BBG

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reposting in a more appropriate thread i guess.

I want to drop a g on a daily commuter that I can also go for rides with mates on.
I'm a fat guy and want steel, is the koda honky tonk a good choice?

I can get a new 2015 one for $1050 (australia) with shipping here, (no decent bike shops where i live)

http://2015.konaworld.com/honky_tonk.cfm

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>>999908
>I'm looking to get a gravel bike for road and gravel/trail use. I already have a road bike but no mountain bike, and I want this bike to be comfy and durable. these two bikes look like the best value for money and componentry/tire clearance so far:

Do you need speed or you just want comfy? Because I would go with a touring bike if comfy was the goal. This one comes with a Brooks B17 meme at $1,300

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>>1000164

If you are heavy (cyldesdale) you might want to look for a bike with V-brakes or disc brakes.

This Fuji Touring is $770 with V-brakes. Widely regarded as the best deal for a touring bike

http://www.fujibikes.com/bike/details/touring-

I would spend $15 to get kool stop brake pads for it

then spend $150 to get a Selle Anatomica saddle to be super comfy (if you are under 250 lbs)

https://selleanatomica.com/products/x-series

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>>999908
I would go haanjo
i have taken mine on single track a coupletimes and its a durable shitkicker

my only gripe with the frame is that there could be better mounting for racks and fenders, and the tire clearance in the rear could be a little better, i got a 700x40c to fit but it is a squeeze

the GT grade is a fun bike was gonna get one for my chick, it was designed to be carbon and then was adapted to alloy to hit a price point kinda heavy kinda clunky, better value exists
have you seen fuji tread?

>>1000173
I want this thing so bad.

>>1000173
Thanks for info, I feel like I might be a little too tall and long in leg for the 58cm Fuji touring yet probably too small for the 64cm. I can't find the 64cm online anyway so I was wondering if 58 would be too small. I'm a bit under 6 foot 2 inch and 32-33 inch inseam

>>1000188
>Thanks for info, I feel like I might be a little too tall and long in leg for the 58cm Fuji touring yet probably too small for the 64cm. I can't find the 64cm online anyway so I was wondering if 58 would be too small. I'm a bit under 6 foot 2 inch and 32-33 inch inseam

Good watching out for that. For me I'm 6'4 with a 36" inseam, all legs, and I ride mostly 58cm top-tube bikes.

Fuji Tread cheap model mentioned above is $700-something on sale if you google it

>>1000170
I'd like speed, but gravel is a bit of a meme and i know i can't have 100% of both so it is a compromise bike.
i want to be able to take it on the road and not feel much slower than my roadie

>>1000180
that's funny, i liked the haanjo for it's tire clearance (40 vs 35 on the grade). i've also heard that the haanjo trail is heavier and clunkier than the grade (possibly an aluminum steerer on a carbon fork vs. full carbon steerer/fork?)

i haven't seen the fuji thread, but to be honest i'm willing to pay a bit extra just because i don't enjoy the look of fujis. the appeal of the grade was the style and an intro to sram (i've only ever ridden shimano) while still maintaining good road riding capability.

my major gripe with the grade is that it's $100 more and the meme 1x gearing offers less (and the lack of gears has been noticed by reviewers, though i could just get a bigger cassette)

>>1000203
The tread looks boring but hey just launched a new gravel/cx line, the jari, which looks fucking sexy.
The 2016 fuji paintjobs were just fucking uninspired but the 2017s are delicious.

i want a trek crossrip 3 but my lbs apparently cant order one for me. i live in westerm kansas and there are no other shops. cant even get ant used bikes or nothing

is the cannondal caadx comparable to the trek crossrip?

>>1000252

Just order it yourself directly from Trek?

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/city-bikes/urban-commuter-bikes/crossrip/crossrip-3/p/1378000-2017

Just found a vintage 10spd near me

Is 10 speed good for a novice fitness/leisure bike.Only want to do 70k hilly rides tops

>>1000164

kona makes a good bike. I have a raliegh tamland, which I love. I built it up from the frame so IDK how much it would cost you but its a great frame for a clydesdale

>40mm tyre clearance
>comfy geo
>good tubes

has dickmeme brakes, which are a plus to me. I ride it down stairs, cobblestones, gravel, mud etc. Haven't broken the frame yet. It really reminds me of an updated 90s rigid mtb desu.

>I'm 270lbs/120kg

>>1000391
Depends on the gearing, many OTS come with rather small, high gear freewheels

>>999908
I own the Grade Alloy X. Love it, but not a fan of stock 33c or the 11-28 cassette. I put an 11-32 on there and the rolling hills are much easier to deal with. The 33 isn't wide enough for more rugged gravel and it's sloooow on paved surfaces. They should have either maxed it out or gone with the 28c that the other grades come with.

>>999908
Giant Revolt 1. Clears a 700x50mm tire fine, wicked comfy, and pretty quick if you run slicks.

>>1000449
love the clearance, but non-hydraulic brakes and a tiagra drivetrain make me unenthusiastic for only $300 less. I'll look into it

>>1000439
i was planning on getting the 11-32 sram cassette if i did get it, and was hoping the jump between cogs wouldn't be bone-shattering. i believe it can fit up to 35c tires which is still a bit lacking compared to the haanjo trail or the giant revolt.
i'd get a pair of 28 slicks for road riding if i got any of these bikes

i'm worried i'm using this as too much of an excuse to try sram, and not weighing in tire clearance and all that enough. i'm really leaning towards the grade just for the sram, and telling myself i could deal with 5c less on the tires...
i appreciate all the help

>>1000464
JARI JARI JARI JARI

>>1000482

>$2800-3000 for one specced with a thru-axle in the rear instead of a QR and sram force instead of rival (as on the grade)
why

i like the bike but why

The GT is a sexy mofo and every review I've read/watched about them rave about it but 1x and the 35mm tire limit would be a big downer. 35mm would probably be fine but I'd prefer to have the option to get 40s on there. My cross bike is also my road bike so I want that 2x gearing. I guess if it were a gravel/trail only bike that wouldn't be as big of a deal. Then there is the hydraulic brakes on the DB which is another big pro.

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>tfw purchased a bike for the first time today

10/10 experience. Couldn't have been better. Pic related is what I bought.

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>>1000516
When I purchased my first real bike it was the worst experiance ever. And te bine turned out to be build shitty. No oil in the fork and the breakes kept geinding. Had to do all of the maintenence myself because the bike shop was just so shitty and kept saying "everything is okay".

I would never purchase in a bike shop again. Just get a used one or build one yourself.

>>1000464
>11-32
what chainrings are you planning on running that with?

>>1000464
I've got the alloy 105. I'm not so in shape so this might not apply to you but the 34/32 lowest ratio is not enough for me on 3-5km of 8-10% grades I've around here at some points. Then again, I have to loose near 20kg still.
I've run sector 28c tubeless and now recently flintridge 35c tubeless. Sector 28 are surprisingly good for most gravel paths I've here, until I hit sand pits, loose rocks and flints/rocky terrain, then the flintridge are being enough for those. But warning the 35c on my rims are actually 38mm wide at 40psi and they did rub at the fork slightly, still usual pressure I run those in is 30-35 psi. I actually feel 33c tubeless should be enough for a better balance of speed and comfort but haven't tried.

>>1000524
i'd likely keep the stock 40t crank, as that gives a gain ratio of 2.5 vs. the DB's lowest of 2.3, and a keeps the highest at 7.3 (vs. the DB's 8.4). it seems like the low end will be very similar if i do get the 11-32, the only concern then would be tire clearance

>>1000530
i've never found that i needed more than a 34/32 on the road, and usually 34/28 is good. i'm sure on the gravel it's a bit different though. i would like to be able to take the bike on singletrack which is where the DB seems to shine through

>>1000516
Post your new bike in the pybt.

does trek make good bikes? only
bike store around here only sells
treks

>>1000577
That gearing might be too hard if you have some serious hills

>>1000633
Trek (and indeed most big bike companies, past and present) makes a range of bikes: from top tier race machines to entry-level bikes that are mediocre, but okay for a rider that doesn't need anything fancy. People who know bikes are never going to be impressed by an 820 or a Verve, but those are still vastly better bikes than what you'd get if you bought something at Walmartt, Target, etc.

>>1000697
im looking at the aluminum alx. ita full 105 and seems pretty nice

I don't really want to start a new thread for this, but biketiresdirect.com has new (not refurbished) Garmin 810s with full US warranty for $200, free shipping.

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/garmin-edge-810

Starts off at $220, you get an extra 10% off if you buy 3 sale items. You could bu tubes or whatever, but buying 2 of these

https://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/bell-super-2-2r-pad-kit

Makes the total $201.96, which is a pretty damn good deal if you want a cycling GPS with mapping.

Take a moment to laugh at this please

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/5663305298.html

is a component question considered appropriate for this thread? should i make my own? thinking of upgrading from the stock claris/sora monster that came with my (obviously pretty entry level) bike, debating between some of the options i see on merlin

>>1000803
>http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bik/5663305298.html
I feel like this bike is missing a few things
- a compressed-air horn
- tire valve caps with dice
- a tall pendant flag attached to a seat stay
- ANT+ wireless speed and cadence sensors

>>1000803
Why do people always just make up random weights that are probably actually kilos.

