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Film General Thread

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Old thread >>3022311

This is the Film General Thread: "Long Exposure" Edition.

This is a place to post about anything film related. Processing, scanning, developing, gear, etc is all fair game.

Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>>
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posting here because new thread

Got my first rangefinder, a Hi-Matic 7s for about 4$. it seems to be in an "average-good" shape, shutter works in all speeds (seems a bit rough about winding, if i don't wind all the way up shutter doesn't fire) and it seems to even have a working meter. lens seems to be a bit scratched but i guess i don't gonna know how good or bad it is until a try a roll of film.
Also, the aperture and shutter speed rings are a bit hard to manipulate, are they supposed to be smooth? and being my first rangefinder, it is supposed to be so quiet?
My other 35mm is a rebranded Cosina C1 and certainly is loud when firing, with this one i think it makes more noise pressing the shutter button than actually the shutter working.
any tips here?
>>
Anyone watched Azriel Knights latest videos? He's been doing experiments on agitation and I was quite surprised by the results. There was virtually no difference on the aggressiveness of the agitation (gentle, normal, vigorous), and then when he did the frequency test it turned out that doing no agitation makes for a pretty low contrast image, but the difference between normal agitation and continuous agitation was much, much smaller than you'd expect. This was with HC110 and TX400. Kind of throws into sharp relief how lenient you can be with black and white developing and still get a usable image.

The videos are a little long but the tests are pretty good, he shows the results at the end.
Agitation speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Uu1-KNHAhE
Agitation frequency (this is the better of the two vids): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iDcggT3l0I
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Could I get some thoughts on the Holga 120? Like why is it praised so much, even by people who don't fit the hipster mold?
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>>3026499
It's a fun camera to use. Breath of fresh air from worrying about meters and exposure. I'd never pay $60+ for one though. $20 is a good price.
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>>3026499
Many reasons why it's praised:
>cheap
>it's unique
>limitation is fun for some(even me)
>great entry camera for medium formats
I personally really enjoy Holga
>pic of mines with the Holga Back
I own many medium format camera
but I always go back to it
mainly because it helps me remove anything that's professional about film and more about fun.
And most of the time, you will be blown away at the aesthetic this camera creates every time.
If you're planning on getting one, pick any of them but don't break pass 30 bucks, please.
>>
>>3026499
I guess they just really like the weird distortion it gives + beckause it's such a POS you dont care if about dropping or modding it.

I personaly dont care for it. The ergonomics and the feel of the shutter release is just offputting.

If you want something abit lo-fi it's much better to get a Lubitel or an old box camera.
>>
>>3026499
I have one found the results I got from it to be really meh. Some people like them and do well with them but they are not for me. Still might get a 35mm version though.
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I just want to say, I've never been more in love with shooting film. The bug has really bit me hard this time around. Crushed a roll of Provia on the way to work today. Absolutely beautiful light these days.

Random, unrelated pic of cross processed Provia from 2006.
>>
Would anyone be interested in some 35mm Kodak SO-279? I have 9 rolls that I'll probably never use. Pay shipping (~$20) and theyre yours. The film is for turning negatives into slides and has an ASA of 8. Could be cool for experimenting (that was my plan but I don't have a fully manual 35mm camera anymore).
>>
>>3026733
Yes pls.
>>
What's fgt think of a Pentax 67 with 75mm f/4.5 for $200?
>>
>>3026796
MLU version? Metered prism?
>>
>>3026798
MLU and WLF. Honestly not much of a reason to buy it besides having a 6x7 format, I have a 6x6 already I'm happy with.
>>
>>3026796
Wow that seems unreal but if you don't need it and you have 6x6 don't get it
>>
>>3026487
Why do you shoot in film? Seriously, I can only think of one genuine objective reason why to shoot in film.
inb4 hipsters
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>>3026818
>>
I've never shot film before, I really want to start though. Should I get a random old point and shoot film camera from keh or something? Or is there a better option?
>>
>>3026847
get an old DSLR all manual and enjoy
>>
>>3026847
Depends on why you want to start! What is it about film that attracts you compared to shooting digitally?

Point and shoot, SLR, rangefinder, toy, medium format...it's a pretty varied experience.
>>
>>3026847
That's actually how I first started
I'm this anon
>>3026507
My first camera was the golden half frame camera
Got for only 10 bucks
There are tons of 35 flim cameras that are amazing for just under 25 bucks.
Although a point and shoot would be a good start.
You won't truly be able to see the true potential on what film can do.
Plus under many circumstances, you'll be very limited due to the fixed aperture and shutter speeds.
Find a good rangefinder or an old DSLR
And then you're truly taking the right foot in film
Here a good spot to get started.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=35mm%20camera&_udhi=25&_trksid=p2045573.m1684.l5985
>>
>>3026853
I just love the look of film. I come from a filmmaking background and yeah while digital is convenient and fast and shit, I love the color and imperfections actual film gives off. I also like having to think more about shots because of the limitation on how many shots you get per roll.

I'm just starting to focus more on photography in life but i'm really enjoying it so far and I think I'll enjoy it even more shooting film.
>>
>>3026855
If you want imperfections then a toy camera or point and shoot is probably the way to go, although they don't lend themselves to thought in the same way that something like an entirely manual SLR would. If you've got any kind of modern DSLR for filming you could always pick up a cheap film body that'll fit the same lenses (mostly Canon EF or whatever version of Nikons F mount). Modern creature comforts + cheap is a pretty good combo when you don't have to factor in lens purchases.
>>
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It's time bitches.
For the latest Ferrania Shitpost that is.
Two "dispatches" have come come out in the last two weeks, new record.
This will sum those up right here.

>Make shitty video using Adobe Premiere with fucking meme music.
>Waste a minute and a half showing us your shitty equipment you described multiple times over.
>Then you realize that your *old* rubber rollers broke down over time of disuse and storage, scratching the film during production. Now you shipped off the crap to have it fixed up, and it's on the way back?
>Looks like yet another 'setback'!

>So some faggot from Fagilano was issued some rolls of your film to test.
>Inconsistent contrast, with more inconsistency between different developers beyond what one would typically expect.
>Not to mention, the faggot tested the film rolls at different speed settings, so no reliable comparison between developing processes.
>Do I see light leaks?

Yeah, I smell overpriced, unreliable garbage coming out as "The ALL-EXCLUSIVE P30 Alpha Film."
The film shop is supposed to open "later this month" to sell that shit. Yet, last I checked, there are 6 days left in February. If that's not "later in the month" then I take it next month is?
...
Profit?
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6x17 acros

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>>3026930
Very nice
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>>3026926
P30 was a cinema film, requiring a dedicated developer. Hence all the random and inconsistent results. They will test and announce later what developer(s) will be best suited.

At least according to the guy Ted Forbes recently spoke with.

