the biggest files that it would spit out (3000x2000). The colours are bang on and super accurate, but the detail is just not there.
I have a Plustek at home and honestly it resolves an incredible amount more detail
>>3120959
>3000x2000
>lab
Do you have access to a different lab?
>>3120960
I usually scan my own shit so it's not an issue, just really wanted to see what the hype was around this particular scanner.
The lab is good, and I'd imagine the scans would be awesome for anyone who isn't a pixel peeping autist like me. They're the only place in my city that does all types of processing, super cheap and 24 hour turnaround. Can't hate em for getting a scanner that does an entire roll of 35mm in 5 minutes
>>3119204
holy fuck why didnt you just use a leader retriever
>>3120937
Why not? It's hard, but not impossible
Is this workable? A complete scam? Chibese junk that will only work the firdt time and never again?
>>3121006
It's based on an old existing design, so yeah it works.
If you want one now and don't want to wait, buy an Agfa Rondinax 35u, it's what the LabBox is knocking off. Don't spend 620 euros on that jesus christ
>>3121007
It isn't 620 euros, it is 89 euros.
That 620,000 is the stretch goal for the internal thermometer.
What's the best film lab for a lazy boy to send off his film to for development and scanning?
>>3121015
L O C A L
O
C
A
L
Yo faggots, I just printed a couple rolls I shot with this fucker, so far they turned up pretty damn good quality wise. Thing is I don't have a usb cable for my scanner atm. Is there a way I can scan the prints with my Canon 60d? Or should I just use the macro setup to scan the negatives directly? Any advice is appreciated
>>3119248
ive used a schneider 80mm for a while on mine, its pretty damn sharp and the shortcomings usually seem to come from developing and scanning well before the lens.
>>3121006
Is that essentially a kind of Paterson tank with a built in thermometer?
>>3121071
>hey guise is there any way for me to take a photo of a piece of paper?
>im total fucking retard rn atm lmao, so any advice appreciated
Is there a poorfag version of rollei 35? I mean sizewise.
>>3121219
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>>3121223
>>3121187
If you ever took a photo of a print, you would've known that they reflect light and have flares. But considering I'm in a board 90% is just brand shilling, 7% comments without knowledge and 3% actual photos, I shouldn't expect too much
>>3118230
>fgt
>f(ag)g(o)t(s)
>>3121230
Holy fuck dude, hold it flat and light it evenly.
>paper, so hard to photograph ;_;
>But considering I'm in a board 90% is just brand shilling, 7% comments without knowledge and 3% actual photos, I shouldn't expect too much
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I've been mucking about and making stuff with my film photos, what do you guys think?
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>>3121251
For reference, Sakia is the girl's name
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>>3121252
These were bad the first time they were posted, and you decided to add some ugly bs to it
Finds of the day at the local goodwill.
The case for the lens is a waste though, it gets dust everywhere when you open it. Otherwise everything seems to be working.
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>>3121263
if you honestly remember these ever being posted ya probably need go take some photos yourself
>>3121270
I have a photographic memory
>>3121278
I'll let you have that one
First time shooting with film, feedback would be appreciated.
Shot on Fujifilm Superia X-tra 400 with an Olympus Stylus Epic
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Shot an expired Kodak pro-image 100 using a Nikon FG20 and a broken 50mm
>>3121362
no hyperlocal distance at all
>>3121366
this gear isn't mine. The owner tried to clean this lens and assembled it wrong, he lost some screws from the inner elements too.
>>3121267
That's one of the good Canon FD zooms. Very sharp for a standard zoom.
>>3121358
It's a terribly boring photo of nothing that was then scanned poorly.
>>3121366
focused at infinity it's terrible hah
It should be illegal to make things this small and cute. I love how the hipster tax goes away if the light meter isn't functional, as if anyone needed an uncoupled match-needle one for daylight snapshitting.
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>>3121439
I've never touched one but I love small cameras. How is it when it comes to changing shutter speeds and aperture. I usually try and shoot very decisively so it being quick is very important.
just copped for free, what are your thoughts
>>3121006
I backed that for the 135 module and the 120 module plus main unit etc. It smashed a bunch of stretch goals, and it's based on not just an existing design (Rondinax, dank shit in its day) but working prototypes.