>>1000806
Really depends what you're looking to achieve: you might change the shifters, RD, chain, and cassette to add more gearing selection. But if you're looking to save weight, it makes the most sense to start with the wheels before any part of the drivetrain. What part of the bike's current performance are you looking to improve?

>>1000806
nobody's telling me to fuck off or anything so here goes:

major questions are whether i'm doing anything crazy stupid by going with a 36/52 crankset and an 11-32 in the rear. i'm not a pro road cyclist or anything, and from what i've read people caution to go for a compact or similar crankset in cases like that, but my day to day has me *usually* on flat roads.

the rationale for the 11-32 is that i occasionally have these fairly steep hills to climb, and i'd like to have the option of tackling more hilly routes as i go from mostly running for cardio exercise to mostly cycling (i run at the gym and the views aren't very interesting).

there's a trivial question about getting a braze on front derailleur and an adapter clamp (instead of a band on derailleur) on the basis that "someday" i might upgrade my frame (it's a scott speedster 50 (not s50) from 2014), and i figure if i get a frame that has a bracket for braze on derailleurs, i'd rather be able to toss the adapter than need to buy a new derailleur. is that planning for a future that probably won't come (or rather, for a future that'll come well after i've upgraded my groupset again anyway)?

this is all rather stupid minutiae, i fear, so i appreciate anyone taking the time to help walk me through it.

>>1000818
ah yeah i neglected to mention that the wheels are an upgrade i'm planning on *before* the groupset, but shifting has felt a bit sudden on my bike and after a few changes to my brake pad placement (tightening to make them grip sooner) i feel slightly more confident in them, but not wholly more confident.

i figure if i want to have smoother shifting, don't like the brakes that much, and will have to (/wouldn't mind to) replace the shifters/hoods anyway, i might as well go get the whole groupset (crankset, bike chain, etc...) and replace the some-sora,some-claris components for all one line.

the wheelset i have in mind is the ultegra 6800 wheelset - seems reasonably inexpensive and good quality for the value - but i'd be open to going *down* in price pretty readily, or *very reluctantly* go up in price if there's a much much better option a few bucks up.

>>1000822
oh and i idiotically left out that i was thinking of the 105 groupset because reviews seem glowing about how much like ultegra components some of them are despite being relatively cheap. i'm not sure how i would feel about getting anything higher end than 105s (in case someone's thinking of pitching that) since i'm no pro, but i'm also unsure whether i'd want to go with the tiagra line (or bring everything up to the sora line) if i'll just want to upgrade all over again a year or two out.

if a year or two is roughly how long i should expect any groupset to last (which would surprise me because i bought my bike about 2 years ago and the groupset isn't falling apart...), then i could be convinced to buy an intermediary groupset since it'll get replaced in 2 years time anyway. but i figure that's not the case. or at least, some of the components will outlast that easily.

>>1000819
>>1000822
>>1000824
Frankly, I'd make sure that your current groups are working properly before replacing anything. If the shifting is rough that's much more likely to be because your cables have gotten gunk inside them than any issue with the parts themselves. Likewise your braking woes probably come from needing new brake pads. Finally, the front derailer is one of the last things you should ever bother upgrading, they're cheap, one of the least important parts on any bike, and contribute almost nothing to weight savings.

>>1000825
thanks for the post. i'm not that worried about weight (except at the obvious places where i can shave off some weight - that is, upgrading the wheels from stock to something else), but upgrading the entire groupset at once seemed more sensible than doing it piecemeal, hence the thought to do it all at once. my question about the derailleur was more along the lines of "am i overlooking some huge drawback to deliberately getting a braze on and an adapter when i could just cut out the middleman", but your answer seems to say that i should just buy another front derailleur if i buy a new frame in 2 or 3 or 4 years because that cost will be a drop in the bucket anyway.

i'll look into replacing the cables for the brakes and shifters first before looking to more drastic changes. thanks for the sanity check.

>>1000819
>major questions are whether i'm doing anything crazy stupid by going with a 36/52 crankset and an 11-32 in the rear. i'm not a pro road cyclist or anything, and from what i've read people caution to go for a compact or similar crankset in cases like that, but my day to day has me *usually* on flat roads.

You aren't going to go fast enough on flats to use a 52 front and 11 rear. You would be much better off with a compact and a 11-28. You aren't going to be fast enough to use a 50f 11r on the flats either.

>>1000848
fair enough. i just figured that a compact would be too... limited, but maybe i'm imagining myself being (a lot) faster than i am. thanks for the recommendation

>>1000819
That's dumb. If you need a 32, you should get a triple. If you won't swing a triple, then you should get a normal compact 50/34.

>>1000859
as far as i can tell the 105 only gives the option of 11 speed and compact or standard crankset - no triple with a 10 speed as seemed to have been the case with the last generation. i'm open to buying used, but craigslist isn't showing what i'm looking for.

i'd be open to just buying a triple crankset as well, but i'm not sure how to mix and match this stuff. would the shifters and all this other stuff play nice with a triple crankset instead of either the compact/standard that shimano normally offers? is this sort of thing easy to swap in and out and i'm just being dumb?

a few years ago i had never even seen an inner tube so i like to think i'm slowly crawling out of idiot status, but questions like these make me reconsider that...

>>1000864
Tiagra comes with a triple option.

>>1000864
>>1000859
now this is making me rethink the rear cassette entirely. looking around online it seems that the 11 tooth sprocket is for people that can pump out a ridiculous amount of power. trying to rein in my delusions of speedy cycling, it's arguably the case that i'm not going to maximize that gear's use.

the 12-25 seems more appropriate, all things considered, and shifting from 12-25 along 11 speeds seems it would be a lot smoother than an 8 speed 11-30 (what i have currently). but with shimano no longer offering a triple crankset, i figure even a compact 34/25 won't be able to get me up that occasional steep hill (in particular thinking about this ~9% grade that i bike up every few weeks or so).

fortunately i'm just letting this stew for a while as a previous post suggested replacing the cables and seeing how that affects things (so if i get a new groupset with all of this advice, it'll be after that), but i'll need to think about this a bit more.

>>1000883
Shimano does offer triples you dumbfuck, just not at 105 level. If you need a triple get Tiagra.

>>1000888
i kind of went through the thinking on all this earlier, and i'm not really that inclined to humor someone who's calling me a dumbfuck. i copped to being ignorant about this, but being a jackass isn't really called for, is it?

>>1000604
Sadly, the device I use to take pictures has died. I could try something else, though...

>>1000888
Did you not read the posts or are you mentally retarded? In >>1000864 he clearly didn't know that you can swap these parts out. Retarded, sure, but don't be a faggot about it.

>>1000864
>>1000883
You can get whatever crankset you want. You'll need a new chainset and new shifter, and you might need to adjust some limits, but it should be fine. And don't marry yourself to buying a groupset as a whole - get the components that make sense given your needs. Only a few things really need to be upgraded concurrently. That'll also make the whole fear of upgrading again in 2 years less salient.

>>1000893
>Did you not read the posts or are you mentally retarded?
He needlessly sticks to the 105 and 11 speed meme when it sounds like he could actually use a 3x10.

>You can get whatever crankset you want. You'll need a new chainset and new shifter
Now you're the one being retarded.

>>1000895
>it sounds like he could actually use a 3x10.
So say that, you fucking retard. When people come in here asking for help and admitting that they're fucking clueless and seeking advice, condescending faggots like you add nothing. You just make this board toxic. You're the reason we have idiot novices spewing memes rather than asking questions.

>>999908
Just yesterday I bought Bianchi's Allroad with 105. I been off the bike for a year due to my relocation from San Diego to New York for work and I was able to just hop back on to this bike no problem. I hit some trials around the area with no prior dirt/gravel experience and I'll tell you that this bike really held up.

>>1000883
There's something I've been going on around my head and want to point out. I use the 34/32 for going up hills, since is the lowest I can achieve with my current bike and pedaling at 60-90rpm that's about 8-10km/h, but on very steep hills since I'm not a in shape rider I can only keep 40 rpm after a while, and that's closer to 6km/h. Dismounting and walking pushing the bike is 4km/h.
My point is, if you have say 1km of steep hills in a 30km ride and you can't keep pedaling up and high cadence with your lowest ratio, you might as well just dismount and walk than get a 3x10 because the lowest ratio you can achieve would put you at about the same speed as walking, so there's no real advantage unless you are climbing very steep hills for a very long ride, but then again you are going to go same speed than walking, although if being picky, yes a 20x32 or so and being able to keep close to 90 rpm would make you go about 7.4km/h, which is almost double than walking, so not saying is not optimal just sometimes if you aren't racing, just dismount and walk or run pushing the bike, you will go close to the same speed as using the 3x10 lowest ratio.
My point being, if you want 105 triple might not be critical since a) while the lowest ratio of a triple will be much more comfortable and optimal the gain in speed isn't that huge. b) if you are in shape or want to muscle train, you might not go for the lowest ratio anyway to build strength and muscle so 3x10 might not also be needed.
http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed

>>1000883
I just came from a bike with a 10 speed triple crank and 11-25 cassette to a bike with an 11 speed compact crank and 11-32 cassette bike. There is nothing wrong with a compact and 11-32 cassette. There is no weird gaps in the cassette, you just need to shift the front a bit more often to keep in the sweet spot of the cassette. There was really nothing wrong with my triple setup either but I like the compact setup better.

