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/film/

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Thread replies: 319
Thread images: 80

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This is the Film General Thread, aka FGT.
>just posting in the FGT doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot employ the zone system
This is the place to post your film photos, without flushing them down the Recent Photo Toilet.
It's OK to ask about film gear in this thread.

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>>
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>>
Does anyone else scan their film with a 50mm lens? I just started scanning my negatives with my dslr and they all seem to come out pretty shitty. Any tips?
>>
>>2908976
Get a kit of extension tubes, they'd turn your lens into a macro allowing you to get more detail, and since you're using the same glass you shouldn't lose quality. Plus they are cheap as fuck and easy to use.
>>
>>2908979
I actually think I have one for my kit lens. I'll try that out. Thanks
>>
>>2908976
I scan with a 50mm Macro. Look into one maybe?
>>
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>>2908976
>>2908979
>>2908981
>>2908985
Use a real macro lense.
If you can't afford a real macro lense, buy any 50/2.8.
Their simple lense design gives OK contrast and sharpness stopped down, as well as a reasonably flat field.
For scanning at f/11 they do fine.
This is an M42 Meritar 50/2.9.

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>>2909006
it's lens, not lense
>>
>>2909039

Lense is a recognized alternative spelling.
>>
>>2908966
Hey /FGT/s, thinking of getting into film photography. I like the idea of experimenting with expired film. But I was thinking of buying a cheap camera (79$ NZD) which includes processing for the first film reel I shoot, if I enjoy shooting with a cheap camera should I think of upgrading, if so whats a good beginner camera?
>>
I really want to shoot re-spooled movie film and get it processed in its own ecn-2 chemistry, no c41 cross processing bullshit, but I haven't found any movie lab that is willing to process such short lengths of film. shit sucks.
>>
>>2909171
35mm film or medium format? Gonna guess 35mm since you're starting out.

For that format, most any SLR you can find out there will do (Canon, Nikon, Yashica, Pentax, Olympus etc.). Personally, I use a Minolta SRT-101 I picked up at a flea market for 10$ and I quite like it
>>
>>2909181
35mm, I was thinking Canon AE-1 as a starter.
>>
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>>2909200
>mfw I'm selling my old ae-1

It's definitely a great camera to start with but you'll eventually evolve to an a-1 or f-1 or both

FD lenses are great and cheap. It's a good choice
>>
>>2909208
>FD lenses are great and cheap
Excellent.
Seeing as I'd be new to film, are there any particular things I should know?
>>
>>2909225
Don't forget to set the iso

If you're going to get an ae-1 learn how to use the DOF preview lever
>>
>>2909226
Thanks anon
>>
>>2909225
if you want to shoot it in the long run, I would recommend learning how to develop and scan it yourself, since it saves a lot of money and is actually pretty easy.

Also keep in mind that it's better to slightly overexpose than to underexpose negative film negative film (reverse for positive film)
>>
What's the cheapest colored 120 film?

I can't find any Superia 120 film anymore and the next cheapest are already the Kodak Portra 160 or Ektar 100.
>>
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I need more developer and I'm so indecisive about it. Sticking with Ilford to support the home team but I'm sick of my Ilfosol 3 going bad before I get to the end of it. My alternative is ID-11, but I feel more comfortable with a liquid developer for some reason.

Anyone else struggle to pick devs/films?

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>>2909347

there is no cheap 120 film. but you can sometimes find inexpensive expired rolls. it is truly the patrician format.
>>
>>2909356
>there is no cheap 120 film. but you can sometimes find inexpensive expired rolls. it is truly the patrician format.


I understand. But what is the cheapest among all the available colored 120 films?

Can I ask why is it patrician when a Holga cam uses it? Is Holga part of the patrician race?
>>
>>2909347
>>2909359
I think hp5 plus is $4 a roll
>>
>>2909361
I'm looking for colored.
>>
>>2909362
www.filmphotographyproject.com
>>
>>2909359
>why is it patrician when a Holga cam uses it

said no one ver.

look, all color film is dead with the exception of portra ektar and i think 400h. its all expensive and in the same range (portra being the most expensive). so your option is a sweet deal on an expired film lot.

>>2909361
>hp5

he asked for color film you blind ass roodypoo.
>>
>>2909364
>www.filmphotographyproject.com
>shipping to my location: $22.00+

They sure sell cheap Ektars. What a loss..
>>
>>2909347
probably ektar or Fuji 160NS/C
>>
>>2909365
>>2909362
Sheeit nigga damn no need to be hostile fuck
>>
>>2909362
>>2909375
Sorry about that man. English is not my native language and I don't know if my language is getting hostile or not.
>>
>>2909374
>Fuji 160NS/C

I will look into this film. Thanks my man.
>>
>>2909362
they prefer to be called "film of color"
>>
>>2908974

>Plastic bayonet.

Cameras of 90s sure were shit.
>>
>>2909365
>>2909408

COLOR FILM MATTERS

B&H color neg 120 sorted by price:

Ektar 100 @ $4.95 per roll
Portra 160 @5.50 per roll
Lomography 100 Color Negative 3 roll pack @ $10.99 ($3.66/roll)
>>
>>2909530
>Lomography """"""""""film""""""""

lmaooooooo, he would be better with 1995 expired slide film left in the sun.
>>
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>>2909352
If you want to shoot HP5, I suggest Tmax Dev.
I really like the skin tones I get with this combo.
Also I like that is softens the grain a little.
Also, it's a liquid concentrate that keeps a long time; very economical. I think you get about 60 rolls from a litre of concentrate.

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>>
>>2908976
>>2908976

Does anyone have a good tutorial on how to scan film properly? I do have a 100mm macro lens and just got into film and I'm loving it...I want to load my pictures onto my computer. How do? pllllsssss gooby
>>
>>2908966
>>2908966

Where do people go to get their film developed? It seems like a lot of stuff to own just to develop 24 pics
>>
>>2909569
>lot of stuff to own
>literally 5 items
>measuring object
>2 bottles
>tank
>changing bag
Don't fall for the bulk kit meme. Film dev is extremely simple, You don't need a £10-20 graduated cylinder/bottle
You can get yourself a measuring jug/spoon for like £2. Even a changing bag isn't mandatory, it just makes things a bit nicer/easier.
>>
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>>2909556
pic related
>>2909569
Well the point is you don't throw it all in the bin after your first roll, moron.
I've probably "saved" more by developing and scanning my own film than I've even spent on photography total.

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>>
>>2909604
What about the chemicals? If it's not that pricey to get into then I would definitely like to try. My dad did CSI and film developing for police but he passed away so it's kind of a homage to him now I'm older.
>>
>>2909617
For black and white film, you only really need your developer and fixer. Two sets of chemicals, developer shelf life varies but there are long lasting one shot (mix and bin) developers like Rodinal which lasts an age.
Fixer can be re-used a few times, and is fairly cheap.
C-41/Colour kits have more chemicals, but it's just a case of mixing and storing correctly. Usually it's best to save up a few rolls before processing. C41 is usually a Developer/Starter, Bleach and fix/stabiliser. Those are best to pick up in a kit, same with E6.

