Dick Brakes

>>984666

>Sram.
Not even once.

>>984668
yeah yeah i know their rep but I'm broke. I just paid to have them bled in the spring- the shop should warranty this no?

>>984666
[cross chaining intensifies]

>>984666
>My Avid Eliixir rear hydraulic just locked up after 45 min in 100F weather. Will this fix itself when it cools down or should I let out some fluid?
My Guide R brakes haven't made a peep and just this week they installed The Sun directly above the Michigan woods I ride in. I'd take them back and see if the shop has a service warranty.

>>984666
Those brakes are literally garbage. The pistons get stuck easily when they warm up and expand, the caliper can be rebuilt but the kit costs as much as a brand new brake.

They are absolute shit.
Oh, and how could I forget the feel of the braking? Squeezing the brake lever feels like stepping on a shit-soaked sponge while wearing some cheap sandals.

If you let out some fluid then won't you be too low? You need to add new fluid.. just do a full bleed?
btw your a crosschaining nerd

I opened the bleed valve and shit shot out but the brake works now. I'm sure itll be squishy when it cools down. And yes these brakes are shit- good ones will be my next purchase. Changed pads in the rear and now the front is rubbing. Ima just ride it- fuck it. Whats a good inexpensive brake set?

>>984706
The DOT fluid they use is
hygroscopic. What happens is it collects tiny amounts of water over time. When you brake for long periods of time the little water you have in the system boils, expands and locks the brakes.
The solution is to bleed the brakes with fresh brake fluid. If there's nothing else wrong with the brakes there's no need to change them. Only the fluid.

>>984706
I'm >>984709 but forgot to recommend a brake. Anything Shimano will do. Preferably something with ServoWave for better pad clearence. This means Deore and above.
395/445 are just fine from a braking perspective, but pad clearence isn't great.

>>984710
this is prob dumb question but ive never mixed components- will the sram shifters and rs dropper post all fit w/ shimano levers? Ima just order some 395s cause they are cheap and white and cant be any worse than this elixir shit. I never brake hard anyway.

>>984744
It depends on the particular components and in what order you want to mount them. If you want the shifter and remote inbetween the grips and brake lever then it should work assuming you have an indicatorless shifter. If it has a gear indicator then it may have to go on the other side of the brake lever in which case it may interfere with it.

As an M395 and M506 owner (as well as some old school models) I'd highly suggest the M506. They don't cost much more but the lever feel is so much better.

Just get BB7s, shit's cash leave the hydros for the freds.

>>984808
Cables calipers suck, single piston calipers suck, therefore BB5/7s majorly suck.

>>984808
It's not 2002 anymore. There are many fantastic hydraulic discs out there that are both cheap and easily destroy BB7s in terms of modulation, power, ease of maintenance. (Yes. Even when you pair BB7s with Avid Ultimate levers).

>>984666
If you want, you should upgrade them to drum brakes. And if you do that may as well a antilock system. It keeps the wheels from locking up especially after heavy use.

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>>984910
> drum brake
wut

>>984929
sturmey-archer sells drum brake hubs, and drum brake dynamo hubs, and drum brake dynamo igh hubs because why not have a 20kg rear wheel

it would be really cool if they sold combo drum brake disc brake hubs so you can meme while you brake dawg

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>>985056
> drum brake + disk brake

+ V-brake and this beauty

>>985080
I saw one of those that if I understood correctly, it would press the front fender against the tire. I thought it was kinda neat. Can anyone comfirm that I understood the consept correctly, and what is it kalled also?

>>985082
It's called a stamp brake. No, it does not press the fender onto the tire. The fender has a hole, through which the rod presses the rubber "stamp" onto the tire. The stamp is hidden underneath the fender.

It's efficiency is legendary.

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>>985056
>>984929
Shimano makes roller brake hubs that are similar, but improved. They're the lowest maintenence, best modulation and easiest setup of any brake type. Including disc. The only downside is a "slight" increase in weight.
Popular on tandems.

>>985105
Roller brakes are just drum brakes where the drum is separate from the hub, they're just as shit in terms of performance as any other drum brake. There's very little reason to use them, really the only one I could think of is if the bike comes stock with them.

