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/fgt/ - Film General Thread

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Thread replies: 328
Thread images: 100

File: HF.jpg (406KB, 1200x800px) Image search: [Google]
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Half Frame Edition.

>Old Thread >>3099448
>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>People looking to get their photos critiqued please include the film, lens and camera used to give some context.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.

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>>
yashica samurai masterrrace
>>
Got muhself a purple mju ii. Barney-mode
>>
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demi+gold 100 iirc.

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>>
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>>
>>3103051

That thing looks neat as fuck.
>>
The Olympus Pen F looks fucking incredible and well ahead of it's time - but is it worth getting??
>>
>>3103103
i own the x3 and the xz2 id really love the x4
>>
>>3102847
Thanks, I'll try to look in that price range. And with heavy I meant heavy looking, because if I'm going to take pics in public I don't want to be "that" guy. Cameras are already a usual theft target so anything looking like it might have any extra/unusual value as an antique (like a TLR would) is a no-no.

So far I've narrowed it down to a Bronica SQ-A which is fairly modern looking and can be easily found at a fair price (a little over 200€-250€)

I'm also getting the Holga btw. If I managed to trigger some anon on 4chan bad enough to have him samefag and pat himself on the back it can't be such a terrible idea.
>>
>film is cheaper and for poorfags
I don't understand this sentiment. The body and lens, probably. But the scanner? Chemicals? Film rolls? It adds up so quickly.
>>
>>3103111
I've never heard anyone say this.
>>
>>3103111
literally who says this?

Not sure about you but i take my time when shooting film, i don't just go willy nilly shooting anything and everything, its an art form that takes patience if you have it.
>>
>>3103111
Depends on which person you ask. Nobody ever said that the reason they use film is because it is cheaper.

Within the setting of using film though, getting a scanner and chemicals so you have complete control over developing/archiving is basically the best thing you can do cost-wise in the long run.
>>
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>>3103109
SQ-A is a killer choice. Love mine
>>
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SQ-A or 500?
>>
>>3103123
sqa
>>
>>3103127
y
>>
>>3103123
>Superior lenses
>Superior mechanics
>Smaller
>Lighter
>The most complete system in medium format
>Better looking

500 all the way.
>>
>>3103134

Recomended lenses?

How do lens measurements work out anyway? What is equivalent to a 35mm lens of fullframe for example?
>>
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Some snaps

Pentax 67, Kodak Gold 200 deved as B&W
>>
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>>3103138
You have to consider the angle of view, there are three: diagonal, horizontal and vertical. Generally you'll have to consider the diagonal. Here you go with a complete chart.
First you have to decide which series of lenses you want. The newer the more plastic is used. I always recommend and I only use C series lenses, the first one. All metal and glass, basically indestructible.
Also: C lenses can be with or without the T* treatment, the chrome ones have no T* (except a rare transition series), black ones have it. When buying wide angles lenses always choose black ones, when buying over the 80mm you can buy whatever you want.
You'll have to start with the normal, 80mm f/2.8 lens (equivalent to a 50mm in 35mm), it's not too long, not too short focal length, also compact.
Then you can buy the 50mm and the 150mm. Those three lenses form the basic perfect kit.
>>
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>>3103144
Forgot the chart
>>
NEW SLIDE FILM

https://www.instagram.com/p/BV1zH40F3KM/
>>
>>3103151

Hope it is good enough to be Provia 400x replacement.

Stocks are expiring soon.
>>
>>3103145
>>3103144

Thanks. Looks like 80mm is about what I want. Been shooting 50mm on ny 135 camera pretty much exclusively.

As for bodies, I see there are different versions of the 500. Is a specific one better?
>>
>>3103156
It depends, I personally prefer the 500C/M, it's older, yes, but it's also completely mechanical, with better construction and it's reliable as fuck.
After Victor Hasselblad death the company started producing better performing cameras but not considering that those cameras eventually in the future would have requested a lot of work to come back in working order. The example that fits perfectly is the Palpas internal coating, now most cameras built in the 80's are unusable due to the degradation of this anti reflection black coating. You could also consider the 500C but it's more likely to need a good CLA, and also you can't change the focusing screen easily and the default one is shit. Also it only costs around 70 euros less than the C/M.
Be careful, there are also some transition cameras branded as 500C but they are 500C/Ms, their serial starts with UV that means 1971 as year of production.
>>
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>>3103134
SQ-A and 500 are nearly identical (within a few grams and mm of each other).
>>
>>3103151
>https://www.instagram.com/p/BV1zH40F3KM/
>soft
>warm
>real ISO 200
It's just fucking CR200 repackaged, you damned cuck.
>>
>>3103151
>slightly visible grain
cr200 grainfest confirmed. hopefully its a newer batch so its not that piss yellowed?
>>
>>3103123
SQ-A: cheaper, nice wide angle lenses.
500: more expensive, stellar 80mm.
>>
>>3103151
Cool package design, Rollei slides are generally shit. Let's see.
>>
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Have some Velvia 50

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>>3103161

How much should I be looking at for a C/M with an 80mm?

Looks to be about 140000円 on ebay, but i doubt that is the best place.
>>
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From recent trip

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>>3103249

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>>3103251

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>>
>>3103246
I don't know the quotations in Japan.
In Europe you're buying at a really good price if you spend 400-450 euros. 550 is the honest price.
>>
>>3103270

That is roughly 70000円.

So that is C/M body, film holder, non-metered viewfinder, and 80mm lens?

I might go check out sone local camera shops and see what I can find. Seems like old film stuff is quite expensive here. I had to hunt to find the 135 slr I wanted, and the price was kinda high compared to the states.
>>
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There's skylight filter for warming effect. Is there a name for a cooling filter for use indoor to color balance film meant for daylight?

pic related

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>>
>>3103278

80A
>>
>>3103273
Yes, A12/A24 film back, waist level finder, 80mm Planar C T* and 500C/M body.
Also try to buy bodies built between 1971 and 1979 (so serial numbers starting with U). You should check on internetional sellers on eBay.
I paid for my whole kit (2 backs, one body, three lenses and several others accessories) less than 700 euros but I bought every piece one at a time, and I used to constantly look on various online shops to find the best gear at the lowest prices.
>>
>>3103061
left could stand alone
>>
>>3103282
Thanks. I also see 82A, does it work similarly but to lesser effect?
>>
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i've jut got my very first roll developped. i like the pictures however on most of them there is this red stripe on the left, can anyone tell me how to get rid of that on the next rolls?

