/film/

>>3000034
what's your other outlet? thinking of leaving this shithole too

>accidentally bought 5x7 35mm storage sheets
who the fuck thought these were a good idea?

>>3000047
That's a real classic cucking right there.
>>3000038
Real life brah. Edit, print, frame, hang.

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How do you store your developed film? I have been keeping mine in the envelopes that the film and prints come in after being developed but it's starting to become a big pile for not much film.

>>3000047
While looking for options I saw someone recommending these but are they just shit?

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>>3000063
Get negative archival files with binder holes + a binder, and then mark each page of negatives with a date and subject. Makes finding them much easier.

Alternatively throw them in a shoebox and never look at them again

>>3000050
>real life
i don't want to feel this feel desu

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I'd love to find a new outlet for photo. Most websites are pixelpeeping digifags. The few film sights are mostly old men gear fagging about Leica glass while shooting photos of their grandkids. The film subreddit has hardly any discussion and 80% snapshit.

I'm just a lost, lonely boy.

Been shooting so much more lately. Stopped staring into my phone while out and about. Started always havong my p&s accessible and I'm seeing and taking so many more photos. Averaging 24-48 shots a week.

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>>3000090
Find an IRL community. I'm part of a community darkroom and it's very pleasant, really eclectic mix of people from highschool kids to 80 year olds. Everyone shares a common interest. We get together once a month and share our favorite prints from the past month and give each other advice and just generally enjoy the hobby, it's a good time and I've learned a lot. You'll also probably find that the old timer guys that have been in the game for decades are very eager to pass on their wealth of knowledge (and sometimes gear) to you.

Would recommend

>>3000034
>posting unedited lab scans

im glad youre kill for good, dslr scan cuck, youre the true cancer.

stay go forever, faggot.

>>3000103
I think their problem was with unedited and not the lab scan part

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What are the adjustments I should be making to my black and white photos? So far I have only really touched the brightness, contrast, and curves. Is that enough for b&w? Sorry for only asking questions and not contributing.

Sidenote since apparently FGT has gone to shit. I'm relatively new to film and also to /p/ so what can I do to properly contribute to these threads?

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>>3000107
This photos is severely underexposed, you can tell since the shadows are totally black with no detail. So work on that when shooting / developing.

Other than what you've already mentioned, I like to make my blacks black and my white's white. An unsharp mask doesn't hurt if your scan is sufficiently detailed. Other than those minimal adjustments I'd leave it as is, heavily editing film scans is a bit haram in my books. You should be establishing what you want the image to look like by how you shoot and develop it, after that it's said and done.

Also - asking questions _is_ contribution.

>>3000107
My Darktable recipe is usually something like: orientation, exposure, black point, white point, crop and rotate, add masked tone curves etc. until artistically satisfied.

Is caffenol a ''serious'' way of processing film, or is it just a gimmick?. I'm trying to see if I can shoot film for the lowest budget and get decent results.

>>3000232
rodinal is cheaper than caffenol unless you get your instant coffee in huge coffeeshop bulk bags. it leaves a brown stain/hue on the entire negative. it's a slow acting medium grain developer, you need to weigh out and mix the ingredients each time. it works, but is inconvenient compared to other, cheaper solutions.

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sorry, forgot to add the photo.
ilford pan 400 + caffenol, scanned with a rock and some sticks

>>3000232
It makes bad results, and smells like death and pestilence had a baby.

>>3000063
>While looking for options I saw someone recommending these but are they just shit?
i mean, they're printfile, so quality wise they're fine. just shit because they only hold 35 frames and all my rolls are 36-40 frames.

>>3000232
You can develop prints with it too, and it acts like a selenium toner. If I understood the process properly (lol...) you can use anything with tanins in it, including tea, coffee, and red wine.
Here's a cool project of photos taken in coffee shops and then developed using coffee from there: https://petapixel.com/2015/08/06/photos-of-amsterdam-coffeehouses-developed-with-the-coffee-they-sell/

That said there are plenty of legitimately cheap developers out there. 5 litres of ID-11 goes for £15 on ebay, I'd imagine D76 is pretty similar in the US since they're almost identical formulae. Rodinal or any Eastern Euro stuff is probably pretty legit for that too.

>>3000232
just get some d76, it's cheap (like $12/gallon on amazon)

>>3000294
any cheap fixer you would reccomend? I'm looking at rapidfixer but its about 25€ for 1 litre.

>>3000298
i use standard kodak fixer. like $15/gallon on amazon as well.

i store my chems in wine bottles (and use a vacu-vin)

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Got my first roll of slide film back the other day. Some turned out rather dark but there are a few I really like.

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>>3000332

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>>3000334

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Anyone tried 6x17 format?