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>>3026863
>>3026854

Is the Canon T50 a good choice to start with? Obviously I'm not fucking Ansel Adams but I don't want to buy a hunk of shit for my first camera either.
>>
>>3026933
>listening to Ted Forbes at all
lul
>>
>>3026926
italy.jpg
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>>3026926
i have never been ripped off in ebay. EXCEPT that one time i was dealing with italians. didnt get ripped off, but they sure tried to. fuck them.
>>
>>3026946
It's not ideal, it has the downsides of a point and shoot (lack of control) combined with the downsides of an SLR (big, loud). I have one that I bought with a lens because it was the same price as just buying a lens on its own. It's an older Canon mount called the FD mount, similar to the AE1, A1, etc which are both better cameras if you're set on going for an FD mount. There are some killer primes for it but not much else.
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>>3026947
I wanted to get a more in-depth update on Ferrania. I don't like Ted anymore. He was okay in the beginning.

>also, almost no pictures being posted.
Have some velvia 50

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>>3026959
>>also, almost no pictures being posted.
yeah this /faget/ edition is specially sucky. now if that means more individual threads, then its for the better.
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>>3026487
Doesnt counts as 'long' exposure but took this at 1/4 of a second handheld. Came out pretty well considering.

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>>3026946
I'd try to get a camera that isn't so complicated in terms of electronics. Those are old and old electronics are a bit sketchy.

On muh way to Seoul with an XA2 and a bunch of Provia. Sunny skies ahead.
>>
>>3026850
>old DSLR
>film
>DSLR

my man what do you think the D in DSLR stands for
>>
Got a Nikon FE and a Nikor MK3 50 mm 1.8 pancake lens. Both are in pristine condition and are such a leap in build quality from a canon AE-1.

Can't wait to get my first test roll done.
>>
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bumping the thread with a bit of Australiana.

Acros 100 in Ilfosol 3

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Scanned a peel apart instant film positive.

Fp-100b

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I'm considering buying Canon EOS10S for my film DSLR and a Pentax IQ Zoom EZY-R as my film point and shoot. I think that'll cover my basic needs to start off in film shooting
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>>3027041
refer to
>>3027014
>>
>>3027041
whats the appeal on having a film P&S?
>>
>>3027025
Developing time?
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>>3027050
5 minutes 20 seconds @ 1+9 dilution. I'm still experimenting with it so I might go a bit longer next time and see what happens.

5 minutes flat @ 1+9 works really well if you wanna shoot it at 80 iso
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>>3027025
Get fucked cunt.

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>>3027056
watch it mate

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>>3027048
Not that anon, but it fits in my pocket.

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>>3027048
It fits in your pocket, it gives you the benefits of film without having to exert too much effort, you could just like the look of them
>>
>>3027048
that you only need to point and then shoot to have a photo? using a point & shoot is the most pure form of photography, your mind is 100% dedicated to composition and getting the timing right. you are fully present and naturally aware of your surroundings, its a zen state.

manual plebs of course need to tweak knobs and rings all the time to feel like they are proper photographers.
>>
>>3027087
I think the last sentence is bait but I actually agree with the first part. Having nothing else but composition to worry about will always be better, and I would argue that composition is more important than anything else in photography.
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Banging some arista branded czech film.

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Thoughts on this? 30ish min exposure Kodak ektar rz67
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>>3027139
Here's some more. I think this was around 2 hours.
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>>3027141
Does anybody have any experience devving trix @ 32000 with sprint developer?
>>
>>3027139
coolio.
>>
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>>3027144
This was 1 hour exposure I think.
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>>3027147
Ektar is a really nice film. I'd love to hear some feedback, I haven't posted a thread with my stuff in a while.
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My Nikon F's veiwfinder front plate is really loose. It's in pretty good condition but the looseness worry's me a little.
>>
>>3027144
32000?? A useless endeavor.
>>
>>3027147
>>3027150
these are super clean. im jelly. my piece of shit country has garbage labs.
>>
>>3027150
I like this one quite a bit, that water is gorgeous. The wood on the bottom right jutting in is a bit distracting though.

I'd like to see some more Ektar if you have some more to post.
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>>3027155
My bad I mean 3200
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>>3027159
My ig is Instagram.com/harleythr3 if you want to see more.
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>>3027157
I use the find lab in Utah, they do really nice scans and also provide feedback if you want it which is nice but it's pretty expensive. It's 20 bucks for the pro treatment and $11 is the cheapest they do it at
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>>3027163
Also I'm sorry about the file size but I ripped it striaght from IG and I'm too lazy to resize
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>>3027144
It'll look something like this regardless of developer.

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>>3027164
id pay anything to get clean negatives. but the mongs at the labs cant be fucked to do a decent job. i want to get the fuck out of here asap.
>>
>>3027063
I like the reflection on that train
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So I was a mad man and bought it, holy fuark mates. Prepare for some snap shits tomorrow. No wonder this thing is a meme. Gonna shoot some acros 100 @ 400.

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>>3027048
They're fun as fuck to take out, require no attention, they're small, anyone can use one, non-meme ones are cheap and have decent iq, built in flash. A solid point and shoot (mjuiii, Ricoh prime compacts etc.) and Kodak gold 200 + going out is fun stuff m8.
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>>3027048
For taking shots like this.

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>>3027176
can you recommend some nice, cheap P&S?
>>
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>>3027201
Depends what your looking for? Need a zoom pic any of these fuckers, seriously any Olympus zoom is alright, mjuiii being the king. Ricoh has some nice older zone focus cameras like the xf-30, just make sure you set the zone!! Cheaper Minolta here is still decent, small form ok flash, ok optics, like $15. The 80 zooms are a lot nicer then the 115's. The one Ricoh here the af-77s is a favourite, takes AA batteries, simple focus system, has a pano mode for being a fag and has no options besides shutter. Basically find a zoom that has a small size that you can carry or basically any prime and just run with it man, love that fucker like no one has before and shoot.

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>>3027206
lets see, between:
Pentax Zoom 90 WR
Vivitar 300z
Vivitar Bv35
Vivitar PZ7000
Pentax Espio 115v
Pentax IQzoom 130m
Canon Sureshot 60zoom
Canon Prima Bf-8

Which ones of these do you recommend and why?
>>
>>3027175
>No wonder this thing is a meme
you talking about the size and weight??
>>
I'm looking at point and shoots, here are my options:

Pentax IQ Zoom EZY-80
Nikon One Touch Zoom 90S
Pentax IQ Zoom EZY-R
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>>3027040
>tfw the only way to experience the gorgeous silvery tones of FP-3000B is to pay out the ass for a single pack
>>
Noob here, I'd like to try development myself. Here's my idea of the kit:

500ml Rodinal, $16
1L Ilford rapid fixer, $10
Paterson tank, two reels, $27
darkroom thermometer, $11
650ml graduated cylinder, $9
12ml syringe with extension, $9
25 neg binder sheets, $6
$7 US shipping from freestylephoto

Totals a bit under $100. Is this a reasonable price? (Also, is this too much fixer?) I feel a bit like I'm being gipped with the little things, but I dunno if it's worth it to buy elsewhere since I'm already getting free shipping from B&H, which is where most of this is coming from.
>>
>>3027232
Sounds great.
I'd also get a changing bag.
And I'd also pay special attention to the negative sleeves you're buying.
You will want ones that have 7 rows for 6 frames.
For some inexplicable reason they also sell smaller sheets that will not hold the full 36 frames (let alone the 39 you'll get from correctly loading most older cameras).
>the reason is actually so that you can print 8x10 contact sheets without taking the negs out, but fuck me, it's 2020, nobody makes contact sheets
>>
>>3027232
>I'm already getting free shipping from B&H
lucky bastard, it cost me $75aud to ship basically the same stuff plus a few other things
>>
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This is from awhile back. I put some Kodak Portra in a Minolta Weathermatic P&S. I was very happy with the results. Especially the shadow detail on this roll.

btw does no one care about resizing images anymore. Just wanted to be on the same page. It's been awhile for me.

