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/film/

This is a blue board which means that it's for everybody (Safe For Work content only). If you see any adult content, please report it.

Thread replies: 344
Thread images: 123

File: DSC03391.jpg (252KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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This is the Film General Thread, aka FGT.
This is where you can post your film photos without flushing them down the recent photo toilet.

>just posting in the fgt doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot Fujicolor Industrial 100

It is ok to ask about film gear in this thread.

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>>
the analog
>>
If you could have one fixed lens film camera what would it be? I like compacts but I'm not about to shell out 300 for a klasse/yashica/contax/hexar. Mju is nice but I like aperture priority.

Bonus disposable shot refilled with portra.
>>
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>>2957548

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>>
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>>2957550

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>>2957552

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>>
>>2957550
I like how the chromabs are so strong it basically creates a double image towards the edge of the frame...
>>
>>2957531
just cross posting, update from earlier in the thread.
>>
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>>
I'm in Berlin at the moment, where can I buy decently priced film?
>>
>>2957761
Fotoimpex, Alte Schönhauser Str. 32, 10119
>>
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So I just bought a Kodak Retina 1A for my gf's birthday and was surprised to see it's absolutely tiny, like pocket-sized. Are there any other super-compact cameras out there which look as good as this?
>>
>>2957765
Thanks man, gonna look today.
>>
>paying for film
>paying for development
>paying for photos that didnt turn out quite right
>limiting the amount of shots you can take
Boy you sure fell for that meme
>>
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>>2957779
Yeah, I sure got tricked...

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>>
>>2957779
>paying for photos that didnt turn out quite right
Not if you know how to use a camera
>>
>>2957938
>pretending every photo hes ever taken has come out as expected
>>
>>2957779
>paying for photos that didnt turn out quite right

Beats paying for photos I never took.
>>
>>2957955
What did he mean by this?
>>
>>2957553
Is this Genoa?
>>
>>2957803
>>2957938
>>2957955
He probably can't get a decent photo out of his shitty p&s from Goodwill, so don't sweat it!
>>
>>2957955
why
>>
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Got my hands on a bunch of Provia and Velvia 16 years past the expiration date, so I went out with the potatomatic Nettar. Here are a few shots.
And yes,
>NORITSU KOKI
>kill me

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>>
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>>
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I know, Novar vignettes as fuck when stopped down.

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>>
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Also lovely edge blur that seems to happen with some specific apertures.

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File: 73160001.jpg (1MB, 1268x1280px) Image search: [Google]
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Time to call it a day.

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>>
Fuji Superia 400, cropped and auto everything since I don't know what I'm doing, just playing around I guess.
>>
>>2957977
>>2957979
hotness
When you say potatomatic do you mean automatic?
Or potato-tier?
Either way, you nailed the exposure, good work.
And no bellows leaks, doubleplusgood.
>>
>>2958026
Thanks. Potato in the sense that Nettar was a cheap compact snapshitter of its day. Still fun as fuck to shoot, though. Seem to be tough little bastards too, I have two and neither one has leaks or any other defects aside from looking pretty beat up. Used a Fujica SLR to meter for these shots. I'm really surprised how the film apparently hasn't given a fuck about being way expired, it hadn't even been cold stored.
>>
File: ROOFTOP SNOW_LR.jpg (571KB, 980x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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Getting ready for winter. Found this from January 2015, my first apartment in Brooklyn.

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>>2957548
The XA series is nice, I have two of the original XAs and a flash, good kit. The rollei 35 is neat but I somehow broke the shutter advance off mine and have never seen a "for parts" one.

>>2957979
thats rad.

pic is somewhere north of Santa Barbara in 2014.

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>>
>>2958135
That photo is nice af. Come to Japan, plenty of trashed Rollei 35s.
>>
File: Japan148mini.jpg (538KB, 1180x800px) Image search: [Google]
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Some real gay Fujicolor Industrial 100.

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>>
>>2958184
>Canon EOS 550D
lol homo.
>>
>>2958191
>rolls eyes
>>
>>2958191
c'mon m8, you're going to have to step up if you really wanna give this guy some hate.
You're not even the full time DSLR scanfag hater. To become me, you're going to have to mention this gigantic faggot anytime someone mentions DSLR scanning and buy the guy who also fucking DSLR scans.
>>2957459
>I'm sure you're not alone, bb #butthurtnetwurk
I'm not, but most of it's me. Though I don't hate you for your photos or scans.
>>
>>2958191
>What is DSLR scanning for $400 Pat.
>>
>decide to go out to shoot Tri-X at 1600 for murky nightly city scenes and shiet
>accidentally picked a roll of TMax instead
Oh god.
>>
>>2958184
God I love those fullframe tones.

>>2958200
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sT1bp9ujQEE
>>
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Nice shots y'all

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>>
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>>2958222
One more

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>>
File: Acros_001.jpg (405KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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comfy Acros shot and developed today

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>>
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>>2958328
And my ghetto scan setup that I said I would post in thr last /fgt/ thread but didn't.

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>>
>>2958209
>fullframe tones

wut
>>
>>2958335

new hot meme.
>>
>>2957550
>>2957552
>>2957553
nice man love the feel of the images. how did you refill it and was it potra 200 ?

in my expierence with shitty dispoable cameras the film is pre-rolled onto a spoll and you wind into the canister how you manage that ?
>>
>>2958200
That's no problem. TMY goes to EI1600 in HC-110 without issue, or even much grain.

Won't look like tri-x of course, but that's what you get for your fingers of butter.
>>
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ilford pan 400/diyrodinal stand
>>
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women's protest against stricter abortion laws, HP5
>>
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>>2958135
this could be so good but the out-of-focus is more obnoxious than pleasant

I would either bring it in focus, or take it out of focus just a little bit more to make sure it looks intentional (if thats what you were going for)
>>
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Some recent photos, Neopan 400

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>>
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>>
>>2958392
>oh look, its that kurwa turboautist. go away faggot!
>>
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>>
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TMax pushed to 200

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>>
File: 94140009.jpg (534KB, 820x1236px) Image search: [Google]
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Weird colors

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>>
File: 94140011.jpg (634KB, 1236x820px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2958470

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>>
>>2958474
>ПOЛИЦЯ riot kamaz, no license plates, dodgy old repurposed warehouse

well this doesnt look suspicious st all
>>
>>2958470
>weird colours
>posts lab scan
I'm sorry, but this invalidates your comment completely.
>>
>>2958570
how? it looks like you're arguing that it has weird colors because it's a lab scan, but that doesn't make the colors not weird?
>>
>>2958577
Gimme a second to scan something from my archives wrong and on auto. Then we can go ahead and call the colours weird, okay?
>>
>>2958582
i genuinely don't know what you're on about or why
>>
>>2958583
I wouldn't expect someone who's incapable of using a keyboard properly of understanding much. It's okay anon. I understand it can be tough.
>>
>>2958474
fug i wwant a 6wd dakar truck with a cage for prisoners
>more like cumazz
>>
>>2958587
so you were just looking for a chance to pretend to be superior to someone you will never have to meet

i'm sorry, but this invalidates your comments completely
>>
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It's nice that /p/ pretty much always has an FGT going on. Post more guys. I'll put a couple new ones in here just because I don't feel like making my own thread as I'm leaving town in a few days anyway.

Ektar handling insane highlights.

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>>
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>>2958663
I've only got a few for now anyway, but i just developed some 50 sheets and 10 rolls this week so I've got some material that will take a few months to sort through when I get back.

Velvia 50 somehow handling the highlights better than expected.