File: dipsmall.jpg (345KB, 1000x500px) Image search: [Google]

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My first e6 development. Ektachrome 100x expired late 90's.

>>3000034

th-thanks, I was enjoying them ;_;

>>3000332
how are you scanning this?

>>3000354
sick colors. Liking it a lot.

>>3000354
How'd you expose these? I have a roll of Ektachrome 100 Plus which expired in 2004 and I've been too afraid to shoot it due to how expensive E-6 processing is here

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bumping the thread with some generic film snapshit

enjoy, fuckos

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>>3000439
Down a stop to 50, no idea it's storage history though. If yours has been refrigerated since before expiration, its probably fine. e-6 is surprisingly resilient.

That being said part of the fun of expired film is the unpredictable results. Here is some Kodak 5279 expired in 00', hand remjet removal.

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>>3000487
I sort of want to buy ecn-2 chemistry ants its not crazy expensive but the minimum units sold make between 60 and 100 liters and i just can't justify it.

>>3000497
/p/ photo lab when

>>3000354
this shit looks great

>>3000500
seriously though after i run through my current chemicals and film i may just buy some short ends and try to split the chemistry with a few people in the area.
>
if you want to learn more
>
http://motion.kodak.com/KodakGCG/uploadedFiles/Motion/Products/Product_Information/Kodak-Motion-Picture-Products-Price-Catalog-US-Prices_May_2016_V5.pdf
>
page 30 is where the chemicals are listed
>
>
>
>
This document contains processing information
(although it is for mechanical processing)
>
http://motion.kodak.com/KodakGCG/uploadedfiles/motion/h2407.pdf

>>3000497
What area are you in? I have the same issue. I've got like 900ft of 500t I want to shoot

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>>3000509
>>3000367
Thanks guys

This is Astia pushed two stops

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>>3000518
Nice shot, reminds me a bit of the movie Stalker. Where did you shoot that?

>>3000517
How do you load that 500t into normal 35mm cassettes? Do you break it down into 100ft rolls and then use a bulk roller?

>>3000250
shit, as usual. pole.

>>3000518
oooof where do you live?

What happens if you order film to ship to, say, Australia from literally any other country? It'll go through xrays and get fucked up right?

>>3000531
I order film from BH photo all the time without a hitch m8

>>3000531
It'll be fine, don't worry. Not every parcel is X-Ray'd since that'd be impossible, plus even if it is x-ray'd there's only a small chance it'll be fucked up. It'll probably be marked as photo-sensitive or something so it won't be x-rayd.

X rays are only really a probably with 800 speed film or higher

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>>3000518
>>3000520
I'm a huge fan of Tarkovsky's work, but I'm from nowhere near the soviet union. This was shot in Becket, MA in the usa. It was like a burned out lake- but wet with mud of all diferent densities. Weird to walk on. Here's another shot from there.

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>>3000524
I either use the cheap 1.25 re usable ones or make my own with old empty carts and gaff tape. I just put it in a changing bag or go in a dark room with a few empty's at a time, and use the manual winder on my pentax to wind it into the cartridge till it fills up, turning the 400ft roll inside the bag with my other hand.

>>3000540
post apocalyptic
Nice

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Anyone shoot slide in an XA or XA2 before? Wondering how the meter performs for more critical film. Have some Provia and Velvia rolls I was planning to use. Worst case Ontario that nobody on /p/ has tried, I'll guinea pig and report back.

Pic unreleated

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>>3000357 dslr method

>>3000553
>and use the manual winder on my pentax to wind it into the cartridge till it fills up
the rewind crank? no way. haha. how do you know when to stop?

>>3000579
I've shot some Agfa Precisa (i.e. Provia) with my XA, looked totally fine.

>>3000291
>>3000294
>>3000298
I bought about 50 cans of vintage d76 in powdered form several years ago at a swap meet for like $5 USD and they are perfectly good to this day. But I still use ilfosol because I am so painfully lazy I can't be bothered to mix up the powder

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>>3000601
Alrighty, here we go! Going to rate it at 80 to give it a bit more leeway.

>>3000517
NJ

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>>3000524

Anyone experimented with stand developing using HC-110? I think I'm going to try as I have some rolls of Delta 3200 I need to dev, and the examples I've seen of it developed in dil B look like shit.

Also anyone experimented with very hot temps using HC-110? I just saw some examples of pushed Tri-x in really hot d76 and it's got the perfect super gritty Daido look with pleasant, grain, and I'd like to experiment with that. Would prefer to keep using HC-110 for the easy oneshotting though.

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Been shooting with my OM-2n for a while now and I was thinking of taking a stab at AF SLRs (not that I'd be using their AF capabilities all that much or at all)

Been checking out Canon/Nikon cameras looking to get a good bargain. Any models (EOS xxx or Fxx) which would be worth it in terms of lens availability, ISO control (overriding DX coding) and price?

