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/bqg/ - Bike Question General

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Use this thread for questions that don't deserve their own thread.

Old Thread: >>990009
>>
yo /n/iggas, I've got an old Raleigh Delta that I bought from some guy off Kijiji. I'm going to throw some new pedals on it, already redid the brake pads and I'm in the process of replacing brake and shifter cables. Couple of questions:

1) - in the 5th cog and the 7th cog (lowest gear, sometimes the 6th as well) the chain slips off the chainring and it's almost like the teeth of the chainring just spin while the chain is just barely off the ring. I've got two front chainrings with no front derailleur - this seems to be stock. Is there a term for this issue, and what could be causing it? Rear derailleur not behaving properly, somehow? I checked the chain and it's not worn out just yet. Half-debating replacing the entire drivetrain, but...
2) This bike was originally a 12 speed - it's now got Alex DM18 mountain bike rims on it and it has a 7 speed cassette on the back. The shifter is a shimano, as is the cassette, both the proper speeds, but the shifter requires two clicks to get out of 2nd gear, whereupon it jumps to 4th - this is the only goofy shit going on with the shifting. What could be happening here? Also, is the cassette and wheel setup fucked the way it is?

Thanks.
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i'm tired of drop bars what are some memetastic bar configurations
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>>992788

Euro-style touring bars
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>>992788
Are you man enough to try flat bars?
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>>992786

If your bike was originally a 12 speed, no front derailleur definitely is not stock set up. Sounds like a hot mess of a bike. Are you sure the shifter is 7 speed and not 6?
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hi viz helmet? Yes? No?
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>>992819

If you like the color, yes. Doesn't matter otherwise.
>>
>>992819
Didn't you ask this in the last thread? It's completely up to you, unless you're buying it for one of us...I'd rather have a white helmet.
>>
>>992788
MTB bars with bar ends are pretty fun and have vertical hand positions.

>>992790
Aren't moustache bars usually flat? Also the amount of ris on that is triggering me.
>>
>>992819
If it matches your kit, yes
Otherwise, no.
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>>992819
might attract bees but other than that i don't see why not.
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>>992832
maybe
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i want to install new brake calipers on my old gas pipe, i already did it on the front and succesfully drilled the fork. However i'm not sure about drilling for the rear brake... Will this damage my frame integrity ? will i die horribly ?

Also i'll put new wheels so i'll have to stretch out the rear dropout a little bit, does this come into the equation ?
>>
I bough myself a new (second) bike, but I'm now thinking about getting another one (optimally, to replace my old commuter) and maybe some other too.
How do I stop thinking about buying new bikes?

>>992831
>MTB bars
Too fucking wide.
>>
>>992854

If you're not going to ride it at least once a week for the rest of the duration that you own the bike, don't buy it.

I suppose this rule might not stand for people that live in areas where it snows kek
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So I always thought the tires on my bike looked pretty big. Upon further investigation they are 700x30. Should I get 25 tires, would there be any benefit to it or am I hindering myself in any way using 30 tires? I'm not doing any offloading and have gotten my daily rides up to 20 miles.
>>
>>992853

You can drill the rear brake mount no problem, or do what I did and buy tektro brakes with the non-recessed nut.

If you replace the brake pads with koolstops they work just fine.
>>
>>992856
The tread and overall makeup of a tyre is far more important than width for speed. A good 30 is better than a shitty 25 and vise versa, but these days if my bike could fit it I'd definitely choose the 30 (or maybe even wider).
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>>992853
Can you post a pic of the job in front brakes?
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>>992860
not at the moment, why do you need that ?

>>992857
i've already bough the brakes so drilling it is
>>
>>992856

Right now the trend is wider tires, some pros use 28c for certain races(almost every rider in the roubaix is riding 28s with a few even opting for custom 30c rubber.)

Moreso than something like width, look at the weight of your tires. Gram for gram the best place to remove weight on your bike is the point where your bike meets the road(rims, wheels, etc.) What brand and model of tire are you using? Is it wire bead? If so I'd bet it weighs somewhere in the realm of 400g or so. You can get racing tires in 28c that weigh under 300g, figure minus 100gx2, nearly half a pound gone across two tires.
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>>992862
I'm using what ever comes standard on the Specialized Diverge A1. They seem pretty damn sturdy. I've just never heard of 30c tires before which is why i was asking.
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I've had my bike for nearly a month now so I figure it's time to start getting tools. I plan to go to the LBS and get tubes and a hand pump but what are other essential tools I must have? I have absolutely nothing right now save for a standard Philips/flat head screw and some needle nose pliers.
>>
>>992875
tyre levers and a patch kit
hex keys
a torque wrench if your bike has any carbon

I'd strongly recommend having a pump with a pressure gauge, if the hand pump doesn't (and honestly, even it does, pumping up tyres by hand is miserable) then definitely consider a track pump as well.
>>
>>992855
Yeah mate, but a NEW commuter.
New and sexy Fuji Touring commuter.
[spoiler]And a full-sus mtb. And maybe even a 'bent for extra memes.[/spoiler]

>I suppose this rule might not stand for people that live in areas where it snows kek
Yep. I usually don't ride thru November-January.
>>
>>992890
>>I suppose this rule might not stand for people that live in areas where it snows kek
>Yep. I usually don't ride thru November-January.
you can ride trails on your mtb in the winter

just remember to wash all the road salt off it between use if you're riding to-and-from or using an external (non-roof) rack to shuttle
>>
>>992893
I don't even have an mtb, mate.
Yet.

Besides, I hardly have space for the two I own and cleaning/maintenance is a bitch as it is after commuting in heavy rains. Salty snow-mud is a no go.
>>
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Could I have some advice?

I have cracked spokes on the rear wheel of my OTS commuter, and the rim is damaged too, because I had to ride the bike home. Unfortunately it can't be fixed, I would have to get a new wheel, cassette, derailleur and rear brake, because rims of that size (630mm) are no longer made, and no one sells them around here. I have been commuting on an old borrowed mountainbike in the meantime, but I need to get new bike.

Repair of the old bike would cost me around 100€ minimum, so I am considering abandoning my trusty old beater and getting a new bike. The thing is I am pretty broke and have only about 200-300€ to spare for the bike.

I could get a new cross bike of proper size, like pic related, for around 300€, the components are pretty trash (alloy frame, Altus derailleur, Suntour fork, no name brand wheels and brakes).

I also thought of buying some used rigid mountainbike, but there are a few issues I have with buying second hand - I'm 186cm (6,1' for burgers), and majority of bikes that are sold used around here are either for kids, women or manlets. Another issue is that people clearly have no fucking idea what to charge for a bike, I see old beaten to death mountainbikes for sale for hundreds, or 54cm road bikes for literally thousands of euros. There is very little hope of buying used bike.

Regardless of what sort of bike I'll get (28" cross, or 26" hardtail/rigid mtb) there will be need to make some modifications. I got really used to drop bars and road bike geometry, so the flat bars will suck, and I thought maybe getting drop bars some time later on and converting the brakes/shifters to suit them could be done relatively cheap, the question is if it's even worth it if the bike won't last more than a year or two.

Anyway, if anyone here has experience with buying cheap bike and modifying it for every day commuting, I would like to hear some opinions and advice as to what should I do, because I really don't know.
>>
>>992927
Why would you need a new cassette and RD?
>>
>>992929
Because the bike is pretty old and I don't have the tools to remove the casette from the old wheel.
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>>992788
literally you hate cycling. Get a death cage and move to /o/.
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>>992927
Don't get that supermarket piece of shit.
>and I thought maybe getting drop bars some time later on and converting the brakes/shifters to suit them could be done relatively cheap
No, that's relatively expensive.
>>
>>992927
For cheap stuff look for a co-op or just ask around at bike stores; they'll likely have a decent rear wheel for you, maybe used, and priced reasonably. 630 is still made btw - you could pick up a wheel online also.
Or you could go with a 700c or 622.rim instead - again, same deal just ask around.
If fitting 700c, you'll likely have to re-space your frame (easy - youtube has videos on this) and maybe fit a new rear brake calliper if the old doesn't reach - you can measure and check that now.
You might have to get a new cassette if you have a freewheel on your old wheel (newer stuff is cassette) but see what you find. A Cheap cassette will be maybe $20 or so around my ways, the tool about $8, and if you're just threading one on you can get away without using it.
Save your old bike - it fits and has served you well. Nothing really against buying new stuff and re-working it but the mods you suggested will cost much more than you think, you might end up with a much less useful bike also.
>>
I've seen a bunch of tire recommendations here already, but I was a retard and forgot to save any. Could you guys recommend some tires for road use? I'm looking at 23c.
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>>992991
conti gp4ks2 or schwalbe one

get 25 instead if your bike fits it
>>
>>992991
Conti GP4000
Michelin Pro 4
Veloflex Master
Specialized Turbo
Vittoria Rubino Pro
>>
>>992861
>why do you need that?
I'm assuming that they want to see if you're human trash or actually managed to do a good job. Now I'm curious too...
>>
I currently have a 17 degree stem. I want to move to a 6 degree stem to have better options to get more aggressive position as my flexibility improves. How do I convert stem length at 17 degrees to stem length at 6 degrees to maintain roughly the same reach?
>>
>>993005
simply draw both out full size and measure - you'll need a protractor to get the right angle.
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>>993005
You know you can flip the stem, right? Do that and the 17 degree will give you a more aggressive (lower) position.

