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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

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Thread replies: 314
Thread images: 90

File: HipsterPhotographer[1].jpg (645KB, 1200x675px) Image search: [Google]
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We're all fucking hipsters edition

>Old Thread >>3103046 →→
>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>People looking to get their photos critiqued please include the film, lens and camera used to give some context.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.
>>
first for half frame masterrace.
>>
File: 2017-06-14 11.55.27.jpg (948KB, 1131x1188px) Image search: [Google]
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Just how hipster are you, /p/?

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>>3106445
I've just got a 500cm and a Nikon FM2. Not too hipster, I hope.
>>
>>3106445
I own a camera manufactured by the Lomography Company®!
>>
>>3106445

I just ordered my first rangefinder.

Hipster here I come!
>>
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>>3106445
I have a camera tattoo, so I'm as hipster as you can get, /fgt/

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>>
>>3106453

>camera tattoo

Sounds dank, broski.
>>
>>3106447
More like nostalgia dadcore

>>3106445
I print my own shit using developer I made from stolen chemicals.
>>
Gear question.

How do you /fgt/s feel about the Voigtländer Nokton Classic 35mm f/1.4? Heard it's softish and swirly and vignettes like crazy wide open, and there's noticeable field curvature as well, which sounds just like the "desperation f-stop" on my Jupiter-3; and these halfway lo-fi qualities are appealing to me.

(it's also like 300-400 smackers cheaper than the next "real" M-mount or LTM 35mm alternative, which'd cost more than my OM-system stuff put together. but nevermind that.)
>>
>>3106468

I have the 40mm, have only used it on a digital body, but my film body for it arrived tomorrow.

Definately a desperation f-stop, but not completrly useless. Also hard as shit to hit focus with that razor thin depth of field.
>>
>>3106452
Cool, what is it?
>>3106453
What if you tattooed a camera?
>>3106467
Cool, what developer'd you make? Where'd you steal from?
>>
>>3106467
>More like nostalgia dadcore
This is very accurate since both cameras used to be my dad's. He's running around with an EOS 5d Mark IV or something at this point, I really can't keep up.
>>
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>>3106475

Minolta CLE

No lenses with it unfortunately, but I have a 40mm voigtlander that should work.
>>
>>3106445
Can we see some of your photo notes? I wonder if you've come up with something that makes it worth logging my exposures like this.

>>3106473
Is wide open more of a Sonnar dream machine, or a "my god why do I do this to myself" kind of affair? What's it like from (say) f/2.8? Any sign of "focus drift" besides the usual depth-of-field split around the focus distance?
>>
>>3106475
>Developer.

I made some pyrocat HD, using my uni lab's purchasing system. As we ordered so much shit, a few very inconspicuous chems from Sigma Aldrich were not even registered. Also helps if you have a friend working in finance.

>tfw we have enough stock to make half a million devs

>>3106478
The FM2 is a weapon, a truly masterful piece of work. I have an FE, and Nikon film SLRs, especially mechanical ones, are in my opinion the pinnacle of film camera design.

The Hasselblad, never used one, but I'm sure they are awesome. I always see them being sold off, they are treated as eBay cashcows, no one actually shoots with one because they are worried it'll damage the resale value. If I came across one I'd sell instantly, and buy a Bronica SQ-A or something.
>>
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>>3106488
I keep notes whenever using a full manual camera and a handheld meter - especially with new films (to know how it responds to diff. conditions), new cameras (to make sure shutter speeds are okay, with notes on parallax, mirror slap shake etc) or new lenses (to know how they render at diff apertures, how they handle flaring etc).

There's not much to look at (or decipher) here - frame No.,aperture, shutter, meter lightlevel readout (sometimes for shadows and highlights) and notes on what's on the frame or anytning relevant. Basically shit that helps me learn from any potential mistakes/learn how a new cam handles.

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>>
>>3106468
I always recommend the Skopar 35mm 2.5 if you're on a budget and not after something faster.

>>3106500
Did that as well. Stopped doing it and also stopped using a meter.
>>
>>3106500

I wish there was a camera that wrote metadata to the film itself outside the frame.
>>
>>3106508
While it doesn't do it on frame, the Nikon F6 retains data from a shot and stores it in the camera or some shit.
That's like the only reason you'd buy one over an F100, F5, or N80.
>>
>>3106508
some MF cameras do that.
>>3106504
Still getting there and that's a major reason for doing it.
>>
>>3106513
Sunny 16 works pretty well for me ;)
>>
>>3106488

Probably closer to a dream machine.

With digital at least, even if wide open you can remove the vignette, and have a pretty nice image as long as your subject is in the center. I like how the bokeh looks, but I'd google it to get a look. Unsure how it performs on film though.

I did not notice any focus shifting, but I wasn't looking for it anyway.
>>
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I been shooting with a Elan 7d and loving the eye control. I read that its a hit or miss but it works for me all the time.

I been wanting a Olympus XA for grab and go quick and snappy photos but they are so damn expensive now. Hopefully I will get lucky at a Value Village or Goodwill.
>>
>>3106521
Elan 7e not d
>>
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>>3106498
I own a 500C/M as good as new cosmetically and mechanically. Since it's perfection shaped as a camera I wouldn't sell it for any reason. By the way, only pussies are so worried to decrease the value of a camera to end up not using it. I personally care about its cosmetic conditions but of course leaving it on a shelf as a trophy is not an option, that's not what it was made for.
>>
>>3106509
F5, F100, and F90x also retain EXIF-like data, fampai. There's a circuit design on the Internet for building your own serial interface cable; look for "knacks for f5" or "knacks for nikon" or some such.

>>3106504
Color-Skopar 35mm f/2.5 isn't available to me at the moment; I would've gone for that if it had. And truth be told, less than hi-fi performance wide open is what I've come to expect of all lenses besides Nikon's 50mm f/1.8G; so I welcome it. Unless the color-skopar has a ES40.5 filter thread of course.
>>
anyone got any cool stuff from shooting on 8mm?
>>
>>3106526
Real shit? What's even the point of the F6 then?
>>
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>>3106445
I enjoyed shooting packfilm more than any other format.

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>>3106535
The F6's point is that it's still being made (so available to outfits that can't buy used for taxation reasons), it's got a ridiculously good prism finder (reputedly slightly better than F5, if you can believe that), compatibility with digital-era Nikon iTTL flash, and a price tag to rival an used D4. So, compared to F100 and F5 in the used market, very little point. The F6 also doesn't take AA batteries, which is a huge bummer.

>>3106518
Cheers broseph.
>>
Is there any interesting/good film for shooting street at night time without flash? Colour or b/w, I really don't care.
>>
>>3106543
Ilford Delta 3200 at 1600
>>
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Any recommended places for mail order development?