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>>
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>>2958665
And some Provia.

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>>
>>2958663

wtf i love ektar now!
>>
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>>2958670
You should always love Ektar!

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>>
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Oh for a higher resolution of this scan....


Even on 35mm film there's so much detail in there, where single grains have been flecked off by a tint of light that might never have flipped a bit on a sensor.

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Camera SoftwareFDi V4.5 / FRONTIER340-3.0-0E-518
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>>
File: 4q.jpg (484KB, 639x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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>>
>>2958666
I'm as moist as that leaf right now.
>>
>>2958665
Is this a weird crop or something?
The bottom right seems a little distorted or soft for some reason. This light must have been phenomenal for rvp to come out like this. Did you use a colour filter?
>>
>>2958686
That's pretty damn moist.

>>2958687
It's not cropped at all, just the wide 75mm lens which can get a little different looking with subjects that are close. I believe I used a warming filter and I recall waving the darkslide over the top of the image for about 3 seconds of the 12 second exposure to help with the sky just a tad without being obvious. Still, I expected the highlights to be blown out worse.
>>
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fucked up and didnt get the top in frame

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>>
Anyone here NOT develop & print their own film?

Where do you get it done? Just some local places?
>>
>>2958704

here.

>Just some local places?

of coursh.
>>
>>2958704
Colour I just get dev'd at the 1 hour place in town then (dlsr) scan them myself.
>>
File: img444.jpg (520KB, 900x1100px) Image search: [Google]
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Couple Acros snaps.

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>>2958722

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>>
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>>2958724

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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>>
>>2958703
critiques other than the top being cut out?
>>
>>2958753
Middle gold, a little head that subsides too quickly and leaves little lacing. Sweet grain and corn nose, Taste follows, fairly full flavors (considering) but the carbonation is too high for me to really enjoy, and there is also a metallic taste on the edge that I can't get past. Wet and a little messy, but not bad....decent bitterness on the back half, but that's about all the hops bring...very little in the way of flavor. It's been about 5 or 6 years since I've had one of these, and it's about what I remember. Is what it is.
Or if you were referring to the photo, what exactly do you expect us to see in an out of focus photo of a shitty beer bottle sitting on a counter? What are you trying to communicate with this?
>>
>>2958755
Honestly not trying to communicate much here. Might have had a focus issue when scanning with the dslr as well, will check.
>>
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>>2958756
Focus should be slightly better.
Still not a great picture, more of a snapshit desu.

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>>
>>2958663
How'd you meter this?
>>
>>2958704
I have local kodak shop and and another photo store to develop&scan film. Quite cheap and useful, but there is a huge gap in quality between them.
>>
>>2958727
lovely
>>2958724
>>2958722
awful
>>
>>2958793
I metered for the tree branches that were up and out of the frame, which made for a scene nearly two stops overexposed if I had just metered from where the camera was pointing. The important details were the leaves and the needed to be bright, I knew the film would handle the sky.
>>
>>2958663
Wow! The contrast between the leaves and wood is incredible, and the golden light here and the wood is excellent.
>>
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/fgt/, why are square/rectangle hoods so god tier?

Also, post your sweet hoods

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>>
>>2959017

they are manly af.

have you seen dslr petal hoods? LOL
>>
>muhhhhh special snowflake elite super dooper im better than you muhhhh dark room muhhh film stock club
Just accept digital overtook film years ago and get over it
>>
>>2959040

ever shot film, buddy? its super fun, you should try it some day.
>>
>>2959044
The fun is superficial at best. Digital is way more fun and the achievable results are far more diverse
>>
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>>2959040
Bonus points for the strawman.
>>
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Are the changing bags from ebay good? Anything i should be aware of to choose a good one?
>>
>>2957768
Check out the later 6x6 models of the Zeiss Super Ikontas (and their russian Moskva clones).

Agfa Super Isolette is also a pretty spiffy and good quality folder in the same vein.
>>
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>>2959103
forgot pic

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>>2959105
>>
My Pentax K1000 has been sitting in a drawer for a few months. I took it out to use it and the light meter needle initially didn't seem to be working (stuck in the center), but after a little bit it started acting wonky. Now it appears to be working.

So, is this normal behavior if I haven't used it in a while? Should I change the battery or something?
>>
>>2959050

The fun is superficial at best. Film is way more fun and the achievable results are far more diverse.
>>
>>2959194
You should generally take the batteries out of any camera that's going to be shelved for more than a month. This way risks less corrosion and what-not, and the batteries will self-discharge less than they would attached to an (hopefully) open circuit.
>>
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A couple threads back, someone asked about winding 2 rolls of 120 onto a single Patterson-type reel. I finally tried this tonight and I can confirm that it works perfectly. Load first roll normally, then feed it by hand until it hits the end of the reel. Load second roll normally. No issues, was easy, worked perfectly.

Also, pic related is the test of the day. Same shot, same camera, same exposure, two films, both rolls developed in the same tank at the same time. Left is Lomo400cn, right is Portra400. 100% crops. Only adjustments are slight white balance adjustments. What are your thoughts /fgt/'s???

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
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Image-Specific Properties:
>>
File: sm161026_04.jpg (330KB, 1000x678px) Image search: [Google]
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superia 400
>>
File: sm161026_10.jpg (292KB, 1000x684px) Image search: [Google]
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File: sm161104_24.jpg (319KB, 702x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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portra 160
>>
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>>2957779
>>
I want a 35mm point and shoot, what should I look for? I was hoping to just pick up something really cheap but all the local thrift stores seem to never have anything good and everything on ebay has been hipster taxed to hell. All the common suggestions like the Mju II and XA and L35AF seem to be selling for like $100+ which seems outrageous.

If I'm going to spend that much I would rather get a Rollei 35 or something like that which at least looks like it's beautiful and high quality and not some cheap 90s plastic trash with a bunch of electronics and motors that break.

What should I do? I really just want something that fits in a jacket pocket and has a wide or normal prime lens which is reasonably good, doesn't have to be excellent but no lomo shit. I honestly don't really mind autofocus or manual focus or even scale focus, and I can guess exposure well enough without a meter too.

The Rollei 35 isn't really what I was originally looking for and they seem to go for like $100-$200 which is fine but I was looking for something cheaper. Any thoughts?

If not then there's a couple of random obscure Pentax or Canon autofocus point and shoots which aren't really hyped up much online so they're pretty cheap. They all seem to be bigger than what I wanted, though, and they have IR autofocus which sounds pretty primitive and possibly more annoying than just not having AF at all.
>>
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>>2959403
The guys checking out the girl stretching outside
>>
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1/3

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2/3

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3/3

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Equipment MakeFUJI PHOTO FILM CO., LTD.
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>>
>>2959442
>>2959443

Blue balance looks bad on these anon.
>>
>>2958753
it's an under-exposed, out of focus snapshit of a beer bottle, with uninteresting framing?

What are you expecting/looking for here exactly?
>>
>>2959017
Idk, but they do look very nice, maybe it has something to do with it looking like something out of the days when photography was still more of a respected art and people subconsciously recognise that, but that's just a guess

>>2959400
Just buy an Olympus OM-1 and use the 50mm kit lens, which are almost always included. It's barely larger than a compact anyways. They can be had for as little as €20 here (Netherlands), my guess is it won't be much more anywhere else. Enjoy a fully functioning mechanical SLR which only uses a small battery for the built-in TTL meter which you can turn off if you're guesstimating anyways.

