Climbing General

>>873043
Climbing outside will make you a lot better. Also use more controlled movements rather than moving erratically. Downclimbing as well as silent feet are both great practice for this

>>873043

Get out and climb. Go to a wall and take a few lessons so you are doing everything right from the start and dont have to unlearn any bad habits. Begin with bouldering, all you need is shoes and a chalkbag and chalkball. Bouldering will teach you a lot of advanced climbing techniques in a relatively short time, then if you want to, move forwrad into sport climbing.

>>873043
If you're really serious about learning the fundamentals of technique and movement in rock climbing, buy The Self Coached Climber by Doug Hunter.

>>873043
get good by bouldering.
dont waste a lot of time on plastic.
climb everything. trees, building walls, kiddy walls
learn to traverse, learn to mantle well.
when I first learned I bouldered. I think bouldering has its own lessons and learning curve. you can figure out routes, problem solve, use a number of techniques to accomplish your end goal. just remember not every climb ends at the top.

>climb more
>attempt stuff harder than you can climb
>pay attention to your movement/sequence so you remember what works and what doesn't
>watch climbers better than you, ask them about what they wold do to get through a difficult sequence
>supplemental training (i.e. weights/endurance/cardio, heavy on the core)

>>873043
Just climb a lot. Mix up bouldering and lead climbing to get the best of both worlds, because the best routes always feature bouldery moves.

>>873333
>the best routes always feature bouldery moves
nice quads, but gonna have to agree to disagree here. imo the best routes are steady and sustained with a nice flow. i hate it when i'm on a climb and i get to a weird move that's significantly different in difficulty and character than the rest of the route.

well, "hate" is a strong word, but i find it generally disagreeable.

>>873333
quads confirmed.

Train endurance. That's my current problem right now. I'm a solid indoor climber (planning my first outdoor outing soon) doing v6's and v5's, but my biggest problem is endurance. And my goals going outside is sport and eventually trad and I can barely do 5.11s indoors. I can only imagine how bad I'll be outdoors

>>873566
>I can only imagine how bad I'll be outdoors
>comparing your ability to the abilities of any other climber
are you having fun? are you challenging yourself? assuming yes and yes, then you're not doing bad. and why set some arbitrary indoor threshold to reach before moving outdoors? make friends with someone who has the gear and knowledge and get outdoors.

>>873221

Already have it.
Literally the only climbing text I've been able to find that contains actual information.

I haven't looked at much bouldering-specific literature yet though. Seems like that might be worth looking into.

>>873576
Didn't think I was implying an indoor threshold. They're both different styles of climbing. I've seen great outdoor guys not do so hot indoors and vice versa.

But I am challenging myself and I am really enjoying this hobby. My problem is that I live in NYC so I don't have a care (don't need it) which introduces a set of logistics I need to take care of. If I had a car I would be climbing outdoors every weekend.

I am organizing a trip to Rumney in two weeks so I'm stoked for that though.

>>873649
I'm not sure what you're talking about. You must not be looking very hard.

There are many very good books covering just about every aspect of climbing.

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>>873698

Yeah, no.

99% of climbing books contain the same tiny handful of, at best, vague insights literally copied and pasted from the next book on the shelf. Hard information on, for instance, what discerns good footwork from bad footwork is practically nonexistent, despite the fact that this is the absolute foundation of climbing.

>>873171
>>873233
>>873333

I haven't been climbing before but have had an interest in it since I was a kid and would try to scale anything and everything.

How do you not fuck yourself up while bouldering? This kid came into my ER with a open humerus fracture, said he only fell 10 feet. Makes me somewhat apprehensive. I know you can get hurt, I just feel like that's something likely for me.

>>873677
i must have misinterpreted
>And my goals going outside is sport and eventually trad and I can barely do 5.11s indoors.

>>873745
learn to fall well. don't get unlucky. but really, think about how many dozens or scores or hundred of people go to bouldering around you every day, and you've seen ONE catastrophic accident. compare that to how many other traumatic injuries you get on a regular basis from stupid shit like softball and cutting watermelons.

>>873745
>How do you not fuck yourself up while bouldering?

0. Get lucky
1. Downclimb everything, always
2. Bouldering pads
3. Spotters that actually give a fuck (good luck)
4. Get over it

Climbing of any sort is intrinsically dangerous. You are going to have close calls, and they are going to be entirely your own fault. Whether or not those close calls turn into something more serious is not really up to you.

#4 is key. The fact is that you're on 4chan. Your life is not some precious thing, to be cherished and protected at any cost. You don't matter. Stop giving a shit. Even leaving aside the 4channer consideration, if the possibility of injury is enough to keep you away from something you've "had an interest in since childhood", your life isn't worth holding on to anyway.

That said, bouldering is the type of climbing that results in the most injuries. Don't do it if you can't accept the occasional injury as a matter of course.

watch neil gresham's master class

>>873724
Yeah, no, stop the spray and learn from the OGs
1. Royal Robbin's Basic Rockcraft
2. Ilger's Rock Warrior's Way
3. How To Rock Climb - John Long

Of course, a gumby's best resource is an experienced climber, but reading these and having basic knowledge demonstrates that you're psyched to learn and not some weak gym scrub.

>>873043
at the start, just climb as often as possible. I would say get outdoors a lot but indoors you can do a much greater volume of climbing in a couple of hours than you can over the period of a day at the crag, so mix it up. Really focus on balence and movement, that sounds arbitrary on easy problems and routes but it really does pay for itself in the long run.

When it comes to the raw physicality of climbing, training fingers and power (fingers especially) should be left till long after you think you are ready, since you are almost invariably wrong and will end up fucking tendons and having to take months out. However, more than anything else, for me fingerboarding was the single most effective training I have done. I could not climb more than once a week for a good couple of years so I bought a BM2000 and used it about 3-4 times a week for two years. In the end I was doing one armers on the smallest edges and front levers all over the place but I sucked at moving on rock. As soon as I could climb more, I good much better quickly.
N.B. I had been climbing for 3 years 3 times a week before I considered fingerboarding, since it is so tendon intensive.

Ultimately, none of this matters if you do not know your weaknesses, which is where an experienced climber can help you (someone who climbs well at at least font7B+ or F7c). Find them, work them.

>>873724
You're that one special case then since 99% of other climbers dont have that same problem with what's out there.

>>873724
I have a dozen books about climbing technique, none of them cover foot work

novice climber here recommend me shoes pls! mostly do bouldering and trad

>>874333
>we know exactly what shape your foot is
go to the store and try a bunch on, get help with fit from staff.

>>874335
mmm yea fuck me dad

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>>874319
I hate people like you.

>>874333
Probably slippers? My bouldering shoes are super aggro and trad shoes stiff and comfy, so marrying the two (for me) is difficult. Maybe try some 5.10 Moccasyms? It really depends on your foot, as previously pointed out.

>>874388
what book is that? or are you one of those faggots who hates people who are seeking knowledge but can't find it.

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>>874388
Let me help you.

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>>874551

>>874319
You couldn't be any more full of shit. Or you are a full blown retard.