However, it's half italian half swiss. So, italians on Kickstarter, you know, and the gnomes of Zürich. I'll wait until the new year before denouncing them for failing to deliver.
If they do deliver it'll be just the coolest thing for processing the odd one-off roll. I'm guessing slav tier quality, leaky in terms of fluid but not light so much. On the other hand, second-hand Rondinax units are reputedly still reliable if (IIRC) some water seals are replaced. Don't know about that continuous agitation business.
>>3121006
I suppose its alright for casual film dabblers if they can actually deliver it on time with no glaring flaws in the initial run. However I see no real advantage over using a metal or Patterson plastic tank besides bypassing the need to learn how to spool film into the reels manually (hence only for casuals).
I've been developing my own film for years on the go with a Patterson tank and changing bag, eliminating any need for a completely dark room. Plus I can develop more rolls if I use a multi reel tank, whereas the Lab Box can only develop one roll at a time.
more fans
What's with the constant hype over the Nikon F3 as superior to the Canon New F-1? This seems paraded around everywhere I look, but it doesn't seem to actually bear out in the facts.
>Both are electromechanical SLRs with aperture priority and a 1/2000 max speed
>F-1 has more mechanical speeds than the single mechanical speed on the F3
>F-1 has an arguably better viewfinder display (no LCD to go bad, the internal illumination lasts 15 seconds instead of 3)
>F-1 has shutter priority capability
>Build quality on the F-1 approaches Leica levels of heft/solidity, at least in my experience.
These are minor quibbles in the long run, but small reasons are usually held up as reasons the F3 is superior. Speaking irrespective of lens lines, is there a reason the F3 is seen as so much better?
>>3121448
Shutter speed dial is easy to turn although you obviously can't see which setting is selected unless you lower the camera to look. The aperture control wheel has a locking mechanism which isn't very handy at all. If you're small handed you'll probably have an easier time. I'm planning on using it in steady daylight conditions where I can just preset everything and snap away.
Any glaring reasons not to go in for one of those big Fuji 645/690 rangefinders?
I have a Yashica Mat, but I'm not super into 6x6 and the thing is clunky as a son of a bitch when you're trying to shoot handheld. Figured the Texas Leica style would be easier to handle, but I don't know if they have reliability issues, or any other concerns
>>3121658
Popularity of Nikon as a professional brand, mostly due to their early F series cameras being the most common in working photographers during the Vietnam War. And Nikon did beat out Canon with the release of the F3. By the time the F-1 came out, Nikon had already most of the professional marketshare be it War/Outdoor/Street photogs and journalists praising the F3.
>>3121765
That makes sense, yeah. Just wondering why now, now that they're both decades-old cameras. The Nikon F3 gets reviewed everywhere while the Canon F-1 remains pretty obscure.
>>3119361
I'm gonna say your darkroom fucked it up, all my lomo 35mm 400 iso came out nowhere near as grainy as this
pic related
>>3121769
Also you have to remember how these cameras are remembered. the F3 was praised for even a decade after it's release, hell it still overshadowed the F4 and even the F5 (in some ways). The advertising campaign was HUGE and the designer for it was a very well known sport/race/luxury car designer. Meanwhile the F-1 came a year late, the advertising wasn't as strong, and even then people didn't care much for spec sheets, just how well regarded the camera was. Don't get me wrong, I've owned either of them at one point, but it was the timing that killed the F-1, and the fact that the updated version was basically a re-hash of the old one in the eyes of a consumer.
>>3121658
The main way that the F3 is inferior to the F-1, aside from lens selections etc., is that the shutter speed illuminator button is garbage. No, let me correct myself: it's ABSOLUTE, RANCID, THOROUGHLY PUTREFIED IN AN OAK BARREL HORSESHIT. It's the single, sole reason I went to the Olympus OM system instead of Nikon, despite having a D610 to use Nikon's glass but not adaptable w/ the OM mount. (the TTL flash is also nice.)
