How common is it for a 10+ year old car (2005) to run well? What

>>15838055
All depends on the car and who owned it, but finding a solid good running car from 2005 shouldn't be hard at all.


"runs well" is a relative term and I wouldn't trust people on craiglist who say their car "runs well". To me it means, no weird noises, engines idles and revs smooth, shifts smooth.

>>15838055
I have an opel astra from 2000 that run quite ok
Cel engine light because of the sensor of the egr
Ac doesn't work
Without that it would be flawless
Suspension is way too soft but that kinda ok

>>15838055
My shitbox is 20yo :

>dead tachometer
>changed neiman once (before it was mine)
>...
>???

And abuse from previous owners :

>dented and scratched on every single possible spot
>slightly bend rear axle
>gearbox leaks oil (like you have to add some every few YEARS) because plug was overtorqued

I guess it depends on build quality and who owns it. Mom's Agila needs heavy repair every year and I can't get her to sell it.

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>>15838135
My shitbox is also 20 years old.
It has an ABS light (issue with about 80% of the units, amazed it lasted this long). And a scraped engine liner from taking bumps too hektikly from the previous owner, oh, and the speakers are blown.
That's it.
As anon said, depends on the car, depends on who owned it.
1995 Acura Integra GS-R here. Still amazed I found an unmolested one with under 120k on the clock.

>>15838055
It could run as well as it did when it was new. My 15 year old shitbox does.

>>15838167
I was thinking 20yo Honda for my next shitbox if I crash mine. What about maintenance, is everything accessible and well engineered in your opinion ?

>>15838250
Not him but my civic is 15 years old

It's needed: sway bar links, control arm bushings, strut top mounts, AC compressor, one window regulator, and steering rack. $2500 of work since 2014.

It's pretty much perfect now though and most of those are wear items.

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>850€
>crashed twice
>boot dented
>rear bumper scratched a little
>slight surface rust in one door corner
>driver's seat a little worn, got one button missing on ac panel
>no CEL, no errors, no issues reported in VAG-COM
>working AC
>nothing's broken on mechanical or electrical side
>freshly polished and waxed (not in pic)
>270kkm

Taking care of a car is not hard or expensive. rn got something clunking in the right front, I'll get around to it when I can, but those clunks are hard to find so I'll wait 'till it gets a bit louder so I can identify the loose part.

But yeah, finding a good condition 20year old car is not hard as long as you don't buy from poorfags, young people or niggers. That being said, I riced the front myself after I crashed it, couldn't find an exact color-matched bonnet and didn't want to pay 250€ for oem headlights so I ended up with what you see. I'm "ok" with it.

>>15838135
Dude, just wrap some teflon tape on the transmission plug. That will fix your slow leak instantaneously.


On the thread topic, my tracker is 18 years old and only stuff it's needed in the last 10 years other than fluid changes is new tires, AC temp switch, radiator hoses, radio/speakers, O2 sensor, EGR solenoid, speedo cable, headlight bulb, tail light bulb, clutch, driver side window regulator, sparkplugs and a distributor rotor. Got in one wreck where I wasn't at fault that the at fault driver's insurance payout paid the value of the whole car. Cut a new rear quarter out of the junkyard for $70, gave the panel a respray and blend and been driving it basically for free since then.

So mechanical failure wise, pretty minimal stuff really, other than the clutch. Clutch is a lifetime warranty too so if it dies again I get that for free, minus labor.

Currently no CEL, everything works including AC, sounds beautiful, interior is nice and clean. Only has one tiny oil leak at the front cam seal which is actually less bad than when I bought it in 2006. Leaks half a quart about every 1000 miles.

>>15838055
>How common is it for a 10+ year old car (2005) to run well?
As others said, the two main factors depends on either the particular model of car or the owner. It doesn't matter how good the car is if the owner treats it roughly. And some cars were problematic because that was the first year of release for that car or engine type and thus some bugs appeared.

It's probably good if a car looks well cared for with its original paint immaculate like it was new, the owner looks like a reasonably neat person, and the owner has a sheaf of maintenance records for it. Another plus if the logbook of gasoline fillups and mileages are noted.

I had a 1997 2.4L DOHC LD9 automatic trans Cavalier sedan (cayenne metallic red) which looked pristine in its original paint. Certainly plenty of miles but it still ran fairly smoothly although not as smooth as when it was new. LD9 ate one water pump which was lucky it was only one, but as I understand it, many cars need a water pump replacement in their lifetime. I would say in terms of a used car, it ran very good. It had no creaks, dash noises, or suspension sounds. The auto shifted smoothly & engine had no hiccups. I swapped out the original oil & filter at 100 miles.

The city mileage had dropped from its original 24.1 to be 22.4 so something was certainly wearing down. Every gas fill was tracked from day one when it was purchased new by me from the dealer. On the gas log timeline all oil changes were noted and even fuel additive treatments. That way, any MPG changes could be noted based upon maint or fuel changes. Yes, fuel changes. The brand and type (premium or regular) was also noted in the log. It really was complete.

I gave the car away. I simply wanted a new car with modern bells & whistles and bluetooth for the phone. So, April 1997 to Nov 2015 and still running fine. Too bad its KBB value was nil due to all the other poorly maintained Cavs dragging the value down.

16 year old Ranger:
Some little thing causes the CEL to be on but it runs fine and starts easily, shifts smoothly, etc.
27 year old Mustang:
almost everything electronic works, needed to replace power mirror switch and pass side door lock has to be done by hand. Minor oil consumption. Runs a little hotter than I'd like with A/C running and lights on but still acceptable.

I got a 2003, and it's running just fine. Relatively low miles for its age (about 130k), but really all it takes to keep them nice is an owner who understands: Oil, regular mantainance, and driving sensibly extends a vehicles life exponentially. My old man has a 2004 F150 Lariat he bought from the dealership, and has driven t hat thing cross country nearly ever year in addition to his daily work commute, and he's still got it running strong because he never slacked off on mantainance.

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>>15840996
You reminded me of my old 97 Z24 Cavalier. 2.4L DOHC with the 5speed getrag... Great little car, hit 180,000 miles and it still revved smoothly, idled smooth, shifted fine, everything was good.. Except for the waterpump dying at 180k and also the rack and pinion(?). Didn't have the time to diagnose the rack and pinion but I found an old recall that said a little valve would get stuck closed causing powersteering to work turning left, but not right.

Anyway, I loved that little car and you made me miss it :(

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>>15841225
Shit, I miss my first car. 97 SC-1 with the 5 speed (and I think it had a 2.4 too, but I can't remember). It didn't have ABS, and it weighed nothing, so it was all the right mix of dangerous and fun. Ran like a champ, then I stupidly sold it because it was "getting too old" (178k).