Best chainsaw for cutting firewood?

>>1070362
Stihl or Husqvarna?

I forgot to say that the wood will mostly be oak, walnut and other hardwoods I still can't identify.

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>>1070362
I hope you are practicing coppicing and pollarding for infinite firewood.

Just about any moderate length Stihl chainsaw will be perfect. If you are not familiar with chainsaws I recommend watching several youtube safety videos (by familiar mean 2 years of chainsaw use with training); even then a refresher is always good before the season starts. Death and disfigurement are good motivators on brushing up on safety.

Sounds comfy, hope you have fun.

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>>1070388
tfw got them backwards, fixed image

>>1070391
this is how one harvests firewood as opposed to just cutting trees down. my shitty shit trash neighbor just goes out and cuts trees down in the middle of spring or summer and leaves dead clearings and brush patches innawoods for fucking decades because the forest doesn't recover. me and my dad cut during winter and the stumps survive and sprout and multiply.

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>>1070363
this. they're basically interchangeable. i have a husky because my nearest service center handles husky. but i'd have been just as happy with a stihl if that was more convenient to get worked on.

and don't underestimate the convenience of having a smaller electric saw too to lop up limbs and stuff. you don't even need earplugs for them. i just went to home depot and got some $80 whatever, and it's great-quiet and quick.

>>1070399
Yeah, no one, where I live, uses any type of coppicing or pollarding. I'm the only person that does it. Everyone clear cuts. They don't even replant. It just turns into scrub land for years on end and causes problems with drainage, washing out, silt, flooding, etc, until it is finally able to recover enough to lock in the soil and stop erosion.

>>1070388
>>1070391
well, thanks, but that looks complicated, and leaves a lot of ugly tree trunks imho
i was just thinking about harvesting fallen trees here and there and leave them somewhere to dry
is it not a viable option?
the wood from fallen trees is covered with moss and sometimes full of bugs
can it be a problem?

>>1070399
>>1070420
how do you decide what to cut down?
you just trust your feelings?

i think i also need to get a brushcutter, because the woodland is full of thorns and shit sometimes.
is there anything i need to know if the goal is to have a nice little wood where one can just walk in between trees?

>>1070450
This is going to sound dumb, but just walk around for a bit until you find a nice spot in the middle, bring out a 50 gal drum of oil/kerosene mix and just tip it over. Now once it's all good and spread light and run. After it cools off no more brush and the trees that survived you know they aren't pussies.

>>1070451
won't they be all burned and fucked up?
also the neighbors will call the fire department kek

>>1070441
Using deadfall trees is fine! It is recommended to do that first before cutting anything live. Also, those methods are not complicated. You merely cut the tree down in the winter when the sap has gone down into the roots. Next season it sprouts tons of shoots that will grow into perfect firewood sized trunks in a few years. You just repeat the process every few years. If you have lots of woods you can stagger the cutting so that you can cut firewood every single year, but in a different location.

I find that they only look ugly in the winter when they lose their leaves. Pollarding leaves the growth higher up so that you can easily walk around between the trees. I think it looks better and is more functional especially if you have livestock in the area or want to hunt deer in that location.

>>1070445
Anything over 6 inches in diameter is a good candidate to start coppicing or pollarding. A few years later, when the trunks are grown to perfect thickness for firewood you cut them off. Then you have lots of logs that you never need to split, because they are already the perfect thickness.

>>1070451
4chan is an 18+ only website, kid.

>>1070457
I was half way fucking around, but it would definitely clear shit up as controlled burns, but you'd need to research it for laws in your area.

>>1070460
>>1070460
>>1070457
>>1070451
>>1070450
The correct answer is, "Goats."

>>1070464
goats won't eat thorns
r-right?

>>1070467
They're devious little shits, would not surprise me at all that they can eat thorns.

>>1070410
ok
maybe i'll get a cheap electric chainsaw
but how do you decide what size is convenient for the big one? (engine and bar)
also, do i need some expensive security shoes?
gloves?
glasses?
a helmet?

>>1070470
i think you may have misunderstood me-you'll want BOTH, especially if you're cutting a lot of hardwood. electric is good to maybe 6-8", anything bigger and you'll want a real saw. my saw is 50ccs with a 20" bar, which will be fine for 99+% of all homeowner needs.

you'll also want to buy a sledgehammer, splitting wedge, and splitting maul, and learn what wood to split green and what to split dry.

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>>1070467
>>1070468
They strip the leaves off the thorns, which ends up killing the plants. They can clear scrub rather effectively.

>>1070485
nice

>>1070478
no, i got it, i meant maybe i'll get a cheap electric in addition to the thermal one
i just wanted to know about the 50ccs with a 20" bar
how do i know about splitting green or dry?
trial and error?
and how do i get rid of these small annoying conifers full of sticky resin btw?

>>1070485
can sheep do the same?

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>>1070485
This was impassable brush.
The picture is after Goats.

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>>1070388
>>1070391
How do you do this with tall trees like Post Oak or Cedar Elm?

