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Anonymous (ID: !kurwaRB7YU)
DIY Rodinal b/w developer 2016-06-12 19:29:11 Post No. 2861943
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DIY Rodinal b/w developer 2016-06-12 19:29:11 Post No. 2861943
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It’s surprisingly easy and cheap to make your own b/w developers. ITT we’ll be making something that has the exact same composition and properties as everyone’s favourite stand developer, Rodinal. The stuff known for its fine grain and dynamic range compression yadda yadda.. It also keeps forever. Doesn’t go bad. Ever.
Using paracetamol painkiller pills (Tylenol in the US, amongst other brands), drain cleaner and Sodium Sulfite.
Only the last ingredient has to be bought online or from a chem dealership and it’s also useful for diy fixer (more on that later).
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We’ll be making 250ml – enough for 30 rolls of 35mm film. Same dilutions and dev times as normal rodinal.
Here’s what you’ll need to play chemist:
-A container
-Sodium Hydroxide (lye) drain cleaner. Little transluscent white pellets. Make sure to buy the cheapest generic brand sort that doesn’t have any fancy additives like detergents, just pure NaOH – check the contents on the label.
-Paracetamol (Acetaminophen) painkiller pills. Again, since the active substance is identical everywhere, go for the cheapest generic brand ones – some fancier ones have additives like caffeine, we want pure 500mg paracetamol pills. Won’t list brands because we’re a happy worldwide community and it varies by country.
-Sodium Sulfite (NOT Sulphate or Sulfide!) – Na2SO3. It’s a widely available, non-toxic (unless you try very hard) substance that’ll stabilise our rodinal’s PH and act as a preservative.
-Distilled/Deionised water – readily available for refilling pressin irons and a multitude of other purposes. Boiled tapwater will do in a pinch if you’re incredibly poor or lazy, but I wouldn’t recommend it.
-A means of weighing powders – optimally a set of cheapo jewelry electronic scales (ask your neighbourhood drug dealer) – in a pinch, kitchen scales will suffice.
-A means of measuring liquid quantities – more on that in the next post.
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[TRIGGER WARNING]
ITT we will be using metric quantities and you’ll have to do your own conversions into grains, drachms or stones/rocks or whatever it is you savages use, holy fuck.
You could get a graduated cylinder and shove it up your anus like the little faggot you are, sure (I have 2), but for all you normal people out there there’s a neat little trick to getting precise (ish) fluid volumes using only your kitchen scales.
The commonsense French devised their metric system around the most abundant substance in our bodies and lives – water. 1kg of water is exactly (ish) 1liter, 1000ml.
To check how much volume a container has, fill it up to the desired level with water, put it on your scales, zero (Tare) them with the full bottle, quickly empty it into the sink and weigh it again – the difference (in negative grams) will be your volume, in ml. Apply same method to determine at which level you get your desired volume (mark it with a marker pen) – and you’re golden. No need for fancy lab equipment.
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Here’s what you might also use, but isn’t necessarily required – a mortar and pestle (if you live in the middle ages holy fuck what is this an apothecary), a coffee grinder (clean it thoroughly b4 and after, obviously), a hammer and a sturdy plastic bag or any other concievable means of powdering your paracetamol tablets. Use common sense, improvise. We need to finely powder the pills to make them easily dissolvable.
>‘tog protip: If you can’t figure out a way to powder them, in a pinch, instead of wasting them on developer you’ll never use to make anything other than shitty bokehball/cat snapshits, ingest the 30 paracetamol pills, don’t inform anyone and enjoy your slow painful death of complete liver failure.
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These are our ingredients for 250ml of DIY rodinal:
-50g Sodium Sulfite Na2SO3
-20g Sodium Hydroxide (drain cleaner) NaOH
-30 500mg paracetamol pills
-~250ml distilled water
-a container to hold that shit. Optimally with a way to squeeze out excess air and black/opaque. Photochemistry doesn’t like actinic (UV+blue) light, as a rule of thumb.
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Step 1.
