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Film General Thread

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>Old Thread >>3039531
>This is the Film General Thread: "Spring" Edition.
>This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game. Let's fill this thread with images so please include an image with your post.
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>Any post without an image attached should be ignored because the poster is obviously incompetent.

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Any of you with a P67 use one of theses 35mm panoramic adaptors? They look pretty neato
>>
>>3044062
That'd be awesome. Wonder how the frame spacing works.
>>
>>3044068
It wouldn't be much different, you just have to set it to the 220 counter and you get 18 exposures from a 36 exp roll apparently
>>
>>3043931
>How fast we talking? 200 gold can be pushed to 800. Portra 400 to 1600
justmoronicthings.jpg2000
>>
Just copped a GS645S for $215. Dunno why it went so cheap.
>>
>>3044097
Bellows are probably full of holes and the shutter ring is gonna be really stiff
There's a dude on eBay that sells fresh bellows $100, you could probably replace them yourself if your handy
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>>3044101
It doesn't have bellows, it's the Darth Vader looking version with the 60mm.
>>
What are some rare discontinued film stocks or stocks only available to Japan that aren't just your regular Industrial?
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>>3044107
The only ones I'm aware of that are still produced only for the Japanese market are:

35mm
>Fuji Industrial
>Fuji Natura

120
>Fuji Provia 400X

220
>Fuji Velvia (not sure if you can get this elsewhere)

4x5
>Fuji Velvia 50

There's tons of weird, expired shit on the auction sites, but you need an account and address.

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>>3044104
jelly my boy
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>>3044107
Natura 1600

stock up on that shit my mang
>>
>>3044110
120 format provia 400x would be nice to have regular access to..
>>
>>3044058
I always presoak in 68 degree water. I don't do a wash between dev fluids. Should I start that? Would that cause these problems, maybe?

>thin dilution for a short time
It does seem a bit short. I've tried going beyond that before, and the negatives got a little more dense than desired. Like most ortho film, it has brutal contrast to begin with, and while rodinal is cheap, I think it exacerbates that contrast. The problem is that XTOL seems to wash this shit right out, and make it too soft. Not that short when you consider that Fomapan 100 is 10 mins at 1+100 in Rodinal. The constant agitation should also be shortening the dev time , although that doesn't seem to work in my case.


I tried glass at the bottom of trays but the negatives always stick. I've heard that tip before, though. Is there some trick to prevent them from sticking to the bottom?

It's driving me mad here because I can't afford to get my 4x5's lab developed. There's nothing more infuriatingly defeating than trouble shooting and still not being able to figure out what is going wrong.
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>>3044150
How long should I presoak? I've been doing 1m.
>>
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>>3044104
mine literally arrived this morning... feels amazing despite being "plastic".. also tiny for 6x4.5.
>>
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What camera is this please?
>>
>>3044250
>6x4.5
>>
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Does anybody here do Ra4 colour prints?

>>3044084
Don't be mean, I didn't read the question properly.

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>>3044267
>HorribleSubs
>>
What is the most affordable, medium format rangefinder?
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>>3044264
Looks like a Minox 35 or one of its variations
>>
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Got these both for 5 euros yashica seems to work fine. Idk about the minolta tho
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>>3044279
>mfw we are in the peak of MF rangefinder fever

why is /film/ board so comfy?
>>
>>3044275
Holy shit I need to correct my screen this looks like shit on my phone.

>>3044286
Nice snag, you gonna keep the T or sell it?
>>
>>3044290
Idk yet. Since im europoor poor part idk where to sell honestly. Would be nice profit tho.
>>
sorry for asking here, I asked in the stupid questions general but got no answer so here I am
how many time can I let a new film in a camera, I mean for example: yesterday I shoot some photos, but I still have like 15 pictures left in the roll and I want to shoot them tomorrow
>>
>>3044316

Pretty much forever, though you will start to get some fogging on the already-exposed frames after a month or two.
>>
>>3044289
Rangefinder fever is a springtime phenomenon on every photography forum. /fgt/ is as susceptible as APUG.

Think about it. Unmetered rangefinder in your hand, EV13-15 outside, shooting a bulk reel per week, wind in your hair, no gear no fear.
>>
>>3044322
i understand perfectly the exposure triangle concept, but don't know shit about EV. can you direct me to some easy to grasp explaination?
>>
I just finished my first roll of film ever, where should I get my film developed? Also should I have the lab do the scans or should I use my home scanner? I think it's an Epson perfection v370
>>
>>3044332
EV is Exposure Value. You can easily google the relationship between it and exposure settings. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exposure_value
My Light Meter app on my phone shows the EV as well shutter speed and aperture. It's the top one if you search for "light meter" and it's free

>>3044339
Where you get it developed depends entirely on where you live obviously.
Does the v370 have the backlight required for scanning film? I don't believe it does, so it wouldn't work. That means having the place do it for you.
>>
>>3044357
Im not at home right now and I'm not sure what the exact model is, but I know it does slides so I'm guessing negatives work as well. My main concern is the quality, and from lurking it seems lab scans are frouned upon, I just don't know if that's because lab scans are actually bad or if it's just the usual 4channer superiority complex
>>
>>3044286
Minolta AF2? Throw some AA batteries in
>>
>>3044357
>>3044359
Also what I meant as far as lab recommendations is whether I should use a mail-in lab or if I should go to Walgreens or something of that caliber
>>
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Thoughts on the Yashica E35?
>>
>>3044360
nah its Minolta AF T. Did put batteries in but still can figure it out if its working atm
>>
so /fgt/, I was gifted an eos 500 and on first impressions its a plastic piece of shite.

I already have the pleasure of using an eos 620 but I'm wondering if the 500, being a newer camera, has a better AF system. Anyone have any experience?

I don't want to waste the money on batteries and film if there is no point whatsoever in using the camera.
>>
>>3044373
>SPIDERMAN CAMERA PETER PARKER SPIDER MAN
great lens, fun and easy to shoot, not enough manual control tho
>>
is pentax k1000 worth 35 euroduus?
>>
>>3044275
>Don't be mean, I didn't read the question properly.
No, I was implying that those films cannot in fact be "pushed" to provide a full tonal scale at those speeds, let alone reasonable colour.
>>
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>>3044289
>for you

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>>3044379
>so /fgt/, I was gifted an eos 500 and on first impressions its a plastic piece of shite.
My first impressions are that you're a fucking retard.
>world’s smallest and lightest 35mm AF SLR when it was launched
>built-in flash is controlled with TTL
>shutter speed-priority AE, aperture-priority AE, four Programmed Image Control modes, and metered manual
The 620 is a boat anchor compared to this.
It is a technical marvel and any skilled photographer could create fine work with it.
>>
>>3044403
obviously if i knew all that information it wouldn't be a first impression you sperg.

im not sure whether you're being sarcastic or not trying to tell me that a camera having PASM and a few auto modes makes it a technical marvel.
>>
>>3044317
I've developed film way over a year later after finishing a roll and there was no fog or any other difference, and a lot of those rolls were expired to begin with. I'm sure even longer is fine.
>>
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>>3044250
Nice! What's the first roll going to be?

>>3044279
I'd say the Fuji GS645 considering they are going for <$300. Unless you want to get some shitty folder.