The big thing to get the most life out of your chemicals is to keep them airtight and away from light and heat.

If you're savvy and not completely retarded, the biggest costs of entry are chemicals, developing tank and a changing bag. Once you process more and more film those investments usually pay themselves off in the long run.
>>
>>2909617
For black and white you could probably throw together a kit for around $100 with the essentials plus enough chemicals to develop anywhere from like 10 rolls to several dozen depending on what you choose and how much you reuse chemicals.

I haven't done color, it's a bit more complicated and probably more expensive.
>>
>>2909625
>>2909630

are there any good articles online on developing times, changing bags and troubleshooting?

Also, is there a preferred canister of /p/ that you initially agitate in?
>>
Anyone shoot 120 6x9 and have some examples?
>>
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>>2909674

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>>2909352
Rodinal if you want something that never goes bad sitting on the shelf. Supposedly opened half-full bottles are fine after over a decade.
>>
When developing, I noticed bits of while gunk in my dev tank. Then the next day when I checked my film after letting it dry, I noticed while chalky shit on it, presumably the same white gunk I saw, but dried up on the film.

This occurred 3 times I developed. Do you guys know what this white stuff is the symptom of? Pls no cum jokes.
>>
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>>2909674

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>>
>>2909631
>are there any good articles online on developing times, changing bags and troubleshooting?

For B&W, I usually just follow the developing time and dillution written on the package of the film, do a wash (no stop bath) for one minute ,use the fixer for 4-6 minutes, do a final rinse for 10 minutes at 20°C water and add some photoflo at the end though that step is optional. B&W film is much harder to fuck up than C41 imo

As for c41, it's pretty much a standard procedure so check what's written on your developing kit (or Google it if it doesn't come with instructions).

>Also, is there a preferred canister of /p/ that you initially agitate in?
I don't know what you mean with initial agitation since I usually do all the developing in the same tank, but I use a paterson tank
>>
>>2909699
cum
>>
>>2909699
I think it's probably just going to be cum
>>
>>2909699
I came
>>
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that "cracked" colorperfect was a clever ruse. it magically became uncracked after a while

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>>
>>2909699
Mineral deposits from hard water? Do you ever get similar marks on your glassware when you do the washing up?
>>
>>2909787
I'd buy it if they would update their archaic windows 98 UI
>>
>>2909787
>Run scanning software in a virtual machine
>Install every time you want to convert
>Don't even have to connect the virtual machine to the net
PURE MAGIC. The same thing I did with Vuescan.
>>
>>2909819
You don't need to do that with Vuescan.

Install it, block it from making connection with the internet, then register it with one of the fake serials that came with the torrent.
>>
>>2909821
Ye, but at the same time I have a virtual machine I can use on any of my computers that's setup perfectly.
>>
Can anyone convince me to/give me tips on shooting black and white film exclusively?

Getting colour film developed is like $30 a roll because I have to do it by mail order (aus) so I'm going to buy some chemicals and a Paterson tank for black and white development.

I feel like I'm going to have to work on my composition more and won't be able to rely on colours/textures as much and focus more on shapes and contrast. This could be good for me I guess.

TLDR; tips and tricks for shooting and developing black and white film exclusively thanks
>>
>>2909678
I love the colours in this.
>>
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>>2909856
I took the same shot on my GR just for funsies.
>>
>>2909530
>Lomography 100 Color Negative 3 roll pack @ $10.99 ($3.66/roll)
>>2909536
>lmaooooooo, he would be better with 1995 expired slide film left in the sun.

Why what is wrong with lomography?
>>
>>2909873
It's quite low quality film and certainly not worth that money given the alternatives you have available.
I got ten rolls of that particular film for free a year or two ago and shot most of them. It's alright for snapshitting but I'd rather shoot Colorplus or Gold or Superia if I'm paying for it.

Some people, hipsters, like that "look," and I guess they're not harming anybody in doing so.
>>
>>2909864
good processing but I must be hipster film loving scum because I prefer the warmer tones of the first one
>>
>>2909873
Nothing, it's all rebranded budget emulsion.
https://www.geekjosh.co.uk/photography/lomography-rebranded-film-guide/
>>
Rollei RPX400 or Kentmere 400 for poorfag bulk rolling? I'm using HC110, pushing 1-2 stops occasionally.
>>
>>2909932
Haven't tried the Rollei but I didn't like the results from Kentmere 400 too much, I liked Kenmore 100 pushed to 400 though
>>
>>2909932
RPX400 is heap good, not as good as HP5+ or Tri-X, but it's definitely a credible option.
>>
>>2909908

I don't like the color palette, but this reviewer thought the film was fine.

https://www.lomography.com/magazine/303768-my-review-of-the-lomography-color-negative-100
>>
>>2910018
>lomography.com
>reviewer though the film was fine

Well no shit captain
>>
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>>2909908
>but I'd rather shoot Colorplus or Gold or Superia if I'm paying for it
This.
For me, the 40 cents or so a roll extra for Superia 200 is worth it every time.
>>2909873
>>2910018
>>2909536
Lomo 100 is definitely the grainiest non-expired film I've ever used, which is not what you want when shooting at 100 ISO. I think the film is probably closer to 25 or 50 if you want the best quality out of it.

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>>
>>2909922
>it's all rebranded budget emulsion.

its rebranded budget shit that didnt even make the cut. rebranded colorplus that didnt match the lousiest kodak QC, i mean LOL.
>>
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>>2910160
It's not as if the colours are that bad. it just need more exposure.
If this is actually VR100 then that's good news, because I have about 40 sheets of it in 4x5 to use, where the grain won't be quite as big a deal.

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>>
>>2910306
Where abouts in Brisbane are you?
>>
>>2910308
I'm located at avoiding contact with people from 4chan.
>>
>>2909932
Just get HP5.
You're not that poor.
>>
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I've been using the Nikon L35AF for the past few months. Really nice little camera but I feel like it's time for an upgrade.

What's a step-up from this camera without breaking the bank for a Contax T2/T3?

Has to be compact, autofocus, manual flash override.
>>
>>2910370
>buying into the L35AF

Let me guess, you read that article proclaiming that it's the BEST COMPACT EVER and paid the seriously inflated eBay prices?
>>
>>2910354
>edgy

>>2910370
What exactly are looking for by upgrading? What are you unhappy with with your current camera?
>>
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500mm mirror lens, hand-held. we sports now

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>>
>>2910389
no, we creeper now
>>
>>2910391
would've needed to climb a ladder beside the court to get a shot at this angle with a N O R M I E (DELETE THAT IMAGE) lens.

have some boat creeping

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>>2910395

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>>
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Got my first roll back. How did I do? Fujifilm Superia xtra 400 with the Canon AE-1

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>>
>>2910423
I mean, you found the shutter button so...good job?
>>
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Wide angle came in, I'm liking it so far. It's pretty damn sharp as well.