Use whatever means available to powder your paracetamol pills. Make sure the powder is fine, without any chunks left over. The pills are coated with an inert substance (my pills weigh 560mg, so 60mg of the stuff) that will form a clumpy mess in the final mixture – just ignore it. It doesn’t stick to the negatives or do anything. You COULD use an alcohol or other organic solvent to extract the pure paracetamol and get a clear (ish) solution, but that’s an extra lossy step and we’re going for simple home DIY. Be better than me and do it, by all means. I’m a piece of shit.
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Step 2.
Measure out approx 200ml of distilled water into your container of choice. Mine’s 330ml, marked the 250ml line.
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Step 3.
Weigh and add 50g of Sodium Sulfite, cap and mix/shake vigorously till as much as possible is dissolved. The scales turned off before I took the shot but believe me it was 50g. Don’t use a teaspoon for god’s sake.
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Before doing this step, read the next post.
Step 4.
Weigh 20g of NaOH – warning, NaOH is extremely higroscopic (sucks out moisture from surrounding air and gets damp/sticky/clumpy – avoid humid rooms or do stuff quickly when handling it) – and add it to the mixture.
[WARNING] Caustic soda aka lye aka drain cleaner is highly alcalic and WILL burn your skin if you handle it like a retard. Do NOT handle NaOH like a retard and you’ll be fine. If it does come in contact with your skin immidieately rinse under a running tap, neutralise with kitchen vinegar if you want your house to smell like vinegar for whatever reason.
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NaOH gets very hot when it dissolves in water – we want our water warm for the Sodium Sulphite step, but we don’t want the plastic bottle to overheat. This is an issue when we add 20g of NaOH to the little amount of under 250ml of water. To make sure stuff stays at a reasonable temperature, directly after adding the NaOH I capped my bottle and put it under running cold tapwater – and gently (that’s a lie, I’m impatient, but you shouldn’t) mixed it controlling the temp with my built-in proprietary heat sensors – my hands – till it all dissolved. Ish.
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Step 5.
Add that powdered paracetamol shit in that bitch. All 30 powdered pills/tablets/whatever. Cap, stir/shake vigorously for like 4 minutes or however long your ADD attention span allows. Not everything will dissolve immidieately. This is fine. Everything is fine. Ignore the fire licking at your feet, it’s fine. Shhhh, hush now.
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You’re basically done but the stuff needs 72 hours (3 whole days) to react out entirely – an excessive but useful safety margin. The undissolved pill coating may float at the top/change colour/look funky, don’t worry about it. Mix the contents of the bottle from time to time, help that stuff mix and react why won’t you.
After 3 days transfer to smaller container/squeeze out extra air from container/throw in glass marbles like a mid XX century chemist weirdo/in general avoid exposing your chems to air. Or light. Did I mention having the container light-tight? Well, it should. I used a transluscent one to visually monitor the contents.
Use like normal Rodinal, same dilutions. Mix/shake before use, the stuff’s got some precipitate in it.
My third world Polish ingredients added up to a whopping 1.31 EUR/ 1.48 USD for the 250ml bottle of the stuff, again, for approx 30 rolls of 35mm film. 1/5th of the cheapest store-bought generic Rodinal.
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what is the chemical purpose of the apap...?
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>>2861962
I'm glad you asked my good man. Apap is my brand of paracetamol painkiller pills.
The chemistry behind the process is reducing the paracetamol (brand name for acetaminophen) into para-aminophenol in an alkaline environment (thus the 72h) - p-aminophenol being rodinal's developing agent.
Here are the sources for my research:
If for some reason you can't read (???) here's a yt video tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPTv16e0HCk [Embed]
And if you're into ASMR here's one made by an incredibly cool dude who deserves all the credit for this thread's inspiration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOa6BocizxY [Embed]
And the iffy dodgy unconfirmed threads I got the quantities and info from:
http://www.apug.org/forum/index.php?threads/developer-using-tylenol-tablets.13214/
http://www.diyphotography.net/how-develop-black-and-white-film-tylanol/
http://www.drfrankenfilm.com/diy-rodinal/4575179217
https://jcstreetwolf.wordpress.com/2015/03/28/diy-rodinal/
Holy fuck just google tylenol developer or DIY rodinal why am I pasting these here.
