Choosing a Good Knife

google is a better tool for finding this out

>>1068804
It's a nice subject to talk about, no?

only one universal #1 rule:
>in a price range that you're okay using it
after that it's up to you

>>1068805
no, look for a general

Carbon steel
Wood handle
Low price
Flat grind
Small guard
Minimal choil/ricasso

Atleast 5mm thick
Pointless Stainless steel
Leather sheath
Maybe a hole in the blade?

>>1068800
>carbon steel
>minimal guard/choil/ricasso
>blade thickness at or under 1/8"
>full grind or scandi grind
>basic drop point, flat belly blade profile
>pinned or riveted grip scales
>no finger grooves, minimal or no butt flare
The basic flat bellied drop-point blade shape is the most well-rounded. it may not be the absolute best at any one thing but it will do everything well enough. I don't batonny chop chop so a thinner blade is better for me since it will cut better, same reason for the full or scandi grind, plus they'll weigh less.

does anyone have a list of best knives per price bracket? That would make it easier for noobs to pick out the right blade for the price.

>>1068886
There is no consensus.

>is it full tang
>is it quality metal
>does it have the edge i want
>does it have a good shape
>does it have a good grip
>how balanced is it

Its pretty easy desu

>>1068800
Depends on what you want the knife for. I say a 4 inch blade is good for skinning game, notching wood, general wood processing, making tinder while out. Get a couple small stones for sharpening. 500 grit, 1000, 2000 will put a sharp enoungh edge for skinning. You'll probably never use 500 unless you beat the hell out of your knife and need to reprofile the blade. 1095 cro van is a good starter steel to learn on, its cheapish, holds a good edge for awhile and is relatively easy to sharpen. When you get good then you can spend more on knives. My top 3 out knife is still 1095.

>5 knife threads
It's not 12 like it was once but this is still out of hand.

>full tang
>1095 steel
>fair price
>no "tactical" looking

>>1068800

>what am I going to use it for
>how much money do I have

There you go.

Use determines nearly all of it: steel for an EDC, fishing or /out/ knife are completely different choices, for example.

>>1069065

Continuing and using the steel + use qualifier:

EDC: a steel that's rust resistant to fresh water, that holds a decent edge, and doesn't take a long time to get back up to sharpness: VG-10 or 420HC are 2 of my favorites, with both being on either end of the price spectrum.

/out/, and I want something that won't chip and that's easy to bring back to sharpness after shaving wood, with some rust resistance: coated 1095 is something I like here.

Fishing, and I look for a flat grind, very good rust resistance, with ease of sharpening not as important as I don't use them much; H1 from Spyderco is generally my choice, but coated 420HC works too.

price

>>1068800

This is like asking what is a good gun.

Well what are you using it for?

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>>1068800
for an outdoor knife?

You can't go wrong with something like pic related, and by that I mean:

~4 inch blade
1/8'' thick
scandi grind
drop point or spear point
handle that is comfortable in a wide variety of grips.

Additionally, you want the handle to not protrude when using the chest pull technique (or it will be hard on your ribs), so avoid skullcrusher pommels (and any exposed pommel, really). Wether you go for thumb scallops, or a flared spindle shape handle is up to you.

Stay away from finger grooves, and handles that are profiled like modern olympic target pistol grips - you want to be able to hold the knife in different ways, for doing different things.

>>1069073
lel

>>1068800
Stainless steel (no maintenance, no patina, no rust - ever), full tang, a bit thicker (stainless breaks, carbon bends, but good thick stainless wont break), g10/micarta handles (easy to clean, synthetic), full flat grind (just my preference though).
If you're from EU, look up some german or spanish knifemakers

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>>1068845
Are you the salty anon from the Cudeman thread? Watch out with all that salt, it might rust your carbon blade, since
>'sTaInLeSs Is pOiNtlEss'

>>1069096
right....which is why no one buys moras

>>1069104
Also, and this is my personal opinion, when buying moras, try to buy stainless Moras because the carbon ones would rust quickly from the salty tears when you realize that most /out/ gives shit advice about knives.