If my math is correct then a 100mm flipped stem would give a reach of 99.45mm if 6 degrees and 95.63mm if 17 degress, so fuck all difference really. The difference in height will be much more noticeable.
>>
>>993009
I don't have the flexibility for a flipped slammed stem, and a flipped 17 degree stem with spacers under seems like it would look incredibly silly. I'm not a weight weenie, so a new aluminum stem would be like 20 or 30 dollars, which isn't a huge deal for me.
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>>993013
What is your current setup? Post a photo.
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>>993015
Can't at this moment. I have a 110mm 17 degree stem, my headset has 2 10mm spacers and 2 5mm spacers. I currently run 15mm of spacers above and below my stem.
>>
>>993025
In my opinion a flipped better than one with rise on road bikes, whether it has spacers under it or not.

If it was me I'd go with a flipped 6 degree stem and put more spacers under it if you need to, then you can progress to slamming it if you want as you improve. Then if you really wanted something more aggressive you could slap the 17 degree stem on to get even lower.

Another thing that can look good is having the stem parallel with the ground so the 17 degree would match up with around a 73 degree head angle, or parallel with the top tube which will depend on your particular frame but the 6 degree may be close.
>>
>>993033
I'll try that this evening. I was planning on going for a ride after work anyways.
>>
> Haven't had a bike in years
> Need to get a bike to get to gym/can use it for getting to uni/will be nice to ride around
> gf has cool road bike (she does triathlete stuff)
> Give it a test run, really fun to ride

I've found myself infatuated with road bikes. I've convinced myself that I need a carbon fork, shimano 105 groupset etc.

Am I being dumb? I really like them but I'm not sure if I can justify spending that much on a bike which I'll probably just use to get around. I mean maybe I'll go on long trips eventually but do I even need such an expensive bike for that? What are the alternatives? Just go to a bike shop and get a second hand MTB? Na man, I can't do that, that's not how I work.

TL;DR Recommend a good beginner road bike
>>
>>993055
go to the bike buying general thread. Also I highly recommend buying used for your first road bike until you have a better idea what you want out of a bike.
>>
>>993055
Nothing wrong with having a nice bike even if it'll take you a while to be strong and experienced enough to really appreciate it. I'd recommend one of the basic Specialized Allez models.
>>
>>993056
>>993057
Thanks guys.

>>993056
I did have a look at various ads but the only bikes I was interested in, were either too big or too small.
>>
>>993060
get a beater for commuting, having an entry level road bike for commuting and letting it outside is a lil too risky.
>>
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What's the deal with GB's track team's forks?
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>>993082
they put 700x32 cyclocross tires in the off season, duh
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>>993082
I am just going to guess. Probably has to do with vortexes and aerodynamics and stuff. Those incremental gains.
>>
>>993082
Some bicycle designers and engineers claim the wider forks don't disrupt the airflow from the wheels as much, creating less drag than traditional fork design
See: Pinarello
I imaginr that idea inspired these bikes
>>
>>993082
TITEGAPZFAGS ON SUICIDE WATCH
>>
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>>993082
>he doesn't know about grass track.
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>>993117
>>
Are those bikesdirect bikes any good? I figure they're assembled poorly, but the specs on their Ti frames look kinda nice for the price...
>>
>>993055
normally i wouldnt answer you and i'd tell you to go to the bike buying general but you didnt create an entire new thread so you're good

You're not being dumb. 105 is a FANTASTIC groupset. Not just for beginners. I reccomend it because there really isn't a 'ceiling' to it. For me the upgrade to Ultegra is pretty marginal.
As for carbon forks, those are pretty much commonplace on any road bike, even 700 dollar claris bikes have em.

Another anon reccomended the Specialized Allez. That's a great choice. They have a 105 model that's fantastic. It's middle of the road, not an endurance bike, not a race bike.

If you gotta go fast and want something more aggressive and fast I reccomend the Cannondale CAAD12. Phenomenal bike. They're both great bikes, not just starters, but really well performing and won't hold you back.

make your way to a bike shop, have em figure out your size, and take some for a test ride

also understand a bike like this, 105 nice quality aluminum road will run you around 1,500 dollaroos from a good brand like specialized or trek or cannondale
>>
>>993119
Good? No.
They're small brands and cheap bikes for a reason.

having said that, are they BAD? Not really. Just know what you're getting.
The thing about BD bikes is they're great on paper. Those components at that price is pretty sweet. But what you can't put on paper is the quality of the frame, the feel of it, etc.
>>
>>993127

So basically get them if you want a beater but don't wanna go used? I rode a steel one that my roomie had in college and it wasn't bad at all, just heavy as fuck.
>>
>>993128
get one if you know for sure what you're getting yourself into

and yeah, that bike was heavy as fuck because it's a bikes direct steel bike. Surly steel bikes will end up being like 26 lbs

they're just cheap because the frames are sub-par. Not awful. They wont fall apart after a month or even a year like walmart bikes.
If you wanna save bucks there's better ways to do it. buy used.

thing is, you can't really upgrade a frame, it's the most important thing for a bike, you gotta be careful.

And i've never met anyone who's regretted getting a nice bike, or wish they spent a few hundred less. Only people who regret not getting something nicer.
>>
>>993129

I've already got a few higher end bikes, and go touring a lot. Im really just curious about some of those discount brands. Right now I'm looking at lynskeys ti cx bikes. Never really gave that material much thought in the past but I have a pretty fat bonus coming in so...
>>
>>993131
TI was super cool in the early 2000s, but now carbon fiber does what ti does better
>>
>>993132

I just like saying titanium. I already have carbon and aluminum bikes. Just no steel or ti
>>
>>993104
doesn't titegaps strictly speaking refer to really narrow handlebars
>>
>>993119
Sometimes. But you need to know what you're getting and where they're cutting costs. Sometimes it's drivetrain parts from a generation or two ago.

Frequently the wheelset is relatively crappy.

>>993128
Or if you want something your local suppliers don't carry or would charge you out the ass for.

The frames are the same entry to mid level maxway and kinesis stuff on the lower tiers of the big brands. Their surly LHT clone uses the same frame specs but is a bit looser on paint quality qa for example..

The CF is consistently a generation or two behind.
>>
I've been using 700c tubes on 27 x 1 1/4 rims since it's all my lbs had. i've read that they're "okay" to use but i feel like i've been getting more flats than usual


is it worth it to buy more specifically sized tubes or should i just deal with the flats?
>>
I have been gifted a bike that I'm planning to use as a beater for shopping etc. but it has no braze-ons for a pannier rack, what's my best bet?
>>
>>993239
There are packs that attach to the seat post, or the qr skewer, or p-clamps on the frame proper. You have a bunch of choices.
>>
>>993221
TITECLEARANCE
>>
I want to conver my tiagra gravel to a single-speed, can I leave two chainrings in front?
>>
>>993134

I would strongly argue against getting a Ti bike from a manufacturer that doesnt specialize in Ti welding.

Case in point, Colnago tried their hand at making Ti frames in the early 90s in house. They had a reputation for snapping like pocky at the chainstay welds.

Lynskey, Seven, Merlin, Moots, Dean, or any company that outsources their Ti frame production to one of these companies(more than you might suspect.)
>>
>>993239

Building on what the other replier said, axiom makes a very sturdy pannier rack that attaches to your skewer. I recommend against the p-clamp route.

http://www.axiomgear.com/products/racks/streamliner/
>>
My friend is trying to get me to go MTB with him on the hills nearby but he doesn't go regularly and I don't know if I would. Problem is I've been saving for a road bike for a while and I'm struggling to justify buying an MTB that might get little use. How cheaply can I get one and any necessary peripherals, do you reckon? I'm thinking of getting the shoes anyway for general use.
>>
>>993291

What type of terrain are these hills?
>>
>>993292
Nothing too harsh, not that rocky really - mostly mud and tree roots that I can think of.
>>
I have clipless shoes that I try to make a habit of using every once in a while but I can never seem to make them comfortable. I've fiddled with the cleat position a lot but after several days of using them I get discomfort in my knees. Any advice?

>>993287
You can. You'll need a single speed kit to replace your cassette (it's just a bunch of spacers and one cog) and it should let you align the chainline with either chainring depending on what gear ratio you want (by rearranging the spacers). You'll also need a chain tensioner, or you can use your existing derailleur, assuming you have vertical dropouts.
>>
>>993287
If you're too retarded to use a double crankset just don't touch the front shifter.
>>
>>993238
700x28 tubes are the same size as 27 x 1 1/4. Tube size is not the issue. Make sure you're inflating your tires properly and that your tires aren't shit. Also make sure you find what caused the punctures you're getting. If you have something sharp stuck in the tire which is causing the punctures and you're not removing it when you swap tubes, obviously it'll keep puncturing the new tubes.
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>>993296

Hardtail should do you, then. An okay used one on craigslist should run you ~300-400. If you're on a super tight budget you could try riding an old rigid MTB, those are very common and usually worth under $100.
>>
>>993303
I'm not 100% sure as I've never used clipless but I think knee pain can be caused by not having enough float in the pedal (how much you can rotate the your foot, heel in and out, without unclipping). I had a similar issue once even when using flat pedals, the trainers I was wearing had super grippy soles so my foot was stuck solid in one position and it was hell on my knees after just a short ride.
>>
>>993122
Thanks for your answer. I've calmed down a bit and I think I'll get a second hand road bike for the time being. I don't think I need the speed at the moment and I probably won't even be able to tell the difference between groupsets although it will kind of suck going on bike rides with my gf as she has Ultegra, carbon fiber everything etc.

