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/QTDDTOT/ QUESTIONS THAT DON'T DESERVE THEIR OWN THREAD

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/qtddtot/

New thread, old one was ~5 posts to bump limit.

What could be a possible cause of skirt warping like this on a car? Car is a 1-owner trade-in with a clean vehicle history report. Want to know before I invest further in the process.

Pics to follow
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Possible a side skirt that was applied and removed?
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>>16358966
>>16358968
also check 'em
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>>16358966
>>16358968
>>16358971
>>
>>16358968
....what? that's normal on most newer cars. The texture makes it harder for grime/mud/ice to stick to the paint there.
>>
>>16359358
I don't necessarily mean the texture, I mean the actual bending of the metal. Is that fairly normal for a used car? '07, by the way.
>>
With the 25 year import law and rx7 23rd being able to import in the next few years is price going to drop? Should I buy one asap or buy one in 2 years?
>>
>>16359374
FD prices will rise both with '92s being able to be imported as well as the new RX.

A lot of FD owners are selling theirs at markups to pay for the new one. Take a look at R32 prices on imports for an example of what will happen with FDs.
>>
Someone didn't use the correct jack location
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>>16359401
Is that all? It's consistent on every side. If that's it then I suppose it could be a lost worse. Thanks m8.
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>>16359374
>>16359391
>tfw Canadian
Y'all can buy this from me in February 2019 for 30 grand
>>
>>16359450
>tfw no matter how fucked our auto laws are we will never be a leaf with Trudeau as our head of state

feels good man
>>
>>16359368
Gosh I don't know what could bend metal on a 2 tonne mobile eggshell...Maybe they fucking drove over a curb?
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>>16359469
He's a puppet, I don't give a shit. I'm just here because I was born here.

Wouldn't want to live in the states or most of Europe right now, anyway. But that doesn't leave me a lot of places to move to in the future
>>
>>16358966
How can an inner fender need to be replaced? Ruling out corrosion. A car I'm looking at has had its left hand inner fender replaced and the hood as well. The outer fenders haven't been touched.
>>
>>16359358
>>16359368
I hate that. I see so many new cars with that paint texture all over them- usually luxury American cars. It looks like the paint started running. Fucking awful. I hope that shit goes away after the paint sits and is washed and waxed for a year.

Take a lesson from Lexus and Jaguar if you want a proper paint job
>>
Wuss poppin' b?

Got a bit of a problem, might be two different things, here goes

>horn doesn't work when pressed, but does work when i lock car
>cruise control doesn't work, the lights don't even come on at night like the rest of the dashboard
>airbag warning light came on
>steering wheel makes a sort of "crunch noise" when turned all the way either direction
>when driving 60mph or more, i can hear a rattling sound behind the steering wheel whatever it's called
>feel steering wheel vibrate a lot too
Which for the last 2 i think it might be a wherl alignment issue but I'm not sure
>>
>>16359718
>b
>Doesn't tell us the make/model/year


All I can figure is you have some major electrical problems
>>
Today I was about to make a left turn, but saw that the gate was closed, when it usually isn't. So then I tried to merge into the right lane, since the cars were still a decent distance away. For good measure, I stepped on the accelerator pretty hard. Car lost control, started turning back and forth really quickly, and then finally started going straight at a steady 40 mph, even though I was trying to make it accelerate faster (although I won't rule out the fact that I was scared shitless and my leg might just have been paralyzed with fear). This was in a 2008 Ford Focus. Luckily the car next to me swerved out of the way.

I'm a complete car noob, but my question is:

Is there something wrong with my car, or is this to be expected if you try and accelerate too fast? I just completely stomped on the accelerator to try to get to 50 mph as fast as possible since that's what the traffic was coming at. I know it was dumb and I should have waited for traffic to pass. This happened like 20 minutes ago and I can still feel the adrenaline and can clearly see myself getting T-boned by the F150 coming in at 50 mph.
>>
May be too technical of a Q, but whatever.

Anyone here use aftermarket guages? I have a mk2 gti that's gonna get a 1.8t transplant. I don't want to use the mk4 dash, and my existing dash also sucks. I want to rip out the insert where the actual switches, gauge pod, and shit is and replace it with sheet aluminum and VDO gauges for optimal monitoring of all of my shenanigans. Speedo should be mechanical off the 2Y trans and the tach I should be able to wire independently of the ECU, if the factory output can't be made to work with the new gauges. Is there a hole in my logic here? Am I missing anything? It's tough to get a straight answer.
>>
>>16359979
I should add that when it was moving back and forth, my car wasn't accelerating much, if at all, I was too scared to notice. Could it also have been because it was raining earlier this morning? There wasn't any noticeable rain markings left on the floor, since this was California rain we're talking about, so it was more like sprinkles that dried up already. I checked and my car tires are still slightly wet though. Which brings me to another question, could it be a problem with my tires, or could my tires have messed up during this?
>>
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On a scale from 1-10, how hard is it to install pic related?

I just want a remote starter so that I can have my car toasty in the garage while I get ready for work in the morning.


I have messed with the car a bit (hard-wired dash cams), and my brother owns a body shop so I have all the tools and space.

But should I not be a Jew and just pay someone if it's not worth the trouble?
>>
>>16359979
>>16360003
It's called Torque Steer, and it's completely normal in a FWD car with a decent power/weight ratio.
>>
>>16360141
Thank you so much. So I take it that I shouldn't be worried and that I just need to accelerate more slowly next time?
>>
>>16360213
Not the anon you replied to, but it may have been exaggerated by the wet road and loss of traction. California roads are slick when wet I've noticed. I live by Sacramento and I'm from Indiana. I swear I've driven on snow stickier than wet pavement here.
>>
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500hd with a 5 speed. No factory cruise control. What's my best option for changing that? No plans for using cruise going up and down hills.
>>
When I turn my car on accessory mode my oil light, cel, and powersteering stay on while everything else disapears. When I turn the car all the way on it goes away. What does this mean?
>>
>>16360213
Yeah, google it for the specifics, just try not to floor it from a stop or almost-stop
>>
>>16360128
Depends on the car, if older than late 90s probably about a 4 if newer 11.
>>
>>16360266
Find a junked 2500hd that came with cruise, pull off all the relevant parts and transplant
>>
>>16360364
Not a fucking thing, retard.
>>
>>16360364
You sure you're in accessory? Sounds like you're in run right before start
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>>16360397
Sorry my bad forget what's it's called. When you turn your car on half way to where it's using the battery only.
>>
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>>16359718
There's a coil of wire just below the steering wheel in the top of your steering column. I'd say this is fucked.
This also connects the airbag in the steering wheel to the airbag computer, so if you're squeamish about it take it to a mechanic.
>>
>>16360417
It's a lamp test. Means everything's working as it should.
>>
>>16360364
Yes its normal. It's your computer running a quick diagnostic really fast.
>>
>>16360468
That's pretty gay when you think about it
>>
>>16360450
Yeah but everything else disappears after a second. The cel, battery, oil, and powersteering stay there. I don't see that in my dads car
>>
>>16359530
Tire blowout.

>>16359987
The only problem I can see is the speedometer will need to have the right input speed.
Meaning the speedo drive might be 1,020 revolutions per mile, some might be 1,100 revolutions per mile, etc.

Electronic tach drive is pretty much the same across all similar 4-stroke engine configurations. A 4 cylinder tach will work on any 4 cylinder, an 8 cylinder tach will work on any 8 cylinder, etc. Aftermarket tachs take their drive off the ignition coil.