>>874551
>>874553
same basic shit being spewed in a repetitive copy pasta fashion confirmed. footwork in literature is non existent.

come back when you find literature about footwork that doesn't concern beta tier slab climbing

>>874564
name one piece of climbing literature that covers

>two foot combo placements
>stalagtight
>toe hook one foot edge other foot

or

>high heel hooking
>above hand placements
>maintaining core to avoid interupting bloodflow
>using hamstring to unweight your arms

high heel to toe placements
>start on heel
>throw to next hand hold
>as you rock into toe
>as you contact your new hand hold your foot is naturally in position

foot twisting
>rotating from interior to anterior of toe

dragging toe
>solid foot takes load
>off foot drags laces to apply angular forces as you move through

foot technique is not discussed, not even in its most basic forms, all the books I have just skim the topic of footwork as if to just cover up their lack of it. If you can link me a book that has these techniques and other full body movements common in climbing, rather than arbitrary beta cuck slab bullshit, I'll post climbing guide PDFs

I'm climbing v 4-5's at a indoor gym and having trouble progressing to 6-7 what the fuck can i do how do you even train for rock climbing efficiently ppl just say hurr durr
>just keep climbing bro

>>874392
Thanks man

>>874744
rotate between volume, strength training, and project/burnout days

>slab days, high volume
>overhung days, low-medium volume
>hand strength days, alternate between weighted pull ups and high volume pull ups using different grips
>heavy pull days, fuck grip, you're just trying to rip your arms off
I find that incorporating slab days as cooldowns to grip/pull days is best. Sometimes I can use overhung as cooldowns, but that's a calculated risk.
Project days anywhere between once a week and once a month. You need to find the balance between disciplined strength gains, and maintaining the enjoyment of crushing projects.

>>874767
you'll notice I skipped leg day, because like all climbing literature, footwork is non existent

Get on the wall
There's no time to explain

Going outdoors for the first time next week. Any tips?

>>877123
read climbing literature to learn about the finer points and more advanced methods of footwork.

>>877472
We get it.

>>877123
if you can reach it it's on. gumbies always seem to try to make it harder than it has to be. use the big-ass holds in front of you.

>>874577
you need to climb more if you can't figure that out retard.

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>>878753
so I need to climb more to find climbing literature that discusses footwork?

>>878688
Good tip. Rain for the weekend. Can't climb on wet Rick's. Have to go next week

>>878763
your pic made me think of this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvsqn80ld2A
If you want to improve your footwork, you should climb more, not read more. It's easier when you climb with people that can do what you can't. Talk to people and make friends, you'll climb better.

>>879026
agreed

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What if a guy doesn't want to climb but only rappel? Can the same anchors used for climbing being used only for that purpose?

>>879557
yes. but don't rap down onto any climbers.

if you really like rapping come to The Valley and do the royal arches rap decent: ~1700 feet of vertical face bolted for twin 60m or single 70m rope rappels. took me about 3 hours with a single 70 after climbing ra a few years ago.

>>879574
>~1700 feet of vertical face bolted for twin 60m or single 70m rope rappels. took me about 3 hours with a single 70
what do you do when you get out off rope?

>>874564
>Talking shit about Freedom. Ever.

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Rate this section. Is this Class II?

>>879581
>clip into the next anchor
>pull your rope
>set up for next rappel
>head down rope
>repeat x15

I was doing it with a partner, so basically every step was doubled. solo you could easily shave an hour off, or even two, depending on how fast you're willing to rap.

>>879614
maybe. can't tell how steep it is.

>>879639
>clip into the next anchor
When you're rappelling isn't supposed to clip to a two or three point anchor? Can you post an image or video so I can have a clear idea? Thanks.

>>879639
I'm standing straight up. So 45° or more.

>>879656
ra's rap route had two bolt anchors every ~100'. so when you reach one you just clip a sling to both, tie it off, and clip in to the loops. i'll see if i can find or draw a pic when i get home.

>>879665
do you have to use your hands to get up it? if no class 2. if yes class 3.

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>>879667
>ra's rap route had two bolt anchors every ~100'
Oh ok, now I get it, la.

>mfw bothering anons with boring and ignorant fag questions

>>879607
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-paa3wwGWww

>>879691
no worries. if i was bothered i wouldn't have answered. or i at least would have been a lot more of a dick about it.

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I'm considering participating in a bouldering competition this weekend.

I'm very, very novice-tier though. Should I?

>>873566
Do you know the origins of the rating scale that you use?
Before the advent of modern climbing shoes, harnesses, and ropes, the 5 (considered the spectrum of sport climbing within the 1-6 difficulty of ascent rating system) was originally 5 to 5.10. That was thought to be the pinnacle of what humans could reliably ascend by their own power.
You can already scend routes that your grandfather's peers would have thought impossible.

>>882465
yes, nothing but knowledge and experience to gain.

>>882516

Cool.
I'll give it a shot.

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>>882475
>to 5.10
that should be 5.9 amigo. that's why .10+ get letters, too; in the process of adding them they got an expanded format.


>That was thought to be the pinnacle of what humans could reliably ascend by their own power. You can already scend routes that your grandfather's peers would have thought impossible.
false. it was just a flawed system. yds was developed in the 1930s, but people were doing 5.10s by the teens and '20s, and 5.11c went down in 1934 (fucking barefoot!)
>https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_rock_climbing
>http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm

http://www.camptocamp.org/

lol I just saw a guy campus a V7.
what the fuck man.

>>883067

*up AND down
steeply overhung, shit holds

godamn X-men.

I hurt my wrist on a boulder problem that I couldn't solve for a few weeks. I came in one day and I was so determined to finish the problem no matter what. On the second to last hold, I lost my footing and didn't let go because I wanted to finish. While dangling by one hand, my body turned and fucked up my wrist hardcore. I pulled through the pain and finished the problem.

I did that in December of 2015 and I still cannot climb yet.

>The lesson to be learned here.

Your mind is more powerful than your body. Don't be a dumb ass like me and hurt your body just to prove something to yourself. You're going to solve that problem eventually. Finish it when your body says it's time, not your mind. In my case, when I lost my footing, I should have just fallen (duh).

>>883851
obviously you aren't dedicated to climbing

>>879557
if there are no climbers on it then yeah
-make sure there are bolted rappel stations before starting down a multi-pitch route
-do note that bolted belay station usually means bolts and hangers only, which will require you to leave gear behind to rappel from
-always knot the ends of your rope

When you pull the rope after rappeling there is always a chance it will get caught on something and need you to rescue it. If you're by yourself I don't know a safe way to recover it, which could leave you stranded on a wall requiring help, which could be really bad if nobody is around. I honestly don't know how to prevent this other than simply staying the fuck away from crack climbs and only doing high-angle face climbing with small features...?
If you're solo then getting the rope stuck would be a serious concern for me.

>>884288
>If you're solo then getting the rope stuck would be a serious concern for me.
Actually I guess it's a concern even if you aren't solo, if you don't have climbing gear. I'm used to rappeling down after climbing up, and thus you obviously have the gear and skill to climb up to whatever point the rope is stuck at. If you don't have the gear and ability to climb up, it doesn't matter how many people or how much gear you have: if you get your rope stuck it's not coming down.

>find party stranded on ledge
>their rope is stuck
>ask them why they didn't just reclimb the pitch...?
>they don't know how to climb
>mfw

today I went rockclimbing with my gf for the first time, it was fun for the most part

then at the end the guy asked if we wanted to try bouldering. We were both kind of tired and really don't know what we are doing so we declined, but he really insisted we try it

I don't really feel comfortable without a harness yet
he says it's fine because I will spot you
oh, so you'll catch me if I fall?
and his manager says "no, but he's trained to guide your fall so you don't get hurt"

uhh ok, I'll try just this once I guess. and so I start my climb and get about 7 feet off the ground to a part where there's an overhang. I couldn't quite reach the next rock so I dropped off, and as I'm descending he just pushes me forward so I land really awkwardly

long story short I have a broken ankle now.
Thanks guys!

