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/film/ General Thread - Expired Film Edition

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Thread replies: 334
Thread images: 99

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This is the Film General Thread, aka FGT.

>just posting in the FGT doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot fresh film.

This is the place to post your film photos, without flushing them down the Recent Photo Toilet.
It's OK to ask about film gear in this thread.
>>
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Since the other thread is dead, I'm going to repost.

Not sure about Velvia 100F. I think I'm going to like Velvia 50 better. Got two rolls of it I'm gonna shoot during the weekend.

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>>
What should I do. I've acquired 80 rolls of ten years old expired fujicolor 200
>>
>>2924084
In my experience, Velvia 100F is just very...sterile. It is still a more saturated slide film, but it doesn't have that vibrancy that 50 has, but at the same time it doesn't have enough characteristic to really stand out like a lot of other films. It's just perfectly adequate.
>>
>>2924091
>I've acquired 80 rolls of ten years old expired fujicolor 200

shoot the fuck out of it. shoot it at box speed. after first roll, see if it needs more exposure (rating it at iso 80 for example). im betting it wont need it, film is like that, super cool, immortal and shit.
>>
>>2924092
I think it is more useable in scenes with lots of snow, but then again, I would rathee shoot Portra 160... as you said, it's an OK film. I think it lacks some sharpness, but that might be my focusing which is a bit off. Focused this without glasses on.
>>
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is buying a JOBO a good investment?

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>>2924099
That depends on the price and how much film you process. If you process a lot of film, it will be cheaper in the long run. Right now I pay $10 per roll of 120 film I get developed. I'm looking into doing it myself.
>>
>>2924099
what exactly does this do?
>>
>>2924111

saw a jobo on sale on ebay for a very good price but without the filling/draining system on it.. even so it wont cost much to buy them.
>>
>>2924114

an equipment for lazy photographers who likes to shoot film and dont want to spend time and money to process their films at a photolab.
>>
>>2924091
Buy some C-41 chemicals, 5l kit lasts you 100 rolls, a digital thermometer, and a big old bucket.
>>
>>2924121
no I wasn't asking about that (I develop c41 and B&W myself at home), but more about the Jobo lift thingy
>>
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Not enough decent shots to make a thread of it, but I wanted to share a few shots from the Agat 18K.
Really enjoyable to use, and the quality of the images were better than I expected.
A bitch to scan though.

1/3

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>>
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Vignettes a bit wide open maybe.

3/3

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>>2924211
>Not enough decent shots to make a thread of it
Not even one.
And you posted these shitty snaps already.
Put some effort into it for fucking once.
>>
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>>2924220
That's a bit harsh, I like all of these.

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1/3
>>
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>>2924247
2/3
>>
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>>2924249
>>
>>2924095
You can talk about preferences in terms of look, but one thing Velvia 100F (and all current Fuji slide) most certainly is, is sharp. Focus with your glasses next time son.
>>
>>2924253

lookedbetterasthumbnail,jpg
>>
>>2924099
sure

for B&W it is great if you are lazy like I am they are great. I don't have a Jobo but I do have a roller for my film tanks that lets me walk away it it agitates itself.

for Colour, really great. colour can be done by hand (I do it) but these are a godsend.

>>2924121
also photolabs are getting hard to come by, I started doing my own colour because sending film across the country is a pain in the ass and expensive in shipping. Colour kits are cheap and easy to get.
>>
mamiya c330 or bronica sq-a?
>>
>>2924474

bronica. but get a nice and humble tlr too, like a yashica mat.
>>
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So the school i work at gave me this to play around with indefinitely. Are there any quirks I should be aware of (like the risk of jamming a hasselblad if you do the order of things wrong)? I don't think it has been used since Provia 100 went out of production...

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>>
Is hasselblad 503cw worth buying? What about film avalaibility?
>>
>>2924497
Depends on price. Lots of film available.
>>
>>2924475
Alright cool. Curious, why the Yashica too?
>>
>>2924561

because a TLR is a thing of beauty.
>>
>>2924480
They're pretty bulletproof. Nothing really odd about them apart from the fact they're fucking massive
>>
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>>2924668

shifted red into yellow and lowered red luminosity.

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>>
>>2924677
i prefer original
>>
>>2924668
>>2924677
Australia? Where abouts?
>>
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>>2924572
Cool, cheers! I can't complain since its a free camera to play with...but a WLF would be reaaaaalllllly nice. The prism makes shooting handheld awkward as fuck.

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>>
>>2924095
I'm sure that, if you're looking at it with crazy magnification, it's not quite as sharp as 50, but Velvia 100 is still about as fucking sharp as you can get. In fact, next to Velvia 50 or Ilford's Pan F+, I can't think of a sharper film (without getting into scientific films or crazy exotic films).
>>
>>2924253
Her skin tones make her look dead.
>>
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>>2924677
>shifted red into yellow
Nigga what are you doing? That's the wrong fucking direction. Most lush, foliage-heavy shots like this have way too much yellow. You need the reddish tones to really help out with the wood.

If you have too much red, you balance that with complimentary colors (such as cyan if it's true red or green if the red is more magenta). Also, when you're scanning film and you have color casts, you really need to be working with luminosity masks and individual color curves. It's a fuck ton more accurate than shifting around hue and luminosity. Whatever you do, you don't take a piss on the entire photo and turn everything yellow.

Here's a quick whack at this potato scan. It ain't perfect, but it's a damn sight better than turning it all yellow.
>>
>>2924821
Holy shit your monitor must be awful if you think this is improvement
>>
>>2924480
Like >>2924572 said, those are built like tanks. As long as you don't do anything complete retarded, you'll be fine. They were a work horse camera for 30 years for a reason. Apart from the weight, you'll be surprised at how easy they are to use. Especially for the RZ's (and especially the later models, like the Pro II bodies), it's actually hard to fuck up the mechanics.
>>
>>2924825
Ah, yes. The "your monitor must be awful" meme. The last resort of somebody who can't actually describe what, exactly, they don't like about a photo.
>>
>>2924830
It's too warm and you've basically destroyed any concept of blue to balance it
But ah yes the defensive reply
>>
>>2924830
>green shadows
>>
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>>2924833
>green shadows
Green at 100% saturation. All other hues at 0% saturation. Yep. Green shadows everywhere.

