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4x5 Point and Shoot

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Thread replies: 45
Thread images: 12

File: 4x5-point-n-shoot.jpg (250KB, 960x960px) Image search: [Google]
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You have any ideas or examples of a simple system to retain a 4x5 film holder? Maybe some kind of spring clip system?

Pic: Second prototype of a 4x5 camera I'm building.
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File: point-n-shoot-4x5-114-xs.jpg (306KB, 999x799px) Image search: [Google]
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One of the first frames from the 4x5 camera prototype. I didn't quite hit the focus, but no vignetting or other problems as far as I can tell.
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I like it
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>>3031440
How do you focus it?

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>3031457
Yeah, I know about the travelwide. I was curious if there are other methods of film holder clips. The springs on the travelwide look hard to get perfect.

That's a focusing helicoid behind the lens. I haven't calibrated the helicoid on this camera yet. I set the camera to infinity more or less using a ground glass. I'll calibrate in one of the next prototype generations when the body of the camera is made of plywood.
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File: dayi45.jpg (56KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3031440

The chinks already created one

http://www.bhcamera.us/dayi45.php
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>>3031477
Naw that's cheating, that camera doesn't come with the film back.
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>>3031491

Film holders cost like 5 bucks used
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File: film-back.jpg (23KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3031495
I'm not talking about film holders. I'm talking about the thing that *holds* the film holder. From the Dayi 4x5 page "4x5 Large Format monorail View Camera ground glass and film back(not included)"
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>>3031499

slap a toyo one on it
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>>3031477
> bh-camera.us

seems legit
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>>3031440
M A D M A N
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>>3031440
Did you make the back yourself, or slap an existing one on? What's your front body made of? I've been thinking of trying this myself.
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File: plans.jpg (103KB, 999x749px) Image search: [Google]
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>>3032645
I'm working on a back design. I'm probably going to build something like the photo from >>3032493 . The current prototype of the camera just has a lip around the edge that the film holder slides into, and I put a little bit of electrical tape around the film holder.

Currently my plan is to sand a piece of plywood to precisely 5mm (5mm is the distance from the front a film holder to the film). Then make a cut out the size of the 4x5 image area and clip on a ground-glass on the back of the 5mm plywood (gonna try making ground glass too). Then use some kind of spring arm system to hold the plywood/ground-glass in place. There will be small divots in the plywood back to receive the end of the spring arm to keep it from falling out.

I've built cameras before where I took some kind of film back off a donor camera, but for this camera I want it to be compact and lightweight.

This prototype of the camera is built out of black foamcore and black electrical tape. The foamcore is really easy to cut so it's a great prototyping material and it's light tight enough you don't have to worry. The next version of the camera will be built out of 5mm plywood which is still pretty easy to work with.

Working on a spreadsheet that given a film holder dimension and a lens focal length the spreadsheet will output all the dimensions to build the camera.
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>>3032732
Can I see your watch pls?
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>>3032842
It's a Hamilton Kakhi (H70455533). I have a Maratac Silicone band on it.

I've been wearing it more or less 24hrs a day for the last year.

I wanted a watch that had a domed sapphire crystal, 8hz automatic movement, and a simple military-style face.
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>>3031440
Very interesting stuff my man, I have not a thing for you but good luck.
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>>3032732
Serious question: where do I buy good calipers? I want some for some photography jury-rig projects of my own. Don't know where to get good ones.
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>>3033011
Basically any of the $20 calipers on amazon will be identical. Just make sure you get one of the ones made of metal not plastic. They are plenty accurate for basically any home project (including building cameras). Your inaccuracy in cutting stuff at home is way higher than the inaccuracy in the calipers.

If you really want to spend more money for a possibly higher quality product look at Mitutoyo brand stuff. If you really really care, you can get Mitutoyo with a certificate showing that it's been certified to a NIST standard.
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>>3033186
Thanks! The LF camera project similar to this that I'm eyeing is to take 3 or 4 Jupiter lenses and set them up in series to get a 4 way overlapping image, kind of like a sheet-size nishika.
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>>3033210
Sounds like fun. The hard part for you will, I think, be the shutter. Have you given that any thought? You looked at Packard shutters?
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>>3033296
Packard shutters is exactly where I wa thinking. For a prototype I'm going to skip it, though. Originally I was going to make a custom lensboard, and use them as barrel lenses. The flange focal distance however, is very short: 30mm or something. The reason I want the calipers is to see if there's even enough room in the depression of a recessed board to fit their barrels against eachother. Might not be enough room horizontally.
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>>3033309
Ah yeah. Makes sense. You might look at enlarger lenses. Typically pretty small diameter and pretty cheap. Most will have longer flange distance.
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>>3033334
That's what I'm thinking. I currently have a different project going involving LF UV photography, and the 80mm EL-Nikkor lenses can be had for as low as 30$. covers 6x6, should be perfect.
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>>3033427
>6x6 -- is that 6x6 inches or 6x6 cm?