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>>1068800

Comfortable to hold

Good geometry

Light

Durable

>>1068800
>What do you look in when you buy knives, /out/
>What are the good qualities of a knife that make it worth buying?
>Are there any qualities I need to look for?
An average /out/ist choose by weight. The heavier the better as he'll use his freshly acquired knife to put it among the others because they serve no other purpose just to weigh down his shelf so the drought won't knock that over while he posts shit on /out/.

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>>1069124
Kek
And some of us that need knives on certain occasions, usually pick them by looks and price, mainly. Because if steel wasnt invented, we would cut shit with stones and argue about the best kind of stone for the blade.

>>1068800
Can it open food packages and can you baton kindling. After those considerations, pick the lightest. For me, that's Morakniv HD Companion.

>>1068800
The blade material and grind is number 1.

Two is shape and style, this would include length and point style and balance.

Third for me would be handle material.

Later down the line is sheath etc.

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>>1068886
/K/ has a running knife general thread that usually always contains a list of best bang for buck knives.

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any knife that you will not baby

just get something cheap and beat the shit out of it and get another

no reason to buy some $50+ knife, because all you are going to do is treat it like a new car and waste away its potential as you polish it again.

srsly, knives are a huge waste of it... which what makes them so fun and primal

>>1068886
No need for this much autism when it comes to knives
Get something for 10 dollars on amazon and stop wasting your time on it. If you want to go innawoods for more than a day than you will have to spend your money on a hundred other things other than a silly knife. If it's sharp than your knife is good enough

>>1068886
Can only speak for germany. Here it is:
1.less than 10 bucks:
-Mora: need I say more?
-a certain brand of folders called "BASIC" (not sure if thats the brand or the model) which are available for 2€. They are about as good as you'd expect for their price (which is to say, utter crap), but they are good enough for simple things and you don't lse much if some corrupt cop chooses to take away your knife (which is a real problem in germany - they just claim that you verbally consented to having your "weapon" destroyed in return for not beig persecuted and usually get away with pocketing your knife).

2. 10-30 €
-Glock 79 or 81: for rough work (they aren't exactly razors, but indestructible - just look at the youtube torture tests)
-(Bundeswehr surplus) Victorinox soldiers knife: one hand operation folder with all the tools you ever need. It does however have a crappy serrated edge that is impossible to sharpen and needs to be transformed into a straight edge to be usable.
-Opinel:: two-hand folders with great edges, but prone to breaking during rough work (batoning, cutting down trees - all the stuff you'd use a glock for)

3. above 30-100€: knifes in this price range are usually meant for people that do not know the first thing about knives. Those I've tried got dented or chipped within days

4. 100€ +: Never had any knives in that price range. Due to the increased loss if one of them breaks, I'd stay away from anything that isn't military issued.

>>1069098
>stainless breaks, carbon bends
Other way around. stainless (austenite) bends, hardened carbon (martensite) breaks. tempered carbon (martensite / ferrite mix) flexes, then bends a little and finally breaks.

>>1068800
For me it's the following:

-tempered carbon steel: stainless can't keep an edge as long, and I'm not going to resharpen my knifes daily

-Scandi grind for short knives, axe grind for longer ones (with a scandi portion close to the grip on my homemade ones): scandi grind is easy to sharpen, keeps an edge moderately well and cuts well, axe grind will never be razor sharp, but is impossible to damage, making it perfect for rough work (I'm one of those guys that use a large knife instead of an axe)

-pronounced pommel - while it limits the possible grips a bit, it prevents the knife from slipping out of your hand when slick.

-sheath fitting the purpose: long knives go on the pack or horizontal on the belt (scout carry), short knives have to be concealable (so I can also carry them in town) as well as comfortable on the belt or in the pocket

-pronounced guard on longer knives for hacking through thorny vines

-grip made of either oiled (not waxed) wood or soft, slick plastic to avoid blisters

-point suitable for stabbing: while german laws allow carrying a needlefire or flintlock gun, I rarely bother with it due to weight, making the knife my weapon of choice for self defense against humans (For animals, my walking stick usually is enough). might be unnecessary if you live in the states, but here in europe, it is sadly still common for small-time criminals to target campers or hikers.

>>1070269

Pretty much this. Get yourself a Mora and replace it with another Mora when it wears out.