There will also be an issue with the fuel gauge but that's nothing some measuring and electronic wizardry can't take care of. It's a well-documented thing and a little googling will go a long way.
>>
>>16360479
Not really. If you every wonder if your check engine light is supposed to be on, but its burnt out. Youll know when you turn your key to run if its bad or if its working. Same with abs lights and shit.
>>
Hey /QTDDTOT/, I have an '87 RX7 whose passenger-side light stopped popping up. Just the other day it was working fine, but the past couple days it started lagging a bit behind the driver-side light but it would still come up. Yesterday it stopped coming up at all.
Curiously though, if I start manually winding up the light it'll start popping up by itself (in little bursts).
This is my first time dealing with pop-up headlights and I'm not too experienced with electrical stuff. I've been trying to find out what's going on but the closest thing I've found is a guy that had a (what I think sounds like) a similar problem with his FD3S (http://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fd3s-headlight-motor-fix-writeup-1067488/) but I'm anxious about taking the whole thing apart all for nothing especially if the retractor motor in the FC is very different from the one in the FD.
Is this usually how the motor goes and I need to start looking for a new retractor motor? Or does it seem like it's something that can be fixed?
>>
>>16360493
Becausedifferent cars do different shit. Its when the lights stay on after the car is actually on when you should worry. My chevys CEL doesnt turn off until i turn the actual car on, whilst my buddys toyota all them turn off after like 2 seconds
>>
Anyone have a recommendation on a junkyard electric fan for a drag car?
>>
>>16360526
Just grease your shit motor, and make sure the light isnt rubbing. Friction could be all that is wrong here.
>>
>>16360533
I have a mazda 3. That's good to hear tho. I was having a mini panic attack for a second
>>
>>16359718
>>16359888
>>16360435
Sorry my family,
>2012
>nissan
>versa
>fwd
>1.6l
>automatic
>>
>>16360384
It's a 2013.

Guess I'll just pay a shop pro.
>>
>>16360718
Make and model doesn't really matter all that much lol. Every manufacturer does the clockspring wire thing when there's multiple switches and an airbag in the steering wheel.
As for the vibration that could be any number of things.

>Flat spot on the tire
>Unbalanced tire
>Bent rim
>Warped brake rotor
>Bad shocks
>Bad ball joints
>Bad bushings
>Bad steering box mounts
>Bad tie rods
>Bad CV joints
>Bad wheel bearing
Basically you should inspect EVERYTHING.

Push down on each front corner of the car. If it bounces, the shocks are done. If it returns to normal ride height without a bounce, the shocks are fine.

Jack the front end up and put the car in neutral.
Spin the tire, looking at the tread and runout. Listen for any dragging noises and feel for any grinding or 'bumpy' spots.
Shake the wheel up and down. There shouldn't be any play in it. Put a prybar between the ground and the wheel and give it a pull, watching for any movement.
If there is, start watching for where it's happening, whether it's in the ball joints, wheel bearing or suspension bushings. Also watch the strut to make sure the strut mount hasn't gone bad.

Next, make sure the steering wheel is locked. Shake the wheel side to side. You're looking for play in the tie rods and movement in the steering box.

Next, pull the wheel off and give it another spin, watching the rotor for runout.

Give the CV axle a shake. There shouldn't be any side-to side play in it.
>>
>2009 BMW 335i on CL
>photo of window sticker shows Logic7 option
>look up vin on decoder, decoder shows HiFi sound, no Logic7

Is this enough reason to walk away? Is it common for a car to be coded incorrectly? Everything else seems to match, there's no picture of the center of the dash for me to determine whether the extra Logic7 speakers are there.
>>
>>16360435
Also, are you refering to the clockspring?
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>>16360872
Yup, that's exactly what I'm talking about.
>>
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>no idle power at all
>car jerks hard when I give it gas from a stop, rolls backward on hills when I let the brake off and push the gas pedal down

help

03 Galant with 3.0 L 6G72 V6
>>
>>16360923
Change your fuel and air filter, and check your MAF sensor.
If it has an MAP sensor, check that, too.
>>
2003 ford escape. Cruise control doesn't work. Light comes on but nothing else works. Where do I begin diagnosis?
>>
>>16360923
What happens when you floor it from a stop?
>>
>>16360948
Check to make sure the actuator under the hood is getting vacuum
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>>16361025

lurches and tires chirp
>>
>>16361072

Hesitates, RPMs go up and then the car moves
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>>16361118
It's automatic, right?
Check your trans fluid.
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>>16359718
Clockspring behind the wheel is fucked, it's that thing that routes all the electrical connections from the column to the wheel.
Explains the grinding noise, the horn not working and the missing lights and functionality of cruise control
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>>16361179
I figured it was, i just wanted to be sure by getting some input
>>
I've got a leaky clutch master cylinder, it's leaking from where the cylinder housing meets the wall of the car. I'm a lazy shit and it'd be a massive process to swap it with a new one (1987 mr2) so instead I'd rather bandage fix it. So, first is there any sealant like a silicone I could just slap around it to make it stop? I'm assuming not since brake fluid is nasty shit. Secondly, could I perhaps just change the fluid to dot5/5.1 and just top it off with no adverse affects to my paint or drivability/clutch life. I assume dot5/5.1 has the same hydrualic characteristics as 3/4 so there shouldn't be any change in clutch feel or travel or anything right?
>>
>>16361216
Nope. Fluid showing up at the firewall means it's leaking internally.
You're just going to have to bite the bullet and change it.
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>>16361278
Niggers. I have one last ditch effort of torqueing the fuck out of the nuts and tighten down the cylinder housing more and if that doesn't work then dot5 clutch fluid here I come
>>
>>16361285
>clutch fluid
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>>16361285
Just change the bitch, you'll end up getting stranded if you don't.
>>
>>16361308
s-sorry, brake fluid
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>>16361285
Please don't do that, you'll strip out the studs, and it won't stop the leak.
That's just a flange to mount it, and doesn't do ANY sealing.
I'll post a pic of an individual cylinder in my next post.

Anyways, if this is what your car looks like, that's not hard to get to.
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>>16361335
I just had to remove my brake lines, repaint the frunk, replace the brake master cylinder and put everything back, I am not doing all that bullshit again so soon. I'll swap the clutch cylinder some time next year.
>>
>>16361348
It doesn't? Well shit.
>>
>>16361367
Since you had everything apart, and you knew the shit was old, why didn't you replace it then?
>>
How hard is it to refresh a Ford 8.8 rear end? special tools needed? My mercs is getting loud and Id like to swap to a traction lok and 31 spline axles in.
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>>16361379
I (apparently) mis-diagnosed what caused pic related. I thought it was the brake mc (which to be fair was leaking and did need to be replaced), but now I see it was the clutch mc leaking from that flange that was the cause. You're right that I should have replaced that while I was at it, but I didn't. I will soon, but not immediately. I guess I won't bandage fix it with some dot5 fluid after all, I'll just keep something there to soak it up until I replace it. Thanks for letting me see the light /o/
>>
>>16361381
what are you doing? just replacing the carrier, or ring pinion and everything?

If you're replacing the pinion and ring, you need a setup to measure backlash, possibly a shim kit for the pinion, and you'll probably need a press to press on and off the bearings.

I did everything short of pulling apart the carrier when I rebuilt mine, just threw a new track-lok carrier, and ring and pinion in.
>>
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>>16361375
>>16361367
Here's what's happening.
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>>16361216
>>16361285
>>16361367
>>16361404
dot 5 is silicone based and IS NOT compatible with glycol based dot 3/4/5.1
>>
>>16361423
No shit, which is why I'd swap it out completely and not top it off. Regardless, I'm not going to bother anymore since fixing the actual problem is a much better idea.
>>
>>16358971
The bends are probably from someone being careless while jacking up the car
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>>16358966
oop I posted in the old thread

We've had a 280zx sitting for about 10 years, but right before we put it away, we put new fluids in it, I checked it not too long ago and the fluids looked just about brand new, as seen in pic related
Asides from an oil and fuel change, would it be alright to use the fluids it already has just while we're working on getting it up and running again?
There's a few things that are dry, like the power steering fluid and coolant reservoirs, but like here, in the clutch master cylinder, it's pretty alright looking.
>>
>>16362199
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it should be changed before you start driving it.
>>
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>>16362217
that was dry as well (line may have busted and drained), when I checked, the oil was clean, fluid in clutch MC was clean, coolant was neon green in the radiator, etc. So is that the only fluid I should look out for?
>>
>>16362332
The stuff in the clutch hydraulic system IS brake fluid.
Also the water pump will probably be bad, but don't worry about that until you run the engine and verify it's condition.
>>
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How in a fat baby's dick am I supposed to find the highlighted parts?

Any of you purchase transmission parts? The pieces inside it. Not torque converters or something like that. Where do you get them from? I can't find them anywhere. Can't even find what to look for. I've found diagrams, but I need the specific parts. Seems like they're not being sold?