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>>
>>3103297
replace the light seals in your camera
>>
>>3103298
thank you my friend, I'll do that
>>
>>3103297
Where did you take this picture?
What camera did you use?
Yep, light seals have to be changed.
>>
>>3103306
I took it in Verona with a Minolta X-370s
>>
>dem chaika lightleaks
pretty sure i got them fixed, but havent put another roll through the camera yet.

and the frame counter stopped working :(
>>
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Yashica T3, Tri-X @ 6400 in straight D-76 for 12 minutes at 22 celsius.

Came out pretty well.

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>>
>>3103323
Ok I was right thinking it was Italy.
Are you Italian?
Fellow from Rome here.
>>
>>3103105
bought one recently, it´s really fun to shoot, but the viewfinder is tiny and extremely dark (especially with the ft), film often gets stuck while rewinding, some of them got ripped apart (never happened to me on any other camera)
>>
>>3103331
well, kind of, I'm an immigrant living in Verona, but I'm going to get the Italian citizenship in a couple of years, I've just started the procedure, hope I don't get expelled until then

Roma Ladrona!
>>
>>3103345
Well, porco dio, then!
Where are you from?
>>
>>3103350

I'm from the glorious Republic of Moldova my diocane friend!
>>
I have a Canon A1 and a Fed 2. What lenses would you recommend?
>>
>>3103378
Oooh cool madonnaladra!
Many friends from there.
>>3103394
Canon 50mm f/1.4 SSC, relatively economic and really high quality, best lens to start with. I'd recommend to buy the breachlock version.
>>
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>>3103046
So I got some old (not expired) iso200 120 AGFA from a local SnappySnaps.

Shot a test role on a newly purchased Yashica 124g. Dropped it off at local family-run developer.

They process and scan 35 for £3 a roll and 120 for £5, they've have never let me down before.

So when they emailed me back the film I was quite surprised.

What the hell has happened?

Can anyone shed any light?

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>>
What's the best film camera to take pictures at parties/clubs with friends?
I've been taking Fuji Quicksnap Fashion's or a shitty Minolta Riva zoom with me for a while but I want a more solid camera without it being very big or bulky.

Olympus Mju II seems a solid choice but that has seen a bit of hipster tax recently.

Any other cameras?
>>
>>3103448
Almost literally any cheap 35mm not-toy camera with a Superia 400 roll will take decent pics if you're used to the quicksnap fashion and that includes raiding your parents' attic for the old family vacation camera. You'll most likely be able to snatch anything for peanuts in your local goodwill or any other kind of second hand shop.

To be honest, if there's a chance of spills and being dropped to the floor and accidentally kicked around I'd stick with the disposables.
>>
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Just scanned my first few rolls I ever shot. A lot of them are bad shots because of my and my lack of experience, but a lot of them are very dull and soft looking. Just wanna know if it's my shooting or what that's causing this.
>>
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>>3103460
Both this and the first were shot on fp4+
>>
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>>3103464
This was one of the very few that I thought turned out pretty decent for my first time shooting. Shot this on tri-x 400
>>
>>3103460
Part of that looks like you shot at a very wide aperture, so not much of the scene is in focus. Part of it is low contrast from your scan, which you can fix in any photo editor.

>>3103464
This one is soft, but not quite in the same way. Looks like a bad scan.

>>3103466
This is the best of the three, technically.
>>
>>3103471
Also my first time scanning so I'm still playing around with the settings, and none of these have been edited after scanning.
>>
>>3103459
The problem is I'm used to my F5 and M6, so a certain standard of quality.
I pretty much have no knowledge of point & shoot film cameras apart from Yashica T4 = good. I've always avoided them as the pest.

The Riva is kind of nice with it's 28mm wide end + sliding cover but it's flash is overpowering and the viewfinder the size of an ants thimble.
>>
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Anyone here ever dabbled in double exposures? How did you meter for them? (examples would be cool)

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>>3103293
Yep. Strongest to weakest 80 > 81 >82. Put an A at the end and it's a cooling filter. Put a B at the end and it's a warming filter.

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>>3103478

Right here my dude, I shot this on my Nikon F100 with portraits 160
>>
>>3103478

Also a good way to meter for double exposure is to , exposure one stop lower with each exposure you make

For example I took the photo of the girl and exposed for the sky to get the silhouette so that the brighter portions of the secondary exposure would come through the silhouette
>>
>>3103123
500
always feat like the SQ-A was on the verge of breaking, they just don't seem to be as solid as the Blad
>>
>>3103285

Well thanks, Anon.

I have some more reading to do about using the body and shooting MF, but I will probably pick one up.

I will most likely keep my 135 camera for everyday shooting, but there are a handful of pictures I want to use something better on.
>>
>>3103634

might as well go at least 4x5
>>
HP5 is shit!
SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT
>>
Taking out a canon ae1 tomorrow out to lake Michigan with me on a camping trip for a few days. I have 3 rolls of tri-x 400 and a roll of velvia 100 that has 6-8 shots accidentally exposed to light. Just wondering if there are any tips to make sure I nail manual focus
>>
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Expired fuji reala, I think...

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>>3103736
Use the split focus prism. Dead simple.

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>>3103739
Anyone have any idea what the blue line might be from? im guessing it was a scanning issue.

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>>3103736
>>3103741
This. The split prism on the AE-1 and A-1 make missing focus pretty hard unless you're legally blind.
When in doubt though, stop the camera down and increase the exposure time or push the film a bit.
>>
>>3103741
>>3103745
Alright thanks guys, just nervous about first time manual only on a nice trip.
>>
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>>3103055
Neat
I picked this up for a cool 25 cents over the weekend.
>>
>>3103742

That is one dirty ass negative.
>>
>>3103776
for you
>>
>>3103776
Yeah a lot of my negs need some cleaning and re-scanning desu
>>
>>3103557
Love this
>>
>>3103784

That is a nice thin about dedicated negative scanners, a lot of them can automatically clear dirt and dust.
>>
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What are the best C-41 chemicals to develop colour negatives with? Gonna develop my own negs for the first time need some recommendation on chemicals.
>>
>>3103789
>What are the best C-41 chemicals
Fuji.
>>
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>>3103425
the fuck even is this meant to be

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>>
>>3103789
I had the best results with digibase so far because I like to develop at room temperature and they do that really well, less color casts and better contrast than every other kit I tried at 25°C. Also I feel like it lasts a little longer, maybe because it's not a blix but two separate baths
>>
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I'm looking for a good manual focus camera.

I keep reading the FA is a good choice, anyone have experience with one?

