Film General Thread

I gotta say, as much as I like how the nice 100 speed films look, sometimes I really hate being stuck with 100 speed film as soon as any light levels fall, or you're in the shade. Fug.

I like Provia and Ektar a lot, but I'm going to just shoot 400H and Portra for the rest of my life at this rate.

stupid question: using a minolta srt 101, light meter doesnt seem to work? how do i turn it on

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>>3057674
I feel ya. I just wish there were other options in 120. 400H is beautiful but expensive, and I just can't get into Portra. I'm burning through Provia 400X at a pretty alarming rate these days.

>>3057660
I have exclusively shot Tri-X for the past few years, if you could only shoot only one color film what would it be?

Shooting my first roll of Ilford HP5. Any do's or don'ts?

>>3057674
B&W affords you a lot more flexibility, if that's something you'd be interesting.

Pushing and stand development work really well on B&W

>>3057719
Bleh. I've tried B&W, but it's not my thing. I shoot what I see, and what I see is in colour, so a lot of my B&W ends up not making any sense.

Also, red filter + 400 speed isn't really all that much different from 100 speed film.

Fujica ST605 for 12 bucks

Or Minolta X-370 for 20 with two cheap lenses?

I have both minolta and m42 lenses already, but no working film SLR.

What one would you guys get?

The minolta dude says barely used, the photos even has a booklet and and a flash, the Fujica also appears to be in good shape but the sellers reason is he is too old and has too many cameras.

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Are cd scans that I can get when I get my film developed worth it?

Seems somewhat low-rez (I think it said like 2 mp?), but i figure they can be a rough guide for when I do my manual scans. Though it does take a day instead of an hour.

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>>3057740
If they cost you anything, not really. I sometimes get them for free because my friend works at a lab, and although the quality isn't great they're useful as a sort of contact sheet. You can instantly see which shots are worth scanning.

>>3057714
Don't stick the film in your butthole, it might get stains. Do open the back of your camera sometimes when shooting, you'll get awesome blacks in your shots.

is thedarkroom a good service?

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>>3057737
Meneltas are trash.
Fujicas are not.
You don't get open aperture metering on the 605 though.

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>>3057765
>open aperture metering
Retarded question but what is that and why does it matter?

>>3057767
Looking through the viewfinder with the lens stopped down to f16 makes it super dark and very hard to focus.

Open aperture metering means the lens stays wide open even when set to f16 or whatever, and will meter for that aperture, but will only stop down the lens when you actually take the photo.

>>3057771
I see, and Mineltas are bad even if they have this feature?

>>3057773
They're not bad, but they were made to a price point. They were cheap cameras in the day, so why buy one now?

Film cameras as a whole are extremely cheap, so you might as well get something decent.

>>3057774
I suppose I can wait a bit longer and get something nicer.

I'm penny pinching, as its my first serious foray into film, but I also want my film experience to exceed my expectations.

>>3057759

It costs $4 instead of $2 to get the CD.

I will probably just not get it next time. Having to wait is torture.

>>3057767
Well like most cameras, the light meter starts with the half press of the shutter button.
Normally, the camera can see how much light is coming though the lense, and can use that information to decide what your shutter speed should be set to to make a correct exposure with that amount of light.
If you want to stop your lense down at all though, the camera needs to know what you've set it to, and also what the aperture number is wide open, so it can take the light it has, and work out what number to divide it by, before it can tell what shutter speed will be appropriate when the aperture closes to take the shot.
Most M42 mount cameras have no way of reading that information from the lense, so in order to meter correctly for anything other than wide open, they need to physically close the aperture first. So there's a little stop down button next to the lense that does that. But of course that makes your viewfinder go dark, and is just one more step.
The other camera in my photo is a 705, it has a little feeler tab on it that reads where your aperture dial is set, on matching Fujinon M42 lenses. This gives it open-aperture metering capability, but only with matching lenses. It's practically the same camera besides that.

>>3057775
If you're penny pinching, anything by Pentax will be good as well as cheap. You mentioned you had m42 lenses, so there are a number of Pentax bodies that will suit your needs.

If you want to start a new system and want something good, the Nikon F series are widely considered the best film SLRs ever. These were made for the professional market back in the day, and are amazing to use. I owned a Nikon F3 a couple years back and strongly regret selling it.