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>>3106552
Depending on what you want developed, you could ask CSW in Chicago if they take mail in orders. They do 120 E6 for $5, and 35mm for $6.90 which is pretty damn good to me considering what other places (And the few I looked up that aren't) here charge.
Just keep in mind that they only do processing and printing, not scanning.
>>
File: my hasselblad.jpg (629KB, 1422x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3106524
Real nice, anon. I'm of the same mindset; what's the point if you're not going to use it? It's not a museum piece just yet and hopefully won't be for many years.

Pic related is mine, pretty sure I posted it here in /fgt/ a few days ago. Sadly the mirror + the rest of the mechanism got stuck a while back, so I had to hand it in for repairs.

>>3106498
>The FM2 is a weapon, a truly masterful piece of work.
It really is one of the most robust and mechanically sound cameras I've had the pleasure of using.

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File: provia 100f 10 minutes.jpg (96KB, 768x768px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3106475
I'm thinking of laser etching a camera, that's basically tattooing a camera right?

>>3106508
Fuji GA cameras do on the frame edge. They imprint shooting mode, exposure comp, shutter, aperture, flash used, and date.

>>3106524
I like you.

>>3106543
Provia 100F. No reciprocity adjustments needed until after 4 minutes. Picture related

Portra. Err on the side of overexposure and you're bound to get something. Extremely easy to color correct in post.

Acros. No reciprocity adjustments until after 2 minutes. Only 1/2 stop adjustment needed between 2 minutes and 16.5 minutes.
>>
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>>3106513
>>3106509
>>3106526

Minolta a7 stores it. There is actually an adapter to transfer it to a memory card.

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>>3106564
Man, I had no idea the more modern film cameras did that.

Pretty neat, anon.
>>
>>3106564
I think the A9 did too, right?
>>
>>3106572

The a9 lacked the back screen like the a7. It may have been stored internally or with a certaon data back, but it was not viewable in camera like the a7.

The a7 had a few features that just never showed up in the a9 because film was dead.
>>
got offered 10 rolls of 120 Portra160VC for $40, should i get them?
>>
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>>3106716
Yes, if it was stored properly. Best color neg ever made imo. $20/Propack is a dope deal

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>>3106716
If you mean $40 for the lot, definitely. Only way it could be any better is if it was 220.
>>
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All FP4+ in XTOL for 8 minutes
Fuck knows what temp edition

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All on a Yashica Lynx 14
All that have bokeh are shot at 1.4

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>>
>>3106460
>1/125
Truly the patrician shutter speed.
>>
>>3106749
I actually quite enjoy this one.
Also this >>3106748 because it almost looks like you're tilt-shifting.
>>
>>3106759
power of the f1.4 meme
>>
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>>3106445
be nice

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>>3106543
Tri-X pushed to 1600, or 3200 is at least as good as Delta 3200 shot at box speed, or pulled to 1600.

>>3106749
nice

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>>
Any Australians here used Rewind Photo lab?
>>
>>3106790
>>3106546
Thanks, I'll try this for my next roll. For colour I guess I could try my luck with Superia 1600 but it's expensive as hell.
>>
>>3106765
Richfag, be my daddy please.
>>
>>3106765
I'd sell 80% of that.
>>
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This is Superia 400 exposed at box speed.. pulled up shadows in the scan.
To be honest, I'd push Portra 400 1-2 stops, or give Portra 800 a try.

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>>
Asking again, has anyone here used a MF TLR? Thinking of getting one and would like to know people's experiences.
>>
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>>3106765
It's nice to have money.
>>3106790
Voooooooooooooooosh, you diiidn't reeead the maaaaanual!
>>3106813
They're a very affordable way to have a cool MF experience as long as you don't mind being confined to one focal and having a long min. focus distance. The inverter viewfinder takes some time getting used to but it's like riding a bike. If humanly possible, get one with some kind of focusing aid - microprism raster, split prism - pure ground glass guesstimating gets old. Anything in particular you want to know?
>>
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>>3106813
In addition to >>3106824 some TLRs have a built-in loupe that can be unfolded to aid focus. From time to time I use my Rolleiflex and usually, I'm pleased with the results.

>>3106824
I also never shot it. Got a single roll in the fridge, which I got from a friend. Same friend who gave it to me shot a roll of it at boxspeed (FM2+50mm 1.4) and gave it to me for development. The negatives developed in D-76 (1+0 9:30min) were quite thin and looked very boring, as they lacked contrast. Until today, that keeps me from using that one roll and at that ISO, I'm certainly better off pushing Tri-X as I use to do.

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Has anyone tried Shanghai 4x5 iso 100?
I can get two boxes for the same price as one ilford delta.
>>
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Shot some Rollei Infrared 400 again. This time in 4x5, and no ruined film.

However:
>might be the worst film I've ever handled
>extremely thin film base
>sticks to other sheets
>tfw ended loading 2 sheets on the same side. Twice.
>bends / curls easily, Will fall out of shitty 4x5 dev systems, like mod54 or similar. Worked fine with dip & dunk hangers

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>>3106862
Have one box in the fridge. Haven't tried it yet. The flickr examples look ok.

https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=shanghai%20gp3%204x5
>>
>>3106543
>>3106790
I would like to add on to this by saying that kentmere 400 can also be pushed to 1600. It is a little softer than tri-x but I like the tone at that speed better
>>
>>3106716
Oh good god yes. The Portra VC films were fantastic. They combined great skin tones with a decent amount of contrast and colour. The new portra films are just a bit washed out and meh by comparison. To me they're not worth the slightly finer grain.
>>
>>3106945
>To me they're not worth the slightly finer grain.
oh but they are (((great for scanning))). new portra was a mistake.

i think i will get the 10 pack or even more, guy has tons of it, it seems.
>>
>>3106923
>>might be the worst film I've ever handled

It's Rollei, what did you expect?
>>
Anyone have a MJU II with date they want to sell?
>>
>>3106966
oh wow, calm down there. rollei sells pretty tight film.
>>
>>3106973
By experience I say that Rollei produces kinda shitty film
>>
>>3106975
my experience with rollei film has been always a pleasure. give details so we can know what rollei films to avoid or if we need to call you a retarded faggot.
>>
>>3106973
Rollei is fucking grainfest.
>>3106975
this
>>3106978
I like the tonality of their B&W stuff but apart from that they are just not good and every batch varies in quality.
>>
What lens would you recommend for a Fed 2?
>>
>>3107007
Jupiter-8
>>
>>3106975
care to provide some details there?