>>3044361
It totally depends where you live.

>>3044402
Wat's dat 16ex, 8ex, 4ex thing? How could you get less than 16ex?

What's the best film for shooting cherry blossoms /p/? It's almost time.

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>>3044401
Ahh, I know some films have better low light characteristics then others and I think that's what buddy was asking.

// I've first hand seen portra 400 @ 1600 and gold 200 @ 800 and there is by no means NOT reasonable colours, obviously there isn't going to be a full tonal scale but sometimes you have to sacrifice that to either get the shot or have a certain look. I'm not saying it's a do it every roll type of thing but by all means it's definitely usable. I thought the guy asking wanted to know which films have the least reciprocity failure for doing long exposures.
>>
should i learn to shoot film on a canon rebel 2000, fujica st605n, or minolta xg-m?
>>
>>3044487
There's nothing to learn if you know how exposure works. Any of those would work.
>>
>>3044411
>im not sure whether you're being sarcastic or not trying to tell me that a camera having PASM and a few auto modes makes it a technical marvel.

In 1993 it did. Compared to the vast bulk of film cameras you'll come across it does.

>>3044475
>Wat's dat 16ex, 8ex, 4ex thing? How could you get less than 16ex?

That's a 6x9 camera, it gets 8 exposures on 120, double that on 220, and half as much on japan-only short-roll 120.
>>
>>3044413
>>3044317
thank you very much
>>
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Any tips in purchasing chemicals? I'm trying to start in film, been shooting digital for a while and i'm not comfortable with the colors it delivers.I've shoot 2 rolls already one B&W 400TX and a ColorPlus 200.
>>
>>3044551
Might be easier to start with chemicals you mix from concentrate.

Kodak HC110 is good and lasts forever

Get rid of stop bath completely, just do two washes of 30 seconds each, continuous agitation and then move onto the fixer. Stop bath chemical is unnecessary for tank development

Ilford Rapid Fixer is cheap and works well.
>>
>>3044552
>from concentrate
The liquid ones? i've checked those and they are more expesives.About the HC-110 I read very good things about it but it goes for about $40.I thonk ill try the powders first.Thanks for tips anyway
>>
>>3044322
going into winter here actually.. though Australian winter isn't exactly rough.

>>3044475
Portra 160, it's all I have as I was given 10 rolls for free.
>>
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shot a role of Kodak BW400 CN expired 10 years ago, turned out grainy af
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Shot this last week with a Kiev 60, Ultrafine Xtreme 400 pushed to 3200. 1/2
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>>3044897
2/2
>>
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What do you people think about this portrait?
Hasselblad 500C/M with its 80mm Planar and Ilford XP2 400 ASA film

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>>3044897
>>3044898
These are amazing. Did the remaining 10 shots contain anything remotely as good as this? Both your timing and composition suggest they might, don't be stingy with us anon.
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>>3044672
How much of a difference is there in terms of light (amount, colour, other qualities), and foliage, between the major seasons, in Australia? Because from like Denmark and further north in Europe, mid-November thru mid-February is like, EV7 on a cloudy noon. LIterally can't shoot 100 speed or slower without tripod or flash. Midsummer is EV13-15 for like 16+ hours around noontime, drives foreigners the other kind of crazy... fucking brilliant for anything photography-related besides lightproofing my bathroom.
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>>3044897
3/?

>>3044922
I ended up shooting two rolls. The low light and speed made perfect focus very hard. Here are a few more.
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>>3044933
4/?
>>
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>>3044897
5/?
>>
>>3044943
T H I C C
>>
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>>3044923
It depends where you're going for foliage, but for the most part, unless you're in an alpine region or the far south, there are no foliage changes.
The "seasons" are 30+ degrees in summer, 20+ degrees in winter, with the sun setting at 6pm in winter and 7pm in summer.
There is no twilight, or dusk, or any of those nice long evenings you get in countries closer to the poles. You can walk into the supermarket to buy dinner while it's still light enough to read a book outside, and walk out into darkness.
It is bright as a motherfucker all the time, the sun is always high in the sky, and it hardly rains so overcast days are rare. If you load 400 film during the day, you will be shooting at f/16 unless you find some shade.
It's shitty for photography, the light is hard and clear and the direction is always up. And of course once the sun sets you're done for the day. Golden hour is golden 10 minutes, literally.

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>>3044953
>Golden hour is golden 10 minutes, literally.
Also worth noting that there are few clouds and no pollution, so it's not usually golden either.
Oh, and with that beach photo, I was shooting 100 iso film at 50, and added a polariser, and I was like 1/2000 @ f/4.
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>>3044897
6/?
>>
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Just got this off eBay a week ago, had a film advance problem but managed to fix it, sorta beat up but works for me. Small and it's half frame. Bretty gud
>>
>>3044953
Cheers. Makes me not whine about the winter as much; at least we've got a nice part of the year. I suppose it's a lot of f/22 on a wide angle, everything in focus, kind of stuff down under.
>>
>>3044264
https://www.lomography.com/magazine/226628-minox-35-el-and-andy-warhols-exposures

minox 35 el
>>
>>3044279
koni-omega
>>
>>3044535
what 220 film are you using? could only find fuji 160 on ebay.
>>
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Are the fainter outlines of the lights you can see in this image the result of diffraction? I'm not really sure what could have caused it.

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>>3044250
God, that camera is adorable. I've been looking into one so I can start shooting porta in 120. I can't get over the colors on portra 120 film.
>>
>>3045055
could it be fog or smoke showing the columns of light from the X things ?
>>
missed out on a 200$ SQ-A kit today, 150mm PS and 80mm PS with body and prism. :(
>>
>>3045076
I don't think so, it was quite a clear night. Exposure was 4 seconds, from memory.
>>
>>3044897
Can Kiev 60's be had for cheap? I want a 6x6 to take backpacking.
>>
>>3045055

they're internal reflections, bright light bouncing around inside the elements of the lens and causing double images.
>>
>>3045075
adorable aha
I actually think it's the most 80's looking camera I've perhaps ever seen.. it's great though, feels robust yet light and ergonomically very clever.
>>
>>3044964
Kuribayachi? I thought he died on Iwo Jima. They never found his body though, maybe he started his own camera brand
>>
>>3044923
Foliage is different shades of green and brown, all year round. Sometimes if we're lucky and it's rained, the greens might even look appealing.

I love my country, but in terms of landscape photography it fucking blows
>>
>>3045079
Around $85-$200
>>
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>>3045012
Not him, but I have a hoard of Fuji 160NS and Velvia 100 in 220.

>>3045077
Sry anon, better luck next time.

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>>3044487
xpan
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>>3044322
lol'd
>>
any advice for using a 40mm lens on a Leica M3? it doesn't have 40mm frame lines but how big of an issue is that seriously?
>>
>>3045187
The entire viewfinder pretty much has the field of view of a 35mm lens, so if you frame your shot somewhere between the 50mm frameline and the edge of the viewfinder it should be right.