If you want to go for a rangefinder but don't want to spend Leica money, buy a Canon. These went toe-to-toe with Leica in features and build quality for a shitload less cash. They have metal shutter curtains instead of fabric, so they won't burn or break like the Leicas. The rangefinder mechanism is a lot more reliable, and requires calibration a whole lot less often. They also use the same lens mount as the leica (L39 / leica thread mount). I'm currently using a Canon P from the late 1950s and it is a joy to use, and cost me ~$150 usd with a 50mm lens

>>3057737

Get both, they are dirt cheap.

The X-370 is a made in China, stripped down X series camera.

You'd be better off getting an X-500 or SLT Minolta camera.

anyone have experience with using mastin lab presets? i don't have the time to develop film anymore because work needs instant footage and was looking into the ilford presets for LR.

>>3057674
Agree completely. 100 speed film probably makes sense as an everyday stock if you live somewhere like California or Australia but for the rest of us...not so much!

>>3057793
I'm not a fan, the VSCO ones are better in my opinion. The Mastin Labs Portra one is just so muddy

>>3057691
have you put in the correct battery? There's also a little dial on the bottom you have to twist into the right position. If both fail, you have one with a broken light meter. Either get a new one, or get an external light meter (phone app works too)

>>3057674
Just shoot at 1.4 all day.

>BOKEHMASTER

>>3057780
Have you shot Leica? Closest to recommend would be the Bessa R series, but Canon is a little different. I'd say it's hard to get the rangefinder misaligned if you care a little for your camera, but if it gets a bump that's hard enough to misalign the rangefinder, it won't matter if it's a Leica, Canon or Bessa.
I'd recommend getting a Bessa R2 for the very good built in meter and great viewfinder. Bessa R2, not R for m-mount, which also allows you to use ltm lenses, wheras at Canon you're stuck with ltm lenses.

>>3057847
Yeah I owned a Leica M2 for a good period of time before selling it due to necessity. I ended up picking the Canon P since it exists in the same sort of era as the M2. I would say that the Canon is 90% as good as the M2 overall, much better in a lot of ways (film loading and exposure counter) and worse in a lot of ways too (viewfinder and rangefinder are less good).

I could never get into the Voigtlanders for some reason. To me they don't offer a lot over the Canon rangefinders and they're a good deal more expensive.

I'm quite happy with the ltm system, lenses are generally cheaper than M-Mount.

>>3057854
Shot a Bessa R for some time and actually, the viewfinder is as bright as the one on my Leica. Shooting M4 now and the quickloading is pretty simple. True, ltm are probably enough, but I like to have the option of shooting e.g. Summicron 4.
Anyway, I guess you're right and for a beginner a Canon P, Canon 7, or Bessa R + 35 or 50mm is enough. The only problem is that these usually don't hold value that well and if you want to upgrade, you're paying twice.
If you haven't tried/gotten it already, I strongly recommend the CV 21mm.

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What are your guys' thoughts on Portra? I finally got my scans from a roll of 400 last week, and I'm deciding whether or not to stick with the stock.

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>>3057871
I like 400 for its latitude and nice colors.

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>>3057871
I can't seem to get the colors correct for the life of me in post. Don't have a problem with any other film. Your example looks damn nice though.

>>3057854
I bought a Voigtländer Vitomatic IIa as my first rangefinder, after using various slr systems for a longer time. It was very cheap (€40) so I just picked it up because for that money you can't really go wrong.

Would you think they are inferior cameras or just overpriced?

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>>3057882
I have a Vitomatic with the Color-Skopar lens. The light meter isn't reliable at all, you don't want to rely on it. Either shoot sunny 16 or carry something else to meter with. The aperture-shutter-setting ring is a bit weird to use at first but handy once you get used to it. The lens is nothing to write home about, pretty soft even when stopped down to f/8. It was an affordable compact of its era, after all. Lastly, the camera is small but surprisingly heavy and built like a tank. If you can deal with having no reliable light meter, it's an affordable and mechanically reliable beginner's camera.

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Question about doing double exposures manually on slrs (minolta srt 101 in my case):
I know that you have to advance the lever while holding the film with the rewind knob and pressing the rewind button to be able to take a second exposure, however doesn't the act of tightening the film with the rewind knob slightly displace the frame position so that the second exposure doesn't exactly line up?