>>3106992
>Rollei is fucking grainfest.
what developer, temperature, time, and agitation are you using?
>>
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Ok, question. How is it possible to have such inconsistent results with a disposable camera? I know, shit's cheap for a reason but these two shots were done the very same day with the same available natural light and while some are good, most of the roll was a grossly overexposed grain fest like pic related, which shouldn't happen with an alegedly Superia 400 film.

Could it be that the lab scanning sucked ass?

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>>3107013
This pic was literally taken seconds later in the very same street.

For comparison, I also used al Ilford XP2 disposable and almost all shots were correctly exposed.

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>>3107013
camera underexposed they aren't flawless.
>>
>>3106978
>>3106992
>>3107011
Generally the grain structure is not a pleasure to see in B/W films, film base tends to bend and the only film that I really apreciate is Ortho 25.

For what concerns color film I used their CN200 twice, developed in E-6 and both were purplish. It's not my fault because I developed one by myself and the other one has been processed by a professional lab. Using it as a common negative is useless, it lacks of orange mask, no prints unless you use a shitload of filtration.

>>3107013
It seems underexposed. Those plastic cameras have plastic shutters that can be unreliable. Also only one time and one aperture, that guarantee correct exposure with direct sun light and compensation provided by the flash when not in that condition.
>>
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I'm >>3106923

>>3106966
>>3106973
>>3106992
>grainfest
>>3107011

I've used RPX 100, 400, Retro 80s and IR 400.

RPX 100 in rodinal 1+50 = grainfest
RPX 400 pushed to 1600 in HC-110 = surprisingly good, but not better than Tri-X or HP5

Retro 80s @ ISO 50 in HC-110, 1+119 = very fine and good looking grain, not to contrasty. Actually a really good film. Also sensitive to sub 750nm IR iirc.

IR 400 in HC-110, rodinal and pyrocat-HD (what I posted now).
Rodinal = very grainy
HC-110 = fine grain, but contrasty.
Pyrocat = what you see, finest grain of the three.

Pic related was a little underexposed. Also pyrocat

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>>3107019
that picture is absolutely stunning, anon.
>>
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>>3107017
>>3107018
>>3107019
Blergh, next time I'll use them for their intended usage: indoors party shots with flash.

However, the Ilford XP2 one was nice for outdoors. Still a disposable but I got some half decent shots like this one.

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>>3106508
Fuji GA's, also I feel like the Contax 645 might do this.
In 35mm the only one I know of is the Pantacks MZ-S.
>>
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Using a Minolta XD-7 and it's a great piece of kit.

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>>3106809
>light source IN THE FRAME
>complains about underexposure
>>
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>>3106992
>Rollei is fucking grainfest.
Alright boyscout, I think you've had enough for tonight...

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>>3107014
>This pic was literally taken seconds later in the very same street.
>>3107013
To be fair, one is shot into the light and one isn't.
But it's just as likely that there's a little variation in the shutter. The first photo is under, not over, exposed.
>>
>>3107095
I think he meant the RPX films, which are pretty grainy.

Ortho films are some of the least grainy films there are. Not a fair comparison. I really like rollei's ortho film though. Shot one roll in 35mm, less grain than RPX 100 in 6x9. Not too contrasty either for a ortho film. I'd like to try it in 4x5
>>
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>>3106992
>Rollei is fucking grainfest.
This is retro 80's, and I believe it's also processed in T-Max Dev, which is the worst possible developer for this film.

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>>
>>3107007
Jupiter-8 or Industar-26m (with the focusing tab). Both are very passable, but remember that the Jupiter-8 isn't as good at f/2 as the Industar is at f/2.8 -- it's more of a dreamy soft mode.

>>3106975
I've used RPX 25, 100, 400, and Retro 80s and 400s. I quite like the RPX series. Retro 80s is good but has fuck-all for DR, really needs like a F5 for correct exposure. Retro 400s is very decent, high contrast high rez, but again limited DR. All of this in HC-110; I understand they're all worse in Rodinal.

Only push processing I've tried with them was RPX 400 to 1600 in HC-110(A). And it's really quite good, very linear a curve and consistent results across multiple rolls and developments.

And yeah, I don't give two fucks about grain. It's film, grain reproduces texture, line-pair resolution is for pixel peepers & people with lenses made in this century. Also my scanner is full of fuck.
>>
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There's also Rollei ATP, deved in Rodinal 1+300. Still very contrasty, but slightly less grain than Technical Pan.

Remembered I've also used RPX 25. It was decent. Reminds me of FP4+, but a lot finer grain.

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Cant find the previous thread i posted in but this is just an update for anyone who wanted to know what was up.

Purchased this Hi-matic f online for a good price in excellent condition however it was untested. Took the leap and
decided to purchase batteries for it and make a custom bridge for the battery compartment to see if it would work and viola it works!
>>
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>>3107108
>I understand they're all worse in Rodinal.
You are wrong.
Rodinal 1:50 is the dream soup for Retro 80s.
I get plenty of DR out of it exposing for my subject, but it's true the highlights will block up a lot harder than some other films.

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>>
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>>3107117
Heres a picture of the battery compartment. Ive used 2 sr44 1.55 volt energizer batteries and took apart and old xbox remote for the springs where
the double AA batteries would go to create a larger spring to bridge the contacts on the camera.

This camera originally used two 1.35 volt mercury batteries, that being said the voltage is going to be off with the new batteries but from what I've researched, if you adjust the iso
correctly, your images won't be underexposed.

Im going to be testing this out over this coming month so ill post results if anyone is interested.
>>
>>3107119
Thanks. That's a beautiful example you posted right there. Also suggests 80s on a cloudy low-contrast day.

I've been using HC-110 with it since that became my go-to dev, and wasn't at all impressed with anything I got. Perhaps Rodinal's lower max density (and maybe tendency to compensate?) is a good fit for 80s.

Only reason I'm playing around with a temperamental "weird film" like that is, I heard with good glass it'll make MF tier detail in small format.
>>
>>3107117
I have this camera. It's cute but as I recall the auto exposure was way off, maybe due to the battery chemistry.
>>3107120
I just wadded some aluminum foil up and stuffed it in there.
>>
>>3107120

They actually sell mercury battery adapters.

They take an lr44, lower the voltage, and make it easily fit into the compartment.
>>
>>3107143
yea i was looking at those adaptor they're ridiculously expensive and just for one.
>>
Haha oh man. Samefag from >>3107132 here. Seems I mixed some RPX 100 in with my RPX 400 and not only underexposed it by 2 stops in camera, but also developed it to a time that puts the film at ISO 50. So I've got two stops underexposed, one stop pulled film here. Looks thin but there's stuff there, could be recoverable.