>>985107
>very little reason
A part from extremely long service life, extremely high heat resistence, extremely good modulation and high braking power. This is why they're used on tandems and heavy cargo bikes. Please don't invent nonsense, anon.

>>985108
>A part from extremely long service life, extremely high heat resistence, extremely good modulation and high braking power
Nope, nope, nope, and nope.

>This is why they're used on tandems and heavy cargo bikes
They're used because a lot of weight means a lot of heat is produced on long descents and it's better to have that heat in the hub than on the rim (which could result in the tyre coming off the rim and a crash). They still suck but having sucky brakes was better than having potentially deadly ones. These days we have disc brakes that in comparison perform incredibly well.

>>984826

Whatever man. Enjoy bleeding your brakes in the middle of nowhere.

>>985105
>>985108

Roller brakes have completely - COMPLETELY - awful stopping power.

They also drag against the rotation of the wheel quite a bit.

>>985105
Roller brakes need to be lubed because the rollers need to roll because they are always in contact with the spinning wheel, while as the drum brakes are not in contact with the spinning wheel when the brakes are not engaged. Drum brake are less maintenence than roller brakes.

>>985961
I have to add I have experience with both and the penalty on rolling resistance is not perceptible but the break power of the roller brakes are not on par with sturmey drum brakes.

>>984814
>>984826

>freds

>>984666
>Avid hydraulics

The only Avid brakes worth using are their mechanical disc brakes.

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I've had cheap hydros, and I feel your pain! If you can't pony up to Deore-ish quality, you might as well get decent mechs. The constant and messy screwing around is just not worth the extra performance. Mechs are every bit as powerful, they are just not quite as responsive.
Drums / rollerbrake: safer under sustained loads than rim brakes and weather-proof (good things!) but not of interest to sportos.

>>984666

If you are on tight budget I can recommend Shimano M355 these work great for the price and feel no different than deore ones (I have both)

>>985954
...This is something that gets brought up a lot. In the 16 years I've using hydraulic discs... I've yet to see this happen.

Not to me. Not to anyone I've ridden with. Not to any bike I've worked on in the 10 years I've been a bike mechanic.

Not.

Once.

>>986108

I've seen a guy on the trail hook his hose and get a leak, result: no front brake for the rest of the long ride. I've also heard of more than a couple of guys who have either had a bubble or like OP, gotten water in their brakes.

Hydros if your racing or a trailhead driving fred, but if you've got to get home give me mechs any day.

>>986299
>gotten water in their brakes
How does that even happen though? Are people opening the reservoir outside in the rain?

>>986299
>I've seen a guy on the trail hook his hose and get a leak, result: no front brake for the rest of the long ride
And what do you think is going to happen with a cable? The same thing. It may even end up doing more damage to the lever or caliper.

>if you've got to get home give me mechs any day.
If you can't make it home with a single brake then that's your problem, not the brake's. As I said above the same thing is going to kill a cable brake so unless you carry a spare cable with you (assuming the caliper and lever aren't also damaged) you're still going to only have one brake.

>>986413
Microscopic leaks in the seals of the calipers and riding a lot in the wet. Or cleaning but not wiping the syringes when bleeding.

>>986010
decent mech discs cost more than decent hydro discs.

>>986432
>Microscopic leaks in the seals of the calipers and riding a lot in the wet.
So like, riding around on 10 year old brakes with 30k miles on them? All parts have a useful service life, sure they all fail in different ways depending on the design, but end of life failure is not unique to hydro discs
>Or cleaning but not wiping the syringes when bleeding.
This seems about 100x more likely

>>986438
>So like, riding around on 10 year old brakes with 30k miles on them?
Or you just got a lemon. I killed a BR445 in a single winter. It started leaking like crazy and lubed up the brake pads real good. Took a while to figure out it was the actual brake leaking and not some reoccuring external form of contamination. Shimano uses non-hygroscopic mineral oil instead of the hygroscopic DOT fliud though, so they're a bit more resilient.

Another way is of course filling with an old bottle of DOT that has been inadequately sealed. It will already have moisture in it.

OP again- brakes are working now but can water get in there from washing? I sprayed the bike off at a car wash once. Prob gonna have to attempt a bleed (and prob fail).

>>986467
Never use high pressure water when cleaning your bike.