Now for a question that does belong in this thread:

Seeing how I'm going to go for a second hand bike and have never owned a road bike before ,I'm concerned about how I'm going to find a good fit. I tried being a bit cheeky and going to some bike shops and asking if they could work out my fit but they said they'd do it if they were going to order in a bike I'm looking to get. I'm not going to be a dick and say no at the last second.

I'm 177cm so 5'9/5'10. My gf is just a bit shorter than me with longer legs and she uses a 54cm frame. I think I have shortish arms.

TL;DR How do people make sure a second hand road bike will fit them well
>>
>>993333
By reading a measurements table and then test riding the bike before purchasing it
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>>993334
I did and I came out 54/56/58 depending on the bike. The second hand bike I'm looking at is 56cm. How will I know if it fits when I try it out? Everyone goes on about how important having a fitted bike is so I want to make sure I get it right.
>>
>>993033
ended up actually doing this yesterday, bike feels bretty gud. nice 30 mile ride after work, PR'd a fair number of segments. Thanks for the advice!
>>
>>993082
>those teeth though
>>
>>993338
As long as you can stand over the top tube and have an inch or so between your groin and the tube, it should be fine. Also do a quick saddle height adjustment (with the heel-on-pedal rule of thumb) and ride around a bit, see that you're not TOO stretched out front (to the point there's too much weight on your hands). If it's not too bad, it can always be fixed with fore/aft saddle adjustment, and stem length.
>>
>>993333
>>993362
Top tube to groin distance is only relevant as a ballpark on older frames with classic geometry which have a horizontal top tube. It's completely irrelevant on anything modern.
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>>993308
What sort of names should I be looking for when it comes to frames etc? I feel overwhelmed.
>>
>>993288

I've actually been looking at the Lynskey bikes. Kinda wanna get one of their CX models and get S&S couplers on it. I fly a lot, and I'm tired of either being ass raped by the airlines to ship a bike or being jewed by rentals.

Think getting a small frame and having looong stem etc. would work? I have a super short inseam so that's what most of my other bikes are like anyway. I'm going back and forth via email with those guys to get their opinions too.
>>
Looking to build my brother a vintage 12 speed out of some kind of fuji or nishiki road frame. He is 5'9 with 30 in seam. What size frame? A 21 or a 23 (56 or 58cm)
>>
Garmin Edge 25 vs some more full-featured head units from less reputable brands as a first head unit?
>>
How's this bike frame for someone who wants a very light fame without spending a lot? It says it's under 1400 grams.
http://s.aliexpress.com/jmeyUVZn
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>>993484
>http://s.aliexpress.com/jmeyUVZn
>1380g
>light
You do know that there are a lot of steel frames under 1.5kg right? That's pretty hefty considering it's carbon.
>>
>>993485
My bad, it isn't carbon. Still heavy when you consider alu from larger manufacturers have framesets below 1kg for endurance bikes
>>
>>993487
I know, man. But this steel frames are fucking expensive, aren't they?
>>
>>993487
>>993491
STEEL IS REAL
>>
>>993495
And quite expensive, yo.
>>
How do I get a gf if I ride a bike instead of driving a car?
>>
>>993510

It's impossible.

Here's what you need to do:buy a car, gain 150 pounds, complain about how women don't want nice guys, kill yourself.
>>
>>993510
get a hipster gf
>>
>>993510

pick up a recumbent and get a boyfriend instead.
>>
How risky is it to buy bike shoes online? after going to 4 cycling stores today, they didnt have much. the foot jig says im 43 but one of the guys who helped me says he prefers to go a size up since your foot expands, all the 44s i tried fit well and were comfy. should i just do it?
>>
>>993541

Go with 44, then. One thing to note, sizing varies from brand to brand. So the 44 shoe that felt right to you, make sure to get the same make.
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>>993543
i tried shimano, bontrager and giro i think, they all felt good.
>>
I'm going from a 50/34 compact crankset to a 53/39 standard with Q-Rings. Is my current chain cut too short to switch onto my new gear ratio, therein providing the need for a new chain?
>>
>>993544

Should have no lack of choices between those three, nice.
>>
I have a city bike where I added those "gel" grips (the ones that look fatter in the middle) and for the 2000 past miles I've been riding with them, I love them. There is only one problem: I have to wash them more than I have to wash the fucking bike, because the rubber surface is so smooth all the grip friction causes it to act like a -duh- rubber, all the unlikely shit gets stuck on it. I can't wear gloves all the time, I ride a lot but only for longer commutes.

Do you think bike tape would fix this? It's moustache handlebars, trigger to the left, thumb to the right. Will I have to remove the grips to install the tape?
>>
I'm a new bike people, going on my second major long distance ride tomorrow. The problem is, for my last long ride, I was just wearing shorts with no padding or anything and afterwards ot felt like Jerome had his way with me in the shower. I've put off buying proper padded shorts for ages, but I want to be able to sit down afterwards and get up without having to wipe blood off the seat. What's the best way to DIY padding? Who's done DIY parding before? Am I a cuck pos who deserves all the pain he gets?
>>
>>993586
the only way is to really just get the shorts m8, although if you are too cheap or are insecure about your masculinity, rubbing baby powder on yourself may help.
>>
>>993546
Probably. Sizing a chain is really simple. YouTube can give you a video that will make it really easy. Bend up a paperclip to use as a tool to temporarily good the chain together.
>>
>>993546
If your chain is already the correct length and not too long then yes you should get a new chain, however you could continue to use your current one for the time being as long as you make sure not to crosschain. The chain should be long enough to go around the largest cog and chainring (excluding the derailer) plus 2 extra links (one inner and one outer).
>>
>>993564
What grips are they? Never heard of such issue.
>>
Anyone got a clip of today's crash at the women's keirin?
>>
What small frame pump is good?
How much should I be spending on one?
>>
>>993803

Get one with a foot tab
>>
Older mother with back problems wants to start cycling to lose weight. What's the best type of bike to buy with this criteria. Cheaper the better
>>
>>993868

Spend the money on yoga classes instead.
Without a basic level of core strength & flexibility, cycling can really only bring misery. A recumbent might work but they are not cheap and tbqh you/your mom won't stick with it anyway.
>>
>>993870
Yea I thought recumbent but all I find are expensive or cheap E ones idk if they are any good
>>
>>992783
I just purchased a Salsa Marrakesh.

Did I fuck up?

First serious bike.
>>
>>993803
>small
>frame pump
Either Lezyne pressure drive or topeak turbo morph
>>
>>994055
Depends how much you paid for it, the retail price is stupidly overpriced as far as I can tell. I wouldn't have paid more than like $1k and even that's probably pushing it (I'm converting from my currency).
>>
>>994061
Pretty much retail with a few extras thrown in - lights, fenders, peddles, maintenance, etc.
>>
>>994066
So about $1600? Even with those extras there's no way it's worth that. A quick look over most of the parts and I'd say they probably come to around half that, exchanging the frame and fork for something more sensibly priced (that shit ain't worth $650) and for the full price you could definitely build a much better bike.
>>
>>994073
Ah well. No way I'm gonna build my own and it's a local business so oh well.
>>
>>994055
>>994061

Looks like a good bike to me. Well spec'd for a touring bike, no shitty components or cut corners, and no finicky shit to maintain (which is bad for touring). I don't think it's stupidly overpriced. You probably could have gotten something with a bit more bang for the buck, but you could have done much much worse (e.g. Specialized Awol).
>>
>>994098
They sell the frame and fork for $650 (which is expensive for what it is), there's no way the rest of the parts come anywhere near $1000. It's all old and low end stuff, 9 speed Deore (can be had for close to $200 including shifters), BB7s (shit and completely inexcusable on the flat bar model, the drop bar should at least have something like Spyres), cheap wheels, etc.

I'm not saying it's a bad bike (except for the brakes) but it shouldn't cost as much as it does.
>>
It looks like a pretty well built touring bike to me. Maybe a little overpriced but not by much if you look at other tour bike prices
>>
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So I've got this old Raleigh bike sitting the shed for 9 years lying partially disassembled. It has a cruiser handle bar and an internal 3 gear hub. IIRC, the chain came off and we wrote it off. Now it's $CURRENT_YEAR, and with my chain tool I've gotten the chain removed.

Is it worth it to try and reassemble the bike? What repair and replacements would I have to make? I figure I need to replace the chain, the gear shifter and cable, the brake cables & handles, and the bike inner tubes. I will also have to figure out how to remove the seat post from the tube, which probably need a lot of force and grease. As well, I will probably also have to replace the tires, the brakes themselves, and handle bars and stem.

Is there anything I missed.
>>
>>994136
Should be a $50 job to get it running. Start off by soaking the seattube with WD40/coke/lube
I don't see why you have to replace the brakes,bars, stem. Just cables,chain, brake pads and tires should be good, although my roommate is running probably 20 year old gumwall tires so you might get away with tires too.

Since most of it is disassembled, regrease everything while you're at it.
>>
I is poorfag in need of bike and realized a cyclocross bike is exactly what I need for my area. I need something good for shitty roads, off road and long distance commutes.

