another axe thread

Obviously you want a Gransfors replica viking axe.

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In no ticular order: Fiskars, Estwing, Vaughan. Keep your price point rational.

silky ono

axes are shit, hatchets and cleavers are better

or what I really mean
you dont NEED an axe
you shouldnt be felling live trees, in which case, a hatchet or cleaver is pleeenty

Go for something in the 2 1/2lb 19" handle range.

>>1047466
cleaver?
dont you mean machete?
machete is probably the lightest thing you can find thats the best for what youll be using it for

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>>1047969
No, I definitely mean a cleaver.

Whether they admit it or not, this is a cleaver.

>>1047464
Actually the Estwing 12 or 14inch hand axe is the best of the lot. They can be had for under $40.

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>>1047969
>cleaver?
>dont you mean machete?
Why can't it be both?

>>1047464
>non wood handle
Not even once

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OP here

Condor axes any good?
I like the design of pic related,

>>1048160
Never tried them, but they just don't look right to me. None of the Condor line does infact.

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Anyone here got a prandi axe?
Really thinking about it, really like the OX head design

>>1048022
This is such a meme it's embarassing. You're like a fucking parrot.

>>1049063
There's a reason the large majority of axes, hammers and sledges have wooden handles, because even if you put rubber or leather around it, you'll feel a lot of vibrations coming through the handle, especially compared to a thin wooden handle.

>>1048160
Looks like a shit edge that will probably need over an hour of work on it, the handle is thick and has no good palm swell and the leather caller makes it impossible to comfortably choke up on the axe for finer tasks (implying you can do any sort of fine task with THAT monstrosity of an edge).

stupid fucking thin wooden handle memesters faggots

>>1049063
Cope harder.

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Wish me luck boys, also OP youre a faggit.

>>1049343
>tfw generations of lumberjacks always had thin handles on their axes
>tfw a thinner handle genuinely transfers less vibrations than a thick one
>tfw never used an axe for a few hours on end to feel the difference
>tfw you're a retarded edgelord

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>>1048160
Dont buy a new axe, just look in pawn shops for one with decent geometry. Axe companys are complete jews nowadays.

>>1049479
>implying axes even back then weren't at least a little pricey.
Don't be a cheapass, if you want a good tool, it makes sense it won't cost 20$.

>>1049481
Do you how used goods work? Of course new axes were pricey back then, the only reason pawn shop axes are such good deals is because the bitch wife hocks of her husbands heirloom gransfors and pawn shops are too lazy to scrub away the sap to find out what it is.

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>>1049343
>>1049063

I swing a hammer every day all day and my wooden handled framer puts significantly less stress on my elbow than my one piece steel framer of the same weight. It's not a meme, you just don't have any relevant experience to draw an accurate conclusion. Wood is strong, light, and reduces vibrations better than rubber overmolded handles. Obviously one piece forged tools are more durable by default, but that really doesn't matter if you know what you are doing...I have never had to replace the wooden handle on my hammer since I bought it over 4 years ago, then again I have great coordination and practice and have never damaged the handle by overstriking. Same things apply to axes and hatchets..

lll

>>1049493
Stelleto?

>>1049499
I just use an estwing california framer, I had always used 1 piece steel hammers but wanted to try something wooden but didn't want to drop 200 bucks on a stiletto and not like it. It's a little on the heavy side compared to a stiletto, but I liked it alot and never really felt the urge to upgrade.

>>1049512
Back when I was a fencer I used to use my mallet to drive staples when my elbow started hurting towards the end of the day. I love the estwings but I know how you feel about the tenis elbow. Just lucky im a plasterer now and dont have to put up with destroying my body.

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>>1049476
Well its definitely better. Can any anons help out with making a sheath? I have some leather from a saddle and some inner tube for against the blade.

>>1049478
>>1049493
none of you knows what he is doing or has used an axe extensively enough to teach me shit. in fact nobody in decades has and stop being massive faggots

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>>1047398
http://a.co/8Weq4sf
i just got this because i liked the style - the head is a bit smaller than what i thought but its still nice

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>not having an axe that you can pull out nails with

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>>1050065
>Not just having a rigging axe, or better yet a hammer.

>>1050065
>>1050073
>tfw pulling out a nail that isn't set all the way by striking it with the cutting edge.

>>1050026
Is there be a worse combination of traits than an autistic narcissist with a low IQ?

>>1050198
African American?

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>>1049777
looks good, don't know anything about making a sheath...I bought one like this, you could probably make one fairly easy if you had the right tools already

>>1050388
Ive looked it up, its pretty straight forward, I just need to find a bigger piece of leather, a metal clip (because fuck buttons) and some brass rivets.

Should be able to find that shit before the thread closes.

>>1049777
i used to have that blankey. kmart.

>>1050396
Please dont tell people how I live.

>>1050405
it's a good blankey friend. could use a wash...

>>1047398
This is so encouraging to see. /out/ is evolving.

I've been shit talking batoning for years and I usually get a lot of push back from the youtube university grads on /out/, so this thread is a really nice thing to see.

>>1049130
That's a splitting axe, not a felling axe, dumbass. You want a moderately dull, convex edge on a splitting axe because you're trying to push the end grain apart rather than cut into it.

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>>1050026

>>1050199

looks like /b/ or /pol/ showed to the party...

>>1048360
I use a condor duku machete almost daily for work and it holds the edge for ever, handle feels good, and the sheath is nice. I will vouch for the machetes at least.

