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Fallkniven F1 (fake?)

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Thread replies: 78
Thread images: 10

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Is this thing original or not. I'm sure someone knows...
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What makes you suspect it's a fake?
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>>843740
Scratch that, looking closer it seems it might be. The sheath nylon looks a little wrong and that doesn't seem convexed
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>>843741
Lanyard loop is wrong too and at least in your pics there isn't any evidence of the laminated layer's line.
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>>843741
>>843742

got pointed to this on /k/

https://www.fallkniven.com/en/product-information/counterfeit/

Your expertise checks out man. It's a fake. Thanks.
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fake
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Fake

The grind is how you tell

If you can get one for real cheap, they're actually pretty good knives for the price.

I've got an F1 and a C1 (my designation for the Chink copy), and they work about the same.
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>>844087

To add:

The Chink copy is probably a better knife than a Mora if you can get them for the same price
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>>844087
>>844111
Coolio
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>>844087
>If you can get one for real cheap, they're actually pretty good knives for the price.

I was going to write exactly this.
For the 15-20 dolaridoos they are great knives actually. It's a shame they stole the design and did a fake instead of just doing a lookalike.
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>>843713
As a person who has handled and used a real genuine F1, i can tell just by this picture that it's a fake, if you look at the grind you can see two things: 1) It's a flat grind, not a convex and 2) It's a very rough finish, too rough to be considered even a factory 2nd. Plus the "Fällkniven Lam. VG10" logo is very poorly and cheapily etched.
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>>843712
>>844451
Also, the pommel should be exposed on a real one, this one's is not
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What steel do you think the chink copies use? I'd assume some shitty recycled Chinese bicycle steel
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>>844399

Yeah. the copying right down to the minor details is pretty on the nose.

Removing the brand name, and just leaving it all blank; the box and marked blade, for example, would be better.

The RAT copies you can pick up have some silly USMC EXTREME or some shit in place of official Ontario/ESSE markings, which is generally showing more respect for the originals.

Nonetheless, the F1 copy is a good knife for 10-20 dollars. I've never noticed any difference in the various steels in regards to practical work.

I've batoned the hell out of the F1-copy for giggles, and it's still going strong.
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>>844452

The tang extends on the Chink copy just like the real deal. It's probably the angle of the picture.

>>844500

5Cr15MoV or something similar.

Chink cheap steel for their knives, whether kitchen or hunting, isn't usually bad steel.
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>>844507
It's not bad, but it's not very good either it's mediocre at best
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>>843711
strange:
sheath colored logo
it doesnt look full tang
it is not from mora
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>>844544
eh?
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>>844502
Why does the copying matter?

Fallkniven still gets to use their mark, they haven't lost anything.
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>>844552
Well the person buying it loses something- their money that would've gone into the real deal had the person been smart enough to realize that you can't buy a real F1 for $20 off some chink web site
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>>844552

It can trick people
It's not showing respect to the owners of the original

I have no problem with the actual knives themselves; steel isn't the best, but it's not bad. Fittings aren't much different to the real one.

Really, if I was Fallkniven, I'd make a budget F1 with a simple 440C-tier blade, and sell them for about half the price. There's clearly a market for the F1-style knife but cheaper.
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>>844500
>melted down a 1988 GT performer to make a crapticular knife.

Life sucks.
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>>844805
The reason any Falky knife is so expensive is because a convex grind is difficult and expensive to do right, so they'd have to make one in a different grind
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>>844805
>Really, if I was Fallkniven, I'd make a budget F1 with a simple 440C-tier blade, and sell them for about half the price. There's clearly a market for the F1-style knife but cheaper.