Also do I need to give each exposure only half the amount of light I normally would?

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>>3057796
Basically this. I live in Britain and 100 is a nightmare. I fly to California once a year though so I'll just keep my 100 films for when I go there

>>3057740
depends on the place that develop your film. The place I go to upload high, medium and low res scans so it's worth it for me

>go on a trip
>take film
>be excited to take non touristy photos
>end up taking the same touristy photos like always
god damn

>>3057931
Ideally it shouldn't move, as the rewind release should disconnect the rewind level totally. But if it moves slightly, well no biggie, part of the deal. If it needs to be exact, shoot each one individually and merge in post, or shoot digital and merge in post.
You can expose each one as usual.

>>3057933
Germany here, south yurop and may around here are nice for 100. But you're right, it's not really for the constant overcast regions unless you take the tripod everyday.

>>3057931

You should probably close the back of the camera first.

What home developing kit would you recommend?

>>3057959
C41: Tetenal Color kit
BW: Rodinal + Ilford Rapidfix

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Can't post this on the RPT, it's from 18 months ago.

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Have another.

>>3057933
>>3057935
Up here it's 13 hour days already. 100 ISO all day err day. Get on my latitude, plebs.

>>3057933
what ISO do you suggest for england? I'm going to london in a month and want to bring some film

>>3057974
13 hours or so here too but it's fucking overcast/raining all the time.
I swer on me mutti.
That said, contrasty overcast clouds is nice for architecture.

>>3058004
Not him, but 400 for color.

>>3058004
When it's sunny I love my FP4 125, but the real problem here is how changeable the weather is. You can easily get soaked and sunburnt in the same day then back again. A 100 speed roll of film would be fine while the suns out but when the clouds come you'd want something faster. I'd say go with 400 and you can rate it at whatever you feel, just shoot with it however and compensate in development cos it'll do nice light and shite light equally. Plus if you're in London you'll be in and out of the tube so go faster, but pick a versatile stock with good latitude.

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Posting some recents

P67
Acros 100

I have money for a travel project and am estimating to shoot 80-120 rolls of C41 120 in 6x6. The best deal I've found is also conveniently near where I will return home, it is $8.75/roll for processing + 1000x1000 pixel scans. Is it worth jumping up to $24/roll for 4800x4800 tif scans? Should I just be processing and scanning on my own with this many rolls?

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End

Anyone else getting tiny white spots on color negatives? Thought those might come from stab, but I'm not sure. Shall I do a final rinse with distilled water?

>>3058024
>>3058029
>>3058034
>>3058035
I like these

>>3058033
Yeah just use the small scans to find the keepers and scan them individually with higher resolution. 6x6 can be done well on a flatbed so it won't be too expensive.

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>>3058033
Scan that shit at home boy

canoscan gang

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>>3058044
jesus m8 colour correct that shit

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>>3058047
I would definitely do it if it wasn't from an expired roll [spoiler]and I kinda like it this way[/spoiler]

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What are some good film photography youtube channels?

>>3058011
Uh, sorry, slip of the finger there. Meant 15 hours. It was 13 a couple of weeks ago.

But yeah, only thing that's missing is some fucking foliage. There's a limit to how much I'm gonna be arsed to scan yesteryear's rotting treetrunks, mossy rocks, and I guess that one that was once a squirrel that died over winter, to mature into a ripe old squirrel carcass.

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>>3058033
Doing something similar. Fuck no it isn't worth jumping up to the higher res scans. You'll be lucky to get a 30% keeper rate on Your rolls. You'll be paying for high res scans on shit photos. Do the cheapest option and then pay for individual scans after going through your shots and selecting keepers.

>>3058024
>>3058024
>>3058026
>>3058031
These are naice.

Whats the best option for scans on thedarkroom?

>>3057710
bump

>>3058249

Kodak UltraMax 400

>>3057710
Ektar 100. It'll shape up any sloppy exposure habits you have since the dynamic range is relatively small

is thedarkroom worth the $22 a roll?

>>3058324
Holy shit, is that what they charge? Jesus Christ that's expensive. Why does everyone seem to recommend them?

>>3058333

Extreme Shilling

>>3058333

Wait is that to develop?

>>3058042
>>3058213
Cheers fellas

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>>3057660

So I got my first test roll back for my X-500. Just snapshits around the block really.