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>>3026930
You the same guy who posted 617 a few threads ago?

I got a nice one, with a beautiful set of lenses in the mail and then the fucking post dropped it on the ground and marked everything up. Still waiting to get back the 2000 NZD insurance.
>>
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Does anyone have any pointers and tips for shooting with studio Lights? I'm using the digital camera first to meter the image then i'm not having much success on getting the flash right for the film. Any suggestions?

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>>3027318
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1219217-REG/sekonic_401_307_l_308s_u_flashmate_light_meter.html

Try getting a second hand one for dirt cheap.
>>
>>3027316
Yeah, might've been me.

>post dropped it on the ground and marked everything up
That's unfortunate. Will it be returned to the seller? Maybe he can then verify if it's still good, and sell it back to you for a discounted price.
>>
>>3027250
>>3027232
>I'd also get a changing bag.
Only if you don't have a room with no lights. Fumble bags are shit.
>>
>>3027323
I've developed literally hundreds of rolls with my changing bag, they're no hassle at all.
This might surprise you to hear, but when you don't live in a slavic shithole where the houses are all made of stones piled up in a bitter icy wasteland 400 years ago, most houses have windows in every single room, and effectively lightproofing any one of them every time you want to develop film is a massive fuckaround.
Also, good luck taking your laundry out into the field to load sheet film holders.
>>
>>3027209
They're all basically the same, I'd go prima bf-8 cause AA batteries, prime, huge ass viewfinder and easy operation. I've only used a couple of those hands on but that's what I'd say, also the prima's are dirt cheap.

>>3027222
Literally all the same essentially, I'd get the smallest one or the one with the cheapest batteries.
>>
>>3027221
I guess saying it's iconic is more accurate than a meme but yeah it's surreally large in person.
>>
>>3027323
They can be shit but I'd always recommend one, they're very handy, small af, pretty cheap and if you learn to work with one, and not fight against it, they do their job well.
>>
>>3027366
when buying a P&S is better a prime+big viewfinder than a zoom+normal viewfinder?
im trying to decide between the prima and the sureshot
>>
>>3027443
Depends what you're shooting, I find even with a zoom I rarely end up using it. Really up to your shooting style.
>>
>>3027448
i was thinking of the sureshot because is moderate, a 38/60 mm. don't want tele but 60mm is more than enough for portraits without too much distortion.
but the prima using AA batteries is tempting
>>
>>3027450
Well if your wanting to do any non distorted portraits then the zoom is definilty required but it takes Cr123 batteries and they cost a mint compared to the camera itself so I'd way out the situation see how much cash you have and remember any camera and film is better then a camera and no film.
>>
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>>3027450
Also found this it tldr says 17 rolls of 24exp with 50% flash use per battery.
>>
>>3026796
>>3026798
>>3026802
>>3026809
Update on the 6x7 just shot a test roll and the negs turned out clean so it's all working. Now to get a prism, I already like the control of it over my mamiya c330.
>>
Lads, from experience, is it worth inviting girls out on shoots?

Also, I've only got an old Olympus 101, I've shot some great pictures with it over the years but was going to ask where I should go next? Worth playing with cheap filmies or save up for a more expensive one?
>>
What's the development recipe for Maco AQS Eagle traffic monitoring film? Exposed at 400 per box, using HC-110. Asking because there's no HC-110 recipe on MDC for this film.

(repost from dead thread.)
>>
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just getting back into film photography after a four year hiatus lol

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>>
>>3027507
"Use the times for Retro 400S as a starting time and take it from there."
"Worked well for me."

Retro 400S is 6:30 on massive dev chart, dil B
>>
anyone ever brought and used aerochrome?
>>
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>>3027463
>implying a 90's point and shoot zoom won't distort terribly, give a non-portrait minimum focus distance, be soft as fuck, force flash due to f/9 max aperture
Shoot portraits with the prime, stop sucking.
>>3027366
>They're all basically the same, I'd go prima bf-8 cause AA batteries, prime, huge ass viewfinder
This guy knows whats up.
AA's uber alles.
>and this coming from a person who keeps stock for every lithium size
But also, Canon P&S's are mostly garbage.
My Sureshot Supreme was just generally soft, a total pain to defeat flash, ate fucking 2CR5's for breakfast (which you need a phillips head screwdriver to change) heaps of shutter lag and weighed a tonne. Almost every other prime lensed model they released just stripped features and dumbed down to "your mum can literally use this now" levels of basic.
If you want to avoid meme tax and still get a great prime-lensed compact, look for Pentax PC models. Probably the sharpest of all of my compacts besides the Fuji HD-M (which was a $400 camera when new) and still dirt cheap, take AA's.

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First time posting on here mostly just browse this board. I'm currently using the CLE and m rokkor 40mm mostly for just random snapshits. I've been wanting to get more into portraits and realize that I dont really have the ideal lens (and maybe body?) for portraits. I was thinking about getting the m rokkor 90mm maybe. Advice?

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>>3027514
Yeah, ok. I'm gonna develop a test clip in 1:25 Rodinal, and then bracket my way into a suitable HC-110(b) time by comparison with how the reference looks.
>>
>>3027530
>m rokkor 90mm
It will probably be the cheapest and sharpest* M-mount lense you'll ever buy, why not?
>*presuming your rangefinder is accurate
The only problems with an RF for portraits are running into the minimum focus distance and parallax close up, as well as focus and recompose technique, but the advantage is no finder blackout, which means you know if you got the shot, or if they blinked or twitched or whatever.
>>
>>3027529
>Pentax IQzoom 130m
>Canon Sureshot 60zoom
>Canon Prima Bf-8
Let's reduce to these three
which one would u get?
>>
>>3027530
I was looking at prices for these the other day. Very nice cameras but I can't quite convince myself to get one.
>>
>>3027543
These are all terrible options but the Pentacks is the least worst.
Seriously, why is this your list?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Pentax-PC-333-Auto-Focus-35mm-Camera-with-Case-/112308900629?hash=item1a2621d315:g:HkIAAOSwUKxYcWen
>>
How do you guys convert your film to digital to get it on your pc?
>>
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>>3027561
With a scanner
>>
>>3027564

More specifically which one do you recommend
>>
>>3027536
Yeah i find that the minimum focus distance is one of the only problems i have with it. I was actually wondering if getting a 90mm would help with that problem for taking portraits closer? I actually don't know much about different lenses other than being recommended a 90mm for portraits.

