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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

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File: R8410618.jpg (1MB, 2042x1521px) Image search: [Google]
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Rerolled Motion Picture Film Edition

>Old Thread >>3110120

>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>People looking to get their photos critiqued please include the film, lens and camera used to give some context.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.

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>>
Have any of you /fgt/s used rerolled motion picture film before?
>>
>>3114826
I have a roll of Cinestill 800T in my fridge, but I'm saving it for my vacation next week.
>>
>>3114826
Sorta, bw archival copy film. Hand-loading is completely viable if you have a god's patience and a large lightproof room.
>>
>>3114826
I've used regular Kodak Vision 50D before. I really liked the results, especially how it looks overexposed, If I still had a 35mm camera I'd be shooting it all the time, but I am also lucky that there is a guy developing ECN-2 near me.
>>
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>>3114821
I'm looking for a budget film scanner for medium format and 35mm; any idea of what I should get?

I'm currently looking at the Epson V550.

Mostly I'm trying to get away from paying $15 to have my photos developed and scanned from a single roll, so a $100 used scanner sounds good to me.

And with that said as well, does a decent free post scan processing software exist, or at least something I can pirate?

Also pic related is from my first roll from my OM-1 with the 72mm Tamron telephoto lens. Quite happy for 8:00pm dusk and 400 speed, 20 year expired film.

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>>
>>3114869
you got a dslr? dslr scan
>>
>>3114870
No DSLR, only reason I have the OM-1 and OM-2 and shitload of lenses is that I got it for $80.

But that said, I'm looking into getting a Sony A6000 body with adapters for my OM lenses. But that's going to be at least $500.
>>
>>3114869
Canon CanoScan 900F Mark II does a fantastic job. There are only two minor problems with it:

1. The software is a pain-in-the-ass to figure out. This tutorial helped me out a ton: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cjrFMYBWz4
2. The output images are ever so slightly out of focus when under close inspection. I think this is because the included holders elevate the film off the glass about a millimeter or two. This isn't too huge a problem, but it makes 9600 dpi scanning useless.

Other than those two things, it makes an excellent scanner for 135, 120, 220, or slide film.

https://www.amazon.com/Canon-CanoScan-MKII-Negative-Scanner/dp/B00AGV7TQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500146999&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+canoscan+9000f+mark+ii
>>
>>3114826
I bought a 200' spool of tungsten balanced vision 2 a few years back. It came out pretty bad (very grainy, weird colors) but I was shooting in daylight with long expired film and developing in old c41 chemicals. I have another roll in a camera now and I got a yellow filter for it so we'll see how it turns out.
>>
belomo agat 18 vs Chaika 2

what would you choose /fgt/s?
>>
>>3114932
i have a chaika 1, it's good. dat metal. agat 18 plastishit.
>>
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>>3114932
have used both, agat's only upside is size/weight, the chaika is bigger/heavier than a lot of 35mm compacts. Infinitely better control-wise and iq-wise though. Awful focus shift on that industar-69 though. They're both bottom of the half frame barrel bad but the Agat is another kind of bad entirely. The shutter and aperture are physically the same thing and you're stuck using prefixed combinations and the lowest you can go is f2.8@1/63ish, no bulb and the lens is horrid soft wide open. exclusively a daylight snapshot cam. Here's a photo Catsby took with one.
>>
How do I into Velvia? I had to get 2 rolls because my Ektar won’t arrive in time for my holiday.

>>3114869
V550 is a good shout, I use it. Exactly the same as the V600 but without the software which you can pirate anyway.
>>
>>3114869

Flatbeds aren't bad. 35mm doesn't look that great from them, but MF is pretty good.

I prirated VueScan before. It's pretty good, but last time I scanned I just used default epson program. Results were fine.
>>
>>3114940
>>3114942
thanks guys
>>
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>>3114984
>inb4 dumbshit comes in again and says the flatbed scan is better
>>
>>3114984
How good is the DSLR method compared to these old Nikon film scanners that aren't produced any more?
>>
>>3114998
It's a highly cropped scan made with a V600, keep your dreams alive, faggot.
>>
>>3114984

How does the v800 handle 35mm scans
>>
>>3115018
I don't know, sorry, all I can say is that DSLR scanning is way better than V600 and I guess lower end flatbeds. I'll provide more comparisons these days, I'm still experimenting since it's my second day adopting this method. It requires a little bit more time to do it but it's also less expensive if you already have a DSLR, I spend just 2€ using some brain to set it up.
>>
>>3115020

have you tried wet mounting your negatives?
I real ghetto way is using cooking oil, so if you try it, use a test negative you don't mind
>>
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>>3114984
I also provide the source, that is a slightly underexposed shot, 1 stop more or less.
Nikon N4004, Af Nikkor 35-70 and Kodak BW400CN. Amatrice, Italy. As I said in some /fgt/s ago that place now doesn't exist anymore.

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>>
>>3115034
Man, with all respect, who the hell would dip in vegetable oil a negative?
At least not me, not even giving a try, too much time cleaning and shit to increase by not that much the results. I'd say that DSLR reproduction for me is just enough, no chromatic aberrations, no time waste, more definition (someone says otherwise but that's what I clearly see) and better color/contrast rendition.
At least acceptable to share my snapshits with you guys and on social medias. For the rest darkroom all the way.
>>
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>>3114998
I used to use a 9000ED and now scan with my A7. With 120 the 9000ED beats the A7 if we're talking about taking a single shot and cropping. I have a feeling going 1:1 with the A7 and stitching the photos would, at the very least, match 9000ED quality. That'd be a pain in the ass though.

Can't do any direct comparisons because all of my negatives I scanned using the 9000ED are on the other side of the world. Plan to do some comparisons once I'm reunited with them.

Here's some 120 A7 + Canon FD 50mm 3.5 Macro scans with 100% crops These are single shot scans, not stitched composites.

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>>
>>3114869
if you have a computer with an old OS sitting around spend the money and get a coolscan 8000. the 9000 is the way to go if your a richfag
>>
>>3115144

Vuescan can operate coolscans
>>
>>3114821
ok guys, should i even care about the camera ? or should i just care about the type of films and my talent in shooting (or capturing, idfk) ?
>>
>>3115020
>hey everyone, I used to be bi, but now I've realised having sex with women is way better. It's easier, cleaner, doesn't alienate me from my family and most importantly feels better
>>3115034
>yeah, but have you tried going bound bottom in a pos-on-neg bareback gangbang?
>>
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>>
>>3115179
kys
>>
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>>3115187
I think what he's saying is that doing something that will make the shatbedding process infinitely more terrible is not the next step for a person who's found a better way.

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>>
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>>
>>3115167
You need a weird ass interface card to use the old scanners

SCSI if I remember correctly. You can buy adaptors to USB tho
>>
>>3115020

I used DSLR scanning for the longest time, but having my only digital tied up in my scanning setup got pretty fucking annoying pretty fast.

I wnde up getting an 8200i and have absolutely fallen in love with it. 3200 dpi sc(ns are quick and easy. 7200 take awhile longer, but look absolutely amazing. Software that came with it is pretty nice too.

Got no vlue what I will do once I get a 120 camera though...

Buy a 6x6 digital back so I can scan with it? topkek
>>
I have been borrowing my dad's old Yashica since I started shooting film, and I've been thinking of getting a camera of my own.
I don't know what to get though, I have a Nikon DSLR but none of the lenses have aperture control so they don't work on most SLRs. I have some m42 lenses but the most expensive one is a $60 Mir.