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>>
>>3103817
Its a van with a window cover, at night, under a streetlamp.
>>
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Just got back the first roll I shot with the Minolta X300 I bought from eBay and so far it's perfect. No light leaks, dirt reflecting in photos or light metering errors in auto mode. Maybe 400 speed film is not the most suited for a scorching 100% sunny day at noon (pic related) but so far I'm happy I didn't end up buying a dud.

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>>
>>3103846

It is a wonderful camera.

What lens you using?
>>
>>3103834
Get an FE. It'll knock your socks off!
>>
>>3103847
The 50mm 1.7 kit lens.
>>
>>3103849

I hear the 50mm f/1.4 is the best, but all of them are pretty good.

I have been using the f/2 myself lately.

If you can, get your hands on a 35-70 f/3.5 Macro.

Pretty much the only film era zoom worth grabbing.
>>
>>3103327
Omni?
Dig this one a lot.
>>
Thoughts on Rollei RPX 400? It's cheaper than Tri-X and looks just as nice from what I've seen online.
>>
>>3103927
looks fricken grainy.
>>
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>>3103927
It's grainier at stock speed than Tri-X is at 800. Still better than Foma though, I like to use it on shitty cheapo cameras like CMEHA to shoot in shitty conditions like pic related.
>>
>>3103927
RPX 400 is fucking beautiful at 1600 developed in HC-110. It's got a "cheap film" reputation undeservedly: it's a real head to head competitor to HP5+ and Tri-X. (but not the discontinued Neopan 400. shit was magic yo.)

Note that its character is substantially different from HP5+ and Tri-X; the former being grittier and the latter having a steeper, newspaperlike contrast. In comparison RPX 400 is more neutral, lacking both the characteristic grit and having a more linear density curve. It'll definitely look different is what I'm saying, but it's a good film.
>>
>>3103924
oui.
<3

>>3103846
X300's are lovely, also less prone to leaking caps.
>>
>>3103341
today I shot another roll through my pen ft, and it got stuck again while rewinding, happens almost every time, never happened to me on another camera. Any other pen users here with similar issues?
Will post some pics after developpingl
>>
>>3103933
pic shot at box speed or pushed?
>>
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Delta 3200 @ 6400

Make or break?

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Rip my trip this week :'(
>>
>>3104011
Low light = bad light. The film and scanner did well in this case, but in order to have detail in all zones one must have light in all zones. I've found Delta 3200 best for stopping action in scenes of EV7 thru 10; at 3200 I can have f/2.8 at 1/500, to f/4 at 1/2000, which ends up far nicer than trying to shoot action at 400 speed.
>>
>>3104013
cool blog
>>
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Fuji Superia X-Tra 400 processed as B&W.

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>>
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>>3104040

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>>
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>>3104041

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>>
>>3104040
Could you provide steps?

I love this.
>>
>>3104045
Got my photos developed at a local lab and asked for them to be B&W and pushed one stop. Scanned them as color, upped the saturation in photoshop, along with vibrancy and contrast (to get the rougher look), and then completely desaturated.
>>
>>3103997

The Chinese built X-700s are the wordt when it comes to caps.

Most everything else is okay. XD is the toughest/best hands down though.
>>
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This just arrived and holy shit that fucking viewfinder and the focus assist is absolutely awesome. This is my first SLR and I never thought manual focusing was meant to be this easy.

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>>
>>3104031
I only post in /fgt/ friendo
>>
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and now the color ones.

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>>
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>>3104082

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>>
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>>3104083

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>>
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>>3104067
That unit looks clean as fuck.
Also the 50 1.7? nice.

See if you can get a MD 28 mm f/2.8, you can find them for 20 bucks or so and they are sharp, contrasty and lovely especially for the price.

I should use my Minolta's more, I only still use them for the bokehmaster lens nowadays.

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>>
>>3104089
crappier md iii.
shit plastic.
md ii is the best version.
>>
>>3103297
what camera did you use?
>>
>>3103477
Contax G series? Interchangable lens autofocus auto-everything rangefinders. High quality machines with great glass
>>
>>3104048
How much money did the custom B&W lab dev cost? How much do they charge for standard C41 dev?
>>
>>3104120
1.) They are not rangefinders.

2.) Their AF is pretty shit, and they would be terrible for parties/clubs.

>>3103477
T4 is shit. The AF is very unreliable and inaccurate. The MJU II is good, if you can find one for <$100 it's a good buy. The weatherproofing is perfect for parties/clubs.

But like anon said, any point and shoot with a built in flash will work when it comes down to it.
>>
>>3104131
What film cameras' autofocus isn't shit in low light? Apart from very late stage mid-2000s high end SLRs?
>>
>>3104131
>1.) They are not rangefinders.

they actually are though
>>
>>3104125
Custom B&W was the standard pay, only difference is they do B&W developing on Thursdays and Fridays, so I had to wait a bit.
C41 dev (and any 35mm dev) was $6.44. I love the place.
>>
>>3104167

That is roughly what it costs here, and dev only takes an hour or so. Same with prints too I think.

Scans take an extra day.

e6 takes like three, they send them somewhere else to get done.
>>
>>3104175
I don't mind having to wait a day or a few for Dev/Prints etc, mostly since I usually drop them off an hour or so before closing time. You'd be surprised how popular film is here. I've never been to the place and seen the film machines off.
>>
>>3104132
Never had trouble shooting at night with a MJU II.

>>3104133
Calling the G series a rangefinder car is like calling a Porsche with a PDK a manual.

Sure the G series uses a rangefinder, but it uses a rangefinder to autofocus. There no rangefinder experience.

The PDK Porsche has a clutch in the transmission, but that doesn't mean your using your left foot to switch gears.
>>
>>3104132
Don't know about the T4, but the Mju II uses IR to focus. Could focus correctly and just as fast in complete darkness.
(Makes shooting through a window impossible though)
>>
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Story time!

>be me
>go shoot some x-pro 120 on my old 6X9 folder
>disdain the cross process look those idiots at lomo use all the time
>be living in a town where there is no e6 processing
>mail in to an e6 lab
>waiting to get my glorious 6X9 slides back
>they arrive today
>open up the package
>take out the roll, hold it against the sky
>loading
>those slides have a strange color cast
>actually crossprocessed negs
>mfw i have been cucked for beeing a pretentious hipster shooting lomo film
>is this the right punishment for shooting xpro?
>>
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>>3103834
The Nikon FM2 is pure mechanical fun times.
>>
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>>3103698
It's very good in HC-110

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>>3104290
This is the pinnacle of mechanical cameras. If I find one in excellent condition at a good price I'll get it. I know some people cite the FM3A as being the best, but it's a bit overly complicated in my opinion.
>>
https://www.literotica.com/s/summer-ch-12-gwens-story-1
>>
My slides have an ugly blue cast to them.