>>986510
nice meme

>>984666

>fell for the dick brake meme

Switch to mech spryes or sell the bike for vintage v-brake cannydale

>>986568
>Switch to mech spryes
Why would he do that when he could get decent (not SRAM) hydros for the same price?

>>986430

I can just pull out my spare which I usually have when more than a day from home. Or just nigger-rig it enough to get home. even the levers are so simple they're basically indestructable. OTOH all it takes for hydros to leave you fucked is to wrench it enough that you get a leak or smack your reservoir good.

There's no comparison between the two for simplicity, which is why all cars have mandatory cable handbrakes.

>>986729
>I can just pull out my spare which I usually have when more than a day from home.
So a spare hydro can be carried as well.

The vast majority of people don't go out for more than a day and those that do don't go too far from a bike shop. Your issue is in reality meaningless for most riders.

>There's no comparison between the two for simplicity, which is why all cars have mandatory cable handbrakes.
That's not really an advantage. Single speed is also simpler but isn't as good for riding off road, same goes for a fully rigid bike. In all three cases you can either go for simplicity or performance.

>>986854
>>986729
In general I've been pretty thrilled that "touring" values have become a meme. It means useful stuff like carrying capacity, durability, comfort, practicality, and sustainable speed (drop bars, gears, but not full aero autism) have become traits that cyclists seek out

With that said, some people take it too far with these unrealistic scenarios like "what if I'm 1100 miles west of Ulaanbataar and both of my hydros take on water, better gimp myself for no reason so that a yak herdsman can repair my bike with a rock and some tools made of yak horn"

I say this as someone who uses mech discs. I only got them because at the time there were no reasonably priced brifter disc systems. I mean you go out probably with what, 2 or 3 CO2 cartridges at best? You carrying a spare chain? A bunch of spare spokes? No? Then fuck off with your bizarro scenarios where a very specific and unlikely type of crash causes a very specific unlikely type of brake failure and somehow having one functioning brake will completely prevent you from getting home.

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>>986858
>"touring" values
>CO2 cartridges

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>>986729
>all cars have mandatory cable handbrakes
It's not a 'car', but I can't find the cable brake on my truck! Is it just not heavy enough to need one?

>>986854

Oh yeah I'mma just change my full hydro in the middle of nowhere. What are you a shitmano salesman?

>>987181
If you can swap out a full cable brake then you can do a hydraulic one too.

Not that it matters though because almost no one is actually going to be doing that, as I said in the second sentence of my post.

>>987220

Why would you ever need to swap out a full cable brake? It's not like a hydro where if you get a leak you're done.

>>986854

Just look at the bullshit you write. Weasel words and faggotry. Face it, in the field far from home, if you have a serious hydro problem you cannot fix it.

>>987436
If you snag the cable it can very well damage the lever or caliper, so unless you also bring spares of those with you your point is null.

Also your inability to ride a bike with only one brake concerns me.

>>987437
I've never had that happen but if it did it wouldn't matter. I'd simply ride home and fix it there, or if I'm somehow too far from home I'll take it to a shop instead.

>>987119
no e-brake?
plus your petal brake in a car defaults to a cable if the power brakes fail, you have to press really hard though. modern cars even if they stall rarely lose the power to the brakes anymore though so if you are younger than 25 you might not have felt it.

>>987447

>ride home
>no front brake

OK.

>>988429
Do you want me to tell you how I know you suck? If little kids can ride their BMX with no brakes you can damn well get by with just one brake.

>>984668
Double tap > dual lever

>>986036
Seconded. I am now running m355's and no complaints.

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>>985080
DAYUM NIGGA LOOK AT THE CHAIN ON DAT SHORTY

>>984670
>yeah yeah i know their rep but I'm broke.

broke my ass, you own a (what seems like) GarbonTM fully. if you really were broke a wise choise would be a long travel hardtail or smth. SRAM makes fantastic rear shifter, and in that domain outshines shimano by few categories, everything else is garbage (ok Avids performance is nice while it works but when it fails its all pain)

also, very good pedal choice, mg1 kick ass

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>>986434
>decent mech discs cost more than decent hydro discs.

THIS

I wanted to go avid BB7 after I had a mishap that led to a potentialy crash on my old deoreLX (fulid leaked on the caliper due to age, althouhg LX hydros deserve noting but praise) but its simyply to expensive

>>985087
Do any bikes still use them? Can I buy a kit?