If you really want a mechanical point and shit, go for the Olympus Trip-35, but do look for one which is offered with the small leather case, because then there's a good chance it's been mostly kept in said case, saving the selenium cell which has a chance of wearing out over the decades if kept in light. I have one with a basically pristine cell, it's a breeze to use and the lens is quite good for a compact.
>>
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>>2959017
Fuck, forgot pic

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>>
>>2959400
IR AF is based and they should still be putting it in cameras today.
The 35/2.8 Pentacks P&S's are also quite sharp and still cheap. Do recommend.
>>
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Hello /film/,
recently I restarted taking pictures with my old Voigtländer Bessa 120
Since the camera is in bad shape and quite antiquated I'm considering moving to another medium format camera.
I'm looking for something in the low price segment, maybe a rolleiflex replica?
What do you suggest?
Also I have no clue regarding which films to pick.
Lastly is medium format really superior or is this just some sort of meme?
pic related snapshit made with my camera
>>
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Time for this month's shitpost on Ferrania.

>IVANO'S WORLD
>Running low on chemicals
>Realizing decades old chemical is not enough

So they figured out that photographic chemicals often don't rain from the sky? Or that they actually had to start PRODUCING them?
>>
>>2958447
This looks like it's from an old Biology textbook
>>
>>2959404
Love it!
>>
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going to be developing b/w film for the first time, local photo shop has a darkroom for rent. Are the plastic reels or the steel ones easier to use? Any gotchas I should know about?

>shitty print from last time I was in a darkroom ten years ago
>>
>>2960075
They thought they'd be able to make a bunch of film with the chemicals because there were a lot of chemicals left over, but some key chemicals aren't in abundance.

Ivano has to recreate the old chemicals and he tastes the chemicals to check if it's the same.
>>
>>2960075
Never coming out. Ever.

It's nice to get funded and it's nice to think of something coming back but it's all too obvious now that these guys sat around in some coffee shop in Italy enjoying their overpriced coffee paid for in disgusting euros and said
>well yeah man I totally liked ferrania it was the best slide film and colour film like this is just the export that Italy needs in this post-EU world we can bring the film back guys haha we can just buy up the plans and the factory and we can hire some guys to make it work we'll put out a kickstarter and we'll have the film out by next year

Instead of someone slapping Luigi and Nicola and telling them to get a real jerb, they went ahead with their plan and people gave them money, even eurosocialistbux to open a plant they have no idea how to run.
I'm looking forward to them missing 2016 entirely and I feel confident enough to make another £100 bet that they won't be up next year either.
>>
>>2957779
>stop liking things I don't like!

Last roll I shot I got 36 keepers out of 38 shots I managed to squeeze out of the 36 exp roll somehow.

Digital can't even come close to how hard my peepee gets seeing film negs and positive transparencies.
>>
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>>2960258
>holding a fresh strip of medium format Velvia against a bright lamp to observe the orgastic colors
>>
>>2960274
I just shot a roll of velvia a snapshots of me and my girlfriend at the beach.

So good. Timeless colors and look. Something I'd wish my grand grand kids looked at
>>
>>2960180
When a plastic reel works properly, they're very easy to load.
A steel reel is always the same moderate degree of difficulty to load correctly.
An uncooperative plastic reel will make you want to murder puppies, babies, commit harajuku, etc.
>>
>>2960400
Any reel no matter what it's made out of should be completely dry and not have any chemical residue on it or it'll be a bitch to load. Remember to rinse it off well and leave it out to dry fully when you're done developing so that you don't have a bad time next time. If the film touches even a drop of water on the reel it'll soak it up and swell up and be a bitch to spool on properly.

I've always been a fanboy for Hewes steel reels, they're high quality and they always work if you know how to load it correctly. Yeah plastic seems easier at first but then sometimes they just don't want to work right and they'll just chew up your film or fuck everything up for no reason. Cheap off-brand steel reels tend to be poorly made and have sharp edges and stuff that catch the film too.
>>
>>2960420
don't you hate developing film? does it feel like a chore?
>>
might be a stupid question.. how would a 400 film shot and developed at 800 act if some of the images was overexposed by two stops? would the images be more or less contrasty?
>>
>>2960476
porta, specifically
>>
>>2960438
Yeah it's a pain in the ass but I like the results and it's satisfying to process your photos every step of the way from taking the photo through hanging up the final print to dry.

The real pain in the ass isn't even developing though, nothing is more miserable than scanning.
>>
>>2960483
>nothing is more miserable than scanning.

scanning is pretty comfy. there is nothing better than watching the preview strip and say "holy fuck that actually came out good!".
>>
>>2960477
Porta's not a film
>>2960476
You'd probably get back a roll of worthless snapshits, because it had obviously been shot by a total fucking moron.
But the images metered at 200 would be the best ones on the roll.
>implying there's any lab in the fucking universe that would dutifully observe a 16yo's request that they push process portra 400 by one stop
Hot tip buddy, they took your money, and then once you'd left pointed to the pathetic little "+1" you'd scribbled on the canister and shared a good chuckle.
>>
>>2960476
http://carmencitafilmlab.com/how-exposure-affects-film/
>>
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i have a question, i just bought an AE-1 Program, looks brand new, probably only been used once and there was still a 12 shot film inside, i might be curious enough to develop it.

i bought it 20 euro, i was wondering two things, first it's making that squeaking noise, should i really try to fix it or is it ok and it's just a noise, like is it like a major issues ?

and secondly the program mode, i'm very curious about it, i had an F1 which was full manual setting so it's a big change, i wanted to know if the program mode is good enough to just use it most of the time and not worry. and if not in which scenario should i switch to manual mode ?

also im growing tired of ektar, wanted to try provia, but i dont really know the sharpest the better.

here's some ektar 100 if i recall, will post 3 or 4 from my latest roll, snapshiting to the limit.

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>>2960502
2

also any idea for a nice b&w film ? i always used illford made the job, any suggestion ?

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>>2960504
3

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>>
>>2960506
4

just smoke volutes
>>
Copped an MJU i 35-70 to snapshit a bit with, in great condition for $35AU
How'd I do?
Wanted an mju ii but they seem to go for a lot more on eBay.
>>
>>2960504
Most contemporary B&W film is real good. There are exceptions, of course: notably Fomapan, Kentmere, and the Chinese brands (Lucky and Shanghai, IIRC). Fomapan is expensive for what it is (in a hi-fi sense; if you want to shoot 70s halation-out-the-ass film, go right ahead; their RetroPan 320 is like doubly that), Kentmere is just about the right price, and the Chinese ones are mostly only acceptable in medium format because of the grain.

For a good sampler, buy three rolls each of Tri-X, T-Max 400, Ilford HP5+, Ilford Delta 400, and some weird-arse surprise films as well. Shoot them at box speed, develop them yourself, scan them in, and see what you like. Try slower films as well: FP4+, PanF+, T-Max 100, Delta 100. They're all different enough to be distinct products for their respective manufacturers.

But then there's specialty films, like super-panchromatic films (Retro 80s, Retro 400s, Superpan 200, Ilford SFX, and I forget the rest) that tend to have all of jack shit in terms of dynamic range, but some curious things like extended IR sensitivity which makes e.g. Superpan 200 rather nice for portraits of women. Mess with them at your leisure, but not for anything really important.

Also, get yourself a medium yellow (K2) filter. It's an easy way to make the skies something besides an uniform white.
>>
>>2960502
Mine has also made the squeaking noise since I've had it, no issues to report.
There's a reason the Based God Kenneth calls it P for Professional mode. Nigga knows wassup.
>>
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>>2960509
thanks for all that man, i was blind and now i see.
also i actually had a yellow filter in my bag, just didnt thouth about using it this morning sadly.