First roll of film I have shot since I was like 12 in the 90s.

I haven't done proper fullframe scans yet, but I have the low rez image cd thing. I will post three of the less bad ones.

They all do need some cropping and pp though.

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>>3058411

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>>3058412

I blew out the sky on every picture (especially this one). Not sure if it was because I metered at the wrong spot (most likely), or thanks to the ugly overcast solid white sky that day.

Hoping I can do something with them with a proper scan, but a glance at the negative makes me doubt it.

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Some Acros 100 from Easter Sunday. Fast becoming my favorite film

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>>3058414
and another

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Threadly reminder that HP5 is shit!
SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIT

!>>3057714
Don't.

>>3058431
Why do you think it's shit?

>>3058411
>>3058412
>>3058413
Is guarantee you'll get some highlight detail with different scans (dslr?), negative colour film has a huge amount of reporicity for over exposure there'll definitely be detail to pull out of it.

>>3058451

Good, I was hoping it was just low rez scan issues, but it was hard to tell from just looking at a negative.

I will get my film holder in a week or two then give it another shot.

Can you recommend me a scanner for 6x9 negatives for under 250€?

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>>3057871
Had some nice shots (this and next post) but I prefer general purpose films like colorplus 200. I find their colors a lot more vibrant

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>>3058478
>>3057871

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Repost bc im incompetent.

>Can you recommend me a scanner for 6x9 negatives for under 250€?

>"Scanning" with a DSLM sucks

>>3057710

Kodachrome

It gives us the nice bright colors

Gives us the greens of summer

Makes you think all the world's a sunny day oh yeah

>>3058491

Link to buy that scanner?

>>3058506
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaroid-HD-Slide-Duplicator-With-Macro-Lens-Capabilty-For-SLR-Cameras-/132133908110?hash=item1ec3cb6e8e:g:2vgAAOSwYXVY0P0Y

+a lens adaptor and 2 macro extension tubes for my rokkor md 50 1.4

>>3058506

and a 55 to 52 mm step down ring

>>3058506

You'll also need another negative holder, as the one in the box is only for framed dias

Mine is from KAISER.
I cant find a link atm.

>>3058518

The included macro lens is crap and unneeded.

>>3058518
>>3058520
>>3058522
>>3058524

Using a lightpad and tripod now, and it is an absolute pain in the ass to get things lined up.

Thought that might be better, but on second thought, I am not sure how well it will work with my 90mm lens.

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ultramax 400 pushed to 1600

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>>3058544

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>>3058431
Panf is the only good ilford.

What lenses would you recommend for a Canon A1?

>>3058555
What's wrong with hp5?

>>3058544
>>3058549
got any portraits/close up of people? interested in skin tones when pushed

>>30576

>HP5 SUX
Fuck off kid. If it "sux" as you so aptly put it, it's because you don't know how to shoot, or meter, or dev or all three. It's one of the most forgiving emultions out there and gives fantastic results exposed from 200 to 3200 in *insert favourite developer here*

If you don't like it it's because you're doing it wrong

>>3057765
You also know nothing. Minolta>fujica in every aspect and all eras

>>3057774
Minolta was an industry leader back in the day. Srt through x series and up to the alphas - pretty much all the bodies are top notch. Rokkor glass is incredible. What you talking fool?

>>3057760
they're okay for B/W or weird formats, somewhat expensive for 35mm C41.

>>3058248
the 'enhanced' 35mm scans were okay to me.

>>3058581
I concur; I've had satisfactory results from HP5+ EI1600 in Microphen. A compromise in any other direction would've been worse.

Also, fuck recaptcha.

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>>3058579

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>>3058605
outdoor

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Portra 160 or Ektar 100?
I'll be shooting at box speed because I'm still quite new and not confident to push/pull

>>3058607
Portra will be a bit more forgiving than Ektar. In general you should err on the side of over-exposure, but Ektar is a bit more sensitive and should not be overexposed to much.

>>3058607
Don't use Ektar if you're taking photos of white people. The skin tones are disgusting.

File: house.png (966KB, 800x640px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3057706
I somehow feel like that grass shouldn't be there.

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>>3058612
Rule of thirds would work as well.

>>3058544
That seems like a big push. Whats the reasoning behind it? And can any film do that?