Seems fixable with white balance once I scan it, but is there a way to prevent it when actually shooting?
>>
>>3104324
If you use cross processed negatives no, if you buy actual slide film it should be expiration fault. So buy fresh film.
>>
>>3104324
Are you shooting Provia 100F by any chance?
>>
>>3104330

Not crossprocessed, not expired.

>>3104332

Yes. Does that matter?

My Provia 400x is a little blue too (but not nearly as bad).
>>
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>>3104324
Provia 100F tends to be blue, ESPECIALLY when shot in overcast. Use a warming filter.

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>>
>>3104342
Provia 100F is known to have a slight blue cast. Shoot with an 81A filter for best results.
>>
>>3104344
How hard could it possibly be for Fuji to design a pro-grade film that doesn't have an obvious color cast?
>>
>>3104355
To not have an obvious colour cast in which lighting conditions, dipshit? This is a slide film, not a negative you have to invert anyway or a digishit with auto white balance. Different lighting conditions, times of day, year, weather, they all have different colour temperature. Slide films sre optimized for specific circumstances and that's why a fuckton of filters exist and have been produced for decades. You can't just stomp in, obliviously snap your snapshits and go "waaaaah, this specialised medium I'm misusing doesnt give me exactly what I imaginedit would! shit tilm! get it together, manufacturers!"

Yeesh.
>>
>>3104345
>>3104344

Thanks anons, will pick one up.

Honestly not much of an issue since I digitize them anyway.
>>
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>>3103327
Nice shot. Is the top viewfinder of the T3 of any use? A friend considers the T3 because of it.

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>>
>>3104112
Minolta X-370s
>>
Would it be interesting picking up the Minolta auto flash (220x I think it is) off ebay for an X-300 or should I just go with something more recent that I can also use in my digital cam?
>>
>>3104191
But an x100 or xpro has no mechanical rangefinder but gives you the rangefinder experience
>>
>>3104366
Ty.
I would say it's adequate, it's bigger and way brighter then the waistlevels on other point and shoots but nowhere near let's say a Nikon F.
Distortion is quite severe but good enough to frame and level the horizon.
It's a nice additional feature but shouldn't be the main reason to get especially with the cult tax these days.

As for the rest, it's a swell camera, exposure and AF are pretty much always on point, very reliable and quiet. Lens is sharp as fuck and the brightest of all the T's at 2.8.

The downsides are that after every shot it resets to auto-flash which is annoying and the general size, it's bigger then most slr bodies and made of plastic.

>image contains embedded file.
Sorry no pic of the finder.
>>
>>3104374

360x is what you want.

Has a tilt head.

Not sure about compatibility with modern cameras, but it is so cheap you might as well.
>>
>>3104387
I have a 360px flash, mainly use it for my x700 but when I had a Nikon d7100 it worked on that as well, you have to check the voltages of the cameras hotshoe if you want to prevent frying your camera
>>
>>3104376
They have digital rangefinders by the most oblique definition
>>
>we Nachtwey now.
>>
>>3104040
>>3104041
>>3104042
>>3104082
>>3104083
>>3104088
Great pics but scans are absolutely atrocious.
>>
Has anyone ever used a MF TLR? I was thinking about getting a Yashica-Mat or Rolleicord for landscapes.
>>
>>3104420
Oh yeah, it's a cheap-o $100 scanner. Use it mostly to see which pictures are actually worth scanning and printing. But hey yields some decent results sometimes.
>>
>>3104442
>Use it mostly to see which pictures are actually worth scanning and printing
Most scanners/scanner software let you do a quick preview scan.
>>
Recommended 35mm film for California?
>>
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>>3104004
Kinda, CMEHA has no meter so as far as I could estimate it. Here's a daylight shot.
>>
>>3104355
Watching japanese TV I came to the understanding that this is the white point the japanese prefer.
>>
What are your thoughts on the Rollei 35 S? Looks like a cute little thing. Is it any good though?
>>
>>3104456
it is a shitty scanner, like those little cube ones, so the preview screen is absolute garbage. May as well do a scan and edit.

>>3104460
depends where you are going and what you are going to shoot.
>>
>>3104490
I'll be in San Francisco mostly. Probably architecture, buildings, scenery
>>
>>3104492
Color or bw?
>>
>>3104494
Both. I'll be there for about a week so will be able to get through a few rolls
>>
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>>3104386
Maybe it works now.
>>
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Got my 500c/m serviced recently and is really to get out there and start shooting some MF. Do you guys have any film recommendations? Will primarily shoot B&W for obvious reasons, but I want to try out some colour aswell.

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>>
>>3104492
>>3104494
For B&W I'd do Kodak Tri X, or Ilford HP5 Plus 400.

Color Fuji 200/ Ektar 200 if it's day time, or bright. And Maybe Fuji Superia 400 for better light range.
>>
>>3104489
It's fun, very nice lens.
It'll be a camera you either love or hate, it's designed for a very specific process of taking pictures, if you do anything else you'll find it inconvenient to use. Hard to explain.
If you don't overpay you'll definitely get you're money back if you don't like it so why not try it out.

Don't get an SE, they fucked up the above design philisophy in an attempt to make it a little more accessible and in the process made it a camera bad at every shooting style.
>>
>>3104533
>he fell for the hasselblad meme
>>
>>3104535
I'll elaborate a bit. IIRC the basic gist of the workflow is:
- In practice it's an aperture priority camera, in that you first decide the aperture, then compensate for lighting conditions with the shutter dial on the fly. The technically completely unnecessary button you have to push to change f-stop makes it clear the camera's been deliberately designed this way.

1. You meter the environment from the hip, focus when you've found the subject.
2. You look through the viewfinder at the last moment to take your picture.
Those 2 stages are separated by design to force you to only care about exposure in the first stage and focus only on composition in the second.

If you like to change exposure while deciding the composition or vice versa you're gonna have a bad time. The camera is deliberately designed to prevent it. It also teaches you not to worry _too_ much about getting the exposure spot on. Pretty liberating.