>>3027544
Its a really neat camera. I like it cause its small, easy to use, and rangefinders are fun for me. It was actually an upgrade from using an Olympus 35 sp that had a broken light meter.
>>
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>>3027561
take photos of the negatives with a dslr
>>
>>3027571
>tri-x pushed to 1600
>>
>>3027568

Epson V600 for 120mm and lower

Epson v800/850 for 4x5 and lower
>>
>>3027575
My V600 won't focus on my film with the included film holder, what to do?
>>
>>3027592
raise or lower the film until it's in focus.
>>
>>3027599
I don't have height adjustable holders so rip. But I will try to get it focused properly though, thanks.
>>
Is the Yashica Expression a good point and shoot?
>>
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I've wanted to get into photography for a while, thought this was a really good way to get into it. On a sidenote, is expired film worth buying?

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>>3027612
Depends what film, how long it has been expired, and where it was stored.

B&W films keep better than colour. C41 colour keeps better than E6, or so the local lab told me.

Low ISO films keep better than high ISO films. All films eventually decay beyond usefulness, though. 40 years in a cupboard is bad for film of any speed. 40 years in a lead bag in a freezer? Maybe. 40 years in a freezer? Ehh, it'll be noticeably degraded. Colour films don't benefit from long term freezing in the same way B&W films do, because the freezing process can fuck with the dyes over decades.

With all that said, you can still end up with surprises. Grant sent me 40 year old film, and it is nearly fine. E6, too!
>>
>>3027614
Thanks man, looking at mainly C41 film on ebay because anything else is a pain in the ass to get developed here, but I suppose it's not worth it unless I was going for that sorta look
>>
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How dumb of an idea is it to buy an R8?
>>
>>3027618
super. they are ugly as fuck.
>>
>>3027617
>that sorta look
The only look you get from expired film is reduced saturation of colours, ridiculous grain, fog, and sometimes wonky colours. Sure, some folks find it charming. More than anything it just looks like shit. Only shoot it if you're getting it for a lot less than retail/market price, it was cold stored, and it's not that old (20 years tops). Also shoot it if it the above is true and it's a nice type of film not made anymore, like tungsten balanced fujifilm.
>>
I found a Ricoh TF-500 for $13. I'm super excited, I've heard good things about it.
>>
Anyone have ever shoot this stuff? Just got this box of 120 rolls for $35.
>>
so i know the latitude for velvia 50 is 5 stops
does anyone know the latitude for Provia?
>>
>>3027671
>3027671
I've never shot it but I'm jealous you got such a good deal on film
>>
You have $2000 to build a full run and gun rig for online short film content (mic, lenses, everything). Versatility is key.

Go

Yes im going to take your ideas for a job
>>
>>3027718
I find Konica and Agfa 120/220 films oftentimes go unnoticed. Keep your eyes peeled!

>>3027724
Wrong thread bud. This is the film PHOTOGRAPHY thread as in still pictures.
>>
>shoot my nikon F100 today for the first time in like 5 years
>take a couple shots
>battery dies
>charge some of the batteries
>put them back in
>doesn't turn on
>check the battery holder.
>one of the batteries was upside down.
>but there was also a slight burning smell
camera now won't turn on. i even tried 4 fresh double As
wtf did i do? is my camera fried?
>>
how do i get rid of these lines from negatives in lightroom? is the spot removal tool the only option?
>>
>>3027739
just pass it over to ps imo. i dont even fuck with editing in lightroom, photoshop is so much better
>>
>>3027741
that means i have to buy photoshop too :/ why is it better? and what tool would take care of it?
>>
>>3027744
healing brush or even clone stamp should be able to do a better job.

>buy
kek. try the spot removal in lightroom and see how you like the results. it's still /okay/ for really minor stuff.
>>
UV LF retard here:
my fucking adapters still haven' t arrived. It turned out that while the modern version of my 80mm EL-Nikkor uses a 40.5mm filter (a step ring I already had), the old chrome barrel version requires an esoteric diameter of 34.5mm. Guy was out of brass stock, so the ring was only sent the other day.

As for the 135mm, which is untested online, I need a 43-46mm step ring that is taking forever to arrive from China. I've had everything else I've needed for a whole month. The waiting is killing me.
>>
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>>3027671
I like it. This is at 80, mine was quite expired.

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>>3027671
>>3027761

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>>3027671
>>3027762
This was just a guessed exposure. They're all 6x9 Fuji btw.
>>
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>>3027763
>>3027671
This was a less successful guess.

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ektar 100 shot with a leica m4 and 50mm f2.8 elmar lens.
good shot? how's the editing?

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>>3027735
>is my camera fried?
yes,
kek prevails.
>>
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>>3027771
its a cool shot. i like it. quite in the tradition of martin parr. the vulgar, the grotesque in pop culture and public spaces.

your shot was overexposed, your edit was too bright and green, and even if it was correctly white balanced, colors were washed out. luminance can help bring back color values.

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>>3027789
thank you, your edit looks fantastic. what exactly did you alter, aside from the exposure? so i can try to recreate it... i'm a complete lightroom noob
>>
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spam a few shots of 400h

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>>3027822

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>>3027793
photoshop. went color for color and altered luminosity, saturation and hue values, the later to create stronger color contrast relationships.
>>
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>>3027823

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>>
Which should I get?

Ricoh TF-500
Yashica Expression
Canon Sure Shot
Canon Snappy AF
Vivtar Viva
>>
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>>3027825
this was my first ever roll of 400h, shot at 200 but felt the results were a little underwhelming. Next roll I'm shooting at 400 so we'll see.
Will post some ektar shots from barcelona/bergen/amsterdam/perth australia if anyone wants?

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>>3027761
>>3027762
>>3027763
Thanks for these examples. Got me hyped! I'm planning to rate it at 100 and see where it goes from there. It's dated 2005 but has apparently been freezer stored. We'll see.

>>3027826
Nobody has heard of any of those. Most likely none of them are too great. Get whatevers cheap and in good working condition.
>>
>>3027826
>all those literal whos

look, since youre in the realm of super shitty p&s... at least get a cool one: the konica tomato. grills will flock to you.
>>
Have you guys seen this?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2017788873/lab-box-the-first-multi-format-daylight-loading-fi/description

It's a promising start. They're planning on automated agitation and temperature control. If I was still teaching elementary, I'd snatch up the 5 pack. Perfect for older students and no dark room or fiddling with bags.
>>
>>3027826
dude just raid all the thrift stores around you and buy any cheap point and shoots that use AA batteries.

canon snappy k (aka snappy ez) is my favorite garbage p&s that i have.
>>
Just got my P67 in the mail and all is good, except the fucking wood handle won't come off. It should be as simple as unscrewing the side screw and pulling down, right, or am I severely autistic?

>http://pentax67.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/P67-grip_bracket_ring.pdf
>To remove the grip, lay the camera down and loosen the attachment screw. Then, slide the entire grip downward pulling the attachment screw head as shown in the photo
>mfw the photo doesn't show shit
I've tried pulling the screw in all directions and still nothing is moving
>>
>>3027835
>500ml
>single roll
come on.
>>
>>3027835
Looks like it would be great for beginners.
>>
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>>3027829
one from barcelona
ektar 100
yashica electro 35

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>>
>>3027841
Never mind I got it, something fucky was going on with the opposite side of the attachment screw, it had somehow loosened
>>
>>3027844
How do you like the electro? I've been thinking about buying one
>>
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>>3027851
I don't really, it's fine but it's basically a large P&S.
Use my OM1 almost exclusively now.
Bergen
Ektar
Yashica Electro 35

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>>
I just copped a Canon EOS 10s. I'm super fucking excited
>>
>>3027842
The film chamber has to be wide enough for both 35mm and 120. Not that big of a deal to me but I see how it would be to some people.
>>
>>3027842
Presumably, due to only interacting with one roll of film, it's expended half as much as doing two rolls with the same 500mL?
>>
>>3027860
not useful if you want do something like use d76 1:2
>>
>>3027842
you can use 270ml of solution if you do constant agitation and adjust the developing time slightly (15% reduction from memory).

