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Real Estate / Interiors

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Thread replies: 59
Thread images: 28

File: _98A1588-Edit.jpg (671KB, 1000x690px) Image search: [Google]
_98A1588-Edit.jpg
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Seeking suggestions and critiques.
Please CC

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File: _98A1630-Edit.jpg (611KB, 1000x724px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1591-Edit.jpg (736KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1642-Edit-Edit-2.jpg (627KB, 1000x666px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1647-Edit.jpg (852KB, 1000x795px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1597-Edit.jpg (490KB, 667x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1609-Edit-Edit.jpg (587KB, 895x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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File: _98A1755-Edit.jpg (636KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
_98A1755-Edit.jpg
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File: _98A1746-Edit.jpg (638KB, 1000x666px) Image search: [Google]
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>>
You may want to adjust your lighting. The lamps for example make the carpet look like some shade of mustard yellow while the sheets are still crisp white.
>>
>>2864132
cropped lights and bed stand thing are awkward
>>2864145
pan down to get bed and rid of fan blades
>>2864147
table in corner, and not parallel to wall in centre
>>2864164
pan down for bed
>>2864173
same as above
>>2864183
cant think of anything
>>2864207
either get very close to the door frame or include the whole door
>>2864211
this is sick
>>2864213
also great

Overall your photos are good at showing the spaces and what I've said is what I would try, not necessarily correct.
>>
File: _98A1749-Edit.jpg (559KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864222
>based trips of truth
thank you so much for taking the time to write that up, Anon. I'll put your suggestions to good use. Have another sunset shot

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File: _98A1585-Edit.jpg (700KB, 1000x703px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864218
>showed more ceiling fan
>left space in front of bed
>better lighting
Is this version much better than pic related in OP?

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File: _98A1578-Edit.jpg (485KB, 1000x700px) Image search: [Google]
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Should have panned down and got the front of the chairs, I know. My indoor pics were getting blown out by sunlight coming through windows until I learned a little trick from a youtube tutorial. Anyone want the link, just let me know.

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>>2864224
Thanks I'm loving these sunsets
>>2864225
I like this one more
>>2864242
whats trick
>>
File: _98A1613-Edit.jpg (446KB, 1000x666px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864267
>Window Pull using Darken Mode
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73BihbzpEio
You will need a tripod and speedlite. You're going to take the same shot twice and make a composite in photoshop.
First shot: expose for ambient lighting in the room. Your windows will be blown out, that's what you want.
Second shot: mount the flash on the camera, aim it at the windows. Manually expose for outside the window. Your shot should be perfectly exposed for outside, something like f/8, 1/125 sec, ISO 100. Take the shot using your flash so that it hits the window panes and blows them out.
Photoshop: import both pics as layers. Ambient exposure below the Flash layer.
Hold ALT and add layer mask to the Flash layer.
Now here's where the magic happens: on the Flash layer, change from 'Normal' to 'Darken'
Select brush tool and the layer mask on Flash layer. Paint white over the blown out window and watch the magic occur.
I get tears every time.

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File: _98A1673-Edit.jpg (607KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
_98A1673-Edit.jpg
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>>
>cutting objects off general

>>2864225
This is way better. Most of the other stuff looks amateurish because you cut off everything that is in frame. If you do that the room feels narrow and cramped. If the furniture has space, so does the customer. Compare your OP picture and the better version, in which picture does the room feel bigger?
Also try to desaturate your yellows.
>>
File: _98A1667-Edit.jpg (532KB, 1000x647px) Image search: [Google]
_98A1667-Edit.jpg
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>>2864367
Thanks. I see exactly what you're saying about leaving a little space in front of the bed and how that makes a world of difference versus cutting off the bottom.
Appreciate the tip on the yellows, too.
>>
File: _98A1572-Edit-Edit.jpg (1MB, 784x1000px) Image search: [Google]
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I messed up by taking this photo too late in the day when the sun was already behind the house. If I had gotten this shot in the morning sun, it would have been lit beautifully

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File: _98A1699-Edit.jpg (525KB, 1000x586px) Image search: [Google]
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I should have gone higher and panned down

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File: _98A1705-Edit.jpg (635KB, 1000x691px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864132
When it comes to real estate, things can pretty much never be bright enough. Crank those mids like your life depends on it.
>>
File: _98A1723-Edit-Edit-Edit.jpg (866KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
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Will do, thanks for the tip
This pool was greener than a Heineken bottle.