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Coming up next: (if anyone gives a fuck tomorrow)
DIY stop bath
DIY fixer
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Very nice Anon. Here is your obligatory [this makes mustard gas]
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>>2861975
Please, it makes it so much easier to some. Plus it's hell of fun for all the family even grandma to make some chemistry shiet on a motorhome
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This is awesome, OP! Rodinal's my dev of choice.
Have you personally used it long? does it keep as long as regular rodinal? does the precipitate cause problems sticking to film?
very much looking forward to the diy stop and fixer tomorrow !!
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>>2861975
I definitely give a fuck, homemade fixer would be incredibly useful.
I personally wouldnt use homemade developer because I'm anal about controlling the negatives and I need perfect chemistry... (plus I'm not the biggest rodinal fan). fixer on the other hand, is pretty simple and different formulas have had no discernible effect on image quality whatsoever
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Is this actually enough cheaper than just buying off-the-shelf dev to make the effort worthwhile?
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>>2861943
this thread is retarded. rodinal is cheap, lasts forever, and a bottle will dev hundreds of roll. there's literally no point in making it yourself
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>>2862117
Thanks for bumping the thread you think is retarded to the frontpage.
>>2862087
That information is in the thread.
>>2862073
It keeps just as long and no, the precipitate doesn't cause any problems.
>>2862078
idk, you personally weigh out all the reagents - you can't get more anal about quality control than that
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>>2862093
its a high-grain high-contrast developer, imo it only works well in certain situations
or stand-dev
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>>2861943
Post this sort of crap on instructables or /diy/
Keep this shit off of my /p/, hippie faggots
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Sick thread niemetskaya kurwa.
Cyкa блять
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>>2862155
DELET THIS
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>>2862170
>Hey goyi, err, guys, save your shekels
>use this secret recipe to develop your own film
>muh grain, dynamic range, yada yadda
>Current Year - 40
this entire thread stinks like Shlomo in the 1970s
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>>2861946
Nice thread kurwa, upboated even if I won't be bothering with this as the ingredients would be almost as expensive to me as buying pre-made Rodinal.
But, instead of weighing water and fucking around, why not just go to the apteka and ask for a syringe?
Say no when they look at you like you're a heroin addict and ask if you want a needle with it, and you have a perfect way of measuring volume for only a zloty.
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>>2862266
what the fuck are you ranting about?
you sound like a schizophrenic old man who wears a tinfoil hat
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>>2862681
When you need quantities over 100ml you either need an extremely large syringe or you have to use a smaller one several times. It's just a lot more faff and we don't need to be that precise at these quantities.
That's to say, I do have syringes I will be using for the actual dilutions. That's why my container has such a wide bottleneck, too.
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>>2862861
Post your photos, Slav.
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>>2861985
>mfw filename
Nice job OP. I'm lurking the next series for sure. Better check those sources before inhaling mustard gas tho. This is 4chan after all.
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nice thread
looking forward to diy stop bath and especially fixer
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>>2862266
Fuck off, crazy
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DIY stop bath.
Ok guys, so since the stop bath and fixer are offensively simple and easy to make I’ll have to pad these posts out with some theory. (which is synonymous with you actually having stopped reading before this sentence started, I guess) You can skip this post and be annoyed at the idiotic recipe that follows, claiming it’s bullshit or something.
Developers work in alkaline conditions (pH>7). Alkaline conditions make the gelatin our photosensitive stuff’s suspended in swell and open up to all the developer goodness penetrating it with its thick, throbbing reducing groups. Acids do the opposite. They denaturate the gelatin (make it harder, insoluble in water to a degree), closing off access to the silver halides et consortes and stop the developing action, also neutralizing the alkaline pH which is bad for film’s long-term condition.
So what we want is an excess (over the alkali left in our film from the dev) of very dilute (too much denaturation baaad) acid that’s inert towards the chems in our film – i.e. not nitric acid. It’s to stop the developing action dead, bring the pH of the film down and then get easily washed out during rinsing.