Aside from that, lovely bit of kit innit, can't bring myself to flog mine off either. Even if the shutter release has only spring resistance for tactile feedback; the 80/20 metering and the smoothest wind lever make it worthwhile. No inclination to ever use it again either.
Also, the F3's LED doesn't go bad. That's just paranoia that Nikon had about it, being relatively new technology and all. The backlight bulb does go bad, of course, at least in the pre-HP prism.
What's the best Fixer you can dilute or reuse etc
i use rodinal as developer and the mixture fixer from my university but decided to get my own
to dev at home !
thx !
>>3121941
any fixer can be reused
I use ilfostop and reused mixed fixer 5 or 6 times before chucking it. Could probably be reused more but I'm paranoid
>>3121942
so let's say this Tetenal Superfix Plus says
>1+4 up to 1+9
does it mean i dilute the whole bottle with 1+4
and pour the whole mixture in a can then when im done developing and fixing i pour it all back again ?
>>3121943
nah you only dilute what you need, concentrate lasts far longer than mixed chemicals. I usually develop one roll at a time, which is 300ml of chemicals. So if you're mixing 1+9 it's 30ml of fixer + 270ml of water. Then once you use that fixer once, you pour it into a seperate container and reuse it next time you develop.
No need to mix up the entire lot at once, unless it's powder (but usually you mix the powder into a concentrate and then dilute it when you use it)
>>3121270
I remember these being posted as well :/
>>3121945
thank you friend !
>>3121941
I use ilford's rapid fixer, diluted 1+4 to make one liter at a time. Then I use old fixer to fix for 3 minutes, and then fresh fixer for 3 minutes. Once the fresh one gets to 15 rolls per litre I mix more and cycle the old one off. I'm pretty sure I could go much farther than 15 rolls, but it comes down to 30 total and I can use t-max with relative impunity since it seems to only fuck the first fixer bath it's in. (or fucked fixer is regardless able to take the edge off. whatever.)
The thing to remember is that neither working-strength fixer nor fixer concentrate keep. Even the latter will go halfway duff within 18 months. So looking at the economics, not fixing with fresh stuff is a waste in both things expiring on you, and in one day having that tragic underfixing accident (and hastily tossing the negative before asking online) for no actual gain at all.
so I just got a Nikon 8008s and some TMax100 (I realize now that this is expensive film - the picture on the website made it seem like I was buying several canisters) B&W for my first time ever trying to shoot film. I've been doing digital for a few months now and figured I would branch out. Any tips on what would look best with this combo? I prefer landscapes, but this is just to test it out.
Does anybody know how good the Nikkor 106 f2.5 pre-ais lens is? A friend recently gave it to me as a gift along with his black Nikon F and 4 other lenses and 3 veiwfinders. What do you think of this photo?
Recent snapshit. RPX 100, accidentally overdeveloped due to poor temperature control (I think, anyway). At least it was only a test roll. 2x yellow filter on Nokton Classic 35mm f/1.4.
>>3121831
A lot of people seem to disregard release dates when talking about older cameras.
>>3121454
Nice camera, pretty basic but good quality lens
>>3121966
How are you storing your concentrate? Mine is like 17 months old and the previous dilution I mixed about 3-4 months ago still clears film in one minute. I've heard people having their Rapid Fixer concentrate last well over 2 years.
Any good lightmeter phone apps?
>>3118977
>i'm in Canada ... little far away though we get lots of Australian snowboarders here
hahaha so fucking true, vancouverite here
>>3119760
nice shot dude!
Just some trix400 shots
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>>3122338
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>>3122339
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>>3122340
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>>3122099
Is the distortion really that bad? Got the 2.5 skopar and I'm looking for something faster. The cron 2.0 is less than 1 stop faster, but 3-4 times the price, while the CV 1.2 is too large/heavy imo. Only lens left is the summilux, but madame is not going to be happy about this investment.
>>3122338
Like it.