>>884379
>as I'm descending he just pushes me forward so I land really awkwardly

Is this not what spotters do? I don't think I've ever completed a bouldering session without breaking a few bones.

Get over it, pussy. You still have another ankle to break.

>>884387
if he didn't shove me I would have landed safely under my own control, but because he pushed me all my weight shifted forward and got taken by one leg

>>884379
>>884493
>lying to invisible strangers on the internet
let's see a cast and a timestamp, faggot

>>884493
if you didn't fall you wouldn't have broken your ankle faggot

>>884513
I'm not sure what's so implausible about the situation

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>>884566
let's compare plausibility:
scenario 1
>anon is telling the truth
scenario 2
>anon is a fat lying /in/ sack of shit roleplaying for attention
yeah...

>>884587
Or anon fucked up and is trying to blame somebody else for his shortcomings. Acting like he was forced to boulder by somebody who then pushed him into the ground to break his ankle.

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>>884670
nah, i'm sticking with anon's a complete lying piece of human garbage. otherwise we'd get a pic.

>>885043
you're a mean guy, and seem really insecure for some reason

>>885081
quite the contrary. i'm quite secure in the knowledge that broken ankle anon is a lying faggot. and if anyone's insecure it seems to me it's the person seeking validation by lying on the internet.

as far as being mean, you lie to me, i'm an asshole to you. seems like a fair trade.

>>885122
dubs confirmed.

>>884160
Nah, it's not that, my wrist was fucked up pretty bad. Only until recently, if I grabbed something wrong it would hurt my wrist. I moved about 6 months ago and it was killing me the whole time. Wrists can be a bitch sometimes, especially if you don't get therapy for injuries.

>>885428
gtfo faggot, acting like you don't have the ability to rehabilitate an injury.

>be me at climbing gym
>pulling plastic
>giant holds with lots of friction
>my weak body is damaged because my skin is stronger than my muscle
>a whole year passes without any type of productive training
>MUH WRIST
>I CANT TEH CLIMB
>FEELSBAD.TAMPON

>>873043
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBCRwO0FN0zMTqSfFW9SMbK2tncTrI25r

Watch that entire playlist, be amazed and git gud

>>886461
I got those videos from a fat guy once
he was pretty chill
I would lead for him
he would smoke me out
share/show me his expensive equipment
anyways
fuck those videos, they're retarded
wouldn't even watch them for free.

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can somebody explain to a complete noob how 2 people climb up a mountain?
I mean how do they use rope for safety?

going down you can use anchors above, but going up it seems that one person will always have to free climb and then secure the other person that comes second. is this correct?

>>889136
You either place protection as you climb or you clip bolts that are already there and then attach the rope as you go up.

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>>889136
>first climber (leader) ties in, goes up, places pro as he goes, clips rope into pro, second climber belays him
>first climber reaches a stopping point, builds an anchor, and sets up to belay second up to him
>second climbs, belayed from above by leader, and cleans the protection leader placed to protect himself

also, free climbing=/=free soloing.
free soloing is climbing without protection
free climbing is climbing using only rocks to bear your body weight (differentiated from aid climbing, where you hang from hooks and pins you hang from/place in the rock)

but yes, leading is riskier and more difficult than following. which is why it's more fun. :)

>>889653
And what do they do when the leader is too hight for the belay from the ground?

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>>889661
here is scientific information on how to

>>889661
I assume you mean what do they do when they run out of rope?

Like somebody already answered, the leader builds an anchor and belays (keeps slack out of the rope going to the climber below and holds a fall if need be) the climber below who then follows up to where the leader stopped.

Assuming there are more pitches the follower either now leads or they switch back to belaying the leader.

If the lead climber falls they fall to the point of their last piece of pro and then the same distance again until the rope goes taught. If the follower falls they are falling on a top rope, which is a few feet usually at the most.

I like barn dooring.
It feels good.

>>891569
I don't need your whitelash comments, stop being racist

>>873790
Even if your idea is good it's poorly worded. The answer is down climb and learn how to fall, more so the latter, OP.

Enjoy dying early.

So I've just started climbing about a month ago. Slowly working my way up to 5.10 by going about three times a week. Is there anything I can read or watch at this level? I'd like to improve past throwing myself at walls and using a grip trainer. I took my beginners class at my gym but the next level requires a month of climbing before taking it.

>>892467
read up on common climber's injuries from over training. seriously. you'll thank me later.

>>892467
>work routes too hard for you
>pay attention to your
movement/technique
>watch/talk to better climbers about how they'd work through specific moves/sections that gave you trouble
>try what they suggested
even if you're awkward, just go up and ask them. i've never met a climber who doesn't love to spray beta.

>tfw my bouldering grade is way above my sport climbing grade even though I mostly climb with a rope
Anyone else cursed by the getpumpedafter10moves gene?

>>894316
stick to bouldering, peak strength gains are worth more than endurance gains.

>>879574
I don't see how anyone could like that tbf. Did the Arches a few weeks ago, the rappel fluctuated between boring and tiring, but never fun.

>>894883
fuck everything about arches

>>895038
My brother broke his ankle 5 pitches in. I tore my down jacket on the opening chimney. Ended up bailing on North Dome's Crest Jewel.

So yeah, fugg it, but it's still a pretty place.

Do you guys boulder outdoors or indoors?
Where do you go to climb?

>>897553
yosemite valley, tuolumne, soyo, high sierra, pinnacles, castle crags, owens river gorge, smith rock, castle rock, bishop peak

Had day off work so went to a local crag to try out solo lead climbing. Didn't die but much scarier than just normal lead with a belayer.
I've done technical alpine climbing in the French Alps in winter and I don't think I was shitting myself as much as I was today.

I'm sure I'll get use to it.

>>873835
Upvoted.
Gresham is kind of goofy (but very nice, I met him by coincidence when I was in England for a few weeks and popped by a bouldering hall in Bristol), but these two videos are a very nice introduction for beginners and intermediates.

Also, read The Villain, about Don Whillans, and The Hard Years by Joe Brown.

>>897677
keep telling yourself that.

>>897677

Why would you be shitting yourself?
It's still less likely to lead to injury than even very easy bouldering.

>>898538
go fuck yourself with your playdoh

>>898626

If by playdoh you mean facts, go fuck yourself with your Trump vote.

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>>899132
>comparing the dangers of rope soloing to bouldering

Go
Fuck
Your
Playdoh

>>898538
Are you kidding? Being high enough for a fatal fall and being unsure if your rig will arrest your fall....that's far more intense than a high fucking boulder problem.

>>882475
Found this thread still alive.

Thanks for the tip. Really put things in perspective

My new question is finding a partner to climb with when you're climbing outdoors alone on the day of. Anyone ever done it? Is it even viable?

I'm asking this cause I'll be going to sea in January and plan on doing some climbing. Problem is in finding a partner

>>899661
Try mountain project, better if you're a local looking for a partner but chances are someone needs a partner in the area you're going, or someone will get back to you and want to get out for a day too. Just make sure to include your ability, both physical and knowledge wise.

...otherwise, make friends who climb and can take the time to go on a trip with you. Or just show up to the crag and try to work in with a group, kinda chancey but as long as you can hang and are friendly it would be fine.