>>1070518
Sheep are grazers not browsers. You need browsers like goats and deer. Grazers are for grass like cows and sheep. Sheep are good lawn mowers, but goats are not.

>>1070526
The same as any other tree. Cut it when it is dormant. Google up the specific methods.

>>1070520
Nice. I need to get a few goats for my place again. Things are getting too thick and weedeating is a bitch with no real benefits.

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>>1070362
>he doesn't use stick snapper.

>>1070516
gotcha. oak's fresh, because it twists as it dries and then you're fucked. pine, fir, etc. are dry. google any others you want to know.

finally, chop up and burn the resiny fuckers, just like the rest. they'll burn a bit dirtier, but hot as hell, and as long as you clean the chimney at the start of the season the extra creosote is a non-issue.

>>1070541
won't the resin fuck up the chainsaw?

>>1070537
We have someone here who rents 'em out along with electric fencing so you can move them around when they've stripped the area that they're in.

>>1070530
If your zone will support them try to introduce Black or Honey Locust; you'll never want for wood again.

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>>1070362
>>1070363
My Husqvarna 359 20" bar is almost 10 years old and has been a total beast. I work at a summer camp in the middle of the High Uintas in Utah and I do a ton of trail maintenance for the first few weeks of June and my Husqy has never let me down. I keep it maintained and the chains sharp and that thing just keeps sawing up the deadfall year after year. We also have a couple Stihls that are a bit older than the Husq but they haven't held up very well. Would recommend a Husqvarna.

Nothing out runs a husky. Just one mans opinion. It's kind of the same analogy as ford vs chev. Ford trucks n husky saws have paid for my university n house n many toys. Don't be a dumb ass use safety gear including chaps. It's not a matter of if you're gonna get a scare but when

>>1070571
>introducing locust
FUCK YOU

That shit spreads to other people's property and outcompetes native species. Someone planting a single copse of black locust 45 miles away from my farm 30 years ago caused basically the entire county to be infested.

That shit is also hell on chainsaw chains. Second hardest wood I've ever cut, only slightly behind osage orange.

>>1070728
Bullshit. Been using a chainsaw regularly for 28 years and haven't even come close to having an accident.

28 years a couple of weekends a year is not regular. 60 hours a week for past 25 years. Shit goes sideways sometimes no matter how good you are. Never had a saw kick back at you. A tree bounce wrong way or hang up. Your lying plain and simple

>>1070739

Locust is a pioneer species, it pops up in clear cut before most other hardwoods, then dies once it's light is encroached. It's also a legume root crop, so it fixes nitrogen in the soil for the aid of other species. And it's only hard to cut because it's great firewood. I get an erection when I'm cutting and splitting it.

>>1070744
I maintain around 630 acres of bottom ground farmland. I run a chainsaw an average of 25 hours a week year round, and have for years.

I've had trees go where I don't want them, I've gotten bars stuck, I've hit rocks trying to cut roots. I've never come remotely close to cutting myself.

That doesn't mean I don't wear safety gear though.

>>1070728
Stihl and Chevy have better equipment though. That's historical track record, not redneck fanboying.

>>1070740
You are a stupid shit. Always wear safety gear. Don't ever post again.

>>1070762
And you apparently can't read.

>>1070740

You're an idiot.

Well, "a few acres" is not really much, if you want to have all your heat from it.
I'm used to larger plots and cutting down a selection of full grown trees (15-50" dia) every year, so I'm not used to small size gear.
That said:
A quality chainsaw is still a good idea and safety gear is a must! Get some saw-proof pants and a helmet with ear protection and a face mesh. Shoes are also a good idea, but I don'T use them, since I'm only working in really steep terrain and I haven't found any safety boots that don't introduce more risk for me by sucking ass in rough and rocky terrain, so I just use my heavy mountaineering boots, but if you have flat terrain, some cheap ones are a good idea.
And leanr how to use you saw. Also, falling trees and tree parts can really fuck you up. Watch out for swinging crowns of the trees that remain standing after you felt one. Often a lot of dangerous sized branches will keep falling after you think everything is done.
Is there anyone offering courses on that shit in you area? Really reccomend one!
Gear:
I hate the crap you get at home-depot and similar, but you musn't have a pro tool, but get semi pro at least. My small favorite is the Stihl 260. If you are a weeb, Echo is also quite nice.

>>1070858
thanks for the input
do you think i can go around and ask if i can collect wood from other people once i'm done with my plot?
do people do that?
how long would it take for me to stop being a noob?
is it worth the effort?
or should i just mind my own shit?

Have been making wood for my whole life.
Any Stihl is the way to go!
For axes try Ochsenkopf.

>>1070792
>muh anecdotal evidence means everything is okay for everyone!!!

Idiot. Always wear safety gear.

>>1070888
Please point out where I said I dont or that people shouldn't. Please, for the love of being argumentative.