File: 5x7.png (899KB, 800x572px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058614
...or both.

>>3058618
Pushed because I wanted access to higher shutter speeds and higher f-stops to do street photography, as well as shot a lot of shots indoors with not as much light. My decision to push was not for artistic value.
Shooting on the move -->Higher shutter speed to prevent blur
Not much time to focus on instant moments --> Higher F stop to have a higher chance of producing a usable image that has the subject mostly in focus.

Any film can be pushed and pulled because it happens in the development process.

>>3058609
>>3058610
Thanks. I plan to buy either (or both) when I go to California and I'll mostly be taking landscape/building/city shots

File: nbhdhfy.jpg (2MB, 1330x2000px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058544
200 pushed great for me to 800. I gotta scan more I only have the same photo I've posted before. The skin tones of 200 gold pushed was very nice.

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>>3058623
>higher shutter speeds and higher f-stops
>indoors with not as much light
Oh ok cool thanks.

when I want to stay home I dont have much light so knowing this will be helpful

Would you have to tell your developer (if you go to one) that a few shots were pushed?

Does anyone have experience with 6x6 ikontas?

>>3058627
Pushing and pulling is done per roll. Done per shot is exposure compensation.

>>3058627
When you push a roll of film, it applies to the entire roll. Most developers should have the capability to push. When you drop off or send film to them you simply tell them which roll was pushed. 400-->800 is +1 400--->1600 is + 2. Pull is 400-->200 or 100. I recently went to a developer that did not have pushing capabilities, so they had to refer me to a lab that did.

Be careful, because pushing also changes the characteristics of the film. Just refer to google for references to different film stocks pushed and pulled.

>>3058629
Oh lol Im dumb..

>>3058631
No just learning mate it's ok. Things are pretty basic on film when you think about it because it's all physical and chemical. The tripfags has good explanations too.

just realised I accidentally had my camera on stop-down. Am I fucked?

>>3058636
not at all. what film?

>>3058661
superia 200

>>3058662
it should come out fine. if you're worried about it, just ask your developer to push it

File: Kodak_6031470_35mm_Color_Plus_200_123787.jpg (325KB, 2500x2500px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3057660
Hey Guys, I just started using film and i picked a cheap kodak colorplus 200 and loaded it in a pentax mx with a 50mm 1.7 lens. I know its not the most premium film but believe for someone starting like me its going to be fine since i only want to be a photographer as a hobby .
-From a hobbyists perspective that likes the art and the work behind a photograph is film a better choice?
-Does anyone else has any experience with that film?
-There are seminars here that teach Photography and how to use the dark room! Do you think its wise to participate? i would really like to develop but also sometime in the future print my own B&W or color prints.
- What are some things that i should do to be more efficient with film? Is it bad to just burn through the whole roll while out practicing? And i dont mean in a dslr way of snapping everything 10 times .

File: colorplus-200-015.jpg (516KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058672
It can look nice, but try not to underexpose it.
Practise is never bad.

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Where you get your film developed /p/? I have been going to a local place but the prices seem to really steep. I'm considering using mpix for the digitals and then printing the shots I really like. Developing rolls should be around 5-6 dollars for digitals.

File: Straßburg-colorplus-200-023.jpg (439KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058675
Some more colorplus. Saw this guy at Straßburg last weekend and took a snap.

>>3058677
Develop it yourself, neither bw, nor c41 is hard to do.

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>>3058035
>>3058034
>>3058029
>>3058026
Double tap this shit, mane. Good stuff.

File: fujifilm agfa.jpg (38KB, 1081x399px) Image search: [Google]

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> Fujifilm Agfa
what's up with the recent illiteracy in those anal tog groups?

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>>3058566
Any of the native Canon primes? I've yet to come across a bad one. The 50mm Macro may be the sharpest lense I've ever used.
If you want a zoom, we learn from the scriptures that the 35-70/4 is also good.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/fd/35-70mm-f4.htm

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>>3058612
>>3058614
>>3058621
Respectfully disagree.

Anyone wanna buy this? $340 shipped worldwide. $420 with the film. I've sold things to a few /p/ fellas before.