I've seen kits for sale, but that's just the generic stuff.
>>
>>16362485
Depends on the manufacturer, but most car companies sell transmission as whole remanufactured units, if you want individual parts you may have to contact the transmission manufacturer directly, or even a transmission shop.
>>
>>16362485
Have you tried looking around in pick a parts?
>>
Looking for a daily that can climb over a 6 inch curb without tearing the bumper off or scraping the a hole in the oil pan. Thoughts?
>>
>>16362485
Also it would help us to know what car you are looking for.

aftermarket Diff carriers and ring & pinions are availiable in cars that have common differentials, Like 8.8's in fords, and 12 bolts in GM's
>>
>>16362554
Ranger/Shit Dime.
>>
>>16362564
shit dime?
>>
>>16362564
>>16362571
oh, S-10
>>
>>16362564
>shit-dime
kek
>>
>>16362564
Was looking at rangers, but there's 10x more F150s than Rangers in my area and budget. Are the half ton's particularly worse than the quarter tons?
>>
>>16362624
Depends on the year but typically the Vulcan and Colonge V6 in the Ranger was as thirsty as the 30 V8 in the F150, so operating costs weren't much different but on the other hand the 302 wasn't putting much more power over the Cologne in the last few years it was made.

The 4.6 and 5.4 modular engines have a lot of issues if not properly cared for, and personally as a 302 guy I would stay away from them, but your mileage may vary.
>>
>>16362667
Thanks. That's helpful.
>>
>>16362667
There's also the 300 I6.
I don't think they're much of a mileage improvement over the 302 though
>>
07 Outlander 4wd v6 with 190k km or an 08 Outlander fwd v4 220k km? They both have an asking price of 5k canadian. Also any reason to pass on both? Previous car got writen off and I cant afford/dont want to spend more.
>>
>>16362685
True, but they tended to be a lot more reliable than the Windsors, the trade off being that there's more of an after market for the Windsor.
>>
>>16362690
>hey both have an asking price of 5k canadian
They're both shitsubishis.

Mitsubishi hasn't imported a decent SUV since the 90's

Also they didn't come with V4's
>>
>>16362714
Heh, yeah. The first one I ever drove had 400,000 miles on it.

It was a slug. An incredibly long-lasting slug, but still a slug.
>>
>>16362501
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. For some of these vehicles, it's more efficient to sell an entire transmission instead of one part.

The only other thing I've seen was selling parts from another transmission, but that's rare. They'd rather just sell the whole thing.

I'm sure SOME places might have the actual parts.

>>16362529
Yes, but was saving it for the end. Looks like that's what I'll do.

>>16362562
2001 Toyota Camry 2.2L L4
>>
Why did I like the handling on my subaru forester than the sedans I've driven? Aren't crossovers and mini suv's supposed to have worse handling in general?
>>
>>16362786
You might try these guys: http://www.daccoinc.com/catalogs
>>
>>16362786
Best bet would be to find out who manufactured the transmission and then see if they have a catalog.
>>
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Is Jeep a good vehicle?

Not looking to start a war. We all know the 1993 Renault Twingo is the best thing ever produced by humanity.

However, I'm wondering just overall. Someone once told me that if you're a mechanic and you see the Jeep logo on a vehicle that you should run away. It's always stuck with me.
>>
>>16362897
They're built a little funny, and are known to be unreliable. For our shop, the most dreadful cars that come in are all the German cars. No one wants to touch them, we just give them to a guy named German (legal fucking name) that specializes in German cars.
>>
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>>16362786
>>16362860
The door frame should have a tag on it like this. On the tag will be something that looks like A/TM: [XXXX]/A140E.

That's the model number of your transmission. If it's automatic the code will start with an A or U, manual will be S or E
>>
I have a buddy who I ribbed a bit for driving a dodge neon, a verifiable econo-shit box, he defends by saying he likes Mopar and that he likes the neon itself because 20 some years ago it was keeping up with and beating contemporary imports in its class.

Is this bullshit? I can't really call him out on it, I have no way to verify any of it. His car runs fine but ffs man
>>
I have a problem with car making a knocking noise whenever I turn in 1 direction. I don't think it does it in the other direction (hard to tell since exhaust noise is loud inside), but if it does then it only does it slightly/sometimes.

it seems to do it some times, and then other times it doesn't. usually when I haven't drove for a while it doesn't do it, then it starts doing once I've been driving for 10 minutes.. I don't know if it it that, or it just does it intermittently and by coincidence happens to do after drivign for a while... but i think it is after I've been driving for about 5-10 minutes.

>tl dr if u cant read 2 paragraphs
anyways the problem is that when I turn right, my right hand side makes a knocking towards the wheel area.
I can't see anything that it would be rubbing against, but if it was would there be something noticeable like a mark on the tire from where it has been? and I'm pretty sure the nuts aren't loose (i've had that happen in another car before and it was obvious that was the nuts), but i'll have to jack it up and see since I can't find my wheel nut

do bad axles/cv joints, or wheel bearings do it in only one direction?
>>
>>16363382
Look for rub marks on your sway bar and give your CV axles a shake.
>>
>>16363409
i did try moving the axle around a bit when i first noticed the noise to check if it had any play but couldn't feel anything.

could it still be that if they were firm?
could a buckled wheel also make a knocking noise? the wheels are pretty old and not too high quality. the roads around here are shit and my suspensions pretty stiff so they probably get some abuse on them. they're 3 peice rims as well. could the bolts that hold the lips come lose at all or something and cause something similar to loose wheel nuts?
>>
How often are you supposed to be topping off your brake fluid? It was low 2 months ago and now its low again? Do I have a leak or is that normal?
>>
>>16363563
Actually, dude, check your wheel bearings. Jack it up, and shake your tire from the top and bottom. Spin it around while you're there, too. If the brake rotor drags in a certain spot that may indicate a bad bearing.
Turn the wheel to the right and spin it again, looking and listening for the issue.
>>
>>16363619
That's not normal. You probably have a leaking wheel cylinder or a leaky master cylinder.
>>
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So I just made it home. I got the DMV to lower the $609 fees down to $325. The only things left is smog and insurance. I have no indications that this thing will fail smog. The check engine light is on but that will be handled Monday. (the vacuum line on the EGR valve is totally fucked OBD1 confirms) I have never actually gotten a legit smog in my life.

Should I risk it? Is there anything I should check for before trying?

I'm in the Recucklic of Calicucknia if you were gonna ask.
>>
I've got a very rusty body panel, and I bought another one to replace it, but it's in the wrong color of course. Do I just sand off the top layer down to the primer, and then send it off for respraying, or should I add another layer of primer?

Also, can you just do the primer layers yourself with a spraycan, or should I let the sprayer do them as well?
>>
>>16363717
Ask your sprayer.
>>
Going with a friend tomorrow to look at a '99 Mustang Vert. Is there anything that i should be particularly aware of when looking at it?
>>
>>16363701
'93 or '94?

>(the vacuum line on the EGR valve is totally fucked OBD1 confirms)
Code 71 lol. At least it was originally a Califuckya car.
Uh, well, knowing the 3E, the EGR tube in the head and intake manifold might be clogged. You can test it by starting the engine, and let it warm up (At least let the idle settle down to normal)
You then pop the vacuum hose off the EGR valve and suck on it. If the engine stumbles, the passages are open enough for the EGR to work, and the valve works.

One thing they might get you on is the oil smoke in the exhaust, unless you've re-ringed it and did a cylinder head job on it.

Please post a pic of your engine bay, they look to make sure it has the proper engine and all the emission controls are in place.
>>
>>16363786
>'93 or '94?
1994

>>16363786
>EGR tube in the head and intake manifold might be clogged
It's too late, dark, and cold to fuck with it, but it honestly looked like the tube has worn out and expanded to where it no longer makes a vacuum on the EGR.

>oil smoke in the exhaust
Yeah, you may be right there. Though I can't seem to get any smoke out of it after it's at a fair temp. Condensation? (I'm )

>Please post a pic of your engine bay
In the a.m., I am off to bed. It doesn't look like anything is missing. But a second pair of eyes will never hurt.

As long as I don't get marked as a gross polluter, nothing major happens, right?
Should I save the risk and get a """smog"""?
>>
>>16363826
I didn't finish that one line.