The Agfa Rondinax daylight dev tanks are exactly the same design as this 'new' one, so there's a lot of information already out there on how best to use these
>>
>>3027753
UV LF? So like, regular collodion/unsensitized silver halide emulsions in general, or do you plan on sticking a uv pass filter over everything?
>>
>>3027753
UV or UW?
>>
Where do you guys buy your batteries from? Amazon?
>>
>>3027610
Not really....
>>
>>3027483
Congrats! I also switched from a TLR to a 6x7 MLU with metered prism, 45mm and 90mm. Lovely camera and really fun to use, the weight is pretty crazy with the prism tho, be warned. The strap of my camera bag ripped off when I took out the Pentax for the second or third time.
>>
Can someone name some good P&S that use AA batteries?
>>
>>3027041
I'd skip the 10S and go for an EOS 300V if I were you. Dirt cheap mint bodies all around. I got one about a month ago and I'm in love with it as the backup to my OM-2N.
>>
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>>3028024
>10S
has unique powers of shooting unsprocketholed film, so has a place.
>>3028024
>EOS 300(/V)
What a camera. So plastic, so perfect.

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>>3028049
To be honest my knowledge of the perks of a 10S is almost nonexistent and I agree with your point about the 300V being kind of a plastic toy. I just thought that it may be a better choice for a cheap starter.
>>
>>3028049
>>3028024

Eh, the 10S was like $7, so I can't really go wrong with that. Once I use it a little I'll buy the 300V
>>
>>3028066
Keep in mind that the 10S was released in the 90s and only has 3 AF points, while the 300V was released in 2002 with 7 AF points. Which, if you plan to shoot full manual, means nothing.

Similar build quality, same lens mount but more recent means higher chances of getting a better quality body.
>>
>>3028068
I don't shoot manual all that often but I might as well get better at it
>>
>>3028071
Fair enough, have fun!
>>
>>3028075
Thanks. I know it's kind of a piece of shit, but I spent $7 and it's my first SLR and im using it as sort of an intro to shooting film. If it sucks too much I'll just toss it into the trash
>>
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>>3028009
What's with the stupid requirement?
>>
>>3026487
>>3028116
>Have fun! Remember, there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers.
>>
>>3027739
Can you see them on the actual negative? Better to solve the problem rather than just treat the symptoms.
>>
>>3028117
Not a stupid question but a stupid requirement.
>>
Just got back from the shop where I had Ilford XP2 developed and printed. All the shots were taken different times of day; bright, dim, inside, outside, different apertures, yet every picture is grainy as FUCK.

Did they not develop the film properly? What's going on?
>>
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>>3028141
You might have just hella underexposed it?
>>
>>3028149
Scanner grain or processing artifacts. Next time, do your own scans.
>>
Hi, i posted >>3026494 at the start of the thread.
working a bit more the camera, i discovered that the shutter gets stuck about 50%of the time or more.
sometimes the camera opens the shutter like fifteen shots in a row, and sometimes i can work like 20 times the action and shutter doesn't work. The winding action has been keeping more "soft" after all the work has been getting, my question is:
It seems like the shutter isn't completely stuck, but it's on it's way to. if i keep operating the mechanism am i in risk of breaking something? or firing the shutter repeteadly can get it "unstuck" as it seems to work sometimes?

another question: how bad it is to have the front element of the lens scratched? what can i expect if i can sometime take pictures with this thing?
>>
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>>3028081
>>3028068
>>3028066
I'm not knocking either camera, they can both mount and use the very best 35mm lenses available, and have a comprehensive selection of exposure controls, and can trigger a flash.
As far as I'm concerned that makes them equal best 35mm camera you could possibly own.
That little 40mm in my photo costs like $100, and is technically flawless. If they'd released it in M-mount they could charge 2 grand for it and nobody would bat an eye. And then you've got ridiculous shit like the new 100-400mm, the 11-24, the Tampon image stabilised f/1.8 range.
There's no other line of film cameras that can touch the EOS system for lense quality and versatility in 2017.

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>>
>>3028257
Front element scratch is almost definitely no big deal. At worst you might get some weird lens flare looking stuff at wide apertures shooting into the sun, but likely you'll not even notice.

The shutter is probably fucked though, the decades old grease will have gummed up and started to solidified.
>>
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>>3028149
>>3028141
It's fine, moron.
You just got memed by idiots that claim chromogenic B&W is "virtually grainless".
Is any other C-41 film "grainless"?
No.
Don't be stupid.

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From sometime last summer

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>>
>>3027873
I bought a B+W 403 filter, and I'm using it with fluorite glass lenses. It's a visible light filter. Some of the old EL-Nikkors have enough in them that they transmit just about enough to make UV-A photos.

I read online that your average black and white film is relatively sensitive to UV, although not amazingly. The shit I'm using for 4x5 is Ektachrome B/RA x-ray film; normal film.

I have the 80mm for my Nikon FE2, which supposedly transmits the most UV of all the UV transmitting EL-Nikkors. I read that the blue dye in old tungsten balanced films might be sensitive to UV-A, and so I'm thinking of giving that a go for some weird violet/blue pictures.

The 135mm I chose for the 4x5 covers 4x5 but is untested for general UV transmission. It is implied by its close peers to transmit UV, although it is unclear just how much it actually does. We'll see. I figure I'll get the hang of things with the Nikon and the 80mm, and then work my way up.
>>
>>3028295
>I bought a B+W 403 filter, and I'm using it with fluorite glass lenses. It's a visible light filter. Some of the old EL-Nikkors have enough in them that they transmit just about enough to make UV-A photos.

Oof, that's a mess of paragraph. I meant to say that some of the old EL-Nikkors are just fluorite-y enough to transmit acceptable amounts of UV-A for picture making.
>>
>>3027882
Ultra-violet light. What do you mean by UW?
>>
>>3028262
i've read a bit about how to get to the shutter, but i've never done a camera repair so i'm not risking it
>>
>>3027513
dude looks like he's pissing in the right image
>>
>>3028299
look at the big brains on brad...
>>
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>>3026509
>If you want something abit lo-fi it's much better to get a Lubitel
>>
What are some good starter 4x5 field bodies and lenses?
>>
>tfw went to lab today to get film developed, 2 rolls of negative and 4 slide
>tfw 180 europoors including scanning
>tfw the two negs were like 13 each
fucking hell developing slides is getting pricey af
>>
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Anyone else taking advantage of /film/ to be able to get dirt cheap gear?