>>2960512
niiice, cant wait for trying it out!

>>2960507
meant to post this, i love shooting those with my phones, then i apply some sort of mirror effect with an app, wanted to try it with an actual camera

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>>
>>2960508
Zoom lenses on point and shoots are absolutely fucking awful, literally anything with a prime lens would have been a lot better. Still, if it works and takes photos then you did ok I guess. I wouldn't pay $35 USD for a zoom point and shit, but maybe 35 kangaroos is a decent price.
>>
>>2960509
I feel like I should mention Acros 100 since that's my favorite film, other than that I agree.

Also note which films are cubic grain and which ones are T-grain. T-grain films give more resolution with finer grain and can be a bit more finicky about your choice of developer and your processing technique. Cubic grain is the old-school look and the grain will look more like what you would expect from old black and white photos.
>>
>>2960524
Mainly for the girlfriend because she dislikes primes.
Lens looks surprisingly good in some of the shots I've seen but I agree a 35mm prime would have been better.
$35AU is actually decent considering you won't find them for nothing on Craigslist like the states
>>
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>>2960522

once iv applied the mirror, you get those dope palyndromic pattern, and some sick telephone wallpaper or wathever, these are not the best iv made.

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>>2960532

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>>
>>2960504
It looks like Paris.
>>
>>2960509
>which makes e.g. Superpan 200 rather nice for portraits of women

Can you explain that?
>>
>>2960550
Skin looks really smooth in IR. Usually portraits in black and white will be shot with some sort of yellow/orange/red filter because those hide freckles and imperfections.

You can take a color portrait and look at the individual color channels in black and white and you'll notice that the green and blue channels usually look awful and the red looks pale and smooth.
>>
so uh

any of you guys ever developed with caffenol?
>>
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lool

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>>2960495
woah, did someone pee in your cereal buddy?
>>
>>2959096
Do you really not have a room with no windows (bathroom, walk-in closet, pantry) that you couldn't use to load film?

Changing bags are a pita and unnecessary for most people.
>>
>>2960495
Of course a lab would respect that, as long as they paid extra for running a separate batch, or they delivered enough films that it made a whole batch.
It's not like it would cost the lab anything extra apart from an additional 30 seconds worth of time.

t. Someone who's developed customers C-41 at a push
>>
>>2960400
Ive never met a plastic reel I couldn't load a roll onto in less than a minute, and I've used a lot of different brands.

I'm convinced some people are just retarded.
>>
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>>2960509
I dunno, I found Lucky to be quite beautiful in 35mm. there's some grain, sure...but the lack of the anti-halation layer is kinda cool (pic related).

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>>2960661
>I'm convinced some people are just retarded.
They are, they're unaware that the film will catch on the side if you're too retarded to pull it.
>>
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Speaking of reels, is something fucked with mine? For the last two rolls shot on different cameras I get this smudge that appears at around frame 20. Sometimes it's a thin scratch, sometimes a broad cloudy smudge. The weird thing is how it only appears towards the last third of the roll.
>>
Any advice for a good workflow for DSLR-scanning film? What i have: D7000, bellows, 50mm 1.8, a crappy tripod and an android tablet i'm thinking of using as a light source. Also have stitching software and Lightroom.
>>
>>2960550
Yeah, what >>2960561 said. Removing the blue channel, or de-emphasizing it by having a higher red response, tends to make skin look smoother and nicer. Similarly a green filter will make pockmarked working-class men look grittier where a yellow filter would do the opposite.

The IR thing only works under natural light though, infrared being mostly absent from e.g. LED and CFL light. Coloured filters work depending on the colour of the light; standard characterization is stated in terms of reflected sunlight (possibly thru cloud cover).
>>
>>2960699
tell us more about your workflow in the lab
what sort of reels/tanks are you using? metal or plastic?
are you using standard temp chemistry (68 deg) or are you processing hotter than recommended?
do you use a wetting agent (e.g. photoflo)?
do these smudges/scratches appear immediately after you take the film out of the reel or have you only noticed them after the film has dried/been put into neg sleeves?
>>
>>2960952
for instance if you aren't waiting long enough for your film to dry completely, the part of the roll hanging up top will be dry quicker than the bottom part.
if that's the case putting it into a negative sleeve prematurely could cause the emulsion to smudge on the bottom parts that are not yet completely dry, especially if you are developing at a hotter temp than 68 (since hotter temperatures can remove/loosen the emulsion from the film base)
>>
>>2960952
I use a Kaiser tank with a plastic reel.

First roll was stand developed at +20C 1:200 dilution for 60 minutes. Second one (from which the pic is from) with Rodinal 1:25 for 11 minutes at +20C. I don't sleeve my negatives before scanning, I hang them to dry, cut and feed to the scanner, and sleeve after scanning. I don't want anything touching the emulsion before it has been scanned. Oh well, I haven't been doing developing a whole lot yet, so maybe it's just my reel-fu. I'll try a different method of unloading the spiral on the next run.
>>
>>2957537
I'm completely new to Film Photography. Does anyone have some links or any helpful info on what I should know/how to get started? I love the quality that film photography produces.
>>
>>2961018
>Step 1: Buy film camera
>Step 2: Buy film
>Step 3: Shoot
>Step 4: Develop film (at home or at lab)
>Step 5: ???
>Step 6: Shitposting in /fgt/!
>>
>>2961020
How would I go about developing film at home?
>>
>>2961030
depending on whether you want to do B&W or color you're going to need corresponding chemicals

For color you need C41 chemicals, which consist of a developer, a blix (bleach + fixer) and stabilizer (I use the Tetenal C41 kit). The C41 (color) process is fairly standardized so it's pretty much the same every time, but you have to be very careful with the temperature because even slight variation can fuck up the pictures. That said, I only ever fucked up 1 roll and that was as not in the beginning.

B&W is a lot easier and has a lot more margin of error + you can adjust the times/temperatures for different effects. Chemicals also only include a Developer and Bleach. Most popular Developer is Rodinal but there are better ones out there which can give you better results

That said, if you're just starting out, I would recommend finding a local lab and getting your film developed there at first until you get a feel for shooting film
>>
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>>
I got an 800 ISO film but I realised my camera only has settings for 640 and 1000. What do?
>>
>>2961067
Shoot in manual mode with a meter/sunny16?

Set iso to 640 and use the exposure compensation function(assuming your camera has one) to make up for the difference?

Or just shoot at 640 and live with it. Should be perfectly OK with negative and B&W film.
>>
>>2961067
what camera is this??? that seems very weird

1000 asa is close enough to 800 asa that you can probably just shoot it on that setting without many issues. if you are really concerend just adjust the exposure 1/3 stop brighter in camera or pull it 1/3 stop in processing
>>
>>2961067
well underexposing will yield darker shadows, overexposing will yield softer and less saturated highlights, but it's by such a small margin it probably won't even matter with most films. pick which effect you would prefer if one were to manifest.
>>
>>2961067
what film is it?
itll probably do p fine at 640.
if not, you could just set it at 640 and add a -1/3 stop exposure compensation, or shoot manual and expose 1/3 under what the camera meter advices
>>
>>2961035
To add to this, the temperature thing, you can buy little electric setups which hold each chemical at a specific temp. I was tempted to get into developing color a while ago but I never really got around to it. It's expensive but definitely worth it if you shoot more than 1-2 rolls a month (it's getting expensive to have film developed).
>>
does anyone have experience shooting velvia 100 or 50?
specifically i'm curious about shooting in low-light conditions, shooting people (i've heard skin looks like shit - is this true of all races or are people who say this just talking about whites?), and shooting it in formats smaller than 135 (i'm using a half-frame camera). any advice?

if i cant resolve shit with it at night i'll just toss the remaining half roll I've got and swap in some neopan instead.
>>
>>2961124
can be nice for neon-lighted cityscapes

but the (shadow)lattitude is small and harsh, so expect muddled images with blown (high)lights in general.