Funny thing is that it'll actually take quite a bit of time or REALLY heavy abuse to break a Mora.

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Fallkniven F1 here

>>1070934
>he thinks the Openlel is a 2 hand knife
I bet you doesn't even boil it in linseed oil

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is this thing any good? thinking about getting it.

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Anyone else think we should combine all knife threads into one KGT?
Anyway check out my pattern welded steel knife, the patterns look cool and all but it's a pain in the ass to sharpen. Has anyone else had this problem? I definitely would not recommend getting one.

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>>1071368

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>>1071368
See how some layers corrode differently

>>1071238
Go for the Ken Onion edition, its amazing. The normal one, not so much.

>>1068800
https://youtu.be/zKnP-XFBZk8?t=30s

>>1071238
No, get a HardwareFreid 1x30 instead.

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>>1068810
Just coming to find a general and there is none.
Was going to ask what /out/ thinks of the kershaw kuro. I'm sure if it's not benchmade or some equally expensive brand, it's shit.

>>1071646
>serrations
>tanto

Meme knife. Avoid.

My favorite Kershaws are the JYD II and the Skyline.
Both US made and less than $50.

>>1071657
Too late actually. Is there something inherently wrong with a tanto tip. From what I could gather it's supposed to leave more metal at the tip. As for some serration, I've found it useful at times. I'd have ruined a knife that was fully smooth. I just use it as an all around cutting/prying/picking tool at work.

>>1071657
>>1071659
Also thanks for the leads. That JYD is interesting. I can't say that I've seen a knife like that before.

>>1071659
The Tanto is for stabbing things you shouldn't stab and the serrations are for cutting through things you shouldn't cut.

If the above sounds like you, you made a good choice with the Kuro.

>>1071659
>cutting/prying/picking tool
Perhaps you should look at a multitool.

>>1071369
>>1071371
Don't let your knife corrode? Carry a small cloth to wipe off your blade
>>1071238
It's good, but I'd recommend bench stones.

>>1070934
>above 30-100€: knifes in this price range are usually meant for people that do not know the first thing about knives
Spotted the poorfag.
>Those I've tried got dented or chipped within days
which ones? what kind of use?
>100€ +: Never had any knives in that price range
That sums up your experience with high quality expensive knives.

>>1071659
Tantos are good for defence, no need for serrations on anything IMO

>>1068800
>scandi grind, easy to sharpen
>no tacti shit, serrations and such
>good quality steel
>OK with -20 C to +90 C
>inb4 wood heated sauna
>nonslip handle, with mittens too
>light weight
>cheap
>stainless (for me, wet/water/coastline/snow/ice)
>prefer EU made to "designed in" junk
>tolerates correctly done batoning
I don't buy kniveS really. I bought a Mora Companion and then another from a sale. I plan to roll with those until they are destroyed or lost.

It is a personal choice of what to prefer and expected uses. Some people collect sneakers, some knives. I don't. To each their own, my list is very boring and considered likely too opinionated by such people.

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>>1071908
>Don't let your knife corrode?
I got it second hand like this, I never would have let it get to this state. The layers don't just corrode at different rates they sharpen and are dulled differently. I haven't been able to get the razor finish I'm after (pic related).

>>1072563
It's made in the mountains of Pakistan out of whatever car springs, ball bearings, dental fillings, and Soviet T-72 parts they can melt down.

What the fuck did you expect?

Personally, I won't buy/carry a knife that I'm not comfortable throwing away/abusing. It is a tool, and meant to be used as such. I prefer something on the thicker side, usually with a tanto blade.

>>1069076
shooting. cutting in case of knife.

The answer to OP is most likely Mora or Hultafors handyman knifes.

I get away with a locking SAK in the Alps.

Don't get a sharpened prybar. 3mm (approx 1/8") thick is more than enough for most knives.

>>1072762
Tools aren't meant to be abused.

>>1070941

>while german laws allow carrying a needlefire or flintlock gun, I rarely bother with it due to weight, making the knife my weapon of choice for self defense against humans (For animals, my walking stick usually is enough). might be unnecessary if you live in the states, but here in europe, it is sadly still common for small-time criminals to target campers or hikers.

You sound like an insufferable faggot.