Not half but it is ~$50 cheaper
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>>844942
Why does it look convexed in your pic but in any other pic it's an obvious flat grind?
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>>844946
Looking at the finish there I'd say whoever owns it convexed it himself, it's not exactly mission impossible.
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>>844899

The laminated VG-10 would add a lot to it compared to basic stainless
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>>844949
That's probably the 2 reasons it's expensive: the steel is expensive and because it's so hard to grind, it adds a lot to the price because it's time consuming and hard to grind into a proper grind. That being said, my friend owns one and the leather sheath is kinda crap, the welt is wavy instead of straight.
>>844948
Isn't that misleading and possibly fraud, posting pictures of a knife that you're selling yet it's a different knife or a different design
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>>844955
Heh, didn't even realise it was from a shop, just a google pic.
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>>844969
Yeah it says "Knifecenter.com" in the bottom left corner, i'd expect something like that from some Chinese website, not a respected retailer like Knifecenter
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>>844948
Definitely looks like some experienced hands tinkered with it judging not only by the convex grind but the good looking polish, almost a budget F1 really, all you gotta do is regrind it and blamo you have a great alround knife
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>>844969
>fake lamination line
top kek for Cold Steel trying to profit off the F1 design while cheaping out on quality and worksmanship
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>>845075
dude colds steel has laminated knives for some years are you living in a cave or something?
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>>844948
wait people actually do that? who the fuck wants convex if he can have straight?
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>>845156
Convex is far superior to ffg in most instances say for sharpening since it requires skill to do. But convex is more durable and bites deeper because it has no shoulder to cause friction.
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>>845152
I'm not sure from what i hear it's just plain non-laminated VG1 though i might be wrong, either way the grind is fucking ugly and unaccpetable for $150, it doesn't have to be polished but for the love of fuck is it that hard to not make it look like it was sharpened with 120 grit sandpaper?
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>>845162
>convex is more durable
maybe, but really you must be doing something wrong if this is a consideration
>and bites deeper
most definitely does not
>because it has no shoulder to cause friction.
dumbest shit i ever read on this board anon
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>>845169
A convex causes less friction WHEN DONE RIGHT, but for a full convex you need a thick stock thickness, but it is expensive to be done right and some brands are doing it wrong like Fällkniven (IMO), there's a reason axes are convex, it's because it causes less friction therefore goes deeper in the wood. Hope this clears it off along with pic related
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>>845174
fixed it for you
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>>845210
What material are you cutting that it wraps around the bevel like that? Look at some of Virtuovice's videos, you can clearly see how well a convex bites into soft dry wood compared to a ffg
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>>845075
Heh, the master hunter is a decade older than the F1 and they're made in the same city.
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>>845167
They offer VG-1 and laminated VG-1, that's the laminated version. It's also $95 not $150.
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so where might one find these fakes?
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>>845393
nevermind

I found them
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>>844111

hahahahahahahaha

oh, man, you're serious! hahahahah

It's counterfit. The intention is to rip you off! It'll be a shit knife. There will be ZERO manufacturer intention to provide you with a good product.
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>>844500

Yes, you can assume it's recycled toasters. It'll be a shit knife.

There might be two distinct groups that will want you to believe this is a good use of your money: the assholes trying to sell you counterfits and the assholes who don't know any better because their entire width and breadth of outdoor experience is from the internet.
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>>845162

noooooo

convex is what you put on an splitting axe or a froe, to push the fibers apart. You only put it on a knife if you want wood carving to be a frustrating miserable experience.

A convex grind is for batonfags that don't know what they're doing with a $400 knife.
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>>845620
Actually any axe will have a convex grind, except maybe a splitting axe because nobody's gonna waste time for fine tuning an edge on an ax that'll get fucked by rocks and hard knots. A convex is a good grind, sure it's not great for carving but 8 out of 10 times i don't carve in the woods, i've carried a convex Mora before and it works just fine for most tasks
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>>845361
The MSRP and generally it is being sold for $159.99 or around that price, Knifecenter i know has it for $95, but if they are valuing their knife at 160 buckaroos you'd expect them to have enough of a spine to put a nice finish on the blade and make the edge not look like it was ground by some chink with 120 grit sandpaper
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>>845639
No, it sells for under $100 at nearly every online retailer, the 3v version sells for more. Also there is nothing wrong with a coarse finished edge in a high carbide stainless steel.
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>>845650
Normally i wouldn't care for the edge finish, but when you pretend like your knives are the best of the best (as CS do in ANY one of their videos) then that kind of finish on a blade isn't helping your point, looks do matter for a lot of people and is part of being "the best"
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>>845638
>Actually any axe will have a convex grind
i thought so until i bought a fiskers.
all my previous axes were convex and i suffered a lot with them.
fiskers is way way better at cutting wood and it's straight basically a knife grind.
only thing is it's more vulnerable you have to watch what you are doing.
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>>845638

You hit rocks with you axe? You are doing it wrong! Really wrong!