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DIY stop bath
I’m sorry guys. The perfect, universal, seekrit high-tech stop bath is a 2% solution of vinegar. Acetic acid. That’s it. That’s your fucking DIY recipie. Post over.
It needs to be pure acetic acid in water. None of that apple or wine vinegar, just white/distilled/spirit vinegar.
We’re using vinegar because this is a DIY thing and there’s no point in using anything more expensive or fancy, like citric / tartaric acid, and you can get it anywhere in the world at a grocery store.
The only problem with writing this post is the fact vinegar’s concentration is wildly different around the globe. We use 10% stuff but apparently in the US that’s washing-grade vinegar. I could just fire off several mixing instructions for various volumes and quantities but, well, fuck you. Do your own thinking.
There’s this wonderful honestly magic thing called a Pearson’s Square. Way of calculating how much of what to add together to get a desired final concentration. This pic explains it well enough I hope. We’ll go through one example just to be sure:
We have 10% vinegar and 0% distilled water. We want 1 liter of 2% stopper.
10% 2 (|0-2|) Vinegar
2%
0% 8(|10-2|) Distilled water.
So for 1l of stop bath we mix 2 parts 10% vinegar with 8 parts distilled water. Or, 2/10 (2+8) vinegar so 0,2 x 1000ml = 200ml vinegar and 8/10 (0,8 x 1000 = 800ml) distilled water. Will work with any units of quantity, volume, etc. If you’re still confused kill yourself or post your local vinegar concentration and I’ll do basic grade-school maths for you.
Honestly since we use tapwater for rinsing I make mine out of boiled water and vinegar, no need to waste distilled water on this. It’s a one-time-use solution. Keeps forever, obviously, nothing to spoil in there. Add stop bath, swish around a bit, pour out, rinse as usual. Braindead.
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DIY fixer. This is what you lot really want don’t you. It’s marginally more exciting that the stop bath, promise.
So you’ve gone and listened to a random person online and followed their instructions to make a thick dodgy soup that’s supposed to be a real developer. Good on ya, don’t read any emails from Nigerians. Now you’re left with this weird-smelling boring white Sodium Sulfite powder like a doofus. What better way to use it up than by buying another chemical reagent some Pole tells you to, online.
Nearly every fixer uses hypo, aka sodium thiosulfate. Mix 250g of that for 1l of hypo. That’s it. But the stuff doesn’t like acidic environment – it breaks down into elemental sulphur among other things. Bad for your fixer. And after all the dodgy DIY stop baths there’ll be some acidity to your rinsed film. That’s where Sodium Sulfite comes in, saving the day with its preservative properties, buffering the pH of the fixer making it last months on end.
Sodium Thiosulfate is used in so many applications getting a kilogram (pound?) of the stuff online really shouldn’t be difficult anywhere in the civilised world. It’s sold as a pentahydrate (crystals formed with water molecules) so you’re paying for one part desired chem five parts water. Oy vey. You can get the dehydrated stuff but it usually costs way more. It’s mostly inert, doesn’t like air/moisture and sun (that’s a lie but it’s a good habit to hide any chems you have from the elements, like little pet vampires), you can eat a spoonfull safely and not die the death your stupidity merits.
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DIY fixer actual useful post.
Ingredients:
250g Sodium Thiosulfate (also spelled Thiosulphate) Na2S2O3 (pentahydrate) (Na2S2O3•5H2O)
45g Sodium Sulfite
Distilled (don’t skimp out on this) water up to 1l
Instructions:
Fill desired container with ~800ml distilled water.
Add 250g of Sodium Thiosulfate. Be surprised the bottle gets colder. Unlike NaOH, dissolving hypo in water requires energy and lowers the solution’s temperature. Mix till it all dissolves and warm it up to room temperature.
Add 45g of Sodium Sulfite. Mix till it dissolves, top off the solution up to 1l with remaining distilled water.
Bravo, you’ve just done did what makes up 70% of the price of store-bought hypo fixer.