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>>1072786
Another Germfag here. He is, and i'm ashamed he even dares to post on my chins.

Nobody cares, those laws are rubber laws to have something against sandnignogs, like a reason to check papers or pockets. "He looked as if he had a knife in his pocket. We checked if it's legal and found that he is not". Only used in large citys and mostly against melamin enriched folk.

Nobody cares about your large folder if your skin is fair, m8.

As for crime on the trail, not more than anywhere else.

However, you get fleeced if you go to Venice, Rome or Paris, looking like a fucking tourist. The subhumans pick your pockets in no time.

>>1069116
You just wanted to show off your busse, you lucky bastard

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The idea of a blade like the one of the Opinel N°08 Garden seems quite interesting to me.
In a Knifethread some anon even reshaped a carbon steel N°08 to a drop-point.

So my question is:
What is the advantage of a drop-point blade (4) in comparison to a normal blade (1)?

>>1073179
All Opinel end up drop point eventually.

I have two such knives that have become drop point.

The tip is very fine and gets broken if used inappropriately or the knife is dropped on a hard surface.

The biggest advantage of a drop point is you can put your finger over the point more comfortably.
This helps not puncture innards when processing game.

>>1072583
Surgical steel is Pakistani, you geological racist

>>1071368
Kind of hard to tell, but it looks like someones made it out of 15N20 and a mild steel. Generally in the past when I'd made pattern welded blades they're out of 15N20 + 1075, 1085 or 1095 which has similar hardening and tempering to one another. Plus ideally you don't want it to have any galvanic corrosion issues and the billet to have extremely good forged welding between the layers- if any of them have more than a couple of microns of gap between them they're worthless as its an area for moisture, bacteria and other gunk to accumulate and eat away at it.
(plus at some point they dip it in an acid to get a clearer differentiation between layers!)

With modern steels there's really no need to pattern weld layers together unless they want an attractive appearance and they are very pretty things, but a complete shit to make. The other factor with carbon steels is that they are highly reliant on their finish to resist corrosion, I've found that a very high polish basically negates a lot of the surface corrosion on them and lets a patina form a bit more effectively.
All they really need is just a clean and good drying down after use, if you're storing them for any length of time a thin wipe with mineral oil over them basically halts any corrosion, oh and never leave them in a sheath to store them.

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>>1073179
The point of 4 is able to handle more abuse, more material directly after the point. 3 and 6 are worst, but offer greater ability to dig out splinters and such.

I think my Opinel 7 and 9 are basically a 3. Will reform them into a 1 or 4 eventually.

Pic relared, how i use mine mostly.

>>1072917

I live in the city so I cant use it. I'm not so lucky.

Those are two great comfortable lightweight knives

>>1073179

The tip will survive longer.

It's good if you're autistic like me. Besides a stronger tip allows for carving little holes etc.

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Tops brakimo, cub or bob for general field stuff?

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>>1073179
There's some mechanical advantages to some types of blades when it comes to physical strength, but mostly it comes down to the use of the blade shape.
With the #1 you get an easy to make, relatively strong knife with a large cutting surface, you'll see it on a lot of the cheaper chef's knives and utility knives, there's nothing wrong with that but it lacks one thing when it comes to say #4, 5 & 6 and that is- tip control.

When you have the axis of your handle, line it up and on something like #4 and #6 you have the point either dead centre of that axis or slightly higher/lower and that lets you use the tip with a bit more precision because you are essentially following that axis of the tools handle from the palm of your hand and you can see where the cutting tip is going quite easily. This is important when you're skinning things, doing fine slicing and in the case of #6 probably stabbing something.
That's what those shapes lend themselves to doing well, at the cost of having a little less cutting surface than say the extremes like #2 (Cimeter or Breaker) which has a large cutting surface and #3 (Spanish) which is designed to have a lot of cutting surface, good tip control and somewhat less mechanical strength.

#7 & 8 are pry-bars or chopping blades where its all about strength
#9 & 10 are in that brokenback, sheepsfoot style as they prevent the tip from digging too deep or the tip isn't relative to the blades intended function, you see them on a lot of pen knives and are fairly popular for crude surgical procedures like cutting the balls off sheep and cattle as it won't inadvertently stab the shit out of them

whats a good knife i can carry in my pocket and stab someone with it if i have to

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good steel
scandi grind
solid comfortable grip

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What's your favorite Mora for general use?