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>>3058701
Agfa Vista is Fuji Superia.
https://dexter.pcode.nl/?dx=806253

>>3058706
but calling it Fuji Agfa is still weird

>>3058710
absolutely

>>3058675
Thats a really nice shot! What about underexposing it? some of my shots were actually overexposed and still they were looking pretty good :)

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>>3058672
It's my main general purpose film. Cheap, with nice tones and a lot fun to use

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>>3057922
Thanks, especially for the light meter tip, I'd probably have wasted a roll if I wouldn't have known. It seems to be a problem with a lot of older selenium based honeycomb light meters, but less so on those kept shielded from light most of the time, so I'm hoping that's the case. I have a first-generation Trip-35 that is spot on, but a lot of others are all over the place. I'm hoping to get into rangefinders because taking an slr isn't always an option. Now I just use an OM-1 with a 50mm lens for those situations which is almost as small, but well, I just want to use a rangefinder.

Thanks again and may I ask which film you used in your pic?

>>3058717
Thanks. As most color negative films it handles overexposure well, but when underexposed it becomes grainy and to me it also looks like it gets a greenish tint.

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>>3058721
>>3058675
>>3058717
I'm >>3058718 . I usually underexpose it by a third or two of a stop and never really had problems

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>>3057660
Need /p/s opinion, is the Canon FTb QL a meme or a good film camera. Found one for $35.

File: Kodak_6031330_35mm_Ektar_100_Color_585497.jpg (276KB, 2000x2000px) Image search: [Google]

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Anyone have the hook up on this shit? I wanna buy bulk...

>>3058544
can i push 400 to 1000? I want to be able to get action shots without having to worry about slower speeds blurring stuff up

>>3058718
>>3058723

When I shoot colorplus, I get the same "washed-out" look in trees like in these pictures. Can anyone explain what causes this?

File: yToky3927.jpg (177KB, 800x620px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058705
I totally would.. if I didn't already have one. I've taken my best pictures with this camera.

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>>3058748
Consult the scriptures, my child.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/canon/fd/ftb.htm
>The Canon FTb is an unusually practical match-needle body for use with all FD, FL and R lenses.
>It's shutter is super-smooth and its meter works much better than most other similar cameras of its era.
>Especially if you value a real depth-of-field preview, a center-weighted meter, mirror lockup, a finder screen optimized for fast lenses and a vibrationless shutter, the Canon FTb is $50 well spent.

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>>3058830
It's a fantastic system honestly. I just like my GA645 more. If you want manual focus + exposure its the bomb.

>>3058705
pretty tempting tbqh
esp if 420aud :^)

>>3058863
>>3058863 #
I could do 530AUD shipped so long as you pay the conversion fee for it to wind up as $400USD net in my account.

File: set.png (962KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

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Was at a relatives house for Easter, they said they were going spring cleaning, found this, then gave it to me...

File: lens.png (1MB, 797x1060px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058940
Lens sadly isnt Minolta brand glass, some old department store I guess but its nice. Ill try it out this weekend.

>>3058940

It is a pretty good body, never heard of the lenses.

Put some cheap Superia 400 in it and give it a shot.

File: img457.jpg (441KB, 1199x1799px) Image search: [Google]

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Have been shooting exclusively film since I'm poor and couldn't afford a DSLR, but am getting a D7100 soon.

>>3058967
>shoot exclusively film
>poor

u wot m8

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>>3058967

Full Frame DSLR owner here.

Film is totally more expensive. Maybe not initial gear costs, but each roll is costing me like $15.

Plus I had to spend a decent amount to get a good scanning rig set up.

File: img468.jpg (297KB, 1199x1799px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3058968

lol, mainly Ilford HP5+, which is like 4.50/roll; the chems to develop I got through Adorama which were fairly inexpensive. The first few rolls were completely shit, because I just kind of shot and point at everything. Now, only MOST of the roll is shit.

>>3058969

I realized that the cost of buying good film and getting it developed would be totally unaffordable if I stuck with color, so I have mostly worked in black-and-white. I decided to use the money I could spare to buy better glass, and eventually get a DSLR.

Was tempted by the D7500 that just released but honestly, 4k video is the only big improvement and I don't see a need for that.

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>>3058972

I could never get into black and white. I like color too much.

Just never clicked for me.

As for digital I went with a mirrorless camera. I can adapt all my film lenses (and autofocus a bunch of them) and most of them work great.

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>>3058723
1/3-2/3 is compensating to me, I ment underexpose by more than a stop. Even Portra 400 doesn't handle -2 well.