>>1050578
Wow guy you sure told him.

PERSONALLY, I have the Riflemans Hawk from Cold Steel. Sure it came with a shitty edge but with some love you can get a razor sharp edge on it. and for ~$30 whats not to love?

>>1050576
What the fuck are you talking about? The "cloudburst" ax is basically Condors (shitty) rip off of all the Swedish axes, there's no fucking way it's a splitting ax.

>>1051411
He's a dummy and probably thought the phantom bevels were for splitting.

Fucking stupid dummies making stupid posts.
Why don't we have a gas chamber yet?

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>>1051411
You're right. I admit it. I saw the relief type marks and confused it for one of these.

>>1051430
It's true. I made that mistake. I can admit it.

>>1051436
>mention a gas chamber and he confesses not one minute later.
Wow I guess capital punishment is a deterrent after all.

>>1051444
Ya, I searched up that pic, downloaded it, re uploaded it, and typed my "confession" in under a minute. That sounds plausible.

The other slim possibility is that I was replying to the other guy and just tacked you on at the last minute.

>>1047398

So what's a good general inexpensive wooden handle axe? For a year it was the marbles camp axe, but that got outsourced right when it got popular and turned to shit, at least according to the reviews.

Basically the axe equivalent of a Mora. Basic and simple and sturdy and great value for the money.

>>1052034
Inexpensive wood handle? Buy an old head from a flea market and rehang it yourself, that's the best ratio of quality to cost you'll find.

As for buying a ready to go axe? If you hadn't specified wood handle, the most 'Mora' of axes that I can think of might be a Fiskars. Some love them, some hate them. I bought their little x7 hatchet on sale and it does what is supposed to and does it pretty well at a lower cost.

For wood handle, the cheapest I can think of are Cold Steel, the Trailboss tends to hang around $25 on Amazon. From reviews, you may or may not get a dud, but people who get a good one seem to find it works well enough. There's also tomahawks from them if you're into that.

Aside from cold steel, you're looking at probably a minimum of about $50 for a wood axe. You can consider Husqvarna, they seem to buy unfinished heads from other swedish axe makers and put a quick edge on them. There's also Condor, from what I've seen, their axe grinds tend to be a bit on the thicker side, and their fit and finish tends to be minorly flawed, but still decent (I'm basing this on their Greenland pattern axe that I have). Comes with a damn good leather sheathe though.

Could also look at Snow and Neily, and Council Tool. Last I heard, at least some of their axes are made in the USA and are of decent quality, but I don't know much about them beyond that.

Beyond that, you're pretty much in the price range of a Hultafors, Wetterlings or Gransfors Bruks all of which are well liked.

>>1052167

Cool thanks for the advice.

>>1052167
S&N are made in China since a few years ago.

TrailBoss is the cheapest good axe for the money.
It will need some edge work like 99% of axes.

Council Tools has a boy's axe for around $35.

>>1052239
Damn shame about S&N. I had thought I read that they were now owned by some Amish and produced here. It seemed promising since I figure the Amish would know how to make a good tool. I guess we can't have nice things though.

>>1049499
>>1049512
i have the 16 oz wood axe handle from stiletto i think $140,,, its the best hammer ive used, better than the full titanium too. i still use my estwing for demo, beating pry bars, chipping concrete

>>1052239
>>1052251
Did a quick search, it sounds like I read correctly with the Amish thing.

https://www.lehmans.com/blog/snow-and-nealley

A couple other sites agree that some Amish family has brought the manufacturing back from China in the past couple years. It sounds like their goal was to transition back to being 100% USA made.

>>1052251
>>1052265
I did not know this.
I remember them switching the production of heads to China, but still finishing them in the US.

It's good news at least.

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>>1047398
Can someone tell me the procedure for making an axe handle? I cut down this citrus tree yesterday because it was hanging on by a thread at the base, I cut it up into pieces and carved it up today. Should I/should I have left this out to dry before finishing the head?

PS. Can someone tell me the name of this type of axe head? (bigger picture coming in reply)

PPS. No bully

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>>1052426

>>1052426
>>1052429

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22tBYD-HMtA
I think pretty much anyone who wants to service axes will hear of this guy. That video doesn't cover actually shaping the handle, just attaching it. But shaping it is largely up to your preference. There's also other videos on youtube, Wranglerstar for example probably has a video on rehanging an axe.

First of all, for striking tool handles it's usually preferred to use Hickory or Ash, a wood that will handle shock well. I know nothing about your citrus wood, but it's up to you whether you want to use that or not.

Secondly, yes, you want the wood to be as dry as possible before you fit the head on. If it's not dry when it's first attached, it may dry out and shrink afterwords, causing the head to come loose and endanger someone.

That head looks like what's commonly referred to as a Hudson bay pattern I think. You may want to soak it overnight in white vinegar and scrub it with some steel wool or a wire brush to get any rust and grime off.

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>>1052426
>>1052429

If you want a more specific video on actually carving out the handle, there's this guy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-dEJdyXj34

You also want the grain orientation to run as straight from front to back of the axe as possible, pic related.

>>1052440
I decided to use citrus because an old cowboy told me citrus and mango were good axe handles, but I am not entirely sure of it. What would be the best way to dry the axe? It is completely wet, as I cut it down yesterday, so should I leave it for a month or two?

>>1052444
I may have made a mistake in leaving the hilt on, because it was formed by two branches that were growing that I sawed off, and I cant exactly tell the grain.

