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Head gasket replacing

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Thread replies: 13
Thread images: 3

File: IMG_4741.jpg (194KB, 751x578px) Image search: [Google]
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Hey guys,
this weekend i'm preventively changing my head gasket : my shitbox is a 1983 Volvo 740 and it's running great, not eating oil.
The thing is that I got a wet head gasket in one point, and that even after 200+km in dry conditions.
that's why I want to replace it, before it breaks and tries to fuck my head unit

anyway, here's what I plan to do :

>Once the head removed

>clean the block/head surface
>chek the block/head for cracks/and deformations
>clean the block threads really well
>clean the new bolts
>clean the oil/water wells

>Before gasket positionning

>Clean and degrease very well the head/block surfaces
>clean and degrease the gasket
>place the gasket on the block surface, gasket facing the right way
>Put the head back on with the help of two straws to help position it
>grease the place where the head bolts sit
>oil the bolt threads evenly
>screw the bolt in place without tightening
>tighten each screw at 50% of the recommandation and following the pattern
>fully tighten following the pattern
>check tightening and reassemble


Am I forgetting anything ? while i'm at it I'll change the timing belt and the water pump
>>
>>14056836
Get a proper straight edge to measure the head for warping
Get a sharpening stone to go over the deck of the block
make sure to buy NEW head bolts or ARPs
maybe retighten the head bolts after 2 heat cycles.
>>
File: resized.jpg (197KB, 1000x662px) Image search: [Google]
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>>14056893
>Get a proper straight edge to measure the head for warping

got it

>Get a sharpening stone to go over the deck of the block

I don't know what you mean... like sanding the block surface ?

>make sure to buy NEW head bolts or ARPs
maybe retighten the head bolts after 2 heat cycles.

Got new bolts, and checking tension seems like a great idea

thanks
>>
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>>14056911
one of these to clean the block. little known tip, works great
>>
>>14056963
>>14057001
thanks for the advice. it's a steel block, so I'll think a razor blade will do it to remove the hard parts of the gasket without damaging anything
>>
>>14057001
how is that bad? they are perfectly flat, minimally abrasive, and cant fuck up like you can with a razor.
>>
>>14057496
also dumb question
my exhaust manifold is old
like the bolts are rotten
is it ok to leave it on and unbolt everything behind the manifold ? (maybe it would fuck the joint by putting too much pressure on one side before wrenching everything ?)
>>
>>14057597
replace the studs/bolts/nuts
Get a new exhaust gasket

but if nothing is leaking, or loose, you can leave it be.
>>
https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/HeadgasketRepair/HeadgasketRepair.htm
Here you go m8, got the same car and planning on doing this sometime also if your like me and never done this before, I would watch a couple of vids and collect as much infomation as I can before attempting anything, but you seem to have good idea on what to do.
>>
>>14056836
You should invest in a tap and chase all the threads in the block to make sure they are free and clear, otherwise you micht get incorrect torque readings.

In the good old days I'd spray the gasket with silver paint. The aluminum dust helped to promote complete sealing.
>>
>>14057496
They drop grit and it will go into the cylinders
>>
>>14057927
nothing is leaking, i want to leave it as it is fo now

>>14057966
thanks mang

>>14059124
yeah I heard that. i'm starting tomorrow afternoon, will definitely post pics
>>
i would swap the valve seals as well, depending on mileage
Thread posts: 13
Thread images: 3


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