...Condensation? (I'm not retarded. Just a bit unknowledgeable about this.)


I'll call around and see if someone will run a pretest for me.
>>
>>16360848
Is it possible that hi-fi means logic 7, or possibly the owner had it installed aftermarket?

Seems to me you're over thinking things.
>>
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>>16358966
Opinions on this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Ford-Mustang-Coupe-/201753817556?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2ef976f1d4:g:HGgAAOSwA3dYTa6i&item=201753817556

Is it priced more or less?

That color is making my dick diamonds.
>>
>>16364312
That one would easily go for 2-3x more here in Norway.
Assuming it's in a good condition, I'd say it's worth it.
Then again, I've no idea how pricey it is compared to income or similar cars.
>>
>>16362897
I've driven a Wrangler for 10 years and have never had any problems with it. I don't know about the other cars though.
>>
am i retarded for paying 2k € for 1997 Civic when i could get for the same price Skoda, Seat or Golf (2000-2004) for the same price
>>
I want to take up wrenching. I've been learning on the internet, and now I want a project to try what I've learned on.
Someone I know is looking to sell an MR2 AW11 they found. I'm expecting it to need a minimum of:
>new front bumper
>new everything related to brakes
>engine swap (or possibly rebuild)
Would I be diving too far towards the deep end if I attempted to restore this, or would it be worth considering and having a closer look at?
>>
What's the best way to get the smells of cigarettes (from the previous owner) and diesel exhaust out of my truck's interior? Anything that's in there for a long drive ends up stinking. Short drives are fine, but I occasionally drive ~400 miles, and this is getting annoying.
I tried baking soda in the spring, and that helped a lot, but the smell is back with winter since I'm not airing it out regularly. Baking soda was a good short-term fix, so is there a way to make a baking soda spray of some kind, so I can get the best coverage of the interior?
Is there anything I can do for the long term? This truck probably won't be around for more than another year or two anyway, so I probably won't go for something expensive.
>>
how do I get vintage hub caps?

Need a full set.
>>
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I'd like stock RX-8 rims on my Mazda6, but 18" is too big. Where could I get it in 17" size? Who makes these rims? What is the model name?
>>
>>16364791
I might be talking out of my ass here, but if Mazda never offered them stock on the RX-8, I doubt they'd offer them aftermarket. These wheels are usually made by the OEMs themselves, so you could only look for smaller replicas, if that's a thing.
>>
>>16364675
Have the truck detailed, if they do it right they'll pull the carpet and steam clean it as well as steam clean the seats
>>
>>16364675
Besides a good professional interior clean, you can try some air freshener. Where I live there are some brands that sell scents specifically made to get rid of the smell of smoke.
Try that.
>>
>>16364481 engine rebuilds are typically expensive, and typically beyond a beginner, a direct (same engine) swap however you could be capable of given the right tools
>>
>>16364824
Neat, I didn't know they went that far with it. Thanks, I'll look into it. It's a total beater though (lots of holes and rust and patches), so I'm not sure how much good detailing would do beyond the steaming. Maybe I can just ask them about just addressing the smell.
>>16364835
Thanks, I'll check that out. I have a couple of air fresheners, but I haven't used them much. I'll try it out.

I'm also going to start cracking the windows at night during the winter like I do in summer.
>>
>>16363745
Yes, make sure you wear a condom when you two do the deed
>>
>>16364709
eBay
>>
>>16358966
Is shifting from higher to lower gears bad for you transmission / synchros? For example driving at 1200RPM in 5th then shifting to 2nd and revmatching it to about 4k?
>>
>>16364900
No, cars are only meant to be upshifted, once you reach the highest gear you are supposed to scrap the car and buy a new one
>>
>>16364812
I also wouldn't think they offered them in smaller size. As I know, but not sure, the 230HP has bigger brakes, so only 18 inch wheels fit on it, and the 190HP had stock 16.
But as you say, wheels are not made by Mazda itself, but by OEMs. Maybe this is a commercial product, like my current RH Alurad Snowline rims, so it must have a brand and product name. But this is not always true, I work at Johnson Electric and some of our products have a BMW label on it, not JE.
>>
>>16364919
Mazda was the OEM I was referring to. I meant it would be new to me that they wouldn't make it themselves, but again, I might be talking out of my ass here.
>>
>>16364910
I meant going from very low to very high RPM (without going over redline).
>>
>>16364941
No it's not bad, the wear on synchros and whatnot is absolutely negligible and you won't notice, especially if you don't make a habit out of skipping 3 gears at once every time you use the car
>>
>>16362417
just while we're getting it up and running, should we just use like a turkey baster to get as much out as we can and not worry about the what's still in there mixing with fresh fluids?
>>
>>16364929
No, OEMs are Bosch, Denso, Continental, Valeo, Delphi, ZF, Magna, BorgWarner, IHI, Aisin, Lear, etc.
>>
>>16364998
And that's where you're wrong. The ones you listed are (Tier 1) suppliers. OEMs are the Original Equipment Manufacturers, which actually build and sell the cars themselves.
>>
>>16365012
>Anoriginal equipment manufacturer(OEM) is a company that makes a part or subsystem that is used in another company's end product.

God it's like you can't even use google
>>
Can I put jack stands under the pinch welds? I'm just jacking up one corner of the car and I can't find a spot for them anywhere else.
>>
>>16365345
>>
>>16365323
Have you googled the jack points for your car?
>>
>>16365012
God I hope this is a shitty troll
>>
>>16364941
That's what engines are designed to do, if I'm not mistaken
>>
>>16365323
Nope, it will probably bend the metal, you have plenty of chassis and rigid structures that can sustain the weight when using jack stands.

Use the engine subframe or the part of the frame where lower control arms are bolted. Use a piece of wood between the jack and the metal if you are afraid of scratching something
>>
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>>16365369
Yeah they're on the pinch welds but the jack is like pic related so it goes around them. My jack stands would just hit the pinch welds straight on
>>
>>16365392
How do I know if it's a spot that won't break or bend?
>>
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>>16363786
>>16363826
>engine bay photo

So I was fucking with the valve. It looks like the hose is in fact too loose to make a proper vacuum. Pulling air from where the EGR solenoid would seem to do nothing. But connecting a good line directly to the valve does work. It seems to fail this https://j.gifs.com/LgBDg4.gif I'll take it off after I get back home Tuesday. Too bad my parts car is still involved in that active lawsuit. LKQ it is.

So I will:
-Clean/replace EGR
-Replace EGR's vacuum hoses
-test EGR solenoid

Thanks, mate. I'm that less retarded now.
>>
CSC TT250 worth it
>>
>>16365415
If you see big metal frames, then that's the place.
Don't put it under large parts of flat metal like the floor, that is just thin sheet metal that will bend like all fuck if you out a jack stand on them.

Look where the control arms of your suspension go, they are bolted to large frames, use those spots.
>>
>>16365592
Thanks man
>>
>>16365393
they make rubber pieces that go over the end of the jack stands. I would be wary of setting them metal on metal as >>16365392 suggested
>>
>>16365026
>>16365374

Interesting, research has concluded that appearently OEM is only used to describe the car manufacterer itself in the German language area, while internationally it describes the suppliers. Learning something new everyday.

Also, nice samefag.
>>
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>>16367028
>Also, nice samefag.

You fucking wish
>>
>>16367075
I guess /o/ is very religious today then.
>>
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I got £100,000 on a £10 Scratchcard.
I've sent it off to Camelot and to wait for my winnings I'm deciding on a nice car.

I'm so fucking tempted to get the Ford Mustang 2016 V8 version in U.K. With all the trimmings. Comes up to under £38,000.
Should I do it? Mustangs have been one of my favourite American cars.
>>
My seat belt does nothing. If I pull it quickly (like if I were to crash) it doesn't stop me. It also makes quite a loud noise when I move it. It still retracts fine. Does anyone know what is broken?
>>
>>16367120
civic for 100k
>>
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Looking to buy a wagon as my first car.

Should I get a 90's Volvo 240, or an 86' Cressida wagon?

are there any others I should consider?
>>
>>16367136
Apparently the lock mechanism is broken and something is loose in there.
Unfortunately, the lock mechanism is inside the thing that rewinds the belt, which means you will have to replace the whole belt if you want it to work again.
Also the pretensioner we may or may not be permanently locked to the rewind mechanism.