So now some stats. The stuff’s HIGHLY reuseable, at least 10 rolls on one batch (with, obviously, increasing fixing time, eventually) unless you fix underexposed rolls of black people at night /w no flash. It’s a slow-working fixer, none of that ammonia-boosted rapid fixer stuff. 7 minutes at 20C with constant agitation is a nice safety margin overkill. It keeps at least 8 months (experiment pending) and you can just make a batch as big as you need for the time. That’s the beauty. Stuff’s immortal in raw ingredient form until you mix it.
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>>2861943
FYI: http://pseudosticky.wikia.com/wiki/File:1465762386937.jpg
I didn't actually link it to anything in the pseudosticky yet, but you could add a section and copypasta your text... or just link the image into the appropriate existing section ... if you want.
Or not. Eventually I'll link it in somewhere.
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PSA: So my batch matured, the 72h passed.
Spilled a bit when re-bottling it.
This is what happens when you let your diyrodinal gets to mingle with oxygen in the air. So keep your chems in an airtight container with as little air as possible. It'll darken as it ages etc
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>>2863075
didn't consider this pseudosticky material desu, these recipies are all over the net, apug alone'll last you a lifetime to browse through. I just needed external motivation to make a new batch and making a thread seemed like a good one :|
>>
wow this is so interesting +1 i will do this
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>>2863087
regular rodinal does that too, but its still good for a surprising amount of time after it turns brown...
>>
>an expensive and time-consuming way of getting arrested for terrorist suspicion
t. burger
>>
I'm generally a fan of diy but this shit is just stupid.
>>
>>
>>2863408
it was just a joke, relax
>someone didn't take his krokodil this morning!
>>
Oh, btw, if anyone wants to waste their time, money and film to feel like a special snowflake I can also post about Caffenol
>>
>>2863599
>>2863663
lmao
>>
>>2863254
Nah, but I could totally see people thinking you're trying to make meth, especially with Tylenol involved. (Though I think that requires the cold medicine kind.)
>>
>>2863599
Why make garbage caffenol if one can make good rodinal?
Damn I'm so tempted to buy a z-1p and start blasting film instead of digital.
>>
>>2864038
There is no good reason, thus the sarcastic tone of tne offer. Dunno, it's environmentally friendly, I guess?
>>
>>2864146
It's fun playing around, but I don't think I'd use caffenol
>>
>>2864146
Really really good shit on the rodinal and fixer thanks
>>
>>2862155
i wish i was as cool as you :^)
>>
WHERES MY PIC RELATED OP???
thanks btw
>>
lol anyone actually try this? sounds fake as shit
>>
>>2864528
>lol no u?
>>
>>2864528
>sounds fake as shit
you're dumb as fuck
>>
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Developed a testroll from the batch I made for the tutorial today, surprisingly, it does exactly what it's supposed to. Stand dev for 1h with 1:100 dilution, used 5ml. That's 50 developed rolls from the itty bitty 250ml batch, go figure.
Mainly posting this for a general chemkeeping protip:
If your dev is in a half-full bottle with a lot of air you can displace that nasty oxygen with propane from the deviously mislabelled "Compressed Air" cans used for cleaning stuff and dusting off negatives. Really prolongs the shelf-life of some developers.
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Have you tried processing your own color film? Is it just a question of exact temperature and time controls?
>>
>>2865363
Yep. "simply" that. People insist some leniency with the temperatures is possible and that a solid tub of water stabilises the temperature well enough to nonchalantly do C41 in your own kitchen/darkroom. At $1.80 a roll locally I just don't think its worth investing in chems and potentially fucking up my worthless snapshits.
The kits and walkthroughs and protips are all over the net and it makes sense if you have the discipline, time and raw amount of undeveloped negatives to bother with batch-processing them. I.e. a dedicated serious film photographer. Ask in the film thread, maybe someone dun did it thar.
>>
>>2865429
which part of "testroll" did you not get dingus?
>oh shit they're onto my ploy to trick them into making mustard gas, if only in my effort to lie about the developer working properly I didn't post a subpar fake photo instead of a better one
>>
Samefagging hard itt.