IMO it's a fascinatingly idiosyncratic camera. Regret selling mine.
>>
What's the scanner that is normally recommended in these threads? The plustek 8200 right?
>>
>>3104562
35mm without breaking the bank = Plustek 8200i SE (AI is just software and a slide target)
Double the money: Reflecta RPS 10M SE (AI is just software and a slide target)
>>
>>3104549
>In practice it's an aperture priority camera, in that you first decide the aperture, then compensate for lighting conditions with the shutter dial on the fly
lol what? in practice, you're describing manual operation.
>>
>>3104545
>He fell for the gear jealousy meme
>>
>>3104600
You misunderstand. It's aperture priority in the sense it's only convenient to change shutter speed on the fly, in regular manual operation you can easily change both.
>>
>>3104533
It's in a great cosmetic condition. Get some Ilford XP2 or Ilford Delta 400 or Kodak T-Max 400 for B/W and Portra 400 for color negatives.
>>
>>3104283
>not souping your own slides
t. cuck
>>
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Any good tutorials or advice for post work? Just got a shitbed for making decent scans to post on ig and shit, but I have zero real experience with photoshop.

Also my m42 mount lens adjusts the aperture when you change the ring and not right before the shutter opens so the shot will look dark in the viewfinder depending on what aperture setting I'm using? Is this something I'll just need to deal with or is there some way around it?
>inb5 new lens/camera

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>>
>>3104610
>It's aperture priority in the sense it's only convenient to change shutter speed on the fly,
that's not aperture priority though.
>>
>>3104630
In practice it is, the workflow is the same as Av. Aperture is your primary decision, then you needle match the shutter speed for the exposure. You're just turning the shutter speed manually while newer cameras do that for you.
Aperture is your priority, shutter speed follows, it's aperture priority. Simples.
>>
>>3104627
Just play around in PS at first.
Curves, Brightness/Contrast, Color Balance, Saturation/Vibrancy, etc.
>>
File: post.jpg (486KB, 1200x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104627
thats a good scan, because its flat.

this is what id do with that photo. post is really a matter of personal taste. your pic as it is would work great as a pseudo polish cinema still. what i do is to use curves to separate tonality, sometimes i group similar tones in a certain range, and sometimes i boost some specific, narrow range of tones that enhance things i want to stand out, just as you would with a graphic eq to a song or instrument.

i do a first curves to get a general feel fo what i want. then i do a second curves post on top of that to fine tune it. then i do some brightening of highlights with the burn tool. here i did it to the grass and tree foliage, brightening the grass helps making the girl stand out more. finish with a bit of sharpening.

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>>
>>3104627
> m42 mount lens adjusts the aperture when you change the ring and not right before the shutter opens
Probably a dumb question but is it actually an auto lens? Does it have a small silver pin next to the mount?
Is it a preset lens (like a Helios-44-2)? If so there are 2 rings, one you set your aperture and a second to close it down right before you make the shot.

Probably easier if you mention what lens you're talking about.
>>
>>3104524
Wtf is up with that pacman?
>>
>>3104636
>>3104638
thanks much

>>3104641
Looks like I'm an idiot, the lens does have an automatic switch that will change the aperture once I hit the shutter button. Silly me

pic related, pentax smc 55mm f/1.8
>>
>>3104647
well he did a better job explaining than me.
>>
File: PICT0027 RSZ.jpg (933KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
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quick little re-scan/edit of some.

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>>
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>>3104653

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>>
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>>3104656

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>>
>>3104653
>>3104656
>>3104657
Learn to scan properly. That poor quality make your pictures look like shit.
>>
>>3104658
I'm tellin you man, my scanner sucks, I'll scan them properly sometime in July.
>>
>>3104041
>>3104042
mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm art deco
>>
>>3104533

Medium Format dick pics.

DO IT!
>>
File: IMG_6149.jpg (64KB, 1080x608px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104533

God damn, that thing looks great.

I can't decide if I want an m-mount body, or a 500 c/m.

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>>
>>3104634
>In practice it is, the workflow is the same as Av. You're just turning the shutter speed manually while newer cameras do that for you.
>literally saying manual operation is aperture priority
are you retarded?
>>
>>3104593

The software is kinda nice I thought.

What software would you use instead?
>>
File: CULO AUTO 1000PX.jpg (1MB, 1136x1500px) Image search: [Google]
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>>
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>>3104742
Vuescan all the way, honestly don't even bother with Silverfast. Torrent the pro version of Vuescan, scan to a true raw file (~300-600mb negative), convert and resize in Photoshop (colorperfect is really nice for this, gets the colours absolutely spot on) and then do final edits and touches in Lightroom.

Once you do it a few times you can fully edit a scan in the time it takes for your next frame to scan.

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File: jewishfamily.jpg (39KB, 480x421px) Image search: [Google]
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Just dropped my first ever roll of film off yesterday to get developed and scanned. I know the pics will all be terrible but I'm pretty excited. a good feeling lads
>>
>>3104749

I have been using silverfast and scanning at 3200.

The full sized 300 mb scans are jus too big, dont have the space for them.

I assume Vuescan supports the automatic dust/scratch removal too?
>>
>>3104750
film feels are magical. literally christmas feels.
>>
>>3104755
Scan at 7200 and then resize if you want to hit the full potential of the scanner. Resizing gets them down to a much more managable size. And yeah vuescan can do auto scratch and dust removal if your scanner supports it
>>
>>3104756
Yeah I'm excited. I'm more interested to see how the camera holds up (no light leaks, etc.)

I know for a fact since I was shooting in fairly low light the photos will have a lot of shake and that sort of thing, but I'm still learning so that's okay
>>
>>3104748
i like it, but could be a little closer
>>
>>3104757

Cool, dropping a roll off to get developed now. Will give Vuescan a shot tonight.
>>
>>3104763
See how you like it, the workflow of scanning to a raw negative file and then converting and resizing in photoshop is a bit longer than what you're probably used to, but it's worth it. Can salvage quite a bit more detail and dynamic range if you're careful
>>
>>3104765

I will give it a shot, gotta dig up a torrent when I get home. But hobestly most of my shots really aren't worth the trouble.

Most of it is just snapshits from walking around the city I live. It is a beautiful city, so I can't resist.
>>
File: 2017-06-29-0005.jpg (803KB, 1647x1122px) Image search: [Google]
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Developed fujicolor superia 400 in caffenol and scanned with a WF-3620 scanner

Can't wait to get a proper scanner

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>>
>>3104778

Sup McGuyver?

Got a guide for that? I'd like to try.
>>
>>3104778
What sort of time did you do?