So do you guys get prints AND scan? Do y'all think it's worth it to get prints?

>>3000531
Australia customs x-rays everything I'm pretty sure. How else would they check my laser pointer

>>3000726
I think that not getting prints almost defeats the purpose of shooting film. If all your results are digital, then why bother shooting film?

>>3000751
I guess that depends on what process the lab uses. Most of the plebs who pay for labs here probably don't have RA-4.

>>3000582
When the tension is enough that more film won't load in, I pull a couple inches out so it spins freely. Gives me enough to have 36 exposures roughly, after loading the film. And it's free

>>3000688
I'm from CT, if we can get enough people together I might be interest in doing a bulk order

>>3000034

Quality post for a quality thread.

Geeat job not being a massive hypocrite, OP.

how many times can I use diluted developer for positives (photo paper)?

>>3000809
rtfm

I accidentally used the same dispenser for fixer (first) and developer (second) (it wasn't even washed with water). did I just fuck up 1liter of developer or is it ok?

I'm thinking of getting a MF camera, purely to use with B&W film so I can develop at home, and perhaps use it only for portraiture.

Any recommendations sub £300 ?

>>3000830
By dispenser do you mean funnel? If so, no worries -- the amounts are far too small to matter much.

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>>3000718
What's wrong with staying Olympus stronk?
>shiggy
tbqh tho, the OM2n is basically a perfect camera, you will gain nothing except access to modern lenses by going AF, and you will lose the Oly's long exposure metering.

>>3000718
Nikon f100 is not bad

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Why do i get those strange artifacts on my scans, any ideas? I use a glassplate I put onto the backlit film and photograph it with my digital camera. Was the film not flat enough?

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>>3000911
Here's another one, you can even spot the pixels of the ipad I used to illuminate the negatives. Gotta improve my scanning skills...

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>>3000911
>>3000912

Newton rings, they're what happens when the film touches a glass surface. You can either shim it out, or get special glass. Try building a neg holder out of something like card, or balsa wood. Something that will hold the film completely flat without making contact with the frame. Failing that a neg carrier from an enlarger will work perfectly, but you'll have to buy it :^)

>>3000865
bronica, rb67, yashica mat

>>3000913
thanks a lot, will try to put something in between the film and glass

>>3000911
skip the glass. i made a 35mm mask from foam board and use that to hold my film flat while i shoot it.

>>3000912
>you can even spot the pixels of the ipad I used to illuminate the negatives.
gotta diffuse the light from the ipad with something (like a piece of plastic bag)

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>>3000726
No, because at absolute best 30% of the roll will be keepers. Spending the extra money on prints when most of them aren't even good pictures is a waste of money.

>>3000865

If you want to shoot square on an SLR, Bronica SQ-A bruh.

Someone recently tipped me off to a developing service that is $5/roll dev + 16base scan quality for both c41 and e6 here in 日本. Motherfucking hypppeeeee.

>>3000919
that picture is awesome :D

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>>3000911
Scanned my first time with a shatbed scanner to day and boy does that take long. Despite the dslr thing being tedious to set up, once you've got it it's way faster than with an actual scanner.

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What's everyone deving? Hp5+ d76 1+1. Got a few colour rolls too.

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>>3000927
currently shooting some 127 ansco all weather pan (exp 1964) but havent developed any yet.

>>3000912
>>3000911
Move the ipad further away, do not sandwich the negs in glass.

>>3000927
>>3000927
Trying to develop some rolls for the first time in years.
Currently practicing loading the film on the reel with some practice film and I keep Fucking up. Reeeeee

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Instant camera 10 years ago out a car window

>>3000931
What 127 camera you have?

>>3000950
Make sure everything is very dry and go slow, make sure your feeding the film with your fingers into the accepting end of the plastic reel. (Touching the film lightly before developing won't cause blemishes or finger prints btw)

>>3000950
Also side note I completely lost my shit after Fucking up a roll using plastic reels so I switch to metal and never looked back they're real nice to use once you get it down.

>>3000955
>What 127 camera you have?
brownie starflex

>>3000959
I'm using metal reels
I should've gotten the plastic ones lol.>>3000959

>>3000878
Shiggy diggy
Yes it pretty much is, I was lucky that it was the first I ever picked up. I guess I'm just on an ebay rush, seeing F55 bodies go for 15-20 gbp and thinking "why not?"