>>1070888
>>1071100
stop it

>>1071201
This

>>1071100
It was heavily implied right in >>1070740

Anecdotal evidence about your experiences in safety are not worth someone else's life. you can't call "bullshit" on something like that. Remember 4chan is an 18+ only board.

>>1071291
>hurr YOU WILL have at least a close call if not an accident 100% guaranteed if you use a chainsaw ever!
>bullshit, I never have
I still don't see how anybody extrapolated anything at all about safety gear out of that, considering safety gear wasn't mentioned one way or the other.

I also said point out where I STATED it, not where your underdeveloped education thought it found a vague and convoluted pseudo implication.

Also, you fucks are almost as bad as the negligent discharge thread on /k/

>>1071315
>Don't be a dumb ass use safety gear including chaps. It's not a matter of if you're gonna get a scare but when
>Bullshit. Been using a chainsaw regularly for 28 years and haven't even come close to having an accident.

That is where the implication is. Now either say what you mean and mean what you say or stop posting. I'm not holding your hand any further, kid.

>>1071315
>>1071342
plz
>>1071201
>>1071236

https://youtu.be/VqmIXjXhTt8

Ok Op,
You are after getting alot of different advice here,
I am going to break down for you what you need

1) Chainsaws
Husqvarna and Stihl , were both recommended to you. Personally I dont like sithl, as I have found the build quality has gone way down in the last few years. I am new to Husqvarna, have only been using a husqvarna chainsaw in the last 3 years. I am happy with it.
Oleo Mac is the brand I use for all my 2 stroke equipment, strimmers, hedge cutters, etc

So you buy whichever brand you think,
But there are really 2 classes of chainsaws, Hobby and Professional. Those "homestead " class saws are only hobby saws. They arent worth a damn, unless you are only doing a few hours work a year.

Watch some chainsaw safety videos on youtube, Husqvarna and Stihl, both have a series of videos. They will show you how to handle it, clean, and different cuts. Watch and learn.
For sharpening, get a handfile with a guidebar. The videos will also show you how to properly sharpen your chain.

Husqvarna do a very good low smoke 2 stroke oil, Id recommend it. and I would recommend sticking with one brand of chain oil.

2) Safety Gear
A helmet with the ear protection and face guard is essential. I hated wearing it at first, but even trimming a few branches , its saved me from a few nasty cuts. When buying your chainsaw, you can probably do a deal on the safety gear
Chaps, are handy as you just put them on over your pants. Chainsaw pants are good also but can be more expensive
Steel toe cap boots are fine, dont need chainsaw boots, as your chainsaw should never come that close to your feet
The chainsaw gloves arent great, I find them too big have to take them off when opening the fuel cap or oil cap. Also only the left glove has actual chainsaw protection, as thats the one touch the chain break. just buy a nice pair of work gloves,
Also wear safety glasses when even with the face guard and helmet, As you can still get some fine bits of saw dust into your eye

>>1071574
Continued

3) Firewood
Since you probably have a wood burning stove. the wood you burn needs to be dry, you can burn fresh cut timber, but it will blacken the inside of the stove, and dirty up the chimney and stuff more.
You should read up on stacking and storing firewood, keeping em off the ground and sheltered is good.

Dead wood on the ground is fine to cut and burn, as long as its not all just falling apart. Id however store this would seperate from your fresh cut timber. Watch the videos to learn how to cut stuff on the ground.
Also its worth marking out a tree before cutting it, so as you end up with similar size rings of wood. Makes it easier for stacking and you know they will fit your stove. I keep a small bit of wood which i marked width and height on, and use a hand saw to just put a mark along the tree

When felling a tree, id suggest walking around and looking at whats there, how easy will it to fall, anything its gonna hit on the way down, how easy will it be for you to draw the timber out of there.

Remember when people plant forestry, they might lets say plant 100 trees, but over the years, they will come in and cut out alot of those trees, Thin ouit the forest, to get the other trees to grow more. So maybe at the end of it theres only 50 trees there that are finally cut.

So just when you cut down a tree, take one from one spot, go to another spot and take another.
You will make room and help the other trees grow, and if its a very large clearing, look around for some saplings and plant them

>>1071577
Continued

4) Undergrowth
A strimmer is a good idea, again you need to buy a good brand 2 stroke engine type
They come in single handle or double handle,
Personally I find single handle easier to move around rather than the double handle.
For briars and the such, you can get metal cutting disks that go on the end of them, or else heads that take plastic whip
I use a head called Hawk , or something like that. Found them fantastic, you simply cut your whip to a certain length, and push it in one hole and out another. The traditional heads, came with a spring where you would wind the whip around inside it, and then pull at it to extend it once it breaks away.
I use a heavy guage square shaped whip, but im cutting grass and weeds with mine, not much briars. thats where the metal cutting disc would come in handy for you.
Also they typically come with a strap that you put over your head and hangs down to support the strimmer. I suggest buying the body harness, makes it easier on you when cutting away for a few hours.
Also you need to wear a face guard and safety glasses, as you will have dirt, stones, and shit flying at you, you will also get hit in the legs and dick with stuff
Goats do a great job aswell, but you gotta fence them in

5) Take your time
Whatever you are doing, cutting grass, cutting wood. Stop and take a break , I stop every 25 to 30 minutes. Turn off my equipment to give it a break and give it a chance to cool down. But I also stop to give myself a break. have a drink or a smoke, sit down for 5 minutes, Refuel yourself or machine.
When people rush and dont take a break, thats where accidents happen. its hard work holding onto that chainsaw or strimmer. Take a good few breaks, it will only end up costing you maybe 30 or 40 mins in the day if even that.