Are there are good cyclocross bikes under $500? Or any type of older bike I can get on Craigslist that I can modify to work as a cyclocross bike?
>>
>>994160
New, no. Used, post your CL and height
>>
>>994168
Moving to Phoenix AZ in 2 or 3 months and my height is 6'. Pant size is 34x32
>>
>>994172
I'll check tomorrow, too drunk right now
>>
>>994178
lol me too.

I was originally intending on getting a mountain bike because I thought they were the most versatile bike around, but after experiencing a cyclocross bike earlier, I realized that it's exactly what I need.
>>
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I bought a topeak road morph g and this pump is bigger than I anticipated. If I want to use the screws I would have to move my bottle cage to the rear mount which makes my bottle very hard to access. Alternatively I could use some heavy duty black zip ties and zip tie it somewhere on my frame. (I've seen quite a bit of google images with this set up). I guess my question would be is it stupid to use zip ties to mount it to my frame, more just want /n/'s opinion in on this. I have puncture resistant tires (or so I've been told) on my bike and while I shouldn't ever need this better to have it and not need it etc etc.
>>
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>>994199
While this is not a picture of my bike this is probably where I would mount it.
>>
So I started cycling to go around town and my sit bones hurt like hell. What are my options? Should I buy a new saddle, or is it something that takes time to get used to?
>>
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>>994204
Do you have padded shorts, if not I suggest getting a pair. When I started cycling about a month ago, for the first week or so my ass hurt like hell you just gotta let those sitting bones (lack of a better word) toughen up then you'll be fine.
>>
>>994207
Don't they make it look like you crapped your pants though? I'll probably just keep riding for a bit and see if my ass hurts any less. Thanks for the help
>>
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yo /t/
how much tire clearence is enough ?
I run a kaffenback 2 with 650b 38mm wheels and they are haven.
I would love to use them for a tour or two but the clearance on the chainstays is pretty shitty.
it's ~2,5 mm maybe.
is that enough ?
I ride the bike on gravel and the street and have had no problems at all. even in wet conditions with some slight build up on gravel roads.
but what if some more mud comes into play ?
is this even a issue ?
dose anybody do somethign similar is the clearance so much better with 700c 35mm tires ?
>>
>>992875
Any more on what tools I need? I was going to get that auto chain cleaner you fill with cleaner, a crank bros m19/17 and not sure what else. I picked up a hand pump, tire lever(s) and a patch kit at the LBS today. What else do i need?
>>
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>>994228

Handpump or a track pump? Handpumps are useful for on-the-road repair kits but for your garage a trackpump with pressure gauge is necessary, IMO. Your tire pressure makes a huge difference in comfort and tire life.

Cleaning your chain is controversial. Better to clean it the old fashioned way, with a carwashing sponge and a gentle degreaser diluted with water. Lube after. Chain cleaning tools actually do their job too well, and remove lubricant from parts of your chain that will most likely remain dry no matter how good a job you do with relubrication. This will end up reducing chain life.

Chain checking tool is very handy and arguably necessary. If you decide to change your own chains, a high quality chain breaker as well.

Spoke wrenches are useful and cheap(like 3 bucks.)
>>
>>994230
I have a floor pump with a guage as well as a hand pump with a gunge.
>>
>>994230
I've never had really had problems breaking chains with cheap chainbreakers. Joining chains, yes, but not breaking them. Even the multitools ones are fine if they're used on riveted chains with a divot in the pin.
>>
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Why do people call clip in pedals clipless? I was at my LBS today and asked for some clipless pedals and they though I meant standard platform pedals but when I explained it to them they said it was pedals you clip in to. So if you clip into them then they're not really clipless are they.
>>
>>994235
Because they have retention, but not actual "clips" which on older pedals are the metal loop that supports the strap.
>>
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can anyone id this handlebar for me? or recommend a similar one with short reach.

thx
>>
what's up with the specialized pizza rack ?
is it not for sale anymore ?
>>
>>994235
find a new bike shop
>>
>>994235
Really makes you think...... That your LBS are retards
>>
>>994186
Couldn't find a single CX bike. Consider saving up some more and getting a new Jamis or Kona bike, they make good stuff for reasonable prices.
Also check out this shit
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/bik/5686245244.html
>>
>>994268
That really needs two or three more pieces of metal

who the fuck thought that was a good design?
>>
>>994270
Some hipster
>>
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I just purchased a 105 5800 Groupset for my bike that currently has the older 10 speed 5600 on it. My biggest concern with the new groupset is fitting the cassette, I currently have this rear hub: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bontrager-Race-Hub-Cyclecross-240134-D-E-Ships-Same-Day-FREE-/222188029293?nma=true&si=GHTpjo9%252B0FvuoCBZHObpVh1fOWg%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

There is not much info that I can find about this hub, but I am assuming that an 11 speed cassette won't fit on this? Can I just buy a new rear hub that accepts an 11 speed cassette and have a shop install it?
>>
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>>993628

Model is pretty much this one.

Also, if you tighten the bottom bracket as unwobbly as humanly possible but it comes loose after less than 70 miles, is it because the ring lock is giving up or one of the cages is? I changed it roughly 1500 miles ago. I am not putting too much force as of lately, I'm trying to turn into a "spinner" so.
>>
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>>993082
AYY
>>
>>994277
Did you happen to leave them under the sun a lot? That can make rubber grips become sticky.
And for your other question, did you put grease on the threads before tightening? That helps.
>>
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my drivetrain is clicking when I pedal.
it sounds almost like the freewheel.
everything else works though.
I bought the used and this is the frist time I'm running them built up.

I kind of feel like it's one of the jocey wheels.
what do I do ?
it's really annoying
>>
>>994296
Disassemble, clean, grease/lube, and assemble the whole bike. "My drivetrain is clicking" could be a hundred different things: grit on the BB, a loose spoke, a loose bolt somewhere, fucking anything
That, or just keep riding until it goes away on its own, which can happen too.
>>
>>994268
Will do.

Are there any road bike designs that I can modify to work as CX bikes? Or is the geometry all off?
>>
>>994296
First you need to diagnose the general location of the noise. Take the chain off and pedal standing up, if the noise happens then it could be the pedals, BB, or crank (it'll also happen or twice per crank rotation at the same point). If there's no noise then it could be the chain, derailer, or cassette (may only happen in certain gears, could also be due to a misadjusted derailer). Check the chain for any stiff or bent links, check that the derailer lines up in all gears, visually check the cassette for worn teeth.
>>
Why is my Fox "awesome" 32 fork cased in plastic? Cheapness or weight?
>>
>>994318
Where exactly? Cased would imply a plastic coating, if you're referring to the lowers then they'll be powder coat (may appear to be plastic to an idiot I suppose) over aluminium or magnesium.
>>
>>994296
Does it occur at a certain point in your pedal stroke? I was having the same issue and suspected the drivetrain. It turned out that one of the pedal bodies was adjusted too tight. I loosened it ever so slightly and now the sound is gone.

A good way to check for this is to spin the pedal. If it has trouble making 1-2 rotations before stopping, it might be adjusted too tight. Cheap and mid-range pedals often come overtightened from the factory.
>>
>>994321
The part that the pistons go into? Like the entire outer part of the suspension is plastic. I'm pretty sure I'd notice if it was powder coated metal because it would suck up a lot more heat from my hand.
>>
>>994323
That would be the lowers. The powder coat is pretty thick as it's the part most likely to get hit so it can be quite insulating to heat.
>>
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>>994305
>>994316
>>994322

it's not happening when I pedale backwards, I only here the freewheels clicking, if I pedal forward it sound basically just like the freewheel engaging when pedaling backwards.

it's almost as loud and repeating fast.
I run a narrow wide chainring up front and since it's quite when pedaling back , I think it isn't the bb.

the shifting is nice and acurate.
>>
>>994327
If it's happening that fast then it won't be a problem with a single link of the chain. The most likely cause would be something up with the derailer that's causing the chain to rub or catch. Check that the chain runs freely through it without touching the plates either side of the jockey wheels. Also check to make sure the upper jockey isn't touching the cassette in any of the gears.

Does the noise happen in all gears?
>>
>>994331

yeah it's happening in all gears,
sometimes I feel like deraileur is doing funny things when I backpedal fast.
I'll look if the chain is catching on someting later.
>>
>>994327
>>994331
Interesting. I came here to ask about a problem identical to yours. But in my case I've already checked that chainrings are bolted tightly and I use friction shifter up front, so I know it's not the derailleur rubbing.

For me the problem occured after I replaced the worn out chainrings, cassette and chain. I was thinking about jockey wheels too since they're still very worn out, but the bike doesn't click if I pedal the cranks idling without any torque applied.

Everything works fine but the clicking is annoying and I think my bike will explode catastrophically killing me in front of little children.

I'll do a systematical check when I'll ride home.

Once before I located oddly clicking noise from brakes to too wide washers between brake mount and brake caliper. The rotors "arms" rubbed the washers when force was applied sideways to the bike bending the fork in relation to the caliper.
>>
>>994338
I once had a "drivetrain" clicking noise, turned out to be the stem clamp, applied some grease, tightened again, clicking gone. Fucking bikes man.
>>
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>>994288

I've been commuting to the beach quite a bit, yes, and where I go there is literally one pole where I can chain the bike to, let alone chain it and keep it under control from where I bathe. At this point grips are like an eraser, I could use them to fix mistakes as I doodle with a pencil. The problem is that being very soft rubber, it tends to absorb every possible shit, be it dust, water or even whatever dirt is on my hands.