Predictions? Guessing I won't have any blocked up highlights, lel
>>
>>3107108
Man, grain is a fundamental part of black and white film. Of course it can be considered a mean of expression in a picture for someone, a limit for others. For example I prefer fine grain films to achieve higher enlargements and fine details.
>>
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>>3106953
Buy as much as you can afford. I had a stock of about 200 rolls of 220 (yay photo studios switching to digital) and didn't need to buy film for years. So sad that stash is gone now. :(

>>3106971
Yeah, $200 shipped.

>>3107117
Nice dude!

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>>
>>3106508
>>3107090

Also a variant of the Nikon n80
>>
>>3106757
>Not exclusively shooting 1/1000 to compensate for your horrible tremor manii
Plebeian
>>
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>new film camera arrives
>go to load with film
>winder gets stuck at the half way point
>shutter wont fire, winder is stuck

Well, fuck. What do I do now?

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>>
>>3107238
rewind it completely?
>>
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How do people fuck up the first frame and why are they so proud to show it off? There's a whole Instagram page dedicated to it. It just comes off as incompetent and bugs me. Pic related, some random pic off Instagram
>>
>>3107242

Winder is giving a ton of resistance. I fear forcing it will break it.
>>
>>3107244
some cameras do that when the battery dies
don't force it dummy
>>
>>3107246
ment to reply to this
>>3107238
>>3107244
>>
>>3107238
Check batteries?
>>
>>3107246
>>3107248

Batteries pass cameras battery test. Tried a second set, no luck.
>>
>>3107243
I'm pretty new to film; what exactly did he do to fuck it up here? Not wind the whole roll back properly?
>>
>>3107243
Well, usually you take a picture or two at the start of the roll that you don't expect to turn out since the film was exposed to light. Makes sense these pictures would be of stupid shit. What do you do, take a picture with the lens cap on? Of course if you load in a darkroom you can usually get an extra picture.
>>
>>3107250
What camera?
>>
>>3107263

Minolta CLE

Taking it to a local camera shop to see what they say. Probably wont be able to repair it, but they will be able to tell me if I am being an idiot or if it is genuinly fucked.
>>
>>3107267
>>3107263

Camera tech said it is fucked, estimated over $200 repairs.

Wouldn't mind it if it was a camera I had used for years, but brand new off ebay? Yea I am gonna return it.

It is a shame too, the body is perfectly clean, like it just came out the box.
>>
>>3107105
Wow

6x6?
>>
>>3106561
Impressive shot. Location?
>>
Has anyone ever use photoshop to blend two films together?

Like use adox cms 20 for detail and used velvet 50 for colour
>>
>>3106508
Pentax 645n does exactly that
>>
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>>3107276
Welp, that sucks anon. Hope you can find another one soon.

>>3107316
Mie Prefecture, Japan

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>>
>>3107326
dafuq. show what you got out of that.
>>
>>3107342
I only just got into film and don't have a way of scanning yet.

Just wondering if anyone has even tried to do something like that
>>
>>3107343
oh lol thought you did that. sounds crazy, could work ok.
>>
>>3107093
Never complained about underexposure.
>>
>>3107305
Nope, just 35mm.
>>
>>3107276
>Camera tech said it is fucked, estimated over $200 repairs.
Lol.
Did he also offer to buy it off you, by any chance?
Have you opened the camera back yet?
>>
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I got really high yesterday and in the heat of the moment bought a dslr camera backpack for my Zenit. Hopefully it fits in there because I really need a backpack for my /p/ stuff.

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>>
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>>3107354
>2017
>Not just caring your shit loose in a bag dangling around.

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>>
>>3107354
>I got really high
Stopped reading

Stop being a degenerate
>>
>>3107353

No he didn't. He went hunting online, found a company that specializes in CLEs, and gave me their contact info. But since I just got it off ebay I sent it back to the seller for a refund.

And if you mean the film back, yes. If you mean open the body itself up, no.

I assume it is just some gear that slipped or something and it is an easy fix. But it isn't worth messing with since I can just return it and order a different one.
>>
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R8 this incredible shot taken with an XA and Superia100
I think it was f/5.6
>>
>>3107375
>I think it was f/5.6
>taken with an XA
How the fuck would you even know, you goddamned moron?
>>
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>>3107378
You can control the aperture on the original XA, it has a rangefinder mechanism rather than zone focusing. Aperture controls go where the zone focus controls are on the XA2. See pic
>>
>>3107378
Wow you're a fucking faggot. Learn your shit before calling people out.

>>3107375
Background sucks. If it wasn't for those people back there it'd be kinda interesting.
>>
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when the fuck will digital get to a point where it looks good automatically like film?

I keep being drawn back to film because my digital work looks like shit unless I do 17 hours of post processing, and even then I feel like it's a high-wire act and the photo could fall apart and look like a snapshit if I make one small mistake.

but I've never ONCE taken a photo on film that had that "snapshit" quality about it, sure I've taken boring photos on film but they still have an instant "magic" cinematic quality about them with no post processing and I'm not worried about them coming out looking sterile/flat/unprofessional like digital almost always does.

And it's not just about grain or nostalgia. there are very subtle variations in color and light and shadow that digital simply cannot see and it makes a huge difference.

Take this photograph as an example. it could NOT be captured on digital no matter how many hours you spent processing it. there's simply an ethereal magical quality about it.

but when will digital catch up? I'm not superstitious and I'm sure it'll happen eventually but I feel like people are in denial about the gap and it's causing manufacturers not to invest money in advancing the tech in any significant way. I feel like there's still a huge amount of ground for digital to cross before it's capable of capturing mages like this and yet no one seems to care anymore.
>>
>>3107405
That depends on a lot of factors desu. You might say that pictures looks "ethereal", but some others might think different - so it's subjective.

In my experience Fuji do a pretty damn good job of imitating film with their simulation modes. Also, there is a reasonable degree of tinkering in the settings to get the colour you want.

But overall I do agree with you. My gf shot a roll of Fuji Superia 400, and I did the same. Mine was developed in a shitty pharmacy, and the results are meh, she got hers done in a professional lab and the results are mind blowing. Every film has it's flavour, and a good lab goes out of the way to get it right.
>>
>>3107405
For me it's the fact that with film you can use built-in retina-burning flashes and the pic will come out perfectly fine and correctly exposed with natural colours.

With digital cameras + flash, most of the time people will look like a deer you're about to run over on a road at night.
>>
File: velvia1.jpg (1MB, 1016x1500px) Image search: [Google]
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first roll of Velvia 50. About 10 years expired so a little more underexposed than I intended.

