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Okay lets see what you faggots really know about cars I have

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Thread replies: 13
Thread images: 2

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Okay lets see what you faggots really know about cars

I have a 1984 Nissan MK Patrol and it was having trouble getting into gears, clutch pedal bottomed out and I had to double clutch and all sorts to get it into gear.

The slave and master were both worn so I have replaced both of them with brand new cylinders and flushed it a number of times to remove all air.

The car after starting now wont go into any gears at all. Nowhere near. The pedal also now feels extremely soft.

What is happening?
>>
>>16343408
Check vacuum lines on clutch master
>>
>>16343408
More pics of your MK faggot. Also, does it make a bit of noise when you depress and hold the clutch pedal?
>>
>>16343408
You haven't bled it through enough yet
>>
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>>16343422
No noise, nothing that I can hear anyway. Really doesn't feel like it's disengaging at all and it's stuck in neutral, can't get into 1-5 at all and it grinds trying to get into reverse. Again pedal is soft as fuck. But I've bled it so much I bleed it again and see no air in the line etc to confirm. You know how the slave pushes the rod out which is Attached to the clutch lever? it stays out it doesn't push the rod back into the slave

Pic related
>>
>>16343436
yeah the rod attached to the clutch lever (that the slave pushes out) appears to be staying pushed out it doesnt reset and push the rod back in without me pulling it in by hand. like the clutch is already disengaged but i would be able to select a gear if so, correct?

or has bleeding it 10 times still have air in there somewhere? fml
>>
>>16343436
I was thinking maybe a thrust bearing, but it sounds as though it's possibly either a faulty new master cylinder (it does happen) or incorrect installation/filling process. Hard to make that call without seeing the car.

Good to see the thing still has what would be the original six digit West Aus licence plate.
>>
should i clamp the slave rod in so its not pushed out during bleeding?
>>
>>16343450
Shouldn't really make a difference but give it a go if possible. Won't do any harm.
>>
>>16343443
maybe still air somewhere... I'd completely remove the master cylinder again and see if you can bleed it up on its own (just cover the outlet with your finger) then refit, and try bleeding again.
You might find you're doing something wrong, and you need to leave it over night and get back to it to see a new perspective.
>>
>>16343462
Apparently if I clamp it, the pedal should go hard and not be able to be pressed - if it can be pressed in it means the new master I installed failed or some shit.

So says a wrx forum lmao

>>16343464
I think you're right m9 I've had enough anyway 10 hours and 4 trips to 5 different car shops today is my limit
>>
>>16343473
>Apparently if I clamp it, the pedal should go hard and not be able to be pressed - if it can be pressed in it means the new master I installed failed or some shit.
Actually, yeah. That makes sense.
Have yourself a beer and wind down. It'll be there waiting for ya tomorrow ;)
>>
By flush it do you mean bled it to get the air out?

If not, you should actually change the hydraulic fluid.

Brake lines disintegrate internally, and bits of rubber gets into the fluid.
If the fluid is old, a piece of shit might get stuck in one of your lines.

It happened to me.
I thought it was the master cylinder, so I replaced it and the pedal still felt soft. Turns out it was just 30 year old gunk.
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 2


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