Also, unrelated ignorant question: is there a particular reason why the teeth on the middle ring of this thing look like they've been ran through a grinder? Is it some sort of favorable "le smooth" design because they know whoever buys this thing is gonna go with the 38 most of the time or what?
>>
>>994344
Probably some sort of shifting-aid design.
>>
>>994344
Those are shifting aids, it makes it easier for the derailer to push the chain off the middle ring onto the inner or outer ones.
>>
>>994345
>>994346

That's nice to know, thanks to you both.
>>
Can you recommend me a biological degreaser that won't break the bank. I'm in UK.

I am looking to replace my chain and have never done this before. I understand I need to buy a 7 speed chain for a 7 speed bicycle, and it's a Shimano cassette so should I just pick up any cheap chain? I've seen these KMC reusable links. Are they worth it? Surprised to see how cheap cassettes are. To be honest I can afford to buy degreaser, chain and a cassette I'm just being a bit cheap. Are they hard to replace?
>>
>>994338
>>994340

Had a similar thing happen. Turned out to be my saddle that was making the clicking noise.
>>
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>>994350

You just need "a" chain, they come longer than they need to be for a reason. Unless you have a premium bike and you're looking to speed away, any chain will do. I've been riding with a 3.50 bucks no-name chink chain and a quick link on a shimano cassette for the past 2000 miles and not a single problem has appeared, shifting is fine and everything. Yes, quick links are definitely worth it, buy at least two. As for degreaser, just fricking go with dishwasher soap or chanteclair.
>>
>>994355
Cheers. The links seem to be sold as "card of two" so I'm hoping I'll be good.
>>
>>994273
Any help? Or anyone know where I could find some? Besides an LBS of course, I can't interact with real human beans.
>>
Reverb stealth hose got damaged a bit. Some 1cm of the black rubber cover got torn off, exposing the white inner hose. Should I just cover it up or panic and buy new hose? Doesnt seem to be leaking and after noticing it and cycling it up and down it works fine.
>>
>>993803
I like my Crank Brothers Gem, but I haven't used it a ton. It's what I need in a super sleek package for around $20 US
>>
>>994375
Cover the damaged area with some electrical tape, it'll make you feel better if you can't see the inner hose.

>>994273
Your best bet is going to be replacing the wheel outright with one that has an 11-sp freehub. I would not recommend trying to re-build one of those low-spoke Race wheels with a different hub, nor would it make sense to transplant an 11-sp freehub onto it and dish the wheel further.
>>
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>>994423
Yeah, you're probably right. Unfortunately I know jack shit about wheels, does anyone have any suggestions for a good value wheelset? Doesn't have to be anything special, just not worse than the Bontrager Race wheels that are already on my bike.
>>
>>994438
zondas
>>
>>994438
whats your budget?
>>
>>994443
I'll probably wait a bit to buy the wheels and install the groupset since I wasn't expecting to buy wheels as well, but when I do, I guess I wouldn't really want to pay more than $300 or so for a set. The bike only cost me $700 to begin with, so spending almost the same on the groupset and wheels is about the most I really feel like doing to it.
>>
>>994438
Those wheels should work fine, just the lacing triggers me. Why did they decide to have different pattern on a different semicircle?
>>
>>994451
The lacing is consistent all the way round the wheel, it's just the angle that the photo was taken at.
>>
>>993400
It IS overwhelming, no matter what. Go a single frame or frame maker at a time, and scour the internet for information on each. As far as I understand, that's the only way to build expertise on the subject. As you go, you should naturally start being able to sort out what makes a frame good or bad. I just learned it as a matter of course, as I'm sure you will too.
>>
>>994473
No, the lacing is actually that fucked up in real life, it's not even the angle haha.
>>
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>>994483
Opinions on this for exercising?
>>
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>>994483
Are you the owner? If so you need to take a closer look.

I've labelled the nearest side spokes to help you, as you can see it's consistent all the way around the rim.
>>
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>>994487
Yep, I mean it's hard to tell, but they are laced wierdly, and it's not consistent.
>>
>>994486

A (new) bicycle below $1000 is almost certainly horse dung and not worth your time, but if you're just using it for "exercise" you shouldn't have issues.
>>
I copped a bike from my local shop for commutes to and from uni, along with a kyptonite U-lock, what else can I get/do to make sure that my bike doesn't get jacked while im in class?
>>
>>994493
Here are the specs. I'm sort of new to biking, I got a used Raleigh Sport road bike a few months ago with drop bars. It has its kinks, and I'm sort of thinking that I just want something new, over a thousand dollars is too much for me.
>>
>>994492
I really don't get what you mean. The front one obviously isn't fucked up and the back one looks good too. The rear may have a different crossing on each side but that would be it.

It would actually be very hard to lace it inconsistently as it would require different length spokes on one half of the rim, and to do it on purpose would just be incredibly stupid and pointless.
>>
>>994496
post your local craigslist + height

$500-$700 will get you a nice used bike.
>>
>>994499
http://richmond.craigslist.org/search/bia

6'3.5" My raleigh is 62cm, but I think it might be one or 2cm to large. Almost hits my nuts standing over.
>>
>>994495
remove the stickers, put Huffy on it.
>>
>>994501
>>994499

This is my current bike
http://www.bicyclebluebook.com/searchlistingdetail.aspx?id=3033607
>>
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>Front disc brake is scraping pad
>Can't adjust it myself
>Take it to LBS
>They tell me I put my front tire on crooked and that's why the pad was scraping the disc
>Tells me they adjusted it anyway

So how the fuck do I ensure my tire goes on straight then? Looking at the front of the fork it looked fine and it wasn't riding weird at all. I assumed and long as you set the tire correctly and had the proper pressure on the quick release it was fine.
>>
>>994493
I don't know about that. I bought a specialized diverge A1 for $880 and it's been pretty fucking solid.
>>
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>>994518
This kind of shit is why thru-axle needs to become the default

With some very modest amount of competence you can avoid the problem you described, but this is really a case of the industry adopting one technology without adopting related technologies that would make the whole transition better

It doesn't help that retards keep meming that discs are unnecessary and we should just scrape our shoes on the ground because "brakes are for modulating your speed and not stopping" or whatever it is that the campyfags keep saying

Anyway, loosen the bolts that hold your caliper, squeeze the brake lever, and tighten them

Wa la, have a goza
>>
>>994520
What do you mean caliper, like the actual disc with the 6-7 bolts?
>>
>>994518
Whilst it may have looked fine it doesn't take much to get the disc scraping. Also the initial alignment of the caliper could have been done with the wheel all wonky, so when you put it back on straight it was out of alignment. Finally as you mentioned the skewer may not have been tight enough, as the brake is applied the reaction force wants to push the wheel down and out of the dropouts.

>>994522
The caliper is the bit that squeezes the disc, the other term for the disc is a rotor. The bolts he's referring to are the two that are positioned parallel with the wheel and when loosened allow the caliper to move left and right and rotate slightly. If you have a post mount fork (google it) they will be the only bolts, if you have an IS mount (also google) then their will be two more bolts that are perpendicular to the wheel but which don't need to be loosened.

His method for aligning the caliper is okay in some circumstances however you may find that the caliper moves when tightening the bolts so you'll have to loosen and adjust a few times to get it right.
>>
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I'm about 5'7 or 5'8, I think I can talk this guy down about 40 bucks on this bike, is this a okay deal for me?
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/bik/5729480937.html
>>
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so i have v-brakes and i tend to brake with my front brake a lot. this means the pads go away fast. then i need to re adjust the brake cable tension so it works properly.

i usually just do it by using the 1 bolt ( see pic). it obviously works, but (and here my question), should i also be adjusting screw number 2? like compensating than the vbrake when not used is gonna be tighter? and i dont waste life on the springs that tension the whole thing? these vbrakes are kinda new, changed em 6 months ago and are decent tektros...bolt number 3 doesnt have to do shit in this procedure right?

sorry for my shats english. thankssssssssssss
>>
>>994544

Nervar crank, I'd bet a sixer of beer that this bike uses french bottom brackets.

Seems like a very good condition bike, but know what you're getting into. It is a pain in the ass to replace french BBs, velo orange makes some but I've personally tried two and they're mediocre in quality.
>>
>>994545

When you recable the bike, you could install inline adjusters. They cost like 10 bucks for a pair and will make brake adjustment a 2 second deal instead of a 15 minute slog.
>>
>>994547
>inline adjusters
interesting. but would prob have to buy overseas. and it really doesnt take 15 miutes, more like 30 seconds, maybe a minute, done once for like 2 months... but still cool to know abut that option. :)
mainly concerned in not fucking up the spring that tensions the shit
>>
>>994545
2 is for adjusting spring tension, you should only need to adjust that when installing the brake arms so that the tension is balanced (so one pad isn't sitting closer to the rim than the other). Instead of loosening 1 and pulling the cable through you should be turning the barrel adjuster at the lever, if your levers don't have them then they're junk and should be replaced. 3 is just for aligning the pad with the rim.
>>
>>994558
coolio, thanks, yeah i adjust the lever barrel,but it goes to a point, then i need to re adjust the cable, usually do it 3 times before the pad is deadddddddddds. thanks amigo
>>
>>994563
When you put in new pads and readjust the cable do so with the barrel adjuster close to being screwed all the way into the lever (pull the cable tight so the pads are squeezing the rim, then screw the adjuster in to move the pads away).

