/astro/ astrophotography general

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Heres my attempt at M33, another big and bright galaxy
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triangulum_Galaxy
Same gear (Canon 6D, Skywatcher 200/1000mm on EQ5 mount, no autoguiding, cls filter to remove some of the light pollution)

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M42 great orion nebula.

side by side comparison of my attempts over the years, with different scopes and cameras to show more detail of this object.

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The horsehead nebula and the flame nebula (bottom left). The bright star is Alnitak (zeta orionis). same gear as previous posts.

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>>3080082
>>3080086
>>3080090
>>3080099
Stellar images as always, ruff

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The veil nebula in the Cygnus constellation.

Also, I feel kinda bad posting always the same images, hopfefully some other anons will post their stuff as well and share their love of extreme time exposures :')

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File: IMG_5908.jpg (174KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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M57 "the ring nebula" in Lyra.
An easy, bright object (here at 1500mm)

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File: heart_1200_w.jpg (745KB, 1200x801px) Image search: [Google]

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Trying to capture some deep sky objects with my bird photo lens (a Canon 400mm f5.6) mounted on my telescope mount.
>The heart nebula IC 1805

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I wish I had the money to burn to start doing this. One of my friends got into to photography just start doing this.

>>3080164
Sturdy tripod (studio), a good manual 400mm lens or even a 70-200/2.8 and a Staradventurer tracking mount is all you need (besides your camera) to start. Better check if the IR cut filter in your camera can take H-alpha.

>>3080100
>Stellar images

oh you.

>>3080082
terrifc photos my dude. There's some posterization in the horsehead nebula photo. Is that just from trying to squeeze under the silly filesize rule?

>>3080168
huh, I always assumed that a 200 would hilariously too short

I'll have to look into whether my 5Ds or 5Dii would be suitable. Could also modify the 5Dii. I dont use it for anything these days and the outside is trashed so it wouldnt sell for anything.

>>3080297
200 is short if you go for small DSOs. For nicer larger structures, nebulas and complex nebula structures you can go as low as 50mm or even less if you want the Orion loop on APS-C. Heart and Soul with surrounding stars, the double clusters and part of the Cassiopeia in a nice composition, 70mm or 135mm on APS-C.
Andromeda barely fits in 200mm on APS-C, but the dim outer fringe might not get exposed properly, for this you have to use longer exposure or higher ISO for the fringes and lower the exposure to preserve the core and merge as quasi-HDR.
So a good 400mm refractor is a good start for DSOs, but a 70-200/2.8 is highly recommended for more complex compositions.
two weeks ago at the Moon-Jupiter conjunction I used 400mm to get them in one frame, plus some illuminated clouds but I didn't process the images yet.

>>3080297
5Ds will have half the usable DR of the 5DII, so use that instead. I'd recommend modding it as well with an astro filter and glass to be able to use it as a normal camera.
Leave the 5Ds for the normal stuff.

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Jupiter from last night, ASI120MC on a 102/1000mm achro

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>>3080303
Well I have the 100 L macro and 70-200/2.8 ii so I'll have to give this a go.

>>3080304
>5Ds will have half the usable DR of the 5DII
For what reason?

>>3080164
>>3080359
Where's the fucking /p/ book?

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>>3080360
on the back burner

I changed studios unexpected in April. My new studio is way better but the move should have taken a weekend but the person in the space before me took forever. Like a fucking month and that was with me getting impatient and finally starting to just move their shit. I have show on June 8th I need have 50 pieces for and that takes precedent. Book will probably be in early June. My last day of work before break is June 1st so I I'll have a pile of time starting then. Enough to work more on the book even with this show coming up.

shit sux

>>3080359
If you use the zoom lense, be sure to tape it at your desired zoom, otherwise it will probably creep which will be visible in longer exposures

Id say just stick with using the 100 macro for starting out

>>3080359
>For what reason?
Much smaller photosites on the 5Ds so you get less photons hitting one.

>>3080502
70-200/2.8 II L is internal zoom. It doesn't creep.

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>>3080579
It being internal zoom does not mean it doesnt creep.

>>3080594
Nikkor 80-200 weighs a ton. Don't compare it to modern lenses.

Any recommendation for a motorized equatorial mount for max 250USD?

>>3080622
Star Adventurer or Star Adventurer Mini if your shit is below 3kg total.