There's 40mm accessory finders you can get though, some Israeli dude makes them and sells them on ebay for like $35
>>
So I've asked abour prices earlier, but how does getting film developed at Kitamura work? And is it also the recommended place for E6?
>>
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>>3045195
>Take film to them
>If it's 35mm c41 it will take an hour tops
>If it's 120/220 or 35mm e6 they send it out and it takes about a week
>They'll have you write your name and phone number on a sheet and give you a copy.
>If your film is being sent out they will call when it's ready.
>If you bring them Kodak they may ask if you'd prefer to have it developed using Kodak chemistry. Otherwise it will be developed in Fuji chemistry.
>The people working there may/may not be knowledgeable with film. If you bring them non-Fuji products make sure they know whether it's c41 or e6. Had some Kodak Gold cross-processed once.

Finally, use this webpage for reference.
>http://photojpn.org/WAEI/dpe.html

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>>3045099
Wow that didn't even cross my mind. Good catch there.
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>>3045190
Thanks, the 40mm Summicron looks pretty good considering its price
>>
>>3045196
Thanks, that link is good stuff! I wasn't familiar with the vocabulary, that should help.

Yeah from what I googled the shipping out of E6 seems to be why slide takes so long. I tried googling for places that would do it themselves and only take a day or two, but all the results are pretty old. If I can't find any I'll probably just try to shoot most of my slide film towards the beginning of my trip.
>>
>>3044059
Hello guys
I have a full 1L bottle of stock ID-11 that I mixed on 2016-05-22
Think that would still be allright to develop a test roll?

Website / Ilford pdf's say 6 months
Internet forums say maybe 9 months
>>
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>>3045212
Test with a little lead of film

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>>3045216
Thanks, why didn't I think of that

Hey
I've never been in this situation before
please advice

if you test fixer the film goes clear in x seconds.
Is the same supposed to happen with developer?

Testing now: chunk of (exposed) film turns white in 20 seconds.
>>
>>3045223
and black in +/- 10 minutes

Bottle was filled to the brim/ little air in the bottle
Liquid is still clear

I'm just going to give it a go
>>
>>3044059
i just got some Fuji Superia and some Tri-x to feed to a camera i found after doing some cleaning but im basically a beginner to working with film and photography in general

anything i should watch out for, tips/tricks/etc ?
>>
>>3045260
>put film in
>expose correctly (as you would with digital)
>take picture
>develop picture (at home or let it be developed)
>???
>post pictures on /p/ and get shit on
>>
>>3045263
>rinse and repeat
>>
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>>3045278
>>
I need help !

how do i develop a kentmere 400 pushed to 800
with Rodinal ?
can't find any recipe online
>>
>>3045300
Rodinal 1+25 for 9 minutes
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Kentmere&Developer=Rodinal&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C
>>
>>3045079
Yeah, Pretty cheap, though they are really heavy.

Not sure where you are located, but Kievs frequently come from eastern europe, so shipping can take a long time.
>>
having some issues with C41
mixed fresh unicolor kit and ran a few rolls without issue.
moved on to some "old" undeveloped rolls.
they have come out very faint and not clear, like the blix is not working.
is this just a problem with old film, or possibly chemistry related?
temps good, technique sound, etc
have done film for 20+ years, but new to C41
>>
My release cable just arrived, so I'll be shooting some night exposures with Ektar 100 on my SQ-A. Any tips? I'm still trying to figure how should I meter.

Also, just sold my Yashica 35GTN and my Pentax SP and I'm buying a Fuji G645S. Good investment?
>>
Anyone have any cool double exposures?

I'll be picking up my first ever developed roll of film that I shot on an F100 I picked up for like $20 couple of weeks ago. I didn't have any new rolls though so I found one at work and I have no idea if it was already shot on or not.
>>
>>3045420
Develop a test roll of fresh C200 in said chemicals to tell between clapped-out film and bad chems. If this confirms blame on the chems, try re-dipping bad negatives in fresh blix; this should work along the same lines a re-fixing underfixed B&W negs after drying and washing.

It's well possible for the blix to go off before the developer does, especially if it's been kept poorly (like, without an airtight cap); the fixing component is still basically hypo (smells that way too), so it's got similar (but worse) storage properties as hypo in water.

Sadly I couldn't tell you what an under-blixed negative looks like since my C41 kit is four baths. But my fix always goes off before the other fluids.
>>
>>3045493
thanks, anon
was going to test a clipping in just blix to see if it clears.
have always heard that color neg "does not keep", but just unsure of what the typical result of that is.
>>
are any manual SLRs in production nowadays?
>>
>>3045544
The ones that are, one is a student's camera for people who aren't allowed to spend a stipend on used goods, and the other is an extremely desirable collectible for old farts. The first is good enough but far worse than some used SLRs one could get for about that price; and the second is absolutely lovely and dreamy and shit but costs like four times what the other MF Nikon dream cameras cost used. (also, both electronic and mechanical shutter control. how fucking neat is that? takes twice the CLAing though.)

Go used or digital.
>>
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>>3045492
No, not cool
>>
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>>3045492
I sometimes forget to advance the film and end up with double exposures

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>>3045301
Ty friend !
>>
>>3045342
Are the sellers pretty sketchy, usually? I've had bad experiences with japanese sellers of film equipment on ebay.
>>
>>3045488
are you me?
literally just sold a Yashica Electro and bought a GS645S as well as a tripod and cable release, and my fridge is full of Ektar/Portra..
>>
>>3045636
not him, but slav sellers are actually decent chaps. sometimes theyll sell you some turd and will refund no questions asked, no returns either.

nippon sellers are always pretty solid.
>>
>>3045672
I got a lens with a thumbprint on it, once. On the inside element. From a japanese seller.
>>
>>3045681
shit happens.
>>
i have a question. i'm using film on a daily basis because i like the feel but day after day i go obsessed about the image quality. so here is the question: what is the point of film if we digitise the data?

i know it sounds retard but i'm genuinely wondering
>>
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Just picked up a huge stack of film from the PO box. One more trip in a month for 120 and I should be set for a solid 6 months.

20 rolls of 36 exposure ektachrome 64T 35mm rolls.

Here's the collection:

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>>
>>3045732
>what is the point of film
the process.

also digitizing the data has nothing to do with anything. people that play the guitar, or whole bands that record themselves into a computer are digitizing the data too, and it doesnt make their stuff less "real" or turns their electroacoustic devices into midi chiptune. they are still real instruments, but the support of the wave image is digital. i can paint an oil paint and then take a digital picture of it and it wont be less of an oil paint than it is in the actual media (except, of course, for selling purposes).

digital is a way to archive, it has nothing to do with the actual physical media were using. keep shooting and worry less.
>>
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If for whatever reason any of you /fgt/'s come across a Kirk bl-67ii L Bracket for the Pentax 67, can you let your boy know
>>
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>>3044059

Currently have an Epson V370 that does a serviceable job at up to 8x10, but wondered what would be good for scanning into larger print sizes.

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>>3045797

I guess it goes without saying for that one and this, pic related.
>>
>>3045661
Well, the only film in my fridge is a box of Ektar and Portra NC, so yeah, I might be you.
What's your impression of the GS645S?
>>
Putting together a little film dev kit.
Are "cascade" force film washers worth it/useful?