There should be more than enough adjustment at the lever to make up for the pad wearing, if there isn't (after doing what I said above) then you're not replacing the pads soon enough. Another cause, assuming the brake setup isn't stock, is using non-V-brake levers as they won't pull the cable as far (and so the barrel adjuster won't make as much difference).
>>
Just got a new bike with SRAM Red brakes and carbon wheels. Pads the shop supplied are BBB Carbstop, seen here: http://bbbcycling.com/bike-parts/brake-shoes/BBS-25

They're realllllllly loud and squeaky if I grab them hard enough on a big descent, say.

I've put about 100km on and they're still doing it. I wanted Swissstop Black Prince but they're backordered from their supplier currently. Could always order some online. Would that likely correct the issue or is this something that all pads/carbon rims do at first? My previous bike had dick brakes so I'm new to the concept.
>>
This is the second gash I've gotten in less than 200 miles. Is this normal or are just Vittoria tyres utter shit?
>>
>>994608
if you're careless with riding over everything, you're gonna ruin the rubber. I ride gators and even then I'm careful with glass or sharp objects.
>>
>>994614
That's the thing, I'm very careful and avoid riding any road debris. My old CST tyres never had this problem.
>>
How much weight can an average well built rear axle safely hold?

I have a Target Fix-d (department store fixed gear) and would like to put pegs on it to tow my light friends, aka wimmens.

That would be two people, each around 60kg, 130lbs.
So factor in extra oddities, the bike would bear around 140kg, or 300lbs total.

The wheel has generic 36 spokes, and I'm pretty sure all axles are the same generic metal. It's average road bike thickness, not bmx thickness.

I'm sure the bike can hold a single fatty McRider, but I'm afraid that the extra weight being applied directly on the outer edges of the axle could bend it from leverage.

Experiences? Ideas?
>>
>>994608
Standard fag rubber, flawed by design.

When your typical sissy road bike wheels give way to the papercuts, save up 50 bucks and go to amazon.
Get Schwalbe marathon plus, slightly wider than you want.
Had these on for literally years of goatheads, sandspurs, broken bottles, broken cage lights, even broke some in tact glass myself by riding over it.

Guess what. Literally zero damage.

If you don't believe me, look up some youtube vids. Dudes place tacks INTO the wheel itself and go over mounds of broken glass.

Only downside its a little heavy, but really? Unless you're racing, or a weight weenie, never changing a tire or even worrying about riding surfaces + stronger legs is completely worth 50 bucks. And gatormemes dont even come close to these.
>>
>>994636
>How much weight can an average well built rear axle safely hold?
>I have a Target Fix-d (department store fixed gear)

Then the answer to the question you asked would seem to be irrelevant to you, as you do not own an average well built rear axle.
>>
>>994608
>>994623

Viittoria tires are some of the best on the market.

You bought a Zaffiro, however, which is at the bottom of their line and understandably of lower quality than their other offerings. Zaffiros have decent ride quality and grip but are not the most durable, or the fastest.

If you want better performance, spend more money next time.
>>
>>994650
I assume they are the both the same diameter and the same generic metal compound. Given I had a reputable axle, would towing another person cause damage to the axle?
>>
>>994667

Actual towing or standing on the pegs?
>>
>>994671
standing on the pegs.

Also very little bumps, since Florida is flat as a pancake.
>>
I was really into cycling but then a bunch of shit happened so I had to spend money on other things but now I want to get back into it. Are the $300-500 road bikes on bikesdirect shit? I am not trying to go pro or anything. I just want to commute and exercise on the same bike.
>pls no bully
>>
>>994690
They're alright.
>>
>>994690
Are you financially stable? Get something on 0% finance. You're very likely to regret buying something very cheap after not too long and then you've just wasted $400 you could have put towards something else.
>>
>>994690
Bike buy general will offer more help more likely, but check 2nd hand.

How long is the commute?
Need exact numbers.

If it's like 5 miles each way, then bikesdirect is 100% fine really.

Also don't get shit with suspension, you don't need it. In fact suspensions on a road bike is counterproductive.
Don't get single speed/fixed.
>>
>>994696
I am a unemployed Uni student but I'll probably start offering to repair people's laptops and phones for a fee. I am extremely frugal so I have a decent amount in savings but I don't want to touch it.

>>994698
~15 miles.
>>
>>993087
>incremental gains

Don't you mean marginal gains?
>>
>>994652
It's a folding Rubino Pro 3. I did spend some money on them.
>>994637
This is what I feared. I hope those come in 23c, since my frame can only accommodate some 25c's. Thanks for the recommendation.
>>
>>993333
I'm about the same height as you and I ride a 56cm frame. Your best bet is to just go into your LBS and get them to set you up. They can show you a variety of bikes and see which one fits you best.
>>
>>994730
No, he means incremental. Incremental gains are small gains (could be called marginal on their own) that add up to something more significant.

Sticking that fork on a not very aero bike would result in a marginal gain, on an aerodynamic track bike it's part of an incremental gain.
>>
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NEED HELP With Tubes

bought a new tube because every time i would patch a tube it would bulge next to the patch when inflated.

today my new tube got a hole and tried patching but it bulged again and popped.

my tires are close to new. i see no holes in my rim tape whats happening. also why are my tubes bulging after patching
>>
>>994734
wrong pic
>>
>>994734
Are you inflating the tubes massively outside of the tyre for some reason? Or are you running tubes that are a lot smaller than the tyre? I see no other reason why the tube would bulge, they don't need to expand much to fill the tyre.
>>
>>994737
i pre inflate before i put them back into the tire to check if the patch is good. tubes are right size. i give it maybe 15 pumps and it bulges as if the patch is constricting the air from flowing
>>
>>994738
15 pumps from a small handheld pump that is. wasted several patches because of it
>>
>>994738
And this is happening outside the tyre, right? You don't need to infalte the tube so much that it starts bulging significantly. just pump it enough so it stretches slightly and then dunk the patched area under water.

Once the tube is inside the tyre it won't bulge as it doesn't get as big.
>>
>>994738
Stop doing that, it's silly
>>
>>994734
>patching tubes


why do people do this
>>
well guess thats the problem, thanks

>>994742
yea it is

off to buy an overpriced tube from my local store
>>
>>994734
bet your rim tape is one of those cheap rubber ones. I had those and they give way at higher pressures. Get higher quality rim tapes.
>>
>>994745
Not everyone enjoys a throwaway culture
>>
>>994733
>It was a joke
>http://jamesclear.com/marginal-gains
>>
>>994752
yea they do look like rubber. if it happens again ill buy some.

you guys are the best always fast responses
>>
Are cleats supposed to be symmetrical between shoes? Like, are they supposed to be pointing in the same general direction? My left foot seems to hate anything but a straight cleat direction but my right foot wants to be angled inwards.
>>
>>994827
If it feels right, who cares? People aren't symmetrical.
>>
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I know i wont get a proper answer but im saying it anyway, im 5'10 34 inseam riding a 54 frame, I dont mind it as almost all pro riders use a frame too small. My question is what stem do you think i should get? the current one seems to be 95mm, Pros who ride a smaller frame end up getting 120-140mm stems. And no i dont want to spend hundreds of dollars on a professional bike fit. And what angle? should it be straight or parallel to the ground.
>>
>>994951
Whatever length and angle feels the most comfortable.
>>
>>994951
Nobody can answer that for you 'properly' because the stem you need depends on your flexibility, arm/torso length, bar width, hood positioning, etc. You should experiment with stem length/height and find what works, that will produce better results than any formula.
>>
>>994745

Some of us would rather not waste shit that works perfectly fine if patched, and don't want to carry extra tubes on rides.
>>
>>994956
how do you think i should go about doing that? i dont believe bike stores rent stems........ should i just ask an employee what they recommend after seeing me on the bike?
>>
>>994951
Its best to try a few different lengths. There's no real correct size. >>994954 is spot on.
>>
>>994958

Some shops will let you try a couple before you buy.
>>
I've got a bike I need to replace small parts for.
Rim liners of both wheels and the wheel nuts are total write offs.

How do I tell what replacements to get?
>>
>>994967
There are at least a couple of widths and lengths of rim liners in my experience. It needs to be wide enough to snugly fit into the recessed area of your rim, not too wide, but wide enough that it covers all the spokes when applied in a straight line.

Bring your wheel into the hardware store and see what fits. The standard wheel nut is 15mm outside width, I don't know about the hole or threading. There are at least a couple of different sized holes, older bikes were smaller. I recommend getting a 15mm width nut because some multi tools, public bike work stand, and good samaritans have this size wrench if an adjustable wrench isn't always available.
>>
>>994980
There's sadly not a store nearby, though I do have nuts for another bike that fit on this one so I can check the size.

The old, ruined liners say 26x20. Would the x20 be 20mm? Since the wheel is 26 inches.
>>
Bike washing questions:

Am I supposed to relubricate any exposed cables after washing?

