/bqg/ - Bike Question General

okay, so i know most people have heard of 69er mtbs, with a 26 inch wheel in the back and a 29 inch wheel up front, but what about a commuter/street bike with a 700c wheel in the back and a 26 inch wheel up front? would it be manageable at all? seems like it might be kind of fun but i cant find anything significant about it on the internet anywhere

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>>985231
Oh it's fun alright

I think i might need a multi-tool. Which one do i get? Which one would you like to carry?

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/tools/multi-tools
http://www.wiggle.com/cycle/multi-tools/

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Anyone ridden a Dyad yet?
Redpill me, en le parlance

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My wheel is not centered on the frame but closer to one dropout than the other. Is this an issue? How do I adjust the brakes to function properly?

>>985238
Get the wheel re-dished so it's centered on the frame.

>>985238
Did you build it yourself ?

>>985250
I got it from a different bike. Same model and era so I figured they'd work out. The rims that came with it have rust speckles so I'm not sure if I trust them or if they are repairable. I just bought new tires to replace them because they had tire rot.

>>985232
how does it affect geometry though?

Big ring or small ring?. I'm starting to train the basic skills of road riding. People generally say that higher cadence is better but some say that smashing the big gear is good too.
What should I do? , riding most of the time using the small ring and leaving the big ring for specific situations?. How do you ride usually

>>985272
whatever feels sustainable for the most amount of time given road conditions and elevation, wind and other various things

>>985228
Do I need a torque wrench:??

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>>985265
not sure if you can make out the rust spots in this pic but these are the old rims

>>985281
I use one on my cage all the time.

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On my rides my thighs tend to burn, to the point where it slows me down then I pick up my pace again. It starts off worse at the very start of my ride, then dies down but when I start putting a lot of effort forth or stand up on an incline the burn is back and I can't push through it and I slow down (maybe I'm a pussy). How long does it take for this to stop? I've been riding for 8 days now but still something I'm curious about.

Also how do people handle their breathing, I know running is in through nose out through mouth but that doesn't seem to get me enough air. I feel like riding around with my mouth slightly open makes me look really goofy.

One last side note, when I sit on the saddle my ass is still sore, don't think it's gone away despite having padded shorts. Maybe my saddle is wrong or am I just still soft.

>>985289

You're weak.

>How long does it take for this to stop?

It never gets easier.
You just go faster.

>>985281
Unless you're working with carbon fiber parts, there's no real need for one. But if you can get it, go ahead. It's always useful.

>>985266
Eh, it's pretty much the same. A bit more fork rake but that's about it. You tend to forget your rear wheel isn't as plushy as your front though, which can lead to pinch flats

I can't remember why i bought a 13 mm box wrench. Where on a bike might one find use for anything but a 15 mm wrench?

>>985294
>>985289

>It never gets easier.
>You just go faster.

*Actually this is only mostly true.

If you work hard enough, for long enough eventually there comes a time when riding at or past lactate threshold just feels normal, and if you can still walk after a ride it feels like you wasted your day.

So in one sense, it gets easier psychologically.

>>985305

Might be able to use it as a janky cone wrench

>>985305
I believe square taper BB spindle screws are 14mm, but I can't think of a 13mm one

is there biking bible for this board? i want to get into biking and have look around but a compiled list of resources a là sticky would be nice

>>985325

Sheldon Brown
Park Tool Repair

Not everything there is to know, but an awfully good start.

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>>985305
On older bikes it's pretty common to find bolts that you'd want different box wrenches for (mostly 8, 9, 10mm, occasional 1/2"). 13mm is rare but I've found 13mm bolts on crappy old bolt-on hubs and seatmasts.

>>985289
You're new enough to riding that your thighs burning is likely just the result of using a new muscle, but if discomfort persists I'd get some help with your fit on the bike. Mouth breathing during hard efforts is normal - the only real technique involved in breathing is to make sure you're taking full breaths: focus on using your diaphragm to squeeze as much air out of your lungs as possible, then actively puff out your chest to draw in the greatest possible volume of air with each breath.

>>985238
Check that the wheel is properly dished (can be done with improvised tools, see diagram), and if that isn't the cause, check that your frame is properly aligned (google 'Sheldon Brown string alignment test'). If neither of those things is the issue, take it to a shop and ask them to check that your dropouts are aligned (this is not as easy to do without proper tools).

>>985305
crappy old bikes sometimes have 13mm axle nuts on the front wheel.
seat clamp nuts are sometimes 13 mm but more often than not 14 mm.
Occasionally useful for old quill stem wedge bolts, which come in a variety of sizes.
On new bike, they have a pretty limited functionality, like >>985309 suggested.

>>985326
thank you

Just broke my first spoke ever.
It broke off at the nipple, the rim didn't have any signs of hard hit or anything like that, wheel wasn't busted or anything. What could be the reason? I'm betting either a factory defect or maybe a pebble hitting the spoke? Or should I be concerned about them wheels, they are Alexrims so it should be OK for a rider like myself.
Cheers.

>>985228
I'm planning to make and light touring bike from an old ten speed gitane road bike, but i have several questions.

I'll change the brake calipers, but i don't know if i should take the shimano sora (br-3500) or the shimano tiagra (br-4600), the tiagra are 10€ more expensive but what is the differences between them ? Are they both capable of taking 28c tire ?

I would like to make the bike more efficient, but since i won't touch to the frame/fork and i will have luggages on the bike aero is non of my concern. However i'll buy new wheels, new tires and a new cassette. My question is, how buying a new chain and a new crankset, and a new drive axle will affect efficiency ? Is it worth the price ?

I don't know what type of saddle i should get, for my road bike i have a hard, thin saddle with a padded bib and it's okay for a few hours but i've never ridden for an entire day. Considering that i'll stay longer on the saddle and i'll be pushing less on the pedals should i get a widder/thicker padded saddle ?

>>985427
>I'll change the brake calipers, but i don't know if i should take the shimano sora (br-3500) or the shimano tiagra (br-4600), the tiagra are 10€ more expensive but what is the differences between them ? Are they both capable of taking 28c tire ?
They're mostly the same, the one just has a nicer finish. What you need to look out for, is that they have a long enough reach. Some older bikes have really long calipers.
>I would like to make the bike more efficient, but since i won't touch to the frame/fork and i will have luggages on the bike aero is non of my concern. However i'll buy new wheels, new tires and a new cassette. My question is, how buying a new chain and a new crankset, and a new drive axle will affect efficiency ? Is it worth the price ?
If your Gitane was an upper level bike back in the day, your bottom braket is still servicable and maybe the chainrings on the crank are not worn out yet. They should work with 9- or 10- speed chains just as well.
What you most definitely should do is space out your rear dropouts. The old 10-speeds have a 120mm to 126mm rear dropout and your new wheels are likely to be 130mm or 135mm.
>I don't know what type of saddle i should get, for my road bike i have a hard, thin saddle with a padded bib and it's okay for a few hours but i've never ridden for an entire day. Considering that i'll stay longer on the saddle and i'll be pushing less on the pedals should i get a widder/thicker padded saddle ?
If you're fine for a few hours, I figure you'll be fine for the rest of the day. The width of the saddle has a lot to do with how 'sporty' you sit on your bike.

>>985427
Just realize you'll have to drill your frame and fork to fit modern recessed nut calipers. Newer brakes require a larger hole. It's a good thing to do (unless your brake bridge / fork don't have much material around the hole), but you could also get some tektros which come in several kinds of traditional nutted mountings.

Sora vs tiagra, probably both good, the tiagra would be better, yes both would fit 28s. The 10 euro would be better spent on upgrading the brake pads (you could do both though).

Absolutely buy a new chain, don't buy a new crank unless you have to. Service or replace the bottom bracket.

Consider memeing it up with a brooks.

>>985272
Whatever facilitates high cadence without too much cross chaining. .
>>985289
Breathing through nose? No. Open your mouth. If you're not gasping for air you are not pushing yourself hard enough. My legs don't rewlly burn so I don't know what you mean. They just get tired.

>>985423
What are the spokes made out of?