>>3080623
Thanks. Any idea if Orion EQ-1 with EQ-1M motor is any good? Im shooting a Sony a7s with random lenses. I'll probably shoot some of the biggest E-mount lenses but theyre not particularly big compared to actual telescopes. Also, limited to 30 second exposures, cuz SONY STAR EATER

>>3080633
You need an equatorial mount and in your budget the Star Adventurer is the cheapest, beefiest and most precise. The included polar scope is one of the best, polar alignment is really easy.
It can do autoguiding on one axis which can make a huge difference, though a good 400-450mm small refractor scope (referred to by aperture in astro, so look for 80 or 90 size small refractor) is the maximum it can move. You can do a lot with that kind of setup, just google "small refractor astrophotography" on google and YT.
The A7s might not do as good (tampered RAW, star eater, not much detail because low MP), get a cheap used Canon SL1, it is one of the best in small astro. Light, cheap as nails and can see H-alpha right out of the box. Learn stacking, look up tutorials on YT.

>>3080640
>You need an equatorial mount and in your budget the Star Adventurer is the cheapest, beefiest and most precise.
EQ-1 is equatorial. I found it for $160 USD including motor

>It can do autoguiding on one axis which can make a huge difference, though a good 400-450mm small refractor scope
I will be using camera lenses only as I have free access to them. When I do spend money it will be on a 6" reflector. Dont think Ill need an auto-guider since I will only be doing 30 second exposures at FLs of usually 200mm max, though occasionally Ill use 300mm and 500mm

>The A7s might not do as good (tampered RAW, star eater, not much detail because low MP), get a cheap used Canon SL1
a7s star eater is only in bulb mode. So I can do 30 second exposures without worrying about it. I already have the a7s, any future camera upgrades will be dedicated astro-imagers

Cheapest decent scope to get started? I have a Nikon D7100, will APS-C be enough? cheers

>>3080652
30 second exposures will not do. You will need at least 2min exposure or 5 minutes. 30sec on f/2.8 is dim as fuck and you will want to stop down on a lens to keep CA and coma in control.

>>3080659
it would be multiple 30 sec exposures stacked

>>3080086
Thank you for listing out the equipment specifics. I've been trying to get into this kind of photography for ages.

This is completely possible with just 1000mm? I can't seem to find anything even with 1200mm when I stack a bunch of lens and extenders.

File: Andromeda.jpg (661KB, 1200x800px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080735
You will need more than 30 sec frames in that stack for the details to come out.
I know, you want to do astro but forcing your (false) beliefs won't do much other than making a fool of yourself.
You need exposure time, even on a bright object like Andromeda at f/2.8 you need more than 90 seconds for the dim parts to get exposed, and this is on a 67% QE sensor.
Astrophotography is very different from everyday photography. I suggest you research more on it before you try to jump in the wrong way. It is a very heavy thing budget wise so you absolutely have to know what you want to do and how to do it. Guessing and having strong belief is not enough.
Pic related is what 30 sec frames will give you, might be even less if your QE is worse. The core is overexposed and the fringe is barely visible or not at all. In this case, the latter.
Research more and you will realize at least 2 minutes is what you want to work with. Plus you will have to use bulb to have a synced exposure with the mount and/or tether software.

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>>3080741

what forced beliefs? I have access to lenses much faster than 2.8. 85mm f1.4 for example. and a7s can crank iso pretty high

>>3080743
...
fine, be an idiot.

>>3080744
i dont know what your issue is. i can use free equipment provided to me by my job or i can spend hundreds of dollars of my own reason for what seems to me to be no good reason.

my job provides me with a limited selection of camera bodies, of which ive already got an a7s modded for full spectrum. i also get a wide choice of lenses

back to my original question; mounts, something my work does not provide. but go on stubbornly shilling your canon sl1, while calling people idiots for using the camera with the largest photosites and highest iso capacity available

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$90 for a Canon telescope adapter...

How effective would shooting with a telescope be compared using a 1000mm telephoto lens?

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>>3080797
In short, much better.
Considering you would be shooting DSOs and not the neighbors daughters. In the latter case go with the telephoto lens.

>>3080797
>1000mm telephoto lens

citation needed

>>3080808
Have you ever heard of mirrorlenses?

>>3080809
oh yea theyre mostly (all?) catadioptrics. look into ritchey cretians, you can get a 1400mm focal length 6" aperture for $400 usd, and its 100% mirror, coma free

>>3080816
I'd rather get my systems light equivalent of a 70-200/2.8, then a Star Adventurer and after that maybe getting a small refractor. Depends how my Sigma 50-500 performs on the star adventurer, but that is many months away from now.

