What kind of Chainsaw do you own?

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>>983881
I meant do you have to buy a *specific* kind of oil.

Of course everyone has to purchase their own oil.

i use stihl

-it doesn't come with a storage container, when not in use i keep them in a wooden cabinet
-it is as easy as any other machine
-gas
-i use SAE30 motor oil for chain lubrication, stihl synthetic mixture oil for the gas
-if you have the money you can buy special vegetable oil but don't use a drying oil because it can dry and clog the oil pump. do you really fear you'll ruin the environment with some drops of oil?
-there are no pitfalls, chainsaws are awesome
-stihl ms361 is one of the best chainsaws around

>>983881
>What are the pitfalls?

Literally death, crushing, and dismemberment. Statistically, less dangerous than driving at least.

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husky 450 for when i need to cut real stuff. pic from back when she was shiny and new.

some home depot $70 electric saw for quick light work.

husky and stihl are basically the same. go with whatever you can get serviced most easily.

>>983881
I'm using a Husqvarna 550XPG, but i have a variety of the Husqy pro-line of Accu (battery) saws for work in sound-sensitive areas/weird times of day work.
the battery ones perform equal to their gas variant (but the fast charging LIion batteries are expensive).
I use Stihl bio-chain oil for my gas saws along with Aspen alkylate 2 stroke gas.

Honestly, if you just need to get rid of a couple og small-ish trees in your backyard you might as well get a 150-200 quid saw from the hardwarestore (or en Echo, great saws at a cheap-ish price)

You can use vegetable oil (can prolong the time before it dries with natriumbenzoat), but it's only a viable solution if your saw is running every day and are stored in temperatures where the oil wont solidify.

again, if it's just casual garden use, get a consumer-grade chainsaw, preferably from a brand that your local dealer/landscaping shop has, whether it's stihl, Husqvarna or Echo.

>>983891
The old stihls are awesome, the new ones are riddled with defects that just keeps on giving. my company and several other (including the school that educates forestry workers in the country) have had nothing but trouble with them.
Faulty clutch cups, desyncing of the automatic carburetor (and general shit-management from the firmware), the new plastic handles not holding up to commercial forestry etc.

if you can get your hand on an old 260 then great. but for the love of god sake stay away from the new 261's.
The larger saws are still decent though.

Stihl MS 361. 24" bar.
Yes
Gas
Yes
Low viscosity bar oil accelerates bar and chain wear. Shit storm debate topic.
Rent one.
>Protip
Gravity + trees is much more dangerous than any saw.

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>>983892
I mean the pitfalls of using the particular model. Like "Low RPM" or "Chain comes loose easily."

>>983891
No no my use of vegetable oil isn't an environmental concern, it's just to save money since the recommended oil is usually expensive brand-name bullshit.

>>984063
>buy several hundred dollar tool
>burn it up trying to save a buck a quart on oil
great idea anon.

>>983980
well i haven't worked with 261, what would you do with such a small saw professionally? the smallest saw i have used was a 291 and it was pretty durable for what it is
i have used 034 341 361 391 441 460 461 and i own a half old 064 which is one of the best saws ever. 361 and 461 are the best of the new saws
only husqvarna i have used are 353 and 357xp which were good but i still preferred stihl
i haven't used a saw with automatic carburetor yet

the new dolmars are valid too, the old sachs dolmar are awesome but obsolete, they are heavy slow and burn too much fuel and parts are hard to find, but they were built like tanks

>>984116
You wouldn't burn up the chainsaw by using a different oil, just fuck up the bar/chain possibly. Bar oil is just there to lubricate and absorb heat You can use any kid of oil as long as it's clean and it flows. People commonly use ATF for bar oil in the winter because it is thinner and flows easier in freezing temps.

I have an MS660. It cuts shit.

>>984484
50CC chainsaws are whats most often used for commercial forestry in europe.
you can take down a 32'' tree with a 15'' bar with ease if you know your way around proper techniques (general rule is 2,5x the lenght of the bar is the tree-diameter that's possible to fell)
the 550XPG can fit up to a 18'' bar (though i would vote for a 60-70cc saw by that point).

it's generally a good all-round size that you can use all day without getting tired from hauling around a heavy saw.
small enough for snedding and delimbing (fuck no if i want to use a heavy 60-80cc saw for snedding/delimbing) and still big/powerful enough to take on 99% of the trees you're realistically going to fell.
professionally you'd generally have several saws in the size from 25cc to 80cc, and a ''mid-CC'' saw for general all-round use.

>2017
>not karate chopping down trees

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>>984606
yes it is possible but it is slow and it's a load on the chainsaw. nobody here (serbia) uses 50cc exept when cutting conifers that have a lot of limb and are no more than 60cm. for hardwood the minimum i'd use is a 60cc, and ideal is 70-75cc
also you don't just fall the trees, you have to section them. pine, spruce and poplar are going to the sawmill but here all oak, beech, hornbeam firewood is cut into 1 meter logs and you have to put that in consideration, a 50cc saw with 35cm bar will be terribly slow and won't cut a log larger than 70cm, and some days it has to do that all day

i own only a 85cc 064 with a 50cm bar and i've used it for everything but it really shines with trees 50cms and up. i've also occasionally used it in small wood like black locust that was no thicker than 15cm, i have to admit it's very tiring but doable
i recently came across a 75cm ES bar and 98 link chain (49 teeth), haven't used it yet but i figured it'll come handy for some odd jobs, paid 80 euro for bar and chain. i think i should get the chain with more spaced out teeth tho because this one really put a load on the engine

full with fuel bar and chain it's 11kgs, yes it is heavier than most new saws but you get used to the weight. i have worked with a stihl 070 which is a killer, it made my arms fall off but loggers until 30 years ago were used to hauling it around forests and didn't complain
i'm thinking about getting a 361 or 441 if i can earn enough money this summer and leave the 064 for the bigger jobs

>>984723
I work in Utah and we generally use 70cc saws. There isn't much need for anything bigger. 60cc and smaller can work, but a 70cc saw will cut 30+" trees all day long without issues. Even 60cc saws seem to bog down and hang up a lot when used with a 25" bar. My preferred saw is a 576xp with a 28" sugihara bar. Balances very nicely.

Not OPEE. But I have an old craftsman electric chainsaw (10amp 120v) thing is awesome for working on the side of my house. Almost no noise compared to chainsaws. But there is a growing need for a decent sized gas powered saw for innawoods use. I owned a crappy gas powered saw. And it felt like my hands would vibrate off. So besides something on the lower weight end of things. But also something with good vibration dampening.

Trees ill be cutting.
Liveoak
Saw palm/ Palmetto Palm
Black cherry
Pines like sand/slash/Australian
Soft maple
The occasional Cypress

So what should I look at?

>>984881
An 044. Always.