>>985444
Metal. Steel I think, if they are ever made out of it.
They ain't no crabon spokes, that I know for sure.
Kewl digits.

>>985423
I would not be too concerned about breaking a spoke. I never had one brake off at the nipple, but quite a few on the neck with a machine built rear wheel like your alexrim most likely is.
When I had the last spoke break on me, I just gave them all a quarter turn more, half for the ones that were a little more loose and I never had a problem since. The wheel isn't razor straight but bulletproof now.

Tl;dr check your spoke tension

Did anybody ever experiment with geometry?
I have a 26" GT Steel frame, but I'm wondering, if I could use a 28" fork up front since I still have 28" disc wheel laying around. I think the frame is built for 80mm travel.

>>985427
>>985431
Thanks for the advices, i'll check the compatibility for new wheels and new brake caliper, hopefully it'll be good without too much frame work.

>Consider memeing it up with a brooks.
not gonna happen, shit's expensive !

>>985451
once i got a triangle stuck in my butt

>>985444
stainless steel on most decent bikes, some cheap galvanized steel on walmart tier BSOs

>>985446
>ain't no crabon spokes
there are, among some other bizarre material choices
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

>>985305
>8mm
fender posts,frame mounted locks
>9mm
older shimano derailleurs
>10mm
roller/coaster/drum brake attachement plate,dem tire electrics generators,headlights,
>13mm
saddle clamps,kickstands
>14mm
also saddle clamps,shitty 8mm front wheel axle nuts
>15mm
wheel axle nuts
>17mm
wheel axle nuts on xtremely shitty bikes and juvenile bikes

What's a good smooth tire to put on my rear wheel to match the 700x41 Surly Knard tire on the front?

>>985513
compass barlow pass :^)

>>985513
Conti Speed Rides are an awesome bang for the buck

>>985309
>>985310
>>985328
>>985329
>>985493
So many replies. Thanks guys!

>13mm
>kickstands
This must have been it. I removed the broken kickstand from my old beater several years ago.

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Moved to a more hilly area and would like to convert to a compact chainset. Not sure what to get though. Bike has a SRAM Isoflow 53/39 chainset with sram apex for the rest of the components. Thanks!

>>985679
is this what i'm looking for? http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-apex-compact-chainset-with-white-decals/

>>985679
>>985686
it would be helpful to know what you have currently before we can suggest what you might want to switch to

>>985713
53/39 and 11/28 10 speed

>>985729
And how much gear are you looking for? It might make more sense to switch to a cassette with a 32t largest cog than going to a 50/34 chainrings that would sacrifice some high gear ratios you'll want for the downhill parts of your riding.

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What are some 650b wheels good for a road bike? I would like to run these tires.

>>985515
>$80 tire

>>985566
This looks good, except it's not smooth.

any suggestions for a pair of pannier bags or a trunk bag for commuting/groceries? It needs to hold 100 lbs, and it'd be nice if it could be easily detached and used as a backpack or messenger bag.
I have a $60 budget.

Just got a bike, would this lock be theft proof?

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468891607&sr=8-5&keywords=kryptonite

honestly dont wanna spend more than $50 but if this is the best I could get, ill take it

>>985859

Nothing is theft proof

>>985875
so I probably shouldnt bike to campus yeah?

>>985875
>>985877
I mean, sure it can be stolen but if it takes longer than a minute to cut off then it'll be a less likelier target

>>985877

Not unless you are willing to accept the possibility of having your bike stolen.

The lock you linked is a pretty good choice, though.

When do I change between sitting upright and aero position? Is it for uphill? Downhill? Attacking the wind?

>>985893
When one position becomes uncomfortable.

Downhill and headwind, mostly.

>>985913
Why downhill?

>>985228
I want to make a Custom cycling Jersey. Where is the best website for this?

Is buying a used rear wheel with a freehub system worth it? What should I check for and how?

>>985743
looks like that option would be much cheaper can anyone recommend me a 10 speed cassette with a 32t

Feeling suicidal sort of.

How idiotic would it be to get a fully faired recumbent on the (Dutch) highway and then try to get behind a truck to benefit from the slipstream?

If I can sustain 400 watt for at least a few minutes I should be able to reach 80-90 km/h.
As long as I get behind a truck by then I can benefit from the slipstream and it will all be easy from there on, until I have to climb.

How much money can I expect to making national headlines and giving interviews and such?

>>986053
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iO7_Fq56g2c

don't do this at home

>>986054
How will cagers ever recover from this amount of BTFO?

>>986056
have you heard of hypermiling

>>986057
I always try to do pulse and glide if there isn't a truck in front of me.

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What kind of wheels and tires should I buy for a road bike like this? Same brand but 21" instead of 23 for frame. The wheels tire to tire are 26".
I know nothing about bikes.

How fast do you ride? What about the pros?

>>986099
I can hold my 53-11 big gear on flat ground for 20 minutes before i burn out.

>>986103
I mean on average over a long ride

newfag to biking. looking for a road bike to bike to class and ride on roads in general. hows this guy?

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/bik/5700315629.html

>>986053

My dad had a friend that died trying to slipstream a truck.

>How much money can I expect to making national headlines and giving interviews and such?

None. You won't even get much youtube traffic.

>>986110
>http://knoxville.craigslist.org/bik/5700315629.html
Large chainring is installed wrong side out but otherwise looks fabulous, that's a steal for 650 if you're about 6' tall or a little bigger. Only problem is that it's a pretty nice race bike, not really ideal for carrying books to class and leaving locked up outside.

>>986107
Personally around 25-30 km/h depending how hilly it is.

In pro bike races the average stage speeds are around 40-45 km/h for most flat or rolling stages, some very mountainous ones might get down to the low 30s, and short time trials can go over 50.

52/36 with an 11 32 cassette or 50/34 with a 11 28?

And yes I do live in a really hilly area.

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How do I take off this nut from my front axle? I'm trying to see what the state of the gears is (second-hand electric bike wheel) but I can't get the nut to move and spraying stuck-bolt-remover-spray on it for two days hasn't helped.

>>986169
If you have a short cage rear derailleur, which is standard on pretty much all road bikes then the max you can really go is a 30 tooth rear cassette.
A 52/36 with an 11/30 will get you around most hilly areas.

Hell, my lowest gear is a 39/30 and that's got me up every climb I've ever attempted.

>>986103
>>986164
Hope you two aren't the same person. If you ride a 53/11 at 25km/h you must be lacking a brain, and lacking any remaining cartilage on your knees...

>>986107
Long is relative. My long is 100km+, a guy at work's long is 400km+. I guess a starter maybe has 50km as long.

>>986175
Cheat bar

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>>986182
thanks for the suggestion, but I fear I'm already using too much force because the piece of the motor that I'm using for leverage already snapped off

>>986183
Erm, how the hell were you using "leverage".
That's not how they work dude, you turn it with a spanner or a deep socket. There should be no way you are using anything as leverage.

Bike people.

My gear cable that runs alongside under the frame came loose earlier and I couldn't change gear on the eight speed selector on my right.

I got home and pulled the cable further through the rear derailleur and tightened it up and now it's working fine. Did I do the right thing?

>>986187
well something has to be holding the axle still? I can't grip the axle with pliers, that would crush the thread on the axle

>>986164
I'm having a hard time breaking the 25 km/h barrier.

>>986198
There are nuts on both side you fucking moron?

>>986203
yeah but that nut isn't secured to the axle, it just spins on it. So I can't use that to hold the axle still

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Hey guys, I'm about to buy this wheelset, (http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_533230_-1) but I have a question.

Will I need (https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Shimano/dp/B00EEEBONK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469566687&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano+cassette+tool) or (https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-FR-5G-Cassette-Lockring/dp/B000R9ACZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469566687&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+cassette+tool) to install a cassette on it?

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So I just bought this old 80s frame for dirt cheap, I like the weight of it, it's a good size

Pic related, the frame in its heyday

But see the back brakes? They're underneath. I've never seen this.

Is there a reason why I'd do this?
Seems like it wouldn't help braking at all but would pick up a lot more dirt and gunk.

Maybe a very slightly lower centre of gravity? but why?

