Vent Fans won't come on.

Alright boys thanks for the advice.

Check your blower motor fuse first. If thats ok then check the blower motor itself to see if its receiving power

If they are receiving power then its time to replace it

>>15667654
Check your cabin air filter
>>15668064
Relax /o/ is a slow board. If it isn't your air filter, your motor might Just be fried m8

>>15668078
This, but also check the switch.

So I got it working after taking all the fuses out and putting them back in and jiggling some wiring around a bit to the blower motor and resister.

It worked for a 10 minute drive, let it sit a bit came back and it turns on then gets weaker and turns off then back on then off, rinse repeat.

After doing that a few times it stayed on and was working normally when I turned it off.

Any idea what that could be? I was thinking wires somewhere or the motor itself is just going bad. Luckily it's like a $28 part at my local auto store.

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Check if your blower motor has a thermal resistor. If it does, the coils might be worn and causing it to behave erratically.

>here lies anon
His name was Frolo

>>15668734
It does have one under the hood. I'll have to take it out in a bit and check it. Gotta disconnect the battery I read online to mess with this thing.

>>15668734
Looked pretty normal to me. A little old but no huge rust or burned/brown coil action.

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>>15668734

Some resistors have a thermal fuse that can go out. Mine went out last winter, only blew air on max power.

>>15669700
Turn the ignition to "run" and disconnect the harness at theblower motor. There should be power on the Dark Green wire. If not, then power isn't even getting from thefuseblockto the motor. In that case, double check the fuse and then check for a break in the Dark Green wire. Plug the motor back in if power to it is good.
If the power is getting to the motor, then you need to check for power at the resistor. Power enters the resistor on the Black wire with tan stipe. If you disconnect thegreen connectorfrom the resistor, you should get full 12v on that wire. If you do, then the voltage is getting to the resistor. If not, then there's a break somwhere between the motor and the resistor. Plug the resistor back in if power to it is good.
If everything is good here, then the harder part comes in, you have to remove theheater controlsfrom the dash again and check to see if the harness is getting power on multiple wires. You should have 12V on the following wires: Gray(pin #6), Light Blue(pin #5), Light Green(pin #4), and Tan(pin #3). If there's no power on any of them, then you have a badresistor pack.
If power does get to the Control Unit like it should, then you'll have to check for continuity to ground on the Black wire in the control unit harness(pin #7). If you have power to the unit and a good ground, then you have a bad Control Unit.

>>15669808
The air is blowing still and checked all the components on the resistor and it's all good even the connectors are still good. It was replaced about 10 years ago I believe.

>>15670081
I'll have to do this tomorrow after work but hopefully it'll stay running until then.

>>15670125
With that old resistor design, many times the fault will be caused by wires further back on the harness (inside the black sheathing) shorting out due to the wires getting too hot and melting through their insulation.

>>15670125
Also, a new blower motor resistor costs like 7 bucks, so you could just replace it and eliminate that variable for not too much effort. If it works, it works. If it doesn't, then at least you saved yourself a headache later down the road.

>>15670198
I'll pick one up. Guess it won't hurt to have an extra in case.

Not a cost issue just was feeling lazy earlier.

>>15670399

Nice.

http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/auto/repair/electrical/heater_blower/resistor/replace_rewire_93_Dakota.html