Thanks for taking the time to reply though mang

>>3000978
Oh m8 you got this. Again keep them dry and remember when you push the film into the holder to have the film end cut completely flat (cut off the tab on the film straight). Push the film slightly bent into the holder and use your other hands finger to slide it into the metal clip holder. Make sure when you grab the reel that when you spin it your finger slides over the ends of the metal spooling, they shouldn't hit the ends your fingers should fall off and continue spoiling, that's just to check your spinning the reel the proper way to take up the film. Then keep the film bent slightly with one hand and start spinning the spool with your other hand, I have roughly 1-2 inches of film between the hand holding the film and the actual spool take up. Once the films taken up say 3-4 frames you can check that it's properly on by using the hand holding the film to push the film lightly back into the reel and if you can feel the film expand in the reel and move freely it's not stuck or overlapping. There's a few good YouTube videos that go over this well too. My go to pointers are cut film straight, check fingers fall over the end, and keep the film slightly bent while spooling with other hand. I swear it's easy once you get it.

>>3000955
>Touching the film lightly before developing won't cause blemishes or finger prints btw
It absolutely does if you touch the emulsion side.
>that's the inside, FYI
It depends on how greasy your sickening body is, of course, but the oils in your fingerprints will slightly inhibit the activity of the developer and irreversibly ruin that frame. Touching the outside/shiny side isn't nearly as much of an issue, as the fingerprint itself will likely be rinsed off in the washing process.
Any touching after it's dry though will leave a print, which will show up more or less in your scans, depending on the film/shot.

>>3000985
No worries.
If you legit want to though, I'd suggest going Canon, because you'll have more lense compatibility, and simply more secondhand lenses to choose from, as it's the most popular brand.
Almost all of the EOS cameras are fully featured; every exposure mode, built in flashes, AE lock, multiple exposures, ISO overrride.
The biggest downsides are that you'll only get 36 exposures, and unless you get a matching battery grip they only use lithiums.
I recommend the 300V, as it is feather light and dirt cheap, or a 30V if you want to spend a little more and get the best possible.

I just bought a two pack of Fujifilm disposable cameras just for fun. Anybody ever shoot with these and have any photos that they can share here?

>>3000991
Thank you so much for all this info, I will definitely be looking into it then, seeing as the bodies are very affordable from just a simple search. Glass hunting can come after that but glass can be kept for future use anyway.
I'll try and hunt a 30V down.
Kudos!

>>3000954

very nice shot

>>3000988
Thanks man.
I took a film class about 5 years ago and I was able to do it okay with enough practice.

I think part of the problem is that the reels I got off eBay are thin and not as good as the ones I had in my class

>>3000997
https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-eos-elan-7e-35mm-camera-body.html

Also called the Elan 7, 7e, 30, 30v, 33, 33v, 7n.
>yes seriously, the same camera has about 800 names for all the different markets it was sold in
Eye control is a meme, you don't need it, but it does work.
The biggest meaningful difference is that the very last models have crackle black finish on them, and they use the same TTL flash system as the digi's, so they're fully compatible with current flashes.

>>3000911
>>3000912
>>3000916
>>3000948
Holy fucking shit. Spend 10 fucking dollars and get a real film holder.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/835148-REG/Pacific_Image_649899001592_35mm_Film_Strip_Holder.html

>>3000927
I do mostly Rodinal because the X-ray film I use doesn't dev well with d76. The communal dark room I use is too amateur to purchase pyrocat or other fancy devs.

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>>3001074
pic related

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>>3001074
>X-ray film.
U wot?
How does it look.
Is it used to look underneath woman's clothing?

>>3001070
why?

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>>3001076
and here's one mega underexposed

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File: main sp-445 review.jpg (98KB, 1024x729px) Image search: [Google]

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Do any of you develop 4x5 at home?
I want to start developing some at home and will probably use the sp-445 since it looks easy to use and compact

How do you guys do yours?

>>3001085
Holy shit, you have one? How is it? I wish I could do dev at home. Don't have enough space/a room that could be easily cordoned off light-wise.

What I'd suggest is get a jobo reel tank, you can do 6 at a time, and pick up a used colour development rotor thing to rotate it during dev.

>>3001088
Lol I don't have one.....yet
But it's the one I'm leaning towards.

>>3001085
The SP445 is really easy to use since it's just like a Paterson tank in terms of how you agitate and develop, however you can only do 4 sheets at a time. If you're willing to learn, rotary processing like >>3001088 mentioned is a bit more efficient

>>3001085
Taco method. It works and the money I could spend on yet another tank/processor I can spend on film.

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Picked up for $700aud with a shitty lens. Did I do good?

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>>3001001
Thank you. Foumd it in an old album.

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>>3001138

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>>3000034
I bought a refurbished Canonet G-III for 15000 yen in Japan. None in Australia. Did I fuck up?

>>3001172
You could have had it for the same price on eBay quite easily. So you didn't fuck up, but you didn't win either

>>3000876
measuring cylinder / burette

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>>3001125
>worst leica
>objectively trash lense
$700
Or pic related
>objectively best canon body
>basic but excellent lense a stop and a half faster than that memedustar
>free motor winder to discard in the manner of your choosing
>40 brand new rolls of the finest colour film available today shipped from the Fatherland to Australia
$680

Holy fuck, sucks to be you.