I've been thinking about the Nikon F3, I really like the modularity of it. Would it work for me? What's the price I should pay for a pretty nice one? I need to get some lenses too but right now I can use the converter I have for m42.
>>
>>3115204
>>3115204
It depends on which system you adopt. My DSLR is completely untied from the scanning "device" I created, it takes literally 2 seconds to get it ready and even less to put it away.
>>
>>3115213

Yea, I was using a tripod and light tablet.

It only took a second or two to get attached, but quite a long time to get them aligned properly.

I wanted a proper copy table, but I have no room for one here.
>>
>>3115178
guys..
>>
Alright team, just bought an Nikon F3 and MD4. What cheap lenses should I be looking at?

The huge catalog of lenses is quite daunting and I don't really know where to start. Anything like a good 50mm?
>>
>>3115209
I'm lucky, just scored a nearly mint f3 for $130AUD from a Japanese auction site. I reckon you shouldn't pay more than something like 250US for a good condition body.
>>
>>3115222
>>3115224
Disregard both of those, I got my winning bid cancelled. Well and truly cucked.
>>
>>3115178
You should absolutely care about everything, camera and film are important as much as your capabilities. So study how to damn take a photograph and buy some good gear and films
>>
>>3115225
>I got my winning bid cancelled
how?
>>
>>3115227

Seller didn't want to sell to dirty gaijin.
>>
>>3115209

So I buy and sell old 35mm cameras on eBay. I think you can get a nice F3 or F3HP for between 150 and 220. Just check new listings once or twice a day. I mean the best F3HP I've seen I paid 100 bucks for it, cleaned it up and tested it, then sold it for 160 (I thought it would go for more). Lots of deals to be had on eBay if you're patient.
>>
I am looking at going for a Nikon F5 and a used CoolScan 5000. If I have the budget are these decent materials to make high quality enough scans for a medium sized print?
>>
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>>3115226
what counts as 'good gear' ?
>>
>>3115197
some of the very old scanners were SCSI
the Coolscan 8000 and 9000 were Firewire

>>3115167
I didn't really like Vuscan for the 8000, instead I run a partition on my imac with an old OS.
Though I wouldn't mind trying Silverfast but it costs more than I payed for the scanner
>>
>>3115263
Good SLRs and rangefinder cameras, don't even think you'll be able to learn something from a plastic trashcam or a Russian shitty piece of metal.
>>
I opened my camera with film inside. did I lost everything or just a couple frames?
>>
>>3115306
Only the gods know that, develop it and keep praying in the meantime.
>>
>>3115301
why exactly ? why not mirrorless ?
>>
>>3115324
Because if it's manual focus you'll probably fuck everything up, if it's autofocus you won't decide what to put in focus.
>>
Hi /fgt/'s, I just finished a roll of Fujifilm 64T. However, since the film has expired for a little over 15 years and I was using an 85D filter to shoot it under daylight so I had to shoot it at 25 ISO. Does that mean I have to pull it to 25 ISO when developing it or should I develop the film at 50/64 ISO?
>>
>>3115361
Develop at box speed.
>>
>>3115361
No
>>
>>3115364
No...what?
>>
>>3115361
Per every ten years film has expired, increase the exposure by one stop.
>>
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Hey, just getting into film. Came across a TL-Super at a flea market for 10 bucks and figured I'd get my start there. What film/settings does /fgt/ recommend for something like pic related? Is it even possible with this camera?

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>>3115380
Here's another

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>>3115380
>>3115382
And one more

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This shows up on a couple shots from seemingly every roll I've developed lately. The horizontal bit, not my shit focusing. Something to do with developing I'm assuming, but haven't found anything when I tried to look it up.
Anyone know what it is/ how to fix or prevent?

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>>3115380
...what? learn how exposure works. the camera is irrelevant (don't buy a leica). he used kodachrome which can't be processed anymore.
>>
>>3115554
google: newton's rings
>>
>>3115377
But does that mean you also have to develop it at that speed or box speed?
>>
>>3115555
>can't be processed anymore
Yes it can
>>
>>3115225
Fucking rip my dude what site was it?
>>
>>3115591

There are third parties that have made a guess at the chemicals and they come up with acceptable results sometimes. Kinda like caffenol on steroids.

But proper developing? No, it is dead.
>>
>>3114908
I Love My 9000F

>>3115554
could be your film is touching something while developing
>>
>>3115345
wait, so i should learn from manual focus cameras, right ? is that what you're saying ?
>>
guys. so i want to get into photography but i'm not interested in learning photoshop or photo editing. is that why film photography is superior ? because unedited results will turn out better than digital ones ?
>>
hey /fgt/ i am someone who has never done any photography except on my phone & w/ a shitty point & shoot when i went on a trip a few years ago

a few friends picked up cameras, and i want to go take pictures w/ them when they go out shooting. one of them runs the dark room at our college, and so i was thinking of getting a film camera.

i've done a tiny bit of research, and i have decided that i want to get a camera w/ a rangefinder. they seem to be great quality, and some of them are pretty low price.

the cameras i've been looking at are the Olympus XA, Konica Auto S2, olympus 35 sp, Minolta Hi-Matic E, & Yashica Electro 35 GSN

anything i should know about these cameras? any particular recommendations?
>>
>>3115634
That'd be one reason people would have, yeah.

A lot of people tend to edit their digital images to have a film-like aesthetic, so by just shooting film your results tend to be quite close to a final image.

Film is also insanely inconvenient, but you probably already knew that
>>
>>3115638
Most of the fixed lens rangefinders you listed are semi-automatic, aka you set the aperture and the cameras automatically figure out the shutter speed to correspond to it. Not a bad thing, just something to note.

If you want something with interchangeable lenses, the Canon rangefinders are very nice. The Canon P and Canon 7 can be had very cheaply, and you can use a wide variety of lenses with them.

It should be noted that while rangefinders are great to use, SLRs tend to be a little easier for beginners since the viewfinder is a more accurate representation of what your final image will look like. SLRs can be had much cheaper too. If you're looking for SLRs, pick something that comes with a 50mm lens (most do).

Also for the love of god don't buy from an eBay listing that says the camera is untested. Untested = it's broken
>>
>>3115650
that would be the only reason i get into film, i guess. so it's positive, yeah, that film photography is better if i don't want to go into the realm of editing ?
>>
>>3115650
>>3115656
also i'd just have to buy a negative scanner, i guess. i mean i don't want to develop physical photos or something, i just want to social media all of them
>>
>>3115638
Konica hexar rf. Is a good quality semi cheap option.
>>
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>>3115656
>>3115657
Editing is still something that you can do to film. Even back in the days before scanning, things like contrast, shadow detail etc were edited and changed in printing. I always tend to add a bit of sharpening and get exposure levels a little more natural with film scans.

For example here's a before and after of a recent slide film scan. The before image is what the scanner gave me (the film is quite old and I underexposed it given it's age) and the after is what I got as my 'final' image after a couple simple tweaks. There were better photos from this set so I didn't end up using this photo but you get the idea
>>
>>3114942
did you ever use a Chaika 3?
>>
>>3115662
so what do photographers do in photoshop ? i've seen some of them do stuffs like removing dots on faces, like fuck how do i do that ? seems pointlessly time consuming.
>>
>>3115677
Do you need to do that? Working photogs often spend hours on a single image.

If you don't know why you would need to do it, chances are you really don't need to do it.