You could try to disassemble the mechanism to see what's broken and if you can repair it, otherwise a scrapyard will be a good source for that stuff.

Keep in mind the pretensioner is single use and may irreparably damage the belt when it goes off, so just make sure you don't pull it from a crashed car, assuming your pretensioner is not located in the buckle instead of the rewinder.
>>
>>16367120
> Mustang in Euro-land
you would be a god among men
>>
>>16364709
here you go, my dude

https://www.wheelvintiques.com/
>>
>>16358968
Somebody who didnt know what they were doing worked on it often.
>>
>>16360213
Also get your alignment checked. Not at pep boys.
>>
>>16365431
Everything looks to be in order, though they may bitch about that cap on the A/C line.
Damn, that's a clean engine.
>>
why do black people always listen to music really loud while in their cars?
>>
>>16367136
>>16367357
Go to a junkyard
>>
I realize this is a very specific and dumb question, but for a Suzuki samurai (or similar Jeep) they are 100% of the time 4wd right? Not selectable?

Some models seem to come with just rwd, I think, and no 4wd at all
>>
>>16368201
Negative.
They're selectable 2 or 4 wheel drive, with manually locking hubs
>>
>>16368201
>Some models seem to come with just rwd, I think, and no 4wd at all
I know there were 2 wheel drive Jeeps, i dunno about Samurai/Sidekicks though.
>>
>>16368215
So if I'm looking at one on Craigslist and it says 4wd I can assume it's 2wd, until i go into 4wd, correct?
>>
I've got one. I was driving today in the rain and couldn't stop in time when another car stopped in front of me, because my abs-less car locked its wheels even though I pumped my brakes. I ended up steering it into the curb to avoid damaging their car, but I scuffed up my wheel in the process.

It's the part where the wheel meets the inner tire, and it's not bent (I don't think) but it's scuffed up and scrapped. The tire is fine though. Is it safe to ignore that and not replace my wheel? I know very little about wheels.
>>
>>16368221
Yup. The Suzukis are rear wheel drive until you actually shift the transfer case and lock the front hubs.

AMC played with full-time four wheel drive in the '80s, so there might be some Jeeps that are 4wd only.
The easy way to tell is if there's a stick between the seats that says "2H-N-4H-4L". That's the transfer case shifter
>>
>>16358966
I just rammed my solid steel winch bumper into a tree and it has bent inwards bending into my front quarterpanel.
My left wheel (when slightly turning) now rubs against the corner of the metal bumper. That cannot be good for the rubber or the paint.

How can I fix this outside of a hydraulic press, jaws of life, or visiting a costly body store.
>>
I've got a 1997 civic dx that I'd like to use as a practice car to learn to wrench. Problem is I haven't got a place to work on it. I'm looking to rent some space for wrenching. How much space is reasonable?
>>
dropped a tran and on of the dowels got slightly bent but still in place. safe to just bend back, or replace?
>>
I have to change the spark plugs and thermostat on a 2012 Mini Cooper tomorrow and I've only worked on an old V8 before. Am I in for any surprises working on the Mini?
>>
I make ~25k a year with a possible promotion around the corner. What is my quickest path to around 300 horsepower in terms of saving for a new car. Currently driving a D-Series Civic so upgrading it isn't really viable for what I want.
>>
>>16368334
Did not mean to punctuate my question with a period kek
>>
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Do you guys like the color I painted my 240sx?
>>
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I just safety wired and red loctite'd my E36 M3's oil pump sprocket nut. How does my safety wiring look? It was a fucking pain in the ass to do. Left handed thread on the oil pump nut btw.
>>
>>16368418
I like it
>>
>>16364312
Looks badass.
>>
>>16368418
looks stock looks great.
>>
>>16368435
Im impressed
>>
>>16368201
That would be called awd instead of 4wd
>>
>>16368650
stupid question but what's the difference
>>
>>16368552
Sphere?
>>
>>16368435
Looks good m8, I would have locked the twisted part on the other spoke of the pulley to make damn sure it doesn't bend outwards as the pulley spins, but I don't think you will have any problems.
Just make sure it doesn't scrape on anything in the off chance that it manages to straighten out.
>>
I haven't found answer for this anywhere else.

Is it possible and okay to use pure coolant instead of a 50/50 mix of it and water? Would it help with cooling to use just coolant?
>>
>>16368655
4WD has a transfer case that allows the front axle to be engaged when additional traction is necessary and disengaged for 2WD operation during normal driving.

AWD generally has some sort of central differential instead and has all four wheels coupled to the drivetrain at all times.

Both are necessary because, much like the outer wheels vs. inner, the front wheels normally trace a wider arc than the rear wheels in a turn, and therefore roll further and make more rotations. With 4WD engaged, both front and rear axles are hard-connected through the transfer case, and so at least 1 wheel is forced to slip somewhat in a turn. Prolonged driving with 4WD engaged increases wear on tires and drivetrain components, and increases fuel consumption as well.

AWD cars add a third (sometimes mechanical, but often viscous) differential to allow the front axle to make more (or fewer) rotations than the rear axle, mitigating the problem.
>>
>>16368712
Nope, the main purpose of coolant is to keep the system clean and to raise the boiling point/lower the freezing point of water.
It still needs water to work.
A 100% concentration of coolant will do a bad job at cooling and a too aggressive job at cleaning

It won't break stuff if it's meant as an emergency solution and used for a short time if, for some reason, you find your system dry and only have pure coolant with you. But in those cases you are still better off using 100% water than 100% coolant
>>
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>>16368712
What you're referring to as "coolant" is actually antifreeze (mainly glycol, with anticorrosive additives). Coolant is generally a mixture of water and antifreeze.

>Is it possible and okay to use pure (antifreeze) instead of a 50/50 mix
It's possible, though a mixture is better for reasons I'll explain...

>Would it help with cooling to use just (antifreeze)?
Quite the opposite, actually. Water is a truly phenomenal coolant by itself, better than glycol or any mixture thereof (see chart: http://homepage.usask.ca/~llr130/physics/HeatCapcityOfAntiFreeze.html). But the problem with water is that it is prone to freezing in the cold, and it causes metal corrosion - both of which will fuck your shit up. So it's generally not advisable to use pure water as a coolant for any prolonged period of time, even if you live in a consistently warm climate.

So instead, we use a mixture of antifreeze and water for engine coolant. Even if you live in a warm area, it's recommended you use a minimum of 40% antifreeze to prevent corrosion of the cooling system.

And if you live in a cold area, it's recommended you use a maximum of 70% antifreeze in your coolant mixture. But why? You don't need as effective of coolant in the cold, so that's not the issue. And the more antifreeze, the lower the freezing point... right?

Wrong. 70/30 is the eutectic ratio of glycol to water. The freezing point of the mixture is actually LOWER here than at any other ratio, and adding more antifreeze will actually INCREASE the freezing temperature from here, not decrease it. AND you'd still be degrading the coolant's effectiveness as a coolant.

So unless you have no other choice, stick with the appropriate mixture of antifreeze and water.
>>
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Do any of you know what this white thing is on the back of this speedometer unit is? You can rotate it around. It's basically just a plug in a hole, but it's not electrical or functional for the unit itself. I really wonder why a car manufacturer would specifically add this. It's from a Toyota Starlet P9. Picture might be upside down.
>>
>>16358966
Hey /o/, my 03' Honda element has bought the farm and I'm looking to get a new car.
How's the Nissan Xterra? I really don't know much about cars.
>>
>>16368824
Looks like a support for a wire loom or something
>>
I just want a car, my first car. Everyone I talk to acts like getting a used car for $2k or less is crazy. Is it really impossible to get something that won't break within the year?
>>
>>16369434
There's nothing wrong with getting a sub-$2000 car but you just have to change out the alternator, water pump, and timing belt right away. Maybe the radiator, too if it's 20 years old.
Timing belt is critical, because you have no clue when it was done last, and a lot of engines are interference, meaning if the belt breaks the piston will destroy the valves.
A lot of the time the water pump is either driven by the timing belt or requires you take the belt off to change it, so it's prudent you do that at the same time as the timing belt.

