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Is this lens fucked or it's just me?

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Thread replies: 13
Thread images: 2

File: DSC_2568_cr.jpg (4MB, 3476x2317px) Image search: [Google]
DSC_2568_cr.jpg
4MB, 3476x2317px
Just bought a Nikkor (55-200 VRII F/4-5.6G ED) for my D3300, made some test shots and it randomly does this weird shit - the photos look like they're made of two displaced layers or something like that. The camera wasn't shaking, the VR was on.

Never saw my basic kit glass doing anything similar to this.

Is it some flaw of this single particular lens? Should I return it?

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON D3300
Camera SoftwareVer.1.01
Maximum Lens Aperturef/4.8
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern860
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)195 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Created2017:05:06 07:36:32
Exposure Time1/125 sec
F-Numberf/9.0
Exposure ProgramNot Defined
ISO Speed Rating400
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModePattern
Light SourceUnknown
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length130.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width3476
Image Height2317
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeAuto
White BalanceAuto
Scene Capture TypeLandscape
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastNormal
SaturationNormal
SharpnessNormal
Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>>
are you sure that you used a fast enough shutter time?
>>
>>3070838
>1/125 sec
Do you even lift, son?
>>
>>3070838

>1/125th
>195mm equivalent

Rule of thumb is to never shoot a shutter speed slower than the focal length without a tripod especially with longer FL's. You can get away with slow speeds on hyper-wides and sometimes ultrawides.
>>
>>3070840
>>3070843
I'm certainly not a master of manual mode, but again - never saw shit of this kind before when shooting with a kit lens, no matter what preset, auto or manual. It happens too often and too randomly with this glass.
>>
>>3070845
So the problem is that I suck too much for anything that's not a basic 18-55?

Made me think.

Thanks for the answers, gents. Will try again.
>>
>>3070848

admission is the first step

Pro-tip, D3300 is a 1.5x crop sensor, don't shoot shutter speeds slower than 1.5 times the actual focal length, your 55-200 becomes like an 75-300 or something like that.

Learn some basic exposure parameters while you're at it. Looks like you were in greenbox mode.

>inb4 kys
>>
>>3070838
Seems like you have parkinson's, try faster shutter speeds.
>>
>>3070850
You giving advices is fucking rich but ,hey! Actually you aren't the usual piece of shit.
kys anyway

>>3070848
Basically, yes. Longer lens means more risk of lens shake. You're weak.
>>
>>3070838
honestly I always found that lens to be a soft piece of garbage. yes your technique could improve, but you will be disappointed even shooting from a tripod most of the time.
>>
Your technique is shit. You're probably stabbing at the shutter button when taking a picture. Give it a light press, and don't twist the camera when you press it. Support the lens at the mount area with your left hand. Bring your elbows in and tuck them into your body. Be relaxed, breathe easy. Take a breath, let half of it out, shoot.

VR isn't completely magic, but you should be able to make shots at 1/125 even at 300 equivalent. I've tested my 70-300 VR at 300 (450 equiv) down to 1/8 with VR. With care, you should easily be able to get down to 2/FL shutter speed, especially at shorter focal lengths. When you're out and about, 1/1.5-2FL shutter speed will always be safe.
>>
File: bird.jpg (687KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
bird.jpg
687KB, 1000x667px
I shot this with the same lens at 200mm and it's plenty sharp.
Learn how to hold and shoot your camera my dude.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON D3200
Camera SoftwareVer.1.03
Maximum Lens Aperturef/5.7
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern39048
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)300 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image Width1000
Image Height667
Compression SchemeUncompressed
Pixel CompositionRGB
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
Image Data ArrangementChunky Format
Image Created2017:05:06 22:11:28
Exposure Time1/1000 sec
F-Numberf/5.6
Exposure ProgramAperture Priority
ISO Speed Rating200
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModePattern
Light SourceUnknown
FlashNo Flash
Focal Length200.00 mm
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width1000
Image Height667
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeAuto
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlNone
ContrastNormal
SaturationNormal
SharpnessNormal
Subject Distance RangeUnknown
ISO Speed Used200
Image QualityFINE
White BalanceAUTO
Focus ModeAF-S
Flash Compensation0.0 EV
ISO Speed Requested200
Flash Bracket Compensation0.0 EV
AE Bracket Compensation0.0 EV
Lens TypeNikon G Series
Lens Range55.0 - 200.0 mm; f/4.0 - f/5.6
Shooting/Bracketing ModeSingle Frame/Off
Noise ReductionOFF
Camera Actuations1573
>>
Rule of thumb your focal length as your minimum shutter speed. If you shoot at 200mm, don't go slower than 1/200th.

There's a few ways around this. Since most of the shake comes from pressing the camera trigger you can take two shots in continuous, the first one is more likely to be blurry but the second is more likely to be sharp. You can also get a monopod or anything firm to rest your camera on, like your knee. Tuck your arms in when you take your pictures. Control your breathing, when you take pictures, everything helps.

The further the zoom, the more noticeable to camera shake.

>Use a high focal length
>Shoot a shutter speed no slower than the reciprocal of your focal length
>Use a monopod/tripod to stabilize your camera.

Choose two if you want a sharp picture.
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 2


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