Try again, kid.
>>
>>2924842
>what is relative color
Hello colorblindness!
>>
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Portra 400.
>>
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>>2924873
>>
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>>2924875
>>
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>>2924878

Creep shot.
>>
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>>2924883
>>
>>2924821
I really like this

It's far more realistic looking compared and makes the rocks stand out quite a bit more
>>
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>>2924886
>>
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>>2924892
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>>2924883
>Taking creep shots on film

You're either very dedicated to the art of creep shots or you misunderstood street photography. I guess it's the Finnish way.

Pic is a snapshit from vacation, Portra 160, taken with an Olympus OM-1 and a Sigma 75-250mm shit tier telelens with a very annoying loose sun cover which I can't seem to remove

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>>
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>>2924668
>>2924677
>>2924692
>>2924821
>>2924842
I'm not the op or any of the other people but I gave it a shot, on print calibrated monitor, using Alex's luminosity mask method.

Really this comes down mostly to personal taste once you remove the overall casts.

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>>
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Tri-X 400, OM-1 with Zuiko 50mm

>>2924892
You could have taken the card off that basket thing, otherwise very comfy photo
>>
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>>
The shadows of this >>2924821
with the highlights of >>2924899
would be the best version of this photo.
>>
>>2924883
This would be better if you had waited until the girl was passing the three, and shot it in B&W. Better luck next time.
>>
>>2924912
looks like shit
>>
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I haven't been able to shoot too much in the past two weeks, so I'm doing some re-scan/editing while passing time at work. Pls enjoy this meticulously cleaned/retouched pic of a statue

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>>
>>2924951
Yours too
>>
>>2924480
shit weighs like 8lbs of imbalanced weight.
>>
I got the wet-printing bug something fierce. Alas, the only suitable space in my apartment is a combined bathroom and laundry room, which has two windows w/ blinds in the middle, both facing a lit street. My questions are two: can this be adequately lightproofed with e.g. enough layers of black-and-white plastic (like potheads use to line their grow cabinets, but black side facing in)? Secondly, is it feasible to lightproof the door -- and if so, how?

Thirdly, how much is this kind of a lark going to run me? Is it worth going for a diffuser-type enlarger up front, or should I stick with a junk-sale condenser type?
>>
>>2925103
I do it in a shitty basement storage room with towels shoved under the door and dark cardboard in front of the ventilation shafts. If you can sit in the darkened room and not see shit after ten minutes, it's fine. If you want to be really sure, take a piece of photo paper, put a coin or something on it (immediately after removing from box) and let it rest for the time you think you normally have paper out of the box and add some for error margin. Develop the sheet as you would normally (fix properly, rinse extra properly and let dry also very well, preferably in the dark. Take it out into bright light after it's dry and look, if you can see the shape of your coin, the gray around it will be the amount your prints are darkened due to improper light sealing.
>>
>>2924883
If I had a buck for everytime I saw this shot.

I'd have enough to buy an 85mm 1.2 C/Y.
>>
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babby's first expired film

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>>
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Kiev 10 Automat + MIR-1 37, Kodacolor 200
>amidoinitrite?
>>
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>>2925201
niiiiice

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>>2925205
no worries
I just feel the shop shouldn't sell expired films without notifying customers
>>
>>2925212
I was bored. Haven't taken any film pics to work on lately. Plus it was a good practice for dust removal and tonig. More importantly why not?
>>
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>>2925215
>>2925206
body is heavy as hell, but i love the large viewfinder

so moar?

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>>2925222
yeah sure. pretty woman/ good colors
yeah its soothing
>>
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>>2925206
1 more

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>>2925224
different girl, different lenses
Helios-81 2/50
>>
>>2925232
you lucky fuckhole. nice pictures
>>
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>>2925232
ditto
4/?
>>
>>2924897
>you misunderstood street photography
I'm not that other guy, but would you elaborate? I'm only starting.
>>
>>2925211

Yeah my hp photsmart s20 has terrible banding on highlights at times. Not in every photo though so it must be some interference on the sensor or some shit.

Sharpness is better than on flatbeds though and only cost me 15 €.
>>
>>2924480
god tier camera
>>
anyone know a good way to dslr scan film? cant find any good guides

i want to do it because ive heard its better than flatbed but i might just give up and get an epson v600
>>
Wish I could put the frame lines of a CLE into a Leica M. damn 40mm haters
>>
>>2925474
You can. Just buy a Bessa R3. Yeah, the shutter is louder. Yeah, you won't get the hipster cred. Yeah, you get a smaller camera like the CLE.

No-one will notice the shutter unless you're in a silent place taking a creepshot. Don't do that. Only you really notice the shutter going CLACK CLACK.
>>
>>2925476
Just would like it if I could have a viewfinder with dedicated 28 and 40 frame lines. R3 has the 40, but all the other frame lines are superfluous to my needs or wants. Too bad there's no aftermarket customization for these sorts of things. Guess I'd better get used to hotshoe viewfinders...
>>
http://petapixel.com/2016/09/13/impossible-project-founder-new55-saving-peel-apart-film/

What will YOU do with five exposures?
>>
>>2925610
>impossible-project

stopped reading there.
>>
Why would anyone still shoot slide film if it's not projected?

Ektar is better than Velvia.
>>
>>2925615
The important question is why anyone would shoot film over digital.

Digital is better than film.
>>
>>2925615
>>2925617

wow trump btfo.
>>
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>>2925617
>>2925625
>>
>>2925629
I shoot mostly film, and gotta say thats a super cringy statement.
>>
>>2925629
That guy probably owns Ilford stock.
>>
>>2925636
Nice b8 m8
>>
>>2925629
Is that how you convince yourself your drunken snapshits have merit?
>>
>>2925610
While I'm happy it's going to live, I hope to see Type 100 again so I can have more fun with polaroid backs.
>>
>>2925631
>>2925678
>>2925679
I know. Just found the quote randomly on he internet and saved it because I thought it was lolz.
Found this context fitting for it.
>>
>>2925636
>casio is to a pianist
good bait. I'll bite.