Just get lightroom if you feel the need to edit your photos, and do simple adjustments. The scans you'll get from a photolab will probably be perfectly acceptable
>>
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>>3115673
Except for the uncoupled meter and lack of cable release (bad for long exposure bulb stuff), it's an upgrade on the previous models with a coldshoe and, most importantly - added viewfinder framelines - albeit I never got to compare them to the actual image area so I can't say how useful thry are for framing. Remember you can always unscrew the lens and sell it to some digital mirrorless faggot for four times as much as a chaika's worth.

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>>3115677
>so what do photographers do in photoshop ?

make their images exactly how they want them to be
>>
>>3115677
It's really not that hard... It's sounds like you're a technophobic desu
>>
>>3115685
yeah i'm pretty technophobic. but the main reason is because the after process looks pretty boring and dull. unless of course it's your job.
>>
>>3115681
true, recently got one with the Industar-69 for 5€ at a flea market, haven't tried it out yet though
>>
Hey all.

Just received an Epson V550 from amazon last night and started trying out scans on it. Let me know if you guys have any tips for it!

Here's one of my first scans of a shoot I did a few weeks ago.

Portra 400
Fuji GA645i
>>
>>3115691
Could probably make the white balance a little more natural and lower the black point to a more realistic level but that's all personal preference. Scan looks good quality wise desu

What software you using?
>>
>>3115691
did you use the flash?
>>
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>>3115691
curves

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>>3115735
>>
>>3115735
just gotta watch your blacks/shadows, going a lil magenta there

but yeah dropping the black level and a better white balance makes a world of difference
>>
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>>3115735
you made it worse
>>
>>3115735
not what i was going for

i tried multiple styles of colors but i wanted it to look closer to instant film, something not refined.

>>3115741
didn't want black backs

>>3115723
idk, epson scan? the shit that came on the CD

>>3115733
on camera flash.
>>
>>3115742
i fuck with this


my goal was to achieve the look of 90s japanese car scene
>>
>>3115744
inspiration image
>>
>>3115745
more inspo
>>
>>3115746
3rd image of the set
>>
>>3115747
still willing to take critiques and advice on what i could do to achieve "the look" i wanna get.
>>
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just did my first 35mm scans

contax tvs
expired superia 800
>>
>>3115753
man the 280zx is such an ugly duckling

considering it's heritage (240z) I don't know how they made it so boxy and 80s so quickly
>>
>>3115753
>>
>>3115753
Potentially nice photo. Shit composition though.
>>
>>3115765
i know. don't worry, i wasn't looking for composition in that shot.
>>
what's the difference between the speedlite 177a and 155a? which should I get?
>>
>>3115770
get the 155a. i have the 155 and 199. if you wanna bounce off shit like the ceiling do 199. but the 155 and 177 is basically just size /power but since ur forgoing the light angling feature just get the smaller one for functionality
>>
>>3115770
The 177a looks like it has more features
http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/speedlite_155a.pdf
http://www.cameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/speedlite_177a.pdf
>>
>>3115113
what's this A7 you speak of? did a quick search and nada.
>>
>>3115781
He means a Sony A7 - a digital camera he used to scan his film negatives through the use of a macro lens
>>
>>3115597
Where might one find such a thing? Looked up caffenol and looks interesting- apparently there's such a thing as beer developer too.
>>
>>3115691
Curious how you like the scanner- that's by far the cheapest film scanner i've ever seen. Do you feel generally good about it?
>>
>>3115796

so easy to use

produces exactly what i want it to produce

file sizes are good. 3mb to like 20mb jpegs

haven't tried tiffs or pngs yet but they are probably like 80 mb

idk maybe i need to clean better but dust gets in easily

would recommend to a friend / 10
>>
>>3115741
>just gotta watch your blacks
>but yeah dropping the black level and a better white balance makes a world of difference
racist af
>>
>>3115800
What do you expect from 4chan we're a bunch of wife beating white supremacists
>>
>>3115654
It should be noted that while rangefinders are great to use, SLRs tend to be a little easier for beginners since the viewfinder is a more accurate representation of what your final image will look like. SLRs can be had much cheaper too. If you're looking for SLRs, pick something that comes with a 50mm lens (most do).
do you have any recs on partcilar SLRs to look at? should i just google around & see what looks good?

>>3115660
yeah ive been looking at that one too. right now im lookin to spend <$200, just so that if i dont like it or if i dont actually get into photography it's not a huge loss.
>>
>>3115816
Whatever you can get. I'll list a few classics, but most SLRs are functionally the same (it's a box with film with it, essentially). Just buy what you can get, what works and with a good lens ecosystem.

Canon AE-1, A1 etc

Pentax K1000, P30, ME Super

Ricoh KR-5 Super II and any of the KR series (uses pentax K mount)

Nikon F series (notably the F2 and F3).


Just put '35mm slr' into ebay and see what looks good. Try to stay away from autofocus and plastic bodies, but a lightmeter is a plus for a beginner so if you can find one with one that's good
>>
>>3114821
New to film here,

Got a Ricoh xr-2 from a family friend and a roll of Kodak 400, everything seems to be working fine, however when I got the roll developed, it came out completely blank? I decided to try again and then next roll also came out completely blank. What could be going on?

The shutter works fine and so does the film crank. So that's out of the equation
>>
>>3115821
Completely blank as in you get black negatives, or completely blank as in the film you get back is just orange and transparent with no frames at all?
>>
>>3115830
I think the first time the negatives were black or over exposed, and the second time they came back not exposed at all
>>
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>>3115798
>>3115796

To continue speaking about scanners.

I have a Plustek Opticfilm 8200i.

I love it, quick and easy to use, has scratch/dust removal that works pretty damn well, and it is rather compact.

I am getting more consistent results than with my DSLR, plus it has zero set up.

The files it spits out are fucking huge though. 50 mbs for a 3600 dpi scan, and close to 200 mbs for a 7200 dpi one.
>>
>>3115836
Lets see a comparison vs dlsr scan?
>>
>>3115834
You should find out for sure which one it is, because they have completely different meanings.

If your photos turn out totally black or totally white it means you've no idea how to use your camera and you're using retarded settings OR your shutter is slow or otherwise broken

if your film comes out completely clear with nothing on it that means your shutter is completely fucked and just not opening the curtain at all
>>
>>3115840

I'll try to scan some comparison shots tomorrow, my DSLR set-up is all packed away and it is a bitch to set up..
>>
>>3115842
> your film comes out completely clear with nothing on it that means your shutter is completely fucked and just not opening the curtain at all

Either that or the film is beyond expired for being stored incorrectly. That happened to me with a camera that works perfectly fine after being tested with a fresh roll but had film loaded 10+ years ago and was forgotten in the back of a drawer in central Spain, where summers easily reach 40ºC+
>>
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Some recent IR snapshits. Rollei 400 IR dev'd in Foma Universal.
>>
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I like how this shit cuts through haze like it was nothing.
>>
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Do ND filters affect IR when combined with R72, like they would when shooting with visible light? Occurred to me as I was shooting here as I couldn't get slow enough shutter speeds to have a nice smooth water effect.
>>
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The last one ended up being my favorite of the roll. Still got way too many shit ones, I need to up my game.
>>
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>>3115970
>>3115981
What filter do you use? How many stops? What aperture/shutter? Or is it the developer that yields such high contrast?

Devloped mine in pyrocat-hd, 14 min

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>>3116003
R72, metered in visible light as ISO 12-25. This is the first time I've used Foma Universal and I had to guesstimate the dev time, which may have had something to do with the contrast. I just wanted less coarse grain than with Rodinal and it was the only other thing I had at hand, but you can't really find dev times for it with other films than Fomapan.
>>
>>3116013
I meter as ISO 12 as well, but I use a 715nm filter. I think ISO 10 would be more correct for both 715 and R72. Just recently got a R72 filter, but I need more film before I can test it.

