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/film/

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Thread replies: 322
Thread images: 134

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This is the Film General Thread, aka FGT.
This is the thread where you can post your film snapshits without flushing them down the Recent Photo Toilet.
>just posting in the FGT doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot hot sticky loads into boys asses
It is ok to ask about film gear in this thread.

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Antique cameras ftw!

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>>2943766
That's a house, anon.
>>
>>2943769
Joke's on you, It's a pinhole camera projecting onto 2mx5m film.
>>
how did /fgt/'s very first home film developing went? has your first C-41 or E6 development ever went wrong?
>>
>>2943800
Not one failure in a couple hundred rolls of c41. I've had a couple come out with more or less density than normal, but never lost a shot. Despite what you may have read, it's pretty hard to fuck up c41 to the level of "failure". I've done much less e6, but no failures there either.
>>
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how do you guys deal with banding like this? just got an epson v550 and i like it but i get this awful banding, how do you deal with it in lightroom?

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>>2943800
No issues with C-41. The only thing holding me back right now is that my thermometer is dead.
>>
>>2943800

I'm actually putting together a shopping list for B&W dev. Mainly relying on Ilford stuff because why the fuck not, just having difficulty deciding upon a scanner. Epson V370 looks tempting because of its price.

Anyone used it?
>>
>>2943821

thats either a faulty neg or scanner. my v500 has never done that.
>>
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More 35mm.

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All done.

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>>2943821
nevermind, turns out there was some tiny ass speck on my scanner that made it happen
>>
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the local lab didn't have any faster BW film in stock so I'm probably gonna push this to 800, heck maybe even 1600
any of you guys have experience pushing kentmere 100?

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>>2943898
Read the data sheet senpai. I probably wouldn't push it beyond 400. I've seen some stuff around before claiming that it's the same as RPX 100, which didn't push well for me.
>>
>>2943912
Hey bb, >>2943898 is a bait post.
>>
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Ilford 200 SFX

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Hey /fgt/, I just got this lens.
Did I do good ? It's a bit heavier than my previous 50mm f/1.7 and it's just half-stop brighter.

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>>2943843
Creep shot.

>>2943897
Nice colors but boring.

>>2944075
Resize your shit.
>>
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>>2944102
>octagonal aperture
Pls stop, anon.
Patricians comin thru.

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>>2943912
>>2943947
asking honestly here, I've seen some photos online of people pushing it to 400 with very nice results, which is why I'm tempted to push it another stop

>>2944106
how's the 50 1.2? I almost bought a 55 1.2 last week but realized that it wasn't AI converted and would damage my F90x, so now looking for a deal on the 50.

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>>2944106
What's wrong with the octagonal aperture ?
Just asking, I'm not into this gearfaging thing.
>>
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Last one for now. Just love Natura!!

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>>2943800
I fucked up my first C-41 by measuring temperature at the top and not stirring. Still came out perfectly fine.

Gotta remember to wash between fix and stab though. Four-bath fixer is some smelly shit.
>>
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Contacts from all my most recent stuff all done, there's a few rolls of a friend mixed in there too. Starting on some prints in a bit.

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Ektar.

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>>2944150

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>>2944151

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>>2944147

What kind of enlarger do you use ?
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>>2944152

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>>2944155

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>>2944153
23Cii. It does everything a medium format shooter needs, negs up to 6x9, adjustable lamp height, and rolls back to project on to the wall for larger prints. Picked up a whole darkroom set up for 70 bucks on Craigslist.

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>>2944163
I wish my bathroom was large enough to put all the stuff.
How do you manage the dust ?

I started printing my negs a couple weeks ago at my univ, it's amazing.
>>
>>2944105
I found the sizing to be fairly nice.
>>
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>>2944166
>how do you manage the dust
Very carefully. Wear gloves at all times when handling the negs. Keep the bathroom vent fan going. The enlarger is covered with a dust cover anytime it's not in use, extra EL lenses are kept in little bubble cases. I use a can of compressed air to blow off the negs before putting them in, adjust framing and focus, take the neg out and blow it off again for dust that may have settled while moving the head/bellows, put it back and check focus once more. There's always going to be a little speck that make it through, I've gotten pretty good at print spotting.

Here's the first little print of the day. Gonna be making a bunch of 5x7's on FB paper, then selenium toning.

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>>2943800
had 1 mess up with C41 because my apartment was too cold and the temperature of my chems dropped too fast
>>
>>2943898
Don't do it senpai. Don't push it over 400.
>>
Do you develop your paper with film developer?

Using D-76 here with dental X-ray fixer.
>>
>>2944207
Yea, don't do that. Kodak Dektol is 9 dollars. Ilford Rapid fixer is 9 dollars. Surely, wherever you are, you can get 20 dollars of stuff shipped to you.
>>
>>2944216

How do you get rid off your chemical waste ?
>>
>>2944228
B/W chemistry is non-toxic, pretty much all of it is safe to go down the drain in most areas. Color chemistry is the one to worry about.
>>
>>2944234
Fix is full of silver, you snapshitting retard.
>>
>>2944216
But I live in a shitty country senpai.

20 bucks for a little pack of D-76 and 40 bucks for ilford rapid fixer. That's why I use x-ray fixer.
>>
>>2944269
That's why I said "pretty much all" you illiterate fuck boy. In any case, pouring fixer down the drain is not an issue if you are doing only a little processing. The amount of silver in a typical /p/ user's spent fixer is essentially harmless. If anon is processing tons of rolls every week and disoposing of gallons of fixer, then they should absolutely take it to the nearest disposal facility. However, pouring a half gallon of fixer down the drain every 2-3 months isn't an issue. I know your community college photo instructor told you it's a no-no, and that's because they wanted to try and salvage the silver in the fixer from so many rolls and sheets being processed. It's not necessary to call the amount of solution that one person puts out hazardous waste.

>>2944284
Well good luck with that dude.
>>
>>2944296
absolute cancer
>>
>>2944298
He's right though
>>
>>2944302
I'd rather he drank his fix and selenium toner than flush it down the drain
>>
>>2944304
Honestly, don't you have something better to do?

>selenium toner
No one said I was flushing selenium down the drain my dude. Now that would actually be something to worry about, though if you use the toner until it is inert it probably wouldn't be an issue if you dilute it heavily while disposing of it. However I keep it and dispose of it properly.