It is OK for people in daylight IMO. Worse in the shade. Don't shoot brown people, so can't comment on that.
>>
>>2961071
>what camera is this?
Nikon L35AF
No manual mode

>>2961075
>what film is it?
CineStill 800T (yeah I fell for the meme)
>>
>>2961145
what if I brought a flash with me?
>>
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>>2957550
more disposable-on-portra images

>>2958370
kodak disposables can be opened. put the film leader on the take up spool, close the case again and use the slot on the bottom of the spool to fully wind it.

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>>2961224

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>>2961225

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>>2961227

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>>2961229

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>>
>>2961149

dunno about that particular film roll, but in my experience, expired velvia needs lots of flash power so have that in mind. id meter it at iso25 or something like that.
>>
>>2961146
>CineStill 800T
shoot at 640

film sucks ass, can barely even handle 800 let alone 1000
>>
>>2961146
You can't just set 1000 and -1/3 exposure compensation or something? If not then always overexpose, pick 640. But yeah, fast color film looks like fucking vomit I wouldn't even bother, use black and white next time.
>>
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>>2961124
Why not shoot provia? Don't gotta worry about reciprocity until your exposure goes beyond 4 minutes.
>>
So what's the best film scanner nowadays? My DSLR is a sack of shit. I've got about £200 to spend and will be doing a bunch of 35mm.

Plustek Optic 8100? Epson Perfection V600?
>>
>>2961417
don't get a flatbed for 35mm, if get the Plustek

That said, you will probably still get better results from your DSLR
>>
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>>2961417
Use your DSLR, moron. Spend the 200 quid on an appropriate tripod with an invertable centre column and a Godox Li-Ion flash with a remote trigger.

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>>2961423
Fuck off
>>
FE is officially loaded and I have returned to film, hope you're ready for Superia 200 snapshits of lot lizards.
>>
>>2961431
I think I prefer Superia 400 X-TRA, Superia 200 doesn't have the right tones.
>>
>>2961429
Profound words, they really speak to the depth of your reasoning. I am moved.
>>2961431
pls go, inb4 diabeetus accidentally the whole roll
>>
Kind of wish film users ragged on each other about film brands like digital users did, but on the other hand I kind of don't.

Can we pretend we do for a thread and see how it goes?
>>
>>2961438
Ok
I like Ilford Delta 100
>>
>>2957550
>>2957552
>>2957553
>>2961225
>>2961227
>>2961229
>>2961224
>>2961230
these are exceptional. it's funny that a trash film looks best in a disposable camera.
>>
>>2961440
Real talk here, Ilford Delta 100 isn't actually that great of a film when it comes to its spectral sensitivity. It's great for grain as a 100 film, but the ideal black and white film is Tri-X 400. You can use it as 100 if you like, it has remarkable exposure latitude, but the real reason I brought it up is its spectral sensitivity.

Ilford Delta 100 and Tri-X 400 are very similar, except that Tri-X 400 has a dip in response to cyanish greens, and this darkened color adds a lot more texture to skin in a very pleasing and natural way while still having the red sensitivity to keep it largely smooth, whereas Ilford Delta 100 results in strange and almost bio-luminescent skintones.

There's also the exposure. Delta doesn't have much contrast right out of the camera, it all comes from shooting low and pushing the film after the fact which is dangerous to your shooting style (relying on post processing for your tones), but Tri-X has plenty. It's because Tri-X 400 takes a bit for the exposure to get started before it starts getting bright and then it tapers off when it gets overexposed, but Delta is just a near-linear line. There's no real contrast to that.
>>
>>2961438
Because a roll of film is 4$ and a new digital camera is well over $400. The whole reason why people do that here with digital is that they are insecure with their large purchase.
>>
>>2957949
It goes both ways you know. Some of the best shots you take you forget you shot two weeks ago.
>>
>>2959400
I suggest you wait. 5-10 years ago you could have got something without paying 3 figures but everyone knows about every point and shoot worth a damn at this point, and the geriatrics selling the bulk of them know to look at ebay for a market price. Cheap options for a compact camera right now would be something like the voightlander vito. These types of cameras have lenses that are soft wide open, extremely flare prone, and lack a meter. If they have one, it's a selenium meter that's about 30 years too old and was never that accurate even in perfect light. They are built to be shot at f16, 1/125 of a second, and away from direct sunlight.

I picked up my stylus epic for 25$ on craigslist. I got an olympus 35RC for 5$. There were enough point and shoots made that one will come into your life at a good price if you keep looking.

And just because these point and shoots are plastic with electronics doesn't mean they are shit, it means they are light. There's a reason why a 25 year old L35AF still works just the way it did when it came out the box. You throw a rollei down the stairs and the body dents and fucks the shutter, now you got a paperweight. Don't use personal clumsiness as a con for gear.
>>
I'm going nuts for those Portra Tones my guys.

That strange subdued green gold, that's the ticket. Nobody knows what that color is, it's just good and that's all we know for sure.

We can't even scientifically prove it exists in lab tests.
>>
>>2961438
Not that many brands to rag over these days, are there?


Fuji vs Kodak is like Canon vs. Nikon, it's so old hat nobody cares anymore except for the most neckbeard of neckbeards. And there ain't no Sonys, or meme Fujis or lolympuses to be seen here to keep it a fun rumble :V


Furthermore, I'd also just argue that A) Regular film shooters on average are older, and B) Have a different mentality to taking pictures (why do people care so much about what equipment other people use?) - Ie, while you still see all kinds of GAS people and hoarders n the fim world, I'd gather the worst gearfag type of persons have simply just moved on to the digital arena, because that's where that bleeding edge is for you to jerk over.


Anyway, just because - Agfa Gevaert =>>Kodak/Fuji :D

because RIP in pieces, my childhood
>>
>>2961472
remember when agfa stopped making film and some other company paid to use the name and sold rebranded outdated fuji emulsions as agfaphoto

people still use that and call it agfa lmao the fucking schmucks

also kodak is the better film than fuji, it has warmer colors. fuji tends to drop the ball on blues and greens and mixes them together and i think it's related to japan's lack of distinction between them but kodak's a good american product made by people that know what colors are.
>>
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Liked the light that morning, did my best to straight it out in post.
>>
>>2961491

put that in photoshop and hit auto tone.
>>
Is DSLR scanning a meme? It's incredibly cumbersome and ineffeicient.