I don't like rodinal with this film. Pyrocat-hd and XTOL (1+1 for 12 min) work great. HC-110 (1+31, B, 6 min) is a little high contrast.
>>
>>3115978
Why don't you try and do it on your digital slr on manual mode with the same iso and see how it comes put
>>
>>3114984
de duif symboliseert de huidige politieke situatie in mijn land. Ik kan nog heel veel dogmatische redeneringen gaan zitten opnoemen maar daar hebben we volgens mij allebei niks aan, daarom verdwijn ik snel via de zijdeur. Pim fortuin, lul!1
>>
>>3116144
Speak a real language
>>
>>3115842
>if your film comes out completely clear with nothing on it that means your shutter is completely fucked and just not opening the curtain at all

Or it means you didn't load it properly

Or it means you forgot to take the lens cap off (if not SLR)

Or it means you fixed before you deved

A completely clear roll with clear leader is a developing error. With a black leader it's a camera and/or user error.

Faggot
>>
>>3115766
Why's that?
>>
>>3116021
I don't have a digital SLR, let alone one modified for IR.
>>
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hey guys, I figure this is the thread to ask

My contax g had a bit of a drop and now the lens doesnt fire when its focused to below 1m

it focuses, but when you go to hit the shutter it just doesnt shoot

I tried the lens out with another body and it still doesnt shoot, so it must be the lens

you can shoot it in continuous and wind the focus down to below 1m whilst still shooting and it'll keep firing, but wont work when you try to start the shoot from below 1m

anyone have any ideas as to whats up?

pic sorta related
>>
Have any of you /fgt/s seen/tried the Lomography Color Negative F2/400? I'm tempted to buy a roll or two.
>>
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>>3116466
pic related, from the lomo magazine
>>
>>3116466
>We found some never-cut up Ferrania stock that sat in a warehouse for a decade
>Now we're repackaging this expired budget film into very expensive rolls and parsing this through our marketting wank specialists
>we know that even if we outright tell you this you hipster retards will still gobble it up
>>
>>3114821

>that messy as fuck job cutting those leaders

Drivew me nuts.
>>
>>3115035
How's it going at Amatrice? Media doesn't talk anymore about it after the earthquake
>>
>>3116466
>>3116489
"In 2010, we bought the last ever Jumbo Roll of original 400 ASA film from some renowned Italian filmmakers. Then, ever the ones to experiment, we left the film to age like fine wine in oak casks in the Czech Republic. Thankfully, our crazy instincts were rewarded — seven years later, we went back to discover that this fantastic film still produces refined colors with a beautifully unique tone."

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
>>
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>>3116280
Google translate: "The dove symbolizes the current political situation in my country. I can mention a lot of dogmatic reasoning, but I think I do not think so, so I quickly disappear through the side door. Pim fortune, dick! 1"
>>
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>>3116466
I'd never spend the money on it.
>paying a premium for expired film that was shitty even when fresh

Instead, I'm shooting 72 frames of Velvia 50 in a Canon Demi. The roll cost me $3, as it should being nearly 20 years expired.
>>
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>>3116571
Velvia 50 is the fucking tits. Insane colours and non existent grain (which should maximize your resolution on half-frame).

Here's a shot from a roll that expired 2004. The best frames from the roll were overexposed by about 1/2 a stop, so in your case a full stop of overexposure would probably be perfect.

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>be me
>looking for a new point and shoot
>sees Contax tix for $100
>looks up prices on ebay
>worth $200-$250
>great deal/10
>about to purchase it
>gets to the paypal sign in pages
>decides to look up it's specs first for some reason
>realises it takes APS film
>mfw
>>
>>3116609
want something smaller than my L35AF, but all decent compacts are stupidly in demand now

instagram users please just vsco for muh aesthetic
>>
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>>3116699
>Hurrdurr people can't like what I like
>>
>>3116700
film on instagram is the ultimate in conspicuous consumption. instead of just taking a photo of your coffee, traveling, conventionally attractive young white woman, old cars, you can say you do it on portra because directly spending money to take a photo makes you more authentic.
>>
>>3115181
underrated
>>
>>3116144
ok jongen, rustig aan..
>>
As an Australian it's annoying seeing you guys getting Epson V600's for a few hundred when they're $500AU+ here. It's cheaper to import them from eBay but even then they're nowhere near as cheap.
>>
>>3116722
That is the sad truth. Which is why people need to bail out of instagram asap and browse some photobooks if they want to break this norm.
>>
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Got this for 20 bucks at the local thrift store. All it needs is a little clean up and a new battery, otherwise everything seems good.

Oh also, which lens should i get for it? I was thinking about a 50mm since they're pretty cheap but if you there's something better for my money i'd like to know.
>>
>>3116855
If you get just one, get a 50mm. f/1.8, or if you want to spend money, f/1.4. Just spent a couple of hours walking around shooting 50mm exclusively, never felt like reaching for the 21mm or 135mm in my bag.
>>
>>3116855
50mm f/1.8
35-70mm f/3.5
and (optionally) a 80-200mm f/4

50mm first, it's all you'll need for a while.. and I mean a While. But damn that's a good price considering how much the AE-1/P prices have boomed the last year or two.
>>
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first time shooting analog..what did i do right and wrong?

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>>3116874

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>>3116874
Took a picture at eye level, so now the top half is full of nothing. Underexposed, or your lab turned up their hipster editing for you.
>>
>>3116874
You misspelt "analogue", and you faied to compensate your exposure for the strong backlighting and harsh reflection in each of these images, underexposing your subjects.
Then, to compensate for that, you fell for the classic digipleb processing memes of excessively crushed and raised black levels, respectively.
>>
>>3116507
I shot a roll of '79 expiry Plus-X Pan last weekend, I was very surprised to open it and find that it came with a long Leica leader right out of the box XD uwu
>leicafags so patrician they waste a metre of film just getting their cameras loaded
>>
>>3116895
i totally agree and have lots to learn ...now when you say i fell for the “digipleb processing memes” what do you mean? how do i change this?
>>
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>shoot a roll
>dont like any of the pictures on it
>>
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>>3116722
>film on instagram is the ultimate in conspicuous consumption
What the fuck are you talking about, moron?
It's a goddamned photo sharing platform. If I take my photos on film, and choose to share them, how is it not entirely normal and natural that I would put them on the most popular place to share pictures?

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>>3116906
Or when the film is ruined by unforeseen forces. Our out of focus.

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[Canon Sure Shot Max, Illford HP5]

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>Velvia 50

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>>3116722
Nah, yer just a salty cunt.

>>3116906
>This happens
>Have another roll ready to be developed
>Contemplate saving money and just throwing it in the trash
>>
>>3116895
>Corrects a variation of a certain spelling to a word
>Mispells "failed"

Other than that you're right.
>>
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>>3116906
imo you're doing good if you like 1-5% of your shots; rarely more than one per roll. keep going, you make it in the long run
>>
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mamiya m645
portra 400

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>>3117021
2/2

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>>3117019
why are you taking shots you dont like
>>
A lot of people recommend the v550/600, how is the v500? Found one in my price range ($220AU) will be using for 135 and 120
>>
>>3117026
>how to take good photos: stop taking bad photos

liking every photo you take is some real hubris
>>
>>3116906
That's photography for you bro. This feel is just emphasized for /film/ fags. Shooting an entire SD worth of trash is free, but you also have to work a lot harder with digital to get a pic you're relaly happy with (at least in my experience).
>>
>>3116906
Nothing wrong with that. At least you're not thinking you got 36 keepers and will now spam them in all their 3k by 2k glory, straight from Walmart's autolab.