The alternator is a lot less critical, but buy a spare from a junkyard and run the existing one until it roaches.
>>
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I cracked this black tube in a fender bender. What's it called? Still drives OK
>>
>>16369464
>Says he should replacing alternator because of age
>suggest picking it up at a junkyard with even less information about its age

Solid advice there m8
>>
>>16359450
tfw also canadian but too young and poor to own my dream car until it's 30k (usd)
>>
>>16369881
If you look around you can usually find a reman one that's not too old.
>>
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>>16369864
not sure if bait

but I'll bald-face it: yeah, that's on the assend of the air-cleaner, right on the throttle body. Means unclean air is sneaking into the cylinder and your intake will look like pic related if unchecked
>>
>>16369942
>tfw even the shittiest of your dream cars has jumped in price
>tfw boomers think an 80s corolla is worth 15k
>>
>>16369434
Buy a civic. Shut the fuck up.
>>
>>16370021
No I'm legit. Been like this a few months. How much to fix?
>>
Can I get some general advice on how to make a car last a really long time? I change the oil and filter every 5,000 miles, as well as flushing fluids as recommended by the manufacturer. What else can I do to make my car last forever?
>>
>>16370094
Go to a junkyard, get a new one for like $5
>>
What does /o/ think of the honda element?
>>
I just got an old rx7, 1982 with a newish 12a engine in it. Be real with me, how much power can I squeeze out of the 12a if I get a good header, port, exhaust, fuel pump/regulator, carb, cat, etc?

Better to put that money towards the 13b and a swap? Can I eventually put a turbo on the 12a? I've heard it told that the 12a can't (or is hesitant to) take boost.
>>
>>16367216

bump
>>
where does all the black shit in diesel oil get in from?
>>
>>16370802
That's soot from combustion gases getting past the rings.
>>
>>16370814
the oil in my diesel car looks like shit all the time, within 5 minutes of changing oil it's black again.
is this normal?
>>
>>16370833
totally normal mang
nothing to worry about
>>
>>16370833
Yes it's normal
>>
>>16360535
I think the late 90's crown vic fan is the one I'm thinking about but it has its own shroud and blows plenty of air.
>>
>>16361381
If you don't have the tools/knowledge or someone who does I wouldn't attempt it. I had to press my pinion gear out (shouldn't have to, just hammer it out) and ended up having to take my entire rear end out.
>>
>>16362897
I've had my 2016 jeep patriot for about 5 months now. Having a problem with the seat belt sensor on the passenger side. Keeps saying were not buckled in. Also have issues with the Bluetooth randomly disconnecting. Other than that it's pretty good.
>>
>>16363619
It also goes down with normal use but I don't think it would go low enough in two months to tell. Check inside the wheels for leaks. If nothing there, remove you master cylinder and look into the brake booster for fluid there.
>>
Anyone with a gen 3 sbc running speed engineering lt headers? They seem nice and aren't too expensive. Plus they have specific swap headers that'll work with my car
>>
>>16368227
As long as it's not leaking there. Spray some soapy water on it to check.
>>
>>16370097
Full tear down rebuild every 150,000 miles.
>>
>>16371513
>>16371485
>>16371460

Using a single post was too hard?
>>
Looking for ~10k car, relatively new, lets say 2005+, sporty, coupe or hatch. Fiesta ST and VW Sirocco something else that might be interesting?
>>
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What are these wires for because I just broke them trying to get my seat belt unstuck.

I have a 2012 ford fiesta.
>>
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Fuckin' Leaf here. I ran a red on the way home tonight. I was doing the speed limit, but said limit was 60, so I wasn't accounting well enough for the road conditions. Light turned yellow just under a block ahead. I put the brakes on (didn't slam, pushed just enough to keep from locking up) and geared the fuck down, but the patch of road leading to two intersection was so icy it wasn't enough. I wound up skidding over the stop-line and had no other choice but to keep going.

Didn't see a flash, but what are the odds there was a camera after all?
>>
Took my shitbox to the wash to spray off all the salt and dirt. It's 10 pm now and about 35 degrees, and it's supposed to get slightly below freezing. Am I going to run into any problems not drying the car?
>>
I have a set of wheels that fit my car, but only barely. Suspension is coilovers; PO had it riding on shit lowering coils and I changed them out for some decent ones. They fit in the fender fine, I can go lock to lock, sit on jacks with full droop, or sit on the ground with full load just fine with no rubbing. The problem is that the tire is only a few mm away from the strut and the actual rim of the wheels just barely clear the strut by hugging around the bottom locking nut of the coil's body so that it's barely clearing beside and above it. Do I need to worry about these coming into contact somehow? I've considered some 3mm or 5mm spacers to push them out, but I'm still paranoid of the stress they put onto the wheel bearings. Are spacers of this size really a problem? Would like to put some snow tires onto these wheels for a winter set.
>>
Is $10k a good starting point for getting into SCCA rally, including the cost of a FWD hatch? Here's the breakdown of my expected costs so far:
>shitbox: <$5k
>3-6" lift $1-2k
>tires & wheels <$1k
>tranny: $2k
>optional: crate engine for up to $3k
Wouldn't need to worry about labor or storage because I can hopefully get my old HS auto tech class to help install things and repair & store it.
>>
when i play music in my car the balance changes randomly, itll play out of both then left only then right etc.
Is this the wiring or the head unit?
>>
>>16373614
The easiest thing to do is to pull out the head unit and check the connectors behind it.

Also checking for continuity (is this the right English term? I mean when you use the beeping function of a multimeter to check if a wire is intact by touching both ends with the probes) while jiggling the wires a bit between the unit and the speakers is a good test to see if wires are broken or shorting somewhere
>>
>>16372167
What were they connected to? The seat belt?

Probably the seat belt idiot light
>>
>>16372484
No
>>
>>16372575
It only be an issue if you have a linkage failure and the wheel goes out of camber
>>
Hey /o/, I'm not really car savvy but I'm in the market to get a car. Preferably an SUV. I'm leaning towards a pre 2005 Xterra, is that a good idea?
>>
Does it make sense to have two cars:

One for leisure and one for commuting?
>>
>>16371736
Was reading and answering as I went along. So ya I guess so
>>
I was driving my dad's 2006 VW TDI Jetta yesterday, and noticed that smoke was coming out of the hood. I pulled over and saw that it was coming from the turbo manifold, but the car seemed to be running fine. There were no warning lights on the dash, and the temp was fine. I figured some oil probably burned off of it, but how could this have happened, is this something I need to worry about. I also noticed that it only happens when you go over 2.5k rpm in a low gear if that helps.
>>
This might be a stupid question for /o/ but whatever, i'm not into cars much.
When im braking in snow, often, theres this awful metallic grinding noise and my pedal kinds of rattle a little bit. It does on both my cars.
1) Is it my ABS system?
2) Is it bad for my brakes?
It only does it when i'm braking too hard.
>>
>>16375166
Yes it's abs
>>
>>16374611
Why are you asking?
>>
>>16374595
Early xterras had some issues, iirc but were solved in later model years
>>
>>16375166
It's the ABS working as intended.
The rattling you see is actually the ABS pump that cuts the pressure feed to the brakes several times a second to try and keep the wheels spinning.
It means you are braking too hard for the low grip you have.

Nothing to be worried about
>>
>>16374703
Can someone pls answer this question.
>>
>>16358966
My 86 is suddenly making a very worrying scraping noise when i steer hard to the right, but not to the left, it sounds like metal scraping on metal. Any idea what it could be? all the mechanics where I live are closed until tuesday :(
>>
>>16375937
Is the noise increasing with speed? If yes, it could be a bad CV joint
>>
>>16376206

Ive only managed to test at low speed since at high speed turning the wheel too far would run me off the road.
>>
>>16375697
Turbos are supposed to get hot, might be worth mentioning at the next time it's in the shop thought
>>
>>16376253
I know that, but I want to know why that fluid is getting out? I don't want to be jewed by a mechanic either, so I'm not taking it to a shop. Thanks for the input though.
>>
>>16376565
Without knowing the source of the leak, its hard to say why, could have been condensation for all we know, since you didn't tell us color the fluid or the smell it made.
>>
>>16376577
I couldn't see fluid but I could tell that's what it was, it smelt like a burnt up clutch.
>>
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Retarded question:

My newly acquired truck is 4x4. It has a 2wd/4Hi button and a 4Lo option.