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>>2910573
wide angle on what?
>>
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>>2910578
For my RZ, it's the 50mm ULD.

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>>2910372
Yeah, to be fair it's an okay camera. I didn't pay too much for it.

>>2910373
It can be slightly temperamental sometimes. Annoying that the flash pops up and you have to push it back down again, there's no override button. The viewfinder is awful. Shutter feels horrible. Optically it's okay but vignettes/soft in the corners.

I'm beginning to think my only options are the likes of Yashica, Contax, Nikon Ti etc. All of the decent compacts are massively inflated in price. Even the Mju Ii costs like £80 which is probably comparable to the L35AF.
>>
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>>
>>2910601
>>2910595

These are nice and crispy. I bet they look great in higher resolution than sub-hd.

Also if you want borders you should just leave the physical borders of the negative in the scan. That's a much classier move than little digital borders from 1999.
>>
>>2910611
>Crispy
They are crispy af, this lens definitely lived up to the hype. The "FLOATING SYSTEM" ring is kind of funny, and it's really easy to forget to set it. These flatbed scans are already pretty nice, can't wait to see the silver prints.
>>
>>2910601

wow pretty crispy.

what camera lens combo?
>>
>>2910620
see
>>2910586


Also this is on Acros, which is already a very sharp film.
>>
>>2910624
what did you develop them in?
>>
>>2910624
XTOL 1:1. It's never let me down, and it gives you amazing sharpness:grain ratio with great speed. It works great on Tri-X and delta films too.
>>
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>>2910635
will have to try, been using Rodinal but it's really grainy, especially at higher speeds.

XTOL is a powder developer right? So basically I mix it with water, keep in a bottle and then mix it with water as I need it is that correct?

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>>2910638
>he fell for the rodinal meme
sorry to hear that dude. Rodinal has it's purpose and lasts forever but it produces a lot of grain.

XTOL comes in powdered from, it's two packets, A and B, and its a room temperture mix so no having to heat up water in a pot like D76. Makes 5L, which is a weird amount but you can just pour the extra into a small bottle and use it quick, or throw it out for all I care. Then you just dilute that 1:1 when you want to develop, pour it out when you are done.

it works for me because I shoot a lot and develop a lot, so I always use it up before it goes bad. If you can't use it all up, you might take a look at some other liquid concentrates like HC-110 or ID-11.
>>
If you had to have any Lomography camera in your collection (preferably one with an optional Instax back) which one would it be and why?
>>
>>2910799
I wouldn't, because they're all shit and over priced. C'mon man, you can have any decent 35mm film camera ever made for under 300 dollars. An F100 and 50/1.8 don't even cost that much. An F3 and and any number of mf primes don't cost that much. Hell, you could probably even get into a decent medium format camera for that much. Why are thinking spending money on some marketing monstrosity with plastic lenses is a good idea?
>>
>>2910799
Konstructor! No instax, but I dig the idea of building it. I've sketched out a few camera designs for 35mm or 120 but the shutter always gives me trouble, I'm more of a "drill holes and use brackets" guy than an engineer.

With instax I like the idea of the Belair, cos you can get a few different backs for it. Supposedly they're not great, but they're reasonable and seem fun. The idea of one camera that can do medium format, small format, instax, panaramas, is pretty cool. Jack of all trades, master of none I guess!
>>
>>2910658
Protip: If you don't shoot a lot, dilute into smaller bottles and place them in your freezer.
Just defrost it before using.
>>
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>>2910594
The Mju has the same issue with flash automatically being on when you turn the camera on. It's two quick pushes of a button thst has become second nature to me...but still slightly annoying. Aside fromsize, I don't think the Mju would be much of an upgrade.

>>2910638
This is a great shot. Beautiful light and comp.

>>2910799
Holga. Even after owning"real" 6x6 cameras it's still fun to pic up now and then. Pic related. I bought it when they were cheap though ($29 iirc). Fuck paying more than. $50 for one.
>>
>>2910573
>>2910586
>>2910587
>tfw barrel distortion
Just get an RF already
>>
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>>2910858
The Oly lenses are sharper and contrastier than the L35AF lense.
All of the Canon f/2.8 compact lenses are shitty, that I've used.
By a good margin, the crispest "compact" in my kit is the Fuji HD-M.
38/2.8, sharp across the frame, no distortion.
Horseman put 2 of them on an X-Pan body to make their 3D camera and charged a few thousand dollars for it.

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>>2910896
Your penchant for seeing very minute changes in curvature of series of straight lines may be a symptom rather than a skill, anon, but on't worry - in recent years being on the spectrum has lost a lot of its stigma in the public eye.
>>
>>2910799
Holga. For me it's the Holga tlr with glass lens and built in flash. Didn't cost much, is fun. I would forget the instant backs though.
>>
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>>2910927
I'm not the one taking distorted snapshits of buildings.
>>>>crispy
kek
But if I was, I'd use a rangefinder and get straight lines.
>>
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>>


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>>
>>2910969
because the method of establishing focusing distance is the sole factor in achieving perfect rectilinearity. Go play Minecraft or sort household objects by shape and size, anon, maybe that'll calm you down.
>>
just bought my first camera its a minolta maxxum 5 with a minolta 35-70 mm. only shot on AF so far. have not finished first roll how fucked am i?
>>
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>>2911003
>sort household objects by shape and size
Now you're talking.
But symmetrical optical designs do certainly help achieve a rectilinear projection at the film plane, slav, and rangefinder cameras certainly employ these designs more often than not in their wide angle lenses.
>>
>>2910969
>I'm not the one taking distorted snapshots of buildings

No, you're the one taking snapshits of stairs.
>>
>>2911017
As long as you let the camera do absolutely everything, incl. setting the film speed, exposures, and focus, they will be just fine.
>>
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Got Portra 400 from Israel.

3 rolls including shipping $28.80. Not a bad price.
>>
>>2911285

jew'd.
>>
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>>2911031
You both factually defended your point and made a witty retort, kudos. Still, telling someone to get an entire different photo system just to make a few architecture snaps marginally straighter is a very /p/ thing to do. Looking forward to more of your posts regardless, I enjoyed learning something new.
>>
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Copped this beauty a couple days ago. It's so good.

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>>
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>>2911341
Ayy, just got this a few days ago too. I just put my first roll of portra 400 in there. How much did you get yours for?

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>>
>>2911357
Got the Pentax ME including the f1.4 lens from a collector for 48 Eurobucks. Not bad I guess as the lens is like new.
>>
>>2911357
That's the ugliest camera I've ever seen
>>
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I need advice /p/

I've been shooting with a Nikon F3 for a while now but I want something a little lighter/smaller. I'm looking at the FA or FE, recommendations?