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>>1052454
forgot picture

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>>1052455
from the top

>>1052454
I'm by no means an expert in wood, internet searches will have better information on the reliability of citrus as a striking tool handle.

If you pulled the wood from around a joint, the grain may not be uniform, you might try visualizing the grain pattern within the wood to figure out what you're working with. A site like http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/1_Wood_Grain/1_Wood_Grain.htm would probably be more helpful to you than I could.

As for drying, internet searching will be more thorough, but generally unless you have a specialized kiln, you're looking at air drying. You're gonna wanna store it in a dry place, regular airflow would help carry moisture away from the wood. I can't give you an idea of time to dry, it varies based on wood type, size and shape. Could be weeks, could be months.

>>1052454
>>1052465

Forgot to add, you could always make the handle with what you've got, if it's not ideal, it may break sooner rather than later (or maybe never at all), but you'll gain experience, and if you enjoy projects, have fun. Just keep an eye out for fracturing down the road.

>>1052466
I think I will weigh the wood out tomorrow and leave it beside the stove for a few weeks, and then try and put the head on it after cleaning it up and fixing the dent. Thank you very much for your time and help, I really appreciate it.

>>1052429
That looks like a Mediterranean style head to me.
Probably Spanish, made for export to build wall countries.

Good news because it uses a tapering tomahawk or pickaxe style handle.
You don't need a wedge and slack from drying will be taken up by the handle itself.
Leave the handle outside in the shade to dry for a week before shaping it.

Citrus wood is fine.

>>1052034
I bought a Husqvarna hatchet and I really love that thing. I don't know if they're all made by Gransfors Bruks, but mine was... at half the price of a "real" GB.

Some people complain about the finish but I find it grippy. Some people complain about the initial sharpness but I say if you don't know how to sharpen an axe you shouldn't take it out again until you've got it figured out.

>>1052456
I can't make out the grain over all those cut marks. Can you draw it on or something?

>>1052500
>Probably Spanish, made for export to build wall countries.

Exactly right.

>Good news because it uses a tapering tomahawk or pickaxe style handle.

Apparently the people here mount the head by putting it on from the bottom up, but I really dont think that would be a very effective way of mounting it.

>Citrus wood is fine.

Thanks for clarifying.

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>>1052429
>>1052653
enough with american axes
post yugopotamian axes

>>1052653
>Apparently the people here mount the head by putting it on from the bottom up
That's the correct way.

Slide the head up from the bottom of the handle, then hold the axe upside down and tap the bottom of the handle with a hammer.

It's a very secure design because the head gets tighter on the handle with each swing.

>>1052813
>That's the correct way
No it's not, it's A way, no such thing as a correct way to mount a piece of steel to a piece of wood, if you think there is, you're retarded.

>>1052813
Hi there, new to the conversation.
Are you talking about tomahawks or are you a complete retard who doesnt know how to make a handle?

>>1053367
No, it's going to be made to mount a certain way. That's based on design, obviously. So for any particular axe head there is going to be a correct way and incorrect way. You'd have to be a retard not to understand this.

>>1053369
Is this /out/ or /cunt/ because the guy was asking a reasonable question. Everyone starts somewhere, asshole.

>>1053376
I was talking about axes in general since there's a lot of expert lumberjacks on the internet and especially on /out/ that will either say that the "American" way with wedging it is the correct method and the tomahawk style is retarded and vice versa, those are the people i consider retarded. As far as design for a particular ax goes, some axes are meant to be hung from the top and wedged but they will accept a tomahawk style handle and even the tomahawk style axes you can hang like a regular axe it's just more difficult.

>>1053570
Well then you should have said that.

>>1053570
>even the tomahawk style axes you can hang like a regular axe

How?

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Anyone here uses Ochsenkopf axes? My grandad and dad swear by them and they haven't used anything else in their company for as long as I remember. I noticed they have hatchets too (pic related) and I think I might get one, I can get them cheaper via my dad. And yes, I am aware they are very yellow.

>>1052455
>>1052456
can't make out anything from the top, but the bottom is shit. You want straight and parallel with the blade, you have very curved, center of the tree and perpendicular to the blade.

>>1053597
Then steal their axe heads, its how Ive gotten all my axes.
>Dads hatchet
>My bosses felling axe
>My bosses maul

Also help to quite from a job with accomodation then fuck off to the other side of the country with a plane, 3 pairs of wire strainers, 2 axes, 1 post rammer, 1 EZ pull, 1 handwinch, fencing spade and a post rammer.

And I still havent been arrested to this day. 10 years later.

>>1053597

I've never used one.

They're the oldest name in Gemany. The second being Helko-Werk.

The Iltis brand has been around a long time.

Their models are all of typical German pattern, which is the pattern you most often see in hardware stores. That's why they look kind of "cheap" at first glance.

But if you study the pictures, you can see the cheeks are hollow and the edges are thin, even on the "Universal" models. How they are supposed to be.
The more traditional Iltis models made for felling are even thinner.

They look good to me. Better grind than the Scandinavian ones at least.

>>1053585
With a lot of wasted time wedging it just right, in my experience you need to leave a lot more wood on top, use a thick wooden wedge, cross wedge it and a circular step wedge.

>>1053597
They seem to be high quality from what i've heard, only thing from them i have experience with is their plastic felling wedges which, to me, are the best quality felling wedges.