>>899661
Are you the anon who was asking about working on the great lakes in another thread? I replied to you there too.

Tldr version is I work at sea and climb loads, all styles in my time off (4 weeks on then same off). That means lots of Scottish winter, European Alps and one expedition a year. Best advice I can give you is volume...as much climbing on real rock as possible. For finding partners local Facebook groups are brilliant and often lead to regular partnerships. Good luck with the lifestyle.

>>873124
I've been casually climbing for many years but I haven't heard the silent feet thing until now. Can someone explain?

why are Grivel biners so expensive?

>>899667
I'll be bacpacking around SEA for a few months so it's going to be tricky. I'll have to wing it. Using mountain project sounds like a good idea though

>>899685
Sorry man. Different anon

>>900200
my ex went climbing in thailand, she was pissed about the "old men" banging the thai chicks. Also, everything is 5.easy. AKA
>profit
have fun anon

Just started climbing in a couple of gyms, one where I live using auto belays and bouldering, and one where my girlfriend lives belaying each other.

At my gym I'm doing 5s and just about mastered 6a (5.10 equivalent), at my girlfriends 6a is manageable.

At my gym the grades get harder by the type of holds, at girlfriends it's the gap between holds that get more difficult.

Is this normal for indoor walls?

Also I have no chalk at the moment, should I get some or tough it out for a month or so? I lift weights so hands aren't babby soft.

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>>901922
greasy hands gonna make your grip training more profitable. chalk is just going to let you rely more on your skin for grip.

different route setters have different styles, learn to read routes and make educated decisions on what route you work on.

I would suggest sticking to routes with big, open handed holds, aka "slopers".
"crimps" or little edges are a good way to strain your fingers, which is good, but a quick way to overtrain...

>>901926
I was watching people using chalk every time they moved their hand and I thought they were going way overboard/being a pussy considering I was doing those routes fine.

I figured it was normal as every gym will have different styles of difficulty increasing.

Feet are now perma blue from my shoes and pretty stoked to get back, hopefully do some outdoor stuff and lead climbing in the summer!

>>901939
have fun and stay relatively safe!

do not undersize your shoes bro, it's a shortcut that utilizes compression of the foot to increase stiffness instead of allowing your feet to become stronger just like your hands

>>902019
Shoes fit pretty decent, hardly notice them after 10 minutes, it's just they're bright blue and my feet sweat a little so it's coming off

How did you guys start outdoor climbing? I've been indoor climbing for a few months and wanna get outside when spring rolls around. Was it though friends or a class?

>>899735
the point is that in order for your feet to be silent you must place them deliberately where you want to. it just makes you think about foot placement more. as an extremely casual climber myself it never even crossed my mind that somebody wouldn't already be thinking about where they were putting their feet.

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>>902317
first outdoor for me was red river gorge as a kid, family tagged along with some weird climbing group. they even installed a cowbell at the top of the climb we all had a go at.

there are trail maintenance days, would be a great way to meet strong community members willing to climb with you, so social fucks love being good hearted.

or you could crowdsource at the gym, but those fucks can be sketchy, I've had gym bros drop me while being lowered top rope outdoors.

>>900483
Thanks for the tips. I should be fine then.

>>902317
Just try to make friends with somebody in your gym who has the same goals as you.

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How can I tell if my shoes need a resole? Also, how important is shoe choice for a beginner? I'm mostly doing V0-V1 problems in Bishop.

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>>904578
here are 3 shoes, one of them has recently been resoled, one of them still has the rand intact, but the sole is worn through, the other one, the rand is blown out along with the sole.

resole your shoes before rand is compromised, it costs more to repair, and the shape/fit of the shoe will never be the same after.

>>904606
That picture is shit.

>>904578
Your shoes need a resole when the bottom section is wearing through, usually near the big toe. Take a look at a new pair of shoes and you'll see a fairly crisp edge. That slowly wears down until it starts to be a more ragged edge where the bottom rubber is wearing through to show the rand behind it which the toe cap is part of. If you just keep climbing you'll wear through the rand and start seeing leather.

Basically if you catch the wear before you hit the rand you'll keep it pretty cheap.

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>>904622
here's a better picture for you copy pasta faggot

>>904578

Shoe choice is important for everyone.

For a beginner, it is mostly important in the sense that if you choose poorly you are going to have a miserable time.

Your first shoes should fit better than the best fitting garment you have ever owned, and be better than a second skin.

Later on in your climbing career, you may tend towards shoes that fit more snugly than might be considered ideal, to the point of being somewhat uncomfortable to walk in

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How do you visually identify a crux?

>>905139
Just look for what seems to be the hardest part. Some routes have identify it for you. Remember that not every route has a crux, some are the same difficulty the entire time.

>>905454
In which case you just got to be a better climber.

Anyone had any experience meeting up with people on mountain project? Going to have to rely on it as I travel. Might have to just resort to randos on the crag

>>907648

I hope you like downclimbing

Girlfriend and I have been climbing a few weeks - top roping and bouldering. Probably been about 8 times now to a couple of gyms.

Yesterday we both did a 5+ (5.10a) and 3/4 of a 6a (5.10b). We don't have chalk or our own harnesses. Should we keep touching it out with no chalk? It felt at the point we couldn't hold on and our hands were slipping so chalk should help, but I don't want to be relying on it before we learn good technique.

>>908339
climbing in a gym to learn how to climb, is like learning how to fly a plane on a computer.

>>908339
Just get chalk. It costs almost nothing

>>908339
without chalk
>focusing on hands slipping
>not focusing on technique
with chalk
>focusing on technique
>not focusing on hands slipping

really your argument is like saying you don't want to rely on climbing shoes until you learn technique.

>>908339
what people won't tell you, is that chalk is not required. The chalk dries your skin, which leaves your skin prone to tearing, because you lack the oils that keep your skin malleable. Chalk will get you instant gratification, but you end up relying on your skin instead of your actually grip.

I've met very strong climbers, who will go out of their way to train with wet hands. If you want to get strong, and avoid bloody flappers, stay away from chalk.

>>908511
I see your point, but then I look at these pictutes of all these peo climbers and they are climbing with chalky hands. So it makes me wonder how valid your statement can be.

As of now I mostly go chalkess. I'd love to see any citations you have proving that going chalkess is the wau to go

>>908511
Ur retarded. Just use normal chalk (not metolius super chalk) and wash your hands after climbing/use lotion. It's forming calluses that rip off, ask anyone who works with their hands period. If you have dry rough hands, use a lotion or balm

>>908903
i think his key word was
>train
i can see this could have merit as an exercise to increase grip strength (though i've never heard of anyone doing it, and have a difficult time seeing how you would keep your hands wet past a couple moves), but when people are really trying to climb something hard for them they'll use chalk.

or (more likely) he's a lying, shitstirring troll.

>>909082
greasy slopers make strong hands.

a specific story is meeting a motocross/climber who said he used a spray bottle to keep his hands wet during sloper training.

And it's easy to keep your hands wet when you're prone to heavy perspiration

>>908511
dubs confirmed.

Here's the thing about chalk.

The more you use chalk, the more you have to use chalk.

Your body ADAPTS to external stimuli. Every time you shove your hands into a chalk bag, your body will respond by trying to make your hands sweat more, to keep your skin from drying out and getting damaged.