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>>
>>2909787
>it magically became uncracked after a while
WAT

What are talking about?
>>
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>>2911412
Nikon FE is the best film camera I've ever owned. Highly recommend.
>>
>>2911470
Not that it impacts the photos at all but I've always loved the styling of the FE. People talk about the F3 for having been designed by the Italian fashion designer (sorry bro if you're reading, I forgot your name), but the silver FE is so elegant and uncluttered. Minimalist even. My Canon A1 is supremely ugly by comparison, although very unobtrusive to use.

In other news >>2909352 this was me earlier. I just mixed up my first batch of ID-11. Still a little sketched out by the idea of powder dev over liquid concentrate, but I'll run a few rolls tomorrow and see! Exciting times lads :)
>>
>>2911401
You are wrong.
>>2911357
>>2911341
Fuck me black pentacks on fleek.
I think the pre-Art Sigma 50/1.4 still had an aperture ring in K-mount, it would complete the look on that 80's sex machine.
>>2911412
>lighter smaller
Mandatory recommend of EM.
If you can't let go of your manual control ego, FM3A. The oldest ones are only 15 now, which is practically a brand new camera in film land.
>>
>>2911478
Yeah the F3 was designed by Giorgetto Giugiaro, he also designed many cars and other cameras for Nikon. I love the look of the F3, the FE looks pretty similar to me and a little smaller and that's why I was considering it. I may have to grab an FE in the next week but I would like to see a size comparison. Hopefully I can find one with a 85mm or 35mm nikkor lens
>>
just developed my first 35mm bw film. fun and satisfying as fuck, I didn't expect to get good results
>>
>>2911505

Post photos.
>>
>>2911505
Are you the anon who asked about how to read the directions for developing inside a film packet in the other thread?

Either way, congrats!

>>2911512
Agree. Post photos!
>>
>>2911505
Hurrah! Not as hard as people seem to make out.

Looking forward to pics :3
>>
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>>2911412
The size and weight difference is pretty negligible.

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>>
>>2911528
Thanks for that, do you have an FE you could throw in the mix too? I'm more leaning towards the FE at the moment and would love a comparison between the fe and f3....
>>
>>2911285
>3 rolls including shipping $28.80
>Not a bad price
u wot
>>
>>2911536
No, but I'm pretty sure the FA, FE, FM, FM2, etc are all practically the same size
>>
>>2911540
Word, I just figured the FE/FA would be lighter because they don't have that big ass interchangeable finder/screens. Any other suggestions for a smaller F3-like camera?
>>
>>2911401

i bet you love your lomo marrakesh.
>>
>>2911357
That grip looks like the one on the Panasonic LX100
>>
>>2911379
Not bad. Have you developed anything from it yet?
>>2911554
Oh shit it does haha didn't notice that. I really like the grips on it actually. Feels nice in the hand
>>
>>2911450
the demo jumbled gridlines started appearing
>>
>>2909678
this is cute
>>
>tfw u got 2 bronica s2's and a gw690 coming in the mail
>>
>>2911698
Texas Lecias make my peter unwind. Too bad they're still almost as much as their tinier counterparts.

Found a Land Camera at a relatives house this past weekend in the mountains. Took the corroded batteries out all by myself and made it sparkle and glisten again in the moonlight. However I don't think it's exposing indoors correctly even after replacing the batteries, good thing pack film is a fortune.

Now my images will actually have some worth to them. Thanks Fujifilm!
>>
>>2911704
Are you high?
You sound like you're high...
>>
>>2911704
Texas Leica has become dirt cheap. Usually the do not cost more than 600 in decent condition.
>>
i would like to get a fully mechanical 35mm slr with either m42 or k-mount. i want it to work without batteries (they may be used for a lightmeter). any ideas?
>>
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>>2911736
This question appears in every other film thread and the answer invariably is Praktica MTL 5B or some pentax for M42 followed by that one guy who heckles on the praktica. Let the cycle commence.
>>
>>2911585
I always had them for that plugin. How to make them disappear?
>>
>>2911741
This slav also enjoys dildoing with cactus branches, watering down his beer with bleach, listening to hair metal.
If you'd consider this person to have an informed understanding of what a "good" camera is, knock yourself out.
In countries where the electricity works 24 hrs a day and nobody has to eat turnips to survive, you can instead buy a camera made to compete in an open marketplace, rather than suffice in a command economy.
To meet your arbitrary requirements, I would suggest any M42 mount Fujica SLR.
>>
>>2911732
Including postage, I paid $435 AUD.
I was very surprised when looking to discover that some of the very oldest ones come with normal fucking shutters with a Bulb mode, rather than the awful Time mode that most of them have.
So I got one of those.
It was a toss up between going for that, or getting a mk2 or mk3 and getting a hotshoe, shutter locks and the nice buttons to lock the spools in, as well as a much newer camera.
But the Time shutter really is that fucking annoying.
>>
>>2911512
>>2911516
>>2911527
yes, that's me. thanks, I'll try to scan them later today :3
>>
Has the quality of budget b&w film changed much in the last two decades?
When I look at pictures from ~1997 they seem much fuzzier and noisier.
>>
>>2911790
Real scans didn't exist back then.
Also, this is an absolutely moronic proposition, and useless without pics to describe what you're failing to in text.
>>
>>2911815
Thanks for answering, rude anon~
>>
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>>2911779
I need more practice and a macro ring
>>
>>2911848
Good job, 4 and maybe 5 look like they'd make cool prints! Keep it up!
>>
>>2911894
>>>/hugbox/
>>2911848
kys fgt
>>
>>2911901
:///
>>
>>2911741
Tfw my dad gave me his praktica mtl3 with the pentacon 50mm 1.8 but the blades on the lens are stuck and I've no idea if the camera still works, it still has an undeveloped half shot roll in it from the early 90's.
>>
>>2911990
wind the roll back and get the film developed, if it's bw the images will be intact, if it's colour, well, it'll be better'n nothing. The blades might be stuck for a number of reasons easy to diagnose but not through a 4chan thread.
>>
>>2911993
Would it be worth finishing the roll off first? Could be interesting to have a roll with pictures spanning 25+ years on it, provided it's not been degraded completely by background radiation.
>>
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>>2911995
"background radiation" is an offensively idiotic urban legend propagated by uneducated (basic physics, pls) cretins. I personally found and developed an undeveloped roll of film shot in ~'75 that spent the last 40 years in sawdust on a windy, uninsulated wooden attic, subjected to summer heatwaves and winter frost.
Apart from the fact it was shot on a shitty rapid system camera by a schoolboy, save for some uniform fogging, it was perfectly fine.

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>>
>>2912002
>square frames
Which camera was this? Always been curious about the Robot cameras, but they aren't exactly cheap.
>>
>>2912014
sorry anon, entirely wrong hemisphere and system. akin to 126, these were mostly idiotproof fixed focus box camera-tier point&shoots.

http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/SL_System
>>
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>>2911574
>Have you developed anything from it yet?