Before you worry about any of this can your rear wheel fit an 11 speed cassette?

>>1000904
http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_ratios
That is the more important chart to play with. A triple with a 28 in the back is the same as a compact with a 32 in the back.

Here is the thing people don't like to hear for some reason. Run the cassette you need to get up the damn hill. You don't get stronger walking up the hill. If you need to run a 11-34/36/or even damn 40 or 42 in the rear do it. If your rear derailleur can't handle it then buy a cheap mtn bike derailleur or us one of these. http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink When you get in better shape then start switching to a tighter cassette.

The guy I ride with the most often has or is in the running for most of the KOMs around here and he runs a compact and 11-40 on his cross bike and loves it. People like to act like you are a pussy if you run anything easier than a 11-28 for some reason but those same people are the ones pedaling at 40rpms up step ass hills blowing their knees out.

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What does everyone think of this as a potential beater?
https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/men-s-vintage-metropolitan-city-bike-size-m/1185495000

>>1000915
Fair point, although for strength training I was told 40rpm for a short duration is fine, in the sense that the ratio you would spin at 40 would be tough enough to build up muscle but not to do it for long else you can hurt your knees, but yeah if you are having troubles to spin it and you can get a lower ratio casette, get it. My point was because 105 doesn't has triple crankset is tough to find cheap not custom bikes to fit the needs and it might not be such a necessity, but getting a different derailleur and casette is a good idea, not sure if I could get my hands on one of those where I live to try out with my compact, I would definitively love a 11-40 casette.

>>1000904
hmm, thanks for this. i think i read this thinking somewhere else as well, but the reminder is good. i *think* i'm still set on wanting a 105 despite the other guys talking about tiagra and stuff (again, the motivation is to avoid wanting to upgrade these components again *well* before their lifespans have been naturally exhausted, and i just feel like the tiagra will just have me wondering about the next step up in a few years)

more googling has suggested that the 12-25 isn't as well-loved as the other options, so maybe i'll stick with the (semi-)original plan of 11-32 and compact crankset

>>1000910
yeah, i'm gravitating back toward 11-32. i feel like in the absence of a triple crankset option in the 105 line, maybe shimano meant to put the 32 teeth on the rear derailleur to accommodate people that would've wanted a triple (fuck if i know, though. i really can't stress enough that i barely know what i should buy/do, let alone why a company in this industry would do anything).

as for the wheel question, i don't plan on getting the groupset upgrade before upgrading the stock wheels, so i'll definitely have them (ultegra 6800 wheelset) before i'm even considering an 11-speed rear derailleur (that all hinges on whether new cables resolve my frustration)

>>1000915
certainly one of the goals is to get to a point where i'll be biking up that ~9% hill, and i'm definitely willing to put in the effort, which is why i was so readily willing to go with a compact & 11-32.

>>1000926
also thanks everyone for the input. i used to lurk /p/ so i imagine new people on your board asking what shit they should buy is as annoying for you as it is on that board, so i'm trying to be receptive to feedback like "improve your technique first" and "make fixes to what you have before you go buy something new", etc... (both common responses to questions on /p/, actually, heh).

anyway, for what it's worth, the groupset is looking like it's further and further in the future as i discuss it, but i like to plan ahead a bit and know what i'm going to do when parts start failing down the road.

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So, there are these 4 used bikes that I've been looking at. The only one I actually know anything of is the RockHopper. Never heard of, and can't find much about the Suteki, Nishiki or the XT370
Given that they're all around the same price, would the Specialized still come out on top?
/rMfjgH

>>1001144
Don't know how I messed up the link so badly oops. imgur.com/gallery/ulqXy

>>1001144
What kind of riding are you looking to do? The Rockhopper and Nishiki are basic 90's mountain bikes, the Suteki and Challenger are low-end hybrids from the same period. Also note that the two mountain bikes are right for someone about 5'8, the Challenger for someone 5'10, and the Suteki for someone about 6' (give or take a few inches on all those).

I'm 5'10" They would be mostly commuting, leisure and would probably get used for cardio at times. Off road use would most likely be relegated to light dirt trails.

>>1001154
In that case, I'd rank them in this order:
Nishiki (best components) > Rockhopper > Challenger > Suteki.

>>1001156
I was curious about the nishiki. My background in biking is almost exclusively BMX. So getting into 90s rigid MTBs, is kinda weird. Something about the nishiki said "quality". Or atleast, not shitty. But I was really just shooting from the hip. The RockHopper and stump jumper are really the only rigid MTBs that I know aren't crap.

>>1000899
>toxic
>memes
I said he would be better served by a triple you retard. Why would you even come to 4chan if you want to be babied? 105 is the "toxic meme" here.

>>1000910
> There is no weird gaps in the cassette
Yes there are. There's weird gaps in the Shimano 11-28 cassette too.

Okay, I think I'm going to buy into the OTS meme. I don't care about weight or looks, but I would like it to be durable. I want a bike for commuting only a few miles. On my off days I'll do some heavier riding. don't really want to pay more than $200-300.

From lurking I've gathered I should look for these brands:

bianchi
nishiki
schwinn
raleigh
bridgestone
fuji
univega
cannondale
centurion

Are there specific models from these brands I should keep an eye out for?

>>1001493
All of those brands released multiple models of bikes for decades, there's no practical way to list desireable model names (particularly because model names were often kept across years while the bike the name went on changes). Instead, look for bikes with 700c wheels, aluminum rims, downtube or bar-end shifters, and frames that have labels that indicate they're made of quality tubing (you should read a little bit online about the different grades of tubing commonly made by Reynolds, Columbes, and Tange).

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I posted this in a separate thread and was told this would be a better place to ask.
>>1001546

Giant Contend SL
11 SPD 105 + Rim brakes
vs
10 SPD Tiagra + Mechanical discs

>>1001181
You said it in an incredibly condescending way. It might seem like a meme, but that implies that everyone coming here is in on some joke where they're trolling you. They're not. Stop acting like a dickhead.

>>1001567
may as well just keep it in the other thread now m80

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Looking to buy my first CX bike, been keeping an eye on local listings but if nothing comes up within the next few weeks I wanted to get some opinions on this Fuji Cross- https://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1193323_-1_400318__400318

Looks like pretty good componentry for the price- I'm not in love with the way it looks, but that's not too important. It's pretty much on the top end of my budget. Besides some CX racing I would like to use this for some commuting and gravel roads as well.

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This bike seems fairly cheap for what it is

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/franklin/bicycles/mens-large-road-bike/1123011246

Seems like it's a bike direct brand. This a decent bike?

>>1001773

Very good deal, the drivetrain and wheels alone are worth that price.

>>1001776
Apart from checking the frame for crash damage (and cracks I guess, aluminum does that right?) and making sure the moving parts still move is there anything else I should pay attention to if I go check it out?

>>1001782

Check to see if the wheels are trued(lift up one end, give it a spin, watch the place where the rim and brakes align closely to see if the rim wobbles closer to the brake pads at any point), and also if the chainrings and cassette are worn(look up sharktoothing cassette for examples of busted drivetrain teeth.)

Aside from the frame being toast or the shifters being busted, those will be your most expensive fixes.

>>1001873
You don't like classy fade paint jobs?

>>1001874
Yeah nevermind, keeping it as is. Looks ok after staring at it after awhile.

>>1001768
I would have bought one if they weren't sold out of the 56. Btw, check the sizing for these/ride one. You should probably size down. I'm a 58 in most other bikes.

>>1001996
Yeah, I would get the 50 even though I ride a Specialized Tarmac in 54.

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a friend is offering to sell me a Trek 470 for $340.
Shimano 600 Groupset and Ultegra front hub. Condition seems great for an 80's bike. Worth it, guys?

>>1002143
>a friend is offering to sell me a Trek 470 for $340.

"friend"

no. get a cannondale road bike with STI shitters on craigslist for the same price and tell him to fuck himself

>>1002143
it's a good, solid bike, but your "friend" is delusional as to its current market value.

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So, I was thinking of buying this OTS for commuting...

It says it's a Favorit, not sure if it's an original Czech or just a Yugo ripoff (ROG Maraton).

Anyway, is the Czech Favorit bike a road bike in terms of frame geometry, the fork, aluminium parts and other stuff I don't even know about, or is it just a more racing styled "regular" bike?

Here's the link:
http://www.bolha.com/rekreacija-sport/kolesarstvo/kolesa/cestna-kolesa/vintage-favorit-1306417001.html?aclct=1472799772

>>1002400
Looks like a typical late 1960's road bike, if it's your size it would make a fine commuter.

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Thingken of copping this

Im on a low budget, currently riding an old steel frame seven speed with a bent fork. Rides great apart from that. This looks like it needs a fuckin whopping great clean and maybe a few parts but it looks good apart from that. I just want something a bit more modern, lighter and with brifters. Thoughts?

https://www.gumtree.com/p/bicycles/giant-tcr-1-centaur-road-bike-05-06-model-med-50cm-/1186267814

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Is this worth $550?

>>1002543
Not with that paint job

>>1002527
Yes, buy it and fix it up. If it's really trashed, you can easily get your money back parting it, those shifters alone will net at least half of the asking price of the whole bike if they're in working condition.