I've got an AE1 Program which I got with a 50mm 1.4 for 120 euros, a 28mm 2.8 which I got for 50, a 100-300 5.6 which I got for 99 (including its qt3.14 original carrying case) and a 35-70 3.5 which I got for 70 usd.

I once calculated how many rolls I had to shoot to offset the same gear on a DSLR. Don't remember how many it was, but it was at least a couple hundreds of rolls.

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>>
>>3028342
>$340 for babby tier manual focus SLR and 2 lenses
Anon, I...
>>
>>3028342
>>3028344
yeah holy fug lol

My main camera cost me $25 for the body and $15 each for the 28/35/50 lenses. That's cheap

Also did you calculate development costs in your equation? If you're developing at home the price is negligible but if you're paying someone to do it the price mounts up quick
>>
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>>3028117
I make these threads, I know what I wrote. It isn't a stupid question, it's a stupid requirement through. I can't fathom why one would base a camera choice on whether it uses AA batteries.

>>3028129
What did you rate it at?

>>3028337
So God damn thankful for my lab for charging $7/roll for e6.
>>
>>3028342
I've easily exceeded the cost of my a7 in developing/film cost in the past year. Averaging $100/mo.
>>
>>3028348
What lab do you use? Vancouver, right? I'm curious who still does MF
>>
>>3028344
>>3028346
>buying a 30 year old camera from a dubious seller without knowing if it is in good condition
enjoy losing your precious photos when it breaks down you dumb jews
>>
>>3028348
>So God damn thankful for my lab for charging $7/roll for e6.
jelly af
>>
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>>3028353
Yeah that's Vancouver. I love in Japan now though.

Kerrisdale Camera does c41 dev only 35mm and 120 for $4.49, 220 for $4.99. The Lab does 120 e6 for $10-$12/roll dev only. If Kerrisdale is more convenient they send e6 to The Lab and charge the same price.
>>
>>3028354
ok pal
>>
>>3028361
I'm not your pal, asshole
>>
>>3028358
Cheers I'll have to look into them, need to break the Yashicamat out of retirement.

>>3028342
Pleasantly surprised to put a pretty pristine Bessa R setup together with two solid lenses for like $450 CAD
>>
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>>3028364
Take it out! If you get in before 3pm they can do c41 same day, even 120/220.
>>
>>3028348
For people asking for cheap point and shoots it makes the most sense that they also use the cheapest batteries, and I'm pretty sure generic AAs are that. I'm talking buying cameras for sub $20.
>>
>>3028335
Speed graphic/crown graphic
I mean their press cams not view cams but good if you're a beginner
>>
>>3028348
>I make these threads, I know what I wrote. It isn't a stupid question, it's a stupid requirement through

>admitting to OP-ing these dogshit-tier /fgt/s
>not realising what a massive tactical advantage it is to use the worlds most commonly and cheaply available battery
>not realising that the best nikon, oly, pentax, fuji compacts all take AA's
>>
>>3028335
Are we talking "starter" in terms of cost, or in terms of complexity? Ideal starter is a Canham DLC. Shit is simple, well made, American, and can be had for under 1000$ if you watch forums/auctions. I've seen them go for less than 1000$ at least three times in the last 12 months.

If cost is a concern, get an old Cambo or Toyo. Toyo G's, I believe, can be found for 400$ or less, and they're solid. Monorails are the way to go if you're not backpacking with it. They're so unwieldy that everyone is selling and the market is saturated with them.
>>
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Got a film question that doesn't deserve it's own thread:

I have Yashica FX-2 35mm with a 50mm lens that I picked up off eBay. It's in great shape, but it has an odd little streak that comes up on a lot of pictures I take (pic related, in the lower right hand corner). It doesn't happen every time, but does happen frequently. Anyone know what could cause that?
>>
>>3028299
look at the filename lol
>>
Has anyone played around with a leica cl? If so what are some problems or quirks I would expect to rube into?
>>
>>3028390
Run not rube. Damn autocorrect
>>
>>3028297
Sorry that your blogpost was entirely unclear. I'll make sure to unsubscribe from it for future updates.
>>
>tfw my camera doesn't have a 'T' setting

I'm too poor to shell out money for a $15 locking shutter release cable. Why would you include a B setting but not a T setting?
>>
>>3028335
I sure am glad the others decided to just throw models at you without asking you a single question in return. Though it is your own fault for not having the foresight to state your needs first

What are you looking to use the camera for? Studio portraits? Check out monorol systems. Backpacking and shooting in the field? Field camera.
Look at how light you need the camera to be, if you need lightweight pick up a wooden framed camera.
What movements do you require, what type of work are you shooting? If you need camera movements or plan to shoot wide angle, then you'll probably need a camera which can accept bag bellows. If you're planning to shoot portraits or use a lens over 300mm, you'll be limited by some field cameras.

Speed/Crown graphic and monorails are the cheap way in but depending on your budget there are lots of good field options too. If you have the money for something newer, an intrepid or shen hao are relatively cheap. What you can find and the price it sells for is highly dependant on which country you're in.
If you buy from a private seller they'll usually have a lens with it. There are lots of cheap lenses around, and the biggest key to success is patience. Only buy a lens which has a shutter (unless you end up with a sinar system).
Decide what focal length you'd be looking to shoot here: http://www.toyoview.com/LensSelection/lensselect.html
>>
>>3028399
Stop being so lazy and poor you fucking cuck.
>>
>>3028378
It's a lightleak. Inspect your cameras lightseals and replace.
>>
>>3028377
>>3028400

Yeah landscapes will be the main use of it.

I live in Australia, but will be in japan for a couple weeks in a few months, so hopefully i can find something there.

>if you need lightweight pick up a wooden framed camera
Like a tachihara or similar?
>>
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dropping some photos from budapest

canonet ql17 giii

portra, fuji nps160 and fujicolor 200

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>>3028436

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>>3028439

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>>3028440

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I got a minolta xg-m as a gift. I found some expired (2001) Kodak Gold film and loaded it up. I obviously need practice, and even though I kinda like this picture... Is the color like this due to the degradation of the film? I'd love to get me some more of that.

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>>3028443

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>>3028446
>>3028444
could be the lighting. Older films didn't do so well in flourescent and gave it that green tinge.

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>>3028447

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>>3028448

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>>3028449

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>>3028450

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>>3028451

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>>3028452

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>>
>>3028402
You wish you were my asshole, pusboil.
>>
>>3028439
clean af, shame about that scan line or whatever it is

>>3028436
top half is nice, bottom half feels a bit disjointed
>>
>>3028464

That's a roller scratch from the lab.

Remember my lads, dip and dunk or go home.
>>
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>>3028468
fuckk yeah i'm complaining to them. not much i can do now though.
>>3028464
thanks

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>>3028476

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>>3028481

also bonus fp-100c bleached neg. overexposed though.