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File: 1466044807325.jpg (565KB, 1000x690px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864132

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>>2864469
Looks so much better, wow, what a difference. Besides bringing down yellows, what else did you do?
>>
>>2864926
Brightened the image a lot with curves, desaturated the yellows, selective brightening for different shadows to even them out, a fill gradient from left to right, desaturating and lightening the blues at the foot of the bed.

All in all it was 8 or 9 layers, with different blending modes and blend-if slider adjustments.
>>
you should pay more attention to the edges of the frame, OP. other than that very great looking images! got any lighting tips bro?
>>
File: speedlite.png (2MB, 1000x727px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2864944
Tremendous job. You have great pp skills.
>>2864962
Thanks anon!
>edges of frame
you mean how doors and beds are cut off or something else? I'm going to raise my tripod higher and pan down.
For lighting, I'm bracketing 3 shots with ambient lighting, then I do a flash shot with yongnuo speedlite bounced off ceiling. This takes really long time in pp, so I intend to add more speedlites to my kit and skip the bracketing altogether.
There's a guy named Wayne Capelli (pic related) who gets the most amazing real estate pics using a Sony A6000 with Rokinon 12mm lens and three speedlites. He gets ridiculed by the "pros" for using a cheap lens and a crop camera instead of full frame, but his photos are brilliant and blow most of the pros away, imho.
I was curious about his technique. He does all of his lighting in camera. Wayne uses a Camranger to wireless-connect his ipad to his camera. The tethered ipad works as a monitor for test shots while he repositions his strobes.
For example, say he's photographing a staircase like pic related. He has one flash on the ground below staircase (barely visible in pic related). The camera is on the first floor on tripod. He uses ipad to remote trigger camera and preview the image from where he's standing on the second floor holding a FOS (flash on stick) pointed downwards. From the preview, he can make adjustments to the flash positions and take more test shots. The end result is he gets almost all of his lighting in camera without needing to bracket. And he saves a shitload of time by not having to run back to the camera and review each time he adjusts a flash.
Check out his work: flickr.com/photos/interfacevisual
>>
File: outside.png (1MB, 1000x578px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2865049
I forgot to mention: the Wayne technique is based on exposing the shot for the windows (outside) and then lighting up the interior like the sun to match the exposure.
Pic related is another Wayne shot, he's using three speedlites, one on each side of camera and one above camera.
>>
File: yadontsay.jpg (58KB, 625x628px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2865052
Is he using any light modifiers like a softbox or umbrella?
>>
File: WaynesKit[1].jpg (450KB, 2048x1536px) Image search: [Google]
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>>2865096
Pretty sure he's just bouncing off ceilings and sometimes shooting direct flash no diffusion.
His gear is all about being light and functioning:
>three Yongnuo YN560-IV speedlites
>560tx controller
>Sony A6000
>Rokinon 12mm lens
$1,000 kit and it all fits in a tiny bag, pic related.

>Also shown is Nikon 85mm 1.2 for detail shots with bokeh and a Sony A5100 (mounts on a 12 ft light stand for exteriors) - with wifi control from phone (control zoom and live view)
more info here: http://photographyforrealestate.net/2015/09/14/wayne-capilis-sony-a6000-epiphany/
>>
>>2865096
Those would be pointless in that situation.
Even the biggest umbrella will be tiny compared to the room.