>>1002543
Nice frame and parts. If it had the 7400 STI levers it could be worth $550 - but with dt shifters, mismatched brakes, and visible wear to the rims I think $300 would be fair. I like the paint fwiw, but putting celeste bits on a pink frame is an atrocity.

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>>1002547
The paint job is the best part, faggot

>>1002527

TCRs are crazy light and awesome

But please god check the water bottle bosses before you buy it. The frame is so thin that they tend to crack a bit at the bosses and I don't think you should be riding it if that's the case

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>>1002527

this is what I'm talking about

>>1002547
wut ? paintjob is sweet. Everything else is a mismatch however...

>>1002571
>>1002570
>>1002557

I went for it lads.

Its in gorgeous condition. No frame wear of any kind, brakes are so responsive, all the conponents are shinier than they look. Cycled it home with a grin on my face, cant believe how much road shock it soaks up compared to my steel frame bike. Only thing is the front mech wont engage the big ring, think just needs a tinker. The massive cogs at the back feel ridiculous after having a 21t biggest gear at the back.

Can you tell im excited.

Considering getting a cyclocross; i'm being told to get something with flat bars instead since i've never owned a bike with drop bars before.

Is the riding position really as uncomfortable as i'm being led to believe?
How long would it take to get used to if i ride 7miles twice a day?
Will i regret it once i have aches in my back and hands or am i being sold a lie?

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http://maine.craigslist.org/bik/5755731764.html
This look like a good commuter? Going ~10 miles each way max and it's quite flat, so not too worried about weight. The shifters on my old bike fell apart and I was looking for an excuse to replace it anyway honestly.

>>1002936
My first bike as a kid was mtb so flat bars, a year ago I picked an hybrid for urban commuting flat bars again, after my job contract ended I started riding the hybrid for fun, doing longer hours, after the first hour my hands would start to hurt quite a bit.
I bought one of those adventure bikes a month ago, 2000km so far, it was my first time with drop bars. First rides were, painful, hands would hurt more than with flat bars, after my first ride I could barely grip something and I would get cramps, after 3-5 rides I started focusing on using the drops more, moving my hands, and weeks later I realized I had also placed the hoods a bit angled in the wrong way. Right now, I do 8hrs rides and my hands never hurt, I do plenty off-road rough terrain, gravel/mountain descends and my hands do not hurt at all.
Other kinds of pain I had, back sometimes, more so for example I once did a 20 min descend on a very rough road crossing a mountain range nearby, and my knees and back ended up hurting due to absorbing the bumps and shackes and having to go on the drops all that time. But it was more soreness than pain, I sometimes also have gotten side pain when sprinting on the drops, mostly like pulling a muscle kind of pain, but it just lasts a few minutes, and I'm not in very good shape so probably I did end up getting more pain than most riders.
For me right now, I'm not going back to flat bars any time soon, but it did take me some hundreds of km.

>>1002905
fuck yeah man
check chain length and that the tensioner moves smoothly if the big chainring won't engage

>>1002957
you better be liek 6'4" to ride that, that's a massive frame
also, the length of the top tube might make the drops uncomfortable

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looking for a light as fuck used road bike, under $500. What should I buy?

>>1002981
>light as fuck
>under $500
good luck anon

>>1002957
Previous anon is right that you need be 6'4"+ to ride that massive bike, but if you are that tall it would make a fine commuting bike.

>>1002936
drops are comfortable when setup correctly, figure at least a couple weeks before you get used to them because you'll use slightly different core and arm muscles than you do with flat bars.

>>1002981
something used... might find some carbon frames on craigslist that havent been ridden much.

>>1002990
what's the lightest bike i can pick up on craigslist for $500 or so? Having a tough time in the Chicago craigslist. I don't know the bike market very well.

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>>1002992
>>1002993
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/bik/5768593866.html

Thoughts?

>>1002994
Thats... actually not too bad. I mean it's a fucking Schwinn, but that does seem like a nice bike for $400.

>>1002996
>>1002994
ty anons
called the dude and he said he'd take 300. Meeting him on thursday unless there's a good reason not to.

>>1002994
>>1002998

That's an awesome deal, compared to anything else you can get for $300

>>1002974
>>1002990
Ah shit. I'm just above manlet tier desu, so it won't do. Can't believe I didn't see that from the pic. Thanks

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Bought a Cube Attain GTC Disc @1439€, did I doned goofed? First proper road bike for me, still waiting for UPS to deliver.

>>1003170
For that price, components you get are quite amazing. I only see a problem with the tire clearance, doesn't look like there's much room at the fork for wider ones, it's also on the heavy side for a "racing" bike, then again unsure why they keep aiming that bike to racers.

Is this a good deal?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/5770371440.html

Looks like a 2010 Felt Z6, 9sp Tiagra.

>>1003629
If everything works and it doesn't need new tires right away that's a good deal. Looks bigger than 58cm to me though.

>>1003475
Aggree is their racy model. Attain is supposed to be more endurance focused AFAIK.

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>>1003170
>ups

make sure the frame isn't bent. i work at UPS, your bike might get thrown or crushed.

>>1003669

Agree is also an "aero" bike.

>>1003684

No worries, it's a carbon bike so it'll just snap during my first ride if it was thrown around.

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Question lads

I have an 80s road bike I bought for £100 and which has been a reliable commuter

I want to get back into proper riding

Should I fix it up (I will need to find the rear derailleur for it, the downtube shifters, and the dodgy front derailleur that I all took off, and I should probably fix the shitty brakes too) or should I buy a Wiggle road bike for £250? (Pic)

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Hey boys, college student looking for a short urban commuter, does this bike look like a good idea? any recs?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1980s-Gary-Fisher-Mountain-Bike-Mavic-Shimano-XT-/272364719916?hash=item3f6a33cf2c:g:9coAAOSwxg5XzFgV

or is this better? walmart shitter bike, but I need a cheap ride
https://www.walmart.com/ip/700c-Roadmaster-Adventures-Men-s-Hybrid-Bike-Dark-Blue/42248086

>>1004040
That bike is worth $150, but it's not worth $325 to have it shipped to you. Are you in Oakland?

Craigslist is better for cheap bikes than Ebay, tell us how tall you are and link us to your local CL and we can help browse.

>>1004045
I am in oakland, I was considering trying to contact to ask if I could pick it up myself. I'm 6'1 and in San Jose. San Jose State area
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=bicycles&sort=rel&search_distance=50&postal=95112&min_price=0&max_price=150
I can travel by car to pick things up, but the closer the better.
Thanks for the help, I appreciate it

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>>1004045
Found this on craigslist, I don't know anything about the brand Puch, but for the price it seems fine. I just need a functional beater bike. Anything nicer is a bonus

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/5765693533.html

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>>1004125
I went ahead and snabbed the Puch in that pic for 40$. tires are rotted to shit, gonna get em replaced. wish me luck boys

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This one for 40€/50$? Would need new parts and restoration but would this make a good commuting bike and maybe some trail training?

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Trek Domane or Specialized Diverge and why? Specifically I'm trying to decide between the Domane S5 Disc and the Diverge Carbon Comp. I've been riding shitty and/or used bikes for a while and I've finally saved my shekels for something brand new. I'd be happily serviced by either bike shop, they are both nearby and have what seem to be very high quality workshops.

Someone has a Schwinn Le Tour III for sale in my area for $65. He just put new tubes and tires on it. I haven't gone and looked at it so I can't say what kind of condition it's in. I'm looking to move up from my shitty dept. store bike and don't have a ton of money to spend, would this be ok? It's mainly going to be used for commuting (under 20 miles) and the occasional longer ride.

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https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/bik/5757070352.html

Trying to get into road cycling, does this look okay, gonna have to replace a bit

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is this bike too small? im 172cm (5'6) this frame is 52cm

>>1004316
Just out of curiosity, have you checked out the new Roubaix? I think it is more comparable to the Domane than the Diverge if you want an endurance geometry bike to use mostly on paved roads.

>>1004750
It's fine

>>1004750
Now a days it's almost impossible for a frame to be too small, you can always adjust the seat post and stem to an enormous degree.

>>1004753
>>1004894
i just feel better on the 52cm even tho it looks too small to me, on the 54cm i feel streched (it looks better desu)
should i get the 54cm and get a short stem+ compact bars?

>>1004923

I'm 6'3 and I ride a 56cm frame. I look like a snorlax riding a clown bike but it's what feels most comfy to me.

Judging by the pic I'd say it fits you fine, better than my bikes fit me for sure.

>>1004923
No, get the 52

>>1004925
as long as you're comfy man, it feels like im in a middle-realm of sizes
the trek website doesn't help too, i wouldn't have thought that bike fitting is that hard

I'm 5'7 and I ride a 50

>>1004947
im 5'6 I ride a 50 usually too
but now i want to buy the trek emonda alr 6 and the website tells me to jump to 54cm :/
http://www.trekbikes.com/sizing/

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>>1004953
No it doesn't

>>1004957
sorry, seems like i got the cheeseburger measurements wrong im 171cm tall

>>1004617
lookin good man

>>1004750
it does look small, id go for the 54cm+compact combo m8

>>1004925
>I look like a snorlax riding a clown bike
I'm actually really curious what someone that tall looks like on such a small frame.

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>>1004925
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWct_KYGRQo

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>>1004925
>Snorlax on a bike

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>>1004970
Shaquille O'Neal on a bike.