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>>3107405
lifted blacks shenanigans is why people like the ``cinematic'' ``film'' look
>>
>>3107405
Your photo looks like ass tho, and not the good kind either
>>
>>3107405
because you have an irrational boner for film since you are too lazy/incompetent to get the pictures you want digitally in camera or post?
>>
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>>3107415

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>>3107428
desu I like it a little darker and moodier, somewhere between what I posted and your edit is more like what I would do for a final edit. It was quite a dark scene so I didn't want to make it unnaturally bright
>>
>>3107431
You pic also purpe af. Did the stones really have this color?
>>
>>3107432
They were quite red, but not as much as what's in the photo. I added a lil green cast to the shadows to correct it. Velvia seems to go quite magenta when underexposed
>>
>>3107428
oh god no
>>
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>>3107415
one of my lovely woofer on the aforementioned Velvia 50.

The colours you get out of the film are just incredible, the first time I viewed these on a lightbox I was blown away, even though they're snapshits

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>>3107451
And one of the sky a few days ago a couple minutes after sunset.

No editing, this one is exactly as it was scanned bar a little sharpening and dust removal

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>>3107451
Close that fucking diaphragm you bokeh whore
>>
>>3107455
(((no)))

if I'm gonna take snapshits you're damn fuckin right theyre gonna be bokeh'd out the ass
>>
How does pushing and pulling work, dev wise?
Say I usually develop Foma 200 with Rodinal 1:50 for 9 minutes, what should I change if I shot a roll at ISO 400?
>>
>>3107457
You would develop longer. How much longer I can't say exactly since I've never used that combo, but massive dev chart should have a time for it.

Pushing = underexposing, overdeveloping (longer dev)

Pulling = overexposing, underdeveloping (shorter dev)
>>
>>3107453
How can digicucks even compete
>>
>>3107459
shooting velvia is exactly like smashing the contrast and saturation sliders to +100 in lightroom. shits cash but I hate to see what it would do to photos of people

it's kinda comical how much it fucking overdid the colours in this photo. The field was a dry, light yellow and sky was quite a light blue. took it while motorcycling out in the boonies, god bless Australian winter
>>
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>>3107461
woops forgot photo

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>>3107461
Hey senpai where you from in australia
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>>3107463
Brisbane my dude. Another lab just opened here which does E-6 dev on overnight turnaround at super reasonable prices, so I'm shooting a lot of slides at the moment.

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>>3107466
Oh shit, cool what's the lab called
>>
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>>3107436
>Velvia seems to go quite magenta when underexposed
That's more due to the expiredness of your film.

>>3107461
>I hate to see what it would do to photos of people

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More Velvia 50

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>>3107471
They're called Racquet studios. They were the in-house lab for a photographic studio for a while and they've just recently opened it up to the public.

They don't have a storefront yet, but if you text the 'racquet hotline' on the contact page in business hours you can arrange to drop off your film outside their business. once you build a rapport with them they're cool with you just coming up to the studio in person. They're based in Teneriffe near Newfarm

Website is racquetfilm . com
>>
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>>3107462
But yeah, it's insane what it can do...especially skies.

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>>3107472
I did suspect that the way I stored it and how old it was affected what it came out like. Generally still pretty impressed since the rolls are 10+ years expired and have been kicking around in the bottom of my camera bag for forever. Not as bad as some Ektachrome from '94 that I shot that came back violently pink (pic related)

I definitely thought the effect on skin would be a lot worse. I've heard it makes caucasian skin super red, but your example isn't too bad. I've got a whole bunch of Velvia 100f sitting in my freezer, so I might try that out with some people shots.

>>3107473
>>3107475
>>3107477
>>3107478
I'm always impressed by just how clean slide film is. Even low speed print film still has grain if you look hard enough, but even when I do 200% magnifications of my high res scans all I can see is detail in the film out-resolving my scanner

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>>3107482
It really depends on the light. If it's soft light bouncing around during mid day like that example I posted it's not bad. If it's more towards golden hour, your get red people.

Here's 100F.

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What can you guys tell me about this film? I bought three of them + one Sensia 100. When did they stop making this film? Or is it older version of Velvia Or something

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>>3107487
Does it have a code or something? I know velvia is RVP50, so if you can find that code you can probably find what the film is
>>
>>3107476
Thanks senpai, I'll give them a try
>>
>>3107487
its a velvia predecessor. made between 1985 and 2002 somethng like that.
>>
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>>3107487
>>3107573
>its a velvia predecessor.
Nope. It's RDP100, the Provia predecessor.
Good film.

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If I buy some film from Aliexpress or HK sellers on eBay should I expect it to go through x-rays like half a dozen times to the point of being completely ruined?
>>
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My humble purchase was delivered today

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Please rate. I consider it as one of my best.
Chinon CX II
Helios 44-2
Kodak Color Plus 200
>>
I fucked up /fgt/.

I was using a camera wchich advances film itself for a first time and I put the film in incorrectically. I didnt want the film ruined so I clicked the rewind button thinking that it will leave just a bit of the film outside.

As you probably figured it out already I have good film closed in a can. How to pull the tip of it out?

help an idiot out pls
>>
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>>3107713
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/233869-REG/Kaiser_204132_35mm_Film_retriever.html

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>>3107715
hmmm, I could try it with tweezers but I am going to scratch the film
>>
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>>3107716
>>3107713
>>3107716
youtube film leader retrieval, you don't need to buy any damned thing.

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>>3107693
>European Licorice
>>
>>3107700
It's underexposed, I'm really sorry to say that you could do much better.
Keep studying and improving your technique, you'll be able to achieve what you want.
>>
>>3107700
It's underexposed, I'm really sorry to say that you could do much better in my opinion.
Keep studying and improving your technique, you'll be able to achieve what you want.
>>
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Kodak Gold 200
>>
>>3107713
Do you have some film rests around? Cut the edges, fold it after about 8 sprockets, wet it, stick it inside the canister (folded end facing down) and turn the spool in the canister. As soon as the filmrest is pulled inside the canister, pull it out again. Repeat until retrieved.
Alternatively: Crack it open with a bottle opener.
>>
i have a perfectly working canon demi ee17 EXCEPT for the shutter, which is lazy, it takes like 2 to 4 presses for it to work. any clues what this might be? speeds look and sound all fine, blades arent dragging so i dont think theres something stopping or slowing them, id say its more of some spring that isnt actuating well, but what do i know.
>>
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yea got some expired film
(ebay)
>>
>>3107869
Sure it isn't just grease that got on the shutter blades (check front and back)? Sounds exactly like that.
>>
>>3107669
Do you know when they discontinue the film?
>>
>>3107975
might be that, if it is in the front of the blades, i might just need to remove the front element and not dissasemble the whole thing, will check that out.
>>
>>3106552
I recommend Dwayne's in Kansas. They do an incredible job.