>>1053842
They don't really use hatchets, mostly larger tools like splitting mauls, tongs, hooks and so on.
>>1053940
Great, thanks for the info!
>>1054001
Yeah, my dad and grandad use them too and they are pretty amazing.

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Just got one of these. The 4lb one.
Can't wait to destroy some olives with it.

I also had my eye on a tiny 1 1/4lb hatchet, but the two models they had in stock were mounted a bit off center. I'll wait till they get more in stock.
The handle for the hatchet is very thin compared to most factory axes. About 1/3 the the width of a Husqvarna.
Felt really nice.

>>1054979
Looks like a pretty decent ax.
How much did it cost?

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OP here, i think i found the axe to get,
it's from a company called Prandi

1000 gram German style axe,
anyone ever handle these before?
they go on ebay for under $100


this feels like a steal but there's gotta be a catch?

>>1055020
>Italian made German pattern
If you want a German style ax, get a German made one, pay a little extra for an Ochsenkopf/oxhead or a Helko.

>>1055020
You are paying $100 for something that you can get for $5. You dont work in foresty and you have enough free time to be on 4chan. Stop being lazy and go find an axe head in a pawn shop.

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Husqvarna hatchet seems to be going for less than 20$ on Amazon at the moment, might be worth it even if it's a slightly lackluster product in terms of fit and finish.

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Anyone know if there's a way to remove the Rotband system on the their axes? I guess you could use a plasma torch and carefully cut off the shoulder protection, i'm more worried about the top plate since you can't really oil the wood with that on there, any idea if removing it would remove the wedge in the ax?
>inb4 get a German pattern at a pawn store
No can do, haven't found any ax of that style in any pawn shop or even online.

>>1055038
Both those brands are less expensive than Prandi.

>>1055105

literally where are you getting your numbers

i cant find OX or a helko under $120

ive found prandis for under $100
the prandi i put up is 70-90 based on if you get varnish or linseed oiled,

>>1055015
I paid $19, but that was a "special" price.

I think they normaly cost $40-50.

Not sure these models are selled in the US. There isn't a a market for them.
They are "work" patterns intended for farm workers.

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>>1055106
Ochsenkopf site has prices.
1000g German/Europa/Rheinland:
€64 for Universal model
€71 for Iltis model

holy shit thanks anon
is that German amazon or something?

>>1055106
But the Ox have over 200 years of tradition and skill and Helko have close to 200 (173 years) and prandi have what, 90 years? It's definitely worth to pay a little extra for the quality and tradition, i'm pretty sure the Germans know how to make their pattern axes better than Italians.

>>1055115
I was looking at the same model except with the Rotband Plus system and it costs 91€ in Slovenia.

>>1055186
It's a regional pattern from Rheinland (where both Ochs and Helko is from), not a German "national" one.
I cannot say when it has been standardized.

It's also the defacto "European" pattern.
Go to any hardware store and you will find one of the type.
Most not so good, but still, they are clearly "German" pattern.

What separates from most Nordic/American patterns is the more drastic curve of the edge, and the flared wings.
I don't think it's that difficult or obscure of a pattern to get right.

Buying one from a German maker is definitely more authentic, but not necessarily the better made one.

Speaking honestly here, I am a fan of the pattern when it's a 1 kg or heavier head, on a short 10-14" handle.
The curved edge allows for a lot of fine control when woodcarving.

Otherwise, on bigger axes for cutting, I prefer flatter edges with no wing at the top.
Mostly because the wing likes to bite into the ground when bucking logs.

>>1055040
I have one and I love it.

Grain orientation is a zionist conspiracy

>>1055607
No, but the type of wood is.

Any hardwood works. I've hafted hammers from pallet wood and they held up fine.

>>1055040
The lower price won't fix it's shortcomings.

>>1055047
Just buy the one without Rotband

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What do you guys think of carpenter's hatchets for camping/domestic use?

They're cheap and available at any hardware store.
I know they're intended for framing carpenters, not the woodworking kind.
But I don't see much use for an axe in construction.
What are they used for, primarily?

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>>1055736
Thats a rigging axe, used for framing. Theyre heavy and have shit geometry for bushcrafting. Go find an axe head at a garage sale or pawn shop that has similar geometry to this and is small enough for a hatchet (boys axes are retarded for bushcrafting unless you are felling, hatchet is all you need).
Keep an eye out for anything with an embosed logo.

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>>1055759
Those are felling geometries. Pretty shitty for splitting. The best hatched I've used for splitting is the Husqvarna. I carry that if I have the room, otherwise I do the following.

I carry a folding saw, pic related, for making logs. I'll carve splitting wedges in the field or maybe I'll bring a couple with me. I lay the logs down with one end on top of another log. Then split length wise or use the ray mears method. Other than carving the wedges I don't need to involve my knife at all.

>>1055896
Youre a faggit, but only slighty less of a faggit then your batoning counterparts.

>>1055904
That's probably the most concise thought you can come up with.

>>1055896
Splitting isnt a priority for bushcrafting. Only faggits who barely out bother to proccess wood instead of collecting a fuck ton of sticks.

>>1055939
I do a lot of camping in the Whitecourt AB region, in the Mcleod valley. That area gets a lot of rain, so deadfall is sometimes pretty moist. So extracting heart wood, which is dryer in case you didn't know, is sometimes the best way to get a fire going...but I'm sure you knew that....