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moon and venus

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>>3080082
Eh I did this with a Celestron NexStar 5SE using a Revolution Imager R2
with light pollution I got 2 dust bunnies on the senor they kinda ruin the image but eh! Not bad for first try!
Currently trying to make payments to get a Celestron Advanced VX mount.

I want to get started in astrophotography, is the Milky Way visible at this time of the year or do I need to wait for autumn?

>>3080902
This is wonderful

>>3080988

Summer has the best Milky Way spread of the year.

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>>3080988
Depends on where you live in the world my advice is download a program called stellarium will help you be able to plan your nights for stuff in the future along with being where things will be a the time of day it is.

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>>3081033
Was my bad stacking of Saturn sorry heh!

>>3080988

> In the spring (March – May), it will first become visible a few hours before sunrise. By June it will rise much earlier before midnight. The summer months (June – August) are generally the best viewing time because it will be up most of the night...Twilight can brighten the sky up to 2 hours before sunrise and 2 hours after sunset, so you want to avoid those times.

http://darksitefinder.com/maps/world.html

Ideally you want to shoot the milky way from a place with as little light pollution as possible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1Kfr8RG3zM

Though you can still do it in a place with light pollution by doing ettr

http://www.moonconnection.com/moon_phases_calendar.phtml

You also want to limit the light pollution from the moon, so shooting when the moon is darkest is best.


https://petapixel.com/2016/01/16/how-to-photograph-the-milky-way/

This guide is pretty good.

File: IMG_20170418_131933.jpg (174KB, 1440x810px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
Favorite picture so far :)

>>3080657
>Cheapest decent scope to get started?
This will be my first scope:
http://www.highpointscientific.com/gso-6inch-rc-ritchey-chretien-telescope-6rc
Ritchey Cretians are great for astrophotography; its the design the Hubble uses for example

>will APS-C be enough?
Absolutely. Most dedicated astro imagers are smaller. Most of the larger dedicated astro CCDs are 1" and 4/3". Smaller sensors mean you are more likely to be able to use focal reducers (speed boosters). Smaller sensors are also less susceptible to pick up pretty much every optical distortion, including coma, astigmatism, and a non-flat focal field

>>3080622
>>3080623
>>3080633
>>3080640
Did some research and EQ-1M does seem to be kind of shitty. Orion Astroview looks like another good option. Both the Astroview and the Star Adventurer are about the same price at about $330 USD. Only thing other than those that would tempt me is an EXOS-2GT for $500 since it has GoTo

>>3080659
>>3080741
>You will need more than 30 sec frames
What if I combined 30 sec frames with multi-minute frames? The 30 sec frames could pick up whatever STAR EATER destroys, and the longer frames could pick up whatever is needed for them?

Really Im interested mostly in imaging dim stars. Probably kind of boring pictures, but I just want to be able to image stars that would normally be invisible to the naked eye or even an eye looking through a telescope.

>>3081886
Stacking is a kind of weighted average algorithm. If half the frames have stareater you will end up with shitty smudged and dim stars. This is why I suggested getting a very cheap but more usable camera separately for this. The SL1 is a great astro cam straight out of the box and is cheap to modify further. If you go with the dedicated refractor scope way you can even convert it to astro only with even bigger IR range.
The astrophoto community goes around the Sony camera question frequently but the results are always apalling compared to cheaper older DSLR results.
Keep the A7s as your everyday camera and get a cheap used Canon rebel. See what the cut filter transmission allows. Look for the bump in the curve around 650nm, that is where the H-alpha is. Most of the astro stuff radiates in H-alpha, some less in O-III and the rest are stars giving various white light. The Canon SL1 is the one with a bigger bump around 650nm.
You can find the cut filter transmission diagrams here:
https://kolarivision.com/articles/internal-cut-filter-transmission/

>>3082009
Oh, forgot, the cut filter in the SL1 is the same as the one in the 20D, so look for that diagram.

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Whirlpool Galaxy

-Exposure:
Red: 15x300"
Green: 10x300"
Blue: 1x300"
-Camera: Atik 314l+ (-20°C)
-Telescope: Skywatcher 130pds
-Mount: NEQ6 PRO
-Guide scope: Skywatcher startravel-80
-Guide camera: Orion StarShoot

File: messier13.png (1MB, 1391x1039px) Image search: [Google]

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Great Cluster in Hercules

>>3082080
How do you cool it down to -20°C? Thermoelectric coolers can only manage 9°C, maybe 5°C if beefy enough.

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Rosette Nebula with a Hydrogen-alpha filter.