You want to call me cancer but you can't even have a discussion on waste disposal without resorting to death wishes. Try to keep your composure next time, eco-warrior.
>>
>>2944312
of course not, I wouldn't be here if I had
>>
>>2944166
>How do you manage the dust ?
Bathrooms aren't dusty places anon. Dust settles because of steam. That makes them incredibly easy places to process/clean.
The bigger concern is humidity in a working bathroom.
>>2944163
>negs up to 6x9
tfw bought a 6x6 enlarger telling myself I'd never need bigger.
>>2944304
I would too, but unless your water is unprocessed in your country it's not an issue. Even 2nd world countries have water treatment plants. If you're super paranoid, buy a water filter and distill all your water.
>>
>>2944102

Pentax M is a great range. 1.4 is one of the best 50 mm I've ever used
>>
Is there anywhere to buy decent color film (c41 compatible of course)in bulk for $2~3 a roll?
>>
>>2944329
>tfw I exchanged a 105mm lens to a 75mm because I tought I'd never enlarge 6x9

>>2944350
Kodak colorplus and Fuji are around 2.50 euros a roll, why bother to roll it?
>>
>>2944102
http://oh-hi.info/tech/50mm_compare/?from=undefined
>>
I got into B&W developing recently. However I'm not exactly swimming in money right now so I'd like to be able to get more out of my developer than with the 1:1 dilution. So I have a question: Does diluting the developer to for example 1:3 cause anything else than just extended developing time?
>>
>>2944445

I do 1:100 stand development with rodinal. Shit seemingly lasts forever :O
>>
>>2944445
Why not just buy a thing of Rodinal? Will cost <$20 and last you for years.
>>
>>2944447
Do you use it only one time?
>>
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>Trying to find a good Canon P on eBay for a good price
>They all have some form of fungus in the viewfinder or lens; some are even going for over $300 in this condition
>>
>>2944452
You dump rodinal after 1 use. But at 1:100 dilution we're talking about <10ml being used at a time. I had a bottle for 2 years and gave it away for free because I was moving. I still had half a bottle left and developed pretty frequently.
>>
>>2944452
Rodinal is literally invincible and will probably outlive you and your children.
You generally only use about 3-5ml for stand development. That's just under 100 rols of film.

It stays good forever, my last bottle was pretty much black/brown by the time it was done and still gave the same old results. If you're really concerned about the shelf life then pour the concentrate into airtight smaller bottles and keep in a cold dark place like your fridge.

The biggest problem with Rodinal stand is the time it takes to process film, if you have a small tank and need to process more than 1-2 rolls at a time you're looking at over an hour a pop, plus time to dry. You'll also maybe get better results with other developers but bang for your buck, Rhodey is there for you like he's there for Tony Stark.
>>
So I've been doing a ton of my own B/W developing and printing lately. I think I mostly have the technique down pat.

There's this kind of contest going on now where you can enter artwork to potentially be displayed in one of the major university galleries for a few months. You can even try to sell it if you want. I was thinking I might send in a few prints and try to make a few extra bucks. How much do you guys think I could shill my ~vintage high art analogue prints~ for?
>>
>>2944514
$1,000,001

I berieve in you anon-kun.
It really depends on the size of the print and if you're willing to never sell it again :^) you can add a premium for 1/1 limited edition.
>>
>>2944513
Even doing normal, non-stand at 1:25 or 1:50 will still allow your bottle to last quite a long time.
>>
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OK so for various reasons I need to upgrade to medium format, at least for the time being.
Again, for whatever reason, I hate those hasselblad tier boxes that you stare down on to take a photo, so I need a recommendation for a MF camera more akin to a rangefinder.
I was thinking either the Fuji GA645 or the Bronica RF645 as I'd probably prefer shooting 6x4.5 to get those extra shots per roll, though this isn't a deal breaker and 6x7 is fine too.
Any other recommendations?
Budget is $1500AU or less, so the mamiya 7ii is probably out of my range.

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>>2944155
this one is amazing
>>
>>2944618
What about some texas leica, Mamiya press, or Mamiya 645, 67? You could also get a prism finder for most of these "boxes".
>>
>>2944624
6x9 is too large for what I need, I'd rather the ability to get more shots with 6x4.5 or even 6x7.
I just hate the ergonomics of those TLR's like mamiya RZ67 and co.
Also prefer manual settings so maybe the Fuji GS645S rather than the GA.
>>
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>>2944627
In that case I'd say you're pretty much restricted to the ones you already mentioned. The only other camera that comes to my mind is the Voigtländer Bessa 667.

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>>2944627
>hate the ergonomics of those TLR's like mamiya RZ67.
I'm guessing you mean the SLR's. Most of them have finders you can change to a prism. Hell, most of them have grips that allow the same. >>2941889 and pic related.
Weight and size is their issue, ergonomically they offer mostly the same experience.

6x4.5 is a step up from 135, sure. It's not that big of a step up though, but if you shoot a LOT then it can be worth it.
There's really not much else out there for you m8, you already know what your options are, the rest is up to your own budget and preferences. I think the only cameras unmentioned by now is the Makina 67 and the Bessa

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>>
>>2944631
>>2944632
alright thanks
the makina is a touch too expensive
I'm thinking I'll go for the Fuji GS645S, need manual controls, 6x4.5 because I do shoot quite a bit, and the price is hard to beat.
>>
>>2944618
Just an FYI, but pretty sure the Bronica shoots in portrait orientation.
>>
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>>2944634
Did you try 645? Personally, I'm not a fan of the 4:3 format.

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>>
>>2944641
both the bronica and the fuji shoots in portrait, but most of my photographs are in portrait so it's actually a plus as far as I'm concerned.

>>2944642
I tend to compose quite centrally so I think it'd take minimal adjustment.
>>
>>2944649
Sounds like you found the perfect mf camera for you.
>>
>>2944652
or I'm selling it to myself
either way we'll see how it goes, shooting portra 160 in hong kong.
>>
>>2944436
in the US most colorfilm in stores is like almost $4 a roll.
I want cheaper, dammit.
>>
>>2944516
They'll just be some standard 8"x10" fare, likely framed or mounted on the cheap. I might try to configure two to three related prints in an aesthetically pleasing form and try to pass it off as a collage. I was thinking $50-$100 per photo so as to not be insane and also to cover the costs of these fucking hipsters driving the price of film gear up. I bought my Minolta with two lenses for $60 used, and now that same kit in the same store in the same conditions goes for $150.
>>
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I go into film about a year ago and have been incredibly lucky to find some good equipment locally.
Anyways I thought you guys could tell me about some lenses I have?
Also sold my Canon gear and bought an A7II. Do any of these stand out for use on the A7?

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>>2944954

Wow I'm a tard and didnt post the lenens...

Canon FD:
24mm f2.8
50mm 1f.4 chrome nose
135mm f2.5

Nikon
50mm f1.8 Series E
Nikkor 35mm f2
Nikkor 24mm f2.5
Nikkor 50mm f1.4

Tokina 500mm F8
>>
>>2944956
Anyone here converted a compact camera lens for use on a digital SLR system?