>>3058989
>Sony tumour AF adapter.

I still wonder how well it works, I have a few old Minolta's like you but it seems like such a strange contraption.

Good film to shoot a protest?

something high speed

Tri-X or HP5 pushed to 800 or 1600 with a flash would work well for night shooting. Otherwise if it's during the day anything 400 speed and up would work fine.

Bring a reasonably wide angle lens and a flash

>>3059005
meant for
>>3059000

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>>3058996

It works pretty well. Fumbles a little in low light, but overall pretty nice. It is certainly no a99ii, but I hear it is similar in AF speed to the a77. I have never used a Sony SLT, so I really couldn't tell you.

I used the tumor adapter and the Secret Handshake for travel for about a year until I got a native zoom. No complaints at all with speed.

I have been using the Techart Pro adapter with MD lenses most recently actually.

>>3059005
>>3059006
Sounds good thanks. Also do you have any recs on a good flash for a cold shoe mount? Preferably for very cheap.

File: rollei_agfa_81040123_infrared_400_black_and_1139495.jpg (282KB, 2500x2500px) Image search: [Google]

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Is this shit any good for infrared?

>>3058699
Thanks mate

>>3058940
The only thing worse than getting a Menelta is getting an XtraGay-1.

>>3058996
Wait, they have a new adapter coming, the old adapters are band aid solutions for bodies without the faster ospdaf.

>>3059009
Most old flashes have PC connections.
They're also very cheap.
Just find some old Hanimex or Metz or Sunpak in an opshop.

>>3059033
>the old adapters are band aid solutions for bodies without the faster ospdaf.

The LA-EA3 already supports ospdaf on newer bodies.

Unfortunately it only works with newer SSM and SAM lenses, it has no motor to control screw driven Minolta lenses.

File: Fuji64T_001.jpg (1MB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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Self portrait on expired af Fuji chrome 64T.

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>>3058578
It's shit.

>>3058555
>>3058431
>>3059091
confirmed for never shooting hp5 at 800.
or for trying to dev it in rodinal--
anyways you probably deserve missing out on a great emulsion..

>>3059057
Looks cool but damn are you going for cheesy rapist in the park vibes, damn m8. Gotta loosen up you look as tense as a fucking statue. (Still jelly tho)

File: IMG_0692.jpg (135KB, 720x1082px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3057660
Holy fucking shit mates. I bought a minty as Super Ikonta IV tessar f/3.5 but it had the old sticky shutter at lower speeds. So I opened it up and fucking hell who designed these things, they're so compact and all mechanical it blows my mind almost. Anybody use a super ikonta before?

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Are the old 120 folders worth it? I'd like to buy a rangefinder one but I'm not sure about the image quality of the old lenses.
Also which models do you guys recommend?
I hear that the Zeiss, Voigtländer and Agfa ones are nice but do you have any other brands to recommend? Which japanese ones from this era are good?.

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>>3059104
Hahahahahah. It was pissing rain and about 7C. Stiff as a statue sums it up.

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>>3059109
they are basically mechanical computers.

>>3059109
How is the viewfinder in Super Ikonta? I was bidding on one last weekend but got sniped in the end.

File: Provia400X_004.jpg (727KB, 748x1000px) Image search: [Google]

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Provia 400X is god film.

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>>3059113

Fuji GF670

>>3059134
Too expensive for a poor ass student like me.
t. >>3059113

>>3059120
Pretty small but easily useable.

>>3059113
I'm the ikonta guy just a couple posts up, but they seems dank af.

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First film photos done developing. No longer a film virgin.
They are all on a CD, but I dont have a CD drive. Anyway, this one was just scammed with a photo scan app.

Im just happy the camera works and it did things correct.

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>>3058532

I tried sth like this before, with my tablet as a light source. Didnt worked out that well...I saw every pixel of the tablets screen on the "scans".

>>3059032
ur the xtragay 1

fuck, man, i finally find a canoscan 2700 with tray and then realize scsi adapters are buku money

>>3059175
fuck it man i'll just get a 55 macro lens and DSLR scan

>>3058843

I thought everyone hated ken rockwell?

Also, why is everyone hating on HP5+?