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>>3082084
I have no idea. It says -19°C in the program. All I know is that it's peltier cooled.

>>3082084
https://www.atik-cameras.com/product/atik-314l-plus/

highly efficient set-point thermoelectric cooling – to 27º C below ambient temperature

File: messier81.png (1014KB, 1391x1039px) Image search: [Google]

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M81

I'm not that happy with this one because the flat frames didn't come out well so I couldn't average out the dust donuts from the image but oh well.

>>3082088
Oh, It can be that it is a relative temperature.
The detectors I work with are in a heated chamber up to 36°C, and the detector is cooled down to 9°C.
That means it is -27°C relative to the chamber temp.

>>3082090
Okay, it is relative then.

Try to record the ambient temp as well for better statistics.

>>3082088
>>3082093
>Try to record the ambient temp as well for better statistics.
Actually you should do that to avoid going below dew point so your sensor isn't fogging up.
Something like this can help as well: https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dew-point-calc/id457306600?mt=8

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I recently got back Home to my parents and decided to Check out my old telescope from when I was a wee Lad (bought for 650DM before the Euro). Couldnt find the camera attachment which i knew it had. cant find the Store online anymore either.
Pic related is the only Solid Info I could find.
How can I get a camera attachment, ideally for MFT, but I could also adapt to FD if needed?

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>>3082791
Is it a catadioptric, a newtonian or a refractor scope? Where do you put the ocular?

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>>3082802
Ocular and aiming scope are where I Put them, but Not the camera attachment
I measured the Tube where the ocular goes in.
Inner Diameter is ~32mm

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>>3082802
Oh and I dunno which exactly it is, but it has a mirror and a prism to reflect the Image out 90°

>>3082809
Post better photos with the whole thing in view. You put the camera in place of the ocular with a T-mount adapter.
Some newtonians (older ones) tubes are designed visual only so a DSLRs flange distance means it can't be focused properly, the mirror has to be modified and a new hole drilled in the tube closer to the mirror. With a mirrorless like your MFT camera this is not an issue.
Get a telescope adapter for your camera and put it in like an ocular.

>>3082810
... is the oculars hole at the rear, in line with the axis of the tube, or at the front of the tube jutting out sideways?

>>3082811
It's a reflector
Thanks for all that Info.
I was worried thatafter more than 18 years, the mirror would have deteriorated and turned Milky but it still Looks perfectly fine
Cant wait to Test it with my camera

>>3082822
Work out a good tethering solution, maybe a cheap screen with HDMI so you can focus it properly. Use a bahnitov mask, it helps a lot.
Also I hope the mount is motorized, if it is manual then it will be no use with a camera.

>>3082827
Lumix has ideal Focus peaking and the Smartphone App is also really good
The thing I'm really concerned about is that my telescope doesnt have a follow-motor
Concerning "t-mount"
I looked Up Adapters and all I can find is "T2 system" and "TS optics", i dunno which has the 32mm Diameter

>>3082832
Focus peaking is not very good in astro, you will have a lot of false edges and the focus range will be mushy. Turn off peaking, make the bahnitov mask out of cardboard, put it on the scope and the diffraction spikes will tell the proper focus.
You def. need a motor mount to take photographs, even video clips.
On the mount, google the sizes. It's a tube in tube design with friction lock so not a precise optical thing. The only precision part is the bayonet for your camera.

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>>3080082
M3 with a Celestron NexStar 5SE using a Revolution Imager R2

>>3082009
>Keep the A7s as your everyday camera and get a cheap used Canon rebel

Actually I already own a 20D, an XSi, and a T1i

>>3083083
Perfect. Use the 20D for starters, or the XSi.

>>3083088
>>3083083
Also consult Backyard EOS for compatibility.

>>3083088
Why not the T1i? If it has to do with the IR blocking filter I can easily remove that.

>>3083091
T1i has shit DR, 20D was the first designed with astro in second priority. One of the r&d guys at Canon was into astrophotography, same story with Pentax and it's unique astrotracer mode.
Looking at the charts at Kolarivision, the XSi is shit at 650nm, but if you can replace the filter with a baader astro filter it can work: http://www.astrosurf.com/buil/baader/eval_us.htm

>>3083093
Interesting story. I once loaded 20Da data onto a 20D, and it enabled live view :)

I still have 20Da data :)

But not the software that is capable of transferring it to the 20D :(

File: M51_sigma_stack_frame.jpg (658KB, 900x1200px) Image search: [Google]

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a little M51 taken a few hours ago.
vignetting is from the light pollution "clip" filter.

bottom is a single frame (105 seconds)

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File: IMG_20170525_221427.jpg (4MB, 3088x4160px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
Daddies new baby girl.