I've got an 80's Hanimex 35 MicroFlash with a broken rewind function. After tearing it apart I realised that the entire lens assembly, including aperture comes off in one piece.

What'd be the next step to converting this? I assume figuring out the flange distance would be a good idea
>>
>>2944956
>>2944970
Didn't mean to reply to you sorry
>>
>>2944956
The 24 2.8 and 135 f2.5 are great lenses on the A7 series. Your 35/2 Nikon is pretty neat as well, sadly I couldn't tell you how the 24 compares against the canon.

The 50mm's will most likely not be better than what's available but if you have no money then they're better than nothing. I never used the old FD/FL 50/1.4 tho.
>>2944970
Figuring out the flange distance would help. It should be possible on mirrorless, but not likely to work on DSLR's.

As much as that retarded A7/XA image is posted often enough, there are some good guides on converting compact lenses to mirrorless mounts.
>>
>>2944956
Since I wouldn't use the 135mm much, I'd opt for a Nikon adapter for the Nikon glass. The 35mm would probably spend most of its time on my camera.

I personally use strictly use an FD 28mm and 50mm on my A7 and love it. Honestly for $100 total you could get FD and F-mount adapters and be able to use all of those lenses.
>>
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Anyone have experience loading two rolls of 120 onto a Paterson reel?
I'm specifically wondering about the feasibility of winding the first roll all the way on, and then winding the second one on until you feel it hit the first one. Is this easy to feel, or is here a big chance of overlap?

Taping them together seems like a major faff, so if possible I would like to just do them one after the other.
Wish the Paterson reels had tabs for separating the rolls like Jobo reels do.

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>>2945242
>Taping them together seems like a major faff
I don't see how it's any more of a faff than peeling the tape off the other reel or self loading.

120 roll is already shit though, I usually take it off the reel, place it into the tank without putting it on the reel and open the bag to remove the paper/tape/scissors etc.
Get yourself some easy to tear tape like medical tape find the edge of one roll and tape round that, move the other edge into line and tape the other side. It should now be incredibly easy to load it on. If you're concerned about kinks once you reach the end of the first roll, use your thumb to push the second roll on lightly.
If you're really worried, take some backing roll, cut to size, tape it and practice in daylight.

Unless you have an insane guy with a pistol to the back of you or your family's head screaming to go faster, work, work then you probably have the extra minute and a half it'd take to do this.
Basically, stop being so fucking lazy tripfag or buy a bigger tank.
>>
As someone who has never used a film camera before, and who had recently recieved a 35mm camera are there any certain things i should be afraid of? And ehst kind of film should i buy for my first shots?
>>
>>2945257
Not really, lighting, depends on the film you're using and the lens desu.

What type of stuff do you want to shoot anon? The more we know the more we can help you select a film.
>>
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>>2945254
I'd use the tape from the end of the first roll, stuck onto the start of the second.
Whatever you suggested sounds like more work for no reason.
But again, ideally I'd just put the second roll in after, I was merely asking if anyone tried this and could tell me if it was easy to tell or not when they hit each other.

I have a tank big enough for two 120 reels, but if I could do 4 at a time and save chemicals in the process I don't see a reason not to.

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>>2945257

for yout first shots buy a cheapass film to look out for light leaks and to make sure all speeds do what they say they do.
>>
>>2945261
Mostly street and landscape. I have a 70-300 and a 28-90.

>>2945266
This actually could be a problem because its 15ish years old and used. Who makes the best cheap film?
>>
>>2945271
c200 fuji is cool, ultramax cool cheap film too. agfa vista.

>15ish years old
thats brand new for what filmfags normally use.
>>
>>2945271
For street, I'd probably choose a B/W film. If your lab has decent prices I'd stick with something simple and high speed like Tri-X/HP5. For colour, I'd pick Portra 400/Superia 400. If you need more sensitivity I'd go for Superia 800/1600.

For landscape, I'd probably pick something like Portra 400 or Ektar. Ektar's a bit slower, but if you're shooting landscape you're likely to have a tripod.

I'm assuming your lenses are probably a bit on the slower side due to them being zooms, so I'd recommend sticking above ISO 200/400 for handheld shots, especially for catching action.
>>
>>2945242
>>2945263
If you haven't already figured this out, I will experiment this weekend and give you an answer. I'm also interested in this. I switched to Kodak Flexicolor c41 chems and I only have enough bleach to cover 2 120 rolls in my tank, so it would be nice to do 4 rolls at a time.
>>
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>>2945509
Please do.
I am in no rush, it'll be a week or two before I have enough rolls to try, I was just wondering.

Also, PSA to anyone printing B/W with a color enlarger; remember to flip the switch deactivating your color filters if your enlarger has one.

I just spent three hours in my kitchen printing, struggling to get enough contrast, and ended up giving up for the night and pouring out my developer. Only after did I think to google the problem and learn about that switch.
>>
>>2945263
>Whatever you suggested sounds like more work for no reason.
That's because you're a lazy cunt and also goes to show why you're probably better off just buying a bigger tank.

I didn't post that just to call you lazy and call you a cunt. I did that because it's an issue you're very likely to run ino.
The reason you'd want to tape the sides is so that when you put pressure on it (when you get past the first roll) that it doesn't kink and catch on the side of the reel. The suggestion of removing the paper is to give yourself more room the changing bag.

This is what I get for expanding a filtered post.
>>
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So I managed to get my hands on some of that Poundland Agfa Vista that everyone raves about.

Wow, pretty impressed with the tones, can't argue for a £1. Might have to stock up.
>>
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Here is a lengthy report on silver toxicity:
http://www.who.int/ipcs/publications/cicad/en/cicad44.pdf

It depends on the sewage treatment plant, but you could possibly be damaging it, especially if it's a small local bacteria based plant.

Silver thiosulphate ions in these concentrations are mostly harmless to anything larger than bacteria.

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>>
Guys, my dads neighbor is selling off a few photography items after his dad passed away. His dad was a refugee from Soviet Europe in the 50s, from Hungary IIRC.
The item I am interested is what looks like a Leica copy with the usual soviet looks, the lens is a 50/3.5, fixed, says "Ymmar" on it. And a red "O", whatever that means.
As far as branding goes I have no Idea, never heard of it before, the top of the body says "Mometta II"
Does anyone know about this camera? Will it be useful for generic walkaround lomo?
Does it worth $80?
thx senpai
>>
>>2945724
>tfw responsible citizen and contact council to ask about disposal
>no-one seems to know in the waste office
>suggests I go down to community recycling centre
>contact government
>suggest the same thing
>take a trip
>guy in recycling centre says he can't take them
>ask him what to do
>I dunno
>go home
>open toilet
>flush
I tried, I tried.
>>
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Ausanon from recent compact thread who recently bought XA in not too awesome condition.

