I've never been interested in photography before, but recently

>>2901973
any film slr will work for your purposes. I recommend pentax for cheap lenses. most color film is okay to shoot, various ones have different quirks so I suggest trying a bunch out before you settle on one or another. Kodak tri-x is in my opinion leagues better than other B&W films. Photography is an expensive hobby but can be made less so. Cost per shot with film, assuming someone else is developing and scanning is roughly .50$, obviously depending on a lot of factors. I'd suggest buying a cheap camera like a fuji x10 and see if you like it, or use your phone. Once again I'll say that photography is expensive, film costs stack up quickly, look into developing yourself and dslr scanning to get costs down. Marry lenses and date bodies.Should you choose to go digital at some point, don't underestimate mirorrless cameras. older lenses are as capable as their newer counterparts for most situations. That's all I've got

>>2901977
Thank you for this info. I was wondering if older lenses fit new dslr's. I'll be careful spending my money, and keep all of this in mind. Thanks.

>>2901982
I shoot nikon so I don't know about canon but with higher end dslr's, they can focus older AF lenses and can autoexpose for them. Pentax supposedly has good support for older lenses but I have no knowledge or experience with it

>>2901982
>>2901983

With Canon:

If you have FL or FD mount lenses, the lenses will NOT mount or work on modern Canon DSLRs at all.

If you have EF mount lenses, the lenses will mount and work on any modern Canon DSLR with full AE, AF, and IS (if the lens has IS).

So basically backwards compatibility is either all (EF lens) or nothing (FL/FD lens).

You can find great deals on Canon FD equipment. And that equipment has a classic or traditional design.

But if you're going with Canon and you want to share lenses between 35mm and digital SLRs, you want EF lenses and an EOS 35mm body. (Protip: the EOS 3 is a bad ass, modern, 35mm SLR.)

Note: you can adapt FL/FD lenses to mirrorless cameras, including the EOS M line. But you can only use them with stopped down metering.

>>2901982
the cheapest way to have a similar feeling as while shooting film is by using a good manual prime (24 or 35mm) on a Fuji X.

>>2902014
doesn't AV on Canon still give the correct metering for the set aperture?

>>2901973
As someone with a huge analog gear arsenal, I would advise against a canon slr
If you're looking into not spending hundreds on gear, go with Pentax or Minolta sets
Vivitar also made some great bodies(not the best lenses tho)
As a beginner you should go for a camera that has metering and auto exposure settings, I personally hate these because they normally require batteries to run and I've had enough cameras with ruined circuits to hold a grudge
I would recommend a vivitar v2000 with some Pentax Lenses

If this is your first foray into photography, and you don't know how light meters/exposure work I highly advise going film. Get yourself a decent digital camera and learn post production.

Getting nice looking images from film involves quite a bit of extra equipment (scanner or DSLR to scan) or a good chunk of extra money for good quality lab scans (usually $10+/roll + the developing costs).

>>2902017
>doesn't AV on Canon still give the correct metering for the set aperture?

On the EOS M with FL/FD adapter...

* The adapter locks the aperture pin so the lens stops down to whatever is set on the lens. This would be like locking the DoF preview button on an old Canon camera.

* In aperture priority mode the M adjusts the shutter speed as you change the aperture on the lens since that changes the light falling on the sensor. So the M is always calculating the corresponding shutter speed and the screen is always showing a "correct" exposure, even though there's no body/lens communication.

* In manual mode the M gives you an exposure preview as you change aperture on the lens and shutter on the body. So the screen might be black or white until you get within range of a correct exposure.

Really those modes aren't any different from from using an EF-M lens except that you're setting the aperture on the lens and not the body. And in low light the screen might be very grainy because of the gain necessary to preview the image with a stopped down lens.

>>2902051
>As someone with a huge analog gear arsenal, I would advise against a canon slr

If you're fine with a modern layout/feel and want to share lenses with DSLRs, Canon is pretty good because every EF lens ever made works on every EOS body with no hang ups.

The only exception is that you cannot mount a modern EF-S lens on any full frame body, film or digital. But there aren't too many of those, and none of them are essential, i.e. there's a FF EF equivalent for each one.

And if you're shooting film and digital you'll probably want a FF DSLR and FF EF lenses to keep your lens characteristics identical as you change bodies.