>>1074267
>compact enough to carry in pocket
>sharp enough and built to stab someone
Unless you know exactly where on the human body the arteries run closest to the surface of the skin AND actually cut the sweet spot during a fight, you're not going to find a knife to fit those needs

>>1074635
...provided that your attacker intends to harm you, anything under 4 inches will barely make a difference to a hell bent adrenaline filled crackhead. If you really need to carry a knife against junkies or wild animals, get something in a kydex sheath that can scout carry on your belt.

>>1068800
>tfw you have that exact knife

>>1068800
get your pic, TOPS BOB. i have one and if i could only have one knife forever, SHTF, hiking any everything that would be it.

>>1068800
Hard steel
comfortable handle
simple design
shape that's easy to sharpen
strong (preferably full) tang

>>1074637
A 3" knife can disable any attacker.
Killing is another matter.

Severing muscles and tendons will physically stop anyone - PCP'd or not.

Cutting tendons at the crook of the elbow renders the arm inoperable.

Slashing the forearm will make your attacker drop a weapon he may be holding.
The lower part of the forearm controls the bottom three fingers.
These are what you use to hold things securely.
Without that muscle you can't maintain a grip on something.

>>1074954
Yeah I think Ill stick to the thighs and head area. I dont care if I inflict really nasty damage if my life is in danger. An eye here, a finger there...

>>1075303
Whatever feels right for you, in your situation, friend.
You always have more options than you think.

>>1069000
What's the best quality metal for a knife?
If I use it for general camping/utility and field dressing?

>>1076772
There's no real answer to this. I prefer stainless.

>>1076772
It depens on how wet the environment is. The more wet and moist it is and the less you intend to service the blade properly, the more you should consider stainless.

>>1076772
I prefer stainless. Sure its a lot harder to sharpen but its also a lot harder to dull. Also, once you stick it in the sheath, no worries about rust. And the 'cant be sharpened to hair shaving level' is a myth.

>>1076826
I get the most consistens sharpening results with 12c27 over all other (stainless)steels I've tried sharpening. Takes a beatiful edge, doesn't hold it for very long time, but a couple of passes on my strop and it's good to go again.

Thing with nearly all stainless steels is that its a really intensive industrial process to get the most out of the steel, back when I used to fuck around with 440C it needed the hardening temperature done in a very hot kiln at an exact temperature, then it gets 2hrs tempering, then 24 hours in a cryogenic cycle in liquid nitrogen, another 2hrs tempering, another 24hr cryo and possibly a 3rd tempering cycle.
That made a blade which had all the properties of a carbon tool steel, but was basically indestructible in terms of corrosion... and if you wanted 'one' of them it'll be running a bit over $1000 for a bespoke, custom knife just to cover time, materials and attention to detail. Because if you fuck up a single step of it, it turns into a generic piece of shit stainless knife with terrible edge retention and couldn't scavenge that extra 2-3HRC or so off the cryo cycles.

Basically its a cunt of job to make a 'good' stainless knife that wont break, holds an ok edge and its a fucking nightmare to make a 'great' one. Then trying to sell it is a whole other bleeding pain in the arsehole to try and get back some money after spending it on a precision kiln + everything else.

Most industrial knife makers skip a few steps, they do a tempering, a handful might get a cryo cycle (and still cost people 400+), most just do a hardening and tempering then call it a day. That's sort of why stainless has copped a bad name, its a fantastic material (for kitchen knives especially), but suffered from bad heat treatments nearly all of its existence as people saved some bucks in the process because people didn't want to spend what it costs to make one.

>>1076772
if your environment involves salt water I highly recommend stainless. if its just normal water its a toss up, my carbon knives rust from swimming with them but it easily wipes off / leaves a protective patina behind. If you are dealing with a bone dry environment might as well go carbon.

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>>1074274
>dat esee 6 doe

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>>1076852
>>1076938
Yep. Thats why I buy from companies that have good reputation here in the EU, or from smaller, ambitious knife manufacturers that still dont have high prices for the work the invest.