Also one final tip, which you go to top up the petrol in your chainsaw, also top up your chain oil. Also make sure you are putting oil in the right tank

>>1071574
>Husqvarna do a very good low smoke 2 stroke oil, Id recommend it.
If you really wanna go all in, go synthetic. Stuff like Aspen. Here in euroland it's mandatory for professional use, since it really cuts down on the harmful emissions. You don't want to breathe standard two stroke fumes all day everyday. But expensive.
>and I would recommend sticking with one brand of chain oil.
Or just use salad oil. Pure rapeseed or something, the cheapes you find at the supermarket.
I'm not kidding. Quite a few forrestry departments I have worked with use it. your chain and your sword are disposable parts anyways, so no need for some theoretical 10 more hours of service life due to some advance chain oil.

>>1071595
>>If you really wanna go all in, go synthetic. Stuff like Aspen. Here in euroland it's mandatory for professional use, since it really cuts down on the harmful emissions. You don't want to breathe standard two stroke fumes all day everyday. But expensive.

Well from the sounds of it, I dont think OP is doing this everyday, its more just for a bit of firewood, so probably 2 to 3 weeks out of the year if even that. I recommended husqvarnas oil, as I have used a good few different ones, and found it good with my petrol mix on older stuff, alot less smoke, plus its handy for making the 5 litre mix

>Or just use salad oil. Pure rapeseed or something, the cheapes you find at the supermarket.
I'm not kidding. Quite a few forrestry departments I have worked with use it. your chain and your sword are disposable parts anyways, so no need for some theoretical 10 more hours of service life due to some advance chain oil.

Ya have heard about people using those oils,.
But I wouldnt agree with your point about the chain and bar. A Bar if maintained properly will last a very long time. Your chain if hand filed, and maintained will also last you a good while.
If you are working for a company, and they are paying for the chainsaw, chains, etc. Then fine, but when its coming out of your pocket thats a different story. I am not throwing away 25 euro on a new chain every other month.
My point about sticking with the one brand of chain oil, is that a few years back I was buying chain oil from a local supplier, it was a bit cheaper in price, and also closer than having to go drive 30 minutes somewhere else. But I noticed the oil was a bit more heavy, and was causing alot more build up on the saw.
Versus another oil I have been using the last few years, does not leave a much gunk all around the saw

once you make sure you keeping your saw clean with an air compressor after use, and not being dog rough with it, you should get plenty of life out of it for many years.

>>1071574
>>1071577
>>1071583
>>1071595
>>1071629
thank you guys

how do you carry the wood around when it's cut? an ATV with a trailer? a mule?

>>1071741
You are welcome, hope my posts helped

Well depends on what equipment you have, I have a skid steer, so I either cut my wood into lengths, and draw it back in the bucket or on the forks.
So you could either cut and split your wood where you fell your tree, then transport it back.
You can either fell the tree, and cut it into lengths and transport that back to your yard, cut and split it there.

Do you have any machinery? such as tractor, skid steer, etc?
Wheelbarrow is another option, but for this, I would suggest cutting your wood and drawing back the blocks of wood. But thats going to take alot of energy and time

You could cut yourself an access road, so you can drive in with your car or pick up. but you arre going to need to cut stumps down load for this.

Also a picture of your land and trees would be useful

>>1070399
Have you tried educating him on the subject? You would be surprised how willing people are willing to adopt beneficial practices if they simply knew about them.
>pro tip
Don't act like a holier than thou fuck face.
Present it as something positive that he can work towards, not as what he is doing currently terrible and he should feel terrible about it.

>>1070556
Not really.
Just clean it.

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>>1071781
No we don't get along. His property is basically a dump, acres of trash, scrap metal, rotting cars, trailers, etc. Over the years they've had various raids from the department of health and building inspectors and always fail - including having an open well in the middle of their poultry farm and thus contaminating the water table. It took a couple decades but they finally got their farm shut down. He used to drive an ice cream truck part time and they found he was storing pig carcasses in the freezers with the ice cream.

Over the years they've also been arrested for illegal trapping, cruelty to animals, and over $250,000 of welfare fraud. When I was a little kid he leveled his greenhouse (just bulldozed the structure and left it all there to rot btw) and built a little backyard ice skating rink, from which he would try to hit me with slapshots through the trees while I played in my yard. He used to light cats on fire and the police believe he's responsible for various arsons in the neighborhood over the years but haven't been able to prove it. Even though the farm is shut down every now and then over the years a state police helicopter can be seen circling their property for about 30 mins. The old man sold the place to his son in the last 10 years or so and he had a wedding right on top of his leech field in his front yard. They're all fucked, we don't talk to them.