Once you get over tone, the big difference is in weighted keys. Anyone pretending otherwise is a fraud.
>>
>>2925636
>>2925698

But Casio makes great digital pianos with weighted keys.
>>
Wow 35 is small once you've been around 120. My apsc sensor hmpph
>>
>>2925698
>once you get over the literally most important aspect of an instrument the the main difference is...
>>
>>2925716
Modern digital APS-C is fine with lenses designed for it.

But yeah, 35mm is baby format. Even baby 6x4.5 dwarfs it. Once you move onto 6x7, 8 and 9 it's like a point and shoot or mobile phone.
>>
>>2925719
>once you realise that tone coming from the casio is irrelevant because we live in an age of weighted keys and midi
I mean, If you'd said grand piano, then fine.
>>
>>2925729
>I have literally no clue what I'm talking about
How does it feel to be tone deaf?
>>
>>2925731
Oh shit ya gots me. Can't compete with a full patrician analoguefag argument like that.

This is what I get for stepping into the wrong neighbourhood.
>>
>>2925733
You're trying to argue that an instrument's voicing isn't important. You really, really need to step back and reevaluate your life, figure out why you feel the need to be pointlessly contrarian on an anonymous image board.
>>
>>2925735
>can't take a joke
>still at it with the strawmans
While we're at it, why are you being pointlessly contrarian too?
>>
>>2925738
>b-b-ut I was just pretending to be retarded the whole time.

I'm not the one being contrarian m8. I didn't go out of my way to latch onto some minor illustrative example in a post, ignore the most important aspect of that illustration, then pretend that I showed it to be wrong.
>>
Guys I just got a new job and I'm gonna buy myself a Bessa R2 to celebrate. I need to decide on a lens though still. Is the Voigtländer Color Skopar 35mm f2.5 the bestest?
>>
>>2925698
>>2925705
>>2925719
>>2925729
>>2925731
>>2925733
>>2925735
>>2925738
>>2925740

so how about not talking about retarded shit huh? you guys ready to try again?
>>
>>2925251
Well, it's quite a special genre, it's not done a lot these days, at least not how it was done some decades ago. The idea is that you get candid yet interesting and quality scenes on camera. Composition is (as always) important and that's not easy, seeing that your subjects can't really know they're being photographed. Here lies the (only) similarity with creep shots. Thing is, you can't just make a photo of someone and call it street photography. The photo in >>2924883 is just horribly composed. The only redeeming factor is the gate that sort of nicely frames the picture, but the subject is too small, too centered and too uninteresting.
>>
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Portra
>>
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>>2925749
either the color skopar or 1.4 nokton
>>
Silly question about fixer.

As time goes by my fixer gets worse and worse, I usually mix it at 1+14 because I'm cheap and process irregularly. I started fixing for 10 minutes and had some unfixed portions. I cut off some film and timed how long it took to clear, about 7 or 8 minutes. From what I've read I've to double that.

My question is how long can I keep this up for? Will it eventually exhaust completely or can I keep pushing it until my own breaking point?
>>2925749
>>2925879
Skopar > Nokton. The nokton is nice, but like the 50 1.5 it's soft as shit. At MFD you'll be caught in a swirl of bokeh you may find unappealing.
>>
>>2924091
I am jealous. You are going to learn to love that film. Not many people get to fall in love with a particular film nowadays.
>>
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discotheque

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>>2926063
1+14 spoils faster than 1+4.
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any recommendations of an IR filter for babbys first B&W IR shooting? I plan to use Rollei 80s.
>>
>>2926408
>>2926407

what film is this? looks kinda like old nitrate film (i know it isn't)
>>
>>2926551
Retropan 320 has grain out the ass like that. Dunno though.
>>
>>2926586
that's more of a "anything foma has grain out the ass" thing though.
>>
>>2924480
beautiful

————————————————————
sent from my Mamiya™ 645 Super
>>
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My camera is shit in low-light conditions (yashica electro 35), or I have no idea what I'm doing. Should I buy a Canon EOS-3 or should I go to the gear thread to ask?

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>>2926743

these go up to 4 seconds shutter speed. it should handle low light perfectly fine.

>eos3

you can have whatever you want, but those cameras are so ugly and boring m8.
>>
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>>2926747
Only wanted to eos3 because it has multiple exposure capability, but I'm sure I can find something else that can do that.

And yeah I have no idea why low light is fucking me over, but it is. I even took it off of auto shutter speed and held the damn button down for 30 seconds while taking this picture.

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>>2926753

does that camera even has bulb mode?
>>
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>>2926754
Yeah that's what it was on when I took the above picture. The subject has to be really close or it's just a garbage photo automatically (fixed lens)

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>>2926759
Although there's really no subject here, just a taste of an attempted long-range shot that turned out poor. Maybe I'll just get a DSLR, this is literally the only thing I have to work with at the moment.

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>>2926762
>NORITSU KOKI

thats the reason the image looks shit.
>>
>>2926767
>NORITSU KOKI
What the shit is that? I see the EXIF data but, huh? I'm pretty sure it just says that because I had the assholes at Walgreens scan these just to see if they could do a better job than I could.
>>
>>2926767
Hm wait, so I should try to develop this myself and it might be better?
>>
>>2926754
Of course it does.
>>2926753
If you're only looking for multi exposure there are lots of other EOS bodies that do the same for less money. If you're shooting casually, you probably don't need all those autofocus points.
Even a cheap-ish body like the EOS 300 will do most of the things you want it to do.
>>2926776
No, If you scanned it yourself it may be better but if it's underexposed on the negative there's not much you'll be able to do.
>>
>>2926783
Hm, might cop a cheap ass EOS 360.
>>
>>2926773
It's the type of scanner walgreens used. They don't really put out good quality scans.
>>
>>2926551

Ilford Pan 400 in Rodinal. I fucked up something during the development because it came out extremely grainy.
>>
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>>2926958
This is Ilford Pan 400 in diyrodinal(as in, worse than the official stuff), semi-stand 1:100 1hr 23°C, scanned with a potato by a potato.
>>
idk guys why you hate grainy so much, if so - why don't you shoot digital?
>>
Hi /fgt/,
is there any way to tell if the film has been exposed to light or I just fucked up making the developer?

