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200,000mi maintainence

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Thread replies: 16
Thread images: 2

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so here is my skimmed down maintence list, how does it look?

2000 ford ranger - 2.5l - standard - 2wd - 215,000mi

flush coolant
replace leaky radiator
flush power steering
check steering box for major leak
transmission oil change
engine oil change
replace air filter
replace old hoses
check timing belt for replacement
check engine temp gauge

check balljoints for replacement
fix spare tire mount
rotate tires
check tires for lumps
check wheel bearings
check brake pads

replace or clean MAF sensor
Worth it to replace:
1. pcv valve?
2. 02 sensor?

.
..
...

I regularly go to a skatepark next to a super-tweaky methy scrapyard and the owner said he would do the maintenence for me - better yet, he would show me how to do it myself - so i imagine he would give me the frugal run on car maintence which i am totally into but im worried he will be filling my car with **** fluids and **** parts - he told me to go get all my replacement parts from pick-n-pull and "if the part looks shiny, grab it"

he also said for the majority of my concerns, "if its not cuasing any problems, dont mess with it"
im very hesistant to work with him, but also very curious
>>
>>15463141
Take it to a professional faggot. For anything you can't do.
>>
>>15463163
does a twenty-something year old mechanic (and son of a mechanic who used to own a ranger) who does side jobs out of his garage count as a professional? basically only thing i know i can do on my own is replace air filter, clean my MAF sensor

does a tweaker named "metal bob" who owns a scrapyard with cars constantly coming in and out, count as a professional?

i work like 2 months out of the year so i am on a budget and try to save money when i can
>>
>>15463198
If you only work 2 months out of the year then why are you trying to fully restore this truck?

Change the oil, coolant, and trans fluid yourself. Just watch a YouTube video. Chrisfix even owns the Mazda version of your truck. If there is a power steering leak it's probably the pump or the steering rack, which are not cheap. If the brakes work, leave them alone. If it's running fine, you can leave the maf, pcv and o2 sensors alone.
>>
>>15463246
>If you only work 2 months out of the year then why are you trying to fully restore this truck?
becuase i aimlessly drive it around the other 10months.
i mean its not a full restore, shouldnt this listed stuff be routinely changeD?

i figure changing the pcv valve and 02 sensors should help bring back up my gas milage, ya? also ive been throwing a p0133 code which is related to 02 sensor, but i read it could be due to my coolant leak

also my engine is randomly fed gas when idling which i believe is due to a dirty MAF sensor

thnx for the input
>>
>>15463454
So you have an o2 sensor code, bad gas mileage, and your engine is "randomly fed gas when idiling"

I think you need to chase that down before you do anything else
>>
>>15463454
Get a Bluetooth obd2 adapter and torque pro for your Android phone. Check fuel trims. If your front o2 sensor is bad then the engine has no idea how much fuel to dump in the engine. That will cause your bad gas mileage. If you have no other codes I'd just replace the sensors. Both is ideal. Use oem Motorcraft sensors from rockauto. 70 bucks plus shipping for both. Plus a 7/8s wrench if you don't have one.
>>
>>15463990
gas milage isnt bad, it has just gone from averaging 27mpg to 24mpg over the past 90,000miles

it has been doing the gas feed when idling ever since i got it. cleaning the MAF sensor usually quiets it up for a couple months. usually only does it when its really hot out and im sitting in fucking stop&go traffic
the 02 sensor just started coming on&off around the same time my radiator sprung a leak

im about to google what a fuel trim is
&
damn, i just bought a $50 code reader
>>
should i just skip replacing the 02 sensor? what is the price of labor on that?
>>
>>15465107
Just do it yourself. I'm still trying to understand why you work 2 months out of the year. Are you fat and lazy?
>>
>>15463141
Nothing on your list is expensive, there's no reason to be going to pick n pull, a new/reman power steering pump shouldn't be expensive, they can be such a pain in the ass used isn't worth risking a faulty one. Let me just go down the list here.


>flush coolant
Do it yourself, it's easy, since you need a new rad and hoses anyways, tear out the hoses/rad, run a hose through the block and replace the thermostat/water pump while you're at it

>replace rad
Easily done and cheap for a stock replacement, just stick to OEM

>flush power steering
Easily done yourself as well, youtube will help you greatly here

>steering box
Find leak, replace/fix as needed, again, youtube should help you here

>transmission oil
Can be a pain in the ass only because keeping gasket in place and the amount of bolts, it's also messy. Replace filter while you're at it if applicable (clean the bottom of the pan out if it's got gunk on it)

>oil change
Just follow service manual, use correct fluid, buy a decent filter like Bosch's distance plus

>air filter
Straight forward here.

>replace old hoses
Easy and straight forward, replace all coolant and vacuum lines, they're dirt cheap.

>timing belt
If belt, change the fucking thing, if chain, check slack. Unless you know the last time the timing belt was done, just do it, it'll save your engine from going kaboom, I'd suggest getting help here if you're not mechanically inclined or comfortable, as you can fuck this up greatly if you don't do it properly.

>engine temp gauge
What? If it doesn't work, could be bad gauge or sending unit, otherwise I'm not sure of your concern here

>balljoints
Jack up car, check for play top to bottom or side to side in the wheels, youtube can explain more thuroughly for you. Job can vary from extremely easy to pain in the ass depending on make/model, parts are typically cheap. Tie rods should be done at same time, as you'll need an alignment afterwards anyways.

>cont
>>
>>15465551
Timing belt. Doesn't need to be done because these aren't interference engines.
>>
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>>15465551

>spare tire mount
I'd assume this is straight forward as we don't know what's wrong with it.

>rotate tires
4th grader can do this, inspect tires for odd wear, charts can explain the wear indicators for you, signs of bad alignment/over/under inflation, etc;

>tires for lumps
See above, check for cracks as lumps are far less common, and tread depth.

>wheel bearings
Wheel bearings tend to be in 1 of 2 states, either completely fine, or fucked, they never really seem to "start going out", if they're in fine condition just pack them with fresh grease, USE. THE. CORRECT. GREASE.

>brake pads
Easy, also cheap and easy to replace, check rotors for cracks or uneven wear as well, Check pads for angled wear, as that can be a side of improperly seated pads, or the calipers are bad/functioning improperly due to bad brake fluid/master cylinder/air in system. Would also suggest bleeding the brakes as it's easy, and highly beneficial.

>replace/clean MAF sensor
Clean it with MAF cleaner, don't fucking use brake cleaner or carb cleaner or some stupid shit, vehicle will throw a code if it's bad/dirty anyways (likely you don't have an OBD2 scanner, go to orielys/autozone/napa, they will scan your car for free, google the code if it pops up with one)

>PCV valve
They're like $5-10, replace it if you feel like it, if it's working correctly you can shake it and hear the ball rattling inside, if no rattle, get a new one, or a new one anyways, peace of mind is nice.

>02 sensor
Don't need to fuck with it unless you're getting a code, other than cleaning it really.
>>
>>15465576

>Doesn't need to be done because these aren't interference engines.

I wasn't sure and didn't feel like googling, but even still, if he's already considering it, wouldn't hurt to replace it if it's never been done, instead of having it snap one day and strand him somewhere possibly, or leave him panicked and taking it to a mechanic.
>preventative maintenance beats repairing failures, if you ask me.
>>
>>15465576
Fuck I'd love an engine like that
>>
ok, so i set a date with a mechanic two days from now but i just went to start my truck and it sounded like shit. i dont want to drop $500 on a truck thats about to have the engine blow in a week, wtf
Thread posts: 16
Thread images: 2


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