What's a good 35mm SLR?

Olympus OM-2N. The light meter along with the Auto function make it one of the most foolproof 35mm SLRs.
Or you could go for a Canon/Nikon AF film SLR and keep the lenses if you ever want to go digital.

Also I think this is a question more appropriate for the gear thread, it doesn't merit its own thread.

>>3005457
Literally any with a meter and decent build. Nikon/Canon/Lolympus/Pentax/Minolta, there isn't much variation between them besides build quality and a function here and there.

>>3005457
As long as you don't spend over 50$ on your first SLR then I think you're good.

>>3005457
Body doesn't really matter apart from key functions like good shutter, light meter and self-timer. More important is the choice of lens mount.

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Nikon F6

>>3005919
zenit ttl then

Pentax MX

I advise to get a Braun SR2000

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>>3006531
>Chinese clone of an already cheap camera that's been whored out to numerous companies

>>3005919
Why self timer

Minolta StSi

Kodak disposable very good

>>3005941
It's expensive so it must be good

Canon ae-1 program. Simple, cheap, durable, good focus, fun camera.

I really like my Nikon FG. Has a nice rangefinder viewscreen that is quite large, a comfy light detection system, and is nice and compact. It can also be snagged for very cheap I imagine, since it's a budget SLR.
It's not a "pro" SLR though if such a thing matters to you.

What about Om-1?

Get one of the last Canon film SLRs that were made. By that point they were pretty much perfect and you can use new Canon lenses on them.

>>3005457
rollei sl35

>>3006662
>cheap
? in what fucking universe?

>>3006802
expensive
get an x700

>>3006849
>expensive
My fault, meant to say om-10

>>3008161
i have an OM10 and i definitely think it was a good entry level 35mm. I want to get a semi-digital Nikon series 35mm now though for the higher range in shutter & ISO, plus eventually when i hopefully will fun I do intend to get a Nikon digital.

>>3006849
I was about to say "You can find AE-1s for stupid cheap on Shopgoodwill all day", but holy shit they're going for close to $100 now. I feel like an idiot for selling one I had years ago for $50.

>>3008324

What exactly is a "semi-digital" camera?

>>3008339
Not him but I guess he means cameras that don't take photos or operate at all without batteries but takes film

Just started learning on a canon ae1 really easy to use pretty foolproof. Any black and white film you all would suggest ? Thanks!

>>3009671
Ilford 100 FP4 and Illford 400 HP5 fampai!

Happy shooting ^_^

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Nikon N90s/F90x.
Can be had on ebay with decent lens, rather cheap: typically under $100 for lens and camera. More if you want the vertical grip and the programmable backside.
Rock solid and reliable, though a little heavy(you'll get used to it).

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>>3006849
>expensive
Got one for 40 euros in good state

>>3006849
i second the x700

>>3006799
i had an FG and i broke it under a week

>>3005457
anything's good as long as you know how to use it

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>>3005457
any cosina.

>>3011887
>tfw the dumb adapter for e mount is more expensive than the camera + lens

There's way way many 35mm SLRs out there, too many to namecheck them each. You can come across them and look them up on the Internet yourself. To select a good 35mm SLR for you, pay attention to these properties:

>style of operation
There are fully-mechanical SLRs, ones where the shutter is electronically controlled, and ones that're fully automated. The first will do needle-matching metering at most, while others will have some form of through-the-lens autoexposure. Some regard electronics as unreliable (because of the battery requirement), though mechanical shutters tend to go out of whack with time as well.

>batteries
Some SLRs, notoriously the OM-1, require a mercury cell battery, or an electronic adapter hack for regular batteries. The former are no longer available, and the latter is bloody difficult to do without specialist knowledge. Most people end up shooting the OM-1 like a mechanical, meterless camera, or using the wrong battery and dealing with a -3..+2 EV shift depending on conditions.

(continued. do make a copypasta of this stuff, shit's important and i'm only gonna type this one time.)

>>3011927
>viewfinder
Many entry-level SLRs have silly, small, cheap prisms. This means they'll get like 80-90% coverage, whereas modern DSLR users are accustomed to at least 95%. Zenits are even worse. Today there's no reason to use a SLR that's got bad coverage: an OM-2 with a very bright 97% finder can be had for like 50 eurobucks with a 50mm f/1.8 lens.