An omnibounce is pretty much essential though, just to get the wide angle.
>>
I think the only thing missing are shots that show the layout of the house.
Open doors like >>2864207 but a whole sequence going from one room to the next to "tell a story".
>>
>>2865352
I make a floorplan using 360 panoramas. The camera I use is called the Ricoh Theta S. It's small - about the size of a tv remote. You control it remotely by an app on your phone. Image quality is good enough for real estate / website
http://www.tomsguide.com/us/ricoh-theta-s-camera,review-3457.html
>>
>>2864284
thanks ill try this today.

Heres some more cc
>>2864352
very nice, maybe pan to left to get a bit more wall next to door frame
>>2864399
try get whole painting in frame
>>2864404
you already know
>>2864441
same here
>>2864442
great
>>2864461
also stunning
>>2865052
godly

these are great shots, literally nit picking.
>>
>>2865049
cool, thanks for the advice bro, I've literally just got the rokinon 12mm too lol
can you post an example of making a floorplan using the Theta?
>>
>>2865743
>floorplan using the Theta
http://bendfl.com/saintclairfernandes/
This is same house from the pics in the OP.
>>
>>2865096
look up Scott Hargis - he's really knowledgeable about lighting interiors. He has a blog with articles and videos showing his gear and his techniques for lighting with speedlights.
Instead of lightstands, he uses $20 tripods because they have a smaller footprint making them easier to conceal. He has a cool hack where he drills two eye pins into the tripod (one under plate, one at end of handle) to attach umbrellas. Once the umbrella is slid into place, a half turn of the handle locks the umbrella shaft in place. He uses bounce umbrellas as well as shoot through translucent ones. Often, he will place the umbrellas outside a window and bounce light in so it mimics natural daylight.
His flash trigger system is real simple: pocket wizard (or any other radio system) to trigger first speedlight, which sets off all the others (set as optical slaves).
>>
I'm feeling confy in this thread.
Nice photos!
>>
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>>2867807
Here's a better explanation of the tripod lightstand umbrella hack (pic related):
http://maliacampbellphotography.com/gear-lightstands/
>>2867820
thanks! This thread is comfy af tbqh senpai

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File: 12.jpg (458KB, 1000x662px) Image search: [Google]
12.jpg
458KB, 1000x662px


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>>2867843
Okay, you composed your shot and you've exposed the ambient for the brightest thing in the room, which are the chandelier and the can lighting. That's a perfect setup.
The next step would be to use two speedlites bounced into the corners to camera left and camera right. The corners will act like reflectors -- the light will bounce around and beam back into the space and illuminate the sofa and chairs.
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>>2867912
It was a museum
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>>2867954
gotcha. so the critique I have would be that it's really dark around the chairs and the sofa, particularly on the left side.
In order to maximize your ambient lighting, you want to be at ISO 320 or 400 and f/7.1 aperture. This setting will greatly boost the power output of your flash. You could bounce the flash off the ceiling or the wall behind you, making the light disperse across the room.
Another option is to shoot 3 or more bracketed shots (hdr) and then combine in lightroom or photoshop. Note, you would need a tripod to do this.
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>>2864242
This picture looks cramped. I would have taken it lower. create a sense of space with the perspective where the chairs are towering and you still have the window and table in view. On the other hand you could have taken it from as far back as possible like the doorway to create space in the photo. It looks like the size of a closet as it is. I do like the exposure and lighting tho
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>>2867990
Great critique, I absolutely get what you're saying.
I have a 16-35mm lens and I see now that I have been making the rookie mistake of trying to shoot as wide as possible. The 16mm images get distortion on the sides. I'm also shooting way too close to the subject, so I end up with warped perspectives where things in the foreground look huge but the background is shrunk tiny.
No more 16mm from me, I'm trying to stay as close as possible to 24mm. Supposedly this is where all the architecture pros live. 24mm is like a magic number for interior shots, Canon even makes a $2,500 tilt shift specifically in 24mm for architecture and interiors.
Another thing I'm working on is composing shots from the farthest away I can physically get the camera. For bedrooms, this means the tripod is just outside the bedroom door and the camera isn't even in the bedroom. For tiny kitchen spaces, maybe placing the camera outdoors and shooting in through an open window to compose the shot.
Same principal for exterior shots, too. Farther away and zoomed in at 24mm instead of 16mm up close. Even if this means I have to climb on the roof of my truck and raise the tripod up in the air with both hands to hold it high enough to look over any obstacles in the foreground
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>>2867843
>dat crop
>dat composition