No, not yet. Going through the second roll of Ektar 100 right now. The camera however seems to work really smooth - which is fantastic. I am already in love with the ME..

>extremely small
>fuckhuge viewfinder (bigger than the VF of any current Nikon Camera (9including the F6))
>built like a tank
>all black; perfect for stealthy shots
>very nice brassing going on
>very high quality and durable shutter curtain (no cheap cloth curtain)
>and so on

I can highly recommend this nifty little SLR.

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>>
>>2912038
Cute idea with the XE-1! Does it get much of a reaction?
>>
>>2912063
not my pic, anon.
>>
For how many years can exposed film sit in a camera before it goes bad? If I found a camera with decades old film in it, could it be developed? I'm asking because I was looking at an old camera that belonged to my grandpa, and my dad popped open the back, exposing the film.
>>
>>2912038
how to manually set the shutter speed on pentax me? it seems like it has only auto mode
>>
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>>2912079
You can't. You can only choose en even exposure, -1, -2, +1 or +2. You can also fuck around with the ASA dial but that's another story. Get the 'ME Super' if you really need a manual mode.

The OG ME offers three modes;
>Auto
>Bulb
>fixed 1/100, which also works without batteries

But then, I don't miss that fully manual mode at all as I can easily compensate the value by choosing the over/underexposure option.

Feel free to overexpose a stop or even two when shooting good film like Ektar 100 or Portra 160 as you can easily fix that in post without losing 'data' in the highlights. These filme are very forgiving.

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>>2912072

Not trying to be a smart ass, but Google it.

* There are shops that specialize in processing old film. You'll need them if it's old color film. Especially if it's color film from a process no longer supported (i.e. C22).

* If it's B&W and you're good at developing your own B&W you could try it yourself. But you'll want to search and see how other people have souped old B&W film to get a printable image.
>>
>>2912072
Did you close the back immediately? With good luck you only ruined the most recent part of the film, with bad luck it's completely gone.

There may well be some pictures on it, just get it developed. If it comes out blank, you only lost like €7 (unless you bring it into a special place the other anon was talking about).
>>
>>2912170
No, my dad was drunk and pulled out all the film on the pretext that is was bad because it was old. We had a bit of a row and I actually ended up leaving. On the plus side, I ended up talking to him today, and he told me that my grandfather never bulk-rolled film, so the shots probably belonged to my dad or one of his brothers. Not as big of a loss as I originally thought. Thanks for the feedback.

>>2912157
Yeah, my bad, normally I am more conscientious about that.
>>
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is this a bad scan, bad film or am i shit?

just getting started with film, need advice.

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>>2912302
The film is fine, the scan is bad, you are shit. You focused on the twig, not on the concrete ornament thing.
If you want quality results, scan your film yourself. If you want to know how, read this thread, or the other film scanning thread.
>>
>>2910407
A E S T H E T I C
>>
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I fucked up the focus but apart from that how did I do? Im new so advice pls

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>>2912362

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>>2912364

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>>2912367
I think this turned out okay given I dont have a macro

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>>2912364
>>2912367
Pro tip: Wait for a train
>>
>>2912189
>Yeah, my bad, normally I am more conscientious about that.

No worries...that's why I started off with "not to be a smart ass." I was telling you to Google it to get more/better info then I could deliver in a post. I really wasn't trying to be all "hurr durr google."
>>
>>2911698
why do you need 2 bronica s2s?
>>
>>2912362
>I fucked up the focus but apart from that how did I do?
>>2912364
>>2912367
>>2912368
I don't know mate, how did you do?
Would you ever hang one of these on a wall?
Do they speak to any deep and personal part of yourself?
Would you even hit like if any of these showed up in your facebook feed posted by someone you don't want to bang?
>if the answer to every single one of these is no, you probably wasted a shitload of time and money to take these photos and share them with us
>>
>>2912380
One comes with a 75mm and prism, one comes with a 200mm and wlf. 2 backs, for all the reasons you'd want 2 backs, 2 bodies doubles my chances of getting one with accurate mirror alignment and shutter timing.
They don't have any more depreciation to do, at least until the plug finally gets pulled on 120 film, so I'd say I'm sitting pretty in case I want to sell them.
>>
>>2911288
>>2911538
Not that anon but where do you guys go to get film for cheap? I've had no luck other than some mong who was selling C200 for about a dollar a roll if you bought 20 of them. Of course it was expired at only 12 exposures but the colors still looked great.
>>
So I bought a developing tank, developer and fixer. I was told that is all I need. No bag... I am going to do black and white to start but I'm nervous as fuck about ruining my shots. Any advice on first time mistakes and things to be wary of? I'm pretty darn excited.... just nervous
>>
>>2912460
I'd get a bag unless you are sure you can block out all light in one of the rooms of your house
>>
>>2912460
there's not much you can fuck up with B&W really, jut follow the instructions step by step and you'll be fine
>>
>>2912460
Be careful without a bag anon. The film needs loading in complete darkness otherwise it'll be ruined. It's doable if you're smart about it, but be careful with it.
>>
>>2912460
use dish soap for the final bath and water + vinegar between developer and fixer
>>
>>2912460
You'll be fine, find the darkest room in your house, preferably one with no windows or a small window. Cover the window and seal all light (otherwise wait until night). Get used to loading film on the reel and make sure you have a pair of scissors at hand to cut the film.

If you're having problems with light use a towel to block the door frame if there's a gap or PVC tape from the sides. Turn off any wall sockets/electrical items with lights.
If you're looking for a cheap way to block out light then card/foil works well over windows with water.
Hunching yourself over under a duvet/thick blanket away from the light also works well.

You'l literally be fine as long as there's barely any light and you're not shooting a super high ISO film. also do this if you want, but it's not 100% necessary >>2912485
>>
>>2912485
>>2912499

Vinegar part is completely useless. Water is enough stop bath.
>>
>>2912460
Sacrifice a child to Molech to ensure sufficient darkness for your dev.
>>
>shot a roll with the xpan
>held off on developing for a few days
>finish developer and rinse in sink
>use stop bath
>empty and open tank for a second in full light
fml desu
>>
>>2912516
hmm that's probably true. I always used it bc that's how my teacher taught me
>>
>>2912525
It really depends on the developer tbqh. Something like CMS 20/Adotech really, really needs a stop bath. Most others don't.
>>
>>2912524
So what?
Fix and wash, retard.
>>
>>2912528
I fixed, I washed. It was too late.
>>
>>2912524
>for a second
probably no big deal
>>
Tips/recipes for developing Delta 3200 with HC110? I've shot three rolls of it, one isn't that important so I'll test on it and if I don't like the results, I'll get the other two done elsewhere with a different developer, most likely Microphen.