What's wrong with a decent dedicated negative scanner like the Plusteks?
>>
>>2961510
>is it a meme

No, not at all. If done properly (even better when mounting an enlarger lens in front of the sensor), one will get superior results from scanning negatives with their DSLR/Mirrorless. Most people simply don't go this way because for them the DSLR scanning method is somewhat cumbersome.
>>
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>>2961506
Maybe it looks a little more stereotypical this way, but I can't say I prefer it over the faded orange. It's certainly not terrible though.
>>
>>2961510

dslr scanning is totally a meme. i've yet to see a passable "scan" from one yet, and people only opt for it because dedotated scanners are so.

fucking.

slow.

or because they already have a dslr, but they don't have a scanner.
>>
>>2958755
fucking stop
>>
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>>2961521
Basically.
>>
>>2959404
>>2959403
Very cool
>>
>>2961517
>mfw your auto tone does different things than mine on the same file

wut
>>
>>2961553
Tried it on the 1000px resize and it looks different from auto-toning the full size. Guess it's from grain smoothing out adjusting the histogram a bit.
>>
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A couple of murky snapps.
>>
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Last one will be the one I fucked up by failing to notice my own damn shadow.
>>
>>2961521
M8, the science is settled on DSLR scanning.
You DSLR scanning denialists are just a vocal minority clinging to your ignorance as if it's some kind of shelter.
The majority of us accept DSLR scanning as fact, and are just waiting for you dinosaurs to die out so that real action on making DSLR scanning better can begin.
>>
>>2961613
Stop shilling this meme and buy a fucking scanner. Do you really think professional photographers get their prints enlarged by using a DLSR?

No they take them to a lab and get a hi-res drum scan.
>>
>>2961620
>closing coal-fired power stations will just make our costs of manufacturing even more uncompetitive with emerging economies
>SUV's just make me feel safer
>>
>>2961613

I'm glad you backed up all those hot opinions with some real proof and not just sub-retarded name calling. Very convincing.
>>
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>>2961668
evritiem

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>>
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Just had a care package come thru from Croatia :^)

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>>2961679

lmao, i knew you would post black and white, and pretty basic black and white at that. let's see some color?
>>
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>>2961690
lmao

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>>2961704

i remember this the first time you posted it. I told you the weak-ass highlights were a dead giveaway. you didn't respond.

it also looks like shit at 100%, so there's that.
>>
>>2961688

Overpaying for expired films. You do realize you've become a meme, don't you ?
>>
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>>2961706
>the weak-ass highlights were a dead giveaway
giveaway for what?
>>2961706
>it also looks like shit at 100%, so there's that.
it's 35mm colour negative film m8 how sharp do you think it gets?

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>>2961706
>it also looks like shit at 100%, so there's that.
Also, I should mention that was taken with a Sigma 14mm at f/2.8, so there's also that.
>as always, feel free to post your great scans, bb

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>>2961707
no
>>
>>2961690
>>2961668
>>2961706
cmon buddy, I wanna see you
>back up all those hot opinions with some real proof and not just sub-retarded name calling
>>
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>>2961620
>No they take them to a lab and get a hi-res drum scan.

Are you really backing up your argument against DSLR scanning by saying professionals use drum scans? Did you really tell anon to buy a scanner and then say professionals use drum scans?

Nobody here is going to go out and buy a fucking drum scanner bud.
>>
>>2959335
what a waste of film...
>>
>>2961765
You're always going to get better results from a dedicated film scanner of the equivalent value of a DLSR+macro lens.
>>
>>2961869
But you can't take that scanner and go shoot with it.
>>
>>2961933
>own film camera
>own film
>own processing tank
>own chemicals
>need a digital camera/scanner so I can shoot
Nice bait m8.
>>
>>2961973
I dont think he's saying that. He's saying that why buy a dedicated scanner if you've already got a DSLR that you can scan with and also use to take photos. Rather than buying an expensive dedicated film scanner just to upload turds to /p/
>>
>>2961759
>waits overnight
>still nothing
Never change, shatbedders.
>>2961869
Conclusively disproven, over and over again. The only limitations on the quality of a DSLR scan are your patience and skill.
>>
>>2961869
This
>>2962000

Lots of people already own decent DSLRs and will probably get better results using them than going out and buying a scanner. If you only shoot 35mm a dedicated 35mm scanner in the $300 range will give great results. But if you shoot MF the price of a scanner that will give great results becomes much much higher. It's not difficult to beat any of the Epson flatbeds if you have a nice MILC/DSLR.
>>
>>2962070
Is the Plustek 8100 as good as DSLR scans?
>>
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I have some photos from a pushed roll of hp5+ , how did I do?

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2/3
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3/3
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4/3 last one
>>
I've been offered a Pentacks 6x7 w/ 90mm f2.8 and 45mm f4. Condition is well used, but "should" work. 90mm has some dust inside. What would you think is a good price to pay for that kit?
>>
>>2962263

how about telling how much were you asked for the kit, dumbass.
>>
>>2962010
>>2961759

lmao, i had more pressing issues. i was out shooting the election night, shooting the protests last night. what photos did you take?

anyway, the burden of proof is on you, kiddo. film scanners are the de facto standard, the status quo. you have the burden of proof to prove that dslr scans are somehow better. i don't have to produce anything, as we've all seen tons of amazing scans from film scanners already.

so far, you've produced one decent scan, the car, and even it clearly doesn't have the detail that a dedicated scanner (or even a flatbed, really) would produce in spades.
>>
>>2961711
So this is what it looks like when you have both digital noise and film grain on the same frame.
>>
>>2962263
ask whether the body has mirror lockup. Early ones don't. Given the massive mirror and shutter assembly in that thing, its something you want, and the body is also worth less if it doesn't have it.

also ask what finder it has. The metered prism is worth more, but only if said meter is still working.
>>
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Anyone have experience with Tetanol Eukobrom?
Thinking of buying a bottle to try out.

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If my developer does 8 rolls before being exhausted, does anyone know how much time I need to add to the dev time as I get closer to the 8th roll? Maybe in Percent? The developer is microfine and the dev time is 10 minutes when fresh.

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>>2962428
isnt it always one minute after half of the developments? so 11 for the 5th, 12 for the 6th etc.
>>
I am looking for a p&s under $200, any suggestions? Was thinking of either a mju ii or Contax TVS
>>
>>2962428
I know that Ilford recommends a 10% increase per film, I'd recommend reading your datasheet though.
>>
>>2962447
What do you need from the camera?
>>
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Would there be any interest in having random /p/hag develop your film? Basically I want to subsidize my film/chemicals. I can do c41 (or ecn-2 xpro if you're into that) and black and white, you could mail me your film+check/buttcoin and I'd upload scans somewhere.
>>
>>2962442
That's what I thought.

>>2962473
That seems a little excessive to me. Wish I could find a data sheet, but finding any info on microfine is quite hard...even in Japanese.
>>
Is New55 Monobath any good?
>>
Hi /p/eople, having trouble here. Pentax KM shutter doesnt work,viewfinder is black cant see a thing, I opened the lens and see that the mirror/reflector is locked. What should I do ? I have no idea at all, as my uncle just gave me the camera few days ago. Very new with film /p/, beginning to take little interest. Pls help. p/s, no film loaded in camera
>>
>>2962535
how much would you charge and where are you located?
>>
>>2962713
> http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_km/pentax_km.pdf

Check your battery.
>>
>>2962718
>how much would you charge
I was thinking like $3-5/roll, maybe a little more if you want fresh chems/high res scans/negatives back or other extra work
>where are you located?
Madison Wisconsin, but I assume this would be through the mail so probably only US service. I don't know how much it costs to mail a roll of film.
>>
>>2962199

you could improve alot by just paying attention to the framing, like 1 & 3 could be way better.

on the second one you could have only took one side of the halo, or something. 4 is ok but composition meh i dont know if the subject are the leaf or the dwarf, but they look pretty neat !
>>
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>>2962428
Update: Wound up adding 5 minutes to the dev time for 15 minutes total. Turned out really well. This was the 7th roll developed with the developer.