I've developed Fuji C200 in Ilfosol and used the time and dilution for Tri-X and it came out quite well.
>>
File: caffenol recipe.png (123KB, 1196x600px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104779

For Caffenol I used this recipe I found in the caffenol bible pdf

I bought the Washing Soda / Sodium Carbonate from home depot at the pool chem department

Instant Coffee from dollar tree

Vitamin C in a 8lb pail at amazon

and Iodized bulk salt at costco

for the scanner, being that it had no backlight, I used my phone as the backlight using a backlight app

Also pirate Vuescan, so you can get the most out of your scanner
>>
>>3104781

Wait, whay about fixer?
>>
>>3104780
>>3104794


about 10 minutes for development

5 minutes for fixing with ilford rapid fixer

about 2 minutes for washing with perma wash

about 2 minutes with ilford wetting agent
>>
>>3104797
You do a water stop bath?
>>
>>3104799

yes, I rinse until the brown soup is gone from the caffenol sludge
>>
File: IMG_20170630_012053.jpg (219KB, 1280x849px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104089
Tell me about that lens.
>>
>>3104781

>Vuescan

Like this?

https://zooqle.com/vuescan-pro-9-5-80-x86-x64-patch-cracksnow-w9pc8.html
>>
File: NIÑA FURGON 1000PX.jpg (473KB, 600x791px) Image search: [Google]
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grain

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>>
>>3104817

Not grainy enough.
>>
>>3104742
It comes with Silverfast SE which is 95% off AI, does everything you need.
>>3104749
>>3104755
>>3104757
To be fair I've used Vuescan (paid like a sucker) for years but I'm now using Silferfast again, it's just so much faster to use and the interface isn't complete dogshit.
>>
>>3104815
It's an anomaly in Vivitar's line-up, the king of budget 70-80's push-pull zooms and shitty primes but this is kind of a crazy lens.
135 f2.3 so it's giant, made by Komine.
It's razorsharp with a very soft, very smooth non-distracting bokeh.
If I have time I will hang it on my NEX to give an idea.
>>
>>3104816

I got it off the pirate bay
>>
>>3104741
You seem to have trouble grasping non-literal use of language. Are you autistic perhaps? If so I'll try to spell it out for you one last time: I'm not saying it's literally, exactly the same as Av on a modern camera, but your thinking behind it should be. It's a proto-Aperture Priority, if you will. Fully manual you're able to do whatever you like. Here however, aperture is, by design, always the primary creative decision you make, and shutter speed just follows to get the exposure right. Aperture is the priority. Q.E.D.
The rest of the class got this 3 posts ago.

If it's just too complicated for you to understand, despite multiple explanations, I can't help you. Maybe ask your couselor/handler to explain it to you some time.
>>
>>3104817
mmm
>>
File: se.jpg (178KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104386
>>3104524
Many thanks. He's into P&S and just got some mju I and Leica mini. As he wanted to get a T4, I was checking prices and noticed the hipster tax, so I told him about the T3 and the top finder.

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>>
File: hassy 500cm.jpg (575KB, 1217x857px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104616
>>3104738
Ah, sorry. That's not actually it, it's just a picture ripped from google. It's roughly representative of the actual cosmetic condition though - I'll include a pic of the real thing. I think this one in particular was manufactured in 1985.

Thanks for the tips though. I'll definitely keep an eye out for some Portra 400. As for the Ilford Delta, that's one I've actually had my eyes on for a while already; it seems very solid.

>>3104737
If you're going to make an art out of dick pics you might aswell go all in with 4x5. Really get those veins showing.

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>>3104867
i understand what you're saying. what i'm saying is you're fucking retarded. do you understand that?

>It's a proto-Aperture Priority, if you will.
i wont because it's not. it's standard use of a manual camera.

aperture priority very specifically means you set the aperture and the camera chooses the shutter speed.

you're fucking dumb. q.e.d.
>>
>>3104939

How is it?

I am new ti film, and dicking around with 135 is still new to me.

Wondering if I should go balls deep for a for a basic 500C/M, or get a damn nice 135 camera and a bunch of lenses.

It would certainly be a lot less embaressing to get my 135 snapshits developed than a roll of 6x6 snapshits.
>>
>>3104939
Kinda hate CF lenses and that fucking plastic winding knob but it's in a perfect cosmetic condition. It'll give you lot of satisfaction.
>>3104944
It's the perfect camera, you cannot ask for more. Of course it depends on what you want from your camera, if you're feeling too tight in 135 then give a try to medium format.
>>
>>3104944
I haven't been doing it very long either. Have primarily been running around with a Nikon FM2 which is just an amazingly well-built mechanical camera. If you're worried about people dissing your MF snapshit you could develop B&W rolls yourself - it shouldn't be an issue.

>>3104948
I've kinda avoided using the crank for that reason; sure, it's solid plastic, but it doesn't feel right. I have one of those proper winding knobs in a box somewhere that I'll probably replace it with.
>>
File: you.gif (68KB, 500x293px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3104943
>>
>>3104958
>>
>>3104953
Get the older one
>>
>>3104953
>>3104948

Honestly leaning towards a solid 135 right now. Eyeing the Minolta CLE. Just a whole lot easier to load, use, and scan.

Might just get the 500C/M at a later date.
>>
>>3104889
>got some mju I

Good, he already has a pocket camera, this isn't one of them.
>>
>>3104939
>>3104737

>medium format dick pics
>who is Robert Mapplethorpe?

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>>3105027
Impressive equipment on two counts.
>>
File: IMG_0868.jpg (1MB, 2048x2048px) Image search: [Google]
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XA > MJU II
>>
>>3105031
Underrated photographer in my opinion
>>
>>3105018
Well, he has several. The mini is also quite small.
Been considering some Fuji Clearshot 60 AF myself.
>>
>>3105031
It's a prop.
>>
>>3105093
It makes sense, but it's still a bit disappointing.
>>
>>3105095
Get the Taschen Big penis book if you want to feel really inadequate.

(Actually has some pretty good portraits, not joking)
>>
File: $_57.jpg (45KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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Considering opening up a Leica M3 to get the slow shutter speeds working again and take a look at the not completely smooth film advance mechanism.
Anyone got experience with these chinese wrench tool thingies on eBay? (pic related) They're significantly cheaper than most other ones you can find online, but are they any good?
I'd rather use a proper tool than a regular wrench to avoid scratches, but I'd prefer not spend too much on something I'll probably only use once.
>>
>>3105101
Don't do it yourself.
Tiny little springs that explode everywhere.
>>
>>3105104
Doesn't seem too difficult though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOfuKE288HE
Not planning on taking it apart completely. Just want to diagnose the problems, perhaps drop in a drop of lighter fluid or machine oil to get gears running smoothly again.