And splitting axes DO have convex grinds. It's to push the fibres apart rather than cut them.

And Mora's aren't convex AFAIK. At least the 7 I've purchased aren't.

>>845843
Ya well, fiskars are shit compared to a traditional splitting axe. I've had both and I'll never even look at one of those over-the-bit-plastic-molded abominations again.

I bought one of these: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/yardworks-4-5-lb-splitter-wood-handle-axe-0575127p.html#srp

You should see the huge logs I'm able to split with it! I should make a video of it next time I'm out at the cabin.

I had a fiskars "splitting axe" and it was a pile of moose shit compared to what I have now.

That and a HB hatchet are all I need.
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>>845926
>Ya well, fiskars are shit compared to
well nothing i ever tried cuts and splits better so whatever. also even if some axes are actually better not for that price man they are the "dollar mora" of axes.
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>>845843
I find that my Husqvarna axe that i reground works much better than any flat ground axe, i think the reason Fiskars work so well is because of the large bevel because they come with a scandi grind, they'd probably cut even better with a convex.
>>845926
No, i don't hit rocks but if you are splitting on the same stump you'll eventually have dirt and rocks on the stump that will fall out of the bark of the tree, splitting axes do come convex most of the time, that or a fat wedge design but most people don't bother with putting a super nice edge on it and most just sharpen them with a file, and Mora's don't come convex, i reground mine to convex.
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>>845976

The link I posted:

>Regular Price: $35.99

Comparable Fiskars splitting axe: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/fiskars-splitting-axe-36-in-0575116p.html#srp

>Regular Price: $76.99

I think you just haven't tried the other axes in the category so you don't know what you're missing.

>>845985
I have a Husqvarna and it's not flat ground.

And if you're hitting rocks, ever, you're doing it wrong.

I sharpen with a file and I have no problem maintaining a convex edge. It's not that hard.
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>>845992
I didn't say it came flat ground, i'm saying i played with the edge to make it up to my standard since they come with a short bevel and and i removed the shoulder from the bevel, bark contains dirt, rocks (small one but still rocks) and other filth, if you're splitting on the same stump and you go through the entire length of the log your splitting and hit the stump, sooner or later you'll get chips, maybe small one or maybe large ones, you're either lying, in denial or plain ignorant if you don't understand that very simple concept, that's why a splitting ax has a more obtuse and dull edge rather than a fine and razor sharp edge. Pretty hard to keep a convex with a only a file since you can't really raise and lower the angle as you would have to to keep it a constant and nice convex, but i do see some people putting a secondary flatter bevel or micro bevel on their axes for extra durability though i have no experience with that.
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>>846017
>i played with the edge to make it up to my standard

Pretty Fedora in here.

There are no fucking rocks in the bark. You're just shitty at using your axe. You're probably missing/or glancing and hitting the ground, or your chopping wood on gravel and chopping through to the gravel. Either way, it's avoidable and entirely your fault. I literally NEVER get chips and big dents in my axe edge. It's all about being smart.

Also, I'm not stupid enough to swing directly into a knot. I'll use a wedge if I have to to lever-split around it if I have to, but usually I just end up with a really big knot-chunk here and there that I'll just burn whole.

And you can so sharpen a convex edge with a flat tool, like a file. It just takes a little technique and finesse. I do it all the time, and I learned it in a training class for Scout leaders. I'm not a scout leader, but I attended because parents were allowed. Having said that, I bring a small wood backed strop with me and most of the time that's all it takes to touch up. I'll use that a dozen times before I have to crack out the file.
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>>845992
in murrica fiskers sure is expensive
never mind then
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>>844544

Well, that's just about the weirdest non-sequitur post I've ever seen, but still oddly compelling.