>>3001125
>Industar-61
bro that's not a shitty lens.

>>3001181
>somewhere in the distance, a man with a 3-figure bank balance chuckles dismissively

>>3001125
That lens is worth maybe $50 if it's been CLA'd by Oleg (in Russia!) within the last decade. Otherwise, $8.

So you paid $650 for a Leica that looks like a Fed-3 (i.e. a box that a bird shit on, leaving a shutter release shaped bump on top), and a lens that's basically a big heavy body cap.

I wouldn't've done what you did, given that a good M3 + hotshoe meter can cost about as much. That's not to mention how Leica is a big rip-off given what it is.

Soo at this point this might be a bit pointless to ask but is it dangerous to develop stuff in my kitchen sink (where I also wash my dishes) and to not wear any gloves while doing so or nah?

>>3001199
No, not really. I mean you obviously shouldn't consume developer/fixer/stop bath/whatever, but as long as you run some water in the sink after you'll be fine. Your hands shouldn't be touching the chemicals anyway, but as far as I know they're not bad for your skin.

You shouldn't be disposing your chemicals down the sink if that's what you're doing. They need to be disposed of properly, you local dump will have facilities for disposing of dangerous chemicals

>>3001180
i get what you mean but it's a whole other thing
new f1 is my favourite slr body ever but you need to understand that any m mount system will command a high price for ever
i shoot m mount in the streets and slr for studio/planned shoots, the two really aren't that compatible
also $600 really isn't a whole lot of money
>>3001199
if it's bw you should be fine, the only thing you shouldnt put down the drain is fixer cause it contains silver that can fuck with the sewage system cause it kills bacteria that helps to break down poop. the fixer wont damage pipes or anything, it might just affect the sewage faculties at a very small level. flush that shit down the drains, you good

>>3001199
oh and dont get anything on your skin, undilluted stop is really acidic and dev can make your skin all peeley

>>3001199
dude dont be a pussy.

>You shouldn't be disposing your chemicals down the sink if that's what you're doing. They need to be disposed of properly, you local dump will have facilities for disposing of dangerous chemicals
dont listen to this guy, just pour it down the drain.

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>>3001199
As long as nobody eats off the dishes after you've washed them, it's no problem.
See pic related, the symbols where the earth is transformed into a hellscape where life cannot be sustained and the man whose heart has exploded in his chest are the real no-nos; you should find both of them on most developers.

>>3001059
I don't think I'd be able to find it under the elan name, being a yuropoor but I will surely keep an eye out for all the other names on that list.

You've been a massive help, I can't thank you enough for all of this.

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>>3001199
Dude...really?

Do not develop shit in the same sink you wash your dishes in...wtf?!

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>>3001085
I use the MOD54 in a Paterson tank. Quite simple and easy to use. Uses a lot of chemicals, I mix up a liter to dev 6 sheets.

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Expired film is noice

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>>3001202
>You shouldn't be disposing your chemicals down the sink if that's what you're doing

why not? Been doing that for C41 and B&W and didn't have problems so far
>>3001212
>As long as nobody eats off the dishes after you've washed them, it's no problem.

you mean directly or afterwards? Just to clarify: there are no dishes in the sink while I develop, but I reuse the sink for dishes after I cleaning it up

>>3001275
>why not? Been doing that for C41 and B&W and didn't have problems so far
Because its god awful for the environment, you self centered prick.

>>3001275
kill yourself.

>>3001199
I don't know which dev you use, but I use HC110 and it's safe to dump down the drain. Fixer you shouldn't dump as it contains silver, as anon above said.

I've never worn gloves because I don't really make any mess when developing, but it probably doesn't hurt to use them.

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>>3001277
>>3001283
>hippies on my /p/

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Hey guys, theres something up with my scans and I can't figure out where I went wrong, I'm noticing a weird pattern or something that only appears on a few of my frames.

This is my first time shooting, developing and scanning my film at home. I shot a roll of Tri-X 400, developed according to Digital Truth's dev chart using D-76 and Kodak Fixer and scanned with a friends Epson V600 with Epson Scan.

Film in the paterson tank for 6m45s, agitating the first minute and for 30 seconds every minute, water to stop and I fixed for about the same time as developing. I did not use any hypoclear, photo flo or any other chemical besides developer and fixer.

This is a full, unedited scan.

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>>3001308
Here's a crop of that same frame.

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>>3001308
I only agitate for the first 30 seconds, but that probably isn't the issue here. Are you absolutely sure you mixed the chems correctly?