>>3122341
And some superia 400, shot on Konica FS1 + 40mm 1.8
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>>3122437
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>>3122438
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>>3118436 here
Got the film developed. Only the last 5 shots were ruined. Absolutely stunned considering how long the back of the camera was left open
>>3122408
This was a shot heavily angled down, more to judge maximum resolution and so forth than anything else. And I couldn't figure out a way to better compose successive 1800s fortifications with the moss and weeds and such that'd grown around it afterward. Plus it was like 6 AM and effective ISO 50.
As for distortion, I wasn't outright disappointed. It's clearly a hifi lens compared to basically anything soviet, even wide open. Currently I'm thinking that the leicafags doth complain overmuch.
>>3122408
Here's another sample, wide open. Distortion is fine to my eye, but the vignetting was completely uncorrectable in this negative. Raunchy doesn't begin to describe it. The crop ate some of it here, but looking at the straight-up picture I was honestly looking to see how far down the narrow edge it went.
Anyway, I'm gonna choose to treat this as the lens' Secret Super Holga Mode. Don't nobody pay too much for this stuff now ya hear.
>>3122485
But like, if you look at it from the viewpoint where impressionistic shit is cool, then it's a fine lens. Weenies will note the field curvature in this one, even at a distance of 2-3 meters.
But see how fucking well it works in putting the lowest part in focus, and only drawing attention to the old tree surrounding the sapling? This is like the anti-wank lens.
(camera underexposed this by just enough to work well even overdeveloped. huh.)
>>3122491
can't we just call this a blurry tree snapshit and move on?
Posting a few shots from recent rolls.
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>>3122522
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>>3122523
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>>3122526
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>>3122527
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>>3122528
Wasted 3 frames trying to get this shot, and then missed the focus when he actually stayed still. Still a good doggo tho.
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C41 color converted to bw from a 6x6 camera using a 6x4.5 back cropped further in post.
#filmispure
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>>3122341
goddamn he l o n g
Ayo my bitches anyone used Rollei CR200 before?
I wanna cop some to use to use in my new (old) Yashica Mat since it looks like it has a vintage a e s t h e t i c
>p&s in charge of metering/exposure
>>3122816
damn that's spot on, impressive for a point and shoot
>>3122816
That's pretty much just center weighted metering and colour negative film. Nothing special but so good that it's a shame about the plebmarks.
Kodak Ultramax from last year, cross processed and pushed two stops.
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>>3122834
What was this cross processed in? Obviously not b&w, right
>>3122834
desu my dude this just looks like ultramax underexposed two stops
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>>3122636
that's what she said
>>3121358
Replace your light seals. There's tutorials on YT, basically you remove the fossilised remains of the light seal foam+glue with methylated spirits and glue either some new foam in it or a wool strand. You can use an old film canister's velvet patch for larger surfaces like in the hinge area
how do you guys deal with dried water streaks on your negs? even after washing them with distilled water and photo-flo i still get them. i've used a cotton ball and breathed on it which kinda works.
I shot this on arista 400, why is the grain so insane, this is 4x5 sheet film. I'm thinking of switching to Bergger Pancro, has anyone tried it?
>>3123139
Bergger Pancro 400 is a great film, but its a bit more pricey and unavailable in 35mm 100ft bulk rolls, which is a deal breaker for me. I've never tried their 4x5 film because I always used Ilford for large format but from what I've seen its really nice. It might be worth a try just to expand your knowledge and experience.
There might be other things that affect grain, such as exposure, developer, temperature, times, etc. Make sure its not one of those issues before switching film.
>>3123139
Is that a fiero?
>>3123157
it's a lotus elise
>>3123148
What would you compare Pancro 400 to? Did you shoot any BRF400+ (aka Orwo n74+, or some such) for reference?
I've seen hardly anyone characterize that particular film in detail. Contrast with e.g. ferrania's 80 speed b&w film, which is known to be close to orthochromatic, prissy in the darkroom, and very good for exposing at 50. Spose I oughta google and report back.
>>3123162
im laughing
>>3123157
It's a Toyota Mustang MR2.
A joint effort between America & Japan.