>>909469
wait wait wait, so you're saying, that the body ADAPTS to external stimuli??? so if you train with wet hands...does that mean your skin will naturally dry out??? THIS IS NOT GOOD

>>897553
Two great gyms near me (had a third but they recently closed due to poor management), one of those is walking distance from my house

Dozens of great climbs within an hour of me in any direction. Rumbling Bald, One of the best boulder fields in the country less than 15 minutes away (currently closed to public due to god damn forest fires)

WHO 828 HURR?

>>904626
Not the guy you're replying to but your images are very dark, perhaps use a flash or a light next time

Can never climb better than a 5.11c wtf. I don't bother with any exercises besides climbing alone because that shit is boring. Also I'm 5'4, will I ever get better this way?

>>912138
Pick a route, figure out where you're failing and train specifically to perform that sequence. You're going to have to be creative with how you move at that height.

I agree that general exercises are boring, but it really helps to have a specific goal in mind.

>>912138

Train plyometrics and campus board.
You are basically going to have to develop a climbing style that is heavily focused on offset and dynamic balance moves. Maybe start speed climbing and work your way from easier routes back up to 5.11c.

Alternatively, you might simply be at peak potential.

>I don't bother with any exercises besides climbing alone because that shit is boring.

No, you'll never get better. Because you find reasons not to improve - e.g. "doing the things necessary to improve is boring".

You let the way you "feel" get in the way of your personal growth, so you'll never grow.

>>912556
Not op, but those are some wise words. Hit a wall with my bojldering so started training again and I'm seeing results again.

>>873043
I live just south of Williamsport, PA and have a little bit of CTS and arthritis going on from doing road and bridge construction. How do I into climbing?

>>883851
>Your mind is more powerful than your body. Don't be a dumb ass like me and hurt your body just to prove something to yourself.
I've learned this lesson the hard way more than once.

>>913703
climb around on the shit you're building

>>913843
That gets me yelled at on the bridges, and roads are flat. Work season's over right now, anyway.

How the fuck do I into outdoor climbing? Did you guys take a class or just learn from friends? I really want to get outdoors, my people.

>>914020
To start, learn from friends and supplement that with research online. Top-roping outdoors is the same as top-roping in the gym and there isn't much to it--you just need to know how to build safe anchors. Start with that and when you're confident, take a lead climbing class and start getting into the good shit. At that point there are a lot more fatal errors to be made and nuances with things like slack management. When you're dealing with something that's already terrifying it helps a lot with confidence to be taught by a pro.

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>>914020
there's a couple disciplines involved, more if you include social interactions

>climbing
>safety system

intro to /out/ climbing I would suggest "traversing" a foot off the ground, it will allow you to familiarize yourself with how "you fit with the rock" while allowing you to simply step off upon failure

now, combine that discipline with, let's say, a mattress that you need to accurately land on in case of a fall, making sure to land in an uncompromising position where you do not cause your body any acute stress

A more complex version of this would be to use a "line" or "rope" instead or combined with a "mattress", with your main concern, just like the mattress technique, in being to avoid acutely compromising forces, such as a situation where the rope is "wrapped around you unnecessarily" turning you into a fucking dreidle. With modern textiles, concern of severing a "rope" is nill, unless there is literally an arrowhead esq piece of rock stabbing at the cord. See "vector forces" for reference to safe loading of "rope system" and "building of anchors"

Just remember, a hundred years ago, we grabbed a "rope" in our hands, while it was tied around the waist of our peer, and that technique is still valid today, all of the rest is just mandatory mechanical advantage to adhere to the modern complacency.

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>>914034
>>914074
Thanks for the advice, my people. I found a friend of mine who I didn't know climbed a lot and he's gonna show me the ropes (no pun intended) of outdoor climbing.

Can't fucking wait.

How do I find a sport/trad partner in Bishop, CA?

>>914956
Check local FB groups. Make a post with your skill level and what you're trying to climb and someone is bound to respond.

>>914953
Dope

>>914956
this kills the thread

>>897567
so jelly of your location. specially castle crags

>>904578
is that kiersarge pass?

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so, I just picked up climbing, and I really want to become a climbing mutant, anyone have suggestions on high radiation climbs in California? What's the best place to climb on the west coast to mutate? Can I take a geiger counter to Californian food markets? I feel like ingesting the radiation would increase my climbing mutant transition.
Sincerely,
California Love

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>>916586
Also, what is a good radiation dosage? Is 24/7 exposure the best for training? Should I increase radiation in preparation for an epic on a 14'er?

>>916650
I think you need to pick up a Koran, pal.

>>916692
a Koran?

>>916710
A Koran.

>>916759
*korean

>>916763
I've met some really strong japanese climbers, never met a Koran tho

How do I talk to girls?

>>916768
it likes to rape children
not the type you'd want to meet

>>916841
yea, that's definitely not what I want, I want to get radiation strong like the Japs, they're master race climbing mutants

>>916842
agreed
they're fucking machines

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>>916579
cosmic wall is the most fun climb i've ever done. grade chaser are gonna hate, but in my opinion there's nothing like romping up a crazy-exposed 5.6 jughaul. if you ever make it be sure to be the one to lead pitch 4.

>>916580
kearsarge. but yes. though when i was the the weather was better.

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Hello, I'm a /tg/ resident here doing some research into climbing as part of the development of a more in depth climbing ruleset.

In case you're unaware, most of the climbing I'm talking about is free hand climbing with no real gear, or at most a grappling hook and rope. The climbs vary from various grades of natural slope to rough manmade stone walls, as pictured.

With these conditions and equipment options in mind, what can you guys tell me about the basic techniques, actions and dangers involved? What should they be doing, and how should they be doing it?

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>>916998
well, I would suggest picking up a geiger counter, and finding some irradiated, ingesting it before you start climbing, the radiation with turn you into a climbing mutant as you make your ascent.

>>917117
After reading this thread I can't tell if this is an in joke or the work of one autistic poster.

>>916998
>basic techniques
holding on
>actions
climbing
>dangers
falling
>What should they be doing
holding on, climbing, and not falling
>how should they be doing it?
holding on, climbing, and not falling

sarcasm aside, that's really about as detailed as a nonclimber running or designing a game for other nonclimbers is going to, or needs to, get. even as both a climber and pen & paper nerd i wouldn't really want a much more detailed rules set than that. i can't see any way it would become anything other than a tedious skill point sink or str/dex checks.

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>>917184
It's a rather central part of the system, unfortunately.

>>916998
You'd probably get a better idea reading a narrative climbing book or watching a movie. Alone on the Wall, Valley Uprising

>>917189
can you describe how more detail will be needed? maybe what different scenarios/conditions you think need special, more detailed rules?

>>917191
it doesn't matter how much you Californians try, you will never be master race mutants like the Japs.

Go read Fallen Giants, it will show you the history of climbing, before nuclear radiation made the Japs into mutants

>>917193
Not so much detail as mechanical complexity. And complexity requires varied actions beyond "Climb it"

So, if you were to break the action of climbing a wall into subparts, then what would those parts be?

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>>917229
>spinal erectors
>hip flexors
>latimus dorsal
>pronation of the fore arm
>giant fucking erection

>>917229
well, with
>no real gear, or at most a grappling hook and rope
the only actions are
>move one hand up
>move the other hand up
>move one foot up
>move the other foot up
>repeat, sometimes in a different order

is it going to be a skill check? because then at least there are options to increase the dc.