I can no longer recommend Willow Photo Labs. They are cheap, but they are slow and they'll probably fuck up. They have a new policy where, if you want them to write down what kind of film it was on the envelope, that costs extra? I feel like they are on their way out of business.
>>
Has anyone put some random lens like an m42 helios or whatever in an Olympus Pen F? since the 40mm 1.4 zuiko is fucking expensive nowadays i was planning use some other lens in its place
>>
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I want to start shooting film with this camera.Anyone got some tips for me?
>>
>>3108223
>he fell for the meme
>>
>>3108230
It was just lying around my closet
>>
>>3108230
The meme would be the one with the fixed lens. What he got there is undersireable trash.
>>
Is the PC sync on the YE35 universal? Tried using it on my Spotmatic and it worked fine but when setting the lens to the flash setting it would just default to bulb and not fire. All electronics seem to working fine btw.
>>
>>3106467
>>3106498
>developer I made
>not Starbucks certified organic non-GMO sustainably farmed caffenol
Son you have never even walked by a hipster on a street.
>>
Hey so I bought a Miranda EE-2 for a tenner today on a whim

needs a clean but otherwise looks ok

anyone any experience with these?
>>
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>>3108195
"Pen F M42 adapter"
Is it that hard to google?

Why would you even want to do this? Why put some cheapo fuckhueg slav lens on a beautiful little Pen F?
Why is some adapted lens the second choice after the 40/1.4? The 38/1.8 isn't that expensive. And the only redeeming attribute of a Helios is the swirly bokeh, which isn't visible on half frame.
>>
>>3108223
It has a small, dim lens (f4.5 or less on the wide end) and even dimmer at full 140mm zoom (f9 or more) - so you will want higher iso film to reduce image blur from camera shake with slower shutter speeds - optimally iso 400 or higher. There's a lot of iso 400 color films to choose from. It'd help if you google the camera model name and add "manual" and, y'know, read the manual. It'll have very beginner-friendly advice and instructions on how to load, shoot and generally use all of its features. You'll have to manually turn off the flash each time you switch it on if you don't want to use it. It's a perfectly good camera to start off with. Do you want to know anything else?
>>
Any good cheap recommendations (<$30) for a light table? Would like to start DSLR scanning but my phone is too small to do 120. Already have a lens/macro extensions/tripod.
>>
>>3108387
Your phone
>>
>>3108387
You can get light tables for drawing for about that much on ebay
>>
>>3108414
Reading comprehension my guy.

>>3108415
I saw those but people in the review sections say the grids on the surface of the table throw them off.
>>
>>3108417

Just get one without a grid on it.
>>
>>3108428
Was able to find one with an acrylic surface with no grid along with a piece of glass to go over the negative for around $30. Hope this works well!
>>
>>3108467
A proper negative holder would be a peice of glass. Less chance of weird reflections.
>>
>>3108493
>>3108467


I accidentally a word.

>A proper negative holder would be better than a piece of glass. Less chance of weird reflections.
>>
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Sup /p/ is the Canon AF35ML worth getting?
>>
>>3108514
How much?

Unless it's under 30£ I wouldn't even bother. I really don't like trashy, plasticky rangefinders.
>>
>>3108516
but muh f/1.9 point and shoot
Its in a bundle with 2 other cameras for $35
>>
>>3108514

Fully automatic with iffy autofocus.

Probably a great edc camera you can hand to a wife or stranger and have a good chance of getting a decent shot as long as the target is not moving and is well lit.

Actually quite meh for low light shots because it has an extremely loud beep warning for low shutter speed that cant be turned off.
>>
>>3108529
Would you be able to take it apart and desolder the beeper? That sounds hella annoying
>>
>>3108532

Same beeper used for end of roll. Rewind does not syart automatically either, so if you disable it and get to end you mighy miss a shot or two before you realize.

That is assuming you can figure out how to disable it in the mess of electronics inside of the thing.

The motor inside of it sounds like a diesel engine anyway, so it wont be a stealth camera even if disabled.
>>
>>3107945
where are you from? that stuff sells new here for literally £5
or you can just get fujicolour 200 for £1
>>
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Neopan 400@iso 200 (expired in 2005)

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>>3108786

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>>3108536
If you could find the beeper chances are you could replace it with an LED or something. Not sure it would be worth the effort but it could certainly be done given enough time
>>
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I need an actual negative scanner
>>
>>3108752
>Buying 110 new from Fuji in 2017

I wish
>>
>>3108786
>>3108788
>have godly looking BW emulsion with perfect tonality and a classic look that takes you to the old Provoke days
>HURRRZ GUYZ LETS KILL THAT SHIT BW FILM LOLOLOL OLD PPL SUCK AMIRITE? GOTTA KILL IT SO WE MAKE ROOM FOR MORE C U T E EGG SHAPED INSTANT PIECES OF SHIT
what did the retarded gooks at fuji mean by this?
>>
>>3108752
so you mean England or which country? I live in Germany and am desperate to buy that stuff!
>>
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>>3108998

Why do you need film when the Fuji X100 can do film simulation?

It is just like film! It comes with a laughably sofy lens, and a gimmicky sensor that no one supports the raw files from.

And it only costs $1,300. What a steal!

Love,

-Fuji Rep
>>
Still waiting for some insight about
>>3107671

Anyone?
>>
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>>3107243
because it's fun you uptight cunt.
>>
>>3108529
>>3108536
not the guy who asked but damn, you know your shit. please keep contributing.

can you recommend a p&s to look out for? I mean besides the obvious (overpriced) ones like mju ii, xa2, t3, t4.
>>
>>3109101
It's still a stupid fuck up. I mean, my auto compact won't start winding the roll if you give it a very short lead, and my SLR instructions clearly tells you to shoot blanks and advance film until the indicator stops on "1".
>>
>>3109107
it's not a fuckup, it's an extra (partial) frame. go ahead and follow your camera's instruction manual, but why do you care if other people want to squeeze in an extra exposure?
>>
>>3109103
Why point and shoot?

I'm not that guy, nor am I big fan of P&S film cameras simply because film is expensive and you want to get the best quality out of a negative. Using a plasticky lump of shit, that is unreliable, and gives you zero control, will drive you further away from that important goal.

If I wanted to get a compact, I'd get an Olympus Pen F, its a half-frame film SLR, but the size of a point and shoot. A bit pricey, but with time you can get a good deal.
>>
>>3109116
Either that or a manual focus SLR from the 80s with a light meter. They're not that much bigger than a film compact unlike nowadays' digital SLRs, in fact the body might be just a couple of cm wider but the rest of the package is pretty much a compact with a prism viewfinder on top and a short lens tacked on the front.
>>
Noob here. Can someone explain to me the significance of the camera when the picture is generated on film? With digitals, the more expensive camera the better the sensor you can expect and thus you get better pictures.