>>986169
50/34 with a 11 28
no need to meme it up lad

>>986175
Are you sure it isn't welded onto that plate, and the axle is meant to spin in the nut not the other way around?

If it's just a nut, then install a tire on the wheel, hold the tire against the ground for leverage and use a cheater bar.

>>986217

Yes.

>>986322
Which one

Any advice on choose a rear bike rack? Nothing to major, just for urban riding.

>>986323
a cassette tool not a freewheel tool. Get one with a handle if you don't have a big adjustable or you do have a toolboard/ space for tools.

I just got a 12% raise today. How do I resist the urge to N+1?

>>986327
Oh okay. Thanks man

Looking for a decent seat bag and a multi-tool, any suggestions?

>>986242
u-brakes and roller cams provided much stronger braking since the chainstays are generally less flexy than the seatstays. They weren't really picked up (most mass produced bikes stopped sporting them in the mid 80's) since they were so hard to adjust, the brake shoe wears into the tire, and they get mad dirty. Sick bicycle tho. Those Ross MTBs can be pretty nice.

>>986337

I am >>985233
I ended up ordering http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/topeak-mini-9-mt-multi-tool/rp-prod74902
Hasn't been delivered yet, though.

I was also looking at this
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/topeak-mondopack-xl-w-velcro/rp-prod57990
but i don't run my saddle high enough to fit it.
Found a Bontrager on clearance at an lbs. Seems sturdy.

How high should my saddle be on a road bike? Should I be able to straddle it and touch the ground with my feet?

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>>986365
Your knee should have a very slight bend at the bottom of the pedal stroke. No.

>>986366
leg should be completely straight with the heel of your foot on the pedal

>>986321
yeah, I have other motors like this (the gears broke before, so I'm kind of experienced in repairing these things) and the nut mainly works a spacer. Can't use the wheel as leverage because the motor is an 'outrunner', so the axle stays still while the wheel rotates

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I love cycling. Finally coming into some money and wondering...

What's the best bike (not frame) I can get for under $1500? I commute about 50 miles daily round trip. Looking for a road bike.

I currently ride a Miyata from '86 and have grown an inch or more in the past couple years so it's outta my shape.

Looking at pic related...

>>986386
50 miles round trip, dear god
get a car

>>986387
I have a car. 50 miles ain't shit. It's mostly flat.

>>986386
>pic related is $1500
where do you live

>>986391
San Diego

>>986386
Whoops that's $11,000
Not $1,100

>>986386
I imagine you'd be looking at an alloy frame with carbon forks, and mostly 105 drivetrain at the price.

Are you sure you want a pure roadie though? Rack and fenders are super handy, especially if your commute is that long.

>>986395
no rack or fenders for me

rain only happens 3-4 months of the year and I have storage on both ends of the trip

usually carry 100 oz of water and 5-7 lbs of luggage

>>986386
>>986390
>50 miles
>Mostly flat
You could up your budget by 500 and get a good recumbent.
Or (definitely) testride one and decide for yourself.

A 'bent is definitely going to be more comfortable and will have an easier time with baggage.

First 5-10 minutes can feel a little awkward riding one but then everything should click.
50 miles daily I'd definitely consider, it's much nicer on your neck, back and ass.

And you should probably already know but get a properly fitted saddle with DF bike if you don't already have a great saddle for your current bike.

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I could get a good deal on a nice fork.
the steerer has been cut to 170mm .
can't messure my bike atm.
is that especially short ?
I ride a 56.
does a 170mm steerer kill resale value ?

>>986390
. 50 miles? That's nothing

>>986469
If it's threaded it may work depending on the frame. If it's threadless it may not have enough steerer for the headtube, headset stack, and stem.

I have Shimano 105 5600 Shifters, RD and cassette on my bike- the problem I am having is due to the lack of reach adjustment on the shifters. I have small hands and reaching the brake levers from the drops is quite difficult and makes me quite unconfident on descents. My question is, would 105 5700 Shifters be compatible with my current RD and cassette? I already have an Ultegra 6700 FD, which it says it is compatible with.

Just replacing the shifters themselves would be ideal for me rather than having to replace shifters, RD and cassette, but I want to make sure that it would work before purchasing.

>>986491
Maybe you are better off changing your handlebars instead. Those can make a huge difference concerning your problem. Changing your shifters won´t do much.
Here. Maybe this helps:
http://www.bikehugger.com/post/view/why-anatomic-and-women-specific-handlebars-suck?PageSpeed=noscript

Will an 8-speed shifter work on a 6-speed cassette?

Why is it so hard to find a decent chip 6-speed thumb shifter?

>>986565
Because thumb shifters and 6-speed are from different eras.

>>986570

God never intended us to have 8 speeds. 7 is the holiest number, we may approach it with 6 speeds but we may not meet or exceed it lest our hubris destroy us.

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>>986553
I have these bars on my bike now: http://road.cc/content/review/26135-pro-plt-compact-drop-bars

Here is the way they look on my bike now. Do you know what kind of bars would be better? Even when I move my hands the very furthest point on the drops the levers are still quite awkard to reach.

>>986585
The bike came with a spare handlebar- http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fsa-wing-compact-road-bar/rp-prod69037 420mm. Could this possibly make a difference?

>>986491
Donald?

I just got into roadbiking, I went and bought a jersey and some shorts. The shorts have a gel padding near the crotch for the taint area, is this normal?

The seat kind of wrecks me if I ride it in normal running shorts.

>>986600
Gel? No. Chamois padding, yes. Don't wear underwear.

>>986602
Oh, I guess that's what it is. I don't think its actual gel.

Thanks, so pretty much all shorts of this?

>>986600
>The shorts have a gel padding near the crotch for the taint area
That 'gel padding' is an incubation tumor for the taint eating crotch larva, lat. Taintus Itchus.
Your shorts are ruined. Throw them away immediately, before the larvae hatch.

>>986603
Yes, and they vary in thickness.

>>986598
Nope, sorry!

>>986606
twss

I recently got my first non Walmart bike from a local shop - a mountain bike for getting around campus and riding local trails. I'm really enjoying cycling as exercise and a sport though, and want a bike more suited for the road. I need some advice on what's cheapest and most practical - get a budget ($300-400) road bike, or put drop bars and a road group set on my Walmart bike frame, which is a hybrid. I love my MTB's off-road capabilities but also want a better ride on the roads.

>>986633
>drop bars and a road group set on my Walmart bike frame
wewwww no, also good luck if you even tried

post local craigslist and size

>>986636
https://savannah.craigslist.org/search/bia
I'm 5'9"

>>986640
>https://savannah.craigslist.org/search/bia
Low end but proper road bike. Index shifting (clicks per gear). Triple crank which works well with downtube shifters (no finicky setup) and gives good low gears. Decent buy if the wheels are smooth and straight

https://savannah.craigslist.org/bik/5698428417.html
Much nicer frame, but less modern, high gearing (not great for climbing) and friction shifting (feel into each gear- this is actually kinda fun when you get used to it). Larger size than above. Fair price in perfect riding condition, maybe a bit high.

>>986645
https://savannah.craigslist.org/bik/5646828050.html
Low end but proper road bike. Index shifting (clicks per gear). Triple crank which works well with downtube shifters (no finicky setup) and gives good low gears. Decent buy if the wheels are smooth and straight


whoops

>>986645
>>986646
thanks, I'll look into these

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Recently bought this heap out of a guy's yard for $20
Quite a bit of it was fucked; big chainring, front derailleur, shifters/brakes, but I threw on some spare parts and did some modification to make it at least ridable to see if I even wanted to use the frame.
Turns out it's not a total piece of shit and I have no idea what I want to do with it.
Any suggestions?
I feel like it wouldn't be the best at anything, touring, cx, road, etc, so I guess my options are really open.

>>986660
That's a gravel grinder.

>>986660

Nice rebuild!

Would thrash fire roads with/10

>>986660
out of curiosity, what width are those tires? is there clearance for wider?

>canti brakes
>wheels/tires
>high-ish bottom bracket

that's optimal for the gravel/adventure meme, if you ask me.