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>>1071906

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>>1071629
>Well from the sounds of it, I dont think OP is doing this everyday,
Yeah, sure, but I figured it's worth mentioning. Even the occasional half day in shitty two stroke fumes really can ruin your weekend. Specialized chainsaw oils as the one you mentioned certainly help (compared to the pre-mix for mopeds and such you sometimes can get at gas stations), but for me personally, it's worth the additional €5 per day for "good" fuel.

>But I wouldnt agree with your point about the chain and bar. A Bar if maintained properly will last a very long time. Your chain if hand filed, and maintained will also last you a good while.
True, but it probably also lasts a good while with salad oil. Maybe even longer, if you only use it a few times a year, since salad oil will not gunk up and solidify as some chain oils will during storage. Again, as with the Aspen suggestion, I figure it's worth giving out the info, hoping that OP will do some additional research and draw his own conclusions. But dedicated chain oil is certainly not a bad thing per se.

>how do you carry the wood around when it's cut? an ATV with a trailer? a mule?
I'm only working in steep terrain, so I have a large winch and a tractor that both can pull a few tons. For "detail" work or small stuff, I just use pic related. If you only do small amounts, you probably can cut your tree into meter pieces on location and drag them out with that by hand.

>>1072072
Oh ya like I do agree with some of what you are saying. Didn't mean to sound argumentative or anything like that.
In your situation your working a chainsaw all day every day. So it's a different story to op and people like me. That's why I suggest taking a break every so often.

In regards chainoil. I have read before about using other oils. Haven't tried myself as I'm happy with the particular chain oil I use. I just think for the 2stroke engine. It's best to be consistent with what you put into it. I have had it said to me by a few old men that sell and repair 2 stroke machines, and it's the same for much of the serving of larger machinery such as loading shovels and excavators.

You are absolutely right about those pre mixed crap that are sold. I have two 5 litre semi clear petrol cans which j only use for mixed petrol. I like the semi clear because you can see right away that the petrol is mixed. Husqvarna 2 stroke oil is blue in colour. So makes the petrol obvious it's mixed.
I know large companies buy pre mixed petrol etc. But that's fine when it's a business your running. But don't think you need to bother with that when it's yourself


Also the suggestion of a pickaroon or a hookaroon is a great idea for dragging out lengths of timber.

>>1072105
>Didn't mean to sound argumentative or anything like that.
Don't worry, didn't see it as argumentative anyways. Just wanted to put out some additional info and reasoning. Probably there's also different "tresholds" for how many fumes they can tolerate for different people. I'm very sensible to smells and such.

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>>1071748
>Also a picture of your land and trees would be useful

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>>1072302

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>>1072303
pic related is the worst area
i have no idea what to do with this shit

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>>1072304

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>>1072306

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>>1072302
>>1072303
>>1072304
>>1072305
>>1072306
>>1072307
pics are kind of shitty but it's just the area around the house and it's surprisingly difficult to make an accurate picture
the bigger trees, that are already dead on the floor and will become firewood are further away, but mostly the same as the ones pictured above

>>1072311
Looks awesome, man. I would love to do this, it's a dream of mine some day to have a shit ton of land to do whatever I want on, like gather wood for giant bonfires and shit. What I would do, is get a Gator or UTV of some kind with a good sized bed, and just start making trails and shit on the property by cutting the wood with a chainsaw and an axe. Then you can drive your UTV around on all these trails so you're creating something fun to do in the process of getting all the wood up. Maybe make some big clearings to go and have fires and drink beer with friends, go camping, shoot things, etc. That's what I would do, anyways.

>>1072311
Nice!

>>1072304
>i have no idea what to do with this shit
Figure out what is what (shrub vs tree strangeld by shrubbery) and cut away the shrubbery (you can also use this for heat, but it has low caloric value. Bundle it up with some natural fibre rope and let it dry. https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reisigb%C3%BCndel should give you some pointers, even though it is only available in german) so the trees can grow, so that you can harvest them later. However, keep in mind that "later" means many years, with trees.
And speaking of many years:
>>1072302
If you intend to stay there long term, and the climate permits it, I would put some apple trees on that lot.

>>1072311
And leave the dead wood in your forrest! Its an important habitat for all kinds of (beneficial) bugs and fungy and doesn't do much for heat anyways.

From the looks of it, I would pick the occasional full tree to keep the forrest rejuvenating, "fix" some areas (>>1072304) and maybe go for something like >>1070388 >>1070391 for constant supply.

>>1072304
Your best bet would be to cut it all with garden shears.

>>1072788
Have you ever cleared an area like this?
I just go full on protective gear and engage in close combat with my chainsaw and a specially hardened chain so that I can cut that shit down in the ground.