>>3083186
The a in 20Da means it is a factory designed astrophotography camera. Today we have the 60Da, the 6Da (not sure if this one is official) and on the Nikon side the D810A
But everyday cut filters with the bump at H-alpha (25% or more efficiency) are able to pick up stuff nicely, my K-3 picked up very nice h-alpha nebulosity near the galactic eye, shame I screwed up with not putting on the viewfinder cap. 500 shots into the trash.

>>3083186
Quick google, the 20Da had a different sensor that didn't fry itself in liveview. No real use of the 20Da firmware on the 20D...
I suggest replace the cut filter in the XSi and use that instead, the liveview focusing will help a lot and is compatible with Backyard EOS:
https://www.otelescope.com/store/category/2-backyardeos/

>>3083378
>Quick google, the 20Da had a different sensor that didn't fry itself in liveview.
I am not sure thats true, but ill look into it. The 20D I tried this on worked fine

>No real use of the 20Da firmware on the 20D...
just to be clear, it wasnt firmware, it was camera data. You would only have access to this if you had access to official Canon internal use only calibration software, which I used to.

>I suggest replace the cut filter in the XSi and use that instead, the liveview focusing will help a lot and is compatible with Backyard EOS:
Awesome thanks for the info, of those 3 DSLRs I have I will surely go with the XSi for astro use.

File: IMG_3585c.jpg (400KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3081763
>>3083227
sexy!

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File: light_15sec.jpg (303KB, 752x582px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
See how good I did blowing the core out like wtf!

File: IMG_20170505_211218.jpg (1MB, 4158x3120px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
Bought this domain name called juststargazing.com debating on whether or not to change the theme.

>>3083676
This potato looks overcooked, moopco

File: M3_Stack_1899frames_153s.png (229KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
Finally got to take my Explore Scientific AR 102 for a imaging session I'm kinda pleased guys!
I used the Revolution Imager R2 and Sharpcap 3.0
Now all I gotta do is sit back for 3 months and hopefully I will have my Celestron Advanced VX mount and a Orion Mini Guider.

>>3083981
You do realize it is basically a guidecam, don't you?
Put a decent camera on that scope and you'll have much better quality images.

Can anyone tell me what different sensor sizes exist for dedicated monochrome astro imagers? I have seen 1" and 4/3". Im not really interested in smaller than that. Are there APS-C and full frame sensors? Larger? Are astro imagers migrating from CCD to CMOS like regular cameras, or is CCD considered superior for astro use?

>>3084249

>4/3"

Man, MFT has really fucked up people's perception of measurements.

>>3084252
Huh? 4/3 is a legitimate sensor size, and MFT has nothing to do with it. Before Olympus used MFT it used.... 4/3 !!

And many astro imagers are classified explicitly as 4/3" format.

http://www.highpointscientific.com/qhy-qhy163m-monochrome-cooled-cmos-astronomy-imaging-camera

>This ColdMOS, or cooled CMOS, sensor has an effective pixel array of 4656 x 3522 in a 4/3 format.

>>3084263

4/3 is a format.
4/3" is an incorrect measurement, in inches.

>>3084269
Im not following...

>>3084272

You're too young to remember.

File: M13_Stack_218frames_18s.png (432KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084082
I dunno what your own about but the Revolution Imager R2 is not a guider currently I don't own a mount that has good tracking nor do I have an auto guider I'm doing all this with a altazimuth mount the Orion Starseeker IV mount.

>>3084274
Im 35. Does your statement stand?

>>3084276
>being this young
kys my man

>>3084276

4/3 is actually 1.333...

It drives old men mad.

>>3084280

Actually, it's 8/6

>>3084280
In SI yes, but american measurements are retarded.

>>3084280
its funny because 4/3 is actually more precise than 1.333

File: stellarium_2017-05-27_21-58-55.png (1MB, 1680x1050px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3081033
>>3081044
I'm on the Swedish west coast, it never gets truly dark during the nights here and if I want to go somewhere with as little light pollution as possible I have to go really far up north, but then I get even more sunlight during the night.

This is what it looks like in Stellarium with the light pollution set to the lowest and Milky way brightness set to the highest, don't think I'm going to be able to shoot the Milky way from here.

>>3084286

No it isn't, because 1/3 is .333

>>3084284

It has nothing to do with the system used.