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I'm in Japan for the next three months and I'm going to pick up a Pentax 67 and/or Mamiya RZ67. Any suggestions on where to go in Tokyo or Osaka?
>>
>>2962797
thank you, i know these photos could be better especially this is the first time i shot b&w and pushed. I'll need to read up more on paying attention to framing. have any tips on paying attention to framing?
>>
Anybody use a Film camera for underwater photography?
>>
>>2962791
Thank you so much
>>
>>2962817

framing is the number one thing dude in my opinion

well first thing to check is to see if you are cutting some object with the border of the frame, like on pic 3 you see there is a lot of space at the top and you are cutting your subject on the bottom.

on the first one, the litle part of the object in the upper leftcorner is useless and distracting, or the cabin on the bottom right is also cut.

that's just basic stuff but you'll see your picture will be more interresting to look at.

i also try to alin my bottom frame line with an object that is parallel in the compostion,

always difficult to speak english in technical terms i hope i'm understandable.

but anyway your pics are not too over or underexposed, so you are on the right track !
>>
>Fujicolor Industrial 100
Anyone know where the data sheet for that is? Can't find it on Fuji's English or Japanese websites, looked under Consumer and Business as well.

I have an interest in the inner workings of film and how its tonalities are achieved, the concept of engineering a palette out of a series of filters and dyes is amazing to me. It's simply decadent.
>>
>>2962848
& of course Industrial 400.
>>
>>2960561
Can anyone compare how much infrared the film picks up to how much a digital sensor picks up?
>>
Best cheapish P&S's with date imprint? Should I just buy another Mju? Already have Mju I & II, but neither has quartzdate.
>>
tried to buy from an italy seller from ebay, bought a lot and when i was ready to pay, he messaged me "ONLY ITALY REEEEEEE".

what a nationalistic bigot, very unfair!
>>
>>2962673
>That seems a little excessive to me
based on what? Your supreme knowledge of fucking nothing? Your decades of experience as a chemist?

10% compensates for the drop in activity for the developer for up to 10 rolls. It's a good ballpark figure and something for you to know.
Either man the fuck up and process your film or QQ some more.
>>
>>2962937
Remind him that his choice will be the downfall of his own country and the union.
>>
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Still don't know how to get foreground and background in focus, just pretend Daido took it or something.
>>
>>2963012
Do you understand depth of field?
Without tilt/shift you're going to struggle when your subject is so close to the lens
>>
>>2963075
Yeah small aperture big DOF less blur less exposure and big aperture small DOF more blur more exposure, it's just my lens looks a little soft stopped down really far, and opened too far I wouldn't get enough DOF, so I wasn't sure where the sweet spot is.

Hyperfocal distance, that's what I need to figure out. I think.
>>
>>2962848
Industrial 100 is Fuji color 100
Industrial 400 is Superia X-tra 400.

>>2963002
I did, cunt. See >>2962809
10% would have been overkill I think. That would have out me developing for 19.5 minutes...which is why I said it seems excessive.
>>
>>2963078
Well that first one is useful, I have that sheet. But the current Superia X-Tra 400 datasheet has different markings than Industrial 400 according to that one rangefinder forum thread.
>>
>>2959096
whats the point in these? I load my film in daylight and it comes out fine, and when I unload it I roll it all back in. nothing gets exposed
>>
>>2963079
>I have that sheet

what will you do with this research? im interested.

just bought a 10x pack of fujicolor 100, i like its all out colors.. for consumer film it has a pretty nice palette, very similar to pro films.
>>
>>2963095
Just read it, don't exactly have the knowledge or means to use it for anything.

Kind of like How It's Made, it's just neat.
>>
>>2963094

lf film loading, rescuing rolls, etc.
>>
What's the best way to retrieve a leader from a roll of film?

Just bought another SLR off eBay and was testing it's rewind function and wound the leader back into the cassette like an idiot
>>
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First time using film.
>>
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>>2963116

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>>2963115
Looks a little underexposed. See how all the shadows in the flowers are jet black with no tonality?

What you want to do is take your meter reading from the darkest part of the scene when using negative film
>>
>>2963118
>What you want to do is take your meter reading from the darkest part of the scene when using negative film
not the guy, but this helps me a bunch, and it makes plenty sense.
>>
>>2963112
Youtube videos.
>>
Hi!

What effect on the image would cause keeping exposed color negative film for half-year in room temperature before developing?
>>
>>2963140

literally nothing. some guys from the golden era waited years to develop rolls.
>>
>>2963140
probably none at all
>>
>>2963094
It's not for loading your camera silly, it's for loading film tanks or spooling film onto rolls from bulk film.
>>
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shot on film that expired 2006 with a Canon Prima Zoom. obviously arranged in Photoshop.
any feedback?

>>2963115
a bit dark, but nice, looks like a landscape
>>2963012
love the front/back play and contrast
>>2962204
very nice, like the series

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1/3

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Some estate trawler finds. Is there any way to use Instax film on the Polaroid Spectra? The camera appears functional although the battery in the film pack seems to be too low on juice to shoot. Impossible film is expensive as fuck and I hear it's pretty shit.

Also anything anyone could tell me about the Soviet snapshitter in lower left, it's Elicon 35C. There doesn't seem to be much information at all about it online in a language that I can understand. It seems to be working despite old batteries having blown up inside the compartment.

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>>2963395
I love this! want to seem more

posting an unedited one of mine

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>>2962918
Bump!
>>
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>>2957537
I'd like to develop film without all the chemicals and only use household items. Is it possible?

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>>2962812
I was there a few weeks ago and went to some place called Camera Naniwa in Shinshibashi. Its a bit pricey.But a good camera store

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got my first roll of film back today! the scans are just some hasty previews before i send them off...

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>>2963564

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>>
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>>2963565

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>>
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>>2963567

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Lens Aperturef/9.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModeSpot
Light SourceFine Weather
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length43.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastSoft
SaturationNormal
SharpnessSoft
>>
>>2963564
Lose the awful, pixelated backlight and you won't have to send them off. If that's color negative and that's your first inversion, you did well.
>>
File: _B136483-Edit.jpg (686KB, 857x1200px) Image search: [Google]
_B136483-Edit.jpg
686KB, 857x1200px
>>2963568

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
Camera ModelE-M5
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.6 (Macintosh)
PhotographerDaniel R. E.
Maximum Lens Aperturef/3.5
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)86 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution70 dpi
Vertical Resolution70 dpi
Image Created2016:11:12 23:25:48
Exposure Time1/5 sec
F-Numberf/9.0
Exposure ProgramManual
ISO Speed Rating200
Lens Aperturef/9.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModeSpot
Light SourceFine Weather
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length43.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastSoft
SaturationNormal
SharpnessSoft
>>
>>2963569
it is? im not paying for it tho. just mailing it to a friend who has a good flatbed scanner.
>>
File: _B136558-Edit.jpg (521KB, 800x1200px) Image search: [Google]
_B136558-Edit.jpg
521KB, 800x1200px
>>2963570

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
Camera ModelE-M5
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.6 (Macintosh)
PhotographerDaniel R. E.
Maximum Lens Aperturef/3.5
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)86 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution70 dpi
Vertical Resolution70 dpi
Image Created2016:11:12 22:25:49
Exposure Time1/6 sec
F-Numberf/8.0
Exposure ProgramManual
ISO Speed Rating200
Lens Aperturef/8.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModeSpot
Light SourceFine Weather
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length43.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastSoft
SaturationNormal
SharpnessSoft
>>
File: _B136479-Edit.jpg (647KB, 1200x800px) Image search: [Google]
_B136479-Edit.jpg
647KB, 1200x800px
>>2963572