Doest that mean that when neither are engaged, my truck is 2 wheel driven?

Toyota tundra 2001 btw
>>
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Hello /o/
I bought a manual car, my first, and i'm reading up on how to avoid excessive wear on the transmission. Problem is, english isn't my first language and I don't understand what I shouldn't be doing. They say, I shouldn't "ride it". What do you actually do, with your feets, to "ride" a clutch?
Is it bad to use only the clutch to move forward at low speed, without touching the gas?
Is it bad to slowly release it when downshifting, to brake?
If I need to start up(go foward) quickly, can you give it gas with the clutch on the "friction point".
I can't seem to find a simple do and don't on manual transmission, enlighten me please.
>>
>window motor spins counterclockwise and clockwise when connected to car battery
>window motor connector reads +12 V and -12 V when measured using a voltmeter, depending on whether the button is pushed up or down
>window motor connected to the connector spins only in one direction

What could be the problem?
>>
>>16376964
Forgot to mention the model, oops
2009 Hyundai Elantra, automatic
>>
>>16376891
Also, is this BS, because it sounds like BS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlS6DF3NjJE
>>
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Went to Midas for an oil change, and to check a problem with my car constantly drifting left. They said it was because my tires needed to be balanced.

They said that in addition to the tire balance (32$), that the oil pan and gasket were leaking. I observed this myself. To fix, it's 422$.

Money is tight. Is it worth fixing the leak? It's only a tiny trickle.

Total scrub, no idea about cars. I'm here for honest advice.
>>
>>16376891
>What do you actually do, with your feets, to "ride" a clutch?
'riding' the clutch means to keep your foot on the clutch pedal all the time. Your left foot should not be on any pedal unless you're starting out or shifting.

>Is it bad to use only the clutch to move forward at low speed, without touching the gas?
If you're constantly on and off of it, yeah that's kinda bad. But if you just let the clutch out at idle and creep along that way, it's fine.

>Is it bad to slowly release it when downshifting, to brake?
Yes that's bad. Learn how to rev-match, or just put it in neutral and use the actual brakes.

>If I need to start up(go foward) quickly, can you give it gas with the clutch on the "friction point".
That's what most people do. Practice revving the engine up ~50 RPM above idle and letting the clutch out there, while trying to not let the RPM go below idle.
>>
>>16377163
Not worth it, and also it would cost you 10 dollars for the gasket and it's an easy fix.
>>
>>16377180
So,
>clutch+gear1+brake at red light is a no go
>friction point to creep in traffic is a no go
>"compression" to slow down is a no go
Shit, looks like i've got to re-learn stick all over.
>>
>got an 06 corolla in 05
>still have it
>145k miles
>runs perfect
>getting fucking bored of it
>want an a4 really fucking bad
>used from 05-07 with ~100k miles go for under 7k usd
>would take a hit on gas milage, fucking insurance would probably go up too

should i do it or no? maybe when my corolla hits 200k start looking around?
>>
>>16377191
So you would say it is not urgent? I'm happy to let it go, but I don't it to hurt me later.
>>
>>16377006

Double clutching up is kinda bullshit, but double clutching down is the best way to rev-match

>Clutch pedal down
>Shift to neutral
>Clutch pedal up
>Match engine rev to what it would be in the next lower gear
>Clutch pedal down
>Shift to lower gear
>Clutch pedal up

It's much, MUCH better for the synchronizer rings.

>>16377163
Unless it's pissing oil out, it can be left alone for a while.
>>
>>16377198
Your clutch disk is basically brake pad material, when you are slipping the clutch then you're wearing down that material. But with the clutch fully engaged there is no slippage and the clutch material doesn't wear away. It also helps keep you're flywheel from heating up and things like that because they are slipping so there's no friction so there's no heat and excessive wear. Oh and you'll wear out your throw out bearing slipping the clutch all the time to and that is usually as complicated as a clutch to replace. So you can learn to wrench or get money to replace the parts that will wear out faster by driving like that. And you can do "compression" braking if you mean engine braking, using the engine as an air pump(no gas full vacuum) to slow the car down through the drivetrain. But you shouldn't slip the clutch to do that, you have to learn how to downshift and rev match to engine brake real smooth.
>>
>>16377223
Nope, just a drip.

My wallet thanks you.
>>
>>16377198
Scroll down a bit if you only want to learn about clutches
>>
>>16377260
What do you mean by slipping? Is it when youre giving it gas when the clutch isn't fully depressed, while in higher gear?
>>16377276
???
>>
>>16376964
Is there another switch connected to it?
As in, is the motor under test is on the passenger side so it has both the passenger and drivers side switch hooked up to it?
>>
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Is there a bolt pattern you're meant to follow when reinstalling a oil pan? And how important is it? I saw this diy after putting the pan back on my E36 and realized I made a few mistakes.

>Did not go in a set pattern, just kinda tightened them down as I could randomly

>Shifted gasket and pan a few times trying to get them to mate originally, possibly scraping off some silicone (I did put a layer on both sides of the gasket at least with my fingers)

>Possibly using too much silicone, I am however going to let it dry for a while (used Permatex Ultra Black)

So how fucked am I? I'm a little worried because this job was just such a fucking bitch to do I don't ever wanna redo it ever again (rack, PS pump, front suspension, and front subframe had to come off).
>>
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>>16377485
Forgot if it's any help, the oil pan gasket is metal on the outside with a rubber edge towards the inside to seal
>>
>>16377289
Yes, there are two switches.

There's a driver and passenger switch, and when this problem first started, the driver's side switch wouldn't allow the window to move up, but the passenger switch did.

Now, both switches don't allow the window to move up.
>>
>>16377287
>What do you mean by slipping?
The clutch is designed to slip when it's used.

You have to think about what the clutch does and where it is installed.
The clutch is sandwiched between the engine (which runs at its own speed) and the gearbox (which runs at a multiple of wheel speed when in gear).
When your car is stopped and idling, you have zero wheel speed and like 700RPM of engine speed. if you were to engage first gear and release the clutch fast, you would basically force the two speeds to equalise and since this is happening too quickly and the car has much more inertia than your engine, the engine speed drops a lot, the wheel speed raises a tiny bit and the result is the engine stopping and the car lunging a bit forward.
Also remember, the clutch disk is solid with the gearbox, while the clutch plate is solid with the engine.

By releasing the clutch like you normally do instead, you let the clutch plate (spinning at engine speed) slowly press the the disk (spinning at wheel speed) against the flywheel (spinning at engine speed). By doing this, the clutch disk is literally slipping between these two surfaces and allows the gearbox (and the wheels) to accelerate without dropping the engine speed too much.
Once the clutch pedal is completely released, the clutch pack becomes solid and both the engine and the gearbox spin at the same speed.

Every time you operate your clutch, there is slippage involved. It's like this by design and it's perfectly normal.
Anyway, the longer you use the clutch and the bigger the speed difference between the two things, the faster the clutch will wear, moving from a standstill usually wears the clutch the most.
>>
>>16358966
So I have a 1995 Buick in amazing shape, but I have one damn problem with it. The fucking thing won't start on the rare occasion. All electronics work so the battery clearly has a charge, and the lights don't dim so that's fine. Terminals are tight and clean. It just won't click sometimes, no starter click, no noise, nothing but a small hum while the key is held.

The car has a brand new starter in it, not even a month old. I've taken it to the mechanics shop a few times, each time they tell me they fixed it (no charge since they are mistaken each time) and the damn thing is still being iffy. So far they have changed the battery, changer the battery terminals and wires, installed a new starter (the old one did go, so they thought that may have been the problem from the get go), and every single connection has been double checked. What are they/I missing?