LF UV sounds like fun. Do the EL-Nikkor lenses pass enough UV to make it worth while?
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File: gg.jpg (98KB, 999x749px) Image search: [Google]
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I made two 4x5 ground glasses this morning. It was shockingly easy. Bought a few bucks of 400 grit silicon carbide, and ground it with water between two sheets of glass for 15 minutes.

Photo is of a test with a small format lens. The room was very bright. Looks pretty good to me.
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>>3033458
holy shit. looking good OP. i think im making myself an LF camera for my kodalith sheets.
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>>3033456

They should. The 80mm performs very well down to about 350nm. 6x6cm; it doesn't cover LF. The 135mm I got isn't thoroughly tested but might transmit okay, considering the other lenses of its vintage (chrome-bottomed, older models) and series transmit enough to make photographs without taking hours.

Current issue is that I need a spare shutter to mount it in, and that costs dollars. I'm not getting regular work these days, so it may be a while yet. The lens mount thread on a Copal 1 is 39x0.75, which matches the thread of the enlarger lenses.

I'm really eager to get on this, though, because as far as I can tell online, no one else today is doing much LF UV. I'd be on my own. Quite exciting.
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>>3033530
>6x6cm; it doesn't cover LF.
I was getting excited about it covering large format and being $30.

Seems like with the slow exposure times of UV you could get by with using a lens cap or even just using the dark slide.

I have a little box camera that I built that uses an enlarger. I normally shoot photo paper in it and stop it down to f/22. My exposure is long enough I just use the dark slide as the shutter.

What kind of filter are you using to block the visible light? I looked into shooting digital UV a few years back, and bought some kind of dichroic filter that blocks a lot of visible light...
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>>3033546
>using dark slide

That's how it's going to be to start. I'd prefer the shutter to make it a much smoother, simpler process. I'm also mulling over getting some UV lights + two pairs of goggles for indoor portraits. Some of the weaker lamps that emit in the lower energy part of the UV spectrum (which is also what my lenses best transmit) aren't terribly unsafe.

>Which filter?

I'm using a B + W 403 filter. It's not the best. I looked at some of the Hoya ones and liked their curves better. Problem is that they're hard to find on eBay without being sold by sketchy stores that mount or cut the glass themselves. Lots of Chinese outfits produce Hoya and Schott glass, lacking the Western/Japanese level of quality control. Online shops will buy the raw stock and sell cut glass at obscene prices.

>Digital UV

Digital UV is doable. What's funny is that, from my limited reading, I've come to understand that some emulsions have a greater response to UV than most digital sensors. Digital sensors are much more suited to IR.
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>>3033551
I'll start keeping an eye out for UV filters. It'd be fun to experiment more.

I have shot a fair amount of digital IR, even took the IR filter off of one of my cameras.
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File: 4x5.jpg (542KB, 999x999px) Image search: [Google]
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Going to shoot a few sheets of film today. This is the next prototype with a basic film back, and a sheet of ground glass for focusing.

I am building a huge spreadsheet to calculate all the dimensions of camera given some input about the lens and the film format. I have not had to do this much math since high school.
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>>3034671
>he doesn't use Fidelity holders
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>>3033458
pls keep posting
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>>3034721
Riteway is cheap and fine.
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>>3033933
>removing the filter yourself

Was it hard? My girlfriend has an old Rebel she doesn't use and I've thought about converting it to full spectrum. My concern is that I'm a clumsy piece of shit and it looks like it's easy to fuck. That and I don't have the tools. They must cost a fortune here in Cananadannda.
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>>3034891
On a rebel It is totally a pain to do. Bunch of screws and you have to desolder a few things. You will probably break it if you don't take apart electronics on a regular basis. https://www.lifepixel.com/tutorials/infrared-diy-tutorials/canon-rebel-xt-350d
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File: point-n-shoot-4x5-123-sm.jpg (252KB, 777x999px) Image search: [Google]
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Getting closer. Shot 6 sheets today. Had some light leaks, but that doesn't really surprise me. In the next prototype I'll fix that issue. But good news is, no vignetting and pretty good sharpness from just shooting at the hyperfocal distance.

Shooting Arista EDU Ultra 400 pushed to 1600 developed for 20 minutes at 68F in a 1:9 dilution of Arista Premium Developer.
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>>3034912
Oh, yikes, okay. I do not regularly dismantle electronics. Not sure if that's smart.
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>>3035098
This is good
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File: 4x5-new.jpg (343KB, 999x799px) Image search: [Google]
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Pretty terrible light leak in the bottom right-hand corner of this one. I just smudged over it to make it less distracting.

Getting done with the last bit of math for the next prototype. Protip, the actual height of a sheet of material when it's sitting at an angle is the hypotenuse that goes through the length of the sheet. My prototypes kept coming out 5 or so millimeters too tall...
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>>3036125

thanks for this thread m8. Keep posting on here i really am interested in your progress. When i have more time i will give this a go as well. Do you have a google doc with information for this project by any chance?
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>>3036209
I'll keep posting as I build!

I'm getting there on the google doc. I'll release it when I get all the math figured out.
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>>3036301
Thanks so much!
Thread posts: 45
Thread images: 12


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