I like a contrasty and grainy Daido look. Everyone online is saying Delta 3200 sucks in HC110, but then again, people seem to be going for a different aesthetic in general.
>>
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>>2912530
>>2912529
Completely nuked. First time I ever did that.

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>>2912529
Too late for what?
I think your x-pan is fucked and you're hoping it's just you failing at dev.
Also, what is an xpan roll, like 10 shots? Go shoot another one.
>>
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>>2912536
>I think your x-pan is fucked and you're hoping it's just you failing at dev.
kek, what? Is that something you regularly fear?

The only change to the process was that I processed during daytime (not an issue) and I opened the tank like a retard (big issue).
Here, have this roll of my dog taken after your post :3c

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>>2912460
Just use whatever room you can with no windows. One house I lived in I used a roommates's walk-in closet. Another house I lived in I used a bathroom. Just shove a towel under the door and you should be fine. Good luck!

Last month I posted in the fgt thread after grabbing a 5 pack of Provia asking for some tips. Got some helpful comments and shot through the 5 rolls pretty quickly. Gotta say I'm in love with the stuff. Got some more Provia in both 100 and 400 coming my way in the mail already.

1/2 think I may want to grab a warning filter for these types of shots in the future.

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2/2 these may not be that sharp due to weird compression. Edited and downsized on my phone cause my computer has given up the ghost.

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>>2912552
you can open the tank after developing you dumb nigga
>>
>>2912566
wheres this?
>>
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Got picture related for $45. Everything is in working order. How well did I do?
>>
>>2912595
pretty good, don't use those conversion lenses tho
>>
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>>2911285
>>
>>2912567
really nice m8

what camera did you use?
>>
>>2912598
not him but I wanna know about why not to use em
>>
>>2912623

Degrades picture quality a lot.
>>
>>2912518
Can confirm, have given Molech regular sacrifices (sometimes twice per day), self-devs load fine
>>
>>2912623
Decreases IQ and can cause wild CA
>>
Thoughts on Arista 400 as a film for a beginner? I've read it's pretty much rebranded Tri-X. I'm about to pull the trigger and order 30 rolls so I want to be sure I'm not making any huge mistake.
>>
>>2912743
Nah, that's arista premium, which isn't sold anymore. normal arista is a budget film like kentmere or foma
>>
>>2912463
Two ways to fuck up:

1) accidently expose your film during the process like >>2912524

2) fix before you dev (eg, wrong bottle)

Most other errors are recoverable ; for example I have overdeveloped film that was seriously overexposed - prints are grainy, but acceptable.
>>
>>2911757
>But the Time shutter really is that fucking annoying
How so? Time is easier if you don't have a release cable, and identical if you do.
Maybe a matter of habit, but it's definitely not a serious reason.

Now, the fucking screw you have to unscrew to use Time on a Bronica, that's a bummer.
>>
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>>2912595
It's a pretty decent camera. Pic related. Sharp + contrasty.

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>>
considering a Fuji GW690 (6x9 medium format rangefinder), want something that will print monstrously huge/detailed without being completely cumbersome.

is MF even worth it now? it seems like good scans won't give results much better than my D810, and I'd have to print optically to do better?
>>
>>2912566
>dat 400 provia
Did you buy from Macodirect?
I want it. but my jew nature won't allow me to pay 15 euro + shipping + dev for 8 shots.
Esp when the whole point of a 400 film to is to enable more candid shooting, and thus risk more wasted shots.
>>
>>2912595
Neat, I think the premium is justified when you get such a complete kit.
>>2912708
>>2912644
>>2912623
>>2912598
Ignore these assclowns. Genuine Nikon conversion lenses are going to be multicoated and designed to work perfectly.
I would love to see some portrait shots with the tele lense attached, I've always said the L35AF was best suited to portraiture due to the lenses' rendering style in the first place.
>>
I've just seen a Minolta TC-1 go for $470 on ebay.. people are fucking retarded these days.

First, they hyped the Canonet QL17 and the Yashica Lynx, then they hyped the Ricoh GR. After that, they hyped the Mju II and the Yashica T4/5. Now they're doing the same shit with the Minolta.

What's next? The Lolympus XA?
>>
>>2912533
Man up and soup it. Delta 3200 in HC-110 will be less grainy than in Rodinal. I've got a liter's worth of Microphen powder in my cupboard that ICBA mixing because I've still got more of that yellow syrup.
>>
>>2912759
It would be the same if the Time setting on the Fuji was the same as that on any other camera (as in depress the shutter a second time to close it), but it isn't.
You have to wind the film or move the shutter speed dial off Time to close it, which are both things that will move the camera.
Which makes something like a 2 second exposure a total no-go, because almost anything you put in front of the lense to time your shot runs a risk of showing up on the film. So you've got to stop down to get your exposure to 8 seconds, but that might blur the scene too much, or give more depth of field than you really wanted.
>bulb is better
>>2912781
If you can print 6x9's optically, you're a lucky bastard and I hate you. But this is a troll post. If you can't find a justification for shooting film beyond resolution, maybe don't bother?
>>
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>>2912588
Mie Prefecture in Japan.

>>2912610
Cheers! Bronica SQ-A and an 80mm.

>>2912808
Grabbed it off Amazon.jp. it's not much more than 100F luckily.

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>>2912584
That's the only thing that changed massively. It's just one roll anyway and a little disappointing that I did it after so many devs without issue.
>>
>>2912827
I mean, I can enjoy the manual/film-ness of using one, but I want to have at least one reason to justify the pain somewhat rationally.
>>
>>2912864
How does the time function suck? I prefer it infinitely to bulb.
>>
>>2912827Just quickly put your hand in front of the lens before flipping the time switch back to end the exposure. That's exactly what I did

>>2912831
and
>>2912567
>>
>>2912870
And like I said, that works just fine in the dark, and for actually-long long exposures.
Not so much for a 2 second exposure in daylight.
If my previous explanations of the problem aren't getting through to you, you clearly have never actually done this kind of photography before, and I look forward to hearing your frustrated bleating and drinking your sweet salty tears when you find out what a dick around it is and you realise you've wasted $40 for Velvia/dev/scan on 8 blurry time exposures because you're a labdevpleb.
>>
>>2912827
>Owning a camera that doesn't have both T&B&1/2/4/8/16s options
Non SQ-Ai pleb spotted.
>>
File: NewerScansForP.jpg (3MB, 5936x3945px) Image search: [Google]
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lmao

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>>2912878
Wait, what camera are you using that doesn't have shutter speeds go down to at least 2 seconds?

Sorry you sound so salty.
>>
>>2912929
Oh wait, you're not even reading the thread?
>fuck off
>>
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>>2912926
ayy
Sadly for my perverse nature, the New FD 50 Macro (this shot) relegates the pentacks-M 50/4 (the first one) to the trash. Stacks more contrast and resolution, none of that flare you can see shading the top right of the first shot.
I had to use f/11 on the pentacks, and it was practically impossible to focus *perfectly* because of the lack of wide open resolution. f/8 on the Canon.
Canon really is the greatest.
What is amusing to me though, is that even on the much bigger sensor, right to the very edges they are trouncing the Canon EF 100/2.8 Macro that I used on the 550D for CA.