But do note that there's a phenomenon where right after scanning negatives, the photographer is immediately disappointed in the scans, photographs, or (most likely) both. Look at them tomorrow, some good shots only become apparent in second or third review. Also consider whether you're rejecting shots because of things that could be perhaps remedied with some postprocessing adjustments.

Also,
>15 roll development backlog
>25 roll scanning backlog
>5 roll postprocess backlog
>>
>>3117033
But saying you're shooting whole rolls with nothing you like on it really just says something about your shooting style. You probably need more discipline when taking photos.
>>
>>3117043
>taking more photos is bad

sasuga
>>
>>3116560
>Pim Fortune
>>
Babes what's your best fixer reccomendation? does it even matter?

Using HC-110 for dev because thats what I did in high school lol
>>
>>3116727
>>3116144
/p/older

Does any one of you know where I can get a Philips MF colour enlarger? I want to print my MF negatives but I don't want to buy electronics which have not been made by Philips
>>
>>3117036
This. I've liked shots which were actually dogshit on 2nd/3rd review and found some hidden treasures in those I almost threw in the trash. That latter is more rare though, sadly
>>
>>3117054
I don't think it matters very much, I bought some "ecopro neutral fixer" since I wanted something with less of the traditional fixer stench. it works fine after dev with hc110.
>>
>>3117034

With digital, I kinda have an idea what will be good or bad.

EVF pretty much tells me what it will be before I shoot, and my photoshop/lightroom skills are pretty limited, so it doesn't change all that much.

Film can be a complete surprise at times. I will end up loving a random snapshit, but despising something I took a long time putting together.

When I first started shooting film I was very conscious of every frame. I am less so now (though not as free as I was before with digital), and think I have inproved a bit for it.

I have only a few complaints about switching to film, but they are minor.
>>
>>3115590

you shot it at 25 and should push it in processing by an additional 1 stop (1 stop over box speed)
>>
File: IMG_20170623_0032 smaller.jpg (458KB, 2248x3424px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_20170623_0032 smaller.jpg
458KB, 2248x3424px
Please comment on my contrast, exposure, Blacks, Whites, Shadows, and Highlights please...

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>>
>>3117111
literally all garbage muddy and grainly literally everywhere
>>
>>3117111
>contrast
not enough
>exposure
too low
>Blacks
not black enough
>Whites
not bright enough
>Shadows
not dark enough
>Highlights
Not light enough
>>
By the way, does anyone have any experience pushing Kodak Gold 200 up to 400 or even 800? Just got 4 rolls of it and I want to play around.
>>
File: 1500442300261next.jpg (489KB, 2248x3424px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117113
>>3117114
Is this a little better?

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>>
>>3117137
very slightly

still completely garbage in just about every way
>>
digitalfag here aka don't know shit about film. is developing by inspection a thing with color film? or just b&w?
>>
File: IMG_20170623_0040.jpg (392KB, 2000x1338px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117139
I'm using Ilford HP4 400 ISO, hence the graniness.
That one...
>>3117137
>>3117111
was an over exposed negative that I tried to work with...I am using an ND filter from now on. This is getting annoying.
Granted, these are all bright daylight photos that I am having a problem with. The fastest speed on this Minolta I am using is 1000 at f22, so the 400 ISO negative is over-exposed a bit.

This one is indoors - I think it was 1/60 f1.8 or f2

Check this one out for contrast brightness, etc...

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>>
File: IMG_20170623_0040-2.jpg (454KB, 2000x1338px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117147
or this one...

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>>
>>3117148
>>3117147

are you scanning this with a benis? looks like garbage
>>
>>3117158
no, I got a canon 9000f mark II
original tif file is roughly 3500 x 2200
2400 dpi

I am developing it at home - if that makes a difference...
>>
File: IMG_20170623_0040-3.jpg (255KB, 2000x1338px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117158
wait a second...
I just re-did it in lightroom.
This -May- be a little different

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File: IMG_20170623_0040-4.jpg (193KB, 2000x1338px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117158
another different process

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>>
>>3117158
See, I have been scanning my negatives in color mode, even though they are black and white. They have this weird orange tint to them after I look at them, so I go to the histogram and then play with the color levels until they disappear behind the gray. After that I adjust Blacks and Whites.

These last 2, I reset them and then just went straight over to the "Black and White" button, went to the color adjustments and made them all around +20, then adjusted for black and white.
>>
>>3117031
>>3117031
anyone own one/used one?
>>
File: sfmoma-hcb-07-sumatra-1950.jpg (331KB, 817x550px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117054
Moersch Alkaline fixer in EU. Or Photographer's Formulary TF-5 if you're in the states.

Alkaine fixer > acidic fixer
>shorter fixing time (2-3 minutes for C-grain films, 4-6 minutes for T-grain films)
>shorter rinsing time
>helps reduce drying marks
>>
File: 130702202907_1_900x600.jpg (64KB, 424x600px) Image search: [Google]
130702202907_1_900x600.jpg
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What us the best way to clean a negative?

Some of these look like they were put into their sleeves by someone eating cheetos.

A microfiber cloth helps a bit, especially with the dust, but some of it is like stuck on oil.
>>
File: v550-1.jpg (289KB, 2000x1238px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117180
I have one, did two real fast scans so you can get a bit of a picture

Including crops, I have no idea why they come out like this though. Operator error?

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>>
File: v550-1-crop.jpg (120KB, 315x315px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117187

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>>
File: v550-2.jpg (408KB, 2000x1236px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117187

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>>
File: v550-2-crop.jpg (101KB, 315x315px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117187
>>3117189

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>>
>>3117145
It's not even really a thing with black and white either.

You used to be able to do it (I'm talking pre 1950s here) because black and white film used to not be sensetive to certain wavelengths of light. It was usually orthochromatic or similar, meaning you could use a very dim red/brown or dark green light in your darkroom.

These days all b&w film is panchromatic (sensitive to all visible wavelengths of light).

I'm unsure what the usecase for inspection developing would be, most films anyone is using are well documented
>>
File: IMG_9833.jpg (671KB, 1000x1500px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_9833.jpg
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R8 my shit

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>>
>>3117214
oh btw its shot 1/30 @ 1.4 on a yashica lynx 14
FP4+ @ ISO1000 because light and no other film
>>
>>3117186
Naphtha

>>3117215
Is that a typo? Doesn't look like you pushed it to 1000.
>>
File: _20170719_203131.jpg (35KB, 598x233px) Image search: [Google]
_20170719_203131.jpg
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>>3117214
Technically gud. In terms of being an interesting photos 2/10. The light is nice...but its just a contextless photo of a do not enter sign.

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>>
>>3116855
a 50mm is pretty much all you need if you are a begginer
get a 50mm f/1.8 and you are good to go
>>
File: 6955668479_a70d423132_b.jpg (284KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]
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Sooo is the Fuji Dl-200 any good? I just one it from a Japanese auction site plus this other p&s for 20 yen lmao
>>
>>3117186
You can always reel it on a spiral and put it in the dev tank, then give it a good wash. Like 5 minutes under running water or doing the Ilford method. Just remember that emulsion becomes very sensitive to scratches when it absorbs water, so don't go touching it until it's dry again.
>>
Wait so if I import film from a different country will it get fucked by xray machines ?
>>
>>3117273

I don't have any development equipment.