>>999908

I have had the 105 alloy for about 1.5 years, ever since I got it is started to ride my pure road bike less and less then eventually sold it (was a diamondback 105 AL frame bike). The grade feels so smooth on the road with those 28mm high volume tires, you feel like you can kind of carve when bombing down the mountain sides (Mt baldy in socal at my door step). The cassette it comes with is super wide at 11-32, especially with that 36-52 mid compact crank, but it works if you descend much, and will climb endlessly when you bite off more than you can chew. Those brakes.... trp's hydraulic by cable is fucking awesome!!! Lots of stopping power, great modulation, I dunno why they aren't on everything over 1k, test ride em! I weigh 190 lbs and they reel me in just fine.

Alright, so now I bought a BMC frame, built that up as a force red mix and I'm back on a Roady when I want to have some fun, but the daily driver and training bike is still the grade, only now it's outfitted with some 32c tires and a revo light setup, it's my night ride bike (I've had cyclists stop their cars turn around and ask about that setup). Now then, on 32c it's a totally different bike, slow as hell so I take it to ride with friends that are kinda slow anyway, I love taking it off road and on the occasional mtb trail, that 32-36 combo will do okay, but that frame will not like steeper loose soil, your rear tire will spin and you'll get stuck (only on some little 10% grades with loose dirt) but you can fly over smoother dirt trails and that's just stupid fun! Lastly and most importantly, with this email tires, those lights and my bag, frame pump ect, the bike weighs 28 lbs!! Not light and you will feel it, but I still ride it out 8 miles to my trail head then back without too much issue.

Soooo, yeah gt grade 105 alloy does everything! If i could have only one bike it would be the carbon version though...

>>1005064
I own a grade 105 AL too, since a few months, 2000km so far and I agree with trp brakes, although to be fair at first they gave me troubles and spent most of the first week fidgeting with them, turns out both brake pads got contaminated at some point or they weren't any good, and had to replace them, after that it was awesome.
I've noticed that when I ride with my 35c (which are more like 38c on my rims) it does slow down the grade quite a bit, and it's also a pity that there's not a bit more clearance for bigger tires, up to 42 I would ask since 40c are really common for gravel. Still for descending mountain terrain I'm guessing with 32-33c should be enough or 28-30c tubeless at low pressure.
I would recommend trying the carbon one, because some say it's a lot more comfortable and the carbon 105 is how they actually design the grade to be, and it shows, you also get thru-axle compatibility on the carbon while the AL ones have just QR, works fine but I get some disc brake rub and small singing when I take curves or I lean, but might be the rotor has slightly warped and has nothing to do with QR, still I regret no getting the carbon because of slightly better components you get and possibility of being more comfortable to ride.

>>1004750
It's absolutely fine.

I'm 179cm and ride a 52cm frame. Depends on your proportions, I have relatively short legs, but I had to change the stem to 11cm.

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I am looking for my first road bike here in Germany and was looking into the Canyon Endurace AL 6.0.
Recently they increased the price from 1000€ to 1100€, I am guessing it's the 2017 model now.
Do you know if anything has changed?
Is it still a great bike for that price?

>>1004925
are u fat or baka?

>>1005167
I bought a Canyon Aeroad a while ago and its a great bike, and customer service is great too.

Theres a recent review of one of the lower end Endurace models on youtube and they say that its a bretty good bike

>>1005133
>>1005064
Did either of you cross shop the Jamis Renegade? Carbon and steel models, TRP HYRDs, rack and fender mounts, clearance up to 40c. Pretty much the perfect bike for me. A little hard to find though; you can get the Grade 105 Alloy with TRP HYRDs off the floor at Sportchek in Canada. No good Jamis model distribution up here.

>>1005167
I don't think they changed anything but it's still fantastically good value. Rose have a bike that's basically the same except with slightly more aggressive geometry and some customization options https://www.rosebikes.com/bike/rose-pro-sl-2000-bike-now/aid:821333

What would be the better commuter build?
>10 speed road bike with drops
or
>single speed rigid MTB 26er with slicks and riser bars

I hope I'm posting in the right place, totally new to bikes. If I ask something dumb feel free to be harsh

I'm looking into taking up biking, but I'm not sure what to look into. Mostly for casual street rides/exercise. I don't want to buy something cheap from walmart that hardly qualifies as a bike, but I'm not looking to spend a grand on something I may not like as much as I think I will.

Thing is I don't live in a very bike-friendly area. Northern GA, there's no bike lanes and traffic is pretty consistent since it's a huge Atlanta commuting spot

Any ideas as to what I should look into, or if I should even bother?

>>1005441
If your commute is like 5km or shorter, and flat, you could go with the SS MTB. Wouldn't go with risers though.
Anything longer or with some climbing, OTS. Or at least a geared MTB.

>>1005441
Without knowing your commute, it doesn't make sense to pick between they two. They're very, very different.

Bad roads, and high theft rate favor the cheaper rigid.

High winds, higher speeds and hills favor the road bike.

>>1005631
North GA has some sweet offroad trails. Look at an entry level hardtail mountain bike, and get road tires. About 400 dollars, give or take.

not sure if right thread, oh well fuck you guys

>girlfriend bought cheapo used bike
>wants to get a lock for it
>she's fixated on a u-lock because "they're the best!"
>the one she's looking to buy is some $100 u-lock, cable combo
>told her to just get some steel chain and a u-lock and save the $70
>she thinks a steel chain isn't strong enough
am I wrong or is she? there's no way you're cutting through a half inch thick steel chain in public without getting caught

>>1005641

You would be completely wrong about not being able to bust the chain without being caught. I'd get a decent cable and two different u locks. Worked well for me except for the time some guy cut the bike rack itself.

>>1005641
Lets see your respective lock choices.

>>1005641
If you're Canadian, MEC has nice heavy locks for $35

>>1005641
Ulocks are preferred because they're like one big steel chain link. They fit snuggly around your frame+wheel+whatever you lock it to, and they're lighter than the equivalent length of chain while also being thicker.
That being said, there's no need for a $100 one. Any Kryptonite, Abus or OnGuard ~$30-40 ulock will do.

>>1005416
I did but had the same problem as you, couldn't find sellers on EU, except one UK store which did have it but sadly, my size had already sold out. I agree that it's a tough choice between those two, I kinda like the jamis design more but not sure which is more comfortable of the two.

>>1005440
Uh thanks, I know that Rose bike (although this was also just 999€ a few weeks back. Why are all the manufacturers raising the prices for basically the same model?).

Would you recommend Rose oder Canyon?

>>1005688
Yeah mate. There's one store in eastern Canada that does stock it but then I have to ask, is slightly larger tires, racks, and real steel worth an extra $800? ($2000 renegade exploit vs $1200 grade 105 alloy) the running gear and brakes are identical otherwise. I dont think there's any other bike in canada rocking 105 for $1200, let alone TRP HYRDs.

>>1004923
I'm about the same height and i run a 48-50cm. Don't know how trek sizing runs though

>>1004752

Yeah I saw the new Roubaix and despite it's cool tech I don't think the geo would suit me as well (broke my neck a few years ago so I need a really relaxed geo). Good suggestion though, thanks!

>>999908
Trying to decide on a budget commuter bike. for the 6 miles I have to bike to work, Settled on a couple of fuji's models or a breezer. Any suggestion?
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1190286_-1___000000
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1190344_-1___000000
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1210171_-1
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product2_10052_10551_1187096_-1

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anyone got any experiences with this bicycle? I'm thinking about buying it, found a used one for 130 euros, it's in excellent shape
a new one costs more than twice as much, seems like a good deal

>>1006670
A shit.

>>1006674
why

>>1006297
Could you swing getting an Absolute with sora? Probably cheaper than the feather, though it is pretty, that's just too much to pay for a city SS.

>>1006670
What kind of riding are you going to do? Does it fit you properly?

It looks like an okay starter bike that will be fine for rolling around town on. It doesn't really look racy and fast and it also looks lame for long distances. No bottle cage mounts or fender mounts but also not really a true track racer either. Parts are pretty basic but probably fine. Can you mount a rear brake?

I would probably want to install a rear brake and change the handlebars.

Could be fun I guess.

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New to bikes. There's a lot of great trails around my area and I'd love to get into it

A small bit of research pointed me towards some entry level mountain bikes, but I thought I'd get some input first. Would this be a decent first bike for someone who's just getting into the hobby?

>>1006676
it's a fixie

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best time of Autumn to buy a used bike (in Europe) ? Soon, isn't it...

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I can get this at a local shop at slightly less than retail. Worth it? I did rest ride it about a half mile, and quite liked it...

A little concerned about fit, I could probably easily size up to a 58 from the 56 I rode, but they didn't have one available.

>>1007400
>alumininiuium fork

>>1006124
Look at the Giant Anyroad. Super relaxed geo and comes in several builds.>>1006124

>>1007405
>sub 700

but yeah.

>>1007400
is there supposed to be a gap between the headtube and fork like that?

>>999908
I'm 5' 7" with a 29" inseam. What mountain bike from here (http://elpaso.craigslist.org/search/bia) would be good to take on some light to moderate trail riding. I have a budget of around $500.

There's a bike sale happening tomorrow near my uni, a local shop is selling refurbished bikes. I haven't had a bike since I was a kid, I just want something to commute around the city on. What kind of bike should I look for and how much should I spend on it?

