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Need Diesel Mercedes help

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Thread replies: 18
Thread images: 6

I just bought this 1982 300sd W126 and I was wondering how much vacuum line/hose do i need to replace the whole system? ( not all the doors lock) Other problems i'm having with is are the speedo is off the tach doesn't work and neither does the cruise control and the front seats are all ripped up. The AC used to not work but I fixed that myself already.
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you're better off asking a forum specific to mercedes / mercedes diesels about this shit.

/o/ doesn't know jack shit.
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>>17188238
This
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>>17188221
A) if this is a project car you should know how to do this shit or at least know how to go down to Autozone and buy a fucking Haynes manual.

B) if you bought this ratty piece of shit w/o knowing how to fix it, you're a fucking idiot, please leave.
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>>17188261
I have a Haynes manual for a w123 and I'm pretty sure it does not tell how much vacuum line you need to do a full vacuum system replacement.
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most of the pipes are emissions crap. You can just block them off. Look for a pdf for 126 or look on peach parts
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>>17188221
Idfk, take the hose out and measure it.
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>>17188221

Mercedes diesel owner here...w123 daily driver, I do all the wrenching.

A Haynes for a w123 won't do you any good - you have a w126.

That's the same engine and transmission from the 300D though...so some stuff would be similar.

Don't delete vacuum lines or emissions stuff - repair it and drive the car Mercedes designed.

You have mostly 4mm hardlines probably. Start with about 4 meters, assuming you're going to do the inside lines too, but be aware - replace all the rubber connectors under the hood first. They leak...hard lines rarely do.

For routing, look on the core support for the diagram, or go online and find one - be sure it's for YOUR car. DO NOT disconnect the system without understanding how it works - your car won't shift right, and you probably won't have ac controls or door locks.

If your doors don't lock, start with the actuators in the doors. Look under the front passenger carpet, you'll see a junction for the door locks. Test each one from there, and replace the connectors/actuators that don't work. Also, your door locks are all controlled from the drivers lock, so if it's bad you'll get odd results.

Buy a mity vac, or something similar, to test your vacuum system - best money you'll spend, by far.

As a beginner, look to mercedessource for info and tools. The guy knows his stuff. Only buy parts from there if you can't find them anywhere else - his prices can be high. Buy genuine Mercedes parts as often as you can.

A working vacuum system in these diesels is critical. Learn it, understand it, and embrace it. They really are a thing of beauty.

Speedo and tach could be a few things - check the speedo cable routing. Might be easier to just get a good used cluster and replace yours. With age, the solder joints can crack and you'll get odd results.

Cruise could be a relay, or could be vacuum related if you have the vacuum controlled pod.
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It's impractical for me to post all that data here, so I'd recommend that you get access to the Mercedes-Benz EPC. There's an online-based system called EPCnet which supposedly either didn't cost anything for North American citizens or it was cheap, can't remember.
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>>17188221
>the front seats are all ripped up
Cheapest option is to get seats out of pnp.
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>>17189579
W201 diesel owner here, my trans refuses to shift into third until it's warm (about 4 minutes of driving). I've read that it's "normal", ever hear anything about that? checking vacuum diagram and buying hose connectors now.
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>>17192222
How long has it been since you've changed the trans oil and filter?
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>>17192333
I've had it for 3 months, unsure of when previous owners did it. The ATF still looks good, I was thinking of doing the k1 spring so i'd change those while i'm in there.
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>>17192222
Assuming a US car, depending on the year, your car will have a 722.3 or 722.4 transmission, and both do have a 2-3 shift delay for the emission control system to warm up...specifically for the catalyst to reach operating temperature. You can't really change this easily...

I'm not super familiar with the 722.3 and 722.4, but if I had to pretend to be in a Mercedes engineer's head, here's what I envision: the engine temp is determined by coolant temp, so there might be a temp switch on or near the thermostat housing that regulates vacuum. On the w123, for instance, this is a 17 degree vacuum valve that allows the EGR to receive vacuum, thus enabling that model's emission control system.

The 722 transmissions until the mid 90s used vacuum to control the quality, and sometimes timing, of the shifts - high vacuum to the transmissions softens and stacks shifts, low vacuum delays shifts.

This is speculation, but it's in line with what Mercedes had been doing since the 70s with emission control - vacuum was metered to control the system. The only way to bypass this vacuum metering is to figure out the routing, and reroute around, or eliminate, the switch that holds back vacuum from the transmission until the engine is warm. These vacuum systems are EXTREMELY complex and they must be working PERFECTLY, or you'll get bad shifting, bad locks/act controls, etc.

Whatever you do - DO NOT rebuild or modify your transmission or the vacuum modulator or VCV until the entire rest of your vacuum system is healthy. The 722 transmissions are very robust, and rarely really need to be rebuilt. Almost all rebuilds, especially if a shop recommends one, are unneeded!!!
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>>17191144
EPC is no longer free, but you can find it online for free...try "everything Mercedes" and poke around.

Note that EPC covers worldwide models - be very very very very careful digging into it - cars even within the same model years, in the same regions, can vary. Double and triple check your car against the diagrams, and remember - the diagrams are to identify parts, and are not a schematic.

For instance, your vacuum system has three major parts - emissions control, transmission, and accessories, in addition to the brake booster line and check valve, and the three systems have their own EPC diagrams, but are all interconnected. Find the diagram that would have been on your core support under the hood - that shows the entire system.
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>>17191268

Leather or (less so...) MB-Tex from a pnp will be hit or miss... For the best overall selection look on eBay...but be prepared to pay for it. Check your color codes to be sure you're getting a match.

There's no good cheap option for replacement seat/pads/covers for these cars. They're old, and most show their age, unless you buy low miles ($$$)

Consider finding MB-Tex covers/seats for the front. Leather is great, but MB-Tex from the 70s and 80s wears like iron.
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>>17194319
It's a US 1986 2.5 190d, My car still has the vacuum line sticker on the core support so i'll double check my lines. Thanks for the hints
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merc master race.
W123 is definitely one of the best cars ever built.
Thread posts: 18
Thread images: 6


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