After a long hunt...

Get the G80/81/85.
It has better IBIS and is also weather sealed.
I have the G7 and no IBIS does suck. Especially with non-perfect equipment

>>2949515
>>2949470
Pressed Reply too early.
First: Go into the /gear/ or /vid/ thread!

Second: Don't buy with kitlens.
If your Budget is small get the 25mm 1.7. it's below 200 bucks.
If your Budget is big get the 12-35mm 2.8. it's parfocal and stabilized, which is awesome for Video.
Also, look into some Vintage lenses. It's Fun as fuck. Check out a nifty fifty for Portrait. And some 180-300mm primes like the Chinon 200mm 3.5. it's a Blast.

>>2949519
Thanks man I will do both of those things, is the /vid/ thread actually popular?

>>2949535
No but be patient you will get an answer eventually. and it survives really long so you can always look it up.

>>2949470
Sorry to bump the thread when you've already been directed elsewhere, the GH5 comes out really soon so if you hold onto your pennies you could get a GH4 for way less than either of these cameras. It won't have stabilisation but you'd be able to buy a decent rig with the money left over which would probably be better in the long term.

>>2949470
I have a G7.
Points are: no Ibis, but ibis on kitlens (very good actually)
Less pricey than the gx8-7, so more lensens.
Btw, they're both good cameras.
I would go with the g7 for more professional shots or studio filming, while the gx8 for street.

>>2949519
Do you shoot m4/3?
Can you suggest some old lenses? I love them, I love the result you can get from.

>>2950031

Yeah, i shoot on a G7
I often rummage on flea markets and my dad's attic.
There are A LOT of good lenses but let me give you an introduction on how to select them.

First, get a fully manual one. With the MFT system having so many electronic-focussing rings, having a real physical focus ring is awesome. Still, have a stabilized workhorse, my suggestion would still be the 12-35mm 2.8 by Panasonic.

Second, since MFT has a strong cropsensor you will not be able to get wide-angle lenses on the market, UNLESS you go to c-Mount but those lenses cant always cover the entire sensor.

A "standard" focal length is one that produces an image with foreground-background relations that humans perceive as normal. That is if the focal length very close, mostly slightly above, the sensor-diagonal. For FF that diagonal is 43mm, for ASP-C it's 28mm and for MFT it's 21mm. That's why you find so many 50mm and 35mm lenses.

A "Nifty Fifty" is a 50mm lens with an aperture of 2.0 or below. YOu can get them for any mount and they serve you well as long-portrait lenses for interviews, or for scenes that have more of an "observation" feel rather than "presence". You can find nifty fifties alsmost anywhere form any brand for any mount. The Jupiter 3 and Jupiter 8 are the most popular, but can cost a lot of money. They also have a clickless aperture ring. You can often get a nifty fifty for less than 100 bucks on any system.

For old cameras with standard film, 24mm was a common wide-angle, so you will find many lenses that you could use as "standards" for you.
Since you'll do video, dust will not be a big problem for you, it will barely show up at all, so try to haggle down dusty lenses. You can check for dust and scratches by shining a flashlight, or the LED-light of your smartphone through the lens and moving it around a bit. Dust and scratches will be clearly visible from the other side. If the coatings are damaged you will see irregularities in the colorful reflections inside.

>>2950079
Part 2.
Remember that long focal lengths exaggerate distance along their axis, so a long focal length shot gives a feeling of people moving a really long distance towards of from the camera. This can be good for walk sequences.
Look into a focal length that you like. Longer focal lengths are harder to stabilize, even for IBIS. Vintage lens shooting highly recommends stabilization anyway. So if you do any monopod, handheld or shoulder-rig shots, the footage is gonna be jittery and shaky as fuck.
135mm, 150mmm 180mm and 200mm are all readily available. Check online videos for chromatic abberations. Stronger cropsensor magnify abberations more while cropping out barrel distortion. If bokeh and bright spots seems hazy and colourfully shining, avoid! The Chinon 200mm 3.5 is neat but I don't own one, only played with it. I have an old Canon 200mm 3.5 which is decent as well, but you get better for the price.