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>>2866073
stop bullying me wahhh
>>
useless thread
>>
>>2861943
rodinal masterrace for grainy sharp black and whites
>>
>>2869038
>black and whites
b-b-but anon, that's racist!
>>
I guess I have to post cos I keep seeing this stupid thread.
Pyrocat HD.
It's the simplest and easiest to make.
Kurwa can fuck off, chuj jebany
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>>2869214
Gee man, that's a cool tutorial and OTC ingredients list to back your claim you got there!
>>
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Very cool thread... thank you for posting.
I think I got the metric conversions wrong, though.
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Thanks for doing this OP
I'm also gonna try the coffee developer sometime
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>>2863001
Diy stop bath is 7 grams of citric acid in a liter of water
>>
>>2875893 That is pretty dilute, but for one shot, it's fine. I use 50ml of 60% (300gr to 500ml) citric acid solution to 1liter which makes 3% solution. Or 1 part of 10% vinegar to 3 parts of water. (If your vinegar is 5%, use 1 to 2 parts of water.) Both versions can be used many times.
Citric acid is cheap and odourless but has a disadvantage that mould can grow in dilute solution and spoil it.
>>
Anyone know where about I can pick up sodium sulfite in the UK? I'm not having much luck so far.
>>
>>2875889
What's your motivation for wanting to try out caffenol?
>>
>>2877600
Just to see what will happen
I have to get a 35 mm film camerfa first though so I can start playing with negatives
Right now I only do pinhole photography and I don't want to fuck up the exposed papers
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>>2861975
I give many fucks, will be looking forward to it.
>>
>>2861950
That's all very interesting but it would be more expensive than just buying 500ml of rodinal equivalent. Just saying.
>>
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>>2861943
na litosc boską...
>>
>>
>>2872308
What's that?
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>>2863029
24% !
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>>2878648
Kewl.
>>
OP i made in bucket and cat hiiss at me
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>>2879181
1 part vinegar 11 parts water.
so for 1l 83ml vinegar 917ml water.
>>2877688
you'll get brown-tinted coffee-piss smelling negatives with a whole lot of bother. Having used either I strongly recommend sticking with rodinal. Just finishing devving my third roll with the stuff, would never go back to caffenol.
>>
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last relevant update:
Without KBr addition the diyrodinal causes some slight fogging, at least with hour-long stand dev of fast-ish ilford pan 400. Nothing serious or something any scanner can't handle, but the base isn't perfectly transparent.
Pic related, dabbed a drop of silver bleaching bath from positive process chems to get comparison between clear base and the fogging.
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cba repost all this, ergo bump. the propane insulating method seems to work perfectly for keeping it fresh despite using it several times since it was made.
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>>2875893
thanks
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>>2861952
>-30 500mg paracetamol pills
time to cook
>>
holy shit kurwa you fucking slav cuck how about you post ACTUAL PHOTOS developed with your kitchen experiment?
>>
Can you make contact prints with large format negatives with just the sun?
>>
>>2861950
>-30 500mg paracetamol pills
Kurwa are you trying to cook pervitin? Make a vitamin C-based developer next time.
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>>2890478
only vit C developer I know of is caffenol and compared to diyrodinal it's pure aids
>>
how many times can I use diluted R09
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>>2865363
not that difficult but I tried doing in my school's darkroom where I had all the stuff I needed, fours sinks, a little stove etc
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>>2893444
Pyrocat-MC and PCTEA both use ascorbic acid as a developing agent.
>>
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Halfway done with the 250ml batch, should prob transfer it to smaller container to reduce "compressed air" waste when displacing air after use.
Latest use was with a diy reversal process, which was satisfyingly successful.
Anyone game for a diy b/w slide/positive transparency tutorial?
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>>2894747
post hi res properly scanned photos.
i know the messy slav meme is entertaining, but tutorials that cant fucking show the end product are garbage and a waste of time.