Have since acquired A11 flash from eBay.
Cleaning the outside glass of the rangefinder patch and viewfinder and drawing a purple dot on the viewfinder has provided enough contrast for the amber patch. Will put the first roll through it tomorrow morning.

I replaced the light seals myself in the way that some old camera store wizard advised, the felt i used was very thin but still it feels as though any more pressure would not be good for the hinges, i haven't placed any felt on the body side where the hinge is, should this be an issue?

tl;dr
>is my light seal diy trash? feels tight

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>>2945745
I think that's totally fair enough.

What I did when I couldn't get rid of it was throw a few coins in. The silver precipitated and was replaced by copper or something which I the dumped, throwing out the metal dust into the bin.
>>
>>2945517
>Also, PSA to anyone printing B/W with a color enlarger; remember to flip the switch deactivating your color filters if your enlarger has one.

You don't need to turn them off. In fact, when using a color enlarger for BW you can adjust the color filter to mimic the effect of multigrade contrast filters. It seems that you probably had the settings dialed in for a wavelength that creates low contrast on MG paper. You can turn off the color filters and use gelatin ones, but it's not necessary.
>>
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>>2945822
That's what I meant. I was stupid enough to try to print using the color filters to adjust contrast, but the switch was flipped, meaning the light didn't either.

>>2945560
Thanks for your time.

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A few test shots from a Nikkormat FTn and a Vivitar 135mm f/2.8 lens. Shot on Fuji Superia 400. Levels adjusted in Photoshop, but otherwise no editing aside from cropping.

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>>2945842
woops I forgot my hat, and my Name field

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>>2945843

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>>2945845

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>>2945847

Girl who works at a local casino; she wants me to do a photo shoot with her. I don't have the talent to justify a model, but hey, she's cute, so I'll do it.
>>
>>2945848
She looks like that guy from The Mask, and I don't mean the Jim Carrey movie either.

This vivitar lens is garbage, and you scanned with a potato.
>>
>>2945850

th-thank you for your constructive criticism ;_;

but yes, the scanner I have is just a Pixma MG2200 something or other. I've heard decent things about the Epson film scanners; any recommendations?
>>
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Xpan + Ektar100
>>
>>2945857
absolutely breathtaking.

>>2945854
I use a V550 and I get very decent results from medium format, and decent web results from 35mm. Epson Flatbeds are more than fine if all you are doing is sharing and editing online.
>>
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>>2945858

2/3
>>
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>>2945860

3/3
>>
>>2945859

Medium format sounds nice, but all I have is the Nikkormat and a Nikon N70; 35mm for awhile, I think. Mainly sharing through the Web is what I'm gonna do; I'm pretty awful as a photographer, but I want to improve.
>>
>>2945858
I'm lusting after an Xpan really really badly here. Why must they be so damn expensive
>>
>>2945906
Because they're so sought after now, I remember a few years ago it was 1000 dollars less than it is now, I'm afraid that it's gonna become a meme camera in a few years
>>
>>2945863
Do you have the ability to make bw prints? if you are interested in shooting film that should be your preferred output, especially if you have no way of getting usable scans. If you don't want to shoot BW, you should be shooting digital anyway.
>>
>>2945909

Do you mean, do I have a proper image expander? Nope. It'd be easier to get my hands on a proper film scanner than that anyway; black and white is fine, color is too. I could give you some pretentious spiel about, "Color captures what something looks like; black and white captures what something is", but really I just like fucking around with film. S'fun.
>>
>>2945858
>>2945860
>>2945861
Naicu, I want to try shooting more C41 with my xpan. Really like the tones in the first image.
>>2945906
They're not that expensive. Someone asked about them a few days ago and I gave a guide to buying yourself an xpan for around £700~. It's mostly down to patience and being smart.
>>
>>2945980

xpan at that price is fishy senpai.

thanks for the comments on my Xpan photos.. but unfortunately I need to send my xpan for servicing because the framelines got stuck at 90mm. I didn't know this when I bought the Xpan until I tried on the 90mm.. can't change it back to the 45mm. beware of cheap xpan it might look new and works well but the framelines mechanism are the real menace. The real reason they are sold off so dearly and rare is because nobody will ever want to sell their xpan.. but when you find them for a good price there is something faulty in that you wouldn't realize until later on.
>>
>>2946068
Is that a known problem with the camera? I only ask because on the Mamiya 6 the frame lines from the last lens you had attached stay until attach a new lens and then collapse and uncollapse the retractable lens mount. Have you tried "resetting" the camera somehow (pulling the batteries maybe)?
>>
>>2946072

I don't think it's electronic. it's mechanical. There is a way but I don't wanna risk it.
>>
>>2946068
Nice thing that my Xpan isn't faulty then, huh?
The only complaint I have is that the exposure comp dial is useless because it's so stiff, but that's just the design. The nice thing is that it's incredibly easy to check if the framelines switch or not by taking off the cover to the viewfinder and moving it left to right two switch between both sets.

It's very easy to be a savvy shopper. The time it takes to wait for a cheap product means that you're already aware of what to look for when the time comes.
>>
>>2945858
Those colours
>>
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Hasselblad Xpan

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>>2946337

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>>2946338

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>>2946337
>>2946338
>>2946339
Nice, what emulsion?

Do you often hotswitch between P and standard?
>>
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>>2946341
I can't honestly remember the emulsion, was 6 years ago.

Yes I do switch often (although Xpanners have given me shit for ever using standard).

At the time I couldn't get the panoramic digitalised properly and ended up with half frames like this.

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>>2946346

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>>2946350
This was unintended

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brought my RZ67 and some velveeta to canuckistan. heavy use of reverse GND here for obvious reasons. This is the only one I got with the foreground not mostly black.
>>
>>2946494
God I could only dream of owning an rz
>>
>>2946505
>God I could only dream of owning an rz

da phuc?

they are really cheap.
>>
>>2946509
>>2946505
I got mine for $300 at a pawn shop. it was a pretty good deal considering what it came with. Apparently the prism finder alone can go for that on ebay. I think that's about the price for a body+lens, depending on what you get.
>>
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>>2946494
>>2946505
>>2946515
RZ67 master race reporting in. Amazing cams. The 110 and 50 are stunning lenses. They really don't cost that much right now either.

Took this little sport out for a test run today. Negs are drying now, will scan/post later.

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>>
>>2946569
Really tempted to sell my S2A and get an SQ-A since the S2 is just too damn heavy. How do you like your SQ-B?
>>
>>2946576
I've only had it for a day, but I shot a roll with it this afternoon and had a real blast, compared to how I usually shoot with my RZ. It's very light, fits in my bag easily, and the focus screen seems to "pop" a little more, plus the previous owner had installed a split image focus screen that's very useful. The crank wind is pretty fun.