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>>3028482
>overexposed tho
Nah, for scanning FP-100c you have to underexpose the instant film itself to get a neg which isn't blown out.
If you want to be able to scan it and give the print to the model, take two shots. It's costly but it works.
>>
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Anybody know anything about collapsible Industar lenses? Mine has a misaligned aperture ring (pic related, that's it on f3.5) and I'm wondering if I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart to fix it.
>>
>>3028426
>I live in Australia
m8, honestly, LF cameras are such simple devices that they're effectively generic; if it isn't broken then it will be just fine for your purposes.
There are 3 broad categories: press cameras, field cameras, and view cameras. You want a field camera. The first working one you can find on gumtree will be so much cheaper than what will be in Japanese camera stores that you won't miss the particular detented locking knobs or whatever fuckery you wanted for a second.
And you're much more likely to pick up a complete outfit, with film holders and lenses and assorted detritus.
Japan isn't a cheap place to buy cameras because there is still a market for them.
>>
is the kodak ultramax film good?
>>
Is TheDarkRoom a good place to send film to be developed and scanned? I don't really care to try to learn to do it myself. I think it's like $11 a roll.
>>
>>3028468
>That's a roller scratch from the lab.
You fucking cucks.
The regularly, professionally maintained laboratory equipment with all roller transport isn't putting huge longitudinal scratches down your film.
What 40yo piece of amateur-grade and amateur-operated garbage that just got dragged through the desert and thrown around in a bag that drags your film through a static pair of brushes, past a static pressure plate, and then back again, might also be responsible for these marks?
>>
>>3028521
nah
>>
>>3028295
I'm messing around with a wood's glass filter and the abysmal but conveniently transmissive domiplan on 35mm, 400 speed films yield acceptable results with 5 stops of overexposure in sunny conditions. p. sure you could handhold 4x5 delta 3200. need to establish a method of correcting focus reliably other than stopping down and guesstimating focus a bit further out than vis. do you have any website to follow your progress or just FGTs?
>>
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Can we all agree that Fuji Natura is the best C41 film out there?

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>>
>>3028552
Not as long as Reala still exists in my freezer.
>>
I'm looking for cheap B&W film, prefereably 400 so I can push it to 1600.

Is there going to be much difference between Rollei 400s and Kentmere 400?
>>
>>3028549
>. p. sure you could handhold 4x5 delta 3200
Kurwo, my son. That emulsion doesn't exist. You can use d3200 in a 6x9 back though.
>>
Someone's offering an old Epson Perfection 2480 flatbed scanner for £20. Does 4800dpi and 48-bit colour. I currently just get lab scans at 600dpi and they look like complete shit with poor dynamic range and colour. Is this worth grabbing until I can afford a proper film scanner or will I not notice much of a difference?
>>
>>3028595
It'll do you just fine. Beware that it's optical resolution is 2400 dpi any higher is just upscaling.
Otherwise you'll get good results for web use. It's a reasonably decent price and you'll actually have control over your own scans instead of being cucked by a lab with a noritsu or fontier.
>>
>>3028378
>>3028403
That looks more like holes in the shutter curtain to be honest. Open the back (when you haven't got film in), take the lens off and check the curtain with a torch. If you can see light through it you're fugged.
>>
>>3028572
>prefereably 400 so I can push it to 1600.
kys nub
>>
>>3028572
>Rollei 400s and Kentmere 400

400s has IR capabilites. You can use an IR filter at 715nm to get IR effects.

Isn't Kentmere rebranded hp5? Should be best for pushing to 1600 of the two.
>>
>>3028549
HP5+ @ 3200 looks better than Delta 3200 in my opinion

https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=hp5%203200.
>>
>>3028598
Cheers lad. Will post results when I get it working.
>>
>>3028552
yeah but you will have a bunch of retards who will say it sucks because they get shit results from it and blame the film not themselves
>>
>>3028611
the trick is actually shooting it at night, it's completely horrible when shooting it any other time
>>
>>3028426
Is speed and portability important to you, OP? If so I'd recommend a Toyo monorail pretty hard. The G's and some of the other lightweight monorails they have are surprisingly quick to assemble/disassemble, and as mentioned earlier, they're excessively cheap. Any other field camera is going to cost more than a Toyo monorail. The only downside to a Toyo monorail is that you'll be disassembling it and then reassembling it, which can go pretty fast with some practice. I was given this advice by a guy who used to shoot in Hungary in the field, as well as fucking celebrities. Dude's accomplished but seemingly meek and unknown.
>>
>>3028549
I don't have a website. That's something I'm working on. Been some snapshit producing loser since I was 14, and now, more than 10 years later, I still have nowhere to show my work. Figured it's not worth it unless I'm producing something marvelous.This might be the time to do it. For once I'm doing something apparently untreaded in the modern day (UV LF).

I have a very vague memory of looking at the UV/IR photography forum, and seeing folks talking shit about wood's glass. unfortunately that was months ago and I can't recall what the reasoning was. A quick google (https://images.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.komar.org%2Ffaq%2Fcolorado-cataract-surgery-crystalens%2Fultra-violet-color-glow%2FWoods-Glass-Spectrum-Transmission.jpg&f=1) shows me why. It transmits a slightly problematic amount of visible light, and only peaks in the very high UV-A.

If you've been avoiding blowing cash on it, you should go on Alibaba and get some Chinese U330 or something similar for mad cheap prices. I was thinking of that a little while ago and then gave up for the 403 because I'm a lazy retard.

I looked around and can't find any transmission graphs or data for the Domiplan. Are you like me, feeling around in the dark with a lens that has been confirmed or suspected but not thoroughly tested? A cursory search shows that people know it transmits at least some UV. I can't find any major work with it, though. Can you post some examples?

Your stop information is very helpful! This is something I really wanted to know going in, so I could avoid wasting film, regardless of how cheap X-ray is. It does occur to me, though, that since we are using different lenses, I may require more or less overexposure. Good to have a ballpark anyways.

Film sensitivity is something I hadn't really thought of yet. I suppose I'll probably start with more sensitive stuff then. When I get at it with the Nikon FE2, I'll use some Delta 3200. I don't think it comes in 4x5.
>>
>>3028609
That's because you're a filthy cuck who doesn't know how to process Delta.
>>
>>3028638
As for focus, I'm thinking that there's no way to accurately predict it without years of education about optics/glass. There are too many metrics that we don't know about the glass, and for older lenses like we are using, there may be significant individual variation across samples. I'd suggest empirical tests, narrowing down appropriate focus compensation and then keeping a card on hand. Can't see a more expedient path to reliable focus compensation.
>>
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can someone provide estimation of this old gear, I can provide close-ups

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>>
>>3028665
Buying or selling? The Technika's go for over 1000$+ a piece depending on which model. Those other cameras look like plate field cameras. Not sure how much you could get for those.
>>
>>3028665
selling
>>
>>3028665
Check ebay. The camera on the left is probably worth most and is a Linhof Technika III. The lens on it (8/120mm super angulon) around 200.

The other cameras are probably not really worth much but the lenses might be, I just can't see what they are.
>>
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>>3028671
>>3028675

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>>
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>>3028675

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>>
Gonna be in Japan most of April. Contemplating on if I should only bring film cameras and a GR there, and leave my Fuji mirrorless kit at home (or sell it for spending money).

