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Accurate metering without built in spot meter

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Thread replies: 24
Thread images: 3

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Hey, filmfags.

I have an old Pentax Super ME with center weighted metering. How am I supposed to control my exposure accurately using this piece of trash? Should I burn 150 clams on an old light meter with spot capabilites?

Summed up: photographing without spot metering is like trying to fuck with half a pen0r.

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>>
Film is super forgiving unless you're shooting slide film.
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>>3040409
>am I supposed to control my exposure accurately using this piece of trash?

There's the actual question you should be looking to answer. Center-weighted metering is for having a pretty good guess, and having to paste your artistic vision on top.
>>
>>3040429

but also i will say, yeah. get a meter. they are intensely useful pieces of equipment.
>>
Do you have a smartphone? If yes download a light meter app
>>
By being able to tell how many stops up/down the highlights and shadows from your meter reading with your eyeballs.

Or just finding a patch of highlight/shadows, filling the VF with it, and take your "spot" metering from that. Compensate up/down from that reading then.
>>
Basically what the other guy said; stop relying on your TTL meter and learn how to read the quality of light.
>>
>metering for anything other than LF and slides

You're doing it wrong.
>>
>>3040641
Well, don't rely on it dumbly like some digishit is what I mean. If you fill your frame with shadow at EV 10, and your highlights at EV 16, then you'd realize you want to shoot at EV 11 or 12 with negative film, and EV 12 or 13 with slide film and deal with either blown highlights or shadows.

Or point your camera at the scene, see what it meters, then decide to shoot 1 or 2 under if there's large bright spots (headlights, reflective surfaces), or shoot 0.3-1 over when there's subjects often in shade. Negative film makes it easy, just shoot 1-2 stops over shadow meter.

All of this applies to digital too. Meter for highlights-1 and everything should just fit on your (JPG) histogram. Nikon users know to dial in -0.7 with the matrix meter in daylight scenes to get everything captured.
>>
don't even bother with a meter. git good with your brain. take notes, build your own exposure references.
http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
>>
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>>3040849
>>3040641
>>3040573

>whenever some fucktard says "just eyeball it bro!" despite the fact that literally every serious fine art photographer and commercial photographer in the history of the medium has used a light meter
>>
What light meter does /p/ recommend? Also have the same problem, looking at a Gossen Digisix 2 but what else is good?
>>
>>3040850
>citation needed
>>
>>3040889
App for your phone.
Will do both incident and scene metering.
Very accurate.
Very cheap.
You already have the hardware on you.
>>
>>3040909
Unfortunately every night meter app I have used on android has been ass, even the paid ones.
>>
>>3040917
Did you use some display protection? I noticed sometimes these give a bad reading. Usually people report lightmeter app as being very accurate.
>>
>>3040409
just get a real digital camera, retard.
>>
>>3040917
Light meter (updated version of lightmeter tools pro) works great as long as you have a decent handset, both reflective and incident meter are perfect on my p9.
>>
>>3040894

Source: The continued existence of light meter companies. There aren't enough cinematographers to keep them in existence.
>>
>>3040850
Because these people want to be sure, have to be sure, and can afford to be sure. Anon with his plastic bag camera case and bargain basement K1000 isn't and shouldn't be spending the $400 or whatever on a Sekonic.
>>
>>3040909

>using an app
>not using a proper lightmeter
>>
>>3041032
>buying superfluous, expensive gear to enhance your hipster meme aesthetic.
>>
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>>3040993
this.
>>
>>3040917
Your anus. The app gives exact the same reading as my F3 or any digital nikon in center weighted metering mode.
Thread posts: 24
Thread images: 3


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