1/3 = .333 = 33.333% no matter if it is degrees, feet, meters, or dicks.

Also, how do you get away with calling something retarded when using a system that reaches 3/3 (1) and stays there, simply adding more thirds?

>>3084294
Yes it is. Those 1s add up in front, so as you go adding up it goe from 1.2 to 1.32 then 1.332 and so on to infinity, so it becomes 1.33333...
Same as 3x0.33333...=1

In the case of the 4/3 sensor:

If you're using the original system it refers to (inches) and the original format of all the measurements before it (tube sizes in fractions) then the actual correct way of writing it is:

1 1/3

>>3084294
>1/3 is .333
no. close, but no

>>3084301

It's true. Inches and fractions.

Correct way is 1 1/3

The only reason it is 4/3 is an arbitrary reference point to previous measurements.

>>3084303

>infinity
>close

Kek.

>4/3
>skipping 1

If we're skipping 1, what are the thirds of?

>>3084309

Thirds.

>>3084310
Looks like you don't quite understand basic elementary level maths. Back to school with you, kid!

>>3084284

>4/3 cm
>metric system is retarded

Is your mind blown?

>>3084309
>apocryphal sensor origin stories

>The imaging area of a Four Thirds sensor is equal to that of a video camera tube of 4/3 inch diameter.

The aspect ratio of the sensor is also 4:3.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_Thirds_system

>>3084333

Yeah, no shit, Anon.

>4/3 inch diameter

AKA 1 1/3 inch diameter.

What if it's a 7 1/3 inch sensor? Would you say 22/3 inch?

At which point do you move beyond the 3rds format and start acknowledging whole numbers? After all, you skipped 32nds, 16ths, 8ths, and 4ths to settle on 3rds.

>>3084336
Splitting hairs is a waste of time and money. You will learn soon enough, the hard way.

>>3084336

Fuji is coming out with a new medium format camera. It's the Macro 10/3

>>3084336
whenever anyone who wants does it the way they want and you cant tell them something which is objectively correct is wrong

>>3084355

Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?

File: 34933350575_dbf71d19d5_k.jpg (2MB, 2048x1366px) Image search: [Google]

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This is from last night/this morning

File: 34545958890_f52b75b0f2_k.jpg (2MB, 2048x1366px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084362

File: 34090091144_6400278094_k.jpg (1MB, 1363x2048px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084363

File: IMG_0548.jpg (2MB, 4272x2848px) Image search: [Google]

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Any advice taking pictures of Jupiter?

Perhaps I should avoid fulling extending my tripod.

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File: Catalina single.jpg (89KB, 1000x665px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084530
A good sturdy tripod is a must.
See example, it was taken on a tripod half extended and collapsed coloum but it was a shitty $50 one from Aldi. Look at the kidney stars.
For jupiter and other planetary objects, those are bright so faster shutter speed can be used to bring out bigger details, like moons and big surface details, depending on the imaging sensor and the telescope.

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Went out to take photos of starts, found out the northern lights here highly visible and dancing (due to a G2/3 storm). Here are some from the evening.morning. 45th parallel
1/5

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2/5

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File: DSC_3866K.jpg (2MB, 3872x2592px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3872x2592px

3/5

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3MB, 3872x2592px

4/5

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File: DSC_3949K.jpg (3MB, 3872x2592px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3872x2592px

5/5

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>>3084662
>>3084663
>>3084664
>>3084665
>>3084666
Very nice, especially the last one where the upper purple/IR columns are visible, but try adjusting the focus manually next time, look for a bright star in live view full magnification.

File: 12322919_1542307119119279_5059681473552185134_o.jpg (776KB, 2048x1365px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3080082
My Orion Nebulae with my old Nikon D 3100 I sold I wanna get a Canon 40D

>>3084831
Get a 60D instead, better for astro. If on a low budget, get an SL1, sensor performance is similar.

>>3084670
I didn't realize the last one was out of focus until i start snapping after an hour or so haha

>>3084670
Also: using a camera w/ no live. so its tough

>>3084859
Ah. That explains it. Does the lens have hyperfocal distance scale? If yes, use them, stop down a stop and you can guess the focus quite well.

>>3084305
but writing "4/3" is way easier to write than "1 1/3"
it only use 3 characters vs using 5 characters
plus 1 1/3 looks terrible
1⅓ is better, but is much more difficult to type
or maybe there should be a space: 1 ⅓
I dont even know

>>3084666
I would suggest using "long exposure noise reduction" if your camera supports it. On Sonys and Canons, and I assume everyone else, it just takes a dark frame with the shutter closed for the same amount of time as the exposure and subtracts it from the final image. Maybe other disagree with me, but I feel this is a perfectly acceptable example of in-camera processing, and it generally works with raws too. It would get rid of all those hot pixels in your images

Aurora settings advice?