>>3059191
BEHEAD ALL THOSE WHO INSULT ROCKWELL (pbuh)

>>3059191
although he almost only praise the gear he "reviews", its a really good detailed database on photo equipment with lots of useful info

What lens would you recommend for mainly architecture/building/landscape photos

>>3059057
How does film manage to be so saturated and high contrast without hurting your eyes?

File: IMG_0397.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

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Hey guys I just recently bought a vivitec tec45 at a thrift store and everything seems to be working but I had a few questions since i'm pretty new to film photography.

First off what do the buttons at the bottom of the film do? (pic related)

and second off, I put the batteries in and while the camera is off, it is still showing the "E" symbol for no film (its empty). Will this drain the batter and is it supposed to be off when the camera is off?

Thanks

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Here's the camera, do you guys have any info on this model or the company? I couldn't seem to find any. Also any tips would be appreciated

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Here's the E symbol. Sorry about the sideways pictures. like I said, I'm a noob

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>>3059215
The buttons are for rewinding the film. I would guess 1 unlocks the rollers and 2 makes the motor rewind. The E simply means there's no film inserted. The tiny liquid crystal display doesn't consume power worth the tiniest crap.

Vivitar is a known third party maker of lenses and cameras, mostly manufactured by someone else and then rebranded by Vivitar. Yours is another one of the cheap point and shoots they had on the market, probably from some Japanese manufacturer like Cosina. Don't expect stellar quality from it, but it should make a fun point and shitter.

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>>3059100
>missing out
>on hp5
Nice try Ilford shill, you can't fool me.

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>>3059158

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>>3059239

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>>3059241
>>3059239
>>3059158
what film were you using? really like these

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>>3059244
I just used "FUJI SUPERIA X-tra 400"

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>>3058704
>the 35-70/4 is also good.
Thanks, just bought one. Will buy the macro next month

>>3057973
i really dig this one. love how the light falls on to the branches, here's a palm tree in new zealand

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where do i buy film? i inherited a 70 year old minicord 3 and i want to use it. i only have some experience with photography

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>>3059113
>Are the old 120 folders worth it?
I've got like a zillion cameras, shop extensively for them, always searching secondhandies, and I've inspected dozens of these.
I've only found 1 (one) that wasn't fucked, and that's only because it is a dead simple one, no rangefinder, 3 shutter speeds, manual cocking, knob wind, and it had been kept in its box for the last 70 years, by the look of it. Even then, the lense is garbage, and the focus calibrations on the front standard are miles off. It's an Ensign 6x9 with a Rapid Rectimat (I think) f/8. I paid $120 for it, I get better negs out of box brownies.

The Zeisses are always broken. Also, the lenses are made of cheese grade glass, so if it's been used, it's rubbed to shit, and also the bellows will be shagged.

If you can find one that's in LNIB condidtion, and film tested, then by all means I'm sure it will be a lovely camera, but there are just way too many ways for them to fuck up from me to gamble on an ebay one.

>dat Konishiroku Pearl IV doe

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>>3059359
forgot pic

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>>3059365
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goerz_Minicord

Fuck, that's cool.
Unfortunately your only options are to
>find old 16mm stock on ebay, and 16mm cartridges on ebay, and load the cartridges yourself
>buy new 16mm stock from Kodak, for eyewatering prices, and ebay old cartridges, and load them yourself
>pay eyewatering prices for vintage 16mm cartridges preloaded with cut down modern film stock from Blue Moon
I would go with option 3 unless you're a very capable darkroom operator already.
http://www.bluemooncamera.com/inventory.php?menuID=4&catID=500&deptID=509
Call or email them first before buying anything, I'm sure they'll be happy to help you.

>>3059373
thanks a ton. i wanna try to take some nostalgic looking pictures with it but i also dont wanna be broke to do that haha. thanks a bunch

>>3058607
Don't push c41 films. You can give a bit of overexposure (⅓-½ stop) and just have the lab dev normally. Or just shoot at box speed but me, I always give my negs a bit of extra light.

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>>3058023
>>3058024
>>3058026
>>3058027
>>3058029
>>3058031
>>3058035
>>3058034
Damn brother

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>>3059389
/2
Really cannot get good results out of XTOL and HP5, any recommendations? I've tried it pulled, pushed, nothing seems to pop

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Finally dusted off/put new batteries in my old XA2, fun thing to shoot with. I'll post a few snapshits

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