General Wrenching Thread

>>14703044
What an axle nut? Don't they have a pin in them to stop them from moving?

>>14703057
Wel, you can see on the picture that there's basically nothing else there. That's the view you get when you dismount the exhaust and look right at the wheel.

>>14703044
That's just a lock nut, the metal ring bit inside keeps it from coming loose and the wheel falling off and you dying.
Spray it with PB Blaster then give it hell

>>14703110
What this guy said. I've had this same problem in the past, what's worked the best is using a pipe attached to an allen wrench and giving it a hefty blow. Don't try to do it slowly, give it a good blow. Otherwise you risk deforming the screw thread or simply breaking it.

>>14703146
>>14703110
Alright, I'll slather more WD-40 on it tonight and retry with the air wrench. The drum brakes inside are so bad you have no chance with a long regular wrench because the wheel will just turn over anyway.

Try spraying it with penetrating spray (liquid wrench etc.) thencooking that fucker with a torch. In my experience it makes the nut absorb some of the LIquid wrench

>>14703159
How strong is your impact?

>>14703159
Put some motor oil in your impact, where the hose hooks up, dump it in, it'll make it stronger.
I've used this in the past many times and it works.

>>14703242
>>14703252
It's not exactly mine, I live in a dorm which has a student-run bicycle workshop. It used to be a car workshop way back in the 70s and 80s but now almost nobody buys a car for himself, so the bicycle portion took over. The impact is definately from back then. It does have some kinda glass and brass oiler device you could clip in between the air hose and the impact itself and that still has oil in it, I'll just rig that in next time I try then.

>>14703272
>It does have some kinda glass and brass oiler device
Lol that's probably an air dryer, those remove oil and water from the air stream.
If you look at the tools you'll notice they have a little thing that says "OIL DAILY" on them, you don't actually have to oil it daily unless you're literally using the fuck out of it, but oil will help increase power due to a better seal and less friction.

>>14703272
Also try putting a really fat guy on the bike and letting some air out of the tire, put the front wheel against the wall and use a breaker bar on it.
Use the rear brake at the same time as well.

Or shove some metal bar between the holes in the wheel so it binds up then break it free.

File: impact wrench.gif (47KB, 361x500px) Image search: [Google]

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>>14703286
I just checked it, the only markings on the device is 1/2'', which is weird since I'm in Germany. Is that about the motor inside the impact? It looks identical to this thing. And yeah, it did say 'oil daily', on a sticker that almost faded away entirely.

Blow torch to the nut, heating metal makes it expand.

>>14703318
>the only markings on the device is 1/2'', which is weird since I'm in Germany. Is that about the motor inside the impact?
This has to be bait.

>>14703318
1/2 horsepower maybe? no idea what that would mean otherwise

>>14703325
Well it's def not for the nuts that you would stick on the front since those are all in metric measurements. Maybe it's the size of the axle/ shaft in the middle? I have no idea.

>>14703318

Jesus Germany, just 70 years ago you brought the whole world to war and made planes fly using fake science.

Use a breaker bar you rookie.

>>14703329
It's the square drive you fucking mouth breather. Seriously, when talking sockets the drive size is just about the most important aspect you can think of, when talking about pneumatic or hand ratchets.

>>14703318
1/2" refers to the drive size. In most automotive situations you'll encounter three drive sizes: 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2". The fact that you live in Germany doesn't matter; the drive sizes were established by SAE, which is an international organization.

Anyway, check to make sure the fucker isn't left-hand threaded. You might be inadvertently tightening it.

That impact gun is a piece of shit. Any possibility that it's reverse thread? Either way, mapp gas or propane torch that badboy and use a breaker bar.

>>14703337
First time using one. My other scooter was crude enough that you could handle it with hand-powered tools easily. Thanks for the info though.

>>14703345
No, I checked that, you can even see it in the picture, a little bit at least. It opens opposite the normal turning direction while riding, natch.

Heat it up with a butane torch until it starts to glow red, then try it. If it's merely stuck, it'll expand and you should be able to wrestle it off

>>14703354
i understand that it may be your first time using one, but you could have just taken 5 minutes on google to understand the concepts

1/4 is for when you need a light torque on something/something comes out easy and its small.
3/8s for things like brake caliper bolts
1/2 for things like lug nuts, strut bolts, control arms

you want at LEAST 500ftlbs of BREAKAWAY torque to have a half decent impact gun. make sure thats not a left handed thread (meaning: turning it to the right actually loosens it) and hit it hard with your impact.

if impact is fail, get ratchet, and a really long pole that you can slide of the handler of ratchet. have a partner/fat guy either sit on it or squeeze down the rear brake pedal. proceed to break loose nut.

File: zoomer zylinderkopf.jpg (75KB, 960x720px) Image search: [Google]

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>>14703393
Eh, I might as well post all the rest I got happening with the Honda now I'm here.

It's not a Ruckus, it's a Zoomer. Difference being, this has 4 valves on its single cylinder and EFI, including a lambda probe. Getting it to start is a bitch and a half that requires endless cranking and kicking while opening the throttle all the way AND only works when I pre-charged the battery to max capacity. Then it immediately stops running once you stop giving it gas. The drum brakes stick because the thing stood outside for quite a while, which means I have to pry the brake arms at the wheels outward if I want to ride it for the short distances I use to testing out if the most recent fix attempt did anything. I recently aquired a shop manual and am trying to deciper what the warning light is telling me, which is hard to do because the battery is easily drained once I attatch it, see above starting attempts. Even with the brakes pried loose, it tops out at around 35kmh.

I bought it mostly just to have something halfway technologically advanced to toy with and try fixing to raise my wrenching skill. My other scooter is a Honda SFX twostroke, so crude its practically impossible to damage, which is what I mainly use to get around.

Pic related is the cylinder head. Not mine, just a picture I found.

>>14703159
Screw WD40, kerosene and ATF will make it come off.

50/50 ratio

>>14703614
Holy fuck nigger, scrap that piece of shit and get something else.

File: instandsetzung bundeswehr.jpg (126KB, 700x700px)

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I got it off! turns out a longer bar and a fat dude is really all you need. Thanks for the help guys.

Well, I switched out the wheel and it turns out that the axle is the cause of the figure of eight that the rear wheel was doing, so I probably need to switch that out too.

>>14704567
No way, it's occupational therapy, I'm trying to learn how to fix modern cars here. It's essentially that but miniaturized. At least I can lift every single part I need to install with both hands. I mean, it is just a scooter.

>>14704864
where to cop pin

>>14704890
What? There was no pin on the axle, it opened with just brute force.