I don't know enough about proper cx but maybe? most folks buying cx don't really race with them so the terminology gets confusing. seems like it would be hard to compete with the old tech, tho. so, probably not.

I don't see any compelling reason why this could not be a tourer.

>>986660
the crosspoint was schwinn's top-line hybrid during the final couple years - i be jelly of your score

>>986674
The tires on there are 38mm and there's actually a lot of clearance for bigger tires, and even fenders.

>>986666
>>986673
>>986676
Thanks m8s
I'm probably going to do it up as it is with new chain+FD, bar-end shifters, tires, and new pedals
Will probably use it as a bike camping/touring setup.

>>985283
m8 those are steel rims; chuck them into the nearest scrap metal yard and replace w/ Al-alloy

>>985768
Velocity USA A23

>>986087
can't see shit, cap'n

>>986326
stainless steel

>>986386
m80 just adjust your fit on your current miyata and keep on truckin'

What are the most frequent nut sizes found in OTS'? I'm sick of stripping nuts and bolts with the adjustable wrench but can't afford a whole wrench set right now.

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Overhauling a hub for the first time, and I absent mindedly took the cone and lock nut off both sides of the axle.
Will I still be able to centre the axle well enough? How much does it matter?

Thanks

>>986824
It's a front hub BTW

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what is this?

>>986876
A peg for mounting a frame pump.

>>986876
Spoke- or pump holder.

>>986824
>Will I still be able to centre the axle well enough?
Yes, unless you're using boxing gloves. Measure the ends as you drew the cones in.
>How much does it matter?
It's absolutely critical the axle doesn't stick outside the dropout. If it does you risk the skewer interfacing the axle and not the dropout. This will result in your wheel being (perhaps completely) loose on one side rather than clamped in. Grievous injury or death can result from this. Good quick releases are recessed to allow some room for error, but don't rely on this.

Make sure it's well centered.

I got a F. Moser Vitus Deluxe for 300€. The saddle is cheap shit, dérailleurs work like clockwork, shit tier tape on dropbars, cheap rims and rubber (but IDGAF), but I can't locate serial number. I washed it twice in the past 3 months, but never saw the number. Is that common?

>>986933
If it's not under the BB shell, check the dropouts

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>>986795
Learn2Wrench. The fixed blade should always be away from your pull or you strip the nut. There is nothing wrong with an adjustible wrench if used properly.

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I'm thinking about buying this as a bit of a restoration project but also as a bike to be used on a fairly frequent basis. Does /n/ k/n/ow anything about the framebuilder beyond what can be gathered from a quick scout of google? Columbus SL appears to be a good general purpose frameset and it seems to me that with some Ultegra parts it's a good deal, but happy to be corrected if people know better.

Link to the listing: gumtree.com/p/bicycles/rick-powell-columbus-sl-frameset-an-parts-21.5-size-hand-built-ultegra-/1180326483

>>986982
Still, you never get such a perfect grip as you would with a regular wrench of the correct size. Thanks for the tip though, hadn't even considered adjustable wrenches had a correct side.

Bout to change out my shifters for some new ones, I've never done this before and want to learn so I'm giving it a go myself.

Couple of questions:

My frame has two barrel adjusters do I screw these all the way in or out before laying the cable?
How tight do I pull the cable when attaching it to the deralleur?

>>987043
I set my adjusters to about middle, so I have some room to adjust a decent amount in either direction.

I try to pull the cable and derailleur tight enough to get things lined up well enough where I only need to do minor adjustments with it later.

>>987044
>>987043

There also seems to be an adjuster on the downtube as well, what is the point of this?

>>987052
For tweaking on the fly.
This makes the bike faster because F1 drivers do it too.

>>986933
Serial numbers on bicycles are often random and mean nothing. Vitus are french bikes and Mosers are italian. Iunno wtf is going on but i never heard of a collabo and it's probably just got some random stickers on it or some shit. Lets see some pics?

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>>987032
homeboy, throw in the towel
ya girl got dicked by Ricky Powell

>>987032
Lovely custom bike.

How much noise should my bike make on the road, more specifically the chain. It's not making any crazy noises just the noise of it going over the gears just not sure how much noise is normal/abnormal.

Also how often should I lube clean my chain? I've had my bike for about three weeks and noticed a bit of black stuff on the chain so I wiped it off with a napkin and used a bit of lube on it. I plan to eventually get a chain cleaner/lube device.

>>987185

Sounds like a normal amount of noise to me. Abnormal is usually a slight squeak at regular intervals(think every 2 seconds or so), gradually lengthening to a constant squeak.

I lube my chain every 200 miles, roughly twice a month. Chain cleaning is a pretty controversial topic: some people think it actually reduces the lifespan of the chain, some people don't. I personally do degrease my chain once a month(every other lube), let it dry, then apply lube. I use a sponge to degrease though, KMC advises NOT to use a purpose-built tool to clean chains. This is because they do their job too well and strip off lube completely off the chain, including places that will be very difficult for the new coat of lube to penetrate. I use a sponge, because that's what pro team mechanics use kek.

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I'm fairly broke. Can this change be salvaged?

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I've got an old road bike that I'm fixing up, but I need to replace the rear dérailleur. The gear shifters are currently downtube shifters, so does it matter what kind of dérailleur I buy or would it make no difference as opposed to having twist/lever shifters?

>>987217
It doesn't matter at all. With indexed twist/ lever shifters it doesn't matter either (with some exceptions)

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>>987223
Thanks man. Was thinking of getting this one, just wanted something relatively cheap

>>987234
I recently put this exact derailleur on an old 90s rigid mtb with a seized derailleur to bring it back to life. I'm amazed by the performance-to-price ratio. It's smooth, quiet, and accurate. Despite what the Freds might say, it's a truly great component for recreational cycling on a budget.

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>>987202
If that's just rust on the outside of the plates, probably. If it's on any friction surfaces, it'll be trouble

See if you can peek through the gaps between the plates. Hopefully some lube will have remained trapped in there and protected it from the rust.

>>987245
thanks for the reply. i'll take a look inside when i give it a degrease and lube.

My bike's got a double chainring, outer is 54 teeth, inner is 42. I need a new front mech, but I'm having trouble finding one big enough within my budget. Is there a tolerance in the max capacity of a front mech? Like if I got one that had a 48 tooth capacity could it suffice for 54?

I recently bought a used old trek 400 series, and it has a campagnolo drive train (either triomphe or victory). It did not come with original pedals and so I bought some cheap used ones until I get a better pair, and there's some difficulty threading them in. The first few threads go fine, but then its too tight to go any further without a wrench. Should there be this resistance only about four threads in? Should I put some grease on the threads? I already tried 20 weight oil.

>>987261
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/front-derailers.html

Look for a used shimano road fd.

>>987262
Yes you should grease pedal threads, but mainly so they're easy to remove. Thoroughly clean the threads with a solvent. It sounds like you're cross threading though. Just be patient and maybe the threads are in bad shape so you should support the pedal with your hand while you thread it. Don't force it. Having to use a wrench is ok, but not with really any force.

Has anyone had any experiences using naval jelly (phosphoric acid) to derustify rust spots before painting?

I would be happy if you could help me with this

Say I start a ride at the top of a hill. At first I descend at 30km/h without kicking my legs. This descend lasts me 1 minute. At the foot of the hill I have to stop 1 minute to let traffic pass. Then I ride up the hill at 30km/h producing 300W. The climb lasts me a minute. When I reach the top, I end my 3 minute ride.

My ride lasted 3 minutes and I covered 1km total in it.
What is my average speed, average cadence and average wattage?

Is my average wattage 300W (over the 1 minute I was actually producing wattage), 150W (over the 2 minutes where I was "moving" I produced a total of 60x300W), or 100W (I was "recording" for 3 minutes which is the length of my ride)
Is my average cadence 90RPM, as when I was pedaling I did it at a constant 90RPM pace? Is it 45RPM as I had 2 moving minutes and I produced 90 rotations total? Is it 30RPM as I kicked 90 rotations in a 3 minute ride?
Is my average speed 30km/h as when I was moving I did it at a constant speed of 30km/h, or is it 20km/h as I had a minute of 0kmh that brought my average down?