>focusing
Manual focus is generally what people like to use with film SLRs. But there are also autofocusing ones, which work mostly like a very early DSLR; e.g. the Nikon F100 has five focusing points, and the F4 has just one. Manual focus lenses on a manual-focusing body are much nicer to use than MF lenses on an AF body because there'll be a split-prism and microprism collar on the focusing screen, allowing exact focusing right down to f/2 or thereabouts.

>weight, other ergonomic factors
Don't get a Nikon F5 if you're unwilling to carry around a kilogram of weight that you'd not have with one of those plastic-fantastic eighties Canons. Do look for a diopter adjustment knob -- even for glasses-wearers, being able to finetune the finder is very useful, esp. for dealing with eye strain (that thing that feels like a headache in your eyeballs).

>>3011931
>metering
Where available, fancy SLRs have some form of center-weighted TTL metering. Generally the weight of the center area goes up as age of camera goes down; often this comes from the center area becoming smaller, to the point where the Nikon F3 has more of a "fat spot". Cheap, or mildly retrograde SLRs, will use a frame-averaging TTL meter, which is very easily confused by a bright sky. In any case for auto-metering cameras it's better to get one that can either lock exposure and recompose (e.g. F3, any DSLR-style body), or has an EC knob in easy one-handed reach (which the F3 doesn't have, because it's fiddly as fuck and also has no click stops). This doesn't matter for manual mode where EC is done by adjusting the settings anyway.

Similarly some old cameras can only be set to a relatively low maximum ISO, 1600 isn't uncommon. This affects the way the EC knob works as well, for example the OM-2 will only allow positive EC values when set to ISO 1600.

>film transport
Contrary to what hipsters will tell you, it's fine to have a camera with a motor drive. Those will eat batteries at frustrating rates (like, 10-15 rolls to a change) so you'll want some Eneloops to go with it, which can double the price of a camera body. And they're usually noisy; high-pitched whirring like you'd expect from early 80s tech is common. This is much less pleasant at a social gathering than an old-school clack-clack.

Most cameras with a built-in motor transport (F100, N2020 [aka F-501], etc.) will also load film automatically, whereas manually-wound cameras will never do that. It's possible to fuck up loading 35mm film with both "didn't take any pictures" and "all pictures ruined due to light leak" results. Motor transport will often also rewind the film for the user, which is nice.

(with that, I think I'm done.)

I have a practica super tl1000
GDR made, so it should be dirt cheap but I nonetheless love the thing

I started out with a Minolta 7000 AF, still have it

I eventually went onto an OM-10 that was given to me. The OM-10 was fucking great, Id recommend it for starting out.
I had mine stolen along with the rest of my gear and camera bag, still miss it

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look for deals, buy when find good deal

I've got myself a Olympus OM-20 (or OMG in the US) for 20 bucks and I'm quite happy with it. Lenses aren't that expensive and the camera is fun to use. If you can get a OM camera for cheap, go and get it.

Minolta X-700

>>3011927
just wanted to point out that using the wrong voltage, generally 1.5v instead of 1.35v doesnt make much difference, from my experience its usually around 0.5EV or less

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I have a canon eos 600. Picked it up for €12. Only problem is the auto focus tends to be quite slow in low light.

>>3012563
I've got the 650, really great camera for £8. The autofocus isn't terrible but you need to focus on something reasonably contrasty.

The viewfinder is one of the biggest and brightest I've ever seen though.

>>3011927
>>3011931
>>3011935
5 star posts :)

>>3005457

Nikon F-3
Nikon FE2
Nikon FA
Olympus OM-2
Canon AE-1 Program
Pentax K1000
.
.
.

If it has a meter... Actually if it has a shutter that works and doesn't leak light you're fine, you don't even need a working meter.

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>>3008327
>>3006849

>cheap
>? in what fucking universe?

Just bought this A-E1 Program in Japan, mint condition, with working motor-drive, and flawless 35-70 F4 lens for about $60 USD.

They can be found cheap, just not on eBay.

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