Have repaired quite a few cameras before so I'm not too scared of opening it up (then again I know very well what a massive PITA little springs can be).
>>
File: IMG_1277.jpg (1MB, 1500x1500px) Image search: [Google]
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Hassy 500cm, 80mm, Kodak Tri-X @ 1600.

Scanned by a friend on an epson.

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>>
Any successful stories about pushing hp5+ to 1600 or 3200? Thinking about trying it for sharts and kekkles. I know it's not really film to be pushed, but i've got a roll i can sacrifice and some d76
>>
>>3103378
Go home
>>
>>3105149
diggin this one
>>
>>3104283
Call them up and yell at them, demand nothing but their attentiveness in the future
>>
>>3105158
I've had some really good, contrasty results from pushing to 1600 in Microphen stock. Camera was an OM-2 w/ the 50mm f/1.8, mostly shooting wide open or one stop down indoors during the dark season. It may just have been the magical meter in that camera though.
>>
File: hp5-lotta#001.jpg (186KB, 1000x666px) Image search: [Google]
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Gave stand development in Rodinal 1+100 another try and went for semi-stand with 3 inversions every 15min. Still not pleased and the results are a lot worse than what I get with D-76.

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>>3105201
Like this one though.

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>>
>>3105149
Pretty sweet, anon.

How does one get rid of those dust spots when scanning anyway? Fiber cloth, fine brush, air blower?
>>
>>3105201
>>3105203
For some reason HP5 and Rodinal does not get along. every other dev seems to be okay. I have best results with HC-110, Xtol and Pyrocat-HD
>>
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>>3105208
You might be right, looking back I always got bad results with that combination - apart from bad photos. Some shots are still ok. Still have to try HC-110, but I'm afraid I won't use anything else afterwards.

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>>3105213
Anotherfag here. HC-110 does this. The results are so consistent. Doesn't work too well for tmax 100 and such prissy films tho, density curve sweet spot is really narrow.
>>
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How am I doing?
>>
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Bad shot - didn't expect the available light to be that strong. Ran into problems with max. aperture+sync speed.

>>3105219
I'm usually not shooting t-grain, so I guess I'm not going to run into such problems. Have to order chemistry soon anyway, fixer is almost empty.

>>3105225
Unfortunately, you missed focus (back of chair). Apart from that her pose looks a little weird. Is the negative damaged? Would ruin it completely.

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>>3105228
Thanks, the neg is as received from the lab, unfortunately
>>
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>>3105230
Wonder how they managed to scratch it that way. The scratch is orthogonal to the way film is handled during development, or scanning.

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>>
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>>3105225
>film photography on /p/ in a nutshell

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>>3105249
...he said, ignoring every other photo posted in this and previous /fgt/s
>>
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>>3105249
mfw

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>>
>>3105254
>Dozens of soft, light-leaky, poorly scanned photos of arbitrary shite.

Nothing was missed.
>>
What are the most annoying analog photography memes according to /fgt/?
I'll start
>Point and shot
>>
>>3105093
I'm not convinced. Look at his other work.

https://birdinflight.com/why_its_masterpiece/20160722-man-in-polyester-suit-robert-mapplethorpe.html
>>
>>3105097
I've been meaning to check out Taschen stuff, if only to find more good sex-but-not-strictly-porn photographers.
>>
>>3105298
The picture that was posted couldn't have been Robert Mapplethorpe, I think it's just a tribute. The actor in the picture would've been 20 when Mapplethorpe died.
>>
>>3105303
Hmm, I didn't know that. Thank you. Time for me to go back to school.
>>
File: Ektar_008-1.jpg (460KB, 1000x750px) Image search: [Google]
Ektar_008-1.jpg
460KB, 1000x750px
>>3105288
Overexpose all print film without even trying it at box speed first.

Seriously wtf.

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>>
>>3105288

Caffenol
>>
>>3105288
>Underexposed pictures that magically become artistic
>>
>>3105288
>tri-x pushed to 1600
>>
>>3104815
Why does it wear the mask?
>>
>>3104872
mmmmm
>>
>>3105404
MMMBOP
>>
>>3105362
kek
>>
>>3105407
heh
>>
>>3105332
this scan looks like total garbage
>>
File: crop.jpg (378KB, 752x538px) Image search: [Google]
crop.jpg
378KB, 752x538px
>>3105429
wat's garbage about it? if you're talking about grain, the film is fucked from being expired and stored in high temps.

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>>
>>3105447
Well, everything is muddy as fuck and the contrast makes things look like they've been photoshopped in.
>>
>>3103557
this is fantastic
how hard is it to shoot double exposures? what things do you need to take into consideration?
>>
File: F1000022.jpg (569KB, 1229x1818px) Image search: [Google]
F1000022.jpg
569KB, 1229x1818px
Any Australians on here used Rewind Photo Lab? They state that if you send 8 rolls for dev/scan then the 8th roll is free, some of their reviews are promising but not entirely sure whether to send 8 rolls to them.

pic is from Barcelona with Ektar 100.

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>>
>>3103425
Ask them?
>>
>>3105300
Look at Shot by Kern.
Probably one of Richard Kern's most cohesive books, his style is so light and at the same time so sleazy.
>>
>>3105165
>>3105206
tyty

I usually shoot 35mm and scan on a plustek so I'm used to having less dust then on a flatbed. Simply a few squirts with a blower is good enough, unless your film is really dusty and then you can just drag it between a clean! fibre cloth.

I mostly just use spot clean in Lightroom to remove any remaining spots but sometimes I really can't be bothered any more.
>>
>>3105027
>>3104737
I've been browsing dick rate threads for some time and I've really seen some beauties. But you know what's the problem with these dick pics? They're all fucking shitty phone pics, you can hardly appreciate the nice ones. One day I'd like to round up the beautiful dicks and really do them justice with proper well-lit, high resolution photographs.
>>
Any Madrid /fgt/s here? Recommendations for a good lab? I've been going to Caprile Photo but they're fucking expensive. Fotocasión is cheaper but I think the quality of the scans they burn on the CD sucks shit and honestly I'm not touching any Fotoprix or not specialized place with a 10-foot pole.

Is any of the European-based mail services that send you a download link for the pics and mail the developed negatives back any good?
>>
>>3105620
God speed, anon. Good luck.
>>
Help me out brothers, please.

The shutter of my Nikon Fe2 suddenly doesn't open anymore. Everytime I take a picture the shutter closes, but stays closed. I have to put the shutter speed on M250 to open it again. Also suddenly my light meter scale doesn't work anymore.

Is there anyway to fix this on my own or do I have to go to a repair shop?

Thanks for your help in advance.
>>
>>3105730
Battery check?