Also: That's a fuckload of bugs.
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>>845615

Mine is experience

I've battoned the fuck out of wood with it. The edge is easy to sharpen.

It's better than a Mora Companion or Bushcraft simple because it's full tang. All else is about the same.

If you can pick one up for $15, you should.

I've run into others that have had the same experience as me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDRiRIFkxSo
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>>846051
Yes reprofiling an edge because it comes fuck ugly is now a fedora and stupid move according to /out/, but then again this thread is more for shitposting than for actual facts, so maybe i should be crying how everyone who doesn't own 50 moras is a cuck.
The only time i can actually see keeping a convex edge with files is if you use a fine file or a bastard and push lightly. I'm luck enough that i have never chipped my axe by hitting rocks, i'm just basically reciting what i read, which doesn't matter to me since i don't use my regular axe for splitting i use a shitty old splitting axe that has a dull edge that i just sharpen with a bastard file since splitting isn't about sharpness. I'm not even 100% that there ARE rocks for certain, i'm just blindly following what i read on Gränsfors website since they probably know more collectively than you or I, also the Forest Service recommends to remove bark where you'll be sawing with a crosscut saw, but a saw's teeth are much higher in HRC than an axe so i guess it wouldn't be an issue, i have ruined a chainsaw chain or two while cutting some fallen ash that had dirt and rocks under the bark, but that isn't common in trees
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>>846358
It's an okay knife to abuse and do rough work with, but for feathersticks, food prep maybe and other fine work i'll leave it up to a Mora
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>>846358
You know that with Mora's breaking 9 out of 10 times it's the blade snapping, not the polymer breaking? I've seen people smash handles on Mora's with a sledgehammer and they didn't break, the plastic they use is damn tough. And no way will a flat grind compare for finer tasks to a scandi grind
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>>846352

um, canadiantire, CANADIANtire.

>>846358
>I've battoned the fuck out of wood with it.

Internet commando

>>846485
>Yes reprofiling an edge because it comes fuck ugly is now a fedora and stupid

You said it. Actually, you said it didn't meet your "standard" or some shit. Yes, re profiling a scandi grind because it doesn't meet your "standard" is fedora as fuck.

Does the forest service tell you there are rocks in the bark that will chip your axe? Can you show me the document?

I didn't think so.

Your stupid excuse for shitty axe usage is as fedora as the rest of the bullshit you say.

>>846487
>>846533
These guys know what's up.
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>>847578
I didn't reprofile a scandi grind (well i did but on a Mora for shits and giggles), i reprofiled the shitty edge that comes standard with a Husqvarna ax, i'll admit i worded it very fedor-esque so i'll rephrase it, i reprofiled it because it came very poorly ground and i didn't like the look of the edge. Also, i never chipped my axe whilst chopping except some shitty one because i wasn't very experienced with axes back then, the only damage the edge took on my Husqy is when i was splitting old 2x4's and i accidentally hit a nail, but there was no huge chips, just a minor roll and a micro chip
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>>847771
>...splitting old 2x4's and i accidentally hit a nail...


>>846051
>...it's avoidable and entirely your fault. I literally NEVER get chips and big dents in my axe edge. It's all about being smart.

Like I said.
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>>846487

Depends on what you want it for

I'd rather a beater that can do all tasks well enough
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>>847826
I'd rather a light knife that can do fine tasks excellent and that isn't meant for abuse, if i want a beater, i'll carry a knife for just that
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I got into contact with the makers of this knife.

They use VG-10 that's left over from kitchen knives from another company.

So, the steel is good.
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>>849619
It's laminated VG10, VG10 is the center steel and it's surrounded by 420J2 on the outsides for corrosion ressistance. It's pretty fucking common knowledge what steel they use
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>>843711

Fake

Grind is shit and not convex

Sheath letters are wrong. Instead of F1 it says Fällkniven

Guard is wrong
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>>849690
He's talking about the clone...
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>>849979
Doubt it, if they actually said it chances are they're full of shit, VG10 would be far more costly than $20, it's a hard steel thus it needs some time on a grinder even with chink child sweat shop workers it would cost more than $20
Thread posts: 78
Thread images: 10


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