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>>3045820
I've just run a tap straight into my tank for years. I've developed 35mm up to 4x5 black and white and both color neg and slide film with this sort of washing with no issues
>>
>>3045820

Film washers are not necessary .. I built myself a siphon print washer for like 5 dollars which i think is necessary.. but if you have a tank you just run the tap into it and it works great.
>>
>>3044279
Get a folder if you can shoot without the built in meter, not shitty if you can find a decent oneand a lot cheaper than the newer plasticrap
>>
>>3044921
He looks like he's taking a dump, and IMO the crop is boring.
>>
>>3045420
>>3045493
Is developing color film at home easy to fuck up? Is it not too hard to do daylight dev with a paterson tank? And does it need a rotor station for constant agitation?

The lab's prices are killing me and I'm thinking of doing C-41 at home. Same with E-6. I live in one of the only places that does E-6 left in Canada, and I'd love to support the lab if it wasn't going to burn me so hard.
>>
>>3045873
Bump as I'm also wanting to know. It's going to cost me no joke around $25aud each roll as I have to pay for postage to and from the lab plus the additional cost to develop 120, just the thought of that has put me off shooting any colour yet.

I've found the Tetenal 1L kit on ebay for $68 and people have reported getting 14-18 rolls of 120 from each kit, which is cheap as fuck compared to sending it to a lab.
>>
>>3045873
>>3045880

try this kit. They have a YouTube video on how they use it, and they have a Paterson tank. Sample images are from that shoot apparently.

http://filmphotographyproject.com/store/fpp-c-41-development-kit-1-liter-kit
>>
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Just copped this for $8 at an estate sale, did I do good /p/?

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>>
>>3045884
fake
>>
>>3045814
haven't used it yet, only got it a few days ago and waiting for some batteries and things.


Anyone know what kind of eyecup I could get ofr a Fuji GS645S? I read maybe a generic chinese DK-19 should fit.
>>
thoughts on fujifilm superior 200?
>>
>>3045882
Thanks but I doubt these guys will ship to aus, no one else in the US seems to
>>
>>3045734
Is that APX 100 in 120 I see? Possibly expired in 2012 or earlier? That's some magical shit right there, rodinal 1+50 it and feel pain about only having two rolls.
>>
>>3045910
Shit I've just been shooting it like any regular film, dev'ing in rodinal 1+100. Didn't realise it was discontinued, rare stuff.
>>
>>3045732
Hate to break it to you, but the quality of the glass on your camera matters more for picture quality, even in a scanning workflow, than the sensor or medium. That's to say: there's obvious differences between frames taken with a 2008 (ish?) nikkor 50mm f/1.8g, and an early 70s nikkor AI 50mm f/2, even if you're shooting Fomapan and scanning with a hand-me-down potato.

(The difference is that the seventies lens is fluffy soft leica glowy wide open, and the gee-whiz lens is coated with unicorn shavings and its character is clinical excellence at any aperture.)

My point here is that before digital sensor wank there was film grain wank, photo paper wank, and optics wank aplenty. In the end you want a picture, or preferably several, and nearly any camera with a halfway decent lens (at least singly coated, multiple elements, made of glass) and some exposure control will pony up with that well enough.

Obsessing with hi-fi themes can be useful if you want to get MF tier detail off Retro 80s w/ a F100 or F5. But mostly it's just a waste of time, same as it is on digital. Try creative options instead.
>>
>>3045918
There's an APX 100 today, but it's substantially inferior to the "old formula". I'm sitting on about 45m of bulk 35mm since about two years ago, too timid to actually use it. Guess that's how it wound up in my hands as well.

Closest approximation today is RPX100, but in HC-110. Which is odd. And it's not the same of course.
>>
If I already own a Mju I, would it make sense to get a Mju III 80?
Can't find much useable information about the mju III and zoom point&shoots seem to be crap.

But would it be an upgrade from the mju I if I can get one in good condition for 1€?
>>
>>3045892
How?
>>
Stupid question, new to film.
The lab near me doesn't develop HP5 for some reason, but I like their prints, I've used them before.
If I learn how to develop film myself and develop my HP5 roll, can I give them the negatives and they print the photos? I can't afford the tools to print a negative myself even if I wanted to
>>
>>3045973
Yes. They might charge a bit more than they would for developing/printing together, but they'll do it.
>>
>>3045941
I mean what do you have to lose for 1€? It probably won't be as sharp as the prime on the mju 1, but you might get some versatility from the zoom if you're just carrying it around everywhere you go.(although it will be a thicker camera)
>>
>>3046009
actually ment to write 5€, got my Mju I for 1.

So the Mju I prime lens should be sharper than the Mju III zoom lens? well shit
>>
Is it preferred to post my recent film pics in here or in the recent pics thread?
>>
>>3046016
Post film pics in here. I need inspiration
>>
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>>3046029
ok, its only a few of what I think are the better ones from my second roll ever so be gentle..

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>>3046030

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>>3046032

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>>3046034

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>>3046035

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>>3046036
The end thank you

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>>
>>3045734
wew lad, looks like you've got your work cut out for you shooting all that.
>>
>>3045906
The MF fuji's all take standard Nikon eyepiece accessories, same threading. Handy if you need dioptres or magnifiers.
>>
>>3045734
How is Ilford? My camera shop doesnt carry much but that and Superia. Havent used either yet.
>>
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>>3045907
It's right there in the name.
A best film.

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>>
should I buy a contax t3 or t2
>>
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I want to get a Zenith but which one?

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>>
>>3046037
>>3046036
>>3046034
>>3046032
>>3046030
Your subjects aren't too unique (except the bar), but your photos have such vibrant colors and lovely shadows that I can't help but like them. Your framing ain't bad either.

What camera do you use? Film?
>>
>>3046053
are you asking about HP5? it's a classic film, basically anyone shooting B&W film atm is either going to be shooting HP5 or TX.

they've been fucking around and reformulating it recently, more so than Kodak, which has led to some improvements (e.g. prewash is no longer mandatory) but also makes me suspicious of their ability to do all that without changing the film's look or responsiveness in some way.
>>
>>3046097
Yeah they are a little unoriginal but I wanted to be safe than sorry, my first roll was kinda shit because I just shot willy-nilly. But still thanks!

I have a Minolta XGM and thats on Kodak 200 Gold
>>3046103
Yeah the HP5 was what I was wondering about. Good to know. Theres also a color version, which ive see but havent tried either.
>>
>>3045941
Yo I got a review about the mjuiii zoom.
http://www.themetaphysicians.co/portfolio/olympus-stylus-80-review/
Tldr get it
>>
>>3046141
i honestly don't see why anyone would cop a zoom compact when they have the option to get a prime. the prime lens on the mju ii is faster, sharper, contrastier - I know that apparently they have become trendier recently and so are more expensive on ebay, but you can def still find them in thrift stores for under 10bux. Or just get a different prime compact rather than paying for the Olympus branding.
>>
>>3046167
The mjuiii is a pretty decent zoom tho and it's cheap cheap. But I agree there are other options, it's not a holy grail or anything but for a buck may as well right. If you have the option and money doesn't matter then yes get the compact prime, if you need the versatility or don't have the cash get the zoom.
>>
>>3046170
i guess maybe i've just been lucky (and/or when i bought a mju was before they got so expensive), but i've been able to buy several prime mju I and II cams for $3-$5 each at thrift stores.