Overall I'd say there's probably no reason to get a B over an A body. I just got this one because it was a good deal, and I have no interest in using metered prisms for this camera.
>>
>>2944075
Hired model or friend? Either way she is stunning. Great shot composure. Normally I'd criticize the low clarity of the face but it works here.
>>
Konica C35 MF
>$5.22

Did I do ok?
>>
>>2946627
Does it work? If so, hell yeah.

If not, chuck it away or tear it apart and re-purpose it. Compact film cameras are an absolute shitshow to repair. I'm currently using the 32mm viewfinder out of a dead compact as an external viewfinder for another camera, and the lens I'm attempting to re-purpose for a mirror-less system since the entire lens assembly comes off as one piece.
>>
>>2946629

I hope it works, I bought it online from a reputable seller but I have not received it yet.

I want to get into shooting film, I was watching a youtube video where someone recommended a Konica C35, I checked ebay and there was one with 3 minutes left so I made a bid in the last few seconds for $5.22 and won.

I figure I can put a few rolls through it and go from there.
>>
>>2946633
They're a good camera, though after a while you might find that you want more control over your images.

Before you put any film in it, check the light seals. These are pieces of foam on the inside of the back that prevent light from leaking into the camera. If you rub your finger across them and they turn to dust and disintegrate, they'll need replacing. Really easy to replace them, far less annoying than finding that your first roll of film is covered in streaks of light
>>
File: img423.jpg (599KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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Bronica lenses definitely have an interesting rendering. Not quite as pixel peeping sharp as the my Mamiya lenses, but they have some very pleasing background separation.

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File: img424.jpg (625KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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>>
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Kinda weird bokeh in this shot

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>>
>>2943743
Do you take film pictures of film or is it digital?. And do you ever take film pictures digital?
>>
>>2946658
I have no idea what you're trying to ask
>>
>>2946659
man door hand hook car door
>>
>>2946659
Of digital*
>>
>>2946659
I think the fucking moron is trying to ask whether picture "of film" in OP was film or digital?
If not then I have no idea.
>>
>>2946665
Dude just rework the entire sentence it still doesn't make sense
>>
>>2946658

Do you mean DSLR scanning on film?
>>
I have finally understood how to trawl the Internet to find good, cheap, interesting 35mm film and I'm seeing deals whiz past my face with nothing I can do about it.

Hold me /p/

Also why does superia just seem like such an unlikable film?
>>
>>2946668
I think he's trying to ask whether you take film pictures of stuff you took digitally.

No. That just seems like a terrible idea. Your screen monitor is surprisingly low resolution and you would see each individual pixel.
>>
>>2946656
>>2946655
>>2946654
Nice pics, wow does that lens ever separate foreground and background.

It's almost like it's 3d. What lens is it?
>>
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>>2946697
That's medium format for you. The larger physical focal length vs apparent field of vision means you can get telephoto-style subject separation with a 50mm field of vision.

Here's an even more extreme example, taken using a large format camera

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>>2946700
yeah, long focal length AND close to the subject is god. only bigger format can give you wider coverage in such a situation
>>
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>>2946656
Any idea if the 80mm PS "B" version is optically different compared to the normal PS version?

Pic is the 80mm shot wide open, much crappier scans than yours.
>>
>>2946758
Erg, meant 80mm S
>>
File: Untitled-1.jpg (312KB, 1500x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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I've started only having film developed when I've got about 20 rolls, ready to go - because getting back 240-odd frames all at once is awesome. I've started taking these shitty ttv pics with my phone, of some photos I take, so I can order my negs chronologically, when I get them back.

These are from last night, in an Australian dustbowl of a town called Andamooka. It's very dusty and old-timey. It's at the end of a dead-end road and its only industry is opal mining (mostly individuals with small machinery). I was looking for Australiana.

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>>2945906
Pleb-tip
Shooting 35mm in a 6x7 body will get you a similar ratio for much less money.
>>
>>2946760
>>2946758
Nope
>>
>>2946769

you can do this on a mamiya 7 but it doesnt come with a frameline for the panoramic aspect ratio.. Even on a Bronica. Its all about judgement.
>>
>>2946780
I do it every now and then with a RB67.
I put bits of white electrical tape the height of a 35mm roll just off the focusing screen on both sides for basic orientation.

Pic related.
Got some 3d printing hobbyist to make the adapters, paid for it dearly and isn't all that great but works.
Especially the take up spool is very so so, I just recently figured its better to just get 2 sets of the roll holders, and pry open an used 35mm casing, take the film holder inside and cut a slot for the film to grab into.
Ends up being much smoother, since the printed take up spool has very rough inside edges and the film sometimes struggles to roll onto it nicely.
>>
>>2946798
Do you not have a university near you? Pretty much all Universities these days have 3D prints which you can hire out for minimal/no cost
>>
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How come most people seem afraid of C-41 developing? It doesn't seem harder than black and white at all. Whats the deal
>>
>>2946805
More chems, a temperature that's harder to achieve than 20c. That's pretty much it.

I haven't processed C-41 for months because my thermometer died.
>>
>>2946803
The guy was working in the office right next to mine, so I didn't bother looking for other sources.
Charged 12europoors per operating hour and shit is slow.
Generally my 3d printing needs are minimal to none.
>>
>>2946805
Very agree
People should stop being vintage (and/or uneducated) and just use temperature controllers with temperature probes.
Nowadays you can get decent ones for under 50bux and usable chink ones for as low as 10bux.
>>
>>2946805
damn son you need better scans
>>
>>2946818

use the aquarium heater senpai.
>>
>>2946798
can you link the .stl file?
your print looks really shit btw
>>
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>>2944102
i only have the 50mm f/2, is this lens that much of an improvement? I want something for my K1000 that can do decent portraits and is a bit sharper than this
pic related was taken with my 50mm f2

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I only have a shop that develops c41 around me, what would happen if you cross processed pic related?
>>
>>2946697
This is the 80mm PS/B, it's the kit lens for the SQ-B.

>>2946758
The PS/B and PS lenses are the same optically. The S line I think is slightly different. I think the coating is supposed to be better on the PS lenses, but as far as sharpness they are probably the same. As for the scans I just use a flatbed.

Going out this afternoon and evening to test out the SQ more, will probably shoot Acros and Tri-X.
>>
>>2946805
Nothing at all to be afraid of with c41. The only caution I would offer would be to not develop any rolls with important shots on them until you get a feel for the process. Use fresh, cheap fujicolor or kodak gold in a known good camera for the first few rolls to get a feel for things.