>>3084892
Same as milky way settings.

>>3084896
Huh? They move...

>>3084898
You don't have to take the whole night for a single exposure. A few seconds of exposure time max. is enough depending on the lens used. Try a few settings then use the one with the best results for the night.

>>3084900
...you've never seen an aurora have you? Using a few second exposure on one is like using long exposure on fireworks. You'll just end up with a green (maybe purple) smear in the sky.

>>3084914
Look at the exifs above, genius, and use what you learned about the exposure triangle.

>>3084921
So you have no clue and are just an ass, gotcha.

>>3084931
Not who youre replying to, but whats hes saying is, the aurora photos above are, for example, using 10 and 13 second exposures

>>3084931
Dude, I have a solid clue and I can shoot a few test shots to dial in the settings in less than 2 minutes. You should do the same, but seeing you are asking such a basic thing you are a rookie.
I gave you good advice to start on, leave the shitty attitude. This is my last advice for you, BTW.

>>3084935
Yes, I know. And they're just green smears. I have a more than a few smear shots myself.
>>3084938
You keep showing your ignorance. During an aurora, you don't necessarily have a few minutes to dial in exposure. The last strong one I saw peaked in activity for almost a half minute before it receded back to being a faint glow. Yeah, some last longer, but you can't count on it. It's not like shooting the milky way where you can dick around for half the night. Add in that they're decently uncommon here, and it makes it that much more imperative to go in prepared.

>>3084945
Jesus Christ, why are you so dumb? Go out, get a suitable exposure of the starry sky with the desired exposure time, then write it down or save it in a custom setting. How much of an idiot do you have to be?

>>3084946
Like I said, a clueless ass.

>>3084948
You don't know how to use a camera? Okay.

>>3084951
I'm not the one who thinks an aurora is the same brightness as the night sky...

>>3084945
>Yes, I know. And they're just green smears.
Most Aurora shots are taken at 10-15 seconds. Some are longer exposures, even 30 seconds. Use 5 seconds then if you dont like what you are getting at 10 seconds

>I have a more than a few smear shots myself.
Post them

Also, quit acting like such a cunt

File: FB_IMG_1496001085511.jpg (61KB, 1080x720px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084954
And most are shit.

>quit acting like a cunt
Come at me with an attitude, while being exactly wrong, and I'm not going to be nice to you. A retarded monkey can get a shot of an aurora without any kind of detail.

>>3084959
You're the one with the attitude, shitlord

>>3084961
First bit of attitude/name calling >>3084921
Right there.

Prior to that, I was just trying to ascertain the level of knowledge because the guy is telling me to shoot it in a way that I know doesn't work for anything other than making it look like someone selected part of the sky, brightened it, then screwed with the tint to make it green. It's not my fault he cares about his e-reputation and being wrong while being vague about it. If you don't want to get called out for bullshitting someone, don't spew bullshit.

>>3084966
I called you a genius. Looks like it was for nothing.

File: Jupiter0004 17-03-20 02-06-26.jpg (37KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3084838
eh 60D is hard to find I don't feel like wasting money on a DSLR that has over 10k shutter counts used most of them are like $200+ for a used 60D I mean I woulld've paid maybe $400 for a new 60D but shit not a used one.

>>3085010
10k shutter is nothing, practically new. For astro even 50K or more is perfectly usable.

File: StarStaX_stars-time-lapse_20170528_01-stars-time-lapse_20170528_48_gap_filling.jpg (707KB, 1500x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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Just got done processing this. It's my first try using the stacking method for star trails. My goal was just to get this one made to test the process so I didn't worry much about finding an interesting foreground or anything like that.

48 images @ 50 seconds each (40 min total).

>>3084959
i was hoping for some exif data or some way to know what settings you used

I found this old telescope in my parents' attic.
I want to use it with my Nikon but I don't know anything about what kind of adapter to use.
Are telescopes universal or are there different kinds of fittings?

File: adapter.jpg (44KB, 554x506px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3086037
>old telescope
Measure the eyepiece diameter. If it's about an inch (0.965 in./24.5 mm) you probably won't find an adapter.

If it's 1.25 in./31.75mm get a T ring adapter and nose piece. Pic related is also a barlow lens (you can unscrew it). You may have to get them seperately.