>>3001308
You did wash the film after fixing, right? 10 minutes under running water, right?

>>3001277
>Because its god awful for the environment, you self centered prick.
Are you going to be around to experience the aftermath?

>>3001277
it's really not.

Does anybody have experience using Oriental RC papers. I'm thinking about getting some 11x14 paper but have never used anything besides ilford. 50 sheets is $90cad and locally ilford is $135 for 50 sheets.

>>3001308
Did you make sure your temperatures were around 20C. Did you do a final rinse? Were the developer and fixer fresh and uncontaminated?

Everyone arguing about the chemicals and their environmental impact check this thread out first. photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00bWXz

How much should I pay for a Fuji GX680 III?

>tfw I fell for the pinhole meme

all you nigs really bought scanning software?

>>3001544
No. Hasselblad comped me some when I bought my Imacon.

>>3001544
I bought Capture One Pro 10 for Sony, if that's what you mean....

>>3001544
I pirated vuescan to try it but desu I am a fag and I just use epson scan

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i hate how i fucked up the exposure on this roll and all of the pictures were super grainy from being pushed by i still like this one.

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I know it's probably taboo here, but I'm gonna plug my 4x5 system up for sale one more time. Would rather give it to folks that are maybe aspiring to make the jump from 35mm or MF.

I've got a Graflex Crown Graphic up for sale with its original 135mm Xenar lens, and a few LF lenses.

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>>3001571
similar results or what?

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>>3001582
this is epson scan

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>>3001308
>>3001309
Congrats on being the first person to ever post a ful res shatbed scan in the fgt!
>surprise surprise, it's fucking garbage
To the point of your post though,
>>3001426
>>3001335
>>3001332 are nubs don't listen to any further advice they might have for you.
The problem you have is called reticulation.
It's when the gelatine emulsion on the film swells and then shrinks too quickly, and dries all wrinkled up.
It's caused by using water that is too hot somewhere in your process, and shocking the film with rapid temperature changes.
This might be because you didn't let your D76 cool down after you mixed it, or if you live in the scorched wasteland formerly known as Australia you may have rinsed it in water straight from the cold tap, currently running at about 32 degrees celsius (unlikely, given your picture, but w/evs).
The solution is to control your temps better.
20 degrees celsius for everything, including rinsing.
IN ADDITION to this, you didn't use enough developer to cover the film entirely, or you didn't put the other empty reel in the tank to stop this one moving up the spindle and out of the liquid when you agitated it, hence the strong light to dark gradient running top to bottom in the frame.
The solution is to always load both reels, even when you're only using one, or to not jew out on the extra 30ml of developer.

>>3001553
How come sometimes my files in capture one become read only

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>>3001641
Nevermind. I got it. Almost lost my fucking mind though. Scans can't be in greyscale...

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Sorry for late responses, work stuff etc etc

>>3001332
I am sure I mixed everything correctly, separate containers, separate measuring cups.
>>3001335
I dont think it was 10 minutes, more like 8 but what I read was final rinse wasn't as time critical as the other steps.
>>3001426
I didn't have a proper thermometer so I ball parked it, problem probably found, right?
>>3001622
Thanks for the tips, like I said above I mostly ball parked the temperatures. I did put both reels in the tank with developer solution but I don't remember if I put the roll on the bottom or top, probably should have put it on the bottom.

Seems like the problem is I need a not shit thermometer. Thanks /FGT/

>Get some tf-4 fixer
>dilute it
>Fucking dead bugs and flys come out of the bottle.
The fuck is up with that shit

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Come on what're you guys printing?

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>>3002076
ill print tonight or tmw

>>3001706
>anon doesn't know about the secret blend of herbs and spices that makes tf-4 so effective

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what film are you guys shooting on? just want to get a general idea of what this board shoots. reply to this with your top 2 .

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I was just thinking about getting some old analog pro cam.
Which ones are memes which are the best? I'm just looking to sometimes take some analog pictures so I don't want to spend much either.

>>3002076
>>3002123
Who even prints here?
>>3002163
Retro 80s is a favourite and hp5+ but I like the deltas better.

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How does this look?

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>>3002163
Fomapan 100 and Ilford Pan 400. Going cheap.

Is getting an Asahi Spotmatic as my first camera a good idea?, I mostly want to do street photography and maybe portraits

About to get a F100. Going to shoot mostly the 50mm f/1.8G, and sometimes the 105mm f/2.8 VR macro. Anything I should be aware of besides the supposed battery drain, and that the auto-rewind function sometimes jumps the gun? Is the rewind fork replacement thing a biggie, i.e. can I expect the camera to irreparably conk out for that reason at some point?

>>3002163
Currently, RPX 400 and Delta 3200, both rated according to numbers, in HC-110(b). Come summertime it'll be RPX 100 instead of the Delta. And probably lots of colour film as well, once the snow fucks off & spring rolls in.