>>987289

150w
90RPM
20km/h

I drunkely mounted my tires last night. Tires are rotational and are on the wrong way. Will it make a huge difference in rolling resistance?

>>987304

When did you first realize that you are such a lazy piece of shit that you need to ask other people to do your googling for you, and your first response to realizing that you fucked something up is some kind of disgusting pseudo-algebra to decide if un-fucking it or leaving it will cost you more effort?

>>987304
Turn them around man, it'll take you five minutes.

>>987306
You mad, downtube?

>>987308

A downtube is a part of a bicycle.
The word is not used as a pejorative anywhere outside of your diseased mind.

>>987306
thanks for your valuable contribution !

>>987310
This kiddy so upset. Who pissed in your breakfast this morning?

installing a new brake cable on my single speed bike but is the rear break supposed to feel tight? i cant get this thing installed properly. when i squeeze the brake lever the brake pads barley move back to where they were and the level is super loose. is there a good video on how to install a rear brake?

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I have shit posture and I'm trying to ride a bike for cardio. Got an old mtb with slixx and other mods I made for commuting. Any suggestions for riding without worsening my hunch?

>>987369

Take up yoga instead

>>987240
Nice. Looks much better than the heavy one that I currently have.

Why is everything that Campagnolo produces extraordinarily overpriced? Bora Ultra wheelsets retail for $3,500 yet top-of-the-line Zipps cost no more than $3,000. Similarly, their Ultra-Torque cranks cost over $1,000 yet are marginally stiffer and lighter than an FSA K-Force Light crankset which is $400 less

>>987400
a big part of campagnolo's marketing is (or at least was for a while) that they last forever. they could be more expensive for the perception (or perhaps reality) that they'll last way longer

>>987400

Not entirely true.
Entry-level Campy is no more expensive than comparable Shimano or Sram. The main issue for people in the US that clock up real mileage is that their cogs are more expensive, less available, and offer less range.

Ok dudes

My commuter bike is creaking, somewhere from the lower part of my bike. I thought it was the cranks, i tightened it but it still creaks.

It creaks when my left crank is at 11 o clock position. It also goes away when I load my panniers or carry substantial weight. What could it be?

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>>987400
Budget campy wheels are cheap af though. They even charge slightly more for equivalent fulcrum wheels which they make as well for shimanobabbies who can't handle a branding clusterfuck bike. Ergopowers are often cheaper than stis too.

>>987466

Bottom bracket? Pedals? Check pedals first, much easier to fix.

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>>987466
>somewhere from the lower part of my bike
Don't make this assumption bikes are deceptive. It could be fucking anything. The most common thing ime is the saddle or the bars.

>>987466
>mysterious drivetrain sound
Good luck with that, it could be anything. It could even be something somewhere else, even if you hear it "from the lower part". Fucking bicycle magic.

>>987466
check your spoke tightness. wheels that are left unmaintained for a little while can loosen up and the spokes start to rub against each other under the weight of the rider

>>987472
>>987473
>>987474
>>987477
Well shit. I went to the co-op and they said it would take time to chase it down. It's just mysterious how the creaking goes away when my rack is loaded. thanks m8s

>>987492
> It's just mysterious how the creaking goes away when my rack is loaded. thanks m8s

That makes me think headset. Check yo nuts

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>>987492
when shops say it'll take time to do something they mean it'll take time to not do it because they're lazy shits

>>987497
Imagine if you worked as a mechanic and some guy came with his bike and told you there's a mysterious creaking sound coming somewhere from his bike, don't you think it'd take you a while to find what it is?

I'm missing the 1mm metallic spacer that goes between the freehub body and the 10spd Shimano cassette. I've been to several LBS asking for it, or if they had some sort of spare box where they could have one laying around, but no luck. And I don't want to pay shipping plus wait two months for a sub $1 item. What can I use instead? I tried with hollowed out plastic pogs but they just break after tightening the cassette.

>>987500
>>987466
>>987492

99.9999% chance it's the seatpost anyway. Grease dat pole up boi ;)

I can't get my derailleur to shift well anymore. I carefully adjust the indexing as I have many times before, but there is either upshift hesitation, downshift hesitation, or both.

The hanger is straight, the cable routing to the pinch bot is straight, I am using the correct chainring for each rear gear, and I have just fully cleaned and lubed the drive train.

The only thing I notice is that the derailleur pivots feel gritty when I move it by hand. Can I disassemble, clean, and relube a derailleur as a home mechanic?

At what humidity/temp do you stop riding at as a beginner?

I live in texas and it's been 100+ during the day and 85ish at night with fucking 66%-82% humidity which is INSANE.

>>987344
>installing a new brake cable on my single speed bike but is the rear break supposed to feel tight? i cant get this thing installed properly. when i squeeze the brake lever the brake pads barley move back to where they were and the level is super loose. is there a good video on how to install a rear brake?
Try to loosen the bolt holding the brake through the brake bridge. If you overtighten it it won't spring back

Hello.

I am finally ready to get rid of my small, shitty mountain bike I got in 8th grade.

My budget is 500-1000 dollars and I mean to get a bike that can go long distances. I'm thinking of a road bike, obviously, but after there I'm pretty much at a loss as to what I should be purchasing or looking into.

Are there any other brands I should be looking at aside from trek or giant?

>>987540
What do the shops in your area stock?

But those brands are fine if you're looking for new, although generally what's on the bike is more important than the name on the frame.

>>987543
>what's on the bike
elaborate.

>>987545
Groupset including brakes and drivetrain, wheels, that sort of thing.

At 1k if I had to guess you'd be looking at around Tiagra for an alloy road bike.

>>987548
ah, I see. I'm moving in 2 weeks and I plan on getting my bike at the destination, so I haven't had a chance to stop into my 'local' bike shop.

>>987556
It's worth considering used at that price. Post your craigslist and your size when you move.

>>987526

The pivot pins are peened in, so not entirely.

Take it off and scrub it real good under running water with some dish soap and a brush.

Check and regrease your sprocket bearings/bushings assuming they're not sealed. If they've got a lot of side-side play, they'll need replacing.

Put a drop of chain lube on all the pivot points, let it dry and wipe off the excess.

I need a new saddle. Don't give me this bullshit about individuality, what is the best road saddle on the market today?

>>987565
fi'zi:k® Arione™ 00 with carbon braided rails

>>987569

Thanks anon- I'm going to place an order now for a couple.

>>987565
regal

>>987526
maybe need the spring replaced?

I've got most of the essentials after buying a 2013 allez sport, but I don't have clip pedals/shoes.

Are there specific brands/price range recommendations? I don't want to waste money or not spend enough and end up with something garbage.

Also on a more serious/important question, how do the consumable co2 tanks know "when to stop filling up your tube"? I bought one marked 100 because that's what mine are supposed to be aired up to, but will it just automatically stop at 100? I can't imagine it works like that.

Have any of you had any issues with factory direct bikes?
I was told at my local shop that the quality of a bike depends on who put it together, is there any drop in quality when it's assembled at a factory, or was he just trying to meme me into buying one of their bikes?

>>987684
I'd believe there is some mechanical aspect to it. Some component that can detect the psi of your tube.

>>987686
That's kind of insane that the attachment + co2 can just straight up do that, thanks. Didn't want to overfill/explore my tubes.

>>987688
>>987684

Co2-powered tire pumps will not inflate your tire up to appropriate pressure because they don't really have enough gas to do so.

They are intended as an emergency measure - they inflate your tire enough that you can ride home after patching a flat. That's it.

>>987697
Oh so I'd still need to buy a pump? Thanks.

Do you have clipless pedal/shoes reccomendations/price range?

>>987698

Yeah, you'll want/need a proper floor pump.

Shimano pedals or Wellgo knockoffs of Shimano pedals. SPDs if you want a walkable cleat, SPD-SL if you want real road bike pedals. TIME and Speedplay also make excellent pedals with various features. Look, too. Crank Bros should kinda be avoided.

Shoes - whatever fits your feet best. I'm fond of Pearl Izumi - they do good products. Sidis are reputedly the best. If I were buying shoes today, I would want to check out Fizik's offerings but I have no experience with them.