The Elan 7 can be had pretty cheap and is a great body. The EOS 3 is more expensive but is the pinnacle of modern 35mm SLR design (along with the 1v).

Now if you want a good old fashioned mechanical SLR you're screwed because all of those were FL/FD mount.

>>2902294
that's what I thought. Bought my gf some adapter for m42 ro eos with a little chip. It gives her correct exposure and AF confirm for some Helios.

>>2902594
*to.. mobile sausage fingers

>>2902594
Eh, my Elan 7ne went fucking insane when I tried to use a chipped adapter for a 44/2...

>>2902597
was talking about eos digital. adapter works really well.

>>2902621
same mount between the Elan 7ne and modern digitals...yeah, it worked great on my 70D, but the Elan shit a brick. The meter went insane, I couldn't change shutter speed, and the LCD just started blinking.

>>2902622

Something has changed in the EF protocol over the years. There are old Sigma lenses that will work on film EOS bodies but not digital, for example.

Anything Canon works with anything Canon because Canon knows what changes they made. So a body or lens can revert to an older protocol version. But others are left reverse engineering the protocol. If they don't test old stuff then they get fucked.

Note: the FL/FD adapter to EF-M mirrorless has no chip. It doesn't need one since there's no need for focus confirmation with a live view system.

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>>2903619
I've used a 2 year old Sigma Art lense on all of my EOS bodies, works just fine.
I think your main worry is "forwards" compatibility, not backwards compatibility, and I don't think anon is in the market for a 5DSR.
>>2902294
>The only exception is that you cannot mount a modern EF-S lens on any full frame body, film or digital
The EF-S 10-22mm goes on all of my film bodies just fine too, with the plastic baffle on the back popped off.
FF coverage from 13mm.
>The EOS 3 is more expensive but is the pinnacle of modern 35mm SLR design
Nope.
For that you want the 30V. The final film body designed by Canon, the only one with E-TTL-II, the most silent film advance, rewind and shutter of all of them, as well as eye control AF in any camera orientation and 4FPS continous drive.
Available for a pittance because people are morons.

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>>2903665
>I've used a 2 year old Sigma Art lense on all of my EOS bodies, works just fine.

Not a surprise since it's a newer Sigma lens and Sigma has put more time/effort into studying the protocol.

>I think your main worry is "forwards" compatibility, not backwards compatibility,

The guy I was replying to had a new chipped adapter that was not backwards compatible to an Elan 7. But that's an adapter company, not Sigma, Tokina, Tamron. Probably any *lens* you buy today will work all the way back. Chipped Chinese adapters is another story.

>The EF-S 10-22mm goes on all of my film bodies just fine too,
>with the plastic baffle on the back popped off.

Most anons are not going to do that. And you do risk the mirror smacking into the rear element on some EF-S designs.

>>The EOS 3 is more expensive but is the pinnacle of modern 35mm SLR design
>Nope.
>For that you want the 30V.

Are you kidding me? The 30V is a good body with a couple advantages (E-TTL II and silent advance). I would have no hesitation recommending it, especially at current prices.

But the EOS 3 is better in every other way:

* Professional 45pt AF (speed; tracking; low light ability).
* Build and weather sealing.
* Spot meter w/multi spot metering.
* Viewfinder size and viewfinder displays.
* Eye control focus in any orientation as well.
* Up to 7 fps AI Servo with the vertical grip.
* Range of custom functions.

The EOS 1v is truly the flagship Canon 35mm SLR. But the EOS 3 is damn good at current pricing.

>>2902014
>If you have FL or FD mount lenses, the lenses will NOT mount or work on modern Canon DSLRs at all.
there are some FD to EOS adapters, but i have no idea how well they work. the adapters also have a lens inside them so they probably won't work as well as they would natively on an fd body
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=995122&gclid=Cj0KEQjw0MW9BRDxtYTn2_S699MBEiQAw33y49M_gRXoh_6DykQkNwl1y1Kngf3h43CXDZGjhVddTxYaAp-F8P8HAQ&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051677562%2C&A=details&Q=

>>2903822
I forgot to mention the other massive advantage the 30V has over the 3: Based God Kenneth hasn't reviewed the 30V.
So I got one for $50 and the other one free, both with grips to take AA's.
Cheapest 3 that isn't beat to shit trash on eboi is $233 AUD