Can anyone give me advice on focusing manually with this camera? It's a bit different than with a SLR especially since the AF-S 35/1.8 I use doesn't have a focusing ring.
Why bother? Sometimes AF is too slow, I'd like to just walk around at f11 and just know that everything in the shot is in focus.
Related, is it worth buying AF-D lenses? How about older ones that will fit the mount?
Thanks. Sorry if this question didn't warrant a new thread.
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D3300 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.3 (Macintosh) Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 804 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 52 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:03:13 05:20:13 Exposure Time 1/25 sec F-Number f/2.2 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 1600 Lens Aperture f/2.2 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 35.00 mm Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control High Gain Up Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
>>2791712
>Nikon
>manual focusing on an entry level body
Well, there's your problem.
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Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Windows) Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2015:03:14 16:30:26 Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 500 Image Height 500
>>2791725
That's what I'm sayin, they don't make it easy. Wondering if I should just autofocus on something 10 feet away or so then switch it to manual.
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D3300 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.3 (Macintosh) Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 804 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 52 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:03:13 05:51:29 Exposure Time 1/30 sec F-Number f/2.2 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 1400 Lens Aperture f/2.2 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 35.00 mm Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control High Gain Up Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
>>2791712
manual focus with a dslr is a pain, even with manual focus lenses
try using back button af
>>2791733
I have trouble with back button because I use my left eye to look through the viewfinder, and especially when I'm wearing glasses, it's hard to get to.
Is it possible to lock the back button for an extended period of time or do you have to continuously hold it down?
I have the same problem with my 3200
> Walk around at f/11 so everything is in focus.
Do it, then, you incompetent. M or A mode, set focus at 10 feet, done.
Manual focusing on an entry level dslr... Good luck without DOF preview, which your camera doesn't do.
>>2791728
The bike in that image looks like it's soft because of motion blur not missed focus.
Use an AF lens, use the distance scale on the lens, or learn to live with the focusing screen you have.
>>2791712
>AF-S 35/1.8 I use doesn't have a focusing ring.
Sure it does, it just doesn't have a distance scale.
> Sometimes AF is too slow
No, it isn't. You're too slow. Unless you're jumping from near to far, the center point on a D3300 is dependable enough and certainly better than fiddling with manual focus on a crop body with pentamirror prism.
> I'd like to just walk around at f11
Like the others say, just do it. f8 and be there.
>is it worth buying AF-D lenses? How about older ones that will fit the mount?
AF-D lenses feel like ass to manually focus. Also the 35/2D isn't as good as the 35 DX optically. Using a 35/2 AIS on my D3100 isn't great either; either I'm praying to the zone focusing gods, or I'm missing critical focus entirely.
>>2792325
>>2792282
so i'll just autofocus on something ~10 feet away then flip the lens into manual? seems like good advice
btw when i say slow i mean the AF will hunt in low light and sometimes that few seconds makes the difference.
are there any older lenses you'd recommend? i wouldn't mind picking up something a bit wider. tokina 11-16 is on my radar but i'm curious if there are any older ones that are worthwhile.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D3300 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.3 (Macintosh) Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 804 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 52 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:03:14 01:01:56 Exposure Time 1/40 sec F-Number f/4.0 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 800 Lens Aperture f/4.0 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 35.00 mm Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control Low Gain Up Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
>>2791712
>>2792363
learn to use it then famiglia. it's fucking 2016 mate you should know better than to blame your equipment
the DX 35mm f/1.8G is M/A, meaning automatic with manual priority
so when you half-press the shutter you should give it a second to hunt, and if it doesn't find it should be at least focused somewhere near your target. you can then finish focusing manually (also as soon as you turn the ring you can shoot)
it's also good to turn on the rangefinder in the settings so you can focus manually with more precision
also remember to use the center point and, if you want, AF-C so it's continuously tracking your subject and it doesn't lock the shutter (AF-S will keep hunting until your subject is static)
>>2792363
I think you should practise holding the camera steady or use a faster shutter speed.
1/40 is a bit slow for people, even if they're still. Try 1/80 to 1/125
>>2792980
sorry for being straight-forward I meant for you to read a bit more about how it works and you'll get a better grasp on how to use it better
for instance >>2791712, if you've used the standard settings (single-point AF and AF-S) you should've focused with whatever AF point you want to focus on, on a target with high contrast (such as the pizza in her hand) and then recomposed the shot or whatever
why? all points other than the centre one perform mostly contrast detection, only the centre point can really resolve proper phase detection AF in low-light
another example, here >>2791728 you should've used the 3D-tracking AF-area mode with AF-C focus mode again with whatever point you wanted
why? because the 3D mode does a splendid job in calculating movement and predicting correct focus for moving targets using all points available
don't be fooled mate the D3300 is a beast, sometimes we take things for granted nowadays eh
>>2792363
this one you just straight up fucked up though
another tip, turn on auto-ISO (you can easily find it in the shooting menu) and set your minimum shutter speed to something such as 1/60 sec and maximum ISO to 6400. you can then use aperture mode (A) as if it was program (P) and "control" ISO and depth of field with the dial
with ISO 6400, f/1.8 and 1/60 sec you can shoot up to EV 2 (that's dark as fuck, night streets are EV 5 or 6 or something)
but on the other hand you lose a bit of dynamic range
and you don't have to worry, 6400 is good enough to print up to 8" by 10"
pretty neat eh
>>2793006
for instance, this one is EV 3, and you used ISO 1600, f/2.2 and 1/25 sec, and you got some camera shake in your shot
if you were using the settings I said here >>2791712 you'd just need to adjust aperture to f/1.8 (don't be afraid to shoot wide open the DX 35mm is fucking decent), you'd have these settings: f/1.8, 1/60 sec, ISO 3200
so half the blur I guess
>>2793017
ah I done fucked the reference
>>2792982
>>2792993
>>2793006
Slick, thanks for the input anon(s).
Btw I usually keep focus settings on AF-A and auto-area AF. Is that a mistake? I've never really tried 3d tracking.
As far as prints, will 6400 iso look good in color at 8"x10" or just black + white? Either way that's awesome, I've been paranoid about going over 1600 iso, probably looking too much into the noise in LR.
I'll go out and take some more pics after dark, we'll see if I've learned anything.
Went out to smoke and took this. Actually looks pretty good for such a high iso, color me surprised
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NIKON CORPORATION Camera Model NIKON D3300 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.3 (Macintosh) Maximum Lens Aperture f/1.7 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Color Filter Array Pattern 804 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 52 mm Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 300 dpi Vertical Resolution 300 dpi Image Created 2016:03:14 20:59:56 Exposure Time 1/125 sec F-Number f/1.8 Exposure Program Aperture Priority ISO Speed Rating 6400 Lens Aperture f/1.8 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 35.00 mm Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control High Gain Up Contrast Normal Saturation Normal Sharpness Normal Subject Distance Range Unknown
>>2791736
I don't know how it is on nikon but it auto-focuses while the button is pressed. As soon as you let go, it's manual again.
You don't even need to focus on the subject.
Let's take the blurry bike pic. If you know where your subject is going to be, point the camera at the ground where they're about to be, press the button until it's in focus, then wait until the subject enters the frame and take the shot.
>>2793161
>actually looks pretty good for such a high iso
well it was taken at night after all
it is nice tho