>>3123161
Bergger Pancro 400 is like a mix between HP5+ and Tri-X 400. From my experience it can be contrastier than HP5+ and have gritty grey tones that are more like Tri-X. The grain isn't as intense/pronounced as those two films though.
Your development methods and chemistry will also affect its characteristic. My best advice to you is to buy some if you can and try it out for yourself. Only you will know how it looks like with your dev methods.
I haven't tried any Orwo or Foma films as they aren't easily accessible where I am so I stick with the mainstream stuff. From what I hear though Foma isn't as good as modern emulsions (its prone to scratching too).
>>3123161
Shoot Pancro 400 at 320 or 200 and develop normally at 20C. Lovely tones and fine grain, very easy to print.
>>3123201
how does it compare against arista?
>>3123248
>>3123139
I believe Arista in 4x5 is rebranded Fomapan. Some Google searching seems to indicate that is the case. All of Arista's films are rebranded anyways.
Fomapan is an "older style" emulsion and tends to be quite grainy.
This link might be of use to you with regards to rebranded films: https://darkroom-solutions.com/notes
>>3123248
If you want to compare it in terms of quality then Bergger Pancro 400 is way better than Arista if the Arista is indeed rebranded Fomapan.
I'd rate it up there with the tried and true contenders from Kodak and Ilford. Its a unique/new emulsion and it won't hurt to try it out. Like someone mentioned above, shoot it at ISO 200 or 320 and dev normally
However if its priced way above what Ilford or Kodak is offering then I wouldn't bother unless you are willing to spend the money.
>>3123139
Shot one roll at box speed, developed in ID-11, minimal agitation. Extremely grainy, much more so than RPX 400 which is half the price. Never going to shoot this shit again.
Fucking hell I just discovered the eyepiece has unscrewed itself and fallen off my R2A in the last week or so. Replacements are a tenner each. Thankfully it's the same part as x-pro 1, fm, fa, etc. take.
>>3123266
I think this one looks rather good, as far as midtones and detail are concerned. (much like BRF400+ in fact, though that had more grain.) Anyway, since the BRF400+ is but a memory now, I'll just try and see. For sure it'll have stiff competition from RPX 400.
Hello, could anyone suggest me a camera that has the option to shoot at iso 800 or 3200?
>>3123402
any camera with manual settings can be used to shoot with any iso
I think you lack a fundamental understanding of exposure OR you want a camera with a lightmeter that can meter for iso 3200
shot with Agfamatic 1008 and Lomo Peacock. low resolution scan and some noise reduction and light color correction. pics turn out extremely grainy in low light.
critique?
>>3122881
expired film? I love how dreamy it makes it look
>>3122834
love the sky, but city would look better darker
>>3122522
love this character and the colors
>>3122437
the colors turned out fantastic, so poetic
>>3123266
I bought two rolls, shot one already and am a bit afraid it'll look like this in HC110. I don't mind grain generally (usually push hp5 or tri-x to 1600) but since I'm exposing at box speed I really don't want that much. I've had less grainy results with Kentmere 400 pushed to 1600, though that was with Xtol.
Otherwise it does look good though, plenty of detail and I like the contrast.
>>3123403
He obviously wants a camera with a lightmeter that can meter for iso 3200
I had a dream Fuji revived Provia 400 and 1600 to counter Ektachrome's revival. Then I realized Fuji is now a digicuck with instagram tier filters and woke up in terror.
Let me go back to sleep, /fgt/.
>>3123403
My Zenit can only shoot up to 500, that's why I need another camera that can shoot up to 3200
>>3123425
>expired film? I love how dreamy it makes it look
It's actually new portra 400
>>3123507
*160
I´ve been wanting to upscale my darkroom to do colour printing too. However, I´m on the fence as to which paper I should buy: matte or glossy. On the one hand glossy is the most used and gives a somewhat sharper look, but I think matte often has a more 'quality' look to it. What are /p/'s opinions on this?
>>3123524
Always matte, no matter what.
>>3123533
Kek, I see what you did there. I think I'm going with the 30x40cm matte Fuji Crystal Archive then. What's your reason to choose matte, if I may ask?