>>2946808
>a temperature that's harder to achieve than 20c
It's very easy to achieve with a microwave oven.

>>2946818
>temperature controllers with temperature probes
Total unnecessary complexity, unless you plan to open up a lab and run dozens of rolls per day. When I first started doing c41, I used a water bath. I found it to be unnecessary. The only chem that is somewhat temperature critical is the developer. If you prewash with a few tanks of 102F water to warm the tank, and pour developer in for 3:15, you won't lose enough temperature to matter (assuming plastic tank, never tried with s.s.). The other chems have a window of at least +/-5 degrees.

>>2946823
>use the aquarium heater
Use the microwave. If you are concerned by possible health effects, you shoud probably stick to digital photography or send your film to a lab.

I recently switched from Unicolor kits to Kodak Flexicolor chems. If any U.S. fags would like a write up of what chems to buy from UniquePhoto and an overview of how to mix/use, let me know.
>>
>>2946845
I don't see any aperture shape in the bokeh, so I assume this is a wide open shot. The sharpness on the leaf in the upper left corner is very good for wide open. I think you are going to be seriously disappointed if you expect to find anything sharper, wide open, in the 35mm film format. You will reach the limits of the film itself. Move to medium format if this level of sharpness isn't acceptable.
>>
>>2946847

http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/using-eir-aerochrome-infrared.60287/
>>
Name some 6x6 cameras that aren't the mamiya 6, a tlr, or a blad knockoff
>>
>>2946856
not disappointed at all lol, thank you for reassuring me my lens is just fine. Is 35mm film subpar in general for good portrait work?
I wanna go beyond high-end snapshits like this and methinks the k1000 won't cut it for that kind of photography. Is it prudent to even stay with film if I want to go that route? thanks again senpai
>>
>>2946852
>Total unnecessary complexity
I can imagine, I'm an engineer I can't help it.
>>
>>2946867
Voigtländer Bessa, from before it was owned by Cosina. 6x6 folding bellows camera, isn't the Mamiya 6.
>>
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>>2946867
By blad knockoff do you mean cameras that are essentially copies of Hasselblad designs, or all 6x6 modular system SLRs? There are tons of cameras that look superficially like a blad, but are actually very different.

The Rollei SL66 has bellows focusing with tilt movements and reversible lens mounting. The 6008 has a motor drive and multi-zone metering.

The Bronica S and E series cameras have a unique focusing system with the focusing helical built into the camera body. The E series add electronically-timed focal plan shutters and TTL metering, but also work with leaf shutter lenses. The Sq series has modernized ergonomics and uses electronically-timed leaf shutter lenses.

Even cameras that are overall very similar to blad designs typically have some notable differences. Hasselblad steadfastly refused to make simple ergonomic refinements for decades, like darkslide holders, decent focusing screens, instant return mirrors, separate shutter speed and aperture controls, etc. So older blads have a lot of ergonomic quirks compared to similar-aged cameras from other manufacturers.

Then there are the cameras that look like big 35mm SLRs, like Pentacon 6/Praktica 66/Exakta 66 and Kiev 6. And there are probably hundreds of models of folding cameras that came in 6x6.

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>>
>>2946867
Bronica S2, EC and SQ series, Rollei 66, 6006, and 6008, Pentacon Six (Or Kiev 6c/60 if you're a turbo poorfag.), and the Fujifilm GF670/Voigtlander Bessa III which can alternate between 6x6 and 6x7 frames.
>>
Why is my film bw when I scan it? When the lab did, it was in colour
>>
LF fags only on this one

Are there film holders better than Fidelity-Elite? I used a couple and loved them.

Also best ultrawide for 4x5? I was looking at the Nikkor SW 75 or the Super Angulon 72. Has anyone shot on the Nikkor? How does it handle movements?

Thanks in advance.
>>
What do you guys think of the Hasselblad focal plane bodies like the 100,1600, and 2000?
>>
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zenit 122

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>>2947005

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>>2947007

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>>
>>2946864
thanks, mate :)
>>
>>2945835
looks like a lineup to a popular club.
>>
>>2946819
not my pic but i kinda liked the lofi, wide open aperture look.

>>2946818
>>2946808
The temps arent hard to reach at all guys. People don't do c41 because information like this is parroted too much
>>
>>2946654
>>2946655
>>2946656
Nice pics!
>>
>>2947093
Digital?
>>
>>2947094
Nope, pretty sure these are taken with the Bronica Zenza medium format camera
>>
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Place was infested with out-of-towners wielding their plastic junk canon dslrs with junk plastic 8-710mm zooms. Didn't see one Sony Nikon Fuji. Just a hundred soccer moms and faggots with canons. And me...with a 1958 Ricoh Diacord L. Fuck 'em all.

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>>2947127
Learned a valuable lesson on this shot concerning tlr's, parallax and fence posts. Cropped out the error.

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>>2947131
Wheeewww Ektar...

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>>2943821
got that problem its just some small dust or mark on the calibration area of the plastic adapter

The small rectangle on the tops area check you should be fine
>>
>>2943898
never go further than three levels
>>
>>2945748
How effective is the purple dot? I might do that to mine
>>
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>>2947147
Actually extremely effective, I was shocked just how much difference it made, especially in low light.
I saw a bunch of people saying they were using black or red markers, I thought it would make more sense to use a colour opposite to the rangefinder patch and boy I was right, took several attempts and removing with lens cleaner.

You can see just how distinct the two CAPTCHA logos are.

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>>
>>2945748
>>2947165
I put a small square of scotch tape colored black with sharpie, and it works a lot better while also not messing up the viewfinder.
>>
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>>2947135
Cool it on the saturation Ken. Ektar is a nice warm film with saturated orange and reds, no need to boost it in post.

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>>2946667
Maybe you don't speak voodoo.Fucking Incoherent fuck.

He's asking if its scanned in or the photo is taken from another camera and uploaded. He could also be asking if you can get the quality of a film camera with digital.

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>>
>>2947173
I lol'd at the ken on the dial. I have no excuse for the excessive saturation. I didn't add any, but I certainly needed to scale it back.
>>
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got a roll of fuji natura 1600

first time using a mju ii too

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>>2947165
>>2947172
Fuck, that's genius. Thanks. I'll try it out in a bit and see how it goes.
>>
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>>2947188

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>>2947191
it's hard to tell if you correctly turned off the flash in the dark.

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>>2947192

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>>2947193

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It worked great
>>2947165
>>2947172
>>
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>>2946852
>If any U.S. fags would like a write up of what chems to buy from UniquePhoto and an overview of how to mix/use, let me know.