I put the film in the tank in someplace I thought was dark, but after my eyes adapted to darkness I noticed it wasn't as dark as I thought... still decided to give this roll a shot and developed it and the result is that it's just black.
>>
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Anyone shot a roll of these before?
>>
>>2927051
Nah, looks cute though! Is it a rebranded emulsion?

>>2925876
I put negs over a frosted glass lamp and take photos on my phone to preview. Works fine, but it's not gonna beat a good scan. Needlessly expensive but a solid concept if you're realistic about how it'll turn out.

I'm sat patiently scanning some HP5 at 1600, babby's first two stop push. ID-11. It's gonna take forever cos I'm using pointlessly high scan settings, I lied about being patient. The grain looks pronounced through a loupe (backwards 50mm enlarger lens...) but I'm legitimately amazed by the contrast. Anyone here pushing two stops (or more) regularly? Some seem like they're just pure black and pure white!
>>
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SNAP TIME
35mm_Eddition.

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>>2927331

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>self reply
oops lol

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>>
>>2927336
Babbys first bokeh
>>
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All done. Pls let me know how these make you feel

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>>
>>2927340

are you the same edward that posted 6x7 pictures of old fellas chillin in the park?
>>
>>2927413
Yea, that my general M.O., I'm still working on that series, just taking a bit of a break from it for a bit.
>>
>>2927330
FLORIDA
L
O
R
I
D
A
>>
>>2927422
Indeed my dude. You a native?
>>
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missing out on nothing tbqh.
>>2927033
Probably some light. Try hunching yourself over with a thick blanket/some curtains in the dark too. You'd have to really fuck up big time on the dev to get a black roll.
>>
>>2927430
lol edgy
>>
Bought my first film camera for fun, where can I quickly and cheaply buy 35mm b/w film in the midwest US? And any tips
>>
>>2927450
Freestylephoto.biz or Amazon.
>>
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How did i do /film/?

ektar 100, 35mm

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>>2927467

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>>
holy shit, how do you guys raise the temperature of your chemicals? It's so fucking annoying putting the chemical bottle in the hottest water the tap puts out, it's fucking slow as shit. does everyone put up with this?
>>
>>2927521
You talking about colour chem? I eyeball all the temps for my black and white.
>>
>>2927524
yeah, c-41

Getting the chems up to the temperature is the most boring, time-consuming part of the whole thing
>>
>>2927524
This. Getting between 19 and 21 C is easy as tuning the faucet a bit with a thermometer in the stream.

>>2927535
>>2927521
I've bought a Tetenal C41 set, as B/W developing was going very well. I did a few 'dry runs' to see if I could effectively maintain the temperature of a filled sink within a 0,1 C deviation for an extended period of time, before I start possibly wasting photos, film and chemicals. It wasn't easy, I'm thinking of doing my next colour roll myself, but the margin of error is really narrow.
>>
>>2927543
after you get the chemicals to the target temperature, it doesn't drop fast enough i think to make a difference. but I live in warm climate, maybe that's helping me.

another thing that annoys the hell outta me is the Blix leaking out during inversions with this shitty paterson tank cover. probably leaks with developer too but it's hard to tell
>>
>>2924912
BROOOOTHERR
I have an OM-10 and the 50mm Ziuko

I hate my photos as muh as I hate yours

>>2924920
cool
>>
>>2925228
I love how uncomfortable this is
>>
>>2927174
>Nah, looks cute though! Is it a rebranded emulsion?

No idea what emulsion it is rebranded from. I have no idea what film has 27 exposures as well. For the record I believe it has no dx coding.
>>
>>2927051
Wow im interested in this
>>
Mfw I shot 6 frames of Velvia 50 on 6x9 before checking if the lenscap was off. Such is life of rangefinder noob
>>
>>2927612
shame (?) about the wasted shots. you can rewind/respool it in a darkroom and reshoot those 6 frames ofc.
>>
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>>2927521
I use hot or warm water in a bigger jug that my smaller jugs sit inside. Just general hot water to no specific temperature so I keep a close eye on. Stir with the thermometer and measure from close to the middle of the liquid. This is for b/w though, I guess if you're using glass bottles it's different.

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Over the past few months, I've home developed 12 color negative rolls, all Superia 400 and 800. My biggest disappointment has been that I haven't improved in my ability to develop film.

I don't actually know if this is a developing issue, but I seem to get this strange discoloration on all overexposed skies (see picture). A lot of white/yellow specks and tiny white blobs all over the film. I also get a lot of water dry marks on my film. I thought that's what the stabilizer was for. Should I just get photo-flo and skip the stabilizer that comes with the dev kit?

If it doesn't get better I think I'll cut my losses and just send my film to get developed by labs.

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>>
>>2927648
Those are bromide drags son
>>
>>2927521
I'll probably get jumped on for this, but I use the microwave to warm my chems. Been doing so for the past 3 years. Haven't noticed any degradation of the chems, damage to the microwave, or deteriorating health. Latest 2L c41 kit was mixed in June 2015, has about 50 rolls through it, and is still working. Chems are stored in 2L soda bottles.

Call me redneck if you wish, I'll accept the compliment.
>>
>>2927648
> Make sure your developer/blix are at exactly 102ºF–I usually set the thermometer in my bottles for over an hour until they are a steady 102.
>Put your developing tank in the water bath with your chems to keep it at a more stable temperature.
>Make sure you're doing a pre-wash and you're filling/emptying at least 7 times (or until you see absolutely no color change) between developer/blix/stabilizer.
>Stabilizer just preserves the dyes over time, add some photo flo to your final wash and squeegee from there. I squeegee twice down, turn the film over and do it twice more, and one more for good measure going the opposite direction.
If you still have problems after this it's most likely your chemicals or if you're really terrible your agitation technique.
>>
>>2927535
Just get some water on the stove to ~120ºF and about an hour before you plan on developing soak your chemicals until they baseline, then it's usually just a matter of adding hot or cold water to bump it up a few degrees
>>
>>2927577
I've read this is rebranded Fuji Superia. Some of their disposables have 27 exposures. Still a really cool label
>>
remember when lots of us bought 10X TriX 35mm film rolls for $7?

did anyone get them yet? ;__;
>>
Bought a Konstrutor for shits and giggles. What kind of film would be a good start if I can only shoot at 1/80sec and f/10? I'll have my dslr around to meter with, but would like recommendations
>>
>>2927648
Stabilizer is used to halt the dyes from fading, and to put some biocidal stuff into the gelatin to keep micro-organisms from eating it. While it also typically has some photo-flo type stuff in it, the real reason to not wash after stabilizing is so that the latter function isn't compromised. It does nothing for the image, for better or worse -- so your fault is somewhere else. (I'd go with some kind of agitation defect in this case; are you inverting the tank, or just using the agitation rod?)