>>3123137
Someone pls
>>3123534
Glossy just always looks like cheap shit, whether color or B/W. Matte will always looks better.
My photo guy prints on Fuji Crystal Archive, and I'm super happy with it. I get his waste from the minilab for free, so I have several bags worth of rolls in 10cm and 30cm width, ready to go for whenever I can get my Jobo processor up and running properly, haven't been fucked to try hand processing RA-4 yet.
>>3123564
I bought the CA matte 30x40, plus the chemicals, some larger developing trays (my current ones are too small to handle 30x40) and some extra stuff. Now I'll just have to wait until I can pick up my Durst MF colour enlarger and I'll be good to go.
Although, I'm still pondering over what I should use to keep the RA4 chemicals at the correct temperature. Aquarium heaters are an option, but apparently they're not really that accurate and often only go up to 32 à 34 Celsius
>>3123550
I already used distilled water for the final wash. But then I squeegee with my fingers, could this be the issue maybe?
>>3123593
Don't think so. Did you mix Photoflo with distilled water?
Or perhaps you're using too much Photoflo? Too much of it will leave residue.
>>3123599
Yes I mixed it with the distilled water. And I'm not sure, I use like half a cap full and add it to the water.
>>3123593
Maybe if you'd have very dirty hands, idk. I also use my fingers (although I threw in a film squeegee with the order I just placed).
Some things to consider:
>Do you rinse long and thoroughly enough?
It is essential that the water pushes through the whole developing tank, like in the shoddy MSPaint drawing I made. Use a hose connected to the hole or push a funnel in it. Don't just let it fall on top of the tank, because the bottom water will never be refreshed this way. You should rinse for at least 15 minutes and then do a final rinse.
>Maybe let the distilled water soak for a while during last rinse. It could be that your water is really hard (although I doubt that) and some CaCO3 remains in the film
Or what >>3123599 says. Too much is never good. I believe just a drop of Photoflo is enough, but then again, I don't use it, I just use a drop of Dreft
>>3123600
That could be too much. I've read about people using as little as a couple of drops per gallon. Half a cap per developing tank sounds like a lot.
>>3123600
Half a cap full of Photoflo for a 2 or 3 reel tank is waaaaay too much. A drop or two will suffice for such a tank. I use an eyedropper or a clean plastic srynge to control how much Photoflo goes into the tank.
>>3122522
love the colors!!!!!!
>>3123600
Also I don't recommend you mix Photoflo into a large container beforehand, just add a drop or 2 into your tank and pour in the distilled water.
If you still want to mix Photoflo beforehand then do not reuse it. Use the diluted Photoflo as a one shot.
recent snap crap
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>>3123612
Love the photo, but the grain is way too much imo. Just use D76 instead of Rodinal like the cool kids
>>3123614
im really new and have no idea of what this means
>>3123615
edit: now i know what it is, thank you
>>3123564
Matte B&W is wedding photo tier.
For me it's unpressed fibre gloss for the win.
>but you haven't truly matted until you've tried Velvet Stipple
>>3123524
See if you can get some Kodak Endura. While the Fuji Crystal Archive is also a great paper it has started to become a little too thin over the years for my liking.
>>3123701
Fugg, I ordered a 50 pack of Crystal Archive already. Oh well, I'll remember it for the next order.
>>3123707
No worries, its still a great paper.
Rare to see people still using the RA4 process these days so print lots while supplies are still available/affordable. Happy printing!
>>3123697
Are you sure? It looks like grain to me.
>>3123696
Wut? I don't use anything else but matte and semi-matte b/w. Especially Ilford pearl half matte looks really good imo
>>3123710
Thanks a lot! It's going to be a steep learning curve, I'm sure. I have been wanting to get into colour ever since I started, but I figured I should be at least somewhat skilled in b/w printinh before even trying, seeing that it's not very easy and it can go wrong at a lot of turns (and can be dangerous because of the fumes). I feel like I'm ready to try now, especially since I have some (imo) great MF colour negatives which my lab will only print to a maximum of 13x18cm, which of course does no justice to medium format so I really have to get into RA4. Do you do RA4? What are your experiences?