Seems like it since the shutter and meter both need it to work.
>>
File: 30073968716_4dea2346c2_b.jpg (178KB, 1024x683px) Image search: [Google]
30073968716_4dea2346c2_b.jpg
178KB, 1024x683px
>>3103478
Only by accident.
>>
>>3103478
I know this is some generic commie building, but is it in Kielce?
>>
>>3105779
Man, talk about happy accidents! Church tiled floor indoors/outdoors city street shot, awesome.
>>3105780
I don't know. I found it going through flickr looking for example photos from either a Lubitel or a Start TLR ages ago, saved it 'cause I liked it. You can prolly google reverse image search it, it might have been a polish photog.
>>
>>3105792
Thanks. Still, I lost my shots of the golden hour at forum romanum. It's inside St. Peter's Basilica and outside showing Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II on the right.
>>
File: 35510014.jpg (794KB, 1545x1024px) Image search: [Google]
35510014.jpg
794KB, 1545x1024px
Any recommendations for mail-based development and scans? I've used thedarkroom a few times, but would like to know some other options.

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>>
File: Rome-#4-006.jpg (865KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
Rome-#4-006.jpg
865KB, 667x1000px
>>3105779
Another one from the same roll - superia 400 btw.

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>>
File: Rome-#4-004.jpg (123KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
Rome-#4-004.jpg
123KB, 667x1000px
>>3105807
...last one. I wouldn't shoot double exposures intentionally. They can be nice or complete clusterfucks.

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>>
>>3105813
if someone knows what they're doing they can at worst be successful gimmicks and at best unique things impossible to achieve otherwise. chop had a lot of great ones, for instance.
>>
File: ee (1 of 1).jpg (225KB, 800x533px) Image search: [Google]
ee (1 of 1).jpg
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Hello guys, I picked up a cheap XA-2 and the images out of the camera have a color cast and vignetting.

I am wondering what this is coming from. Is it a light seal problem? The film has been run through an x-ray machine but I can't imagine that's the cause because it's not fast film. It is present in nearly all of the images, to varying degrees, across 2 rolls of film.

Lens issue? Light seal issue?

Can I clean this camera myself, or get it repaired? I really like the ergonomics and shooting is fun.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>
>>3105817
>if someone knows what they're doing
Guess that's my problem in regards to double exposures. Basically composition would have to be similar and orientation should be the same in the two shots. So, it would probably best to take notes. When I go out shooting I take nothing with me except for the camera.

>>3105866
Doesn't look like a light leak to me. Never had any issues with ISO 400 and airport xray, not even if rolls went through them several times. Is this cast visible in the negative as well? Was it fresh film? Also, Newton rings.
>>
File: negative (1 of 1).jpg (175KB, 800x533px) Image search: [Google]
negative (1 of 1).jpg
175KB, 800x533px
>>3105871
Here is the negative. The cast is visible there also. Film is iso100 so it shouldn't have been a problem. And not expired film or anything either.

Would a blemish on the lens create this?

Or maybe heat on the film? We were in the tropics but the camera wasn't left in the sun too much.

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>>
File: img317.jpg (138KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
img317.jpg
138KB, 1000x667px
>>3105877
I ment that you should inspect the actual negative for that cast - so we can rule out any issues with the scan itself. See attached scan for what I mean in regards to cast and Newton rings. Usually, scratches and dust on/in the lens are not visible, don't know about larger spots (e.g. fingerprints).
Does the XA-2 have a little window at the back so you can see which film is inside? If so and the cast is visible in the negative as well, inspect the light seals around it.

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>>
File: Kodak_Portra_160.jpg (793KB, 3500x2333px) Image search: [Google]
Kodak_Portra_160.jpg
793KB, 3500x2333px
Whats your favorites color film? Show with example

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>>
>>3105866
Have you succesfully shot/digitized film without these issues aside from these two rolls and the XA2?

I'm asking since you seem to be digitizing the negs yourself with a digicam. The issues you report might come from uneven backlighting or some other flaw of the digitizng process itself - do the negs, held up to light (i.e. white wall) still exhibit these issues?
>>
File: Bild009_Neg.Nr.8A.jpg (369KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
Bild009_Neg.Nr.8A.jpg
369KB, 667x1000px
Portra 400

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File: 1495598992312.jpg (39KB, 249x191px) Image search: [Google]
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39KB, 249x191px
>>3105879
Huh, so the color cast is actually the scan. Vignetting is present on the negative but that's alright. These were quick and dirty (literally) scans so I have to go back and do them right for the keepers.

Thanks for being so helpful!
>>
>>3105885
Better that way, enjoy your cast-free shots. You're welcome.
>>
if I start shooting some roll with 200 ASA, can I change it to it's 100 ASA? or the whole roll is going to be 200?
>>
>>3105866
>>3105877
Is it actually on the negative, or on the scan of the negative?

Since you're DSLR scanning, it could be a reflection of your DSLR's lens. If you're using a light source that spills light outside of the negative area your trying to scan, you'll get lens reflections.

>>3105908
You can change it, assuming it's a film that has enough exposure latitude to handle one stop over exposure. Print films should be fine, but if you're shooting slide it won't be.
>>
reee
>>
>>3105460
I've used rewind before, good guys. Stephen who runs the place is a top bloke and has been in the business for years and years. I sent them two rolls of old slide film, one came out well and the other was a little faded and they only charged me for the development of one roll even though the faded roll was perfectly acceptable.
>>
File: IMG_20170617_231236_365.jpg (338KB, 1003x665px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_20170617_231236_365.jpg
338KB, 1003x665px
>>3105881
Kodacolor is... interesting.
>>
File: IMG_20170617_231150_910.jpg (274KB, 1024x679px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_20170617_231150_910.jpg
274KB, 1024x679px
>>3105980
>>
>>3105980
Well this is just really underexposed.
>>
Are airports funny about you carrying film? Should I just stick it in my cargo luggage?
>>
>>3106157
You need a special bag for blocking Xrays. So yes, they are funny about carrying film
>>
>>3106157
This >>3106245 is plain bullshit. Nothing ever happened to me, or the film I took with me.
>>
New thread this way
>>3106439
>>3106439
>>3106439
>>
>>3105149
>Scanned by a friend on an epson.
...anon.
>>
>>3104131
i have the g2 and the AF is fucking good actually
+ you can focus in completly dark bc it has a infrared focus system too
dunno about the g2

but if you wanna know
my party camera that never failed me with AF and perfect flash
>fuji dl500
you can switch from 28mm to 45mm
Thread posts: 328
Thread images: 100


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