but honestly I don't really get their huge popularity in recent years, they are fine cameras but I don't think they're much better than other similarly-priced (or cheaper) compacts. can you explain their huge appeal?
>>
>>3046174
You have been lucky, and I think a lot of other people have been too. The reason imo the mju series is where it is now is because it's the only camera that could be in its position, which camera had 10million sales in a 10 year period, is compact and trendy af, is easy as piss to use and is only 10-20 years old. I believe they had a good rep and their value dropped during the digital boom, a few film figures hyped it and here we are at $300 mint mjuii's on the used market. Also include the high demand for decent film point and shoots and it just increases everything good about the mju. Are they decent little cameras yes, should they be anywhere near $200+ no I don't think but if the market demands it, it'll be.
>>
Where is a good place to buy film developing chemicals? The only physical camera shops in my area sell nothing but DSLR kit.
>>
>>3046188
Which country are you in?
>>
>>3046191
australia
>>
>>3046191

Australia
>>
>>3046187
yeah, I think we're basically in agreement - I don't think they're bad cameras by any means. after all, they are a maitani yoshihisa design and he's the undisputed GOAT in my book. but i've been shocked to see the price rocket up from like $40 max three or four years ago to $200+ these days.

is that right that some big personalities have been hyping them up? so basically the same trajectory as the gr1/21 models, except that the value in the mju lies less in its unique build/glass quality and design and more in its solid quality combined with its ubiquity

>>3046192
http://www.photoresource.com.au/DARKROOM_CHEMICALS_s/1906.htm
???
>>
>>3046192
Oh shit son, sorry m8. I know there's a few Aussies around here but I haven't a clue. I know air shipping Chem is usually a no no so I'm not sure importing would work. You could always mix your own if you look up recipes.
>>
>>3046195
Thank you kind namefag, looks promising.
>>
>>3046195
Yup I agree, and If you look at any "too film compact camera" list you'll always see the mjuii, afaik no one "famous" has used one. More the ubiquity as you said and the trendiness and initially cheap cost.
>>
>>3046200
funny enough i just checked Yahoo Auctions (if anyone is unaware, Yahoo Auctions is basically the japanese ebay equivalent) and the mju/mju ii are still going for the old lower US prices, i.e. $30 or $40 a pop. somebody should import a whole heap of those suckers to the USA and make some money.
>>
>>3046217
on a similar note, here's a Big Mini for two dollars and 50 cents.
http://page13.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/r183554965
>>
>>3046188
For B&W I just bought from B&H, even with the fucked postage costs it was cheaper than any of the aussie stores
>>
>>3046095
Im not sure what this is but I like it
>>
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>>3046217
This is how my PayPal has gone from $0 to $2k since January.

Also, that big mini isn't the sought after one and will still probably hit $30-$40.

The GS is alot bigger than the GA since the lens doesn't collapse. Still a p cute camera tho. Also got an XA2 and another chrome MJU Limited this week.

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Exposure Bias0 EV
Brightness-0.5 EV
ISO Speed Rating587
Exposure Time3/100 sec
>>
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>>3046239
Size comparison.

[GA645] [GS645S] [A7 w/ FD 35mm 2.8]
[XA2] [G1 w/ 45mm]
[Bronica SQ-A w/ 80mm S]

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>>
>>3046241
whats with the fresh semen.
>>
>>3046243
Wat

>>3046241
Shit, just realized that's the 50mm on the Bronica, not the 80mm
>>
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How much should I pay for a new gw690iii? I need one by July, so I have time to save up.
>>
>>3046317
Not more than $475 for a mint one.
>>
>>3046222
building detail.
>>
>>3046167
Would really like to get a Mju II in good condition because they are so pocketable but they simply are too expensive for what they are.
I'm on a budget and I can't afford spending more than around 50€ for a camera. I'm looking for a proper compact that fits my criteria for half a month already.

I never had a zoom and getting a Mju III 80 for 5€ that seems to be in great condition, I thought, why not.
I'll post some pics in the general once I tried the camera out.
>>
>>3046217
Very fucking weird, I'll have to check some of those ads out for fun. I wonder how risky of a investment that would be, if someone did it right now I think you could make a good amount.
>>
>>3044104
I was considering getting one, how is is? MyPentax 645n is in the mail
>>
I just found a Minolta Dynax 800si with Toking AT-X 100mm 2.8 Macro and Toking 80-40mm 4-5.6 plus a bunch of extra for $60 w/ shipping. Should I get it? Have no clue if anything works? Any comment on this camera and lenses?
>>
I'm about to buy a battery and a roll of film for a Canon 10S i just picked up for like $6. It'll be my first experience shooting film, I'm excited.
>>
>>3044921
I like it
>>
>>3046517
Just don't try anything retarded like "pushing" your film and you'll be fine.
>>
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What'd everyone shoot this weekend?
Olympus om2spot + 24mm f/2.8, and mamiya c330 + 80mm f/2.8. 120 neopan 100 and 35mm delta 400 + gold 200. Just devd everything, really liking the wide 24mm. Awesome set up with the autowinder too.

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>>
>>3044062
Love learning about shit like this, really ups the usefulness of a MF camera.
>>
>>3046586
Give me a quick rundown on what pushing film is
>>
>>3046624
exposing your film as if it is faster than it actually is, then developing it longer to compensate.
>>
>>3045923
Thank you for your reply. <3
>>
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Just bought this guy from a local camera shop.
Mamiya M645 1000s, 120 film insert, 110mm 2.8, along with a pd prism.
Loaded up some ilford xp2 400.

Any tips, comments, etc?
My first foray into MF. Very excited
>>
>>3046640
Very cool you got a nice grip with it. I'd recommend just fucking shooting rolls and having fun, take it out even though it's a little bigger, the negatives and image quality are sweet. I've never shot 6x4.5 but medium format is essentially the same as 35mm, you just got less shots. Enjoy m8
>>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/182503421813
Cheap widelux for sale, 15$!
>>
>>3046651
>http://www.ebay.com/itm/182503421813

>Those other recommended listings...

Wew
>>
>>3046640
>>3046647
Also forgot to mention that having a little flash is nice like a sunpak 100 series or something, makes the camera that much more versatile. 頑張って!
>>
>>3046654
Thanks! :)
>>
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>>3046421
Also look into the original MJU. The main draw of the MJU series is how easily pocketable they are due to their curvy design. That's what separates them from most other p&s cameras imo.

>>3046517
Enjoy!

>>3046593
Bought a T4 and some Natura last night and wandered around a bit. Other than that not much. Post some Delta shots, I've got some rolls laying around I need to shoot. What'd you develop it in?

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>>
Is there any reason I should get an SQ-AI body for these PS lenses, rather than an SQ-A?
>>
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>>3046716
No, the only differences between the A and AI are:

>AI can use a motordrive
>AI gets a 16sec exposure setting (A goes up to 8sec)
>AI gets a bulb setting (A has the T setting, which imo is better anyway)

S vs PS lenses make no difference and can be used on any SQ model just fine.

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>>
>>3046712
Ohhh you have a coolscan nice how do you like it? I still have to dslrscan the negs, I usually print but I'm out of paper at the moment. Dev'd in d76 1+1, I'll post some in the next thread, delta 400 is one of my favourites.
>>
>>3046722
Would it be worth it in the sense that an AI is likely to be newer and thus have less wear?