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>>
>>2912963
>pentax-m 50/4

How comparable is that to the original macro-takumar?

I've got one and I'd like to use it for dslr scanning but I don't have a good light source yet
>>
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>>2913008
I think they're all the same. If anything the coatings on an m42 one would be worse.
As you can see, it's not unusable by any stretch, and this is my very first attempt to use it for anything like this, really, so it could get better with a little refinement of focus and aperture selection, as well as more work to remove the source of that flare.
For scanning slides I may even prefer it, as the lower contrast may help to preserve the highlights.
This is a shot taken WITH the lense, as opposed to scanned with it.

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>>2912385
damn son you're serious about getting a working s2. also how much did you pay for the gsw690? im bidding on one right now
>>
>>2913038
go hard or go home.
gSw was last year some time, like $550AUD I think.
gw was $400AUD.
>>
Okay so i have a pentax kx and i have never gotten one roll of film devolped from it with out somthing being wrong. Now there is some issues ive been having with the film. Half the time im being an idot and not inserting it properly. The other half is the places im taking it to to get developed are saying its not devolping. It really sucks i keep missing out on great shots and i have no idea what im doing wrong. First thing that might be wrong is I bring them to ether cvs pharmacy or rite aid. Second im useing 2 year old lomography film that sat out in room temp for awhile. Then i stuck it in the freezer. Third my shutter speed knob spins completely around in a circle. Are all these things i need to look at? Or am i going to be cursed for life and not be able to devolpe any film.
>>
>>2913070
You sure you're loading the film correctly and it's catching into the wonder before closing the back? Next time keep the back open and crank the film a few times making sure you see it catching before closing the back.
>>
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>>2912827
While the lack of a bulb mode is my main gripe I have with my GW690, it's more of a pain in the ass than a show stopper.
Have you actually had any issues with shake or are you making up problem scenarios?
>pic related 2 second exposure on a GW690, didn't even have a shutter release cable

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>>2912824
Hasn't the TC-1 been coveted for a long time though? The Contax T3 is getting the most retarded, I've read the prices are up to a thousand already.

XA prices do seem to be rising. Paid a bit over €20 for mine with box and flash, now routinely see them go for over €50. Mine has a super dim rangefinder patch though, might not be worth as much.

>>2912825
I will, not yet though, I have other stuff to dev first. The two rolls I don't want to fuck up are some friends' gigs I shot, so might be worth it to use something else. Or not. I'll decide when I see the roll I test with. I'm loving HC110 though, super easy to use and I'm digging the results.

Here's some half frames of Tri X I shot last year and developed last week with HC110: >>2912942
>>
>>2913070
iktf desu I had similar problems when I first started using analog cameras. Most probably you're fucking up loading/rewinding the film. Do like this >>2913117. When you crank the film advance lever, you should see the rewind knob rotate, if it doesn't your film isn't catching.
>>
>>2913146
People always have shitty excuses for their shitty pictures. Usually they say that their gear sucks.
Nice snapp btw
>>
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Just brought an RB67 meme and 50mm lens
Upgrade from the KNEB 6C
What am I in for /fgt/s

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>>
>>2913146
Lol what were you doing in Bergen?
>>
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>>2913240
I live here, anon
>>
>>2913266
Me too...

Visited Stasi's shop yet?
>>
>>2913206
slaves to the gear
>>
>>2913213
you're in for wideness, ya big fgt
>>
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>tfw I fell

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>>
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>>2913276
>for the mamiya meme

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>>
trying here as well i hope you don't mind
could someone recommend me a nice 35mm point and shoot camera i can have in my pocket all the time that doesn't have a retardedly inflated price like the mju2, gr1, canon af35ml or yashica t3/4/5?
greatly appreciated
>>
>>2913280
praktica bca electric :^)
>>
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>>2913268
I work there several days a week, say hi if you stop by and I'm in.

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>>
>>2913282
Who do I ask for, Catsby?

Do you know if he still has the 8x10 Wista I sold him? I kinda wanna buy it back...
>>
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>>2913286
Don't know, I can ask when I go in to work tomorrow.

Just look for long hair, crooked teeth and a septum piercing
>inb4 septums are degenerate and/or millennial numale

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>>
>>2913289

Cool. I really regret selling it.
>>
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>>2913291
I was in the neighborhood and stopped by the shop and asked him.
A Wista you sold for 12000 kroner? Afraid you're out of luck.

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>>2913294
Yeah, that was the one. I guess I gotta find a new one online. Thanks.
>>
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>>2913296
Since I'm spamming the thread, here's a photo
>>
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>>2913294
Caaaaatsby Agat update when!
>>
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>>2913296
>>2913297
No problem. I'd have a chat with
Him before you look online. As you probably know he can be a bit grumbly but can usually sort you out with what you need.
Is that Romsdalen? Looks comfy.

>>2913305
Still working on it, going to try and get it done by the weekend!

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>>
>>2913309
I actually think he likes me, so that shouldn't be a problem.

It's from the Dolomites in South-Tyrol.

8x10 Ilford Delta, printed at some old photopaper.
>>
>>2913280
The Mju II can still be found for pretty cheap if you look around. I got mine for €40 in mint condition with original box and everything, see less minty ones routinely go for ~€20.

I'd recommend you pick up a Mju I tho. I just got one and it's really good too, the lens isn't quite as good but certainly adequate and I don't think it has spot metering. Cost me €10.
>>
tl;dr: is Kodak Portra 160NC expired 2003 usable?

So I'm doing an exchange at the Iceland Academy of Arts in Reykjavik (normally study at Valand Academy in Gothenburg, Sweden), and today when I was being shown the photography facilities I stumbled upon a big box of film. It was approx. 30 boxes of Kodak Portra 160NC medium format (something like 150 rolls!!!), all expired around 2003-2004. The teacher was like yeeah we should throw those out and I stuttered they should give them to me instead. I got a box to test shoot and see how they've aged. Am I exalted for nothing, or am I right in assuming the film should be totally usable although a bit lower sensitivity and contrast? Also, how should I shoot them for best results? Rate it ISO100?
>>
>>2913381
I'd start at a full two stops of additional exposure, maybe even consider three.
>>
>>2913297
terrible photo. why did you compose vertically? why include all that unnecessary foreground? I know shooting large format makes you feel like a serious photographer but maybe focus on actually taking good pictures with your expensive gear.
>>
>>2913384
I don't understand composition, the post
>>
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Is 30€ for 16 rolls of expired (some over 13 years but always kept in a freezer/fridge) MF a fair price?