Is there a proper way to dry a bike? I usually just wipe the frame down with a clean rag. Anything else I should be doing?
>>
>>994982
if it's a wide MTB or cruiser rim than I'd assume it means 2.0 inches

>>995097
1. no
2. unless you're getting fancy with things like wax and polish it doesn't really matter how (or if) you dry your bike after cleaning
>>
>>994982
20mm internal width is fairly common, you could always just measure it yourself.
>>995113
You really think he'd have 2 inch wide rims? Not saying they don't exist but it's very unlikely he has them.
>>
>>995097
No, and clean rag is fine
>>
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>>995097
cotton rag is fine.

tip: buy a can of pledge spray polish/wax.
wipe down your bike with it after every ride.
takes maybe 5min. keeps everything clean and looking new.
>>
>>992783
I just started biking again, and first time on /n/, can anyone recommend a comfortable bike seat? My ass is killing me.
>>
>>995235
A couple of threads that might interest you:
>>983209
>>994357
>>
>>995233
That's the stuff for cleaning furniture and whatnot, right?
>>
>>995235
>>995237
Also this
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html
>>
>>995238
yes
spray a bit on a rag, and wipe whatever you want down with it.

works well on my bike, shoes and helmet.
>>
so whenever i ride for more than about an hour my right shoulder hurts, like the back part around the shoulder blade. It's only there it hurts tho

Noticed my left handlebar is bent in a little bit, so it's not pointed directly forward (drop bars), is that the problem?
or general bike fit?
or my body?

pls help
>>
>>995367
>one side of my body hurts
>one side of my bike is crooked
>I wonder if that has anything to do with it
>>
just got my first road bike today. I took it out for a test ride and noticed that I have tough time braking with my hands on the hoods at least compared to on the drops. Is this normal? maybe my grip strength just needs to improve but when i squeeze both brakes as hard as i can and try moving the bike forward when stationary it still gives some way whereas doing so when on drops doesn't.
>>
>>995382
Having less stopping power on the hoods than on the drops is to be expected, but you should still be able to lock both wheels from the hoods. Adjust your brakes.
>>
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Hey guys, I'm going to be buying my first real mountain bike. I have been looking at the Camber bikes from specialized, and they seem to be the type of bike I'm looking for.
So the question is, how much of a difference would it make to buy the Comp version over the regular?

Camber comp 650b: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/camber-comp-650b/115268

Camber 650b: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/mountain/trail/camber-650b/115339
>>
I know a guy who has these weird shifters for his bike. they're little levers like bar ends or downtube shifters, but they're actually mounted on his bar (it's a flat MTB bar) either just inside of or directly on top of his brake levers. I'm interested in a pair for a bike for which I don't want to use any form of trigger shifter or brifter, but I'd still like to have my shifting vaguely accessible from my braking position. they're honestly pretty much just DT shifters mounted on his bars, but I'm pretty sure they're made to go on the bars rather than on downtube mounts. does anyone know what kind of shifters they might be?

and before someone calls me an autist, I would just ask him but I have no idea how to get in touch with him
>>
would i regret slamming my stem and cutting my tube? what if my flexibility goes to shit when im older?
>>
>>995423

Like these?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/MicroShift-Flat-Bar-Double-Triple-2-3-X-10-Speed-Thumb-Shifters-Bike-Berailleur-Compatible-for/32579339797.html
>>
>>995428

You might? You might not? Who knows if you'll even have that bike in two years, make it perfect for how you are NOW
>>
>>992783
So I'm an 18 year old Londoner. I want to get into track cycling after watching it at the Olympics.

My question is, how do you go about getting into it? Do you just turn up to a cycling club that does track and ask to join?

Also, how good do you have to be? I can ride a bike of course, I've never rode a track bike before. Will I look like a moron if I can barely ride it around a velodrome?
>>
>>995428
slam but don't cut. either that or get a new fork when you do decide that you're getting too old for that shit
>>
>>995433
how much do you squat?
>>
how can i get a really good back for aggressive cycling?
>>
>>995433
You have to get certified at most velodromes before you're allowed to use it during training or race events. Certification also includes instruction.

If practical, you should get familiar with riding a track-bike inspired fixed gear before going to the velodrome so you only have to get used to the banking and track riding etiquitte/rules. Though, getting used to not being able to stop your legs immediately to coast is the only potentially troublesome thing about riding fixed. It isn't uncommon for a new rider to unsettle the bike after trying to coast to rest after a sprint; on a velodrome, this situation is more likely to cause a spill than on flat ground.
>>
Where do you train if your roads are shit? I live South of Seattle Washington and there aren't many places to ride my bike safely.
>>
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So my back wheel has developed quite a squeak. I've isolated it to the wheel and not the chain. How would I go about lubing it to stop the squeak and what would I actually lube.. Due to my schedule taking it to the LBS won't be possible for about the next two weeks. My chain has a quick release link and the only lube I have is Tri-Flow Superior Lube. I'm not beyond ordering some grease/tools off amazon if someone can point me in the right direction.
>>
I fell for the anti-kickstand meme and while pumping my bike up, it slid off the pole it was leaned on and broke my brifter.

So...where does /n/ recommend finding a single Right/Rear Ultegra 6800 brifter?

The LBAs around here are all "nope lol", even though they sell bikes with full 6800 groupset.

So that kinda leaves online I guess. Any recommendations?
I'm in China and I can get it online locally but it's stupidly expensive (at least $300USD for just the right), I probably want to order it from some US or Europe bike shop, maybe even get a USA friend to bring it over when they next rotate for work.
>>
So I have a bike with tektro spyre mechanical disc brakes (road bike) but for some reason they barely apply any force, like, they don't "bite". Shifters are sram apex

I've adjusted the cable tension, changing pads, preloading the brake arm and cleaning them but nothing really works. It just feels kinda spongy and I can't brake at all using the rear brake alone. I always have to use both at the same time

Any ideas on how to fix? They've more or less been like this since I got them but i've been too lazy to really care
>>
I just bought a new 1x10 mountain bike and seem to always run out of gear up top(11x30t), should I consider upgrading to a 34t sprocket?

Also, I have a clutch type derailleur, so would a chain guide be overkill on a 1x?
>>
>>995613
>fe58fb93640cc29ca0f035f0d9ae3d39.jpg
>81 KB JPG
>I just bought a new 1x10 mountain bike and seem to always run out of gear up top(11x30t), should I consider upgrading to a 34t sprocket?
Assuming you're already on a 110+ cadence, yes.
>>995613
>Also, I have a clutch type derailleur, so would a chain guide be overkill on a 1x?
Yes. If you have a narrow-wide chainring the risk of drops is minimal. If you're spinning out you probably aren't running terrain where that's a big risk anyway.
>>
>>995613

30 is almost granny tier for 1x setup so up it to 34 or even 36 with no worries m8
>>
>>995431
yeah this is it, thanks lad
>>
>>995615
>>995632
Thanks fellas, RF chaining here I come! And the chain guide was more for
>aesthetics
anyway.
>>
Should I just skip an entry level and shell out some money for a superior road bike?
>>
>>995649
yes
>>
>>995649
Depends on what your definition of entry level is. The fun starts around €800-1000. Special finds can sometimes be had for less, but as a ballpark figure it's good.
>>
>>995409
>Hey guys, I'm going to be buying my first real mountain bike. I have been looking at the Camber bikes from specialized, and they seem to be the type of bike I'm looking for.

camber is an ok short/mid travel fs bike, but you're probably going to end up buying a new bike for more gnarly stuff in a year or two after you've blown out that rear shock and bottomed the fork a few too many times.

consider saving for a few more months and getting a '1-bike-quiver' style bike like this
http://transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Patrol.cfm
so you don't end up shelling out for a used kona stinky or something to take to a bike park later on.
>>
>>995649
you may regret it, you will prob get some buyers remorse if you end up figuring out you arent that into cycling and dropping 3-5k on a good bike.
>>
did sheldon brown die before he could make his website look half decent?
>>
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>>995649

It depends entirely on you. If you quit biking, you will strongly regret it. If you never quit biking it will be among the best decisions you'll ever make.
>>
The bike store jew tells me investing in an old steel road bike is a complete waste. I have a decent road bike, but I'd like something heavier for muh hardcore practice. Worth it or nah?
>>
>>995719
just pedal harder ffs
>>
Is there a saddlebag that doubles as a fannypack? I'd love one for my commuter
>>
Looking to buy a used bike
already checked cl
Any other places i should check?
Thx anons
>>
>>995731
Swap meets, flea markets, yard sales, pawn shops
>>
>>995719
Heavier doesn't make your body faster unless you pedal harder and longer…which you can also do on a light bike.
>>
>>995450
>getting used to not being able to stop your legs immediately to coast is the only potentially troublesome thing about riding fixed. It isn't uncommon for a new rider to unsettle the bike after trying to coast to rest after a sprint
Don't you just lift both legs off the pedals and stick them in the air as you coast around with the pedals spinning?
>>
>>995700
>did sheldon brown die before he could make his website look half decent?
He was a mechanic, not a web developer. And yes.

It does the job I guess, doesn't everyone just use google to find the article they want on it anyway?
>>
>>995721
>>995756
Thanks bae
>>
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>>995431
>Berailleur
When I saw that, I thought it was some sort of STI friction shifter version of a brifter. I was so hopeful...
>>
>>995719

I have a steel road bike for when I know I need to lock it up outside(casual rides ending at a cafe/restaurant, etc.)