what a shit shot
surprised someone gave you full critique on something pulled out of the ass
>>
>Twilight shot
In real estate photography, twilight shots are common with expensive mcmansions, but they also work well on ugly homes and for homes with an ugly view, such as next to a cement factory. Twilight shots minimize the ugly features and make a property look really warm and inviting.

The key elements are to get your camera setup on a tripod, be at ISO 100 and f/8, and try to be composed about 30 minutes before sunset. There's a free android app called photographer's tools with daily sunrise/sunset times and golden/blue hour times. Google maps to see what direction a property faces. If the front faces east, do a sunrise shot. Facing west, do a sunset.

Shoot bracketed shots every few minutes as the sky color changes. I stay in manual mode or aperture priority and set my camera to take 3 bracketed shots (-2, 0, +2 exposures). If your camera doesn't let you do that automatically, then just take a normal exposure, then manually adjust shutter speed down two stops for the underexposed, and up four stops (two stops to get back to first exposure + two stops from first exposure) for the overexposed. Keep the camera perfectly steady on the tripod, if you can, control your camera from a tethered laptop or tablet using USB or your camera's wifi (if applicable).

Here's a tutorial showing the lightroom workflow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmcnE546RyQ
For better technique, look up Mike Kelley's tutorials on twilight shots (pic related).
His website is mpkelley.com
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>>2868155
minor crop. thats 28mm. composition? what do you mean. one area to stand and see the room. its a roped off room at a museum
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>>2868774
>roped off room at a museum

if youre speaking for the picture, then its shit. just step back and make it the "roped off room at a museum
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>mfw real estate photographers have the nicest, warmest and most welcoming thread in ages
>i am faceless
>>
File: IranWatson.jpg (454KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]
IranWatson.jpg
454KB, 1000x667px
>>2868798
Please enjoy this twilight shot by Iran Watson in Atlanta.
>60D with 10-22mm, image cropped from original 18mm. Camera at about 12' using a tripod ontop of a Little Giant ladder. Camera controlled via Camranger and iPad Mini. Iran says, "This was the first time ever using the Camranger and I stumbled through the learning curve a bit. Can't wait to use this thing some more!"
>This is several exposures hand blended with layer masks in CS6.
>1) Ambient only, just before sunset and exposed for the house and proximity.
>2) Ambient only, a couple minutes following sunset and exposed for the sky
>3) Two 15 sec exposures light painting with a 750 Halogen work light, one straight into scene and the other at a 45 degree angle CR to light up the side of the home.
>4) Three frames with strobe pops from YN560II

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How wide is too wide? Is it ethical to use ultrawides like 20mm or 14mm?
A 24mm makes the the space look unnaturally huge but how else can I get a full view of the room.

I honestly don't know what I'm supposed to do.
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>>2871392
you could take several photos and overlap them in photoshop
(panorama)
it's automated now too
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>>2871392
20-24mm is good. My lens goes to 16mm, but that's too wide and causes distortion. Try to be as close to 24 as you can.
>>
>>2868898
>Atlanta
Gentrification at its finest. That house is probably in some hip East Atlanta neighborhood that was a crack town 15 years ago. Now all the old houses are being torn down a million dollar "bungalows" are taking their place.
>>
>>2872173
Isn't that a good thing? I never understood why people would be anti-gentrification.
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