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Hey /o/, I know next to nothing about cars, but I need some help

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Thread replies: 13
Thread images: 1

Hey /o/,
I know next to nothing about cars, but I need some help and I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask here. Sorry in advanced if I make an ass of myself.
I drive a 2001 Mercury Sable GS and to be honest it has a shit ton of problems. I'm just looking to solve one. When it idles, it chugs real hard, like moving the car back and forth hard. More in D and R than in P or N but to some degree in all gears. It hasn't stalled on me yet, because I switch it into N and rev it up to 1,5 RPMs when I'm idling. I've read it might be the IAC valve, but I also read you can't clean or adjust it, and I'm not in a position to buy a part if I don't know I need it. Also, if it matters, the check engine light came on five or so days before this started happening. So are there any alternative possibilities, or ways I can more accurately diagnose the issue? pls /o/ I'm an ignorant fool who needs your help
>>
it can be cleaned out with carb cleaner though...
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>>15822167
Read the code
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I think that generation sable / taurus has got to be the shittiest car in the world. I know so many people who have had them, and they've all been total pieces of shit. I inherited one when my grandmother died, and it ended up shitting the transmission out. Luckily it did this so quickly I hadn't sold my old car yet, which easily had twice as many miles and lasted another two years.
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>>15822167

Simple fix. 2 step process.


1. Get it checked with OBD scanner.
2. Dump the car on someone else.
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>>15822167
Could be IAC, ,and bad engine mounts making the symptoms worse. Could be a misfire due to low compression, coule just need a time up. It could be a lot of things
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>>15822179
He needs efi cleaner, carb cleaner can coat the maf and cause issues. He needs to clean both.

OP, get a friggin tuneup.
I'll bet your on 15 year old plugs.
Don't get wires, just change sparkplugs and cap/rotor.
$20 says I can pop a chunk of electrolisis buildup the size of a dime off the rotor.
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>>15822179
Looked it up, you're right, looks pretty easy. I'll try that first, thanks for dealing with my idiocy.

>>15822196
I've never had so much go wrong on a car all at once. I think you might be right.

>>15822198
>1. Get it checked with OBD scanner.
I'll look into that, thanks. I keep forgetting shit like that exists.

>2. Dump the car on someone else.
I fucking wish.

>>15822208
Yeah, that's what I've been reading. I know the engine mounts aren't in good condition, either, so that's probably a factor.

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll let the thread sit for a few minutes in case someone else has something to ad then get rid of it
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>>15822223
Thanks for the correction. I'll look for the right stuff tomorrow.
It needs more than a tuneup, but I'll take that into consideration. To be frank, no matter what I do, the car's probably got less than a year left anyway. At this point it's "how can I get away with spending the least amount of money before I can just buy a new car and drive this thing into the fucking river".
>$20 says I can pop a chunk of electrolisis buildup the size of a dime off the rotor.
Shit, I'd pay you more than that if you could magically appear at my car and help me with that.
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>>15822223
>OP, get a friggin tuneup.

Good call.
>>
Motor mounts
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>>15822167
I had one of these with 68,000 miles. Replace the vehicle asap. Its not reliable or cheap to repair. My 95 accord with 195,000 miles runs better than that piece of crap and a whole lot cheaper to fix up and with a help of a Haynes manual almost anyone can fix it up at home
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my manual ford ranger has a super high idle so i just disconnect that part in the picture, spray it with electric part cleaner then, dry it out then put it back in. high idle stop for a couple months or so after that. new iac sensor is like$30 bucks at pick and pull
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 1


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