I'll be damned if I lock up my good bikes where some cracky can paw at it
>>
>>995555
Online stores based in the UK (and rest of west europe) have the lowest Shimano prices. Shimano America controls retail prices better while Shimano Europe DGAF, so places like Chain Reaction Cycles, Wiggle, etc can sell for a very small percent above most dealers' wholesale price.
>>
i have dick brakes and I'm getting a new pair of wheels soon. Do I swap out the pads to break in a new pair of discs or will the old pads be fine?
>>
>>995786
>i have dick brakes
Ouch

>Do I swap out the pads to break in a new pair of discs or will the old pads be fine?
The old pads should be fine, assuming they aren't too worn.
>>
>>995781
>Shimano America controls retail prices better while Shimano Europe DGAF, so places like Chain Reaction Cycles, Wiggle, etc
Thanks, I'll check them. Any particular suggestions other than CRC and Wiggle?
>>
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>>995787
Thanks
>>
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Is this tire worth reusing?
>>
>>995794
>reuse a badly worn tire
No, keep it for emergencies but it's at replacement level already. It's only good for putting on a bike so that you can ride it to the shop.
>>
used bike polish the other day for the first time and i think some got in the bottom bracket, now it squeaks, whats the easiest fix?
>>
>>995851
>whats the easiest fix?
Send some oil in after it?
>>
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How the fuck does this happen when I'm using the factory seatpost, a six month old factory calibrated torque wrench, and never tightening it past the max torque written on the seatpost?
Is it the manufacturers fault?

>Pic not my bike, but crack is exactly the same.
>>
>>995851
Rebuild the bottom bracket, i'm afraid.
Since polish is lightly abrasive, you really don't want a bandaid solution for this one.
>>
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>>992783
Q:

I'm new to the road bikes (after 10+ years of absence on my old mtb) and wanted to ask a few questions:

1) What width of tire is optimal, is 28 mm a game changer? I have read that its excellent to kite the corners with it.

2) Is Shimano 105 group set considered a Top Option that bunk Ultegra and (especially) Dura-Ace?

3) Can I use 3rd party locking mechanisms/screws on the wheels so they could be less vulnerable to thieves?

4) Pair of New wheel set are considered one of the most important upgrades. Should I upgrade for "light weight" or "more aero dynamic" set of wheels?

5) What overall weight for road bike is considered to be Good/Best/Optimal without spending $10k+ (my budget is around $1500/$2000)

6) I read a lot of controversy and memes regarding the carbon bicycles, but the fork and stem is usually made out of carbon that include the handle bars as well or wheels themselves. So why then carbon frames have a low recognition around here? Is it because they are much expensive? Shouldn't carbon be at least 5 times tougher to break than Alu so that could last as life time investment?
>>
>>995975
1. 25mm is the most common on road bikes these days. Some can fit 28 and it wouldn't really hurt.
2. It's by far the best value for money. Rock solid in terms of operation, just slightly heavier.
3. Yes, locking skewers are a thing.
4. Unless you exclusively ride mountain passes, probably aero. 40-60mm is a good range of depth for all round riding. Aluminium rims with carbon fairing is a little bit heavier than full carbon wheels but is much, much cheaper.
5. You'll probably be looking at something 8-9kg.
6. Carbon is strong but if you crash it can fail catastrophically. So can aluminium. Don't worry about it really. In your budget you possibly won't be looking at carbon anyhow.
>>
>>995975
>after 10+ years of absence on my old mtb
flat bar road bike!

>1) What width of tire is optimal, is 28 mm a game changer? I have read that its excellent to kite the corners with it.
In my experience it isn't the best for cornering. I had that size tyre on a standard 23 mm rim ( inner width of 20 mm) and when I replaced those tyres with 25 mm tyres I noticed a significant difference in the corners. I just feel more balanced somehow, and I get more feedback through the (flat) bars. Though, to be fair, the 28 mm tyres I had were the stock ones that came on the bike and the 25 mm tyres were an upgrade so they may simply be better tyres and the size difference may have little to do with the perceived improvements in handling. Sorry, I know that's not much help. But I much prefer my new 25s over the old 28s.

>2) Is Shimano 105 group set considered a Top Option that bunk Ultegra and (especially) Dura-Ace?
Shimano order of spec from most expensive to cheapest is:
Dura-Ace Di2>Dura-Ace>Ultegra Di2>Ultegra>105>Tiagra>Sora>Claris
So 105 may seem a bit down the order but if you take out the electric versions (Di2) then it sits in the middle. I have it on my road bike with drop bars and it works very well. It's easy to maintain, the shifter hoods are comfy enough and there's lots of options for cable routing around the bars if you need it. I highly recommend it. Certainly no complaints from me.

Obligatory: flat bar road bike!
>>
>>995975
>3) Can I use 3rd party locking mechanisms/screws on the wheels so they could be less vulnerable to thieves?
Yes. But your best bet is just to run a cable or D-lock through the wheel as well as the frame.

>4) Pair of New wheel set are considered one of the most important upgrades. Should I upgrade for "light weight" or "more aero dynamic" set of wheels?
Honestly I highly recommend riding the bike as stock for a while before you upgrade the wheels because then you'll have a better idea of what you want out of new wheels. If you live in a hilly area then you're going to want light wheels. If you mostly ride on flat ground and like to ride fast then you might want aero wheels, which are heavier, and they can be unstable in strong winds. Plus if you get used to the bike with stock wheels then you'll appreciate the upgrade more.

>5) What overall weight for road bike is considered to be Good/Best/Optimal without spending $10k+ (my budget is around $1500/$2000)
Definitely under 10 kg.

Obligatory: flat bar road bike!
>>
>>995794
this rivet doesn't look like it's seated into the plate right.
>>
are gator skin tires worth the money?

also i'm planning on starting to race next year, would they be too heavy?
>>
File: $_57.jpg (48KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]
$_57.jpg
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super crappy pic, but do you think this is an okay repair stand ?

I could get it quite cheap
>>
On my last ride I noticed one of the non-drive side crank arm bolts for a hollotech bb fell off my bike. What size are these and is it worth paying $5 for a shimano bolt at the bolt at a bike store?
>>
According to google trends search for "recumbent" peaked in 2004.

Are less people curious or are the sales also down?
Did the e-bike deliver a heavy blow?

Worried if I have to replace the bike once the frame has become too old I can't get a replacement anymore.
E-bikes are nice but they're speed limited to 25 kph here in the Netherlands and the faster ones are required to be on the road and need a license plate.

Maybe I should just get a diamond frame, or I'm just paranoid.
>>
>>996244
Sales have been steady up to 2012, don't know more recent.

Frames last 20-30 years with semi-proper care, no worries.
>>
How messed up would it be to buy bike shorts at a thrift store? you are basically wearing someone elses underwear. although you would be spending $5 on something that is $50-100.
>>
How dumb is it to replace my beat up non-aero brake levers with new non-aero brake levers with suicide levers? they are 1984 red dot dia compe if that makes any diffirence.
>>
any tips for a 19yo that wants to start out racing
my grandfather fucked with the tour de france and owns and operates a cycle tours out of the family house in france
he is getting old and i would like to help him out with everything
i would love some wins/losses under my belt so im not going over like a penguin
i would like to get a fairly decent bike so i don't look like a fool in a pack practising (so no $400 bike) and how big of a leap is it technology wise from a $2000 too a $6000 bike
im a cycle noob i ride my bmx everyday twice a day but my grandpa would kill me in a race and he lets me know it all the time
i want to destroy him before he is too old and can blame it on the age im too late and need help now
plan so far is get a 2500-4k bike join a club and start training and try make my entrance year a good one

and is this board like fit or are you people actually active
>>
>>996509
>any tips for a 19yo that wants to start out racing
Most important thing is to actually start. Doesnt matter where. Anything. Look up local races, start out with some cat 5 shit thats short distances.

>i would like to get a fairly decent bike so i don't look like a fool in a pack practising (so no $400 bike)
Depends on what your discipline is. Longer endurance rides? Short sprint races? (crits)

Personally I reccomend something that has 105 components. Because that's where stuff gets 'race ready', it's still affordable (around $1500 new on an aluminum bike) and the next step up, ultegra, is a pretty marginal step up.
>>996509
>and how big of a leap is it technology wise from a $2000 too a $6000 bike
Not as big as the leap from a 1000 to a 2500. It kinda curves off. You wouldn't be that much better on a 6000 dollar bike than a 2000. the engine is the most important part on a bike.
1,500 will get you a nice high end aluminum bike which I recommend. I find high end aluminum to be better than the more expensive entry level carbon. It certainly wont hold you back

>and is this board like fit or are you people actually active
this is one of the slowest boards on 4chan. it's in the bottom 5 probably. if /fit/ is really active and fast compared to here
>>
File: peugeot.png (584KB, 693x517px) Image search: [Google]
peugeot.png
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Worth 150 euro? Seller wants 190 but I'm sure I can get him down.
>>
File: 614pDJbxc8L._SL1200_.jpg (134KB, 1200x1200px) Image search: [Google]
614pDJbxc8L._SL1200_.jpg
134KB, 1200x1200px
Can someone tell me what does this screw do?

Is it brake related or shifter related?
Thread posts: 341
Thread images: 58


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