>No difference between lenses
I thought the PS were supposed to have much better optics? The lenses is what I got in this package, along with a beat-looking SQ-A body.

> T better than Bulb
Why do you think that? It fucking drove me nuts with the RB67 SDpro. Is it because Bulb requires you to hold down the shutter release? The problem I have with T is that it does actually take me a bit of force and time to close the shutter that way.
>>
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>>3046724
It was my universities. Gave great scans, was slow as sin though. DSLR scanning is the second best option and honestly...if you're stitching images the quality would probably be pretty close (depending on your scanning rig).

I'd be deving my Delta in D76 too, Looking forward to the results.

>>3046726
I honestly wouldn't worry too much between A and AI. My A has been going strong for 10 years. It's impossible to know what kind of life the camera has had. You could buy an A that was owned by a hobbiest and has seen <100 rolls or an AI owned by a wedding photographer that has seen >1000 rolls.

About the lenses, I meant no difference between being able to use the lenses on an A vs AI body. The PS lenses apparently do have better coatings, I have a mixture of both and haven ever seen the need to upgrade my S versions to PS. One positive of the S versions is that they are all 67mm filter sized, whereas I think the PS has some variance.

>Bulb vs T
Yes, holding down the shutter release is a pain. It also drains the battery and I used to shoot a lot of 1+ hour exposures so the T setting was a dream. With the T setting, I simply quickly cover the lens with my hand at the end of the exposure and then slide the switch. Never had any problems.

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>>
>>3046724
>Ohhh you have a coolscan nice how do you like it?
Look at the shadows in >>3046712, they're fucked.
Same in >>3046722.
>>
>>3046653
kek
>>
>>3046241
I wish there was a 5Dinosaur in this photo so that people could see what bloated jokes modern DSLRs are.
>>
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>>3046734
Yeah...I honestly don't think I ever figured out how to get the best results honestly.

>>3046739
They're pretty comparable to the A7 aren't they?

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>>
>>3046729
Ah yeah, I forgot it took batteries. I've become embarrassingly used to the ALL MECHANICAL meme of RB67/Hasselblad/4x5.

Just got the RZ67 and am gonna sell the RB67. I'd offer it here but I feel uncomfortable about potentially having my identity revealed to people on /urine/.
>>
>>3046759
Okay Eddboi
>>
>>3046758
Not sizewise.
The A7 is tiny, breh.
Also, use the A7 for scanning. I'd say that 35mm is probably sharp enough to start scanning with if you don't have a real macro, just get an extension tube.

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>>3046768
Already use the A7 coupled with the FD 50mm macro for scanning. Shit's cash.

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>>
Is Tri-X or HP5 better?
>>
>>3046110
what scanning software/methods do you use? The colors look great and I'm not seeing the issues I've been getting in my scans (posted on this thread >> 3046812)
>>
>>3046784
They're so different from one another that any ranking will be due mostly to aesthetic and processing preferences. Tri-x curls like a motherfucker, HP5+ straightens out by itself. For a beginner, just get what's cheaper for you (and what your lab recommends).
>>
>>3046784
Tri-X. HP5 is supposed to be really similar, but every time I try it I seem to get nastly ugly clumpy grain. Maybe it just really doesn't get along with the HC-110 developer I use but I don't know why because every other film comes out fine. I've also only used HP5 in 35mm, maybe it would look better in 120 but I've just been turned off of it so Tri-X is my standard film when I want 400 speed.
>>
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>>3046739
They're just too damn thick. The F100 grip is the perfect depth. The D700 is probably the most comfortable DSLR I've ever held, but it's still noticeably heavier and more awkward to hold when you put it up next to the F100.

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>>
>>3046818
I take them to my local camera shop. They do all that and throw it on a CD for me. its 11 bucks a pop. Do you have anything like that around you? If not there is The Darkroom
>>
Anyone know what sort of lens hood would be compatible with a Fuji GS645S?
Would it need to be a vented hood because it's a rangefinder?
>>
>>3046841
I do but the scans they give around here are horrid unfortunately. I used to live in a big city and had much better results from local camera stores.
>>
Advice for getting into medium format? Recommendations for camera and lens?
Currently I shoot mostly tri x on an olympus trip 35 and a Nikon FG but want to try something different.
>>
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>>3046847
My lens hood just broke for it. Is it really necessary?

>>3046891
Find a format you want to shoot first. 6x4.5 is the most economical. 6x6 is unique because square. 6x7 will give you much higher quality compared to 35mm.

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>>
>>3045672
eastern european sellers are fine. the only problem ive had is that some of them say that they accept paypal, and they don't actually
>>
So i just bought my first film camera and for power it requires SP 675 mercury cell but obviously i dont want to buy mercury cells so what is good replacement for it?
Also recs for first film? thanks
>>
what camera is this?
>>
>>3047011
Mamiya Universal, I think.
>>
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Can a film roll being "old" cause photos to be under-exposed?

I got an F100 and a box of various camera accessories at a yard sale, including a couple of rolls of film. I shot one of them and had it developed at a lab with the request that they scan the negatives and put them on a CD. When I picked it up today they had just developed the film and not scanned them because it "wasn't worth it", with all of them apparently being under-exposed. I knew it was a possibility that the entire roll would be double exposed because the guy I got the stuff from didn't know himself, so I was fine with it being a sort of "test roll". However, I was very confident I'd properly exposed each and every shot I took, with the ISO being constant at 400 corresponding to the film, and using the meter very carefully each time.

I put the film over my phone displaying a bright white picture and took a picture using my macro lens. Here's an unedited example.
>>
>>3047020
Yes.
1 stop compensation per 10 years seems to be a rough guideline.
>>
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>>3047020
light conditions look terrible. for a 400 asa roll, you needed a wide open 1.4 lens and 1/30 shutter at least, did you have anything close to that?

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>>3047031
Shot at 1.8 and I'd guess 1/25-1/30. No way I had a smaller aperture or above 1/40 at worst.

Light was actually pretty decent.

Didn't get the cartridge, only the film. Too bad because I never actually checked the expiration date. That's the one thing I didn't include when going over what not to do when shooting film for the first time.
>>
>>3047035
exp date comes only on the box.

all i see are fluorescent lights, which means it was SHIT light. film was fine. you underexposed it.
>>
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>>3047036
Just realized I had my d3100 with me that day. This shot is SOOC, like I said, lighting was good.

1/40 f/5.6 1600 ISO
>>
>>3046857
Damn that sucks. Honestly I hear great things about The Darkroom, if you dont mind waiting a week or so to get your shit back then try that.

How does the shop in your area mess up the pics? would it just be a matter of them having bad equipment or lack of knowledge? Do you have an example of how a badly developed pic would turn out?
>>
>>3044059
I will be going to a vintage fair and i have 100€ to spend, what should i look for with that amount of money camera wise?
>>
>>3046517
Film photography is a tough love but goddamn if it does repay you, have fun man.
>>
>>3047084
spotmatic, or a cool tlr like a yashica mat.

dont bite the zenit meme.
>>
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>expired slide film
Not even once.