>>987699
Thanks man, I appreciate it. Going back to my local bike shop to see their selection.

>>987698

Not that guy, but I've used Speedplay Zero, Shimano 5800 pedals, and Look Keo2 blades, all work fine.

Speedplays are nice for beginners, being doublesided, but the cleats are insanely expensive to replace(40 bucks for a pair compared to ~10-15 per pair for Shimano or Look.)

For commuting I prefer to use MTB pedals, as their cleats are recessed and you can still walk like a normal human being in MTB shoes.

Speedplay Zero:
https://www.raceviewcycles.com/speedplay-zero-cromo-pedals-black?language=en&currency=USD

Shimano 5800 pedals:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-clipless-spd-sl-5800-105-carbon-pedals/

Look Keo2 Blades:
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/look-keo-blade-2-pro-team-carbon-cromo-pedals/

>>987700

Happy to help.

Be sure to wear the socks you intend to ride in, if you are going to try on shoes. They should be somewhat more snug than normal walking shoes, without being uncomfortable or putting pressure on any part of your foot. You can fine-tune this a bit with the straps.

>>987698
>>987703

You can buy pedals online, but always always always try on the exact shoe you buy in person. Either buy at your LBS or sports outfitter, or try it on there, memorize what size feels right, then buy online.

Shoe companies all size differently. Shimano tends to run narrow but true to size length, Giro always runs small to length and narrow as well.

>>987703
>>987704
>>987705
Thanks, what is the difference between "flat" clipless pedals and the ones with the little lip at the end. I figure its for grip/pushing power, but is it ever really a bad/good thing or just a preference?

>>987707

That's just where the cleats lock into the pedal. Speedplays are just lollipops that you screw into your crankarms, the mechanism that keeps your feet attached to the pedals is in the cleat(the part that you screw into your shoes.)

I help a fair number of randos in my area get into road cycling, and I have a spare pair of speedplays just to help them get used to foot retention. It really is the easiest to get used to. Once they're into it I steer them toward Shimano pedals, cheapest and decent quality.

>>987531
Very similar boat here in Arkansas, I just give up during the hottest parts if the year. I've no trouble riding in the winter, I've even ridden in Cleveland in lake effect snow with little issue. But for me the heat is just for too much, you'll kill yourself doing that.

>>987710
Really sucks to be since I just got my bike and want to ride really bad. I'm hoping for a night that isn't super humid and is at least in the 80s.

>>987715
Good luck, we've still got august to go.

https://newyork.craigslist.org/search/bia
6,4
Help

>>987753
wat price wat activuteis

If I want a good all around multipurpose bike, am I better off getting a cruiser or a hybrid?

>>987759
all road gravelcross adventure bike m8

basically a hybrid with higher level componenets and drop bars

that aside a cruiser isn't really good for anything aside from looking "trendy"

>>987761
I was considering that as well

What about something like the Diamondback Edgewood?

>>987763

Low end bikes can be servicable, unless they have suspension. If it's under a grand and has suspension, that fork will be the death of you.

>went on first ride on road bike (after gym to be fair)
>road probably 3-5 miles, don't have a computer yet
>lower back hurt pretty bad after 75% through

Is it posture? Do I just need to ride more or what?

>>987847
>after gym

Do you do a well rounded workout including you core?

It definitely may take some getting used to. Stretching can also help.

>>987847

If you haven't ridden much, probably that.

Two other very common issues that cause backpain: saddle too low, handlebars too far away.

>>987848
Yeah, I'm pretty /fit/ and even push myself to do a 3 day split of full body. I don't do deads/OHP though because of my shit ass back and a genetic problem.

Stretching is a good idea, thanks.

>>987849
Can you adjust how close handlebars are? Or is that just something you need to handle when buying your bike? I don't think thats my problem I just wasn't aware they were adjustable in that way.

I don't think my saddle is too low, but I'll check that too, thanks man.

>>987853

You can buy a shorter stem, or move your saddle forward if there's wiggle room in saddle position.

>>987854
Thanks, i'll give that a look

>>987856
Your best bet is to find the old knowledgeable guy in a friendly 'community' focused bike shop with second hand parts and get him to look at your position and give you some free advice.

Your next best bet is to find a racing oriented shop and pay someone over the age of 25 to do a basic 10 minute fit on you. They do comprehensive fits, which are totally worth it, but expensive, and they should do a basic fit for you.

I don't know if this is the right place to ask, I never came here before now, but here goes anyway.

I've been wanting to get my arse outside more often again and get some exercise. Originally I thought about running/jogging but recently I've seen a lot of people cycling and felt kind of envious. I always used to cycle a lot, my Grandad and I probably covered the entire county when I was a kid.

I don't really have a clue how to get back in to it. I'm going to fix up an old bike I found in the garage to make sure I'm still capable and haven't forget how to ride one. It's probably not good for anything much though, it's in a pretty sorry state and it's not a road bike.

I'm waffling. I guess I just wanted to ask if there's any sort of "Getting Started" copypasta or infographic or anything you guys have.

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>>987870
I reckon watch some movies to learn a bit and get motivated; A Sunday in Hell and Nasu: Summer in Andalusia. Then post your old bike on here and get some tips. Anything is worth riding to an extent. If you have a local co-op go there to fix it. Sheldon Brown is a good /n/ meme site. When you want a nice bike post your local auction website and we can help you find something.

cycling feels good mane.

Riding a fork without entire damper cartridge just for one ride?

The internals would be lubed up and I see no problem with that (I know that it would be a pogo stick w/o a damper)

>>987880

No problem, the travel limits are determined by the spring side on most forks.

>>987870
> I guess I just wanted to ask if there's any sort of "Getting Started" copypasta or infographic or anything you guys have.

>Step 1: Acquire bike.
>Step 2: Ride bike.
>Step 3: ...
>Step 4: Profit!

This is literally how you get started. Sure, there are a lot of subtleties, but you learn those as you go along.

>>987968
I guess. Well I find my Dad's old mountain bike in the garage and I've pumped up the tires ready to fall off because I have no balance or crash in to things because I panic and stare them. Waiting to see if they stay inflated now really but i'm thinking I might get a helmet tomorrow before I go anywhere; I don't feel very confident in not cracking my head open like a watermelon.

One thing I've noticed about it is it keeps popping back in to 2nd or 3rd, is that normal? It doesn't do it when I was riding round but when I stop usually. I'll try giving it a clean and oiling I guess, if I can find any.

>>987975
Consult the Parktool site for guides on how to tune your drivetrain. Also lower the saddle so you can stand on both feet while sitting on it, that way you'll feel safer while finding your balance. Once you're confident enough you can raise it to proper height.

>>987978
Proper height's about on your toes right? That's where it is now, I'll see if it'll drop any more but it does look there's much left.

>>987979
A good rule of thumb is having your leg fully extended while you're sitting down, the pedal is in the downmost position and your HEEL is on the pedal. That way, when the ball (not toes) of your foot is on the pedal (as it should) your leg is slightly bent.

>>987981
It seems about right as is then if I'm understanding you correctly. Thanks.

>>987984
You still should lower the saddle as low as it'll go while you're learning how to ride, then raise it when you're confident enough on your balance.

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So I bought my first road bike for urban commuting. I plan on changing the tires to some thicker Marathons (where I live there's lots of cobblestone and tram tracks) as well as getting new brake pads. Is there anything else that you'd recommend I change/fix?

I still feel really really uncomfortable on this thing. Maybe it's the road bike position but I feel like I'm about to flip forward especially when using the downtube shifters or standing. It's a 55 and I'm 1.75m with an average (30cm) inseam so I assume the fit is right. The hoods feel pretty far from me and compared to most road bike pictures here, they're not "flush" with the bars themselves, instead forming something like a √. Will I just get used to it?

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my post is very similar to >>988058 but mine happens to fit my really well with minimal adjustment.