Yes absolutely, that would be great.
So far I've tried Tetenal powder C-41, Tetenal liquid E-6 kits and those have worked well. I'm about to try the Tetenal liquid C-41 kit tomorrow but I keep seeing recommendations for Flexicolor. A guide would be fantastic.
>>
>>2947085
You're right. Just let me turn up the thermostat in my house so I can sit in 25c for a few hours.
It's more that I can grab water from one of the many bottles in my house and use 20c straight away. C-41 requires heating, Things just don't sit at an ambient 25c or higher. A simple thermometer and third world features like running hot water will solve that for you.

That information isn't parroted, it's a fact. Most people's homes will be in the 20-22c range and most people can keep water sitting around there without an issue.
What will help you to realise this is to take a moment, remove the autistic reasoning from your own mind and empathise with those situations.
>>2947127
>doesn't even mention daddy Contax
baka son
>>2947177
the ironing
>>
>>2947172
>>2947200
Then you no longer have an overlapped image, and instead have some weird square shape split image type focus. Sharpie removes easily with any weak solvent like lens cleaner, it doesn't "mess up" anything.

Purple marker only increases contrast and if i could be bothered being even more precise then you wouldn't even see the purple colour at all unless you looked at the finder from a sharp angle.
>>
>>2947131
>Giant blob of smudge
>Tiny sharp bit at bottom

I don't think this floats anyone's boat.
>>
Why is my film bw when I scan it? When the lab did, it was in colour
>>
>>2947300
You have your scanner set to black and white negative / greyscale.
>>
Guy on a facebook page made this neato thing. Holga 120 with a lens from an old folding camera. Full aperture control from f2.9 to f16, shutter speed from 1/500 to 1 second with full flash sync with the internal flash.

Super neato and looks like he did a good job of it. I'll post a couple sample images, the lens only properly covers the 35mm image circle so you get an interesting vignette effect
>>
>>2947330
forgot image
>>
>>2947332
>>
>>2947335
>>
>>2946872
>>2946910
>>2946927

The Exakta 66, Kiev 6/66, and the Mamiya 6 are similar to what Im looking for. I dislike dirty chrome, is all.

I like the bellows tilting/backwards mounting lenses of the Rollei too.

Thanks, anon!
>>
>>2947313
No, it isn't
>>
>>2947332

holga mods are a thing now.

http://www.holgamods.com/holgamods/Main.html
>>
File: flexicolor.jpg (58KB, 1190x535px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2947214
Here is a copy of the UniquePhoto invoice. These items + bottles + water are all thats needed.

Take the developer/replenisher kit and mix according to instructions. You will have 5L of replenisher. To get a working solution you add some starter and water. There is a bit of math involved with the amount of starter and water to add, but when finished you will have 6.5L of working solution. There is enough starter in the bottle to mix up 5 of the replenisher kits. I use 2L Pepsi bottles for storage and squeeze any air out. Some people use the working solution one shot. I develop a roll and pour back into the bottle. I have 8 rolls through the first 2L bottle with no apparent density change. I'm hoping the developer keeps as well as the Unicolor does, but that's an unknown right now. Chems are 1 month old and so far so good.

Cont.

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>>2947506
Processing unit F2 comes with 2 plastic jugs containing the bleach and the fix. These jugs are meant to be shoved into a minilab of some sort, so you have to use scissors and cut a hole in the jugs and transfer to other bottles. The bleach jug has 1L in it and it is to be used full strength. Bleach is regenerated with oxygen, so it is fine to put it in a half-full 2L pepsi bottle. Shake the shit out of it with every use to allow the oxygen to do its thing. I've read that this 1L of bleach should do at least 300 rolls.

The fixer jug is 2L and is to be mixed 1:1 with water. So 2 Pepsi bottles worth with the air squeezed out. I do not have any idea at this point what the yield is on the fix. I'll just keep using 1 of the 2L bottles till it fails and then open the second bottle.

The final rinse makes about 1L of solution. The bottle from Kodak is only about 1/4 full. I thought it had leaked but its just the way they made it. I will add that this final rinse vs unicolor's stabilizer leaves the film absolutely spot free. No more white crusty spots!

Cont.
>>
>>2947518
The following are the times I am using to process and may not match the standard charts, but seems to be working well:

I run several tank fulls with 102F water to warm the tank. Developer in at 101F for 3:15, stop bath at ~100F in for ~30 sec, several tank fulls of ~100F water to rinse, bleach in at ~100F for 4:00, several tank fulls of ~100F water to rinse, Fix in at ~100F for 4:00, lid off, rinse for 3:00 at ~100F, final rinse at room temp for about a minute, shake reel, hang to dry.

I started using stop bath after development so I could add a rinse step before the bleach hoping to extend the life of the bleach. It isn't otherwise necessary.

If any of this is unclear, just ask questions. All credit for this goes to a few posters on apug. The hardest part of the whole operation is figuring out what to buy and where to buy it from. Hopefully this will help someone.
>>
File: 000078160009.jpg (1MB, 1545x1024px) Image search: [Google]
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File: Berlin Memory.jpg (2MB, 2100x1536px) Image search: [Google]
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started playing with my old childhood camera, Canon Prima Zoom 76

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>>2946842
Pretty sure those are the one you can find from thingiverse. At least mine look pretty much the same and those are what I used.

The supports are completely shit in the takeup spool btw, I fucked up the print many times and had to really spend time tinkering with it and making my own.
>>
File: __7_0039.jpg (1MB, 1916x2000px) Image search: [Google]
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Gonna post some of a roll that I shot last week.
1/17.

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>>2947792
2/17

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>>2947793
3/17

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>>2947794
4/17

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>>2947795
5/17

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>>2947798
6/17

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>>
>>2947792
>>2947793
>>2947794
>>2947795
>>2947798
>>2947800
Pls resize, those definitely don't need 2000px+. Also what's with the weird as fuck inconsistent crops?
>>
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>>2947800
>>2947802
light leak
7/17

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>>2947812

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>>2947813
9/17

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>>2947814

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>>2947815
11/17

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>>2947816
12/17

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>>2947818
13/17
>>
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>>2947820
14/17

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>>2947821
15/17

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>>2947822
16/17

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17/17

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>>2947813
>Didn't center it
You had one fucking job, Orlandobro.
>>
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>>2947828
Light leak fucked it. Not that it was a great photo in the first place. It's on the walkway between the science centers parking garage.

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>>2943844
Is this Fairmount Park in Riverside, CA?
>>
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Couple more snaps from the Bronica.

>>2947838
No, this is in Florida.