Kodak E200

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>>3047089
I already have a Zenit with a set of lenses, my father's possession, and yes even tho they're not the best thing around I love my zenit and it's wonderful to hold, not to mention that they're built to withstand a nuclear explosion.

Anyway thanks a lot for the tips would totally look for that.
>>
>>3047090
why tho it looks interestingm if have one a around it's not a crime to use it.
>>
>>3047090
Depends how expired desu I've got 10 year old provia and it's fine

>>3047084
I'd always recommend Olympus om series.
>>
>>3047091
the good thing is you can use the zenits lenses on the spotmatic. its a win win.
>>
>>3047093
>>3047094
thx
>>
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>>3047090

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>>
just bought a Ricoh gr1s allegedly in mint condition

did I fuck up
>>
>>3047101
nah brah
>>
>>3047111
reviews were scaring me about the camera's electronics/reliability

but it had a lot of pros for me...the lens and the size being the main ones
>>
>>3047089
>>3047093
>>3047094
anyone have tips on what to look for when inspecting a camera to buy ?
>>
>>3047115
I think daido said they're good for 500 rolls till the motor dies but who knows. That's 18,000 pics of 36 rolls
>>
>>3047139
>I think daido said they're good for 500 rolls till the motor dies but who knows. That's 18,000 pics of 36 rolls

yes well I have no idea how many have been through the camera already
>>
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what would you guys rec for cheap scanning, a macro lens or a flatbed.

I'm getting acceptable enough results with my dslr at the moment but now I've started souping my own film I may well start shooting 120 too.

pic related.

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>>
>>>3041211
Can I get some c&c?
>>
>>3046218
meanwhile in the states its 200. its a mediocre cam and easily forgettable. wow!
>>
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>>3047020
Yes, old expired film requires more exposure, and especially old fast film.
Your lab man is just being kind and saving you money, your photos would have been horrendous given the shit equipment he'd be scanning it with. (also, if all the photos are of a pillar, taken from the back of your youth group, fuck man why even bother?)
If you want to take on dslr scanning seriously though, you'd be able to extract photos from that roll.
Pic related was quick and dirty, to give even remotely normal looking colour over the entire frame, including the overexposed background, would require some layer masking HDR type stuff.

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>>
>>3047147
M8, anybody who is looking to sell it wouldn't have even approached 100 rolls. I'd be surprised if a working GR on eboii has had 20 rolls through it.
"serious" shooters, of the kind that actually wear out cameras, don't sell them to plebs like you on eboi.
They use them until they break.
>>
>>3047170
I'm not usually reassured by this boards sneering pretension but thanks
>>
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Sometimes it takes a second or two for the RF to start working on my GS if it's my first time using it that day. Normal? Seems to get away after the first time's hesitation.
>>
>>3047022
How does this interact with freezer-stored film?
>>
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>>3047181
No compensation needed for freezer stored.

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>>
>>3047127
Make sure nothing looks damaged, the shutter and film advance should always be moving nicely and (afaik) every 35mm body should be able to dry fire to make sure shutter mechanism works. (Try a couple speeds). Other than that definitely ask the owner what they know about the camera, what it was used for etc. Make sure the mirror is in good shape, not scrapped or damaged. Eye ball light seals, they could be ok they could be dead either way that's an easy fix. As for glass just make sure it's clear and activate the aperture, some lenses the blades don't move when the lens isn't mounted so use a depth of field preview button on the lens or mount it and use dof preview or go to bulb shutter and set aperture, open back and look through like that. Make sure the blades have no oil or minimal amounts on them. Other then that idk, most cameras will work unless they're damaged and you can usually tell in my experience.
>>
File: FH000004.jpg (4MB, 3637x2433px) Image search: [Google]
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I've been learning how to shoot and started on film because that's what I've got. I love it! I'm going to get into some lomography too but that's whatever...

I'm also very intrigued by super 16 mm movie cameras. The footage is gorgeous and could add a lot to skateboarding and music videos that I'm involved in.

Here are some of my photos.
>>
File: FH010014.jpg (2MB, 2433x3637px) Image search: [Google]
FH010014.jpg
2MB, 2433x3637px
>>3047267
>>
File: A005379-R1-06-19A.jpg (3MB, 3637x2433px) Image search: [Google]
A005379-R1-06-19A.jpg
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>>3047268
>>
File: A006685-R1-32-4A.jpg (3MB, 3637x2433px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3047269
All of the skateboarding is me by the way. My friend is shooting me on various film cameras that I have. He taught me most everything I know about photography!
>>
>>3047268
>wannabe tough punks 30 years too late in suburban nowheresville trying to be cool shooting film

babby
>>
>>3047273
this is a bad post and you should feel bad
>>
>>3047273
How is babby formed?
>>
>>3046824
>Tri-x curls like a motherfucker, HP5+ straightens out by itself

what did he mean by this
>>
>>3047281
Hp5 is designed to not curl longitudinally when drying. It helps for scanning and making prints.
>>
is there any way to repair the horizontal viewfinder line a spotmatic f aside from replacing the prism?
>>
picked up this bad boy plus accessories for 50 bucks

the following films are in the mail:
vista 200, 400
Rollei 400 IR (thought it might be interesting considering underwater light transmission, although it will probably be shit)
Adox CMS 20 II
Velvia 50
Provia 100f

Does anyone have any suggestions for other films? I have a flash, but underwater tends to be lacking in the reds and yellows when shot without, and that thing is big and heavy.

Also, C-41 seems pretty easy to do, is it possible to source the chems industrially to avoid paying photographer markup?

are slides worth it?
>>
File: nikonos.jpg (368KB, 1000x662px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3047296
moot won't let me delete and repost to cover my mistake

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>>
>>3047296
>are slides worth it?
slides are worth it all. have you ever seen a slide irl?
>>
>>3047300
only in the stories

i'll make sure to ship those somewhere reputable
>>
>>3047303
i meant one of your slides.

thing is, there is this crazy feeling of having a memory and then see it reenacted again in the form of a slide. if you can shoot some medium format slides, shit will make you feel like you were a blind cuckhold all this time. like when you take lsd for the first time.
>>
Is TMax or Tri X better?
>>
>>3047313
they are too different. what for? trix will give you that grungy contrasty street look lots of faggots crave.

tmax is softer, has lots of midtones, more suitable for architecture and soft portraits and landscapes, but you can use whatever the fuck you want them in.
>>
What's a safe way of putting grid lines on my P67 focus screen? Would a regular, non-permanent marker work?
>>
>>3047317
why not use a piece of clear plastic sheet and draw your scribbles there?
>>
File: Comparison for anon 3.jpg (2MB, 5010x2500px) Image search: [Google]
Comparison for anon 3.jpg
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>>3047313
T-Max is """better""" in that it has higher resolution and less grain and more dynamic range and all that technical stuff, but if you were only concerned with purely technical stuff you probably wouldn't be shooting black and white film in 2017. Tri-X has the classic black and white film look, millions of the most iconic photos of the past century were shot on Tri-X. If you pick any memorable black and white photo, there's a good chance it was shot with Tri-X.