Films are:
5x Velvia 100
5x Pan F
2x Tri Max 100
2x Ekachrome PTR (Tungsten)
1x Porta 400 B&W
1x whatever this film is
>>
>>2913381
>Kodak Portra 160NC expired 2003 usable?

yes it is. rate it at iso 100.

>>2913383
>maybe even consider three.

fuck off.
>>
>>2913381
Probably they work fine, shoot at 80 maybe to be sure. Gf got two bulk rolls of Portra 160 (among other stuff) from her school that they were gonna throw out, I've shot it at 100 with great results. I dunno when they were expired but they were refrigerated though.
>>
>>2913429
>fuck off.
Color film that's over a decade old and no reason to think it was stored refrigerated for even a significant amount of that time and hell, could be in like Texas where it gets hot as balls?

Shit could well be entirely unusable.
>>
>>2913406

that one is 64T, pretty sweet emulsion. get them.
>>
>>2913433

https://weatherspark.com/averages/27562/Reykjavik-Capital-Region-Iceland

>Over the course of a year, the temperature typically varies from -3°C to 14°C and is rarely below -9°C or above 17°C.

they are pretty fucken fine.
>>
>>2913433
>Even a specified place in Northern Europe is Murrica

Come on, man.
>>
>>2913440
Someone piss in your cheerios?
>>
>>2913446

im chiller than Reykjavik, bro.
>>
>>2913025
I like this a lot. It makes me think I should shoot the ground more now that fall's coming and there'll be plenty of leaves in the way soon. (Sadly my experiments with Retro 80S have always been more or less "oh, -2 1/3 is almost transparent? that's less DR than PANF+". Also light piping.)

>>2913181
Funnily enough I've not developed any tri-x in HC-110. It's always been Rodinal, and usually the 2 hour 1:100 semi-stand trick at EI1600.
>>
>>2912566
>>2912808

Is there a reason to shoot slide film and not negative film if you are not going to project it?
>>
>>2913522
it looks different
>>
>>2913522
shoot each and youll see the difference.

looking at slides in the light table = cry errytime.
>>
>>2913146
What is with the banding in the sky?
>>
>>2913559
Could be just the scan's quality. Could also just be the Aurora...those things get freaky looking.
>>
>>2913276
>>2913278
Actually it looks like you fucked up loading, dumbass.
You're only supposed to wind to the start mark on the leader paper, not to the start of the film itself.
Your memeya works perfectly by the look of it, the defective unit is the thing behind the viewfinder.
>>
>>2913281
see
>>2911750
>>
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>>2913481
>(Sadly my experiments with Retro 80S have always been more or less "oh, -2 1/3 is almost transparent? that's less DR than PANF+". Also light piping.)
Yeas, it does need correct exposure. It blocks up to *opaque* as well.
Also, I develop it in 1:50 Rodinal and suggest you do too.
>14 minutes; fml
It blocks up and gets too muddy in normal developers.
As far as the light piping issue, it certainly does pay to have a light tight camera, and load it in the shade.
I bulk roll it, and even though I'm using a "daylight loader", I do the whole process inside a changing bag, so I don't waste the 20cm of film at the end of the roll too.
But you know, this shit ain't checkers, it's chess.

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>>
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>>2913312
Nice. Contact print I assume?

>>2913559
Think it's just the scan. I pushed it a fair bit in post that exacerbates it I guess.

>>2913590
Very crisp, what format was this shot on?
>>
>>2913590
You got better scotch-tape fu than I do, to be bulkloading by touch. Point taken, maybe HC-110 isn't for every film (albeit the last time I used dil.H, and it came out fine. sometimes). And maybe Retro 80S, panf+, etc. low DR films are better used in a F5, what with the slide-tuned matrix metering and so forth.
>>
>>2913613
>Reply
Yeah, contact print. I can't find the negative though, which bothers me greatly. Might have lost it when I moved.
>>
>>2913381
I'm still shooting 160NC I bought expired 10 years ago. The area range 2004-2006. I've been shooting at 100 with great results.
>>
>>2913522
It's the same price per roll compared to c41 and 50 cents more to develop. Why not? It looks beautiful and I've shot almost exclusively c41 for 10 years now.
>>
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>>2913613
>Very crisp, what format was this shot on?
35mm, bb. Canon FDn 50L.
>>2913626
>You got better scotch-tape fu than I do
It's not that hard. I assemble the film canister to be loaded with a tongue of tape hanging out, and then stick it to the film and suck it back into canister in the bag. The hardest part is getting it past the felt, then you're home free.
Also remembering to rewind after 36, so you don't pull the end of the film out past the felt in the camera, and risk it pulling off the tape when you try to rewind.

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>>
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>>2913275
well its turned up and boy was I certainly in for wideness
>>
Took with my mamiya RZ67
>>
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>>2913872 Uploading just failed

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>>
>>2912533
My experience is that the time recommended by Ilford to process Delta 3200 in Microphen (9min) is too short and producrs thin negatives. I ended up with 12min after a few experiments.
>>
>>2913873
Left hand is cut off at a strange point, but that's a really nice portrait otherwise. Planned or is thst a random person you asked to shoot a photo of?
>>
Does FGT print their film snaps? If so, what printer do you guys use?
>>
>>2913913
pic related
>>2913873
it's like his eyes are saying "resize, fuccboi"
>>
>>2913916
>pic related

that print looks really nice. What's the exact printer model though?
>>
>>2913918
Thats a canon pixma pro 100
>>
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>>2913934
>>2913918
It's a Pro-1, niqqa.
Pic related is 100%crop of file vs macro shot of print.
>>
>>2913913
I go through a lab for prints. They offer inkjet, lightjet, and silver halide. I usually went with silver halide, a 12x12 print runs $15 which ain't bad.
>>
>>2913944
>€750
damn nigga that shit's pricey

How much do you usually spend on ink cartridges?
>>
>>2913973
I don't "usually" spend anything on it cos I only bought it last week. The inks are exxy though, $400 for a full set.
>>
>>2913789
Ah, see, that's why I tape both sides of the joint. 40 clicks of the crank and I rarely get to 36 anyway.

Heard lots of people recommending "theatre tape", and against scotch tape, but nowhere seems to stock it, so who knows.
>>
>>2914028
damn. Well might get one for Christmas or something.

Do you sell your prints too or is it just for personal use?
>>
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Slides came out rather light and washed out after developing. The film was Provia 100 that expired in '98 and I shot it at 100, would pushing development 1-2 stops help any? I have one more roll I was thinking about trying it with. I know next time I should expose it as a lower speed film due to it's age but is this even worth trying or should I just fix them in lightroom? Pic related

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>>
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>>2914113
example of what I was able to pull out in lightroom

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>>
>>2914080
I go 42, gives you about a standard Kodak length.
Gets to 36 even with my T70, which wastes 3 frames or something obscene like that.
>>2914105
I'll probably start framing up some prints and offering them around, but mainly I like prints as gifts for people.
Also, I'll be making prints for other people.
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