For black and white film, we use just the photoflo because silver in itself is biocidal.
>>
Why do different dilutions of the same chemical have an effect on the final image?

I'm looking at ID-11 and it says stock (1:0) has "best overall image quality at meter setting", whereas 1:3 has "maximum sharpness". I understand why different developers look different, but why the same developer at different strengths when you compensate for extra time at weaker dilutions? It seems like it holds true for other chemicals too.

>>2927783
Jelly, I want a Konstructor. Probably use something fast, maybe set your DSLR to auto ISO with 1/80 f10 and see what ISO the meter spits out. Throw a 400 speed film in and push it accordingly in development.
>>
>>2927559
Yeah I have a weir brandless tank and it leaks like a mare in heat. I recently acquired a full darkroom set from someone who quit printing and it included a tank with a screw cover, but it looks very old and dirty. It might be worthwhile to clean it and see if it fares better.
>>
Anyone have a Zuiko 35mm f2.8?
Have a 50mm 1.8 for my OM1 but it's a bit tight, though from reading reviews the 35mm 2.8 is pretty garbage.. the 50 seems fine to me so comparatively how bad is it?
otherwise, alternatives?
>>
>>2927794
All zuiko lenses, even the zooms, are fantastic; especially for the price. But do remember that they've got coatings from the seventies and eighties, and that wide-angle lenses are prone to flaring without a hood.

I've got both the 35/2.8 and 28/2.8, and they're about as nice as OM-system Zuiko stuff gets. So, not modern-day Nikkors, but not as far behind as the price difference would indicate.
>>
>>2927798
>All zuiko lenses, even the zooms, are fantastic; especially for the price.

Are the Zuiko lenses better than the old Nikkor AI lenses? Especially when adapting them to m43?
>>
>>2927794
50mm 1.8 was the standard lens sold with the OM-1. It's a fine lens, as are all Zuikos. Some of the Sigma OM lenses are crap, I have a 75-250mm telelens and it's good I got it for free, because it's crap. Some of the Vivitar OM lenses are surprisingly good, despite their shitty reputation, I use the 35-70mm all the time. The primes are however, vastly superior. The 50mm is very good, but the 135mm is my favourite lens of them all. It's excellent for portraits and other situations where you aren't moving too much and don't want to be breathing down your subject.
>>
>>2927802
Shit, forgot to add that adapting for m43 does create a telezoom effect because of the crop factor. This will limit the use of OM film lenses. Which is a shame, because I wanted to use all my lenses for moving partly to digital.
>>
>>2927467
you focused on the door insted of the woman
>>
>>2927786
Following the instructions of the kits, I agitate with the rod the first 10 seconds, then I do 4 inversions every 30 seconds afterwards. I do this for developer and blix steps.

>>2927748
>and you're filling/emptying at least 7 times (or until you see absolutely no color change) between developer/blix/stabilizer

Yeah, I don't do any wash between dev and blix (though I do rinse it right before the stabilizer). The main problem I see here is that the filling/emptying water won't be 102 degrees and it will undoubtedly change the film's temperature, possibly creating a temperature gradient across the film from the filling and emptying. On the instructions, blix actually has a 95-105 degree range, so hopefully that wash won't affect it negatively.
>>
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>>2927469
3/3

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>>
>>2927860
Yeah had to prefocus, but i did it one the door instead of the tiles on the ground.

But other than that is ok?
>>
>>2928006
crop/composition and lighting is good, however I don't feel anything interesting is hppening
>>
Want to trade my Polaroid Land 360 kit for a nice 35mm slr. I'll be in my house all day today waiting4u
>>
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Restocked on E6 for the next bit.

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>>
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Sandpaper emulsion.

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>>
>shoot several rolls of film
>scan only a strip or two of 5 frames
>probably only 1 or 2 shots I like total

Man, film is brutal. Mostly because scanning is so time consuming. Now every time I'm about to take a picture, I'm going to have to ask myself: "Is this shit interesting enough that I'm going to bother scanning it later?"
>>
>>2928293
t h i s
>>
>>2928293
good?
that will make you a better photographer, being more selective and not snapshitting like anyone with a dslr.
>>
>>2928293
thats good anon. youll gt more selective.

i probably fire the shutter less tham 10% of the time i look through the viewfinder and compose a shot. i typically get ~4 keepers out of 12 on a roll of 120.
>>
>>2928338
>taking fewer photos makes you better photographer
Inherent cognitive dissonance
>>
>>2928345
learning to distinguish what is and isn't worth taking a photograph of is all a part of learning and training your eye.. you shoot film like digital and you'll be upset, as he was, that barely any of those 36 images are worth keeping, and so you become more selective, and then learn, and see that over time more and more of the shots you've taken on a roll are good photographs.
Snapshitting 1,000 photos isn't going to teach you anything and is in fact counter productive to your growth as a photographer as you don't train your eye to see things well, you train yourself to be lazy and take 100 photos of the same thing and then find the 1 you like and edit it until you get something half decent.
>>
>>2928345
fewer at the beginning to start making better pics and then a lot of good pics
>>
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first time in /p/, i can't sleep and have been looking through film from the last year