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Hello /n/
Ive only ever rode rigid mtn bikes and want to get a first bike
Im just getting into cycling, poorly time because unfortunatly winter is coming do Ill have to put some ectra money into this for fenders and some racks. I was hoping I could use this as a short commuter and eventually a touring bike. But Im new so, its this or maybe just saving up for a Fiji Touring. Also I was wondering where the shifters are I cant see them

Inb4 manlet, Im aware.

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/bik/5787749097.html

Blue book says its worth around 800 for whats it worth,

>>1008670
The shifters are integrated into the brake levers.

$350 is the max I'd pay for that bike, assuming the tires were in good shape and everything worked - the frame looks interesting but the drivetrain components are crappy (functional, but bottom of the Shimano line). As for a winter commuter, it's not a great choice for that because there's no mounting points for racks and fenders - there are clip-on fenders you can use on such a road bike, but there's no good option for a rack on that bike. But it'd be fine if you wanted to give road cycling a try and had an alternate bike for commuting in crappy conditions.

>>1008670
The shifters are integrated into the brake levers. And there's no way that thing is worth $800. In fact $350 is still a little steep, but I hear bike prices in Portland are somewhat bloated, so it's about right I guess, as long as everything works as it should and nothing is broken or too worn out.
The fork doesn't seem to have fender eyelets, so bear that in mind.

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>>1008676
>>1008679
theshiftersareintegratedintothebrakeleversmind

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>>1008676
>>1008679

Thank you both very much for the quick response. I don't think Im going to get that bike anymore, I'd rather invest in something better, or maybe see if the ad is up after a while and try to talk him down.

Thanks again you two, and
>>1008682
Isnt me, but he is observant, kek.

>>1007963
Thats the bottom race for the headset. It's not actually as gappy as it looks.

I bought a used Batavus Cibola frame mix-matched with different components.
Shifters are Shimano STX RC, axles and brakes are Shimano Deore (did not manage to identify the model)
Rear tyre is rather new-looking schwalbe, front is some noname garbage.

I'm on a budget, looked for an everyday bike for both commuting and bike trips.
This one was the only 58cm framed bike that wasn't falling apart I could afford.

So how's the Batavus brand quality wise?

>>1008796
Forgot to mention, paid 130 USD for the whole package.

Local co-op is selling some nicer bikes.

What's a reasonable price for the LeMond in this posting?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bid/5790742600.html

>>1008945
$600-800 range

>>1008796
Batavus is like most big brands - they made pro-tier bikes and basic bikes. If the bike came stock with either STX RC or Deore it's solidly mid-tier.

>>1008954
>If the bike came stock with either STX RC or Deore it's solidly mid-tier.
Yes, I think it came stock with STX RC, it seems that is's equipped with entire set of it save for axles and the chainring/crankset (I assume it was damaged, since the seller put some chinese garbage instead as well, so replacing it is my top priority)

>>1008954
>>1008959
And thanks for the advice mate.

"Solidly mid-tier" is more than I expected, so I'm quite satisfied with the purchase.

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Hi /n/
New job dictates a non-bus, non-chevrolegs commute so I've been scanning my local craigslist. Shooting for something poorfagable given I'm basically lacking in any equipment that fits and I know I'll need lights (basically nightshift hours).

https://humboldt.craigslist.org/bik/5783144085.html

I was thinking this might be my best option given it's better-than-the-average-B.S.O.-for-sub-$150 quality in my area.

That said, if someone sees a better option here
https://humboldt.craigslist.org/search/bia
Please don't hesitate to say something.

>>1009098
That Gary Fisher is a good deal if it fits you and everything works.

If you want us to look for more options you'll have to tell us how tall you are.

bought an rb1 today
get jelly fags

>>1009101
Not really expecting jelly unless you've put modern wheels and drivetrain on it.

>>1009100
Whoops
Thought I posted that already.
>5'11"

>>999908
I like my specialized hardrock for trail and gravel.

Hey /n/
I'm looking to buy a bike to commute to university. I currently live in chicago and am 5'7" to 5'8". I've heard the meme about 90s rigid mtbs but I haven't seem to found any on craigslist. After all my searching I could only find one bike that could possibly work for me and that is this...
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5762529754.html
Do you think this is a good buy?
If not do you guys have any recommendations... My budget is actually $300, but I don't want to spend more than I need to for a commuter.
Here is the link to all of the bicylces nearby.
https://chicago.craigslist.org/search/bia
If you guys know of any shops where I can find a good deal on bicycles in Chicago let me know.

Thanks!

>>1009310
You're looking for an MTB to convert it to a more city-friendly bike?
Question is, do you intend to use it for the purpose MTBs were made for? Because that should determine what frame size you will want to aim for.

what about https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/bik/5792529890.html ?
Some americunt should educate me because I have no idea if rand is a walmart brand but for 50 usd almost new it sounds like a bargain.

Altough the crankset looks like thin chinese garbage. I'm heavy, so I wouldn't ride it for sure.

If the tyres are not degraded due to use/sun/air exposure you could probably even resell them to buy some tarmac tyres.

For a basic commuter, the less money you spend on your first bike, the less you will be dissapointed with your purchase (due to less expectations) and you'll get to keep more money for your second, better bike.

And you don't have to invest in a new saddle lol

>>1009310
That Trek 800 is too big for you.

The bike linked here >>1009324
is really crappy, it's not what I'd want to commute on everyday, but it would be okay for a beater bike you'd lock up outside a bar and not really care if it gets stolen.

Here are some better options, cheap and decent quality, your size or close enough:
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/5792186500.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/bik/5770209572.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/bik/5792068835.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/bik/5778137830.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5791941840.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/5777490178.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/5751079627.html
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5784885538.html

>>999908
>I'm looking to get a gravel bike for road and gravel/trail use.

I'm looking to get a grave for death/rotting use. The clock is ticking away and it is coming for you

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>>1009098
>>1009105
Well fuck, owner deleted the posting and now I'm back to square one.

>5'11'' looking for slightly above average B.S.O for commute

I'm currently eyeing pic related for $50
https://humboldt.craigslist.org/bik/5764977804.html

Looking for a road bike to commute to college and for leisure rides. Budget between $300 and $500. Hard limit, unless it's a VERY good deal.

>Height
5'9"

>Inseam
31"

https://orlando.craigslist.org/search/bik

>>1009931
>https://humboldt.craigslist.org/bik/5764977804.html

Bridgestone is a good brand. Cant' tell anything from the photo though.

Rusted chain+crankset+cassette -- all would be deal breakers. And if the wheels aren't true I'd drop it

I have a feeling the thing is rusty and left out in the rain but if not $50 is a good deal

>>1010225

You want this cannondale t700 touring bike

https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5791929069.html

shit pictures are keeping it from selling most likely.

It's a great bike. you can do anything with one. Fast ride, slow ride, ride across the country

>>1010241
>$250
>Orlando
>Country

Looks like a decent bike, but I am willing to spend a bit more for something better. What do you think about https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5782983845.html

>>1010257
that trek is worse
sure it's newer, but it's worse

Looking for a bike to commute to college and for leisure rides. Will be riding on smooth roads 90% of the times but might go for some off-trail biking once in a while. My city is mostly uphill and downhill so want something that's light. Budget upto $250. Can increase to $300 if its a really good deal, otherwise not. I'm student and kinda broke.

I'm 5'11''

https://blacksburg.craigslist.org/search/bia

Help needed people for selecting used bike

>>1010274
pls elaborate

I went to the shop, and the guy is pushing Kona, should I be worried?

>>1010288
Nope. They're a good deal. Probably second to jamis.

Some of konas bikes are niche, but they're all a good deal.

>>1010288
Not unless you were trying to get a road racer. Kona likes dirt.

how much should i shill out on a decent computer, i want something that comes with cadence,speed,HR and can easily sync to strava. Should i go my LBS? or online. Im in canada btw if anyone wants to recommend me something.

>>1010288
Kona is great CX bike, which really is a more aggressive gravel grinder.

Couldn't find the appropriate thread for this so I'll ask here:
I am converting my beeter bike crankset from a triple to a double (with an entirely new crankset and bottom bracket). However, do I also need a new front derailleur or can I make due with the current triple front derailleur via adjusting cable tensions and limit screws? For reference, the drivetrain is an Ultegra 6600 ten-speed.

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Anyone know of an alloy or steel frame comparable in weight to the caad10 track? just want a single speed to pootle about, light as possible, think the caad is 1150g or something.

Should I?

https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5787157858.html

It's my first road bike btw

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Dude selling this carraro
But he doesn't know what model it is
Can someone please id it?

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>>1010900

>>1010828
although a good deal, i do not recommend a TT bike for a first road bike.

>>1010907
I thought so. Can you (or anyone) help me pick out a decent bike from one of these? It seems that everything else is not a good buy (with the exception of the blue trek carbon fiber bike, but he already sold it)

https://orlando.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=road+bike&sort=date&search_distance=50&postal=32837&min_price=200&max_price=500

http://m.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/art/40339768/

Would you buy a bike made by IKEA?

>>1010952
>Somalian engineering

I'd strongly hesitate.