>>1072793
Yes, usually there's vines and branches to cut every year. OP's a bit luckier, his don't grow on a slope. It doesn't look like stuff that would require a chainsaw, just some vines.

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>>1072788
>>1072793
>>1072796
i went through it already by cutting a way in with pruning shears (hand pruners?)
that was intense kek
i think i'll try my luck in the near future with the biggest husqvarna brushcutter i can afford (probably a 543 RS)

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>>1072813
I'd recommend just the kind of shears with long handles, they don't cost too much, they can cut any thicker branches and you can reach further which is useful around thorns.

>>1072342
thanks
it's been only a dream for a long while as well
keep on truckin!
i'm just done thoroughly exploring the area and i'm just so happy with it
i think an UTV would be overkill but i'm seriously thinking about putting a winch on my car, or getting a couple donkeys or a mule
maybe some sheep as well, as it seems to be what that piece of land was used for in the past
(i found an old derelict stone sheep house in the woods last week)
i will probably grow some things as well, even if i really have no idea what i'm doing kek

>>1072760
>Reisigbündel
nice
>one day i'll be the king of faggots!

why only apple trees?

>>1072813
Ok thanks for the pics.
Firstly you don't need the biggest strimmer they sell. Once you get the head I told you about and a metal cutting disk head you are sorted. No point in having a big heavy strimmer on you all day. Look atvthe weight and go for something that is in the professional class.

Some of those tall briars. You can clip them or run the chainsaw along them
Then use a shovel or a pike just to pull them onto the ground. They will for away

Any of your trees with ivy on them. Cut the ivy at the bottom. Like cut an inch section out of it. That will kill the ivy. Give the tree more of a chance.
Also just leave the ivy on the tree it will die then and fall off . Works fine for kindling after

Those dead trees are going to be hard on your chain and saw. Dry timber will take the edge off your saw quick than fresh timber.
If it's very rotten then don't bother with it. Like if it breaks apart when you kick then move on

If you got oak and fruit trees then. But a smoker and you can smoke your own meat.

Once you start clearing some of them weeds. Falling a few trees. You will start seeing new trees popping up. You could always pull up some of the small saplings and put them into a few pots water and feed them for replanting where you want them later on.

Practice your cutting on some of the smaller trees.
I'll post up some pictures of my gear to give you a better idea of what you might need. Also can I ask you what country your living in?

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Ok so here is a hand pruner or anvil chopper as it's called. Bought this one for 12 euro in Lidl. Would be good for you cutting ivy , briars etc. Can chop something an inch thick

Next to it is a hand saw I bought for 5 euro in Lidl.

>>1072844
i'm in france, in a truffle area, wich can be nice, i might look into that soon
i've got a feeling i could almost be varg's neighbor kek
also /biz/ told me to put some ginseng and/or mushrooms there so why the fuck not?
maybe i'll go for some hipster poultry and sheep as well, but i'm too much of a faggot to kill anything myself (i'm almost vegetarian), so i'd like to just get eggs, milk, cheese and wool from them, which is not a viable option it seems (meat is more viable)
i'd like to have some kind of sheepdog maybe, as they're really crazy clever and stuff
so really, i have no idea what i'm doing
i might also try to get some extra income from tourism (log cabins or safari tents)
are you in germany?

>>1072973
cool!

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Continued:

I'm not posting my stuff to show off. Just so as OP can get an idea of what stuff he might need.
I did not just go out and buy everything in one go. It's been bought over a number of years.

Anyways these are the chainsaw chaps and helmet as was suggested to you in the thread.
You can see the clear visor I use for when I'm strimming. I always wear safety glasses underneath even with the visor. Better to keep your eyes

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Now this is my oleo strimmer. This is a single handle model. Much easier to move around than the double or twin handle models.
This is not the biggest model they do. The reason I didn't buy the biggest model is due to the weight. Once you buy one of the professional class models. Check the weight. A little more horse power isn't worth more weight to be carrying around for hours

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Continued
This is the strimmer head I mentioned earlier. It's called hurricane or hawk.
You cut the cut to a length. Push it in one hole and the other end into the second hole. As you can see in the pic.

Much better then the typical heads where you had to wind it around and pull at it to extend it

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This is a pole saw with a built in pruner. It extends out to 2 metres or more. Cost me about 20 euro in Lidl or aldi . It's not something you need badly. But would be handy later on if you just want to cut off a few limbs near your house or whatever.
Second thing is a hookaroon. Another anon posted a pic of a pickaroon. They are handy for moving lengths f timber

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The yellow things are plastic felling wedges. You hammer them in when falling a tree to stop your chainsaw from getting pinched. They are made of plastic so if you accidently hit the saw against them then they won't ruin the chain. I would suggest buying 2 large ones as they are essential when cutting down a tree.
Above them is a medium size felling axe . I use the back of the axe head to hammer in the wedges.