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
Camera ModelE-M5
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.6 (Macintosh)
PhotographerDaniel R. E.
Maximum Lens Aperturef/3.5
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)86 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution70 dpi
Vertical Resolution70 dpi
Image Created2016:11:12 22:25:34
Exposure Time1/5 sec
F-Numberf/9.0
Exposure ProgramManual
ISO Speed Rating200
Lens Aperturef/9.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModeSpot
Light SourceFine Weather
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length43.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastSoft
SaturationNormal
SharpnessSoft
>>
File: _B136513-Edit.jpg (799KB, 1200x1029px) Image search: [Google]
_B136513-Edit.jpg
799KB, 1200x1029px
>>2963574
last one

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeOLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
Camera ModelE-M5
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.6 (Macintosh)
PhotographerDaniel R. E.
Maximum Lens Aperturef/3.5
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)86 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution70 dpi
Vertical Resolution70 dpi
Image Created2016:11:12 22:25:44
Exposure Time1/6 sec
F-Numberf/9.0
Exposure ProgramManual
ISO Speed Rating200
Lens Aperturef/9.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModeSpot
Light SourceFine Weather
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length43.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastSoft
SaturationNormal
SharpnessSoft
>>
>>2963571
Good and flatbed don't belong in the same sentence. It's very unlikely you'll get sharper results from the flatbed. You just need to do something with your backlight. Try to raise the film above the screen to eliminate those pixels. Your shots are good.
>>
>>2963579
thanks for the advice, but an epson 800 must surely be more effective and give better resolution than an 16mp olympus with a kit macro lens stuck in a cardboard box on top of an ipad?
>>
Hi guys, i was thinking about getting a film camera for shooting at night on Friends party/street with em as i'm kinda scared to bring my a6000. I would like to go for a cheap one, to have it with me everytime and treat it kinda like a "beater".
The ae1 program pleased me, can grab it at a thrift shop for 50 Bucks with a 28mm lense , would it be a good alternative ?
+ For which film should i got to shoot low light
+I don't wanna comit too much and develop it myself, will go at the lab first, i was also asking myself if you can ask for a lab to make your film as a wanted iso or you can only do it by yourself.
>>
File: night-web (12 of 14).jpg (2MB, 1500x1001px) Image search: [Google]
night-web (12 of 14).jpg
2MB, 1500x1001px
>>2963642
Film is a set ISO. For example, you might see a film called 'Kodak Portra 400', this film has an ISO of 400. Just as you use higher ISO's in low light on a digital camera, so do you use higher ISO film.

The ISO rating of film is referred to as 'speed'. High speed film would be like 800 or 1600 ISO, where as low speed film would be like ISO 50.

If you're just taking photos at parties, I would suggest buying a camera with flash like a cheap compact camera. The AE1 is a great camera, and if you can get it with a 28mm for $50 that's an awesome deal.

In terms of specific films, it depends if you want colour or black and white. For colour, things like Fuji Superia 800 or 1600 is great for night shooting (however if you're using a flash you can easily get away with using 200 or 400 speed film). Black and white, things like Kodak Tri-X and Ilford HP5+ are your best bet.

Once you've got your head wrapped around all that and you've shot a few rolls, you should investigate pushing film.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
>>
enough with the actual faggotry i have a question

>have 30+ 35mm rolls to scan

should i buy a micro nikkor 55 f3.5 for my d750 and then use my flash as an illumination or buy a $200 film scanner? from what ive seen shooting with a dslr seems like a hastle and a half with regards to getting true colors, is it? Alternatively ive got access to an imacon at my school but ive heard it takes forever and it produces 300mb+ tiffs.

what does /fgt/ recommend?
>>
>>2963757
What scanners have you got your eyes on?

If you want speed but also great quality, check out Kodak's Pakon F135+. They can scan an entire uncut roll in less than five minutes, and the colour software is awesome. They were used in minilabs so they're pro grade equipment.

They range in price anywhere up to a grand or as little as $150, just gotta look hard enough


The Imacon is fucking awesome. It's slow, but the image quality is unreal. If I were you I'd bring something else to do and make a day of it, the Imacon is pretty much unparalleled
>>
>>2963761

i was browsing this article
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/film-scanners

and it seems the primefilm 7200 or the xe might suit my needs/budget

the pakon seems neat but looking on ebay its a bit out of my price range anon

and yeah seems like imacon might be the way, although all the people in there that use it normally scan their medium formats on it; won't it be a bit overkill for 35?

>inb4 all the 120 kids make fun of me for shooting small negs
>>
>>2963777
The Plustek's aren't bad. I own one, and it's a happy medium between speed and quality. If you're not gonna be printing hueg posters it'll be just fine for your needs.

I'd recommend buying one with infrared dust removal
>>
>>2963780
i seldom make prints with 35s but if i did id hardly see myself doing anything bigger than 8x10 or 11x14. according to the specs they come with silverfast which is cool because tiffs. which one do you have? whats the max resolution you can scan on it?
>>
File: snapshit (3 of 3).jpg (1MB, 1009x1500px) Image search: [Google]
snapshit (3 of 3).jpg
1MB, 1009x1500px
>>2963782
I have the 8100, which scans at a maximum of 7200DPI. There's really no point in using it an anything less than that, since a 7200DPI scan takes hardly any time at all. The model I own doesn't have infrared dust removal which is a real pain in the ass, since I have to always make sure my negs are 100% dust free.

I mostly post to instagram and the web with mine, but I've printed at various sizes with it also.

Software wise, Vuescan Pro in combination with colorperfect is the way to do it.

The pic I've attached is a straight out of scanner jpeg

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution300 dpi
Vertical Resolution300 dpi
>>
>>2963780
>>2963777
The plustek is good but takes far longer and requires a lot more space and time to get a decent scan.
If you have a lot of time and space to scan things frame by frame and downscale in photoshop, then it's alright.
>>
>>2963783

so correct me if im wrong, but a 35mm frame is 24x36mm, at 7200dpi would translate to 10200x6800 pixels? Thats crazy, it scans at a higher res than my 24mp dslr shoots!

ill go for the 8200 then once it goes on sale after around christmas time since its got the ir scan
>>
File: IMG_5208.jpg (63KB, 750x1334px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_5208.jpg
63KB, 750x1334px
Bought shutter release cable
Push it in to test it
Won't come back out
Took screw out (pic attached) and it still won't pop back out
When I attach it to my camera it just keeps being pushed in and taking photo after photo

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution72 dpi
Vertical Resolution72 dpi
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width750
Image Height1334
Scene Capture TypeStandard
>>
>>2963791

push ring down and twist it in one motion, should unlock, if not its prob busted.
>>
>>2963792
Yep tried and it didn't come out
Literally broke the first time I used it then, didn't think they could be this shit
>>
>>2963783
Wrong. It doesn't even scan at 7200DPI. Stop spreading misinformation.
>>2963790
No, it only scans around 3200 DPI, but you need to scan at max res and downscale to get it.
>>
File: 2016-11-13 11.31.11.png (629KB, 1589x1298px) Image search: [Google]
2016-11-13 11.31.11.png
629KB, 1589x1298px
>>2963460
What information about the Elikon do you need exactly?
>>
>>2963791
did you try twisting that knurled ring counter-clockwise?
>>
>>2962791
there's no battery inside, is that the reason?
So it must mean that the shutter runs on battery?
Thread posts: 344
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