>>3123715
I don't do a lot of RA4 these days as its not as accessible as it was a few years back. I still do a lot of B&W printing on fibre paper though.
I never did try tray processing for RA4. Used mostly Kodak Endura and then Fuji Crystal Archive in recent years but still liked Endura a lot better. Crystal Archive feels cheap in my hand these days due to it being so thin.
Like you've said, printing is something that you have to do lots of and often in order to get good at it. You'll develop a knack for accurate colour balancing with some practice. Persistence always pays off, and I'm sure that you'll appreciate all your beautiful chromogenic prints in the future when the process becomes scarce.
Lmao why would you cucks pay big bucks just to take photos more grainy than my jpegs taken with my phone
>>3123719
I'm really stoked to get started, I'll have my setup complete somewhere next week so I'll hopefully post the first results then. B/w remains great though, I do some work for family and friends and I love to just go the whole way with toner etc., just knowing that you have worked hours on a good, large print which will last decades, that's what it's all about
>>3123723
yeah fuck film and fuck white people lmao
Ayyy Lomo slide film not cross-processed
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>that whiff of stop bath
So I just got this camera.
I am in love.
A rangefinder spot isn't as easy to use as an slr's splitscreen, but I went my whole first roll without a missed focus shot. I think it will be okay.
I am using it with a voigtlander 40mm f/1.4 Nokton Classic MC. I really want to get the original 40mm f/2 m-rokkor too, but it costs around $500 on e-bay.
>>3123857
why do you want an inferior version of the same lens? the voigtlander is a clone of the same 40mm with a wider aperture. their performance at f2 is the same. The Leica has a plastic focus tab instead of metal.
Stop being a gearfag anon or I will break into your house and steal your gear.
>>3123452
;-;
>>3123869
I wanted the Minolta version because it is a little bit smaller, and, from what I had read, sharper.
The Voigtlander is pretty much useless past f/2 anyway.
But yea, I can't justify it. I will actually probably pick up the m-rokkor 90mm f/4 next. I'd like the 28mm too, but it is hard to find a clean version.
Redpill me on film
Shot some Ektar
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>>3123890
Kill your whole self, faggot.
>>3123890
are you 10?
Would I really save more money developing and scanning my own film?
I mainly shoot digital, but switch to film on special occasions. I've been going to Costco to get my shit developed and scanned.
>>3123937
if you mainly shoot digital it may be better if you go to costco.
>>3123872
>The Voigtlander is pretty much useless past f/2 anyway.
I'm starting to think that rangefinder focusing is what's useless past f/2. But yeah, never saw a vignette as strong as on a NC wide open. Say what you will about the lens, but mine is head and shoulders better than my Soviet lenses even at its worst -- despite being "only" SC. It's a difference I can see just from peeping the negatives.
How's yours for flare? Hood help out at all?
>>3123960
Yea, I have trouble enough hitting focus when I have it attached to my mirrorless. F/1.4 is just so razor thin, and the vignetting is killer. You are right though, it is great stepped down.
I have the MC so it may be different, but i haven't had too many flaring issues. Some when I am practically shooting into the sun, but that happens on anything.
I do have to hood, but find it interferes with the viewfinder patch sometimes, so I tend to leave it off. Only shot one roll with it off for the whole thing, so I don't have much to compare.
Help me understand the logic here with any photos:
https://www.reddit.com/r/forgottenfilm/
>find old film far past the time it should have been developed
>get it developed
>do not perform any post-processing, corrections, or clean up
>post to the internet
Why leave the photos looking shitty? This is not how they were ever intended to look. I suppose some people like this faded, forgotten aesthetic, but to me it seems like you should at least try to remove dirt from the negative.
>>3123992
Because lots of people think film photos always had that faded, shitty quality look.
>>3118653
>$10 to develop
Hey, come to Sweden, I pay $18 a roll and that's the cheapest place I've found in stockholm, and the only place that will actually give them in digital format as well (without forcing me to accept them on a fucking CD)
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