>>1077088
In terms of money, you will get a great carbon steel blade for much less than a great stainless steel one.
Over the years I've put down test bed knives in various types, then use them in the kitchen, beat and mistreat them looking for failure, corrosion, patina formation and so on. Its really hard to fully "kill" a good carbon steel knife and they don't turn into dust or crumble on contact with water. Even if you miss a spot or something for a day it'll just clean off with a scotchbrite pad.
Long term storage though- inside knives you want to cover in something like a mineral oil and it'll never rust, outside blades/axes, just wipe them down with a cheap oil like 3-in-1 and its highly unlikely they'd rust even with any ambient humidity or direct splashes.

As I mentioned earlier, finish has a lot to do when it comes to resisting corrosion- if a blade has a mirror/high gloss finish with no open scratches for water, then there's nowhere for it to sit and do its business past the surface patina. The other thing you can look at is bluing, which is an extra step that tends to cost a fair bit to do properly, or even an epoxy-paint product over the top of bare steel which is a lot cheaper. Course it looks like a busted arsehole when it gets scratched up.
Just dont store them in a sheath ever!

>>1077101
>In terms of money, you will get a great carbon steel blade for much less than a great stainless steel one.
No I wont, because Im not from the USA. In the EU, sadly, there's a high import tax on packets above 45€ and theres only a few good carbon steel knifemakers (Varms from Poland is the only one I remember off the top of my head) and a lot more stainless steel knifemakers. Sheffield, Albaceta, Solingen, all these cities have strong stainless knifemaking traditions. So its really not about not wanting one, its just paying a lot more for import when I can get a great stainless blade for +20€ more.

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is douk douk any good?

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>>1077120
Import tax is EU wide starting at 150, you ignora t cunt. VAT depends on the state you are in.

Get the Opinel Carbon 9 or 8 for 7 Euros if you want a rusting blade in a locked folder format, you fucking poorfag. Or get the Hultafors HVGK, which is carbon as well, but not a folder, you dirty bottomfeeder.

Excuse my tourrette, you stinking drypussy.

>>1077128
>He actually believes import tax is EU wide
>he doesnt know shit about import tax in the EU
why are you lying on an anonymous imageboard, anon? Im not shilling proEU products to anyone, Im simply saying that the majority of knives popular in the USA might be too big of a hassle to import in the EU. Please go polish your springsteel knife and leave the real talk to real, experienced men.

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Is this worth it's price?
I found it at @40 euros
Muela COL-9.OL

>>1077136
I need a good knife for a mountain trip @ a week long, i have a collection of knives already but most are not amazing /out/ tools and i'd like a reliable one

>>1077136
Soft steel, but should do fine. You can better stuff more for your money though. It's more of a hunting knife than a bushcrafting knife (don't know if that's matters to you). For 42 euros you can get a Mora bushcraft black. For 50 you can get a Enzo necker 70. I've got the Enzo Necker. It's a small knife, sure, but it's very capable for it's size and weight.

>>1077142
I'm from EU, there is a low chance i'll actually need to gut fish or animals, most probably i'll use it for cutting small branches, rope and such. For bigger stuff i have a machette and an axe

>>1077153
If you like folders, Victorinox SAK are some of the better affordable stainless choices. Although I had to remove the secondary bevel on mine to have it razor sharp. Still, 20€ aint much.

>>1077153
Any Mora, or the Enzo I mentioned before, should do all of that fine without weighing you down.

File: cold steel pocket bushman.jpg (75KB, 960x960px) Image search: [Google]

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For a folding knife I can highly recommend the Cold Steel Pocket Bushman. It's long, but the handle is only 1,5cm at the thickest part so you can edc it surprisingly well. The steel gets sharp enough for normal tasks and holds its edge quite well while being easy to sharpen. I use it for working around the house and on the farm as well as in normal everyday life.

>>1068800
Is it made in Sweden? Then go ahead and buy it

>>1068800
You want something with a 1/4 inch thick blade, full tang. No compromise.

>>1077136
>>1077153
It's a hunting (skinning) knife.
Can do lots of other things including what you want but that's what the grind and shape is best suited for.
If you like it, buy it.