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>>
>>2928345
when I studied photography one teacher told us to get an old 64mb memory card and tape our zoom lenses at 50mm (many people didn't have fixed lenses) and shoot like that for a few months
>>
>>2928346
No you're wrong and suffer from cognitive biases
>>
>>2928351
comfy
>>2928346
>>2928345
>my friend tries this with film
>24 exposures of graffiti and trash he found on the street
>still takes him weeks to shoot a roll of film
He'll never improve even by being selective, because it's like he has no self filter.
>>2928352
He also tried this with an SD card and ended up using burst mode.
>>
>>2928360
well then he's an idiot
>>
>>2928352
> at 50mm
Yeah sure cause most ppl start shooting with FFs right ? I actually do that except I don't tape my lens and set it to 32mm
>>
>>2927929
Just find a mark on your faucet where you can get within 10ºF of your water temp and memorize that for future use. I've never had any issues with my film changing temperature after washes. Only on the first wash do I try to get it within (+-)2º do I don't shock my film when I add the developer.
C-41 is honestly super simple with only the developer needing to be as a concrete temp. I'd advise you just wash more between steps, Ive still poured out different colored water after the 7 fills so just do it until it looks mostly clear. And I just fill it roughly full and then slosh it around for a few seconds and dump.
I follow these same instructions for E-6 which is undoubtedly less forgiving and more finicky so if you slow down and adjust your methods a bit more I think you'll find C-41 is really pretty simple.
>>
>>2928177
How do you like 400X compared to 100F? It's the only emulsion I haven't tried from Fuji
>>
>>2927742
That's an interesting idea, I'm more impressed you got 50 rolls out of a 2L kit, do you just mark down how many rolls you've put through it and adjust your times? I'd imagine your developing time must be super long if you haven't refreshed it any
>>
>>2928429
>mixer taps
cuck spotted.
>>
>>2928431
Dunno, never shot it before. I've heard great things about it though. I'll definitely post some shots on /p/ once I shoot with it.
>>
>>2928414
>he doesn't tape his lens
what a faglord
>>
>>2927756

No but I got my money back from ebay.
>>
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Shot on expired Kodak Gold with my old childhood camera Canon Prima Zoom 76
ok and I photoshopped the scan a tiny little bit.
feedback? started again after a big break

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>>
>>2928566

i love it. i dont like this cliche phrase, but it really looks like a painting. its pleasant, post more.
>>
>>2928566
godly
>>
>>2928566
>>2928582

cont. it has the same tones found in those sweet ass tarkovski polaroids. would buy a book of this, swear.
>>
Bought a cherry Nikon FE and 35 2.8 AI-s on the road for 140 bucks, with two Hoya UVs and a Tiffen CPL, and a 2x Soligor tele that ain't too shabby and has a removable element that turns it into a macro extender.

How bad did I fuck up /p/?
>>
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>>2927424

Did someone say Florida?

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>>2928613
Do you shoot in Florida?
>>
Saw one of these color enlargers and a b&w enlarger at goodwill, but they were already sold.
I don't have space for a darkroom anyway...

At least I found 6 rolls of film for 3 bucks though.
>>
>>2928433
I don't really keep track. 50 was a guess. I'm sure my process wouldn't stand up to a control strip run through a densitometer. But I've run enough rolls now that when i detect (by eye) that the density has dropped slightly, I add another 15 seconds. It works for me, might not for others.
>>
>>2928792
I need one of those things too, working with loose colour filters in the b/w enlargers I already have is also a possibility, but I can't find any loose filters anywhere. Also, everyone advises against doing colour at home because supposedly it's next to impossible to get close to even drug store tier prints. B/W printing is so fun though, I really want to do colour too.
>>
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EOS A2 battery pack looks a claymore. what's worse it's designed to be a fanny pack attached to your belt. This is some really weird as shit.
>>
>>2928609
>>2928582
thank you! i actually watched a lot of Tarkovski this summer, lol. gonna post more tomorrow
>>2928605
thanks
>>
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>>2928664

I does.

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Tell me how shit my setup is.

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>>
>>2928972

breddy good

rebel-toting soccer moms on here will shit all over it though
>>
>>2928976

This is good to hear
>>
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First time shooting a successful roll. (first two rolls experienced camera problems) So how did I do?

Fuji Superia Xtra 400

1/4

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>>
>>2929023
why are you harassing your local transsexuals
>>
>>2929023

that a 400 asa film? looks pretty good. what camera/lens?
>>
>>2929029
Nikon F2 with a 50mm f/2 Nippon Kogaku lens.
>>
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>>2929023
Fuji Superia Xtra 400

2/4

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>>
>>2929033

looks real good. i think its an effective portrait too. post more.
>>
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>>2929023
>>2929035
Fuji Superia Xtra 400

3/4

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>>
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>>2929023
>>2929035
>>2929039
Fuji Superia Xtra 400

4/4

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>>
>>2929035
why are you wasting your film on shit heels like this? Pu some fucking effort into your work.
>>
just spend a grand for 22 packs of fuji fp-3000b and 5 packs of fp-100c. I am in love with 3000b film

it also comes with a polaroid 600 SE (which I will prob sell and buy a pentax 67 with the money)
>>
>>2929035
makes me think of edward hopper for some reason
>>
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If anyone can help...

I'm looking for a manual SLR or rangefinder that's still going cheap, seriously considering the Nikon FG as you can grab one of those + a 50mm 1.8 for about 120 AUD

Otherwise a Yashica 35 electro rangefinder or an Olympus SLR etc would be nice... anyone has a go to cheap manual SLR or Rangefinder they rate?

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>>
>>2929023
>>2929039
>>2929048
>>2929035
>lab scans that aren't complete trash
>of photos that are complete trash

Where did you get these done?
>>
>>2929131
As long as it's in good nick and works fine, that's an excellent deal.
Pick it up.
>hot tip - you can't go wrong buying ANY working Nikon with a prime lense for under/around $100
>>
>>2929061
Just testing the film for the first time in this camera, and I've already dealt with the heartbreak of spending copious time on shots to have a camera fuck up my roll. Also these people are probably far more interesting then yourself.

>>2929133
These were scanned and developed at Colonial Photo & Hobby in Orlando, Florida. Also if you could give me an in depth critique on why you think these are trash, I'd appreciate the input.
>>
>>2929131

Don't fall for the Yashica Electro (very bulky) or om10 (too expensive because hipsters and no manual controls) meme.

