Body rust prevention

clean it regularly
inspect all drainage holes and keep clear of debris

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Strip the entire car to bare metal
Coat the inside of the frame rails with internal frame paint
Seal the whole car with DP90 (not lead free, track down the real stuff)
Paint the underside of the car with bedliner (aside from suspension attachment points)
Paint the body with a high quality urethane

That's what I would do personally in your position if I had to have that car, but it's a shit ton of work. I've owned an 80 and a 40, both great cars, the 62s are great as well but extremely underpowered (not that other generations are rockets either).

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>>17021231
I'd beg the differ on the "underpowered" claim. The 12H-Ts are more than adequate.

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>>17020520
Well, dear friend, rust-proofing a vehicle is a lot of labor, it will not be easy. You will swear a lot, but in the end, it will be worth it.
First, forget everything paint-related, in short everything that is not oil or grease. Paints and bitumen will crack eventually, and rust pockets will form behind it, and the worst is, you will not see them until it is too late.
Here's what you need to do it like a pro:
-Angle grinder with wire brush, hammer, chisel, etc to remove as much rust as possible after cleaning your car well with a pressure washer and let it dry for a week.

- pressure cup gun with cavity probe and other spraying nozzles
- wire cable grease. (really hard grease which is thinned with white gas)
- petroleum jelly (vaseline)
- petroleum
- white mineral oil

First, you mix the petroleum jelly with white oil until you get a substance with a thick slimey behaviour, maybe a little bit more fluid than nutella, but not much more. Heat it to melt if you have problems mixing. This is the substance that gets sprayed in all cavities which are not directly exposed to water spray. Like the inside of doors, everything in the frame that is hollow. You mix it with petroleum until you can spray it, and then apply it generously in all aforementioned cavities with the cavity probe. Your car will smell like petroleum for a bit, but not that long.

Second, you mix your cable grease with 10% of the slime that you made before. This mixture is applied everywhere under your car, everywhere, and generously so. Frame, bed, axles, suspension, brake lines, everything. After a time the cable grease will solidify and form a substance which will be hard and sticky, but it will still be able to creep.

cont.

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>>17022910
cont:
The stuff I mentioned works, because it prevents oxygen and water from reaching the steel. The white oil will creep forever and fill the tiniest rust pockets automatically, so it will hold up a long time. Paint will never reach the tiny gaps in sheet metal fold seams, but water will, and rust will form. Oil and grease will get there, displace water and prevent rust.
Every two years, inspect your work.

I did this on my Toyota a year ago and even in the wheel housings the cable grease coat still holds up.

If you google "'Mike Sanders" you will find a similar grease (90% vaseline, 10% bee wax) that is also very popular among car enthusiasts, but has the disadvantage that it needs to be heated when applied, a complicated process which is avoided with the mixtures I mentioned. Have a few youtube videos:
Outside application:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ke0W2UNJMqg

Inside application:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mWxJZlmSJmM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJCR-O9DsEI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FadHdYI7Osk

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>>17022955
Basically, your car needs to look like pic related when you're done.

I dont know where you live op, but ive been doing rust checks in an automotive shop for a long while now and it really helps extend the life of a car. Right now theres an olds outside the shop that has had it done to it every year since it was made, and kept in a garage when not being driven, that has not a speck of rust anywhere on it. If i were you id google it.

>>17022955
Seems really flammable, ever have any issues with that?

>>17023631
No. A bit got to the exhaust pipe, so I started the car and let it idle for 15min with a fire extinguisher in reach to see what happens. The grease got liquid and a few drops fell off, the rest smoked a little and was gone quickly. I read a posting of a Landrover guy who sprayed a lot of Mke Sanders in his car, and on a hot day driving up a mountain pass in italy some parts melted and dropped on his hot exhaust system. He reported it smoked so much the whole road was not visible any more, but no fire. Out of curiosity, I sprayed a bit directly to the mainfold and started the car, but again, a bit of smoke, no fire. So in the future, I won't take a lot of care anymore not to spray the exhaust system. In fact, I sprayed everything behind the catalytic converter, and the secondary muffler stays cold enough that the grease stays there.
I just would not smoke while petroleum and white gas is evaporating everywhere while and shortly after spraying.
And you need to wear a really old overall while you work, and a hair cover. I got some in my hair, and needed to was it 3 times to get that grease out :-/

Fluid Film.

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>>17020520
I used to own a FJ62. Toyota really didn't use a very good rust prevention coating back in the day, your smart to rust proof it.

I sold the 62 but I bought a new 60. I'm planing on using some Chassis Saver on the outside frame and then pack the interior of the frame with some fluid flim. But I'm not sure what I'd use on the body rust yet. I'm planning to attack it with some walnut shell to remove the light rust then spray it down with some type of rust converter but I'm not sure how that would look after a paint finish.

>>17020520
>Winter means salty roads
After get home, get hot water from inside the house for the pump sprayer which has a nice long angled spray wand. Knock off any ice and snow before spraying. Spray starting with the sides of the car and fender area. Spray lightly the bottom of the car so that dripping starts to get rid of the highest concentration. I don't rinse off thoroughly on the first pass around because I want the dripping action to carry off the salt water. This reduces the amount of water I have to spray since I don't want to refill the big pump bottle again. After one pass around the car, I do the 2nd pass. There is enough water for +3 passes from the 2.5 gallon sprayer.

Ice doesn't form on the driveway since I salt it. The salt doesn't splash up on the car so no problem. By the time I have cleaned and put away the pump, the car has finished dripping and I drive it inside the garage.

Before I drive to work, I fill the pump bottle with water. After I get to work, I spray the salt residue off the car and put the empty pump sprayer inside the car. I then go in to work. The +8 hours the car sits out there is fine because I've taken most of the salt off.

Remember to leverage the effect of the dripping to carry off the salt. That really makes that 2.5 gallons last a lot longer. Brute force spraying means fewer passes and you need multiple passes to deal with how salty solution flows back into a freshly rinsed spot. That's why when you have limited water availability, having multiple passes of light rinses is better than one strong rinse. You don't stay in one spot, but lightly rinse new areas and let the dripping continue to carry off the salt.

Is there any type of "additive" I can use with water to remove salt residue more effectively?

>>17030746
There are tons of people selling salt neutralizers. I don't know what the special sauce in them is or how well they work but they do exist.

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>>17033534
Those "salt neutralizers" are probably variations of that "Jet Dry" blue liquid you put into dishwashers. It reduces the water surface tension. The water thus runs off the surface instead of beading up, drying, and leaving a mineral spot (salts).

It'll be interesting if one of you guys with the pump sprayers trys some and notices (or not) if the additive changes the way the water drips off. It probably doesn't work on dirty or porous surfaces though. I'm guessing that a rusty surface emulates a porous surface's roughness, so the salty water will probably continue to hang on to that kind of rough surface.

>>17034404
I went and looked and they're acids with corrosion inhibitors to break down the salt and help it run off the car. The Ohio DOT apparently has a lot of time on their hand.
http://www.dot.state.oh.us/Divisions/Planning/SPR/Research/reportsandplans/Reports/2014/Materials/134718_FR.pdf

I actually looked into finding a superhydrophobic coating that could be used as an undercoat but all the commercially available ones rub off incredibly easily which means you'd have to reapply once a month or more and they're ridiculously expensive. I suspect the industrially available ones aren't much better or I'd try and get someone to send me some under the pretense that I have dozens of plow trucks I'm looking to coat.