But on analog, the film is the one doing the work in creating an image, right? So what does the camera do except adjust the shutter speed? Of course the lenses are important, but I'm talking about the camera body itself here. Am I looking at this right?
>>
>>3109138
>With digitals, the more expensive camera the better the sensor you can expect and thus you get better pictures
>implying

But yes, the camera doesn't change anything unless it's broken and has light leaks or something.

But in regards to the final images, it's lens and type of film that make the image.
>>
>>3109138

Good question. In principle you are right, the camera adjusts the shutter speed, the lens deal with aperture.

But then you have the added factor of the light meter, which discerns the shutter speed, and is also intrinsic to the film speed.

The camera body itself is literally a light-tight box that fires a very precise shuttter at an extremely high speed. It needs to do this over and over, regardless if it's out of the box new, or 30 years old. 1/500th then is 1/500th now. So it's the reliability and build quality.

You pay much more for a film body because of this fact, if you get a shit-tier camera body, the quality of mechanical parts might not be up to scratch, and it might be a pain to replace or fix, or it's unfixable. A really good camera body like Leica, Nikon Hasselblad, is made with watch-maker precision, using very good methods. And if in the unlikely chance it breaks, it can be easily brought back to life.

The Nikon FM and FM2, are fully mechanical, and they are built with titanium shutters. They are so good and reliable that they are still used to this day.
>>
>>3109139
Hmm, that's what I thought. So what is the value then in getting more expensive cameras? Better build quality, good looks, historical importance?
>>
>>3109140

That makes so much sense. Certainly, the build quality and reliability is worth the price increases.

The main reason I asked is because I always got the feeling when people are talking about Leicas or the like that they're implying the camera somehow takes better pictures. And I always pondered how could that be. Thanks for clarifying that the build quality is the thing you pay for.
>>
>>3109148
No problem.

The Leica dichotomy is a strange one. I think the notion they "take better" pictures is entire subjective - because it encompasses several factors;

- Build quality
- Extremely satisfying user experience
- Very compact and impeccable lenses
- Nostalgia, (famous photogs publishing award winning pics)

They should not cost as nearly as much as they do, but the nostalgia factor builds a mythos that skyrockets prices.

Nikon cameras are relatively cheap, but have arguably been the foundation for war journalism and travel photography.

At the end of the day, it doesn't really matter what you shoot with as long as it gives you confidence (i.e.: it's usable, it's reliable, allows for creativity).
>>
>>3109144
More expensive will give you luxuries like weather sealing, faster burst mode, better noise reduction, more buttons and so on.

If you took the same image in a controlled environment like a studio with the same lens on a Canon 1dx and an entry level canon they'd look pretty much the same
>>
>>3109140
>The Nikon FM and FM2, are fully mechanical, and they are built with titanium shutters. They are so good and reliable that they are still used to this day.
Damn right. My go-to 135 is an FM2 that's over 30 years old.
>>
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>get new camera
>take it out for a trial run
>washed out spots on half the images

CHECK OUT THIS DANK LIGHT LEAK, BOYS!

Oh well, I think I found it, ordered some replacement molt and will do it up when it arrives.

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>>3109148
>I always got the feeling when people are talking about Leicas or the like that they're implying the camera somehow takes better pictures. And I always pondered how could that be.

It's the lenses.

Anybody that's going to spend $5k comfortably on a 50mm prime is going to need a lot of validation for the sharpness/"leica glow" of their photos.
>>
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Somewhere a city developer thought this was a great addition to the scenery.
>>
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Dumping some recent shots. Feel free to give me crit - rip them to shreds if you want.
>>
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>>
>>3109004
England, poundland
>>
>>3109234
>>3109235
>>3109237
>>3109238
Generic urban landscape. Probably >>3109239 is the only mildly interesting one.
>>
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I just got my roll of film back from Mpix after three weeks. I heard about complaints that they charge extra for their scans. I planned on scanning the images myself, so that didn't worry me. When I finally got the negatives back, they were all horribly scratched.

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>>
>>3109256
Yeah, they're not that interesting. They're shot on an RB, so I'm pretty much confined to a tripod. I want to try some streetish stuff with it, but I'm unsure on how I'd make that happen unless I shoot handheld.

>>3109258
dude wtf I'd ask for my money back/new film
>>
>>3109259
As a server in a Japanese restaurant, I know how irritating it is when someone demands their money back. I couldn't do that to them.
>>
>>3109259
Well you could just strap it to your neck, load a fast film, push it to 1600 or 3200 for night time and give it a go. You'll never know if you don't step out of your comfort zone.

Maybe do a test first with a cheapo roll during the day? Most MF cameras are outlandish-looking enough for normies to think you're a student or a pro so they won't mind getting photographed around.
>>
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>>3109258
Nothing a little Photoshop work can't take care of! :-)

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>>
Can anyone recommend a good spray-on film cleaner?
>>
>>3109275
how did you remove the line?
>>
>>3109300
I took my time with the healing brush tool. It wasn't particularly easy. If you look closely, and you are looking for the line, you will see it.
>>
>>3109246
pls post me a link, and thanks
>>
>>3109140
>The Nikon FM and FM2, are fully mechanical, and they are built with titanium shutters
Only the original FM2 has titanium shutter blades.
The FM is stainless and vast majority of FM2's (what are known as FM2n's) are aluminium.
>>
>>3109258
You sure it was MPIX and not your camera somehow scratching the film as it advances?
>>
>>3109218
probably got paid an unholy amount to think that
>>
just got me this puppy. how do i home develop 110?

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>>
>>3109591

like a bag of sand
>>
>>3109591
Get a 16mm dev tank or just bucket dev in a paterson tank.

And by bucket dev I mean just lob it into the tank loose (obviously with the center spiral in place). Won't be amazing results but it'll work, did it a number of times for 16mm motion picture film

https://www.lomography.com/magazine/241548-how-to-make-a-fully-functional-110-film-developing-reel or make one of these from a sacrificial paterson reel
>>
Recs for reasonably priced black and white film for shooting portraits?
>>
>>3109658
Acros
>>
>>3109635
wow that pentax 110 looks fucking CUTE.

so i just dip the film into the developer and then expect for the best? wont it stick? or maybe you mean use half spiral to make the strip run into the tracks of the spiral?

anyways will try it at least once. still, i looked to a lot of 110 photos and couldnt find a single one that was appealing, its such an ugly format, too much grain, too little detail, too tele-y, only downsides.
>>
>>3106445
>Leica M4 with Summicron 50 f2 rigid
>500C
>lomo lc-a
hipster?
>>
>>3109258
If the scratch is in a similar place on every frame it's more likely it was the camera. If not, I'd definitely get my money back.
>>
>>3109662
>rigid
Disgusting
>>
>>3109664
What's wrong with it?
>>
>>3106794
>>3106794
>>3106794
anyone? otherwise what's a good australian dev/scanner for 135/120 that doesn't charge a fortune?
>>
>>3109661
Pretty much develop as normal just don't put the film on the reel, just loose in the tank. Maybe do 5 seconds of agitation every 30 seconds to keep the film moving around in the tank. Don't expect amazing results

Maybe put one reel in your tank to stop the film from sliding up higher than the level of the developer.
>>
>>3109676
Yeah pal I've used Rewind, what you need to know?