I'm inordinately satisfied with how RPX 400 ends up looking, despite being a budget film. It's far less a step down in terms of quality than it is in price; a direct competitor to HP5+ and Tri-X, rather than an also-ran with APX 400, Fomapan 400, Kentmere 400, and the like.

>>3002293
totally, go for it.

>>3002163
x-ray
portra

Has anyone tried UV-A shit? You can get an old, chrome-bottom EL NIkkor 80mm for like 30$ on eBay. Get the appropriate step-up ring, then slap a 46mm B+W 403 filter on it, throw the pair in front of a OEM or other bellows (Soviet ones are cheap) and you can use it with pretty much any film. You're looking at about 200$ for UV-A photography.

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>>3002195
I'm printing tonight anon. I have a humble dark room.

>>3002330
you payed for this to get developed?

>>3002163
Provia and Superia lately.

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>>3002163
From a recent trip

>>3002324
>UV-A
I've never heard of this. I'll look into it

>>3002381
Nice dude! What Kodak e6 is that? Post up the 400X results!

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G R A I N
R
A
I
N

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>>3002319
Thanks!

>>3000034
I need help lads regarding DSLR scanning. I started shooting not so long ago so I'm still experimenting to see what works for me but here's how I scan:
phone screen for backlight around 3cm away from the negative and using macro tubes with my modest lens kit at 55mm. Then on Lightroom I take the RAW files, crop out the film strip and invert the RGB channels separately and here's the issue. I'm getting some blue pixels in certain areas of the photos. How can I fix that or what other method would mighty /p/ recommend?

>>3002517
Are your DSLR scan exposures quite long? Post an example of what you mean

>>3002518
Thanks for the quick response and I guess, since the phone's brightness is not that bright I'm using a remote trigger and 1/60 s of exposure. Can't share right now, I'm on graveyard shift but when I get home I'll do.

>>3002519
How are you getting 1/60th of a second when using a phone as a backlight? Using my phone at full brightness with a piece of acrylic between the screen and the negative gives me exposures 6-10 seconds long at f8 and 100iso.

>>3002519
1/60th is fine, I was thinking about bright pixels that some cameras get with long exposures, but those don't usually start to appear until like 10 seconds

>>3002521
I think it's f5.6 and 200iso
>>3002522
I should have said the blue areas only appear after inverting the channels, but let me get home and I'll share a pic with ya, in the meantime can you guys share your procedure? (inverting, WB, etc.)

>>3001662
>I didn't have a proper thermometer so I ball parked it, problem probably found, right?
>>>3001622
>Thanks for the tips, like I said above I mostly ball parked the temperatures. I did put both reels in the tank with developer solution but I don't remember if I put the roll on the bottom or top, probably should have put it on the bottom.
>
>Seems like the problem is I need a not shit thermometer. Thanks /FGT/
For once in a while I can post without being an utterly smarmy bastard. You don't need a thermometer for black and white, don't let the autism capture you.
The majority of processing is done at 20c or 21c. Slower processing time allows for greater control over the process and is less likely to give you uneven development. If you do not have a second wheel and are rotating the tank upside down, stop and spin the reel instead with the included agitator. I highly doubt you're using steel reels/tanks.

What you need, is to bring your chemistry and water to room temperature before process. Since humans are usually cosy as all hell at around 22-23c, water will settle somewhere around 20-21c. And when I say water for rinsing, I do mean using a few large sodie pop bottles to store a few litres of water for your pre rinse and post rinse. Use the ilford method for rinsing and as the water starts to run out (50%), mix it with your tap water before finally doing a rinse under tap water.

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>>3002534
Prepare to have your life changed: https://www.iamthejeff.com/post/32/the-best-way-to-color-correct-c-41-negative-film-scans

Does all of the nasty inversion work for you. So I just open the raw file in photoshop, hit the play button on that workflow, add an unsharp mask and then import it into lightroom and develop it properly. Works really well

The workflow will give you a low contrast and bright image, so don't be discouraged. This allows you maximum control over the image in your editing software of choice. I did the attached image with said workflow, comes out a treat with a quick tone curve

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Vertical Resolution	300 dpi

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>>3002195
I do, was going to print last night but definitely will tonight.

File: macca-hipster.jpg (48KB, 476x700px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3002503
have fun.

I was redirected from gear to here. I was gifted a konica autoreflex tc with 3 lenses a couple of years ago and i know nothing of cmeras. Is it any good?

File: diy.jpg (1MB, 2144x1424px) Image search: [Google]

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>>3002076
Printing a few snowy nature shots.

>>3002195
I clearly do.