File: IMG_1446.jpg (697KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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I always lived on the outskirts and thought that sky is okay here, today i drove a little bit further away from my place (~2km) and sky looked significantly better. How does light pollution "scales"? Should i expect tremendous differences if i'd try shooting some photos 20km from nearest big city instead of 10?

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>>3085036
star trail stacking is such an ugly meme. shit never looks good, suitable only for the cover of a middle school science textbook.

I downloaded RegiStax but never tried it yet. Suppose to auto-align multiple photos for greater detail. If the clouds ever move out of the way, I'd upload a moon photo here.

>>3080902
I almost want to make this my phone wallpaper

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What are the best lenses for astro photography? Only just got into it and my 70-200 is okay but id like to be able to get galaxy or nebula pictures or even something like saturn.

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>>3087183
telescope with dslr converter, just make sure you'll get eq mount because you're going to want telescope to move on its own in near future

>>3087191
what are some good entry telescopes?

>>3084362
>>3084363
>>3084364
what gear did you use for these?

>>3087194
Any telescope that's reflector (for cheapness, proper refractor is super expensive but faster in return), has a large mirror (>130mm) and has this equatorial mount should be alright for first steps. Just make sure it can handle DSLR converters, some telescopes have too long eyepiece regulation thingies and can't focus with dslr on it.

>>3087113
light drops off at a cubic rate so something double the distance has 8 times less light pollution.

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>>3080082
Happy day I made a down payment on my Celestron Advanced VX mount should hopefully have it after July 4th then hopefully I can start taking longer exposures.

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>>3080082
Why is it not possible to get color using Sharpcap when doing a live stacking can anyone explain?

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Noob here - I'm just getting into astrophotography and only have a nexstar 4se (read: I don't even have a DSLR camera)

I also just recently came into enough money to really get started

My question is: what should I be buying to get the most bang for my buck? I'd like to take some long exposure shots of DSOs. Is my telescope good enough and I just need to buy a camera? Is the mount good enough?

All I've been able to get so far is lunar shots like this by holding my cellphone up to the eyepiece, but I'd really like to start taking pictures like you guys.

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>>3090396
Get a Canon SL1 and a T-adapter, Star adventurer and a good tripod.
Alternatively a Pentax K-S2, O-GPS1, and a good tripod. The kit lens or an old M42 135mm lens is good enough for getting bigger (read: more interesting) nebula complexes like the Orion loop or Heart and Soul near the double cluster near Cassiopeia.
The Pentax solution offers a limited tracking and a tedious calibration but is compact and needs no polar alignment.
The Canon one is more tedious on polar alignment but will get you started well and will be used for more complex tasks later.
The DSLR in this case is the lesser important part, the good tracking mount is the main focus. I myself started the Pentax way because easier setup, still have that thing with me in case I want a bit of stargazing while /out/ but thinking about getting the Staradventurer mount for longer exposures.

File: m45.jpg (476KB, 2048x1365px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3090396
Honestly I'm just breaking to astrophotography It's not cheap and it's not easy requires a processing images that you take and stacking them to get them to come out decent.
I did
>>3087928
>>3088106
using the same mount your 4SE has problem with that mount is your gonna be limited to just 30 sec exposures before star trailing takes place.
I have a 5SE that I took them images with also it was a Revolution Imager R2 CCD
My picture of M45 with a Nikon D 3100 using a Orion Starseeker VI mount when I was just starting out lmao

>>3090396
A good entry-level setup would be a used Celestron Advanced VX mount and a used Triplet ED 80 Refractor you don't need a long focal length telescope to get good pictures a triplet refractor will run you eh? $400 or more used the Celestron Advanced VX mount will run you right now $799 if you get it off eBay in the US other sites might still be selling it for $799.
Or just hunt around on the cloudlynights classifieds and hope you can snag a used one for under $700 plus shipping I worked out a plan to get a used Celestron Advanced VX mount for $650 plus $25 shipping so I think I'll be pleased gonna see if my 5SE or my ES AR 102 works better on the mount I still need a autoguider and a guide scope.

god damn OP excellent work

every time i see this stuff I get the feels, like all that shit is out there and we're too busy arguing over petty shit

>>3091284

>too busy hauling vegetables

FTFY

Eyes on the road, faggot.

I came from /ic/ for landscape references and I have to say didn't know you guys take pictures of the sky. Great work, keep it up!!

>>3091284
I agree with this too. Nature and space are an inspiration.