>>1055943
Faggit, I live in a fucking rain forest. Shits not worth the effort if you do any fucking work throughout the day.

>>1055896
Those aren't felling geometries. Felling geometry would be thinner.

>>1055943
What the anti-splitting brigade doesn't realize is that even if you manage to start a fire, feeding it with moist wood will quickly turn it into a signal fire due to the smoke.

>>1047398
as a guy who never used an axe or cut down anything when camping, and is not american. Pls redpill me on battoning

>>1056046
Battoning is a good way to split wood IF:
- you have a durable, full-tang knife
- the wood you're splitting is less than half the length of the knife
- the wood you're splitting has a consistently straight grain (few knots, definitely not end wood)
- the wood is too small for an axe or saw but still needs to be broken down further to make kindling

as a bonus: - if it's been raining so much that heart wood of a proper branch or log will be dry, but twigs are very wet

It's a more specific thing than a lot of the cult would have you believe, but there is an appropriate time and place for it

>>1056046
Batoning is a reliable method of attracting autists who can only comprehend absolutes.

>>1055759
I actually got a chance to handle one after making that post.

It is completely blunt with wide shoulders like a splitting maul or cold chisel and doesn't look like it's ever supposed to have an edge.

It feels more like a hammer with the axe being an afterthought.
Even the handle is hammer like.

The Estwing and Vaughan ones had longer 18" or so handles than some other models.

Maybe the axe part is for splitting something rather than hewing?

I think with a heavy convex grind it'd make a pretty decent multitool for a farmer/homesteader's belt.

Might even be able to cut soft wire in a pinch.

>>1055944
My heart goes out to all the jungle browns that have to live in 3rd world shitholes.

>>1055948

Like you would know.

A splitting tools doesn't wait until the haft to aggressively start pushing the wood apart.

I can only speak for myself and I'm not "anti-splitting". I'm "anti-using-the-wrong-tool-for-the-job". That's what I have to say, but you go ahead and hear whatever fits your narrative.

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>>1056071
-Nope, if you're doing it right you won't break a $20 mora companion.
-Nope. If you're packing a 10" cutting edge doesn't mean you should baton 5" logs. Here's the actual method: If your work piece is so thick that you have to hit the handle side of your knife or if your knife gets stuck so hard you can't pull it free, your work piece is too big. You shouldn't be batoning anything bigger than 2-2.5" around.
-Nope. Straight grain yes, but no knots. Knots are how people fuck their knives. Don't listen to anyone that tells you it's ok to baton through knots. They don't know what the fuck they're talking about. Pic related.

Here's a Kbar. You'll notice the work piece is about half of the length of the blade and there are "few" knots. Don't believe any fool that tries to tell you this is a good idea.

-There is very little wood above finger size that can't be processed with an axe or a hatchet. I might even agree with you, but your "guidelines" for batoning already prove you're a tool.

>>1056421
My post wasn't about battening and neither was yours.

Don't move the goal posts now.

>>1056428
Wrist thick seems to be a good "rule".

Leaning your weight on the handle while you beat on the tip is a good way to break any knife.

Splitting the wood length wise instead of standing it up works better I've found. Easier to get a wedge in too.

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Maybe someone will find this useful;

Amazon UK has 1.4lb Spear&Jackson Hatchets for £3.

3 axes for less than a tenner.
Pretty good deal, even if they turn out to be china fucking shit.

Can't have too many axes.

There's 4.5lb axes for £8 too.

>>1056428
In all fairness, isn't the Companion MG generally considered durable and full-tang?

>>1056496
Durable yes, full no

>>1056496
It's 1/2 tang.
The original style barrel handled Moras are full tang.

>>1055262
I much prefer a curved bit, since with a flat bit like the ones on the Swedish carpentry axes since it doesn't bite nearly as deep. The Rheinland pattern is meant for chopping hard woods, primarily beech. I tend to file the tip on the top of the bit because it always hits a rock when bucking and i don't put as much emphasis on maintaining it.

>>1055663
I know, but you can get it, maybe regrind it a bit and resell it to some sucker for almost the original price. Or the head looks heavy enough that you can easily put it on a 50cm handle or even a 60 probably.

>>1055666
No can do, Devil. The only store here that sells them only sells this one Rheinland pattern and it comes with Rotband.

>>1056046
It's fine to an extent, i use the method to split straight grain, thin branches (less than 7cm diameter) to make kindling.

>>1056483
There's no way an ax that costs less than 4€ is gonna have a hickory handle, just the handle would cost more than the entire hatchet would it be actual hickory, shit's an expensive ass wood.

>>1056733
It's on sale.
They go for £18 at B&Q and more in other places.

>>1056720
I actually considered buying one and thinning out the handle - until I got a look at the eye.
It's fucking huge.

Hatchets should have thin handles with gentle curves.
This head was made for a 19" handle.

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Does anybody here have experiencie with the cold steel trail boss?
It seems to be a very nice axe, at a good price.

>>1056758
That's why i said it'd be good for mounting on a longer handle.

>>1056767
Yep.
It'd make a nice "cheap" alternative to the meme axes from Wetterlings and Gransfors.

>>1055047
I think the handle with or without the band is the same. It's only rubber.
So if you remove it there shouldn't be a problem.

If you take out the top plate and it removes the wedge, just put in a normal wedge.

>>1056765
Wranglestar did a review on it and he seemed impressed. Edge needs some slight sharpening out of the box, but you need to remove the varnish with a file first so it won't clog up your stone. Try to find one in a retail store so you can look at the grain of the handle.