>>917276
nah nigga
>>916998
in a situation where a wall, such as a garrison wall would need to be scaled, that motherfucker would carry the grappling hook up with them, and place it at the top, after jumping and leaping their way up the wall in record time as they watched their coworkers fall silently to their deaths upon failure.

>>873745
>How do you not fuck yourself up while bouldering? This kid came into my ER with a open humerus fracture, said he only fell 10 feet.
Learn how to properly fall, and get a crash pad. Slowly work up to higher and more precarious bouldering routes, and similarly you will slowly get comfortable with more precarious falls.

>>882465
>>882518
In my experience, good seasoned climbers who see novices actually trying and failing will applaud you for it. They know that that's what it takes to get better. If you go in talking shit and can't deliver? That's a different story.

>>916842
>>916844
>that little 14 year old nip girl who can solve v15s like it's no big deal
what the fuck man

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>>917323
>what the fuck man

The tyranny of the rocket equation is a motherfucker.

Any recommendations for babby's first downturned shoe? I have a wider foot, and the La Sportiva Otaki fit really well. Am going to try the 5.10 Hiangles in a few days, really like that C4 rubber.

>>917895
>wider foot
kill yourself retard
>which $150+ shoe should I buy?
go spend some money on common sense
>c4 rubber
super aggressive shoe, only half the stick

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Hello fellers,

I won a climbing competition last month and won a harness. The thing is I won that same competition last year and won the same harness so now I have three harnesses in my quiver.

I went to the only climbing shop in my city and the owner is down to take it in and give me credit for his store. I've been eyeing the new mad rock lifeguard and I am considering getting that. I don't yet have an assisted braking belay device so I thought it should be the next thing I should add to my rack.

I'd like to hear any thoughts or experiences with the lifeguard (he's got it on sale for sixty bucks which makes it especially attractive to me) as well as any other suggestions of gear I should get.

Here's my current rack so far:
3 harnesses
Belay decide w/carabiner
Rope
12 draws
Personal anchor system
A set of stoppers
Gloves
Belay glasses
Helmet
Climbing pack
Rope tarp
Head lamp
Three chalk bags and bucket
Brush
Three pairs of climbing shoes

He's currently got mostly everything 25% off so any suggestions will be considered. I am going to get into trad climbing.

Thanks in advance!

>>917941
Are you having a bad day?

>>917979
did you spend money on the stoppers?

>mad rock lifeguard
Looks legit, almost like a GriGri with all the extra crap shaved off

>>917998
Yeah I got them on sale for fifty bones. It's a set of ten from black diamond.... I have yet to get a removal tool but I have used them here and there to practice my placement.

>>917999
I have a double rack I've pieced together off newfags who quit climbing, don't have any stoppers, if I wanted stoppers I'd just go to the hardware store

>>918044
Um, okay...? I don't really understand your message nor it's relevance to my post, no offense.

Are you saying I should make my own stoppers? You offering to sell me some more? You offering to buy mine? You implying I'm a newfag? Im not exactly a newfag....

>>917999
dmm wallnuts>>>>>>>bd stoppers

>>918044
congratulations on having an incomplete skill set. nuts are god tier pro. especially
offset nuts.

>>918069
meh, I picked up a set of offset cams and a couple wildcountry tech friends, haven't had any issues without stoppers. Also, DMM needs more retail space here in burgertown, blackdiamond has a grotesque monopoly, you have to order online for burger manufactured gear while in burger down.

>>918072
eh, if you're happy without them i'm happy for you. but I never leave home without them.

though I suppose it matters where you're climbing. they aren't as much use places like indian creek where you're running up crazy parallel splitters, but the places I go in the sierra with fiddly little cracks they're clutch. plus they're light, take up almost no room on a rack, and if you have to bail you can leave $10 instead of $70+.

>>918088
if I had to bail I would just knot up some prussik. I use fat draws, 17 cams on draws and 2fts on the shoulder.

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>>918069
>>918072
>>918088
>mfw I'm starting a job at a rock climbing gym this coming january and have no idea what the fuck half of the things are you guys are talking about

>>918397
it's a bunch of garbage that you don't need to climb that is marketed towards safety nazis/gear hoarders

>>912138
A dude at my gym is about 5'2" and he crushes at 5.13. Don't let height hold you back.

>>918400
Top kek. I know how to lead climb, a bit about setting trad anchors, feel comfortable teaching people how to belay with ATC and grigri, and even had the privilege of learning how to climb outdoors. I was shocked when they said that was enough and I was hired. Most I've ever managed to complete is a 5-11-b

>>918426
"well, you see, you hold onto da ropuh, and when dey fawl, yousa holda onto da ropuh! Paweese demonstrate sue I con certifii yousas compatant"

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Been climbing a few months now.
I'm redpointing every 5.8 I touch but I still can't get up any 5.9s.

Wat do?
Just keep steadily building strength?

>>873043
Freesolo climb

>>918846
depends if your bottleneck is technique or strength. I just started in earnest last week and I'm already managing V1/2 boulders, but that's because I come from rowing, where power to weight ratio is important, so I can just campus juggy routes with shit technique and still make it up. Obviously, I need to work on technique to get better. Just look at what you're not good at (or, from the other side, look at what you excel at and do other things).

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>>918111
>if I had to bail I would just knot up some prussik
?? like these crazy motherfuckers?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQstfpiYu_A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3TrYKQEQrUg
if so, that's take too much damn time for me. if i need to bail i need to bail NOW! nuts are way easier to drop in and trust.
>17 cams and draws
too much metal for me. my favorite is running 6 cams (.4-3), a full set of nuts and offset nuts, and 3 hexes (for anchors, to save the cams for climbing). but like i said earlier, rack is all about hat you climb. my favorite is long, mellow, backcountry sierra routes.
pic related-my alpine rack when it was shiny new (i've upgraded to half ropes since that pic was taken; a-fucking-mazing on wandering routes)

>>918397
>>918426
that's because all you'll have to do is check in people, make sure they sign their waivers right, and call 911 when somebody fucks up and blows up their knee falling off the bouldering wall.

>>918846
pay very close attention to where you're failing and how. climb with people better than you and talk to them about moves that have you stymied.

>>918883
lol, don't be salty I have a triple rack kid, I've bailed leaving half my draws 4 pitches up before, if it's time to go it's time to go

I hope you all your climbs have completely different sized placements, otherwise, you're running that shit out everytime.

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/trv/agot here,
I am planning to do a week of bouldering in Fontainebleau this summer as part of a longboard/backpack trip. However, I don't have space for a crashpad. I can climb level 3/4 boulders up and down /in/.

On a scale from 1 to 10 how hard am I going to die, also how can i prevent this whole dieing thing?

>>919245
the brain stem is located at the base of the skull, it connects your brain to your butthole, avoid direct contact with your brain stem against hard surfaces if you want to avoid incontinence

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>>918905
>repeatedly describe liking a style of climbing with different gear requirements
>must be salty
>mfw

>>919291
hardman confirmed, you're more man than me, I don't want to take a 50ft whipper when I'm in an Alpine environment where a broken limb would mean a possible forced bivy

>>919245
There will be others with crashpads to protect your fall. Find people who are working problems and ask if you can climb with them.

anyone else had someone poke them in the booty with their finger while they were spotting as you bouldered?

this thread is pure cancer

>>919999
I scrolled all the way down for this...
Also why

>>919999
>caring enough to wait for quads

hey outsiders, have any tips for when I go to an indoor climbing gym? Thinking about pulling on some plastic in the AC, should I bring sunscreen?