Anyone in Tokyo, what's the regular price for e6 and c41 dev there, and where do you get yours done?
>>
>>3028672
Oh, in that case, they're all fucking worth nothing. Hit me up dawg ;)
>>
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>>3028675
also have this lens as a spare

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>>
When people say they're pushing film to a higher ISO, what exactly does that mean? Sorry for the dumb question, I've never shot film
>>
>>3026946
depends what ur into my man
>>
>>3028701
develop the film for longer time than needed so you get a brighter image.
>>
>>3028716
um, not quite.
"pushing" film is when you underexpose and overdevelop.
"pulling" is the opposite
>>
I bought some Kodak proimage 200 that was on sale where i get NY shit developed. How is it?
>>
>>3028743
Where in NY do you get your stuff developed?
>>
>>3028748
My*
>>
>>3027131
I like foma a lot

I'm split between buying a 30m roll of retro pan 320 or the 400 action.

Do I get the meme hipster stuff that has something cool going for it, or do I get the reasonable one?
>>
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Bad roll, metering, developer, all of the above? was just a test shot but the rest of the roll has some funny bubbling on the lighter parts, Film was XP2 Super

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>>
>>3028769
what'd you mean developer, did you develop this yourself?
>>
>>3028761
that's like choosing between herpes and syphilis.
>>3028591
my bad, confused it with the other delta sheet films.
>>3028609
yeah but we're talking base box speed for every little advantage to handhold uv shots with reasonable speeds and apertures.
>>3028638
yeah it's a tanning bed sheet, i've been planning on getting a bunch of filters off alibaba and mounting them in frames from throwaway uv filters, just making sure this stuff is viable now. I only have the domiplan and a supposedly transmissive jupiter-12. film is lenient, I'm still at the "get usable images" stage, winter means overcast cloudy bullshit with no natural uv.

You should really use your 35mm camera to bracket test exposures on one roll without wasting lots of expensive lf sheets, checking out various lightsources, conditions, yadda.
>>
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>>3028769
>>3028782
Yeah the bubbling looks like dev problems...
>>
>>3028761
A friend of mine bought 30m of the retro pan and I can't say I'm a fan of it. Maybe it's cool with the right subject, but I wouldn't use it for general purpose.
>>
>>3028794
The x-ray brings my cost down to, per shot, about the same as MF. Dev wise, I develop myself on a flat-rate of 8$ a month, so I'm pretty set there.

For convenience, I'm definitely going to do as you describe, though. I'm stuck with the same shit. I'm at 45 degrees latitude.
>>
>>3028782
Afraid not, photography shop up the road from me. It's difficult finding someone who develops film over here that doesn't charge the earth.
>>
>>3028801
For example here's a quick and dirty unedited scan comparison of Delta400 in stand Rodinal to see how it responds. Domiplan at f/16, UV through wood's glass +5 EV. Still underexposed in shadows but rodinal and delta400 prolly don't utilise full film speed. Tmax100 responded well to +5EV, better than delta.

Experimenting with an old strong flash unit with the UV shielding removed, at 70cm f/11 on an industar-50 delta400 gets good density, but that's extreme impractical bullshit. Tests, tests, tests. We'll get there anon.
>>
>>3028823
>those apartment blocks

Do you live in the ex CCP or Warsaw Pact bloque?

This is what I wanted to see. It's pretty interesting. Sky's blown out, as expected. I want to give it a go on some flowers. My impression is that the only things that will be worth taking pictures of with UV-A are organic. Haven't done much reading on it, though.
>>
How shitty are Kodak P&S compared to other cheap P&S? obviously don't gonna compare them with a contax but i want to know if they're marginally worse than a canon or pentax in these range
>>
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>>3028511
I sent a roll to check them out, they're okay, but you need to pay for the medium scans, which makes it more like $15/roll. at those prices I'd rather just do b/w myself and do color only on digital.

pic related, kentmere 100 pushed 2, medium thedarkroom scan in the resolution they give.

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>>
>>3028688
I'm also curious about this

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>>
>>3028846

are the regular scans really bad? Not who you responded to but I just paid to have a roll sent to them and did the basic ones
>>
>>3027826
>Vivitar

pls no
>>
>>3028368
But those cameras are going to suck. I don't know onengood point and shoot that uses AAs. Also, the typical cr123 and cr2s aren't expensive. They cost less than a roll of Portra.

>>3028376
I've seen the typical cr123 and cr2s in lots of places. Sure they aren't AS common as AAs, but they aren't rare. Batteries also last forever. My point and shoots that use cr123s last 30-40 rolls.

I can't think of one good point and shoot that uses AAs...

>>3028688
Kitamura and Yodobashi are pretty comparable price wise. I've used both but typically use Kitamura because it's more convenient for me. C41 is about 650¥, e6 is ¥800 unmounted. 35mm C41 is typically 1 hour or less. 120 and all e6 takes about a week.
>>
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>>3028916
All of these except the Konica (literally the worst one) use AA's. They are very good point and shoots.

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>>3028916
between a pentax zoom 90WR and a Vivitar 300z which one is the better choice?
>>
>>3028521

This is an extremely well-known issue, you fucking idiot, and I've had it happen in the exactly same place on different rolls run through different cameras. I am willing to put money on the fact that you don't even know the difference between dip and dunk and roller development.
>>
>>3028916
As for the AA argument, it's not about quality, there are people here asking about cheap point and shoots and some times it's handy to have a full auto disposable p&s (quality aside) so for those purposes it should be known to avoid cameras that batteries are $10+ a peice. Just saying, your looking at this from the wrong point of view. Also there are a few point and shoots, Ricoh af77s as one, that use AA's and are decent for what you're paying.
>>
>>3028935
So pls tell why it's not on every shot?
I just think it's hilarious how people's first assumption is that the lab has fucked their film, when they're little babby nubs who barely understand how a camera works.
>my car crashed cos the traction control didn't work
Meighty8, I've had dirty slides with uneven dev back from a dip and dunk lab before. There's no free lunch, every system needs to be well maintained and operated by someone who knows what they're doing.
>>
>>3028900
not that they're bad, they're just very low resolution. the medium scans are ~6mpix, which is about good for normal 35mm imo.

>>3028925
enjoying my L35AF, except the vignetting is pretty strong in low/moderate light.
>>
>>3028769
>>3028796
You are aware that XP2 is a C41 process film, right?
>>
>>3028979
i hate xp2 for this reason. when you dont have the colour dev shit at home its fucking infuriating. got some a few years back in a box of recently expired film
>>
>>3028925
I've always thought the Olympus was cr123? Cool that the l35af uses AAs. Didn't know that.

>>3028933
Never heard of either.

>>3028959
I see your point, but again we're talking about a once a year $10 purchase. If thats an issue film photography in general isn't a good idea, where $10 will get you maybe 2 rolls shot and deved.

>>3028979
Fuck I forgot xp2 is c41. I have a roll I shot years ago laying around. Going to drop it off at the local 1 hour place for the lulz.
>>
>>3028973
if I were to get it developed and scanned at a place would it be better quality than thedarkroom shit?
>>
New Thread >>3029063
>>
>>3029056
>I've always thought the Olympus was cr123?
The Olympii can take both.
>>
>>3029031
Nah you fucking monogoloid.

It's perfectly acceptable to cross process C-41 in B/W, you just have to not be completely retarded.
>>
>>3028979
Yes, and? That doesn't rule out dev problems either at home or a photolab.
Thread posts: 321
Thread images: 96


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