They do good stuff
>>
>>3109665
Collapsible is the patrician Summi
>>
>>3109676
Doesnt exist.
Most aussies i know home dev due to prices.
>>
>>3109684
Racquet Studios in Brisbane is reasonably priced for the market. Same with Rewind.

But if you wanna actually do it cheaply do it yourself. I do B&W for about 70c a roll, C41 for a couple bucks and the only thing I send to lab is E6 because I don't shoot it often enough to justify owning the chemicals for it
>>
>>3109682
how are their scans? I get max 1800x1200~ scans back from my current place and they're pretty average, dev + scan for $16 a roll too whereas Rewind are a bit cheaper plus if you send 8 rolls you get the 8th free.
>>
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>>3109687
I don't get scans since I own my own scanner, but from what I hear they're good. Stephen who owns the place has been in film development and processing for years and has it down to a fine art.

Racquet in Brisbane is priced similarly and does good work, if that's any closer to you.

But desu broseph it's probably time to start developing your own film. It's stupid cheap, absurdly easy and you don't have to wait days to get your film back.

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>>
>>3109688
I should probably spend some of my tax return on buying gear to dev myself.. I even have some links bookmarked, but I don't have a scanner so either way I'd need them scanned.
>>
>>3109691
bite the bullet and get a used plustek or something. I paid $200 for my 8100. You'd break even after about 15 rolls of film, if you're currently paying $16 to dev and scan
>>
>>3109692
ebay? gumtree?
I need a scanner for 120 and 135
>>
>>3109591
This charity-shop fodder is far too much of a hassle to deal with. Trash.
>>
>>3109591

This is the only place tjat makes the film anymore.

>https://shop.lomography.com/en/films/110-film

From my understanding, you jydt remove it from the cartridge and develop like 135. You have developed other film befote, right?
>>
I accidentally the back door of my camera for a couple of seconds. I only shot the first two exposures so I didn't ruin much but still feels bad :(
>>
Probably gonna get memed but can I use expired chemicals to develop film? Is it like film where where it was stored and how long its been expired for effects it?
>>
>>3109734
Test the chemicals with a small bit of film before doing something that matters. With fixer you can just put the leader into it and wait for it to go clear. Should happen under 2 minutes.

With developer you need to test it with film that has images on it. So you could shoot a roll, and then in the dark bag cut off only a small strip of it and then develop it and see how it comes out.

There's no definite answer here. Some chemicals last forever, some chemicals become dead the minute they go expired (looking at you, Ilfosol 3)
>>
Why does film still come in plastic containers? What do you do with yours when you've done with them?
>>
>>3109747
I remember my sis using them for mixing and storing acrylic paint and other art supplies back in the day. I'm sure you can do something useful with them.
>>
>>3109751
I'm sure I can, it just seems wasteful to all this extra plastic being manufactured, most of which will probably end up in landfill.
>>
>>3109747
I reload most of my cartridges, so I generally reuse them for the exact same purpose a few times over. I particularly prefer Ilford's style of plastic can, find it much easier to open than Fuji's.

But yeah, with more kodak's stuff consumed comes more of the cans that I don't like so much. There'll be a plastic classification printed on the bottom outside, indicating recyclability; so the particulars of recycling mainly depend on where you are.

Regardless, with most plastic it's the case that as a remanufacturable raw material, it's going to get reprocessed out of landfill garbage within 20-30 years anyway as petrochemical type intermediates get more and more expensive to make.

>>3109739
Developer can also be tested on a leader. What you'll be looking for is darkening relative to film base, and retention after fixing. It's best to test first with known good developer, so that there's a reference point.
>>
retarded question – is 400TX the same as Tri-X?
>>
>>3106439
just shot a new short film

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DwnqnQhYKhM
>>
>>3109785
Current Tri-X is the 400TX formulation, yeah. This superceded the 320 speed Tri-X, which had predecessors in various speeds over the decades. There's web pages about the brand's history.
>>
>>3109747
t. ecocuck.
>>
>>3109679
alright.
>>3109708
will dev one 110 at least once i guess, then sell it to a clueless hipster.
>>
>>3109796
>sell it to a clueless hipster

It already got sold to that common denominator, (you).
>>
>>3109797
wow rude
>>
>>3109788
Wrong type of film retard
>>
>>3109798
Sorry bro, you're not going to sell junk, and seeing as you didn't know what 110 is, it's you that is clueless.

Please recycle responsibly.
>>
I have a problem, /fgt/.
I intend to shoot a roll of trimax 400 with my point and shoot, but since it does not have a dx code, my camera will default it to 100 iso.

What is a simple workaround to this?
Some point and shoot cameras do have manual iso, though they're hard to come by and I already have an SLR. I just want a trimax in a point and shoot.
>>
>>3109810
I meant tmax.
>>
>>3109810

You can make a dx code sticker.

Google it.
>>
>>3109810
http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-film-DX-code-labels/
>>
>>3109788
This is where you want to go: >>3102630
>>
the /faget/ is moving prety fast these days.

/fgt/ board when?
>>
>>3109900
Lel, it would have less than a tenth of the traffic of the smallest board on here.
>>
>>3109812
>>3109810
How old is that roll of T-MAX? Kodak introduced DX encoding in 83.
>>
I was rewinding some film today, and I kept rewinding, and winding and winding... nothing... no "give" or anything... I open up the camera and the film tore off the spool....

Hold me /p/
>>
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>>3106439
Hello, this is my First time on /p/, I found my Great Aunts film camera in my basement and took some photos. Got them exposed and they look like crap. They are pretty noisy and have this white smoke across all of them. Pic related.

I'm hoping its just because of the expired film, and that there isn't a problem with the lens or the camera.

I was shooting on a Pentax SF10
with a Tamron AF 35-80 Lens
and some really old Kodak Film
>>
new bread
>>3110120
>>
>>3110091
If the photograph is recent, then the camera appears to be mostly fine.

Film does indeed go bad after expiry if not stored in a moisture-controlled refridgerator or freezer, and especially films kept in cameras for long periods of time (several years) will develop not just fog (what you see there, after the lab did what they could) but also the exposures will fade. Undeveloped dyes will also expire and lose potency, so expired film has colour shifts and stuff like that.
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