>>3002703
>Fucking faggots and their shitty overpriced enlargers
Fucking DIY all the way. Results are not bad, but aren't gallery quality either.

>>3002724
bro that enlarger with shipping cost less than a cheap canon lens most people use on their kit dslrs...

>>3002716
Does it work? Do the lenses work? If yes, it's good. Film cameras are merely more than a light-tight box. Go out and shoot

>>3002724
This is neat, but people fucking give away enlargers and darkroom equipment these days. Why spend the time and effort to make something you could get for free / almost free?

>>3002743

A) I live in the middle of nowhere, where people still use that stuff.
B) I had some old Pentax lens, unused putty and wood rather than trash it I decided to make something useful.

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First home developed roll. Acros in Ilfosol 3

Feels good mang, thought I was gonna fuck it up for some reason

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I need an advice.
I want to make a ~6hr night time exposure using a pinhole camera. so far my attempts failed - I either got abstract black and white shapes or the paper sheet was just plain gray. what kind of light do I need?

>>3002794
Check your scene's lighting.
When you start going for long time, you'll run into the reciprocity failures.
Likely why you have only abstract shapes.
Try finding a diff paper or film, and look through the datasheets. Should have some chart or graph related to exposure times vs light intensity.
Lastly, do a bit more research on long exposures and pinhole cameras.

>>3002794
>a ~6hr night time exposure using a pinhole camera.

This'll work at most in a well-lit environment, EV6 and up. Pinholes are like f/192 or something ludicrous like that, 15 or 16 stops, so an EV6 scene would expose for 1000 seconds (about 16m40s), on ISO100 film. And your photo paper isn't going to be ISO100.

>>3002794
If you want to get autistic over it. Most people say photo paper is around ISO 3-6. So you'd meter for ISO 100 then increase the exposure time by 7. This doesn't take into account reciprocity failure. Most B/W paper will be contrasty done this way, so people recommend pre-flashing your paper.
If you want to find out the aperture of your pinhole, you'll have to google for yourself.

The easiest way is to keep experimenting.

>>3002757
Looks good homie

>>3002757
Looking good mate keep it up. Gonna print and of those frames?

>>3002972
Once I get access to a darkroom I'll hopefully print a few frames from the roll. Right now don't really have the room for an enlarger in my house

>>3001233
I fucking love this picture.

>>3002330
nothing is in focus..

>>3002498
saw this on reddit lmao, well done with the photo.

>>3002757
What did you scan with? Looks good.

Plustek 8100. It's pretty good for the money, I've done some pretty large prints with it and they've come out well. DSLR scanning would be better quality wise, but a desktop scanner is easier since you don't have to jerry-rig a tripod setup every time you want to scan something.

For some reason the results from B&W are much better than what I get from colour negative film, probably a configuration issue.

>>3003215
meant for
>>3003203

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>>3002521
>>3002522
>>3002548
I just realized the issue appears only in Lightroom, when I export the photos they look fine. And I'll get into that link in a moment, thanks

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>>3002757
Acros is the shit. Awesome job man. After the first couple of rolls it becomes second nature. My tip is to learn one film and dev combo really really well before moving on to a new emulsion or developer.

>>3003199
Thanks dude.

>>3003202
Ha-ha, yeah Reddit fucking loved that shit.

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>>3003258
Yeah I think I'm gonna stick with Acros for a while, it's pretty cheap compared to Tri-X and HP5 and it's virtually grainless.

My only issue this time is that right at the end of the roll the reel got stuck and refused to accept any more film, resulting in a little bend in one of the frames (attached). I think it was because the start of the film had a little kink in it and the reel was still a little wet from when I washed it

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>>3002875
>>3002892
>>3002944
thanks a lot. I'll try with pre flashing and a better light set up

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>>3002195

>>3003383
Oooh a colour enlarger, fancy

Consider me jelly. Is it any harder than making prints with a traditional enlarger?

>>3003383
Nice. Do you have an RA-4 processor or do you do it completely manually?

>>3003388
Its easier because the filters are just built in and you can dial more or less of each color in with a knob.

>>3003395

trays floating in hot water in a concrete mixing tub.

>>3003397
Cool.
I'm signing a contract for a studio/darkroom tomorrow, going to try to get RA-4 processing set up.

>>3003399
If you are on the east coast Unique photo has super cheap kodak ra-4 chemicals. You don't need starter or stop bath (just water between the dev and blix)

>>3003401
Nope, I'm in Norway, but I have access to cheap-ish chemicals through the local lab I sometimes work at, that does C-prints still.

>>3003403
Well best of luck to you !

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>>3003383
Nice man. I'm going back to print today. Here's a sample

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Bought a Fujica ST801 (babby's first SLR)

There is some play on the back cover when I push it down. Will this cause light leakage?

webm here:
>>>/wsg/1496967