They're both good, they're just different. Assuming you're shooting film and then scanning, T-Max is supposedly also a bit more optimized for scanning, but that doesn't really mean much. I don't really shoot much T-Max, but here's a sort of high resolution comparison I threw together. Note that HC-110 probably isn't the ideal developer to use with T-Max so I might not be doing it much justice, but hopefully it helps.

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>>
>>3047323
This was really helpful. I like them both and can really imagine using them for different situations. I think TriX looks better overall.
>>
>>3047154
I have a flatbed, works well for 120 but a bit soft for 35. What film did you use for that pic tho?
>>
>>3047011
Polaroid 600/600SE or Mamiya Universal
>>
File: Industrial_014.jpg (721KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
Industrial_014.jpg
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>>3047299
Really, really hard to get good colors underwater if you don't use a flash. I'd recommend just shooting black and white if you go flashless. Pick up some Tri-X and have fun.

For film:
I wouldn't shoot Provia since it already tends to go blue...the last thing you want underwater.
That ADOX is going to be useless at 20iso.

Great grab for $50! Mounting the lenses upsidedown makes adjusting focus easier btw.

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>>
>>3047254
thanks much appreciated
>>
>>3047269
Ouh even if terrible out of focus i like this one
>>
>>3047271
omfg that is gorgeous feline
>>
>>3047323
i didn't know about that, extremely insightful, thanks.
>>
File: img6.jpg (231KB, 749x1028px) Image search: [Google]
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Hi guys, I started shooting film 4 months ago and I always paid like 10€ for developing the roll and 16€ to print and scan
Now I've seen this product on Kickstarter http://www.ars-imago.com/lab-box/

I wonder if it's a better option to buy this, and develop by myself and scan ( i got a v750 pro )
If it's better, what chemical should I buy ? And do I need the whole developing process with this LabBox

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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Equipment MakeEPSON
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>>
Has anyone shot a Natura Black? I'm thinking of buying one.
>>
File: Hasselblad_01.jpg (788KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
Hasselblad_01.jpg
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Just did my first shoot with medium format.
Hasselblad 500 c/m. Kodak Portra 400. Zeiss 150mm at f4.
Any thoughts?

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>>
>>3047472
consider removing the object in front of the subject you're shooting next time anon
>>
>>3047467
holy shit. I'm into this if the quality is as good as a studio. Regarding chemicals, the only downside is that chemicals age really quickly so if you have gaps between the times you're taking pictures then your chemicals will produce lower quality images
>>
>>3047472
nice lighting, nice make up idea, obviously gorgeous model but seriously >>3047476 he is right.
If you really wanted the object in frame have it interact with the suject.
>>
>>3047467
>Hi guys, I started shooting film 4 months ago and I always paid like 10€ for developing the roll and 16€ to print and scan
damn, you got jewed pretty hard there

>Now I've seen this product on Kickstarter http://www.ars-imago.com/lab-box/
holy shit, this is making me physically sick. 80$ for a fucking daylight tank?

Get a Paterson or any other brand, they do the same thing and cost a quarter of this shit

>I wonder if it's a better option to buy this, and develop by myself and scan ( i got a v750 pro )
If it's better, what chemical should I buy ?
you can get decent results from both 35mm and MF with a v750 (though a dedicated 35mm scanner or a DSLR with macro lens will yield better results). As far as chemicals go, (assuming B&W) you only really need a developer (Rodinal is the standard but you can get better ones) and a fixer. I bought mine for 10$ each at a local camera store and they lasted me maybe 8-10 rolls so far.
>>
>>3047467
The LabBox is a simple clone of an older design by Agfa. These are called the Agfa Rondinax tanks, there's a lot of information on them.

However, you really don't need one of these special tanks. They're a lot of effort and have a lot of downfalls.

Instead, get a regular 2-reel Paterson tank. Buy the chemicals (developer and a fixer) and then find a dark place (and I mean pitch fucking black) and that's all you need.

People make film development out to be dark arts but it's actually insanely easy. Just look up any tutorial on youtube, super easy my man.

>>3047477
****some chemicals age super quickly

Most modern developers and fixers are pretty stable. I've got a year-old bottle of Kodak HC110 that still develops film as good as it did a year ago.

More specialised chemicals like those required for C41 and E6 processing go bad a lot quicker, so you're right on that front.

And the quality from this tank will be just as good as any lab/studio. What do you think they're doing differently to any hobbyist who develops film? It's all the same chemicals, photo labs aren't conducting secret black magic when they dev film
>>
File: Hasselblad_02.jpg (903KB, 999x1000px) Image search: [Google]
Hasselblad_02.jpg
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>>3047479
Cheers. Yeah you're right. I think it works better in the series. But it kinda does look like a mistake and not part of the concept, at least with that pic

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>>
>>3047482
>>3047480

Thank to both of you ! I'll buy a 2 reel Paterson tank.
My local shop got a starter pack with Fomadon LQN, Tetenal Superfix Plus and Tetenal Mirasol 2000 the tank, a thermometer and some others accessories for 90$
>>
>>3045734

You're gonna love that Arista 400.
>>
>>3047504
If you're not able to light-proof a room just buy a changing bag instead, paterson also makes one
>>
>>3047485
This one is slightly better but it still just makes me frustrated cause i can't see her nose
>>
New thread >>3047514
>>
>>3047090
You can't expect proper results for anything expired more than 5 years.
Looks good tho, sometimes it gives stuff a nice look, in your case it does also desu
>>
>>3047472
Fuck me she's lush.
I'm envious/post moar.
>>
File: Bild002_Neg.Nr.2_DxO.jpg (1MB, 2088x1392px) Image search: [Google]
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1MB, 2088x1392px
ilford xp 2

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Camera-Specific Properties:
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Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
>>
File: Bild006_Neg.Nr.6_DxO.jpg (1MB, 2088x1392px) Image search: [Google]
Bild006_Neg.Nr.6_DxO.jpg
1MB, 2088x1392px


[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Camera SoftwareDxO OpticsPro 11.3.1
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
>>
>>3047632
I wish you stood a little further. Nice pic tho
>>
File: Bild016_Neg.Nr.16A.jpg (3MB, 2088x1392px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3047646
like this? Shot it a couple of weeks ago on expiered Kodak BW400CN, turned out really grainy
>>
File: A005379-R1-07-18A.jpg (3MB, 3637x2433px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3047432
I'm glad it came out like that. I shot that one at multiple f's but I like that one the most.
>>
>>3044059
Where do y'all get your film developed? I have about 60 rolls I need to send out, but I don't want that to cost a million dollars.
>>
where can i get microfiber cloths for cheap?
>>
File: _14_0045.jpg (132KB, 1536x1024px) Image search: [Google]
_14_0045.jpg
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Took this a few months back on some Ilford HP5+ 400 on my F80

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeAgfaPhoto GmbH
Camera Modeld-lab.2/3
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Image Height1024
>>
>>3044059
>Film lol pleb
not shooting with a pinhole camera that you made yourself
>>
What's a good beginners sleep camera body I could look for on Craigslist? I've been shooting on a Nikon autofocus l35 for the last year and I'm ready to upgrade. Lense recommendations are also appreciated! Budget is 200 for everything.
>>
>>3047923
Amazon
>>
>>3045907
How does the 200 look compared to the 400?
Thread posts: 326
Thread images: 83


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