>>3117219
>Naphtha

What?

Amazon gives me a shit music CD.
>>
File: DSC_5572-12020.jpg (188KB, 1000x1003px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117308
https://www.google.no/search?q=Naphtha&oq=Naphtha&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

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>>
>>3117308
http://www.kodak.com/kodakgcg/motion/support/people_and_planet/product_use/film_cleaning_solvents/default.htm
>>
Just got a scanner a few days ago. Plustek 8200i SE. Havent had much time to mess with it yet but I was wondering what software people use

And how do you guys get accurate colors in your scans? I've been having some trouble with it and having to do a lot of tweaking in the scan software or in LR.
>>
>>3117311
>>3117309

Ahhh, thanks.

Being in Japan, I haven't the faintest clue on how to find any of those.

Might just have to go to a film lab and ask. Hopefully my terrible Japanese is up to snuff.
>>
>>3117319
Silverfast SE which should come with the scanner. Gray point specification works wonders, then very slight adjustments in the histogram if necessary for fine tuning.
>>
>>3114869

Hi guys, I found an old Epson 2480
Do you think I can get good result with it ? I tried some 35mm film with the Epson software and it's not really good ( the final images are too small )
Should I put it to the trash or I am doing something wrong ?
>>
>>3117323
https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%83%8A%E3%83%95%E3%82%B5
try going to a hardware/paint store and looking in the paint thinner section, next to all the other fun chemicals

i dunno how "strict" japan is with chemicals though. california basically banned sale of naphtha, so the only way to get it here is to order online from out-of-state or physically go out-of-state and bring it back...
>>
>>3117147
The grain is acceptable if you developed in Rodinal. That one doesn't go well with Ilford's FP4+ and HP5+; or rather, nearly any other developer will be better. (not Caffenol though.) So this may be affecting your results.

Anyway, highlights are bright, darks are detailed (in particular the far end of the black dial at the foreground); now you just need a tripod.

Similarly, with 400 ISO film the highest settings you'll ever need are f/16 at 1/500s. Most post-sixties cameras with manual settings will allow these. No need for a ND filter.

Putting these two together, it seems you're underexposing your film by 2 stops and developing normally. That, and Rodinal, would explain why they look as they do -- whereas others' work, well, look at our fabulous polack's thread for examples; he also scans with a potato.
>>
last night i had a gallbladder attack. shit was ultra painful, and today when i was recovering i went to check out the near to end ebay film auctions AND THEY HAD FUCKING ENDED ALREADY REEEEEEE. literally cucked by a sack of bilis.

any c42 emulsions for this feel?
>>
File: 6x9Portra800.jpg (803KB, 1111x734px) Image search: [Google]
6x9Portra800.jpg
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File: 6x9Portra800-2.jpg (859KB, 1111x734px) Image search: [Google]
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.

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File: OM20HP530.jpg (344KB, 1103x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117147
>I'm using Ilford HP4 400 ISO, hence the graniness.
nigga please

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>>
>>3117448
>>3117452
I feel like you should be getting way more resolution out of 6x9
>>
File: edit2-mamiya-press-003.jpg (142KB, 1000x700px) Image search: [Google]
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boring and tilted

>>3117459
What developer did you use?

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File: EDIT2-mamiya-press-002.jpg (145KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
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I do this shot almost every time I visit my parents.

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>>
File: c200-web.jpg (2MB, 996x1500px) Image search: [Google]
c200-web.jpg
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fuji c200: eh, it's alright I guess

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>>3117565
it always has that slight magenta cast that's hard to get rid of.
>>
Just bought three rolls of Kodak Gold from Walmart. Should i put them in my refrigerator or i can just keep them on my desk until i want to use them?
>>
>>3116470
i know the photographer of pic related
he showed me the prints of this roll
fucking nice film. still haven't got around to shooting it
>>
got a olympus xa2 & a yashica electro 35 for $60 total. picked up some kodak tri-x 400tx and some kodak portra 400.

anything i should know about any of this? any particular advice about these cameras / film? never done any shooting before
>>
>>3117574
only really need to refrigerate old and temperamental film. Kodak Gold is a consumer film and will likely be fine to use even if you left it out for the next 15 years
>>
File: 30VHP505.jpg (124KB, 576x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3117560
T-Max Dev.

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>>
>>3117579
That's a pretty good find congrats. The only advice I have is make sure both of them are in working order read the manuals for both of them, also most importantly have fun with them
http://www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_xa2.pdf
http://www.cameramanuals.org/yashica_pdf/yashica_electro_35.pdf
>>
File: FM3ASuper10000031.jpg (209KB, 687x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3116723
Thx bae.

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>>
>>3117219
not a typo, xtol 1:1 for something around the 20 minute mark, only a few came out usable in the end cause i was guessing exposure and the contrast was pretty insane at ISO 1000 (one thousand)
>>
File: IMG_9825.jpg (857KB, 1000x1500px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_9825.jpg
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>>3117219
not a typo, xtol 1:1 for something around the 20 minute mark, only a few came out usable in the end cause i was guessing exposure and the contrast was pretty insane at ISO 1000 (one thousand)

another snapshit from the same roll

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>>
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>>3117643
and a crop of the 18 memepickle DSLR scan

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>>
>>3117348

Japan is stupid strict about chemicals and disposal.

But lets say I do get my hands on it. What do I do? Pour it in a dev tank, put the film strip in and swirl it around a bit?
>>
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>le B&W "street" photographer
>all photos are muddy, gray sidewalks, without any actual blacks

Rustles my jimmies whenever I see them on Instagram
>>
Anyone here got experience with loading two rolls of 120 into one reel in a Paterson tank? Getting bored of being able to do just one roll of medium format at a time, and haven't managed to grab a three reel tank yet. Do I need to put in more developer since there's more film? I'm using HC110 dilution B. At least the amount of liquid is the same for 120 and 220.
>>
>>3117646
That's not bad looking grain desu, as someone who routinely pushes 400 speed film to 1600 and occasionally uses XTOL for that. I feel like XTOL grain is often kind of "soft" which I don't like so much, since I'm going for that harsh Provoke vibe.
>>
>>3117661
Just make sure you get the first roll all the way onto the reel to avoid trouble later, and it's not difficult.
You'll feel when the second roll hits the first, or if you want you can just stop feeding the second roll as soon as you feel the end of it being on enough, leaving a small gap between the rolls.
Either way is fine, and you don't need more developer.
>>
>>3117590
thanks.

>>3117641
>>3117643
>>3117646
Nice. I never thought about pushing this film, but now I think I might give it a try.
>>
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What medium format camera should I buy for 350 Australian shekels

Prefer not 6x4.5

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>>3117721
$350 for a (assuming) larger than 6x4.5 MF camera? good luck.
I got my GS645S for $450 from Japan and even that was a decent deal.
>>
>>3117731
Mamiya M645s can be had for like $250 all day long

I'm looking at some Yashica-Mat TLRs around the $250 mark too, and they take 6x6 images

Heck I'm even considering the Moskva-5, which takes 6x9 images and costs only about $70

Just gotta think outside the box
>>
>>3117732
end up paying more when those shitboxes break though.
Yashica Mat's are alright though, depends what you're after and what you're willing to deal with ie. the yashica's will be heavy and cumbersome but cheap, other MF cameras will be lighter and easier to use but more expensive.
>>
>>3117733
Ideally I want a Bronica SQ-A, but can't really pony up 500 bucks right now. Maybe I should wait a little while
>>
>>3117734
keep an eye on the australian film photographers facebook group too, that's 95% people selling gear and quite a lot of MF gear.
>>
>>3117735
Yeah just posted there (with slightly more polite wording).