Get Om40 with 50mm/1.8.
>>
>>2929201
OM10 is a pile of shit. Zuiko lenses look bad and the OM10 is notorious for having shutter problems due to bad design. I have an OM10 and it sits in a bag and will continue to do so indefinetly.
>>
>>2929131
>Yashica 35 electro rangefinder or an Olympus SLR

dont fall for the yashica meme, its a waste of money. i think zuiko lenses have a boring image rendition. fite me.

get a spotmatic with the super tak 1.4 instead.
>>
>>2929131
Yashica 35 is garbage, bulky as fuck, you need a battery adapter and will have no manual controls besides focusing. I don't know why hipsters latch onto it. If you need a rangefinder on a budget, get a Vitomatic or a Minolta.

Olympus is alright, the 1.8/50 Zuiko is sharp as tack, just avoid the OM-10 which is an auto-only budget model with horrendous controls.
>>
>>2929211
>I don't know why hipsters latch onto it.

hipsters pay big dollar for plastic focus free pieces of garbage. them getting a subpar but proper camera is a feat, really.
>>
>>2929207

Spotmatic is a fine camera but microprism focusing is shit.

If you want m42 you should get fujica with split image focus.
>>
>>2928972
>That A7
This is would be my ideal adapted lens camera, but tfw poorfag
>>
I accidentally used straight Kodafix to fix my Tri-X 400 for 4 mins. How fucked are my negs gonna be?
>>
>>2929396

It's going to be ok.
>>
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Does anyone know what this lens is and how much its worth?
>>
>>2929447
one on the bottom right is the nifty fifty 1.8 probably worth 15 bucks

other two are probably shitty vivitars hardly worth their weight in shit
>>
>>2929448
Thanks anon will not buy
>>
>>2929448
It doesn't mean that they're shit. It just means that they don't cost anything. If somebody's selling them for a ton, then yeah, don't buy. If somebody's selling them for pennies, then it might be worth it to play around a bit.
>>
>>2929498
Their selling anything in that pic for $100au. Since I'm not invested in the canon system it makes more sense for me to spend that money on film for my pentax unless I can re-sell them for profit.
>>
>>2929525
selling everything I mean.
>>
>>2929131
I have a Nikon FG and I prefer using it over the F3 and other higher end models due to its slightly more compact size and auto mode.
If you can find one in good condition then go for it.
>>
>>2929124
Why sell the Polaroid? It's one of the few cameras out there that can shoot the full frame of peel apart film with great, interchangeable lenses.
>>
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>People say you should overexpose color negative film.

I shot Portra 400 @ 200 and colors turned really strange.

There is no reason to overexpose Portra or Ektar.
>>
>>2929619
You're one of the vocal idiots giving film a bad rep online. Or a troll, which amounts to the same. Sad.
>>
>>2929619
Ektar gets all fucked up for even slight deviations, plus it's a bitch to scan and requires its own snowflake color profile because fuck you t. kodak. I've found god damn Velvia easier to expose and digitize.

Overall I concur with the overexposing, it's a shitty rule of thumb. Just one stop is enough to make shit look washed out, especially on finer films like Pro 400H which is very sensitive to overexposure. I've always found that negative film looks much better at its package ISO than at +1 stop, at least for color.
>>
>>2929619
Where was this photo taken? Looks like my old workplace.
>>
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>>2929627
I shot Ektar 100 from ISO 6 to ISO 1600 and developed normally, every shot made a full image which was recoverable. This film has latitude to the particle horizon.

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>>2929629
I'll believe it when I see your roll, fampai. I shot a roll of Ektar at ISO 50 and got nothing but nauseating blue-tinted overblown garbage.
>>
>>2929634
Maybe you have a sticky shutter?
I find Ektar to work best slightly overexposed, since it handled highlights better than preserving shadow detail.

It's made for scanning, not printing, so it shouldn't be any harder to scan than Portra or others.
>>
>>2929634
Yeah sounds like a damaged camera, or perhaps drugstore scans? You need to scan manually to compensate for the change in brightness because you aren't pull processing
>>
What's the best bang for your buck film. I'm planning to try film photography soon but I want the cheapest film that I can practice a shit ton of shots on, don't really care about any super fancy quality film until I've got the basics down. Any recommendations?
>>
>>2929647

fuji c200
kentmere
brits have agfa vista at 1 pound at poundland
ebay ass film (lucky, tudor)
>>
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>>2929647
Try Superia 200 and 400. Especially 400 is p. Good. Pic related

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>>2929653

Superia 400 is a great film.
>>
Portra in all variants is lovely
>>
>>2929709

never liked the VC line.
>>
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I always heard that with film you should meter for the shadows to preserve detail since the film will handle the highlights well (the opposite of digital), but I've had a lot of fun in high contrast situations metering for the highlights and letting the shadows go to black.

Metered for shadows, mid tones, and then highlights. Sorry it's a little over 1000px on the long side, not by much.

HP5 in ID-11 1:3. Definitely encourage my fellow anons to experiment with conventional wisdom.
>>
>>2929715

when there are just a few points of interest that are bright and the rest is shadows, i meter for those points alone. shits great. im getting some acros 100 for deep shadow play.
>>
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Ektar looks amazing at night.
>>
>>2929720
How is Acros 100? Every raves about it, I'm a little wary of low ISO though. I have two rolls of FP4 125 to shoot so maybe if the slowness doesn't prove to be a huge issue I'll pick some Acros up. Got any shots to share?
>>
>>2929715
The thing is you're purposefully losing visual information, irreversably. You can always crank up the contrast and get a heavily underexposed look both in scanning/digital pp and in darkroom printing with a properly exposed negative. But you cannot magically retrieve it from an underexposed neg. This seems to make as much sense as shooting camera raws with a very strong ND filter permanently screwed on, handheld.
>>
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>>2929731
That's a fair point. I was about to disagree saying it wouldn't look right but even after a minute of playing with sliders, fair play to you. I do think I'd rather have the neg look like as much like the finished image as possible, but I get what you're saying, more flexibility is useful.
>>
>>2929731

you have never uploaded a shot worth looking at, so shut the fuck up.
>>
>>2929730
>Got any shots to share?

not yet, im an hp5 type guy, thatd be my first acros roll, i have seen some amazing stuff shot on acros, it has some soft mid tones and rich shadows i have not seen anywhere else. search on flickriver for samples.
>>
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>>2929619
>>
>>2929744

what are you waiting to color correct it.
>>
Agfa Rodinal, is it different from Adox Rodinal? Is it rebranded?