Any reason not to buy this to ride 3.5 mile commute each way? I already have a road bike but don't want it stolen.
http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/2977698.htm

>>1011052
Read the review... better off building a single speed from used parts/bikes unless you need a rack/something with gears in which case buy a secondhand tourer. Think I saw one on gumtree the other day for 150 quid.

>>1010237
Well I bought it
No rust on chain/crankset/cassette but a spot or two on the frame/bars. Probably gonna replace the bars anyway though so no problem there.

idk if this is better in some other general but anyone know of a cheap light set-up?

I saw some $30 320 lumen rechargeables on Amazon just the other day but I'm commuting at 9pm at the earliest.

/biz/nessman here. Commuting by bike everyday and want to upgrade. Winter id around the corner and in my country it gets pretty cold and we have a lot of snow.
How are the bicycle markets behaving? Is it best to buy one in winter when no one is looking for bikes or are there no real seasonal fluctuations?
Thank you in advance

>>1010952
>http://m.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/art/40339768/

The rear is a coast brake.

Carbon belt drives are finnicky and I doubt the ikea one will work well

Probably weights 35 lbs

The headtube basket on the front is aweosme though

>>1012771

Are you going to buy a fatbike?

It probably depends on your area of the world. But the shops want to get rid of their old bikes when the new year's models show up in stores --- they need to clear out the 2016 models

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Should I? What's the max I should bid?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302086573137?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I wanna learn to ride a unicycle and saw this on CL, waddya think? I was thinking of offering $20 for it.

http://newlondon.craigslist.org/bik/5758481705.html

Anyone recommend a good computer for training? how much should i spend? i want to have a HR monitor, cadence, speed and easily syncs with strava. My LBS has this for 270 CAD,

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>>1012987
fuq forgot pic, heres a link to my overpriced LBS.http://www.dornellas.com/ProductDetail2.asp?pid=1696
I want to buy one instead of order online so my parents dont flip there shit when they see i bought an expensive computer.

>>1012902

$276.

>>1012916

surewhynot

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5808350905.html

Good deal?

>>1013063
If you have to ask, the answer is probably no.

The price is okay but there are a whole bunch of issues to be wary of with that frame and front wheel, and you'd definitely need to replace that rear wheel to be compatible with the drivetrain. Seller appears to have done a good job cleaning the bike, but to judge from the ad, their grasp of mechanics is questionable. Caveat emptor.

Quick question form a bike newbie... I use a trek hybrid for my commute to and from university, but the wheel is all wonky whenever I peddle hard. It mostly "lists" to the left, almost touching the frame when I apply a fair amount of pressure. Any help would be a godsend...

>>1013384
Look close at your chainstays, is the frame damaged? If not, then squeeze the spokes on your rear wheel, are some tight and others very loose? Either way, this isn't something that can be fixed over the internet, it really needs to be looked at in real life.

>>1013384
First guess. Check the amount of play in the hub. If it's too loose, you will either need to adjust the tension or replace the bearings.

See park tools and Sheldon brown for specific instructions.

>>1013404
Also check if the rim or axle are bent on the wheel.

>>999908
Can somebody find me a bike?

5'6
nYc
100-150 dollar budget

I want a road bike

Bout to pull the trigger on https://www.reidcycles.com.au/vantage-endurance-2-0-disc.html

It's got 105, decent disc brakes and enough clearance for 28 tires.

Should be enough bike for my commute (haha, it's only like 5km) and weekend rides. If I throw on some beefier wheel/tire combo, would it handle some dirt roads, maybe some relatively smooth, obstacle free, trails? Planning on using it to run my dog during the cooler months.

What do you guys think about this? Was just browsing but this looks like a pretty good deal to me

https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/bik/5803283482.html

>>1013460
looks fine, if you can find a similar bike without memebrakes for a bit cheaper I would go for that

>>1013476
Can' really find anything that has the tire clearance i want unless it has discs. At least in that price range.

I'm not fussed one way or the other when it comes to breaks.

Just excited about buyng my first brand new bike since my haro bmx days as a 14 year old.

>>1000252
>caadx: cyclocross race bike
>crossrip: heavy casualised atrocity

>>1000706
If you mean the alr then yes, its a fucking hectic bike for the dosh

I've been looking on craigslist for a new bicycle for commuting around Orange county and parts of LA. Been looking at brands like Nishiki and Specialized. I've been looking on Craigslist exclusively because my budget is around 350 no higher. Any advise? wh

>>1013647
what should i look for in a bike?

>>1013484
Trek dealer shill here. Can confirm.
CAADX's competitor in the Trek lineup is the Crockett. Crossrip is designed as a dropbar commuter/light tourer (see the rack and fender mounts and 3 bottle cage bosses), so the name is misleading.

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how do you guys stay on the pedals when you do a jump on these bikes? they said to learn on flat pedals but i just don't 'get' it.

>squash rear shock
>pop a wheelie
>???
>bike goes one way, i go another way

>>1013673
I'd imagine you'd put force on both pedals like when you stand on a bike but a bit softer. Like equal and oopposite force.

>>1013679
interdasting.

i also just realized this is bbg and not bqg so thanks for answering.

is cannondale chink-tier, or pretty decent?
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/bik/5781586632.html

I've been looking for a used bicycle that would be good for a beginner around LA and wanted to get /n/'s opinion of the listing below. I'm comfortable spending up to $250 on a bike, but just want to make sure I'm not wasting my money. Any advice would be appreciated

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/5819490422.html

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>>1013673
You aren't ever pulling up the bike with your feet to bunnyhop, so it doesn't matter what kind of pedals you use. You are using the bike like a lever, you pull up on the bars while pushing down with your feet. Since the distance between your hands and the bottom bracket is longer than the bottom bracket to rear axle your body is now moving upwards. Now you allow the bike to move up underneath you by just lifting your legs. You aren't going to be able to think critically about it to learn, just keep practicing

looking for a city bike, will be my first time buying a bike (also not a regular on that board) so no idea about what I'm buying
budget has to be under 500-600 euro
something light that can also go up or down a slope street without any problems

>>1016005
that's not a bad start.
if you go check it out, just make sure all the bearings spin without clicking or gritting.
and shift all the way through the gears, top to bottom, check if they slip

>>1016169

Thanks for the advice, went and picked it up today. Some cosmetic parts were a bit rough but not a big deal. I've never used stem shifters before so I'll have to get used to that. Going to go get it tuned up and hopefully ride it for a while.

>>1002231
>>1002255
I dunno, I live in Chicago and you couldn't get a toasted bean sprout for three hundred bucks, let alone a serviceable bike. Too many flippers, hipsters, clueless beaners, etc etc... Bike market here is hot garbage with a heaping side of "I KNOW WHAT I GOT"

>>1016470
>>1002143
>Trek 470
And what he's got is a 10 year old aluminum frame. I'd pass.

I'm 100% new to this so pls no bully if this is a dumb question but I like going /out/ and would like a light bike I can maybe fold but def wear on my back when i'm not riding it.
Would like it to be durable but cheap (down to build my own if need be) and it would mainly be used just for easy transport like when I wanna cycle back somewhere or whatever.
Wont be used for say, racing deer or fleeing from bigfoot

Folding offroad mountain bikes don't go with light or cheap. Start by looking at the Montague Paratrooper. They tried making something called the Bergmonch, but they went bankrupt.

>>1016563
>Would like it to be durable but cheap
>Would like to be a millionaire and also be able to fly

>>1016563
honestly, if you want a portable folding bike that won't fall apart, nothing beats a brompton

prepare to be blown away by the price tag though

I know how to ride a bike other than that I am a noob and know nothing. I'd like to buy a bike because I'd like to get into biking but I live in the suburbs and it's mainly roads etc, what sort of bike should I look for?

>>1016774

If it's mainly roads, road bike.

I would suggest that you buy a bikeboom bike cheap off of craigslist. Don't drop a shitton of money on a hobby that you might quit. If you buy a 1980's Japanese-made road bike for $150 and never end up riding much, you can resell it pretty quickly for the same price. Not so if you spend 800 on a brand new entry level roadie, and have to eat a $400 loss trying to sell it used.

As a bonus, if you DO end up really liking the sport, you can buy a higher performance machine for serious rides and keep the old steelie for commuting/grocery runs/smoking freds.

Hello lads

I used to ride a Hybrid every day for about two years until one day I was hit by a car, and knackered my head, starting hearing and seeing things, as well as a bit of fear of bikes.

Anyway, I finally got over my fear, and well I wanted to look into another bike. I really did enjoy cycling, and I wanted to get something lighter, and more road bike oriented, but something that will last.

I was looking at this Trek bike. I'm a bit of a gear fag, I've always had a thing for Trek.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Trek-Domane-4-0-C-Road-Bike-56cm-Carbon-Shimano-Tiagra-105-Bontrager-/381808898668?hash=item58e595726c:g:fgMAAOSwLF1X7qM~&autorefresh=true

Reasons I think I should get it is that it's very stiff and light, and so it would be rather agile, which was an issue on my hybrid. It's got the isospeed decoupler so it should have a smoother ride. I can afford it, and I know these class of bikes are expensive. I'm just wondering if I've gone off the deep end here. I probably plan to buy it, and only replace the consumables and just ride it till I hit something hard enough to damage the carbon frame. Is this an okay price to pay?