>>920295
>don't wear your shoes into the bathroom
>wash your hands before you eat in case some other asshole did

>>920377
was thinking about bringing a hammock and my dog with me, do most indoor climbing gyms allow camping with pets? Do they charge for camping or is it like BLM land, where it's just a leave no trace policy

>>873745
pretty much get a crash pad and be lucky if you're actually going /out/side

if you manage to fuck up that much in a gym, consider keeping your feet on the ground

Anyone have tips on what to wear in a gym? I usually go outside and it's between 80-110F where I live, what type of clothing should I wear? what kind of water filter would you recomend to use in conjunction with a water fountain? I've heard stories about germs, should I bring hand sanitizer? I was thinking about going to my doctor and getting a prescription of anitbiotics just in case I epic while going indoors, anyone have sauce on emergency protocols for biological contaminants in an air conditioned environment? What temperature/humidity do climbing gyms usually keep their walls at? should I pack rain gear?

>>920494
/applaud

>>920494
Good meme

>>919373
Every time

>>919245
>>919334

Also planning a visit to Font. From what I've found on the internet there should be places where you can rent crash pads

>>921001
there used to be crash pad rentals out at Hueco Tanks, not sure if that is still a thing, was $10 a day

Alright. Did my first sport climb outside. Had a blast. Way better than indoors.

How do you tell what grade you're climbing. The hardest climb I did was apparently a 5.10c as told by the locals which I find hard to believe. The climb wasn't easy by any means, but I was expecting something way more harsh.

This was in Taiwan. I'll be climbing throughout SEA for the next few months. Are the grades just softer here?

>>921577
yes, grades everywhere have been getting softer over the last decade

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>>921577
the newer the area the softer the grades. you want old school grades you gotta go old school places-a little tuolumne 10c will fuck your day up.
>https://www.mountainproject.com/v/you-asked-for-it/111159586
>mfw it was originally 10a
>mfw in most modern areas it would be an 11
>mfw i'm too much of a pussy to ever try that shit

>>921594
>>921639
you guys, we're losing our audience, let's bolt a new route and give it a new grade!
>be new year again
>time to advertise new amazing impossibru route with ungodly difficulty rating
>year after that
>yet again advertise new route magically the rating just above the last

TFW 5.12 used to be top rank
TFW newfags are flashing 5.12's
TFW they say routes are sandbagged
TFW classic routes are "worn out"
TFW classic routes go unmaintained because grade chasers
TFW grade chasers flex numbers like autists
TFW people travel out of state so they can bag their first 5.13 at 5.easy@Colorado

>>921883
STOP CALLING IT A PINK POINT, YOU CAN PREPLACE GEAR IN A REDPOINT YOU DOLT

>>921883
>grade chasers
this is an aspect of climbing i will never understand. i mean, i like climbing harder things to challenge myself, and because it opens up more things i can climb, but climbing a grade just to spray that you've climbed a grade makes no sense to me. especially if you run out to a place that grades notoriously soft to do it.

>>921891
>anon doesn't even mention pink point
>other anon loses his shit over it
defensive, much? maybe because you know preplaced pro/draws makes it waaaay easier?

>>921090
I live ten minutes from hueco. Lowell, the owner of the rock shop does crashpad rentals. I believe $8 for the day

>>922151
you ever been out there with snow on the ground? always thought that would be epic

>>921902
I feel the same way. In casual conversation I'll talk about frades sure, but it has always been about doing something that keeps me fit and healthy while having fun. Which is why I've never been big on traditional strength training exercices

>>922155
No i haven't, just rain a bunch of times and high winds. Would love to though

>>878763
better bouldering by john sherman. there, you happy retard?

>>922438
sauce on free download

Wish me luck, climbing bros. just applied to my first job in two years at my city's only climbing gym! I hope my qualifications are sufficiently to secure the spot. Time to stop being a lazy depressed piece of shit and start being a productive member of the climbing community.

Thanks!

>>924760
>climbing community
>climbing gym
pick one

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>>922704

>>919999
what does this mean?

>>924956
>Only climbing gym in the city
>not introducing qts to the wonderful world of outdoor climbing
>not being part of the ever growing climbing community
>not adding members to the community who are knowledgeable about the dos and donts of climbing and coming in with good climbing etiquette

Anon, pls

>>925321
>learning good climbing etiquette at indoor gym
>members of community
>knowledgeable

SJW shill, pls

everytime I see a "belay safety course tag" on some anons harness outside, they are loud and beligerant while they top rope from the chains instead of their own gear. It's great fun dodging their minefield of shit strewn sporadically. It makes me feel super special everytime I accidently don't ignore their yell-talking directed at making other people uncomfortable in a belittling manner, fuck off back to the gym and where you learned to be an asshole

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>>925387
Nice projection you got going on there

Pls, kys

>>925392
should I start documenting the invasion?
they always stay in groups of atleast 4, their loud talking could easily be a sympton of the climbing gym culture of speakers playing music, causing premature hearing damage, which would also explain their characteristic lack of balance

>>925395
"bro, lets go hit up the crag real quick"

"sounds good anon, I'll bring a hammock and some chairs, we can stare at our top rope set up while we lay around"

"that's awesome, don't forget to tag me in the sweet pics"

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>>925387
>>925395
>>925396

The type of brash, obnoxious behavior you are describing has nothing to do with where a person goes climbing most often. It is endemic to privileged youth in cultures that primarily value status/social currencies and deride or simply fail to teach humility.

If you want people to act differently, you're going to have to do something about it yourself. And the best place to do that is at a climbing gym, where you can talk to the most new climbers.

>>927860
the climbing gym panders to their behavior, meanwhile I'm picking up a dozen rope tips at the crag

>>927944

Oh, fuck off entirely.

>>874577
>beta cuck slab bullshit
confirmed for never having touched polished granite runouts in his life. getting well above your last placement while crossing coin-thin glass is a serious gut check.

honestly most of the shit you're talking about is better talked through and felt. climbing has historically been a sport of mentor relationships. salty gymmers that can't respect the old guard are gonna be their own punchlines as they struggle on footwork that only needs a 2min conversation and 5min experimentation to fix.
>tldr: as always, climb more. you can't read a book to learn how to balance and breath.

>>882475
>You can already scend routes that your grandfather's peers would have thought impossible.
yea, no. more like what >>882538 is saying
i got on a 5.9 in yos valley that fucken whipped me before i checked the FA date- in the goddamn 30s. i've led 12s and onsight 11s in red rock nevada.

>>897567
bay area bro?

>>897567
can you climb at pinnacles?

>>928131
agreed, I'm glad I have strong mentors, they also taught me to assault people if you catch them chipping holds, good old 80's boys

>>928230
thanks anon,
personal pet peeve is seeing people climb on sandstone after a rain. the local crag is all sandstone and i swear, there's another gym-boulder music blaster dropping his pads in puddles every weekend

>>928239
uninformed climbers are cancer.

>>928278
>>928239

As someone very new to the sport, why is climbing on sandstone after rain a problem?

I mean, it wasn't exactly on my to-do list.

>>928289
the rock is porous.

>sand
>stone

>>928292

Okay. So adding a lot of water makes the stone soft enough to damage by climbing on it? That seems a bit unlikely to me.

>>928294
you must be one of the fags I saw in zion, bussing to climbs while it was raining

>>928299

You must be actually retarded.