Bought a couple things off there and both have been below market value so I'm keening my eyes peeled
>>
>>3117737
just wish I could find a scanner in this country that wasn't 2x the price it is in america
>>
>>3117738
I scored a plustek off the afp group for really cheap, but the flatbed scanners seem to be consistently high priced. I really like the old Nikon Coolscan scanners, but half of those need a weird interface card and an old OS

Scanning is undoubtedly the worst part of shooting film
>>
>>3117739
finding it hard to justify $16~ per roll for dev/scan but yeah.. can't find a scanner for a reasonable price.
Found epson 9000f on gumtree but the guy never responded despite placing the ad numerous times, what a flog.
>>
>>3117740
People tend to hold on to scanners for bloody ages, I mean if you shoot film it's a buy once and then keep it forever type of deal.

How friendly are ya with your local lab guys? Before I got a home scanner I used to develop my own film and then give the lab techs a couple bucks for me to use their scanner quickly. They had one of those Pakon ones that sucks up and scans an entire uncut roll of 35mm in about 5 minutes flat
>>
>>3117740
You can get the Epson V500 for like $150-170 for the US, that's not too bad
>>
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>>3117738
>>3117739
>>3117740

Do ya'll not own a decent digital camera?

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>>
>>3117743
add $100 for shipping
and v500's are pretty average I've heard, need to scan 120 too.

>>3117742
no idea, I'm sending my negs off to rewind lab to get processed, I go to tafe so am going to try and suss out whether the photography dept has a scanner.

>>3117744
canon 550d but really cannot be arsed setting up a whole rig
>>
>>3117747
Macro lenses can be had for under $100, couple that with a tripod (which you probably already have) and a lightsource (phone, tablet) and you're golden.

Setting it up and then scanning a roll takes about 1/2 the time just sitting down and scanning with a flatbed takes
>>
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>>3117747
>complains can't afford gud scanner
>owns perfectly capable DSLR
>cannot be arsed setting up a whole rig

I can set up, shoot, transfer to a computer, and batch edit a roll of 36exp 35mm in <20 minutes. A roll of 6x6 120 takes ~5 minutes.

Stop being a dummy when it comes to designing how you set your rig up.

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>>
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>>3117740
>>3117747
I managed to grab a used V700 for $300aud which is a bargain, and it seems to scan 120 real well. Even V600's do alright with MF, you just gotta be patient and keep a look out.
>>
>>3117750
>>3117748
alright well what would I need?
a macro lens? any recommendations on cheap ones that'll work well for this task? will literally only be using it for "scanning".
and light source? buy a cheap chinese light pad thing?

>>3117751
nice, jealous.
>>
>>3117752
A macro lens or even extension tubes for a lens you already have. Light pads work well since they don't have pixels like a phone or tablet does, so you can just lay the film onto the light pad and put a piece of glass on top of it.

Also a film holder is nice, but worst comes to worse just sandwich the negatives between two pieces of glass
>>
>>3117753
I have a 50mm lens as well as the 18-55 kit lens.
keeping in mind I'll be scanning 120 as well as 135
>>
>>3117754
An extension tube kit with the 50mm would work well, just make sure you grab a set that has electrical contacts if your lens doesn't have an aperture ring and you want to use autofocus. Essentially what they do is shift the focus range, reducing the minimum focus distance to a absolutely tiny value (you can't infinity focus with them on though, but that's not a problem for you). With all of the extension tubes on you can be mere centimeters away from the film, which is perfect since you obviously want to fill the frame as much as possible for maximum resolution.

For 120, some people stitch shots together. So they take 4 or more really up close shots of each part of the negative and then stitch it all together in photoshop. IMO this is kinda overkill, but it's something to consider
>>
>>3117756
the medium format option does sound overkill.. what would happen if I just tried to use the regular 50mm + tube kit on 6x4.5 shots?
also which would you recommend?
>>
>>3117349
where is this polack's thread?
>>
I've been shooting colored film for years but only shot B&W film once with the neopan acros 100.

Now I noticed there are tons of them like Ilford, Kentmere, Arista, Rollei, Agfa, Fujifilm Neopan, Kodak Tri-X, Kodak TMax and I am kind of lost.

Is there any general for that?
>>
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>>3117779
Keep using acros 100. It's the best.
>slightly lower resolution than Tmax 100
>best exisiting film for reciprocity failure. 2 minutes with no compensation, then +1/2 stop up to 1000 seconds (16:45 mins)
>medium to low contrast = more shadow detail
>looks good in any developer
>cheap if you buy it on ebay from china/japan/thailand, $32 +/- for five 120 rolls

Tri-x / HP5+ if you ever need to push to ISO 800 - 3200
>>
>>3117786
>slightly lower resolution than Tmax 100

Isn't that a con

>>best exisiting film for reciprocity failure. 2 minutes with no compensation, then +1/2 stop up to 1000 seconds (16:45 mins)

Sorry I don't have any idea what is reciprocity failure

>medium to low contrast = more shadow detail
>looks good in any developer
>cheap if you buy it on ebay from china/japan/thailand, $32 +/- for five 120 rolls

I think those are good

BTW, is Ilford the King of B&W meaning it wrecks havoc against Arista, Rollei, Fomapan and other B&W exclusive film makers? Even tri-x and neopan?
>>
>>3117548
But it's
>1111x734

Also, portra 800 is very grainy. Has been in my fridge since 2012 or something, expired in 2014. But I like the colors in Portra 800 way better for landscapes than Portra 400.
>>
>>3117787
>Isn't that a con
Considering it beats Tmax in everything else, I don't see it as a con. And it's only slightly. You cannot tell the difference with your eye. Only with MFT charts and shit.

>Ilford the King of B&W
Ilford is good, but not king. Ilford, Fuji and Kodak (and AGFA when they existed) are at the top.

Rollei rebrands old films. Some are good, some are shit. I like Fomapan 100 more than Rollei's films. Only Rollei film I have no complaints about is Retro 80s.
>>
What do you think of post processing and cropping your film pictures?
>>
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Hey guys first time poster here, I've come for some advice

I have a Miranda Sensoret camera I just recently bought so I haven't had the chance to use it yet

And I have a couple of friends with a band that are playing a gig tomorrow

I was thinking of maybe going and getting some b&w film and trying to shoot the gig a bit, and then developing it myself, pushing it to an iso that would work in the gig lighting conditions.

I have quite limited experience in photography in general, though I have developed films at home before and have been dabbling for a couple of years, and literally no experience in concert photography

Do y'all guys think I can manage something at least passable? Any advice or anything other than "don't even try" would be greatly appreciated.

Pic tangentially related, a pic I took with a zenit-e with helios-44-2 lens on fomapan 100 and developed with foma universal I think

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>>
>>3117792
What about Arista films?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1190990-REG/arista_190362_edu_ultra_200_black.html

>I like Fomapan 100 more than Rollei's films.

What's good about Fomapan? Can it compete with others?

>Ilford is good, but not king.

What is the king though if its ok to ask?
>>
>>3117661
You've got two options: either tape the start of one film onto the end of another and let the latter push the former along the spiral, like an ersatz 220 film. Or you can push the first film down the spiral as far as it'll go, and then click the next one in there hoping they won't overlap.

Generally 500ml is enough to develop a 220, but if your developer has some recommended minimum amount per film (like 5ml for Rodinal), you'll need to adjust for it (since 220 has roughly 2x the surface of 135-36).