>>1016825
That's a fucking badass bike, so that's good.
One thing I might suggest though, is before you drop that kind of money, since you haven't ridden in a while and you had a bad experience before, it may be worth getting a cheap OTS or 90s rigid mtb off of craigslist and riding it for a couple weeks just to make sure that you're sure you are ready to get back into it. Then you can keep the cheap bike around as a beater for winter

>>1016829

My local bike shop allowed for a rental for two weeks, the first day was tilting as all hell, but after the fourth or so felt more normalized so I think once I get used to it I should be fine.

I was utterly stunned with how far I've fallen in the last year, my lungs just don't feel up to the job I've asked them to do. The bike was some steel road bike which felt really odd getting used to the droops, once you sort of trust in the fact you're not going to fall, the position isn't that bad, but I felt better on the bars most of the time, but to get to the brakes I had to go into the droops for the corners.

The only thing I can't seem to do anymore is take my arms off of the handlebars and ride, which is probably a mental thing.

>>1016838
Nice

Yeah, you lose cardio endurance really fast after a while not riding or running. You'll build it up fast though, and you should still have most of your strength left in your legs, that takes a really long time to go away.

Try riding on the hoods for now until you're more comfortable in the drops. I would stay away from riding on the tops too much because handling sucks like that.

Riding without hands is a lot about the smoothness of your pedaling, which will just take some getting used to. Just focus on trying to keep your pedal stroke smooth and consistant, don't pump

>>1016854

Another question since it doesn't come with pedals. The only pedals I've bought are just one's I picked up at Walmart when I broke one once.

Are clipless pedals necessary? I didn't think so, but when I asked the guy at the shop he really pushed them. I figured it was to try and make a sale. I read it was better for power, as you can pull up with another leg, and well there was the thought in my mind, I'd feel a bit more connected so I could possibly get better road feel, but I'm not sure if that's just overthinking.

But is there a "good" pedal (clipless) or can just anything really work as long as my foot fits on it.

>>1016825
>>1016829
>>1016854

My last post (thank you for the advice /n/) is while I have the money to spend on that Trek, I realize how nice that bike will truly be, but I can't stop looking at this bike. It's so much cheaper and well it's nearly as light. It's aluminum, so it probably has more flex, and it doesn't have the iso speed decoupler, but it does have a carbon seatpost. So it's not going to ride as smooth, but well, it's basically 400 dollars spread over at least a three year period.

If you could would you get the trek? Or this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Fuji-Roubaix-Road-Bike-56cm-LARGE-Aluminum-Shimano-105-Ultegra-Wheels-/351871925340?hash=item51ed337c5c:g:kfAAAOSwCGVX4FBc

>>1016863

It helps, but unless you're racing it doesn't really matter.

My advice on clipless pedals is always this: look at your bike. What is it built for? If racing, get racing pedals(clipless.) If it's commuting, recreation, errands, either platform pedals, pedals with toeclips, or mtb clipless pedals at the very most.

The Domane is clearly built for racing, it would look really strange with flat pedals. If you insist on avoiding pedals designed for racing, do not get a racing bike, simple as that.

>>1016870

Aluminum is stiffer, in theory. In practice I personally cannot tell the difference at all between frame materials. Tire choice will affect ride quality more than anything else.

The Fuji is not only 400 cheaper, the parts are newer and of higher quality. Ultegra wheels, 105 5700 groupset vs Bontrager OEM wheels and mostly Tiagra 4600.

Any advice for a poorfag needing a bike for daily riding? What's the cheapest I can get a reliable bike for, would it be better for me to fix up/build a bike or to buy something from Bikes Direct or something?

I'm moving to Phoenix AZ on Nov 1st on an extreme budget and I'm going to need something to get to work with. I already have a job and I'm moving there because it's a much cheaper cost of living there than it is where I currently am.

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Which one seems the most enticing?
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/5820767756.html 2013 caad10 105 $900
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/5823021111.html 2013 synapse tiagra $650
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/5823011267.html 2009 allez sora $500
I will probably put a pannier on whatever I get, or use a backpack. I'm 6'2" and have no experience with road bikes. I've been using my Giant Hybrid for over a year for the 7.5 mile paved road commute and it's pretty good, but it seems most road bike people pass me easily.

Im about to buy this from someone called Amin for 30€
Pics related is all the info I have

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>>1017043
Front tire is all wear out

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>>1017044
Dude doesnt even talk to me anymore wtf
Amin where the fuck are you

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https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/bik/5820574932.html

One of you fuckers go and buy #8 on this list.

https://moosegooses.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/20130820-072406.jpg

>>999908
When did Soma start selling at Walmart?
Is that why everyone and their moms are building wolverines these days?

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>>1017045
well, it seems Amin didnt want to sell his bike after all

how do you see this other mtb for 50€?
Can anyone tell if the tires are 26"?
They look a bit smaller, maybe 24"?, the dude doesn't even know

>>1017882

Why would anyone even look at that piece of shit?

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>>1017939
>>1017882
never mind, it's already in my possession
Shit ass tier mtb confirmed, but is the best 50€ can get me over here and it's actually better than I expected. Thieves are going to steal it anyway.
Now how do I rice it? Do I remove stickers?

>>1017945
>Thieves are going to steal it anyway
Why do you even get a bike with that mentality?

>>1017973
because its an actual problem where i live
It doesn matter the bike or the lock
it gets stolen, ive had two of them gone already
so better go the cheapest possible so your lost isnt big

>>1017990
South America? IfeelyouBro.jpg

>>1017990
Gee, that's awful...I wonder who is buying all these stolen bikes ?

>>1016779
thanks for the advice I definitely don't want to spend more than $100

>>1018062
Where do you think he got his 'cheapest possible' bike from?

What options do I have for a almost-road geo, up to 35 or 40c tire, disc braked, fender AND rack mount bike? I'd like just one bike to do everything I need. It rains lots here, so fenders are a must. I hate commuting with a bag, so racks would be nice. I'm gonna fall for the disc brake and fat tire meme. The road geo is because at the end of the day, gotta go fast, I don't want a full on touring bike.

GT Grade is the cheapest option; 1500 gets me TRP HYRDs, 35c tires, 105 5800, and fender mounts, but no rack mounts.
Trek 720 is $2000, but comes with its own front fork bags, fits fenders and racks, 105 and HYRDs again.
Jamis Renegade Exploit is $2000, has fenders and rack mounts, 105 and HYRDs, steel is real, and fits wide tires.
The Specialized Diverge, Giant Revolt, Kona Jake, and Cannondale doesn't really have a mid-range model competitive with the above.


What other bikes am I missing?

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/bik/5834443308.html

is good deal?

>>1018345
All-city space horse?

>>1018345
Diamondback Haanjo?

>>1019028
>alu
>sram
>little to no tire clearance
>shit fender bosses
>no rack bosses
no don't do it

>>1018345
I was going to say the haanjo is pretty dope
the fuji touring bike is pretty wimpy as far as touring bikes go and is definitely cheap enough.
There's always the straggler as a fine option.
The renegades are pretty sweet.
uhh, I'd go with the renegade if I had to choose one, upgrade it as needed.

>>1019028
ayy I'm from santa cruz too I was looking at that listing last night

>>1019042
I've seen a lot of posts formatted that way with "dialed in and ready to ride", so I wonder if it's stolen. Not sure.

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Another option out there. Van Dessel WTF. $699 frame set.

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>>1019093
>Van Dessel

So I live in SF where commute is hell.

I'm in the market to get my first commuter bike. Any recommendations? I don't think I'll be biking up steep hills, but I will have to encounter some here and there, but general use will be on the road.

Budget is probably <$1000.

This a good deal?
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/bik/5810058410.html

>>1016936
Glorious. Nippon. Steel.

A Japanese bike from the late 80s will be super reliable and simple to fix. For under $150 easily

Whats a good mid level/non-crap road bike? Something in the 500+ range

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Is there an actual guide or resource to pick out a bike? I'm just getting started with all this and a guide would be nice.

>>1019619
There's not really an infographic or anything, we really should make one.
There's some good general information on how to measure and asses the value of old bikes here:
http://sheldonbrown.com/selling.html

There's a lot of different uses and styles of bike, and there's good options in pretty much any price range, what are you looking for?

>>1019517
fuji touring perhaps ?
it is a full on touring bike but i mostly commute on mine - perfect for carrying stuff and super comfy.

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Had some really great responses from these threads so far;

this bike looks promising, and while I wasn't planning on spending this much, it seems to come with most all the bells and whistles, though it is almost 4 years old now. It looks maintained, but is the price worth it?
$750

>>1019093

Cute frame

>>1020114
as a commuter rig or light/moderate touring rig that would be a pretty good buy
its about the ame price as a new fuji touring but with dick brakes, fenders, and racks in front and back its a bit better of a deal

if its the right size for you go for it

For a commuting bike is a touring bike better or is a road bike better? I probably go on a hour to 3 hour commute on bike. I'm thinking of buying a fuji touring for the touring bike option. What would be the best sub $800 option for a good road bike?

>>1020434
if your roads are at all rough or you have to carry much with you I wouldn't recommend a road bike for commuting

road bike tires are also much more likely to get a flat than lower tpi touring bike tires

another option, if you want to save money, is a 90s rigid mtb with slicks. those old mtbs are almost like modern touring bikes but they're cheap and 3x7 parts cost nothing to replace