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>>2861960
how is that possible? apap alone costs 4 złoty
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>>2895155
That's because with apap over half of the price goes for the brand name and advertising. I went to a pharmacy and compared all paracetamol painkillers by gr per pill ratio and the cheapest brand is 1/3rd of the price iirc. Not to mention using expired stock if you know a pharmacist or clean out your medicine cabinet. There's always a way to cut costs.
>>2894857
By all means don't waste your time - if you actually follow the tutorial you might discover it's actually an elabourate ruse to waste a small amount of people's time and a small sum of money, oh no.
>>
Can this fixer process be used for paper as well?
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>>2903385
Yes, this is a universal fixer recipe, good for both film and photographic papers.
>>
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Two important rodinal updates:
1)It seems to corrode/destroy PET plastic, both pet containers I've kept it it became brittle/developed leaking cracks over time. Highly recommend storing in glass containers unless you use it up fast enough/transfer it to smaller containers as it depletes to avoid air oxidation. Pic related, bottom of my second container after 2 months.
2)A lot of crystal precipitate forms on the bottom - when I transferred it to two smaller containers I dissolved the crystals in some water and upon sticking a bit of exposed film in, it developed almost instantly.
p-aminophenol's solubility is 1.5g/100ml@25°C and we use a few grams of acetaminophen to begin with, so it seems the recipie gives a huge excess of our developing agent (possible future tweaking to use less paracetamol pills, cut costs) that just sloshes around uselessly on the bottom. I saved the dissolved precipitate solution to use as a paper developer (since we can't really properly quantify the sulphite and sodium hydroxide proportions anymore it might behave differently than the stock solution for reproducibility's sake, film-wise).
In the future may be feasible to collect precipitate and make up stock solution from already converted p-aminophenol via patented recipies rather than faffing about with pills - seems like a waste to discard the precipitate from each batch.
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>>2906314
Post photos, slav.
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>>2906314
kc kurwa
>>
ass thread with no photos is ass.
>>
>>2861943
this a good ass thread thanks senpai
>>
I'm going to post some photos I got with the developer, stop bath, and fixer I made from this tek.
This was Tri-X 400, just looked up development for regular Rodinol on The Massive Dev Chart and followed that then scanned it at home.
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This is Acros 100, on one of my first forays into medium format. Again, just looked up development for regular Rodinol with this film and followed from there.
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>>2909933
Is trix always that grainy
mf photos look pristine
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>>2909938
It's mostly my scanner, it's just a v500 and I didn't scan this at max resolution. I've heard they don't handle 35mm too well to begin with anyways. Good enough for my purposes though
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>>2909938
tri-x + rodinal gives lots of tasty grain.
>>
>>2909933
>>2909934
>>2909937
Holy fuck I never expected to feel this happy that my tutorial was actually useful to someone.
Try stand devving trix at 1:100 dilution (at least 4ml, though) for 1 hour with slight agitation every 10 minutes to avoid bromide drag (a small slosh to move it about is enough) - see how that changes the grain. Adding 2ml of hypo to the developer will also soften it a bit.
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>>2909984
Yeah man, this was the final step towards pushing me to develop all of my own film. I quadrupled all your measurements and made a liter of everything. I'll definitely have to give stand development a try with it as well. Very appreciative of all the work you put into it, thank you.
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Can you use expired painkillers to make the developer?
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>>2894747
>yfw you will never own an original kurwa B/W slide made from Polish painkillers
It's one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen.
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>>2910099
I don't see why not, throw a couple more in there to be safe. Can't imagine it'd really be bad unless it's like decades old
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>>2910140
I was thinking of going to the local chemist to see if they have some old pills
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>>2910141
They're so fucking cheap though, I got 1000 for less than $10
>>
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Stand developed these this morning in a 1:100 solution of the Rodinol I made using this tek.
1/2
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2/2
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>>2910932
Acros 100
>>
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Still ironing out the kinks in that reversal process (boiling down to lack of patience/being too conservative with some steps of the process), but we're on the final stretch now.