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>>1049493
What kind of LARPing faggot are you that you do framing all day every day and don't use a framing nailer?

>>1056825
Wranglerstar was being payed by cold steel you faggit.

When do you ever actually need an axe while backpacking? Just burn the end of the log and keep moving it.

>>1056881
This board isn't just for backpacking.

>>1056464
My use of the word "haft" must have gone right over your head.

>>1056496
You either don't know:
-What full tang means
-Which knife we're talking about
-How the Mora Companion is made

>>1056886
>i am looking for a pack axe

That's from the OP

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>>1056825
Wranglerstar has not made an honest review since he went completely money worshipping hipster some years ago and even before that his reviews were more about things being 'nice and smooth' or 'nice and thick' or 'now that feels good in hand' rather than actual reviews.

He even changed his strong opinion about Fiskars axes for no apparent reason and turned 'hateful fiskars' into a joke. Either he still hates fiskars axes or he never did. What is clear is that he made some real damage for Fiskars' axe sales.

>>1056891
2.5/10

>>1047398

>Former MUH BATONNY knife fag here, I have realized my sins

I kind of know that feel, I brought a full size axe on a canoe trip and between a friend with a break-down saw and my axe we processed a couple dead trees into log quarters in like an hour

Whoever uses the campsite next isn't going to have to find more firewood

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hey guys

im wondering if i were to just use an Axe to make a small house from thick branches/limbs
what would i need? a 23 inch axe or can i get away with a hatchet? i want to learn to build structures by mainly Axe

>>1056825
>>1056874
>>1056907
>curly raven black hair
>blue eyes
>round face


Rev up the gas chamber.
Celts were a mistake.

>>1056919
>make a small house from thick branches/limbs

I don't understand.
Is this like a log home or some timber framed mud/stick construction?

>>1056925
log home

>>1056928
Felling axe for cutting.
Hewing/broad axe for shaping logs into timber.
Carpenter's axe for finer work and fitting.

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>>1056928
>>1056934
If you want to do it with one axe, I'd suggest a heavy Kent pattern (also known as shipbuilders axe) with a straight-ish handle around 20".

>>1056934
>>1056943
thank you for the answers lads

>>1056891
Pack ax, as in an ax that can be put in a backpack and carried around in said backpack without issue. Everyone knows you wouldn't carry an ax for a backpacking or hiking trip, but some people just go to an are and set up camp or they already have a camp set up there and they bring an ax for processing firewood.

>>1056907
He genuinely only seems to care how something feels in the hand right out of the box rather than over time. I remember him shitting on Link brand handles which are (or at least were) a well reputed brand most liked and he shit on them because the handle was too thin saying "look how they cheaped out on the wood" and going to a ridiculously thick hardware store handle.

>>1056971
Explain a pack mule then. Which backpack does a mule fit in, huh?

>>1056980
a special type called your mom

>>1056999
Where can I find your mom? At the whoredware store?

why do people bother making hudson bay axes anymore? they seem obsolete as a design

>>1057016
i would like to know if im missing something or if its just for the look of it?

>>1057016
>>1057020
So American companies can compete with the Swedish "Forest" axes that are of similar size and purpose.

>>1057022
so the companies are just riding on the design because
>muh old american design tried and true

even though the metal that comes into contact with the wood is lesser than most?

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>>1057025
It's a nice pattern in a useful size.
Nothing wrong with it.

A lot like some Spanish and Italian axes, except with an American style wedge handle.
Image related. You can buy this exact model at the supermarket for €23.


Even Wetterlings make one.

>even though the metal that comes into contact with the wood is lesser than most?

That's not true.
And it wouldn't matter if if it were.
All axes are patterns are slightly different because each one evolved with a distinct purpose and to suit it's environment.

>>1057050
what are the strong points of the pattern?

>>1057095
It's strength is it's descended from a laborer's axe, and unlike a specialist axe it is a good all rounder.

Small and light enough to carry on your back for a whole trip and use one handed like a hatchet, but big enough to swing two handed, and fell/limb/buck/split decent sized wood like a real axe.

I think the slightly longer handle than the Scandinavian Forest Axes hits the two handed sweet spot better.

I own the 20" Wetterlings whatever it's called, and while the handle can be used two handed, it has to be done line a sword.
You can't really slide your right hand down like you're supposed to.

>>1056980
Are you being purposefully dense? Pack mule implies it carries your shit around.

>>1057338
You're a fucking retard, dude.

>>1057338

Why would you need someone to carry your shit?

You're in the woods. Just bury it.

>>1056919
Is the goal learning or building? Because there will be a lot of learning involved.

Abd plenty of suffering until you get really proficient. Then it gets fun.

I suggest you don't worry about axes right now.
Use the axe you have and figure out it's limitations. Then procure more axes accordingly.

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Anyone read this? Is it any good?

>>1057944
I got some Norwegian wood for ya!

>>1057848
Goal is kinda both, ive used axes before,

But i dont really own a quality one, or really any for that matter,
I was thinking of saving up for a GFB scandi forest axe

>>1058211
If you're learning, definitely go with a less expensive ax, Gransfors is a bit expensive for a learner since there is always risk of you ruining the handle or damaging the blade. You should be damaging a 60$ ax edge, not a 150$ ax edge.

>>1058211
I want to tell you to buy the axefu of your dreams.
But I can't in good conscience do it.

