Brake job

Know what you're doing before you kill someone

nothing too tricky, just make sure you dont have air in the lines when you're done bleeding them.

>>17563011
double check that you have torqued everything correctly

>>17563011
Awesome blogpost, faggot

It's hard to actually fuck it up, just know if you fuck up while bleeding and let air into the line for some reason, you basically have to start all over. Attention to detail can be the difference between a couple hour job and an all day job.

>>17563011
-Speed Bleeders are a huge time saver, they are a brake valve with a check valve that makes brake bleeding truly a one man job. Prevents air from getting sucked back in, do not need to tighten the brake valve while applying brake pressure.
-Build your own brake fluid capture can: Take an old brake fluid container, drill a small hole in the cap, and run clear vacuum hose through it. Make sure its long enough to make a small coil at the bottom. Secure it with a zip tie below, and above the cap. Drill a small vent hole in the cap, and attach a short silicon vacuum line at the bleeder end. The silicon line will allow it to slip on the brake valve much easier. Speed Bleeders also work on clutch slaves.
-When bleeding brakes, put a piece of wood, or something similar below the brake pedal so it does not bottom out. The extra travel will cause the seal inside the master cylinder to potentially come in contact with rough metal causing damage to the seal. If you ever bleed brakes and found that the master cylinder went bad, its because the seal was exposed to contaminants inside, and failed.
-Braided brake lines can be very expensive in kit form, but custom lines are lot less expensive. Sites like anplumbing.com/ they will get everything you need for a lot less. You can also minimize their complexity by switching from a two piece, to a one piece line. Depending on vehicle, and brake line routing.
-Rotors and pads. If you want better braking, start with proper tires, and good suspension. If that checks out, start with good pads. No need to upgrade your rotors to slotted, or drilled. Those are for cooling, and preventing brake fade. So unless you do a lot of racing, or live in the mountains those rotors will wear your pads faster, and most cant be resurfaced. They also have reduced braking surface. While you're getting your brakes done, take the time to clean up, and lubricate the side pins. Remember to use brake lube only.

Loctite every bolt.

>>17563011
May as well get new rotors and a caliper rebuild kit ($20 per caliper, I also have 4 pot Brembos)

>>17565214
this isnt even close to being a blog post

you're a retard, stop posting.

>>17563011
Might as well replace the master cylinder also.
Blow out the solid lines that run down the frame with compressed air (I'm guessing you're not changing those).