The orange boxes are chain boxes that stihl make. I bought them as they are useful for storing old chainsaw chains. Old chains you can sharpen and use for cutting shitty timber like rotten or dirty stuff or near the ground. That way if they get fucked up you haven't ruined a brand new chain

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This is my tool box for all my chainsaw related stuff. It's on wheels so can bring in with me where ever I'm cutting.
The red thing on the left . Is a stump vice. You hammer that into a stump , ring of timber or on a fell tree. That will hold the bar of the chainsaw while you sharpen your chain. That's essential unless you are happy to walk back hone everyone you want to sharpen it.
Metal magnetic tree. Very handy when taking off your chain or bar cant loose the nuts.
You can see the handful with guide bar. That tells u what angle your going at. You also need a flat file for doing the takers. Other stuff in there is some allen keys, tape, etc

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Continued.
These are my chainsaws. 2 oleo Macs and one husqvarna

You can see the small saw I have. I use it for cutting smaller stuff. Don't actually use it as often as I thought I would. They are a little dirty as I've been using them and haven't cleaned them yet.

A small air compressor is something you need. It's the best way for cleaning stuff. Just blow off all the saw dust or whatever. Just make sure you have the choke pulled to stop any shit getting into the carbarator

I also have a stihl poke saw with extension for cutting high limbs but didn't think you needed to see that.

Anyways that's some of my stuff. So you can keep an eye out for stuff like that which can help you

Get a Husqvarna
Easyist to maintain
It's what professional fallers use for a reason
Neer where I live there is a place called walker power. The previous owners (the walker brothers) used to have a thing they did called "walkerizing" basically voiding the the warenty by boring out the intake and exaust hole polishing the parts to a shine so stuff didn't stick to them as easily (less cleaning) and putting vents in the muffler (less back pressure more power more noise) if you find a service like this I suggest that you try it

holy shit that's not wood cutting, that's a subculture

>>1072983
>>1072987
>>1072992
>>1072995
>>1073016
>>1073019
>>1073023
nice!
is it what you do for a living?
how much land do you manage?

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>>1073096
Haha no not for a living. I enjoy cutting timber but wouldn't do it for a living. I have a few hundred acres of farm land. So most of my trees are on the bounds ditches so I only cut one of those if it's dead or falls in a storm. Because I have fencing wire up around for cattle.
But I have a good grove on trees on another bit of land that I take a few from every year.
My main cutting is for my elderly family members . They have open fires and would have the fire lit from morning to night so they burn alot more compared to me since I've a stove in my house and only light it at night during the winter.

You can see some of the trees I fell for them . I make firewood and also chop the rings up to make kindling for starting the fire. Have some elderly neighbours that I also cut firewood for

>>1073055
Well, we were thrown out of /sips/general because of a preference for sugared sips, so we started something new…

>>1072987
>>1072995
Is that a strimmer harness in the second one? Do those work with single handed ones? Never like the singles, always prefered heavy two handers and a proper harness. So much easier to swing without tiring and less vibrations on your arms.

>>1073023
OP, for a start, one saw is most likely enough, if you get a general purpose mid size one. You just tend to collect those things after a while… subculture and such.

>>1073019
>Is a stump vice. You hammer that into a stump , ring of timber or on a fell tree. That will hold the bar of the chainsaw while you sharpen your chain. That's essential unless you are happy to walk back hone everyone you want to sharpen it.
Never felt the need for one. I just sharpen my chains at home and have the chains with me, so that I can simply exchange them when needed. Much faster and easier.

>>1073051
>It's what professional fallers use for a reason
But they also use Stihl, Solo, Echo and probably a few more brands. Whats the local favorite probably depends on your country and what kind of dealers you have around. As long as you don't get some cheap off-brand crap from home-depot or similar, you'll likely be fine if your working on OPs level.

>>1070362

Husqvarna

>>1073394
No I'm not OP. I'm just sharing some info and stuff that I have. To give him an idea of what would be useful to him.

I have a twin handle strimmer. But prefer the single handle. Plenty of power, a little lighter and way easier to move around. Especially since I'm cutting grass along a road and a river bank. If ok is cutting around trees , single hand is less likely to get caught in stuff. But look it's what you are used to and prefer.
My harness in the pic is a full body harness. Not the single trap one that goes over your head and cuts into your neck.

I found a stump vice great. I'm not pulling off a chain. Just giving a quick clean out. Sharpen it away and back to cutting

Well I'm not collecting saws lol I'm a bit obsessed with them alright. But in my pic there you can see the saw on the left that chainsaw is a good 15 years old. Was laying idle on a shelf in a garage until I started using. The small limbing saw in the middle. I bought new about maybe 4 years ago and the husqvarna was a birthday present from about 4 years ago.
But for me each one if those is there for a specific type of job I'm doing.