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Tried an intentional light leak that turned out pretty nice

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>>2947506
>>2947518
>>2947527

Saved! Much appreciated, I will have to give that a try next time.
>>
>>2947792
What the fuck is wrong with you?
If you're going to post that many photos you should have made a separate thread, but please don't make one for these absolute shits.
>>
>>2947944
How about you stop getting lippy with someone posting content and post some of your own shit you whiny cunt
>>
>>2947946
I post my shit all the time, but not to the point where it overruns a thread.
Stop being so fucking self centered and read a book about composition. Your pictures are a waste of emulsion.
>>
Would anyone like a quick write up of the zone system?
>>
>>2947951
not me mate I just don't like people being shitty without any constructive reason

>>2947952
yeah why not
>>
>>2947954
I wasn't being shitty for the sake of being shitty.
It's just really annoying when someone takes up over a tenth of the image limit with nothing snaps.
It just becomes noise that ruins the thread.
>>
What's a good ballpark price I should sell Sensia II 100 24exp rolls for? Want to offload them.
>>
>>2948049
Charge $0 and send them to me. I'll pay shipping.
>>
>>2947954
I'll do it when a new thread is up.
>>
Any recommendations regarding developers to use with HP5+?
Thinking about D-76 or HC-110 as I didn't like the result in Rodinal.
>>
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>>
So today I learned a little bit about filme photography and I was curious about what would happen if you chose the wrong ISO for the film you're using.

Do you guys have any pictures taken like that?
>>
>>2948180
I don't get it.
Sure, sometimes the shutter goes off by accident, but how did you also resize and post this garbage frame accidentally?
>>
>>2948251
You can make up for it by developing for more or less time than normal.
This is call pulling or pushing the film. Pushing being when you shoot it at higher ISO than what it says on the can, and pulling being lower ISO.
You can find plenty of reading material by searching those terms.

Of course, if you don't make up for it in development it's just under- or overexposing.
>>
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Correct me if I mixed this up, but if the ISO is set higher than the films ISO then the picture will be underexposed; and it'll be overexposed if you set the ISO to under the rated ISO.
Pic related, pretty sure this was Ektar 100 that I accidentally pushed to 400.

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>>2948269
>Correct me if I mixed this up, but if the ISO is set higher than the films ISO then the picture will be underexposed
That is correct.

As stated in the post above, however, unless you added extra time to the development you didn't actually "push" it. Just underexposed it.
>>
>>2948262
It's worth noting that a correctly pushed or pulled image still won't look the same as if the film were exposed at its rated ISO. Depending on the type of film and how much you push or pull, you will see changes in grain, color reproduction, and dynamic range. Some films are much more tolerant than others.
>>
>>2948262
>>2948311
Oh that's cool. Idk, I just thought it would totally mess up the picture.
>>
How large, generally, could I print 35mm Ektar 100?
>>
>>2948521
at least 70x140
>>
>>2948526
>>2948521
I now realise I was too vague.
How large could I print 35mm Ektar 100 before the grain starts becoming noticeable?
I was thinking perhaps 11x16~
>>
Cheapest site online to purchase a 5-pack of Portra?
>>
>>2948583
Amazon.co.jp
>>
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Delta 100 I think.
I'm moving soon and will have to give up my darkroom. How terrible are changing bags? Are there good ones and bad ones?
>>
>>2948654
You won't be doing any enlargements in a changing bag, that's for sure. But for developing, they're Just Fine. Be careful with the scissors however, don't wanna puncture the bag; and you'll want to put the loaded spools in the can with the lightproof lid or funnel on tight while loading the next one just in case.
>>
>>2948654
Slagelse?
>>
>>2948719
Ah, det skulle jeg have set. Har brugt mange timer på at vente på stationen. Held og lykke med fremkaldelser fremover.
>>
>>2948725
Have you finally tried to edit your photos, or have you changed your scanning routine?
This looks better than your usual stuff.
>>
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A couple of snaps on Superia 400. Souped with the Tetenal liquid kit and scanned with a PrimeFilm XE.
>>
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>>2948258
Idk man, I know it's not a "good" photo, I took it with a $4 point and shoot but I think it would look alright in a series in a little book or something. We just see different things in it, no big deal, I appreciate you bringing me back down to earth a bit ha.
>>
My only question is: How much should I kill myself?
>>
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>>2948915
It's a prompt for advice. I anticipate the degrading comments, and I want to know where I'm going wrong here.
>>
>>2948916
One more.
>>
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>>2944163
Can I ask you an LF question?

I've been cutting my own 5x4 negs from 10x8 EB/RA Carestream x-ray film stock. Recently I also acquired a Jobo 2509n reel plus an appropriate Jobo tank for it. Every few negs in the past few batches of cutting come through development with splotches.

I'm convinced it's either uneven development in the tank (inadequate agitation), light leak in the holder, or spending too long cutting the film under the red light. Have you experienced this or seen it before? Never had this happen with medium format or 35mm.

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>>
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the smc takumar 50mm f1.4...worthy upgrade from the pentax m 50mm f2? or is that stupid?
pic related taken with 50mm f2

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>>
>>2948946

they are cheap. get it anyways.

>>2948921
like that one.

the other ones are meh/10. it seems you can do better.
>>
>>2948929
You need to make sure the film is submerged in the developer quickly and evenly, if it splashes on one part first, even just a second or two before the rest gets wet, you will have uneven developing.
That's what's causing this.
If you insist on poorfag developing with a spoonful of chems rather than enough to cover the whole film at once, then I would suggest presoaking your film in water, to mitigate the effect.
>>
>>2948915
This would have been really cool had you composed it better for that reflection of the person.
>>
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Tri-x is one hell of a drug

1/3

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>>
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Im addicted to Tri-x.. srsly senpai

2/3

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>>
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any tri-x anonymous i can attend to?

3/3

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got this on loan from a friend, tried some street shooting with flash earlier this evening but damn the flash takes loooooooooong to recharge, is this because I used crappy Vietnamese batteries or is it just always like this?
also I see an aperture scale in the viewfinder, is there anyway to now what aperture the camera chose?
anyway it's kinda fun going out into the streets with a pns but I have yet to get the film developed, my friend haven't touched this for so long so dunno if it's even gonna meter right, at least the flash still (sort of) work

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>>
>>2949113
>yfw that's the photographer and he stood in the way
>>
>>2949095
Ah shit, I think I know what's happening. The Jobo drum I have has to be shaken to get the liquid to enter the actual tank, from the separated chamber above. I should invest in the normal cap, and stop using the one suited to the CP2's arm.

Thanks man, this really helped me out! Never had this issue before because I've always used equipment that matches the task.

>>2949396
Nah, that's my pal wandering into the shot.
>>
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Hello,
What do you think of this picture?

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Camera-Specific Properties:
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4MB, 3088x2048px


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Camera-Specific Properties:
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>>
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[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
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Thread posts: 322
Thread images: 134


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