I got this bike yesterday; my first road bike after a lifetime of mountain bikes.
so apparently it was made in 1961. I thought it was mid 70s from the design and levers.
its also the first significantly used bike I ever bought
anyway I know I need to replace brake pads, rim tape, tubes and tires, they seem to all be extremely old.
I will also need new grip tape, and I want to remove the clips and ride on flats (roadie noob).
what other things should I look out for that tend to need replacement after so many years? I only rode it for 10 minutes so far and it shifts and feels great (apart from the dubious tires and breaks)

>>988058
That bike is a bit too big for you. Hoods feel like that due to the classic bend drops. You'll probably never really feel comfortable on it. Try sliding the saddle forward, and rotating the bars upwards.

>>988068
Good ideas. I'll do both of them tomorrow. Do you reckon I'll need to take off the electric tape to rotate the bars upwards?

Is there an equivalent of:

http://www.logicalincrements.com

for bikes? If not, anything remotely similar? And why not?

>>988058
>leg nano
Is that Italiano for babbylegs?

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>>988058
>30cm
Nigga do you leg have length of a ruler?

>>988073
No, just loosen the stem clamp bolt a bit

/n/ recommended flat pedals?

>>988058
>30cm inseam
what the fuck are you? a chimp?

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>>988105

Giant pinned platforms

>>988105
MKS Lambdas for city riding

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>>988109
Don't you think these have a better grip?

>>988111

lol hell no

have you ever actually ridden bicycles before?

>>988075
'building' a bike is not cost effective

Have an exage sport hub with Shimano cassette. What park tool remover do I need to take off cassette ? Needs to repack the hubs.

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>>988124
A Shimano cassette remover

>>988124
a lifeline cassette tool and a chain whip

>>988075
Depending on your price range, it's either more effective to buy used, or just buy something from the shop.
If you're on a budget, and want a commuter sort of bike, usually an old ten speed or rigid 90's mtb are recommended, which you can likely find a bunch on craigslist for cheap.
Building a bike from components isn't as cost effective as it is for a computer, but you can get decent deals, and if you happen to find a used frameset you like, it might be worthwhile to do that and then buy a groupset.
Probably the most expensive individual parts for a bike are the wheelset and frameset, and those are where you'll want to put more money into. You can always upgrade the groupset later.

I've heard that "bone conducting" headphones are very safe to wear while riding, is that true? They leave your ears open so you can be safe - but still listen to music.

I'm a big music person, and I don't ride anywhere beautiful/super busy city so I sometimes get a little bored. Would you think it's safe to wear them?

https://www.amazon.com/Aftershokz-AS400-Sportz-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B00JO9XTSI?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

>>988174
Nope, the problem with listening to music on a bike has nothing to do with headphones or the sound itself - you can be completely deaf and ride a bicycle perfectly safely. The real problem is that music can distract you from paying attention to your surroundings, and also that many people rely too much on their hearing and don't check over their shoulders before changing lanes or making a turn.

>>988175
So it's probably just as safe to wear ear buds? I might do that, because there is very little traffic where I ride, and I am paranoid on checking so I don't get slammed into the ground

>>988176
Yep, riding with headphones is perfectly safe as long as you always visually check that you have a clear path before changing lanes or turning.

I'm going to take my wife to the mountain bike park. I've got a decent bike, she's got a shitty step through that might result in her dying out there- hopefully she'll have a good enough time to head straight out and get a decent bike.

Anyone have success with such a strategy?

I did 7.2 miles in ~30 minutes for my first real ride today on my roadbike, I haven't done cardio in a long time and only lift. Is this decent?

My biggest constraint that holds me back is my thighs start to ache and my wrists/arms/back get really sore.

>>988175
This

Just listen to music you're super familiar with

I'm going to buy some clipless pedals today...

What's the deal with stiffness? I plan on putting them on my road bike but I'll be getting something that is also compatible with my enduro.

Do I want stiff or soft or something in the middle? Just whatevers comfortable?

I'm very used to shoes that almost don't exist.

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why?

>>988236
Stiff gives better power transfer, but makes them useless for walking.

If you're going for cross compatibility between the bikes you'll be looking at 2-bolt spd shoes.

So you have the choice: do you want a serious shoe for riding only or something you can get off and wonder with. Serious mountain bike shoes are quite similar to road ones, just with a bit more tread on the bottom.

>>988243
weight probably

>>988244
>or something you can get off and wonder with
I thought that was unheard of. what would be the drawback?

>>988243
I am just got that the call this egg beater because similiar look the electric whisker attachment metal parts. Who is though using that for rather than cake or egg whites and beating eggs after eggs might easily be whisked merely by fork is not egg white beaters or cake beaters?

>>988244
besides being soft **

>>988246
They flex when you pedal, meaning you lose watts (how many, I have no clue). Might be heavier than a shoe constructed primarily with a carbon sole.

>>988254
So I'll just get the calfs involved. Either way it will be better than my skeleton style running shoes.

>>988255
You can get shoes that you can walk in but don't flex. My Shimano RT82 shoes are stiff and the sole design rolls the shoe as you walk to mimik the flex that you would have with a normal walking shoe. I know I'm not explaining that well but walking feels natural despite not flexing. They basically roll instead of flex.

But if you're not planing on doing any walking, like through a supermarket or anything, then you may as well just dedicated cycling shoes which will be lighter and arguably stiffer if you have the budget for high end shoes. But my RT82s are plenty stiff enough. Reasonable ventilation too.

Anything would be better than running shoes, though.

>>988276
I use my roadie to get around town but I also have a fixie for that purpose. Is there any reason I WOULDN'T get shoes you can walk around in?

>>988279
Dedicated cycling shoes tend to be lighter and, on average, stiffer than shoes you can walk in. They also have a wider/bigger cleat which increases the contact patch where shoe meets pedal and that reduces 'hot spots' where pressure is concentrated in a smaller area and that can cause discomfort for some on longer rides. But I've done century rides in my Shimanos without noticing any discomfort.
I also have Louis Garneau CFS 300 (dedicated cycling) shoes for my other bike so I don't want to sound like I'm pro-shimano or anything. My LG are more comfy but they cost a lot more too.

Sorry, I know I'm not being very helpful but I really don't see much difference between my two different shoes. But for commuting and getting around town I'd probably recommend a walkable shoe for added practicality. Others may have a different view.

>>988281
Sounds like I should get the stiff ones for my roadie only and git gud at the fixie. It will be years or never that I get clipless on my enduro so I should probably get something dedicated.

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>>988283
Sounds like a plan! Keep us updated.

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I'm building an old budget cyclocross bike for winter.

Will rar Microshift BS-A10 barend shifter work with Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 Speed Rear Mech?

sorry for the lack of links, 4chan thinks I was posting spam.

>>988291
All Microshift products are Shimano-compatible.

>>988291
You can get Dura Ace 10 speed bar ends for $73 us on wiggle and $59 on crc.

>>988291
>>988295
No, not for the 4700 generation. They have a different wirepull ratio to previous 10spd road Shimano generations.

>>988303
>>988306
What if I already have bought the microshift shifter (cheap second hand item from my country's ebay)? What rear derailleur should I get that works?

>>988312
4600. Or 5700, 3500, or pretty much anything that is road 7/8/9/10 but not 4700. The 3500 derailleur has the added advatnage of accepting up to 32t cassettes. You could even go with a T4000 Alivio derailleur for 36t cassettes if you want extreme range.

>>988190

Stop worrying about it and just ride your fucking bike.

>>988317
The big range of the T4000 Alivio is tempting. But in the crc's website they say it's a 9 speed derailleur, does it still work with the 10 speed microshift shifter?

>>988325
Yes. They have the same wirepull ratio as the old, pre-4700 tenspeed road levers. All 9spd Shimano derailleurs do, so you can safely mix 7/8/9/10-speed non-DynaSys derailleurs with any Shimano compatible shifter. As long as there is no 4700.

>>988326
Thank you! That was extremely helpful!

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What the fuck is Dyna-sis?

I'm thinking of purchasing a deore crankset on chain reaction in order to upgrade my touring unit to a 10 speed drivetrain (my rings are worn out anyways so I figured I might as well just get nice new compatible shit,) but I'm concerned for whatever reason it won't work

I'm planning on getting a tiagra 12-28 cassette, 105 mid cage rear derailleur and ultegra chain. Will be running with a 10 speed 105 STI lever and an old triple RSX STI lever. Any reason this would be a problem?

