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>Using thicker weight oil than what's specified by the owner's manual on high mileage engines
Good or bad?
I've heard both sides, I'm wondering what /o/ says.
>Thicker oil will help burn/leak less
or
>Thicker oil is too heavy and won't flow in engine properly, wearing it out faster
or
>Thicker oil is fine as long as you let the engine warm up
so what the fuck is it
For example, I have a d16 honda engine with 230k miles that's been getting 20w50 for at least the past 30k miles, or 3-4 years I've owned it. Reason being because the previous owner's last oil change sticker had it, and because it burns about a half a quart every 1k miles
Am I fucking up the engine? I just replaced the rocker o rings so I've been thinking about putting 5w30 back in to see if it still burns or even just to have the original spec oil. Would switching weight after having used way thicker oil for a long time be a bad idea?
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Shitpost Guy (ID: !!AcsnU0Qj7k0)
2015-11-27 08:23:09
Post No.13935611
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>>13935604
Switch to this
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>>13935604
Add some fire retardant powder to the oil, the engine will stop burning oil
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The oil pump can handle thick oils just fine.
My oil pressure increases when I run thicker oil. You're not going to have any issues.
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>>13936012
I want to believe this but i have no faith in this board anymore
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All D16's over 100000 miles burn oil like crazy past the rings and the valve guide seals. Thicker oil will do nothing to stop that. Use what Honda says to use. Just make sure you keep topping it off!
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>>13935604
Moving to a heavier weight oil will preserve the bottom end / rotating assembly, and tends to slow oil burning.
The sacrifice is that it doesn't get as much oil up into the valvetrain as the factory weight. It can gum up hydraulic lifters and underlube the cam.
I always think it's best to run the factory weight oil, and just add more when it burns it. I've seen far more engines die to valvetrain failures than bottom end failures.
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> Engine is getting worn out
> Lets use oil that lubricates it worse
Sure a heavier oil will gunk up some of the leaks, but that doesn't change the fact that the engine is designed to certain viscosities, and using too light or too heavy oil will have an impact on the wear and tear AND driving experience.
Only reason why you have been without engine failure, OP, is because you drive a Honda, which is an unkillable God-machine. Hell, a Honda with the top of the engine pulled off and all oil drained can run for 15 minutes before seizing. Look it up on the tube of egos.
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>>13935604
it already burns half quart with the thickest oil around, you can't fuck it up more. use a thin oil and youll burn more oil than gas
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>>13938421
>Only reason why you have been without engine failure, OP, is because you drive a Honda, which is an unkillable God-machine.
Not a lot of experience with cars, huh?
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>>13938421
Any engine can run for 15 minutes with no oil.
Hondas are not unkillable. Every honda I've ever owned has eventually died of some sort of valvetrain failure in the 200-300k mile range, in normal street driving (two LS integras with B-series engines, and an old Accord with an E-series.
In aggressive driving, well, just look at how infrequently Hondas finish Lemons races.
>>13938441
>it already burns oil, you can't fuck it up more
It burns oil, but it still runs on all 4 cylinders. There are certainly other ways it can get fucked up.
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>>13938472
>There are certainly other ways it can get fucked up
With viscosity choice? Maybe, you can pour some type of elastomer in the crankcase with a 700 centistoke viscosity, that might be a worse viscosity
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>>13938456
Honda engines are pretty fucking solid
>>13938472
Most cars die of failure between 200k and 300k miles
Besides, half a quart pr 1000 miles is not even a lot. Toyotas are legendary for burning a quart or more pr 1000 KILOMETERS.
OP is actually killing his engine because of something which is not even a problem.
All the people I know who have done their own car maintnance, have told me that all old cars will "drool", as in they will loose oil. This is because of seals slowly going to pieces and letting the oil out. Most old engines have black tar on the front or the back of the block because of leakage. It is not something to worry about, unless you are an idiot that don't check the dipstick every once in a while. You can choose to change each and every seal on the engine and on related components, but do you really want to? Is it truly worthwhile? No?
Then put on that damn half quart every 1000 miles and be glad that your engine isn't drooling more than that.
Putting heavier oil on it is a sure way to kill it before its time is up
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>>13935604
d16a9?
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>>13938530
>Putting heavier oil on it is a sure way to kill it before its time is up
Explain the exact process behind this and provide proof.
>inb4 start up wear, un-pumpable and other misconceptions
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