Not because you'll break it or something, but because as experience and proficiency increases, tastes and preferences change.

My axfu was the 20" Wetterlings Hunter.
It cost $46 in total.
Shipped from the US back to Europe again.

I had a different mindset toward axes, less knowledge, and less skill.

Would I buy the same axe right now?
Probably not considering the current prices.

Do I regret buying it?
Hard No.

You know what? If you want the SFA just get the SFA and enjoy using it.
Worry about all that shit later.

>>1048022
10,000% this.

Give me a wood handle any day over metal and rubber gripe. Those god damn rubber grips tear up and dry out over time. The metal handle is also heavier and gives you more shock to your hands than wood does.

You can also easily replace a wood handle, even while in the middle of the woods.

>>1049063
>>1049343
Sure thing, kid.

>>1056907
That's okay, because Fiskars axes are shit anyway.

>>1059150
I dunno, i'd say they're pretty decent as maybe a backup truck axe, say if you're a logger and your main axe happens to break, you can keep the Fiskars in your car or tractor as a side axe that you don't really care for and it doesn't need any maintenance.

>>1059150
They're not that bad.

>>1059224
You're about to get shit on by some dude that thinks that plastic handled axes have absolutely NO use.

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which one is better? does one have a significant advantage over the other?

>>1047464
I like my 23.5" fiskars cutting axe.

>>1059434
One has more hold, one spreads the wood more. One is less likely to split the handle, one is easier to remove.
Think about it for 3 seconds and youll know which is which.

>>1059434
Both are good, the circular one spreads the wood better but it's significantly harder to remove plus i always seem to smash them up since about halfway in they seem to develop a lot of friction or something because they are hard to pound in so i always mutilate the top of the wedge.
The flat one is easy to pound in, you can pound in several ones they are easier to remove but they don't offer as much of a spreading effect. I'd say if you put a good wood wedge in the step wedge won't be as critical, however, for a heavier ax head or one that'll take more abuse or pulling at the head for whatever reason, i'd say the circular one.
For things like sledgehammers i always leave 2cm wood above the eye with a wood wedge and i try to put 2 circular wedges and it holds like crazy.

>>1059468
Does it really matter if the handle gets split?
I mean it isn't anything else but just a simple aesthetic split, i doubt it's even possible to make a split lengthwise on the handle by pounding the wedge in.

>>1059715
Nah, its easier then you think to split a handle when driving step wedges. The axe will function fine with it, its just a week point its where moisture and rot will start. Although thats not an issue if you use your axe more then once a year and dont leave it outside. Bassicky what im getting at is no split is better then split.

>>1059727
I assume you're talking about those splits on the top which form from driving in a step wedge? Yeah those are common, i'm talking about a genuine proper split that would go down maybe even through the eye, those i can't imagine would be common.

What do you guys use to set the edge on a new axe?

I used to do it with a file, but a couple of years ago I saw a guy sharpen drill bits on the side of a metal cut off saw.

I tried that on an axe and couldn't believe how well it works.

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>onna type ii contract crew
>(for non ameribros this is about the worst wildland fire job you can get short of being a convict and doing prison labor)
>"take a pulaski and cut this tree"
>never cut wood before but ok
>swing
>hit
>swing
>hit in completely different place
>squad boss is yelling at me
>swing harder, moving my hand down the handle, and hit in a different place yet
>generally take forever and embarrass myself

what the fug how do I into cutting trees and shit

>>1060203
>swing
>hit

Do this ten thousand times.

>>1060203
hand eye coordination
game more anon

but really it just takes a lot of practice. edge alignment is what most struggle with

>>1047398
Just picked up a stihl hatchet at ace hardware for 30 bucks. Everything about it makes it feel like a much more expensive axe. I'm not sure if they're still make by that german company mentioned in another post here, but I after grinding off all the orange and throwing a lanyard on it I'm not sure you can find anything better for that price.

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>>1060226
deep desu

>>1060237
you know, I never played vidya.
>hmm

>>1049343
When they come out with that indestructible Fiskars fibreglass, but it doesn't transfer vibrations that make the tendons in my hands lock closed the next morning, I'll switch over. Until then I'm using wood.

>>1060237
Edge alignment with axes is easy, it's accuracy that takes time. Developing that sort of co-ordination with a tool takes hundreds or thousands of hours.

Chopping wood is all about practice. Learn what kind of cut you're making, then try to make it perfectly. Do this lots. Wildly swinging at a tree until it falls down is going to ruin your axe and teach you little.

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This is on it's way to me in the mail.

Yes, I have previously bought garage sale axes and heads and restored them. Yes, I have bought cheap axes and reprofiled them over the course of hours until they are useable. I just wanted something nice that will be useable straight away for once.

I'll go straight back to re-mounting $5 plumb heads after this, but in the meantime, what do you guys think? Primarily hardwood in Australia, so this is about as Scandinavian as it gets without having your axe stuck in a tree forever.

It was a toss up between this and the Ray Mears wilderness axe (I like heavy heads and thin handles).

>>1060436
As someone who has no experience with neither, the Wetterlings Hudson Bay sounds like a poor choice for Australian hardwoods.

I can't see the thick wedge shape being too efficient.

>>1047398

Whatever you find at the local hardware/whatever that you like.

They do the job.

I go with timber handle simply because that's the only part that'll wear out, and you can replace it easily enough with another.