All I can think of is that the Ignition switch is faulty due to the lack of the starter making noise, but I feel like this shop would've checked that as one of the first things since it's such a common issue in older cars.
>>
>>16377752
Start looking at the control module if there is one, and the drivers side switch if there's no module.
>>
>>16377764
Have you checked the terminals on the ignition key?
That's if it goes fuse>ignition>starter
>>
So I got my first car, a hand-me-down Mazda 323 IV BG
There's a problem with the passenger side mirror and the trunk lock.
Two questions: are all BG generation door mirrors the same regardless of model type(sedan/hatchback)?
Second, how would I go about replacing the trunk lock? do I go to a locksmith or something?
>>
>>16377999
>are all BG generation door mirrors the same regardless of model type(sedan/hatchback)?
You can ask a Mazda dealer for the part numbers, if they match, then they are good for both. Or you can go to a scrapyard and look at them.
However, they most probably are identical between the two version.

>Second, how would I go about replacing the trunk lock? do I go to a locksmith or something?

Is the trunk closed and can't be opened? In that case, you should try to reach the trunk from the inside and try to manually force the mechanism to open. Once it's open it's just a matter of replacing a part with a new one.

Just remember that if you change the key barrel, you'll need a new key so you will always have to travel will two keys unless you want to also replace every other key barrel in the car with the new types
>>
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>>16378033
>if they match, then they are good for both
is pic related what I'm looking for as far as part number goes? (not my pic btw)
>Just remember that if you change the key barrel, you'll need a new key so you will always have to travel will two keys unless you want to also replace every other key barrel in the car with the new types
Yes the trunk can be popped from the inside. I thought it might be possible to get it replaced with the same lock as the rest of the car.
I guess I'll have to do it separately.
>>
>>16358966
I have a 1KR-FE powerded car, soon I´ll hit 90.000km.
Should I go to a shop and get the valve clearance checked or should I do it myself?
>>
>>16378072
That's a fairly modern engine. Doesn't it have self-adjusting hydraulic lifters?
>>
>>16376887
Yes, and you should keep it in 2wd, unless you're not on pavement. Using 4wd on pavement or any surface that won't give under traction will bind the powertrain and damage it.
>>
>>16378089
Nope, it hasn´t.
The cups usualy last about as long as hydraulic lifters and are better for high RPM use.
They just need to be checked every 90.000km.
>>
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>>16378101
This is how the valvetrain looks like in a engine like mine.
>>
>>16378101
ohhh shit mechanical buckets.

Unless you have the tools or feel like taking the camshafts off, you should take it to a shop
>>
>>16378101
>>16378144
I mean to actually change the clearance.

Checking it is another matter. That just requires feeler gauges and a new valve cover gasket. A little bit of silicone or urethane sealant, too.
>>
>>16378144
>>16378154
The feel to measure it schouldn´t be that expensive, I have all other tools to check it.
>>
>>16378159
Not at all. A set of feeler gauges are about $12 at an auto parts store here in Burgerland.
>>
>>16378046
>is pic related what I'm looking for as far as part number goes?
Can't really see much in the picture as I am on mobile, but that looks more like mandatory homologation stuff.
Part numbers are usually hidden in places you can't see from the outside, so in your pic it would probably be behind the mirror glass or inside the part that is bolted to the door.
Anyway, you don't really need to know your part number. Just call a Mazda dealer, give them your VIN and they will tell you your part number, then you can ask them to search for a hatchback/sedan of the same year and see if the numbers match.
>Yes the trunk can be popped from the inside. I thought it might be possible to get it replaced with the same lock as the rest of the car.
It depends on what is broken.
If it's just a linkage between the barrel and the lock, then you can just replace that and be done with it, if the barrel itself is broken then I'm afraid you'll have to live with two keys.
Sometimes they sell the barrel housings (which may or may not contain mechanisms that can break) separate from the barrel itself so you can transfer your barrel to the new part.
Again, it depends on what's wrong with your lock
>>
>>16378159
Measuring is easy, but modifying the clearance is a whole different story.
You need to remove the camshaft and install spacers under the buckets
>>
>>16378205
I know, but this engine requires new buckets if the clearance is wrong.
But they tend to last much longer and just need to be checked.
>>
>>16378195
All right thanks. I'll try to figure it out.
>>
>>16361418
IMO
>>
>>16377764
Typically mechanics solve problems by fixing the easiest shit first, then hard shit, getting to the ignition tumbler can be a bitch to do.
>>
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I wanted to buy this guy's rx7 but two female friends I showed it to both reacted with "ew, what is that?"

Fuck man what's the point of a sports car if it isn't a pussy grabber?
>>
>>16378323
>what's the point of a sports car
To enjoy?
>>
>>16378323
KYS!
>>
>>16378369
the term is AN HERO you garbage fucking newfag reddit failed abortion.
>>
>>16378354
I'd enjoy working on it and driving it but there's really no point if the only people who appreciate it are me and a very small group of initial d fetishists.

I'm just not into mustangs, maybe I can find a camaro or something, for a wider appeal.
>>
>>16378376
KYS and being an hero are both used here, newfag.
>>
>>16378383
then get a third gen
>>
>>16378383
Dude if you want to buy it, then do so. Who gives a shit if no one else likes it. All that matters is if YOU like it.
>>
>>16378396
Maybe, but those cost a pretty good chunk change. One of the draws for this 12a is the low price tag for a moving car.
>>16378398
Maybe but I'd buy it for 2k and if I wanted it to go fast that's another 3k, just for female types to giggle while they hop in an autotragic 2010 dodge charger or v6 shitstang. The rx7 deserves better that that
>>
How hard is it to install new struts? My car has ~120k miles on it and the front struts are starting to go
>>
my truck doesn't blow warm air when its idling, but other than that, the AC/Heating works perfectly fine

what could be the cause?
>>
>>16378414
Running turd gens are only a few grand and with a loud v8 have decent normie appeal, if that's what you're looking for
>>
>>16378505
How long do you drive it before you tested it?
Wow cold ist it where you live?

My first guess is a bad thermostat.
>>
>>16378507
Oh, I get it now, 3rd gen camaro, not 3rd gen rx7. Actually yeah, the 3rd gen camaro would be neat, and look suitably cool
>>
>>16378518
I drive it everyday
Its Canada

I don't think its a bad thermostat tbqh, when it idles, the air is lukewarm, even at the warmest setting, but it warms up pretty good once I drive it

My roommates' truck had a bad thermostat and the hot air didn't work at all
>>
>>16378539
You misunderstood my question, how long are the distances you drive it?
Does the engine get to operating temperature?

The thermostat doesn´t have to fail completely to make trouble.
>>
>>16378539
Does the blower motor run?
Does air only come out of the defroster vents?
>>
>>16378550
oh
once I drive it for 20 seconds, hot air comes out
not really, even when its fucking cold as tits, and I only idle it for 1-2 min, once I drive it for a min or so, the air its hot. til then its just lukewarm

>>16378553
yes
air comes out of everywhere
as far as I can tell the system is working fine
except for the hot air on idle
>>
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>>16378497
Not hard, just time consuming if your front struts are of the pic related type (strut inserted into a hole in the hub carrier, a single bolt on the back/side of the carrier, squeezing the hole around the strut) as opposed to the more conventional 2-bolt-on-the-front type.

It may take a good amount of serious hammering and lots of lube to take those fuckers out after years of rust and deposits.

Remember to have your alignment checked after you change struts, as it will most likely go all over the place
>>
>>16378586
Dude that's completely normal.
No engine heat means no cab heat. The cab heat uses engine coolant to warm the air.
>>
>>16378586
After wich driven distance did this happen?
If this happens under 5 km or ~3 miles there is nothing wrong with your car, it just heats its engine to operating temperature.
>>
>>16378605
>>16378607
well hurrr, I'll just slowly and shamefully turn 360 degrees and walk away.....

thanks guys
>>
>>16378497
>>16378594
Strut as a complete unit, with the spring and strut bearing on it? Not hard.

Changing only the shock part of the strut, hard.

>>16378610
lol that's what this thread is for.
>>
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I have a 1993 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 and can't figure out these parts. Help?
Thanks.
>>
>>16378610
Everyone started as the dumb Idiot without any knowledge, if you don´t ask you stay like that.
>>
>>16378615
left could be a relay, right seems to be a switch/button
>>
Newest Thread - >>16378625

Newest Thread - >>16378625

Newest Thread - >>16378625

Newest Thread - >>16378625

Newest Thread - >>16378625
>>
>>16378626
Thanks for the help.
Thread posts: 330
Thread images: 49


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