Lens advice

I recommend a good zoom. Use it as your main daytime lens, then switch to your prime(s) at night. This is really the best way to get the most out of your low light performance.

Since you've got Micro Four Thirds, start trolling thrift stores so you can pick up some old glass too.

I have an E-M5 mk2. I use an m.zuiko 25mm as my basic prime lens. It's very easy to use, and practical.

However, I've really been getting into vintage lenses. I'm gonna go pick up a Helios 44M-4 today and take it out for shooting tomorrow. I have no idea what results I'll get.

One thing to keep in mind with M4/3 cameras and old lenses is that the focal length is doubled as the sensor is half the size. This makes a classic 50mm lens act like a 100mm. It can be halfway solved with focal reducers, but they're not ideal.

>>2926273
The 12-40 and 12-35 zooms on m43 don't do it for me. They're pretty fat and expensive, but still not fast enough to shoot in a dimly lit church or provide any meaningful subject isolation, and the tele zoom range stops a bit short of the point where it gets interesting for portraits.
Lolympus is making a new 12-100/4 zoom soon, maybe you should wait for that.

My holiday meme43 kit is
>25/1.4
General purpose; the e-shutter allows me to shoot f/1.4 in broad daylight if I want subject isolation.
>12-32mm pancake zoom
It's slow, but I find that a 17mm doesn't help 2/3 of the time when 25mm is too cramped, and 12mm primes are damn expensive. Anyway, at $120 and 70 grams, who would complain.
>7.5mm Samyang fisheye
A gimmick lens, but I get some use out of it and it's not that big.
>70-300mm zoom
Having a 600mm equivalent lens often gets me interesting shots even if I'm standing in the same spot a million other tourists did. The lens is a piece of shit though, I really need to replace it with the 75-300.

>>2926277
>>2926280
I have a dozen manual lenses from some crappy Soviet RF glass to SL-series Voigtlanders, and they all suck dick on m43.

2x crop turns everything into an awkward telephoto, and almost no lens can handle the pixel density (a 16 MP m43 sensor requires more resolution from the lens than a 5DSR). And screwing around with peaking gets old really fast, compared to instant touch-focus with native lenses.

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>>2926273
>>2926280
I have OM-D E-M10 and I've used it with a bunch of adapted lenses. Soviet M42 lenses are pretty okay, but the doubled focal length limits their usefulness. Pic related was taken with a Helios 44M-4. Focusing is bothersome since it takes a while to find the sweet spot, and you can't trust the lens' own scale because it shifts a bit, which also means you need to figure out where the infinity point is since the lens will focus beyond it. Focus peaking at least on my model is a meme that has only limited utility value, it gets completely inaccurate beyond close ranges and in visually busy scenes. Avoid the tempting 28mm Takumar, its edge performance is utterly abysmal on M4/3, also some 135mm's display pretty bad chromabs on it.

So far the best adapted lenses that I've found are Minolta MD glass, 2.8/28, 2/45 and 5.6/300 were all pretty great. Especially the 28mm soundly beats the Takumar as a poor man's standard glass.

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>>2926302
>MD 2.8/28 as a poor man's standard glass

Ugh. Even compared to the kit zoom you're trading variable focal length and AF (and probably sharpness too) for just one stop of aperture. And Sigma's 19mm/30mm can be found for like $100.

I have an oly pen epl7 that I use as a daily snapshot and holiday camera. One of the main reasons why I don't buy m43 lenses is that the lenses cost even though they are smaller, cost a lot of money. It's hard to find a $200 50mm equivalent m43 native lens while a 50mm equivalent of a Nilon crop like 35mm 1.8G can be had for $125 used.

>>2926302
I have m5ii plus a canon nfd 50mm, and I'm still trying to find ways to make it work. Nailing focus is difficult and I can only do it halfway consistently by enabling both focus peaking and magnification. When it does work it's beautiful, which gives me motivation, and twiddling with the quality metal focus ring is fun. I should have a Lens Turbo II arriving from China any day now, hoping that will make the optical flaws less evident.

>>2926283
willing to post any shots from the fisheye? recently got one, haven't used it much.

>>2926273
Did you know that FULL FRAME will take your photos to the NEXT LEVEL? The next lens you should buy is a Nikon D5

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>>2927828

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>>2927866

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>>2927884

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>>2927886

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>>2927887

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>>2927891

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>>2927895

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>>2927568
B&H prices:
>Nikon 35/1.8: $200
>Panasonic 25/1.7: $250
Sure, it's 25% more expensive, but you get image stabilization.

Also, you cannot go faster than f/1.8 on Canikon crop cameras without paying out the ass for a full-frame lens.

>>2927903
>Sure, it's 25% more expensive, but you get image stabilization.

What are you saying? The Nikon has image stabilization while the Panasonic doesn't have.

>Also, you cannot go faster than f/1.8 on Canikon crop cameras without paying out the ass for a full-frame lens.

You can get a cheap Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI lens for cheap.

>>2930480
And you can get a cheap CC/cinema 25 0.95 for cheap. What's your point?

>>2930480
>The Nikon has image stabilization
No, it doesn't. Nikon does not make any image-stabilized primes that aren't long telephoto or macro.
>while the Panasonic doesn't have
E-M10 body does.

>You can get a cheap Nikon 50mm f1.4 AI
You need a D7xxx or better camera to use AI lenses without horrible pain. And even on that, the OVF doesn't show proper DoF and makes focusing difficult.