>Some shithead anon derides people for a specific behavior - e.g. climbing on sandstone after rain
>I ask why
>He can't be bothered to explain, "just don't do it bruh"
>I remain skeptical


Bottom line is that YOU are the problem here. Not me, not those fags in Zion, nobody else. You.

You're not mad because people are doing something destructive. You don't give a shit about the rock or the environment or anything other than your ego. You just want an excuse to feel like you're morally superior to some moiety of other climbers.

Bottom line is that you're not.

>>928292
>>928304

>>928306
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIiKOeqQv1M

here's the first video that popped up, dang, I guess I didn't do good job explaining, my bad dumbass

>>928308

I guess I have no idea why the fuck I wouldn't want to destroy as many routes as possible on my way up. You and the rest of your subculture are basically trash.

>>928309
your self identifying insults are classic, please continue

>>928310

See, this is one of the problems you have. You don't actually understand what words mean.

>>928304
>You must be actually retarded.
>Bottom line is that YOU are the problem here.
>You just want an excuse to feel like you're superior
>>928309
>Your and the rest of your culture are basically trash.

>>928310
kek

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The irony that some fag chipped off a really good hand, and now that the enamel is compromised, this new chipped crimp is going to crumble next week

>>928230
I guess this is why 80's boys will kick your ass, because knuckleheads

>>928135
sort of. near santa cruz.

>>928165
yep. it tends to be a bit..."adventurous" there. which is part of the reason i like it.

>>928289
>>928294
yes, rain makes sandstone (and volcanic tuff and other soft, porous rock) much more fragile. that's not to say you'll be able to crush a 2 foot rock in your hands, but you may crumble small features that are important on a climb, or high traffic will wear them faster.

>>928294
>>928289
hey anon, im >>928239, wow this thread is flamey

the non-tldr version is that sandstone is sedimentary, and to my knowledge all sedimentary stone is weakened by water. in the case of my local crag it's because it was all formed by massive pockets of limestone/chalk dissolving away. since calcium/magnesium (basic) are the glue that hold the sandstone together, the (mildly acidic) rainwater dissolves the glue and features can break off like twigs when it's soaked.
i saw someone break off a toothlike undercling feature the size/diameter of a thigh *four days after a hard rain*. no puddles on the ground, nothin. it was a sold feature i'd used on that climb for almost a decade, and it popped off in this guy's hand; he hit the ground and dropped it like a stone football and everyone cringed internally.

most parks have actual laws against climbing w/in days of a rain, and you can be cited.
>tldr: it's very likely

i've also seen a conglomerate boulder split in half and crash to the base of the climb next to me in 115degreeF heat. personal preference things: fuck sedimentary rock. red rocks nevada is cool, but it took me 3-4 days to get used how half the holds sound hollow; same noise means massive death/loose hold climbing at pinnacles

This discussion on limestone has proven informative. I never knew.

I've posted a few times already. I'm climbing throughout SEA right now, and it's all limestone. So this is useful knowledge.

I'll climb only when the rock is dry. I promise

>>928390
like the previous anon said, the issue is saturation, on some walls, the water seeps over a week after the rainfall, goodluck!

>>928390
good stewardship anon. when in doubt, ask a local... maybe check mountainproject for the spot if it's well known and see what the consensus is. i know red rocks NV is more fragile than my local sandstone

>>928390
as an aside: i've never touched limestone! there's some marble and serpentine near me, but that's metamorphic and plays by different rules. let us know how it is! i'd love to get my hands on some fat tufa rails, and i've drooled over karst pinnacles.
happy sending, anon

>>928394
>>928405
>>928407
Thanks guys. Its been two weeks since I was able to climb so I'm getting anxious to get my hands on some rock. Got one more week to go before I get to Ha Long Bay in Vietnam.

There is deepwater soloing there as well as a lot of sport routes. Anyone ever done? Any tips on it?

>>928980
deep water soloing is the tits, wet skin tears differently than dry skin

>>873745
10 feet is pretty high
>~3 meters
>means he was going 29.4 m/s when he hit the ground

if he was about 40 kilograms he hit the ground with a force of about 1300 foot-pounds, or about 1,762.56 newton-meters

Newtonian physics says: Falling is bad

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I'm a newbie on this, I'm climbing indoor and on house rock wall since last July. Since I have started always when I have a chance to climb things like rock wall I do it happily, I'm learning a lot with this because every rock wall is a puzzle to be solved, I think I'm really in love with climbing, but I'm cautious about rocks around my city due the tropical thunderstorms of summer season. I think my first rock will be some sweet wall over a lake, looks safe and fun to a newbie, but I think I'm gonna do this only in December since I know I have a long way to learn the basics and few other thing about security, knots and equipment.

I found this thread awesome. Thank you, guys. Oh, this picture is about the things I call "playgrounds," is really fun even only observe then and think about how you will climb it.

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>>929550

Trolling should be subtle.

>>929944
>he's never heard of buildering
get the fuck out of here

>>929944
dat double dubs cleavage

about 3k ft vertical gain barefoot the other day, callouses are finally coming in, the purple toes were real

>>929944

I thought I could have serious discussions about climbing here, I think I should go to another place...

>>930088
>>930099
samefag?

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>>930099
no. this thread belongs on /asp/ for the same reason you don't see surfing threads here

mountaineering makes sense b/c it correlates with backpacking. discussion of climbing, particularly gym climbing, is better sent to /asp/

>>929117
Why do people always think force matters? Impulse is the relevant calculation.

>>930440
correction: it USED to belong on /asp/, but gook moot kicked wwe off of /sp/ and onto /asp/, so now that whole board is a wastepit of /WOOO/ threads where nothing else can live

>>930440
GYM CLIMBING IS /out/ AS FUCK GOD DAMN IT
>>920494

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>>930531
i suspect this thread is so shitposted/butthurt because it BELONGS with /asp/ and the wwe/mma/analgymnastics horde

>>930585
lmao that picture is gold

>>930408

I'm not so pretentious, I'm a really a newbie on climbing, I'm still doing my daily bouldering problems with rock walls, is really fun. People are telling me I'm doing fine, but since I'm very shy and cautious I think I'm gonna just hang around with experienced climbers, watch then climb the rocks in my city and continue only with bouldering for more 6 or 10 months until go to a newbie via of one of our climbing spots. I don't want be a nuisance to people, I really don't want, this why I don't talk much around the veterans and hear what they say to help me and read the stuff about rocks, knots, safety and other few topics they provided me with books and personal notes. I'm really enjoying this, really, this really fun, but I think I need more time to go to a rock outside the gym and climb a via.

>>930724
kill yourself memefag

>>930724
>climb a via
>via ferratas are climbing
just go buy a ladder, faggot. it's cheaper and you'll get the same experience.

Started bouldering a few months ago and I absolutely love it, progress is also pretty fast even though I was ill for a few weeks in december. At around V4/5 right now. Such a shame I didn't think about actual outdoor climbing and now it's winter, definitely going to try that in a few months.

Why are tiny crimps so fun? For some reason I really enjoy it when you can only use 2-3 fingers and have to try really hard just to stay on the wall. Delicious sidepulls and gastons.

Why are dihedrals so boss

>>933235
good feet + meh hands + awesome exposure

Rescently started tree climbing. Using SRT is it dangerous if ropes become wet?

>>933543
check rope specifications
>material used
>method of construction
>specialty rope treatments

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>>918397
I work at a climbing gym as well, Don't overthink anything.