>>3117767
It's this one >>3113549.

>>3117817
Arista is rebranded Foma. If you can have it for cheap, go for it; it's certainly good for learning all about film photography.
>>
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>>3117817
>What is the king though if its ok to ask?
None. All. It depends.

In my limited knowledge, kodak, fuji and ilford have a higher quality control than others.

>What's good about Fomapan?
It's cheap, but still good quality. It's major con is it's horrendous reciprocity.

>What is reciprocity failure?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_(photography)#Reciprocity_failure

>TL;DR
After 1 second of shutter speed/exposure, film becomes less sensitive to light. One compensates for this by increasing exposure time. Let's say you, or your camera, meters the scene to f/11 and 4 seconds, you now have to increase the time to 10 seconds instead.

Fuji acros, velvia 100, provia 100 and provia 400x have amazing reciprocity failure. Acros and provia (iirc) need no compensation up to 2 minutes. Velvia 100 needs no compensation up to 1 minute.

Kodak's Tmax films also have pretty good, but nowhere near Fuji's films.

>What about Arista films?
Don't quote me on this, but I think they are the same as Fomapan.
>>
>>3117828
>Arista is rebranded Foma. If you can have it for cheap, go for it; it's certainly good for learning all about film photography.

Wait but why are Arista cheaper than Foma
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1190984-REG/arista_190361_edu_ultra_100_black.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/381214-REG/Foma_420136_Fomapan_Classic_100_135_36.html

Or are Arista expired Foma?
>>
>>3117829
>It's cheap, but still good quality. It's major con is it's horrendous reciprocity.

Oh I see so if I don't shoot long exposures, it's okay to use?

>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_(photography)#Reciprocity_failure

Thanks for this. Anyhow as a film photographer myself I rarely go past 1/15 shutter speed. Is B&W film better to use for long exposures then?
>>
>>3117828
HC-110 requires 6ml pr roll, at the 500ml needed to cover a 120 spool it will at dilution B have almost 8 ml pr roll, so should be good to go.

I have a riddle for all you /fgt/ers;

Ilford FP4 developed in X-Tol 1+1 in a Jobo at 24 degrees comes out foggy. Other films developed in the same tank comes out fine. All of the films are prewashed well.
FP4 from the same batch is developed in the same chemicals by hand in a Paterson tank at 20 degrees, and comes out fine.

What is going wrong?
>>
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>>3117849
>if I don't shoot long exposures, it's okay to use?
Yes.

Pic related is Fomapan 100 4x5"

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>>3117849
>Is B&W film better to use for long exposures then?
Yes and no. Provia and Velvia 100 are color slide film (positive)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Velvia

>Acros 100, Provia (100F and 400X) and Velvia 100
Best for long exposures.

Acros = 2 minutes
Provia = 2 minutes
Velvia 100 = 1 minute
>>
>>3117830
Not sure. Guessing that B&H imports Fomapan 100 in order to have brand coverage.

I don't know about this either, but it seems plausible that Arista may well be from a really large deal made with the expectation that it'll keep, and that there's a long-term market for students. Historically Arista 400 used to be Tri-X, which Kodak would sell for twice the price; a similar logic might apply. (it's Fomapan 400 now per hearsay.)

>>3117853
And it would've been guessable from the way that two 135-36 can be developed in a two-roll tank to begin with. Just not with the high dilution stuff, according to some.
>>
>>3117731
Mamiya TLRs can be had for around $200
>>
I have a vivitar v4000 (pentax K mount), and I was given an Asanuma auto-wide 21mm f3.8 (screw mount). What should I get for as a cheap, non shit, pk to screw mount adapter? The official pentax one is $90. FUCK. THAT.
>>
>>3117963
Search ebay retard no one can recommend you an exact adapter if all of them are literally exactly the same thing.
>>
So how do I actually go about metering for long/night exposures? Do I need to buy a stand alone light meter? Or is it just bracketing a bunch.
>>
>>3117988
they are not all literally exactly the same thing you insufferable mongoloid
>>
>>3117998
Mainly it's bracketing a bunch and bringing a cable release. Streetlights are fine for 8 seconds at f/8 on T-max 400. Generally you'll end up liking one of the shots you exposed for longer.
>>
>>3117999
They all achieve the exact same thing, to adapt one mount to another. Buy a cheap metal one off ebay ($1-2$) and stop using /p/ as your first source of research.
>>
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>tfw going balls deep into the menelta a-mount system
Picked up a 7xi yesterday. About to smash that buy-it-now on this bad boy. Going to buy a sony pleb DSLR because it comes with a whole bunch of sigma FF glass for half a g this afternoon.
>no brakes on this train
>200/4 APO Tele Macro G here I come
>>
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>>3118018
>not keeping his ketchup in the fridge
>>
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Think I'm done buying film for a bit.

Also post stashes

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>>
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>>3118022
Something something serious drug collection
>>
>>3118010

A-mount is pretty awesome.

Make sure to pick up a 28-135 f4/-4.5. Absolutely awesome walk around lens.
>>
>>3115195
I like the subtly that this is right before sunset. Or right after sunrise, that's cool too.
>>
Recently come to acquire an old Yashica MAT-124 from my pops, and everything seems to be in working order from what I can tell, but I have no experience with tlr's or any medium format piece for that matter.
The only problem I can seem to notice is that some of the slower shutter speeds will cause the shutter to stick for a few seconds or until I wind the film reel.
I'm hoping it's from sitting idle for decades, and it'll be a cheap fix but just wanted to get an idea if I'd be able to fix myself or if it'd just be better to take it into a shop all together and get an estimate.
>>
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>>3118010
>>3118042
NO RAGRETS

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>>
>>3118173

Nesto.

I have a Minolta a7 and Sony a7ii for my lenses.

Only lenses I have are Minolta 50mm f/1.4, Minolta 28-135mm f/4-4.5, Minolta 35-70mm f/4, and some ridiculous tamron super zoom.

Would like to pick some more up, but don't have the cash. I specifically want that 500mm mirror lens.
>>
What should I shoot for my first ever roll of 120?

Thinking Portra 160 or Ektar. Probably something slow since the camera has a 1/500th top speed
>>
>>3118192

Go to a Japanese middle school, the rest is self explanatory
>>
>>3118195
I have no idea what this is implying

I think I might be slow in the head
>>
>>3118230
>>3118230
>>3118230
>>3118230
>>3118230
>>
>>3115798
>>3115836

A few days late to express my gratitude, but all the same it is much appreciated.

Scanners/scanning seem to be a pretty big intimidation factor with me and i shot film for years, but after it got too expensive to do double prints of everything i shot i just developed the negs and put them in this big box that just sits there (or put them in a bag in the fridge and didn't develop at all- got like 20 rolls like that). Eventually i just quit shooting that much which is shitty considering how much joy i get out of it.

So, recently bought a Fuji X-Pro so i wouldn't have to fiddle around with every fucking image to make it look good enough to print since i loathe computer editing (i'd rather spend my time taking more pictures, and taking pictures i can use as they are, than waste what precious time i have sitting on the computer)- and i'm loving it. But i still have heaps of film and negatives that i irritatingly can't do shit with, so this might be it. Thanks again guise.
>>
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>>3115798
>>3115836
>>3118788

Also, picture related- something from the X-Pro.

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>>
>>3117721
go with an RB67, i paid about 320 NZD for mine with a 50, should be cheaper for a kit with a 90 or a 127 in user condition
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