>>1073441
>No I'm not OP. I'm just sharing some info and stuff that I have
I was just addressing OP, saying that he does not really NEED multiple saws just to get started. One good mid sized one goes a long way, if you dont have any special needs (cutting branches while on the tree, requiring a light,single handed saw, felling huge trees, requiring a strong and heavy saw with a huge sword…etc)
>But for me each one if those is there for a specific type of job I'm doing.
This kinda develops naturally, if you start to realize what you need apart form a multipurpose one. Oh, and then there is this:
>lol I'm a bit obsessed with them alright.
I'm also starting to show symptoms of that…
Can become an expensive hobby very quickly.

>>1073457
Oh ya I know. I was thinking of buying the oleo mac 999 f chainsaw a few years back. It's the biggest saw they do. Haha fucking thing is a beast but I know I don't really need it and the weight of thing would probably kill me. But we can still dream. I am happy about buying a pole saw though. I've alot of trees around my garden , lawn and along my driveway. So made life alot easier when I trimmed up the sides if them this year.
Would have taken me ages if I used the hand pole saw I posted a picture of. But my only advice with buying one is to use the full body harness . I use the one I have for strimming. Made a huge difference when I can the extension on

But all the stuff I posted there for OP. Now I'm talking about the hand tools, file , tool box etc. All that stuff I bought cheap.
Like I probably got all that over the years for proba my less than 150 euro. Not including the safety stuff.
But my point is there's essential stuff you have to buy safety gear , hand file etc

The other stuff you can get bit my bit over time

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>>1070362
>>1070362
Oh shit a chainsaw thread!

Others have given good advice but I'll put in my 2p:

If you're getting one saw, find something in the 50-60cc range. Stihl or Husqvarna doesn't matter, they're both good. I run Stihl saws because they're more available where I live.

I recommend buying a pro saw. They're better built and easier to repair, not to mention more powerful for the size and weight.

Buy your PPE and wear that shit.

If you have the funds, I'd suggest a 2 or 3 saw lineup. I have 45cc, 55cc, and 75cc saws to cover limbing, felling and bucking of all size wood. Plus having a second saw means you can get your first saw out when it gets pinched.

For a 50-60cc saw I'd stick with a 20" (50cm) or shorter bar. The saw will balance much better and be less tiring to use, plus it'll have more power available for cutting. I run an 18" (45cm) bar on my 55cc saw 20"/28" bars on my 75cc saw - Pic related.

Omg what retarded tool would suggest buying a cheap home depo electric chainsaw for cutting thick hardwood? Im an official dealer of Husqvarna, Oleo mac, Echo and other brands. If you want the perdormance/price then go with Oleo Mac 956 with way over 50ccm chaint pitch 325 and thickness 1.5mm or more is a must have. It comes with 16" bar but you can change it as you like. Always look for seperated clutch socket from drive since its cheaper and easier to maintain. I would not recommend Oleo mac GS520 even its more powerful. The weight is uncomfortable and this model have very shitty ignition coil that for some clients we change very often. Stihl is great but the price is much higher to buy and maintain since the spares cost at least 2 times more (but the quality tho). Husqvarna gets shittier every year with all the plastic chain tensioners and glitchy electronics that can be pain in the ass to get fixed. Husqvarna is like apple iphones. Have to release new model every year so they are not that reliable anymore. Oleo mac 956 on the other hand is the same since like 2002 so it has prooved itself as a bang for the buck with price under 600$. Btw im from europe usa have different husqvarnas there and pretty much everything.

>>1073944
Hi . I'm the guy who posted a bunch of times and posted pictures of my gear.
I fucking love oleo mac. Seriously they make great stuff.
I have an oleo mac hedge cutter the thing must be close to 20 years old and it still runs perfect. My strimmer is oleo mac that's easily 10 years old starts and runs perfect. And I love my oleo mac 971 chainsaw. It's old as hell and a heavy bitch but goddam is it an animal to cut. It was sitting up on a shelf not having been used for years until I started cutting firewood and she just runs so damn good.

Can I ask you a question about leaf blowers? Thinking about getting one of the back pack type ones for more power compared to the hand type. Is there really much of a difference in the power between the two?

>>1073985
Long story short. Hand held for dry leafs on concrete and hard surfaces like road. Not going to work on anything wet, wont pull out leaves from grass. SHIT.
Those big one that you put on the back are the only ones who do the job. Ive tested like 15 different types from around 5 brands. There are small ones too that you put on back but they are weak. Look for power. Oleo mac blower is great, husqvarna has more powerful and more expensive models too. Oleo mac bv162 is great it can move rocks in the size of chicken egg. I would look for something around those parametrs that it provides

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>>1070362
Stihl
the only correct answer

>>1073878
>Plus having a second saw means you can get your first saw out when it gets pinched.
ha this reminds me of a time on a forest crew >these guys got one saw stuck in a bent/sprung log,
>went to use another saw to get first saw unstuck,
>got 2nd saw stuck,
>got a 3rd saw stuck trying to free the first two.
>three saws stuck in the same log
>boss shows up
>rolls eyes
>frees them all in one cut with his saw
>boss calls everybody idiots and leaves for the day

So OP what have you decided?

>>1074132
Whew

>>1074132
Should've hired an arborist