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>>2911992
10 bux says the censored frame is kurwa's dick
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>>2912066
I think you nailed it
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>>2913839
We all know how it is. You come home from a photo trip with a roll that you would like to develop, but there's one last unshot frame remaining. I know what I do in this situation.
>>
>>
Did anyone actually try doing this?? Looks fake AF.
>>
>>2920485
Why fake? You don't believe you can develop film in paralen pills? You'd be surprised how many substances can be used as developing agents - vitamin C, coffee, oak bark...
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>>2920485
there are numerous photos in this thread developed with this exact method...
>>
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>>2920868
>oak bark
way ahead of ya bruv, oak galls have more of the stuff than bark, though.
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>>2894747
>with a diy reversal process
What did you use as bleach?
Potassium dichromate or permanganate?
Did diy rodinal as first dev clear the highlights?
>>
>>2911992
>Still ironing out the kinks in that reversal process
share it anyway
>>
>>2923622
Dichromate bleach as I had that around from gum bichromate experiments, I added a bit of sodium thiosulfate (lacking thiocyanate) for the highlights (bit being very specific and I expect prone to change based on silver content of specific emulsions etc) with the first dev. My main problem is optical refogging and redev time consistency.
It's a barebones dumbed down version of the usual reversal recipies floating around specifically adjusted to the few/easily available chems I already own.
>>2923629
No point until I get 100% reproducible results.
>>
>>2923622
Which films did you find working best for reversal, btw?
>>
>>2923753
Ilford films (FP4+, HP5+), even with Ilford's instructions, are meh.
Which makes me suspect the instructions need some tweaking, to to be adjusted individually for each film.
Unsurprisingly, the best results *by far* (density, clear highlights, consistency) are with Foma R100, using Foma's reversal kit.
Except the permanganate bleach. This shit is not stable at all. And can strip the emulsion right off.
I want to try again with dichromate, I had already 2 rolls ruined by permangate, it went bad *overnight* (not mixed and left overnight, just the bleach and the acid bottles were opened (and closed) and the solution mixed right before use).
I realized and deved as negative then, but onviously they're too dense because of the antihalation silver backing that didn't get bleached.
I'll try to scan them anyway.
>>
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>>2923912
exactly why I went with the dichromate, the thing's immortal, used it 5 times so far over two months and it's as good as new. All the emulsions I used it on (tmx100, fp4+, orwo up54) didnt show any kind of damage, either. Reversal's certainly doable with any kind of bw film but results depend on their native latitude and so on, image quality-wise. FP4+ actually gave a very contrasty nice image. For some reason 120 tmax turned out perfect but its 35mm counterpart, despite being exposed in simila lighting conditions, had too little contrast. 's all about the adjustments and little details.
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>>
>>
>>2924053
Just trying it out. Slides usually have tight grain, punchy contrast etc., and I wanted to see how a B&W slide would look.
It's really pleasing on a light table, the only bad thing is you can't print it conventionally.
>>
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>>2924053
I've an old Leitz projector I really want to use. Instantly seeing your shots as over 1m wide projected images is very cool. I repurposed an enlarger to view the MF slides, too. Like giannis said though, lack of printing option's a butt unless you like the idea of getting large negatives from 35mm film for old processes like cyanotypes, van dyke, gum bichromate etc.
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finally used up the first batch, second one ready for the 72h maturing. I guess this wraps up the diy rodinal dev, as long as you keep oxygen away you're golden.
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wow most useless thread ever.
>>
>>2927249
http://im2.ezgif.com/tmp/ezgif-757896848.gif
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>>2927188
Graninal
>>
Bump for future reference.
>>
Bump for anyone interested.
>>
Bumpholio. EXCELLENT thread.
BTW, where can I get Sodium Sulphite?
>>
>>2936452
Ebay, chemistry supply stores (online ones with mailorder r gud), winemakers' supply stores. Shit's a byproduct of burning coal in powerplants, it's abundant and cheap af. Given its function both in developers and fixers, it's always good to have some around.
>>
>>
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>>2937164
glad to have helped
This new batch seems to fog the film a bit more, no idea why. Nothing signifiant, just annoying.
HP5+ stand~
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