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My Automatic Volvo 240 stalls at stoplights.

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Thread replies: 21
Thread images: 3

File: 20170330_072214.jpg (2MB, 5312x2988px) Image search: [Google]
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I have a 1990 Volvo 240DL with 346k miles on it and I am having this really weird issue where when I'm coming to a stop the car will sometimes stall like when you let out the clutch slowly on a manual transmission without giving it gas. It's not a jerky stall just dumping the clutch. It's like you are slowly letting the clutch out while holding the brakes. but this is an automatic. The car will start right back up no problem after it stalls and I can keep going down the road fine like nothing happened.

It's really hard to trace the problem because it only happens about once every few months.
Is this just a quirk the car has because of it's age and mileage or is the car starting to show signs of wanting to retire?

any opinions or advice is appreciated. I love my car and I would really like to fix it. If it's transmission related maybe I can just manual swap it.
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>>16933432
I don't know about Volvo specifically, but I used to have a 545rfe that would do this. It was the torque converter lock mechanism (a device designed to increase efficiency at high speed by essentially stopping torque converter slippage.) When it fails to disengage at low speed it can cause your engine to stall.
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I agree with >>16933486, does it happen more frequently when you're pressing the brakes hard? Or just creeping up to a light?
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>>16933518
its 100% always when creeping to a light. I've never had it stall when braking hard.
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File: 1414214.jpg (85KB, 540x960px) Image search: [Google]
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Okay heres what you need to to:

Take the car, sell it to me. Lemme LS swap it. Buy new car. Congratulations your car is now fixed.
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>>16933557
It's too solid of a car for me to let go. It is so clean underneath I wish I had pictures. If I have to park it over the summer until I can afford to manual swap it or slap a new torque converter in it I will.
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>>16933432

Can clean your idle air valve to get that out of the way. Fuel starvation is a good place to look.
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I've had this issue on a couple of different vehicles. One was the engine would start running lean after it was warmed up and slowing down to a stop. The engine would also hunt for idle when stopped. In my case, it was a faulty MAF sensor that was causing the ECU to be unable to calculate the fuel-air ratio. Other common things to check on this are:

-- the IAC valve
-- the PCV
-- vacuum leaks in hoses and gaskets
-- broken intake manifold
-- bad O2 sensors

On my other vehicle, the car didn't need to be warmed up. It would hesitate as I slowed own while in drive and would stall while stopped unless I gave a bit of gas while holding the brake. This was a transmission issue.
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>>16933663
I'll go about checking those on my next off day. If one of those sensors went bad wouldn't it throw a check engine light though? Or is OBD I just really lenient?
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>>16933432
see if it still stalls in neutral. that'll isolate an engine vs trans problem.
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Clean your flame trap.
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>>16933714
obd1 is a joke most of the time.

my money is on vacuum leak or iacv
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>>16933759
That's a good idea! Do you think constantly going into neutral while coasting to every stop light is bad for an automatic? This is the first automatic car i've owned so automatic transmissions may as well be witchcraft for all i know
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>>16933800
it's a diagnosis thing. only doing it a handful of times wouldn't hurt anything
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>>16933432
I had a '93 auto and a '92 manual that both did this occasionally. Replace the fuel pump relay. It costs like ten bucks and sits right behind the glovebox. Takes ten seconds to replace. Check all the fuses and spin them in their sockets. The fuse panel in 240s is notorious for slowly corroding over time, leading to shoddy connections. Plus the European style fuses you get at the local Canadian Tire or Autozone or whatever are made of plastic, and can heat up and melt. You can get real ceramic ones on Ebay for cheap, those stand up much better. If you feel like it replace every fuse, and give each fuse holder a good cleaning with sandpaper, and add a little smear of grease to each one. That'll prevent corrosion. It could also be one of the fuel pumps, though I doubt it. There's an in-tank pump, and an inline pump outside of the tank. If one of them starts to go, the other one has to pick up the slack, and soon they'll both be burned out. Again, they're cheap to replace and really easy to get to. Good luck!
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>>16933432
OP I have a 1990 244 DL that does a similar thing.


>Stalls if you jab gas
>Hesitates
>Is hard to start, disabling fuel and it cranks normally

Does your engine stall if you jab gas while in gear? I literally have to roll my throttle in, or it hesitates and then stalls.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ysjagc51ju0dwso/2017-03-16%2022.49.17.mp4?dl=0
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>>16933909
What grease do you recommend?
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>>16934484
Dielectric grease is recommended for electrical connections, but really any automotive grease will work. Just don't gob it on. A thin film on the metal is all you need.
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>>16933909
Thanks for the info! I can do all of that today and it's a good place to start. The fuel pumps in the car aren't more than 3 years old I sure hope it isn't them.

>>16934482
fortunately not. Mine starts right back up no problem. I wish you much luck with yours anon.
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>>16936425
Oh yeah, then I highly doubt it would be the pumps. When my in-tank pump went it was the original and had 350,000km on it.
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>>16933486
>torque converter lock
When it feels like it's happening, throw the trans into neutral. If the engine picks back up, suspect that lockup mechanism. Take to transmission shop, pay the bill and mutter "I shoulda bought a manual."

If it still stalls, suspect a manifold air leak or messed up idle air circuit. If it has a carburetor, some have an idle cut solenoid. I had one where the controller went dead and the engine would not idle (in neutral) without blipping the gas pedal.
Thread posts: 21
Thread images: 3


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