>>988323
this

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>>988378
I'm also rebuilding my rear rim with a Tiagra hub in order to upgrade to 10 speed. I'm going to have to respace the hub to fit the dropout spacing because it's an 80's Cannondale.

Would it be ideal to take the additional dish into account when I do my spoke calculations? How can I do this?

I have an entry level bike, it rides well, it is not fancy and weights almost 11kg. I have some money and I was thinking about spending I on the bike. Should I upgrade the heavy wheels?, should I upgrade something else? The frame is bombproof but the fork is hi-ten steel. Should I ride it until destroyed and then get a new bike?, I expect having 9000km on the bike at the end of the year.

>tfw graduating from college this month
>already have rigid 90's MTB beater/commuter
>moving to DFW
I want a new bike lads but I also want to keep my heavy POS for grocery shopping and shit. I want a bike solid enough for mtb trails nearby (mostly rocky but not too hilly or technical)
Any advice, Lads? I like Kona but i don't kow what else should look at.

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>>988424
>tfw forgot tfw

>>988414
Just make sure if you replace parts on it that you buy shit nice enough to be worth putting on whatever bike you upgrade to

>>988414
pics? It really depends.Tires if you have cheap ones will make the biggest difference. Brake pads, recabling, new bar tape, new chain.

Wheels are a good upgrade because you can put them on a nicer bike. Never change a stock fork that isn't bent.

Almost 11kg is not that bad at all. Lots of 80s/90s race bikes weigh more.

>>988424
You need to give more info for specific advice. Look for something on pinkbike.com/buysell if you want to buy used.

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Hey guys, I have a question.

My bikes inner tube recently got punctured, the one that it happened to was the standard, came with the bike cheapo inner tube so I'd rather not waste time patching it. When I pulled the inner tube off the wheel, I found the measurements "25 / 32 x 622" on there, and when I googled that it told me to look for a 700c inner tube that was 1 - 1.25 inches wide.
I picked one up and draped it over the tire, because its at least an inch or two too long, and a bit too wide. So I'm at a bit of a loss for what it is I'm looking for, as somebody who is new to shopping for bike tires / inner tubes, any help would be very much appreciated as my bike is my transportation to and from work.

http://www.target.com/p/schwinn-men-s-trailway-28-700c-hybrid-bike-bronze/-/A-15547829

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Hey guys I bought this old guy for a few bucks some months ago and the Axle already broke.
I'm still riding it until I find a fix.
It's an old motobecane, do you think I will be able to find an axle that fits the gear and all? I went to and old bike repair shop and they said they woulr have to replace the entire wheel and probably the gear too, at least 50-75€. Not sure if they weren't trying to scam me.

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what's this finish called ?

Are there /g/-style tier lists floating around for kit manufacturers? Looking to pick up some cheapish stuff and want to get good value.

i want a new cassette; does it have to be the same brand as the rest of my drive train? Can i use a shimano cassette when the rest of the drive train is sram?

>>988815
dhb are good
they're on sale on wiggle atm as well

>>988837
So long as it's the same speed it's probably fine

I have a marin eldrige grade with a 1 1/8 fork , non ahead.
can I use any quill stem or are there actually sperate 1 1/8 " quill stems ?

>>988837

I think up to 9 speeds it should work , 10 and 11 speeds , I'm not so sure.
shimano changed there pull ratios for the rear deraileur between mtb and road , sram didn't I think there might be a problem

So someone on here told me the bonds between carbon and aluminum were the weak points.

What's more dangerous? A hard hit or a bunch of little hits. I mean obviously if I slam into a brick wall it will do more damage than if I go over a curb, but I'm concerned about the effects of a really rough road on the bonds.

I have a road bike with 700x23c tyres on it (came by default), and I'm wondering if it's possible to put cyclocross tyres on it (commuting)?

I ride a pretty flat asphalt road all the way to work and back so I don't need a total cx bike, I was just wondering if it's possible for me to put cx tyres on my wheels, or would I not have enough clearance? The reason is that come autumn there's a lot of leaves and branches and crap on one of the bike paths and on my current summery tires I already have bad grip on rainy days so that would seriously fuck me up

>>989196
https://janheine.wordpress.com/2013/03/12/how-wide-a-tire-can-i-run/

That aside it's pretty unlikely you'll be able to fit 32s (which is what most cyclocross tyres are), 25s are probable, 28s maybe.

That said grip on wet surfaces is about having a lower pressure than normal, maybe rubber compound, and having a non-smooth (but not knobbly) pattern.

Something a 25 or 28c continental 4 seaons might be up your alley.

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>Usually wake up for a ride (15-20 miles, just started riding)
>Eat some energy gummies and drink some water
>Go out and ride

This morning
>Wake up
>Eat some breakfast, eggs, bacon and toast
>Let it sit for about 45 minutes
>Half way through my ride start feeling like shit, like I'm about to puke
>Continues in waves until I finish my ride
>Feel the same for about 10 minutes after I get off my bike

So either eating a meal before a ride is a mistake or I pushed myself much harder than usual and didn't realize it. Admittedly I felt more worn out than usual but didn't feel like I was putting in more work.

>>989205
Too much protein. You want about equal parts protein to carbs for any meal, but for a pre-ride meal you want even more carbs. Your kidneys are working over time to break down all the eggs and bacon into energy which is why you feel like crap.

And this is multiplied because it's not something you normally eat.

>>989207
I usually eat eggs and bacon just not typically before a ride. I think I'll stick to eating energy gummies or bars + water before riding as having to stop and puke would be rather embarrassing.

>>989203
thank you sir. Also, are 23c tyres getting fazed out? I hear more and more about people going wider even on their sporty racebikes


>>989205
I personally never eat before my morning ride. Get out of bed, on the bike 10 minutes later and ride for an hour. Drink some water on the way

>>989210
They're becoming less common as 25c becomes the standard for sure, but there's no way they're going anywhere.

There are plenty of bikes, old and new which will only accept tyres that wide.

Finally found thread

Ok, so I've started learning how to bike because without one I won't ever get any exercise and will never be able to make my hellish schedule. All I have is my father's old Huffy Overlander, which has... problems. Its brakes SUCK and grab at different times, the gear shifter sounds like its mincing a whale every time it changes and often sends a shock through the entire bike, the bike itself just feels heavy and flimsy, and the saddle can't be adjusted or from what I can tell even removed.
From what I've read online its a department store bike, though my father can't confirm. Is it worth taking to the bike shop and salvaging? If not, what would be a good replacement? I'm pretty set on having a hybrid, but I don't know for sure if that is the direction I should go.

>>989255
Post pics.
I've been in a very similar situation than you.
My advice is: check the frame and the gear.
If they are solid and without signs of it being weakened (rusty etc) then I think it's worth a shot. More importantly because you are starting, if you can avoid compromising the money that costs a new bike, do so. If you really start digging it, then you already would know what to look for and how much you think this activity should cost you.

Change all your cable setup. My bike was an old piece of shit from the 70s. I made a few changes here and there but at the moment i changed the shifter and brake cables it started to behave like a new bike.
You can learn how to do it yourself and it shouldn't cost you more than 15-20$

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Should I upgrade my stock bontrager wheels with a nice new wheelset or buy a power meter?

I'm not sure what will help me more. The stock wheels are kinda shitty, the bearing aren't sealed which sucks because I live in Washington and it rains a bunch.

I can't afford both, since power meters are fucking expensive. At least stages are.

>>989459
Wheels are good if you want to get a quick boost of speed by improving aero or weight

PM is good if you want to train smarter and get faster over time.

I'd recommend watching classifieds, people are often unloading barely used second hand stuff.

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My fork is stuck in my frame and i dont know what to do
pic related

>>989193
Answer pls

>>989486
plz

>>989486
hit with a rubber hammer

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Is this chain compatible with a 105 drivetrain?

https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/products/pc-1110-chain

thanks

>>989640
Possibly but I wouldn't suggest it.

You can get a rival chain for $10 more according to their RRP and that would definitely work.