Gonna finally start to develop my own b&w again
>>
>>2929728
Interesting, but not great

Show me Ektar at night with a subject that isnt your suburban street
>>
>>2927174
I've pushed HP5 to 6400 with decent results. Using HC110-B
>>
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>>2929597
I've been using my large format camera with a Polaroid back for the film, I can't really afford another camera setup.

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>>
>>2924084
Resize
>>
>>2929597
also it looks like its not a slr? do you look through the viewfinder?
>>
>>2929839
t. developing country with dial up connection
>>
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>>2929730
Acros in Rollei Supergrain.

Bear in mind it was shot on a pinhole tho.

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RPToilet was full so here are a few test shots from a Zorki-4 I got fixed up. [spoiler]Made a thread on a stuck focus ring if anyone remembers.[/spoiler]
Unfortunately faulty shutter ate most of them. Apparently it doesn't close properly on random frames. Back to the workbench it goes.
>>
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CREEPSHOT
R
E
E
P

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>>2929920
I remembered I had used Acros in a camera with a lens too, albeit a 100 year old folder.
Semi stand in Rodinal 1+100.
It seems like a comfy enough film, I have a few rolls I'm going to put through my Texas Leica soon-ish.

>>2929737
Props for taking on board critique in such a nice way, without making a fuss about it.

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crise du verglas, quebec, 1998

this is actually my uncle

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Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CS6 (Macintosh)
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>>
>>2929941
oops wrong thread! was supposed to be posted in the Historical Photos thread
>>
>>2925201
Soviet Camera master race

That zorki case really does it for me
>>
>>2928566
>>2928609
was gonna say the same thing about Tarkovsky... love this photo, great job anon
>>
File: 8383267640_e7a957a4cf_z.jpg (111KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]
8383267640_e7a957a4cf_z.jpg
111KB, 640x480px
>>2929343

I am just a dumb art student and I blew 3/4 my whole summer work pay on it. £700 + grip body only. I'm fine with my old lenses.

Next year I'll be after one of these.
>>
>>2929131
I wouldn't get the Yashica and I would def say to start with a SLR.

My first film camera was a Nikon FM and it's still one of my favorite cameras that I have. From what I've heard, most of the Nikon F SLRs are pretty similar, so I'd say go for the FG.
>>
>>2929715
>>2929731
How should one expose for landscapes? I typically expose for shadows or somewhere in the middle and I often end up with blown highlights. I've recently started exposing closer to the highlights and bringing up the shadows in pp.

I will note that this is typically shooting in shitty lighting conditions (it's much worse then), but I have noticed it in situations where the lighting should be good.

Is this just something that changes based on lighting conditions?
>>
>>2929834
dope
>>
Selling my CM on eBay need advice, never sold there:

- Fixed Price I expect?
- Or really 1$/€ starting bid?

- Please act as a Reality TV Pawnshop worker and tell me what I can get for:

Hasselblad 500CM + 80mm (old version) + 60mm (new version) in A24 back with its 220film (20 rolls)

Would make a nice pack for a /film/ enthusiast but Im afraid about eBay ,

thx /f/
>>
>>2930059

go to the alex burke site, he has top notch advice on getting good exposure for landscapes.
>>
>>2930095
What film, how much?
I don't want your shitty habblesad though.
>>
>>2930049
I just got one of those senpai

Best camera ever made
>>
>>2929944

Nice photo though. Thanks for sharing.
>>
I am on my first roll of Ektar. From what I read it will turn ugly blue easily.

Should I use skylight filter?
>>
>>2930258
disregard that shit, Ektar is nice af. Never had my ektar "turn ugly blue"
>>
Which one will produce smaller grain with iso 400 film. Rodinal 1+25 or 1+50?
>>
>>2930292
1+50
But unless you're pushing film try 1+75 or 1+100 for even finer grain if you don't mind longer dev time. Or maybe try another developer if you really want fine grain.
>>
>>2930316

My tank is 300ml. If I go form 1+100 there will only be 3ml of rodinal. Will it be enough?
>>
>>2930258
if anything it turns pink when underexposed
>>
>>2930342
Its a ratio, no matter the volume the mixture will always be the same strength
>>
>>2930316
Wrong.
>>2930292
Stronger dilutions provide finer grain, but will not give the same acutance/haloing/edge effects that longer devs with more dilute concentrations will.
However, what other dude said about just using another developer is your best bet.
>>
>>2930049
it's not too late. sell it and get something within your budget.
>>
Is it worth it to use d-76 1:1 when developing HP5+. I've read that it gives better sharpness which is something I've been lacking when using it stock.
>>
>>2924084
why does this look like made with a digital crap ?
did you mess with it in PS or is this the original scan ?
>>
File: ADONAL.jpg (2MB, 2500x2500px) Image search: [Google]
ADONAL.jpg
2MB, 2500x2500px
just ordered this
but not sure what b/w film i should order next....
needs to be cheap as possible
i heard that foma 100s are somehow ok ?!

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNIKON CORPORATION
Camera ModelNIKON D800
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop CC 2015 (Windows)
PhotographerDehio/Boeddecker
Maximum Lens Aperturef/4.4
Sensing MethodOne-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern934
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)50 mm
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution72 dpi
Vertical Resolution72 dpi
Image Created2016:09:01 14:21:40
Exposure Time1/250 sec
F-Numberf/7.1
Exposure ProgramManual
ISO Speed Rating640
Lens Aperturef/7.1
Exposure Bias0.7 EV
Metering ModePattern
Light SourceUnknown
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length50.00 mm
Color Space InformationUncalibrated
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Image Height2500
RenderingNormal
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
Scene Capture TypeStandard
Gain ControlLow Gain Up
ContrastNormal
SaturationNormal
SharpnessNormal
Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>>
>>2930741
kentmere sells cheap black and white. ilford has a budget line of 100 iso films too. beyond that i think it depends on where you are. in canada film is priced higher than the u.s. hong kong has average film prices.
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