>>1060448
>sounds like a poor choice for Australian hardwoods

Any axe will do on such just fine.

I use blunt things and they get through any tree I need to clear (wind hazard).

>>1060203
Time and practice, lots and lots of practice.

>>1060436
I'll tell ya what, i have their hunters hatchet and at best it's a "meh" type product. I'll give you a quick overview of it:
Head:The bit feels too long for the size of hatchet and mine has, to my eyes, even more of a wedge shape than the pictured ones on the website. Steel feels pretty solid, the wedge shape is HORRIBLE for anything other than splitting kindling or chopping fresh softwoods like spruce, terrible for carving, unless it's very sharp it'll struggle to make even a "tent stake" (sharp stick in all reality) so i can't imagine butchering an animal with it (only mentioning because it has "hunters" in the name.
Handle: Nice thickness, mine has diagonal grain which is not great but it's a hatchet so it won't matter as much but it does have a little remnant of a knot right at the beginning of the handle which makes it look neat and a bit more unique, aside from that it's pretty nice thickness maybe it could be a little bit narrower if you look at it from the side. Nice hang and when it breaks less sweating to remove the wedges since it's only got a wood wedge, which can be drilled out.
Sheath: Leather feels nice, but the strap has seem to stretched quite a bit for some reason, the leather is STUPID thin, much thinner than either of my Husqy axes.
Overall i'd say it's neat if i'm mainly gonna be splitting kindling and doing very light chopping of sapling sized trees. Would i buy it again? Probably not to be quite frank with you, but i definitely like having it around if not for anything else because it's a "collectible" of sort since the company went under and it is my go-to tool for splitting kindling or even smaller logs.

>>1060494
I mean the bit will *technically* wear down, but that's if you use it very often and have a habit of sharpening out any bit of damage like the youtube bushcraft experts do (tip: don't worry about chips, as long as the corners and majority of the blade is sharp, don't bother)

>>1060697
Big chips can lead to stress fractures.

>>1060723
Yeah but that's generally the proper big chips, 99% of the chips that you'll encounter come from a rock in the wood you're chopping or something and will just end up a small and shallow chip, those, unless they run across more than say half the edge with no sharp, undamaged edge between them, those you really don't need to bother grinding out.

>>1060695
>i can't imagine butchering an animal with it (only mentioning because it has "hunters" in the name.

I'm assuming you have the SAW20C, which I also have.

You butcher the animal with a knife as normal.

You use the axe to split the ribs, and the rounded poll to separate the hide.

As far as the wedge shape, mine is a bit more convex than normal axes but highly effective.

The grind on the Hudson Bay seems to be much thicker though.

The more convexed edge bites very deep in fresh woods.
It can be used with one hand but works better with two.

Don't try and slide your hand.
Just put both hands at the bottom and swing like a baseball bat.

>>1060748
>Just put both hands at the bottom and swing like a baseball bat.
I do that quite often and it does help with the grip, but it does reduce my accuracy i find, luckily it's a hatchet so i don't really take huge swings with it but i think their palm swell is an issue and they should re think it a bit.

>>1050578
>>>reddit

>>1060976
>thinks he's clever

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>>1049777
a loop of string through a belt works perfect. you can make a metal or leather loop if you want but its pointless

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>>1061120

>>1061120
I just use a cheapo leather hammer loop.

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My "meh" axe

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>>1060695
Hudson bayfag here.

If you're having trouble using your axe for carpentry, the best thing you can do is reprofile. The shoulder between the primary bevel and edge is what dictates the angle you can comfortably use the blade at. You can remove metal to convex, put a more acute edge on, or go full scandi/convex scandi. Ultimately you just need a more acute edge, though. Axes can go quite low.

I bought this thing to play around with, mostly because it has plenty of room to mess around reprofiling before the head is useless. I moved the edge back to full scandi and it is an absolute monster at making pegs, feathersticking and the like now. Chops well too, I use it mostly for limbing.

And yeah, after reading reviews online about wetterlings I'm kind of disappointed in what I've ordered. Seems like they don't season their wood before turning out handles, there are hundreds of posts about heads coming off out of the box which can only come from using poorly dried wood. The steel is the same recycled stuff that gransfors uses, so at least the head will be useable. I'll just have to see if the handle falls off when I unpack it.

Might be a bit more work before I can have my every-axe. Have to grab an X15 to get work done until it's ready, I think.

>>1061558
"Every curse taken as blessing"
"A dead child is the best excuse to make a better one"
Old Slavic proverbs of sarcastic depression.

If handle falls off, it's a good thing because it wasn't perfect and you needed a better one anyway.
Don't be worried so much.

>>1061574
Well, I did want a shorter handle on it. Guess I can store the collector's item handle and make one to suit.

>>1061558
Yeah i'm definitely not impressed with the handle on my hatchet, the grain is diagonal (lucky i bought a hatchet so it won't matter as much), but my Husqvarnas came with near perfect, nay, perfect grain, parallel to the edge and no run out.

>>1047466
>a hatchet or cleaver is pleeenty
Is it really though? I don't think a lot of those light hatchets would be very effective like in OP's pic what would those axes even get through besides maybe drift wood that would probably take as long as batoning

>>1064960
OP axes have 6" edges and weigh well over 3lbs.

>>1065035
All the weight looks like it's on the poll of it, the actual blades look really thin. Are you sure those things are over 3 pounds?

>>1065035
That's like, your opinion, man.