>>991141
>>984668
Avids are fucking god tier. Fuck off.

>>991143
>avid BB7
>"decent" mech dick brakes
KEKEKEKKEKEKEK

>>986858

>You carrying a spare chain?

No. But a chain tool, quite so.

>A bunch of spare spokes? No?

Yes, but that is because history has proven that when my corpse, my heir and luggage are combined ( about 200kg of stuff ) then rear wheel takes the beating. I also carry a spoke wrench.

That being said. I never had a hydro leak in 100k kilometers I rode in the last decade. I broke wheels, chains, blown tyres, cracked frames. Recently i gutted Sora brifter. I _never_ had problems with hydros which were not attributed to manufacturer error.

I rock 10 year old hope brakes on my tourer. They work perfectly.

>>993460
BB7 are actually quite decent. But I recently got to compare them to Hayes CX5 ( for, well, cx, MTB version is called MX5 ).

Hayes calipers are way better then Avid. They don't have that annoying slop in the lever avids have, and obviously, not 'tri-align' bullshit on them. The top model of hayes', the CX5pro even has that awesome 'crosshair' adjustment screws, which make setting of the brake a breeze.

>>993560
No, BB5/7 are junk. No single piston brakes are decent and very few cable disc brakes are.

>>993599
BB5 are junk. BB7 are bretty gud.

>>993773
It's pretty much the same shit, the only difference is the BB7 has adjustment on both pads and the pads are a slightly different shape. Neither of those make up for the fact it's a junky single piston cable caliper.

>>993774
>It's pretty much the same shit,

Nope. World of difference because...

> the only difference is the BB7 has adjustment on both pads

... this makes makes a world of difference ...

> and the pads are a slightly different shape.

... and pads on BB7 are twice or so as large as those on BB5. BB7 share pads with old Juicy brakes.

> Neither of those make up for the fact it's a junky single piston cable caliper.

Except BB7 work just as well as Saints 810, Hope 6ti and V2s and are worlds better then Hone. I had all of those ( and a few others ) and the only difference is slightly spoongier feel on mechanicals, which is to be expected, desu.

>>993903
>... this makes makes a world of difference ...
No it doesn't. All it does it make it a bit easier to set up as the caliper alignment isn't as crucial as the second pad isn't fixed in position.

>... and pads on BB7 are twice or so as large as those on BB5. BB7 share pads with old Juicy brakes.
Doesn't matter how large the pads are, it's still a shitty single piston cable actuated disc brake.

>Except BB7 work just as well as Saints 810, Hope 6ti and V2s
Now I know you're baiting, no one of sane mind would believe that.

>the only difference is slightly spoongier feel on mechanicals
That's the second dumbest thing you've said.

>>993903

I love the feel of bb7 they just stop. I run my front with 180mm dick and it couldn't possibly break any harder.

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Y'all niggers need to get with the program and buy some guide RSC's.
Basically guide ultimates with a better price tag, glorious power modulation and a bleed process I can actually do at home without spilling DOT fluid on my pads like a retard (Elixer 7)
Just pony up and enter the real world of MTB

>>995174

>bleeding brakes

>>995178
I bet you still ride cantilevers

>>995180

Funnily enough, I do on one of my bikes. They stop great with koolstops, thanks for asking. :)

>>995182
Missing the point, shouldve gone in depth.
Cantilevers do work fine for casual XC riding, but iif your trying to send some booters with the lads, get hella steezy, and/or contiuously mob down steep techy shit, just buy some modern brakes. Your canti's might last 10 mins before you overheat lose braking power and go OTB.

>>995183

Well I do have dick breaks on one of my bikes, that doesn't mean cantis aren't good brakes. Enjoy pretending to race and paying to use the same overpriced parts that actual racers are paid to advertize. :3

>>984666
What kind of dick breaks should I get for the road bicycle I'm building? I'm planning on getting ultegra brifters. The frames got internal cable routing btw.

>>995284
Something with dual pistons like Spyres, there's also HY-RDs but they're more pricey.

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>>995200
I do race, used to race xc but switched to downhill and enduro and never looked back. Buying off sites like jenson or pricepoint you can get them for a 'reasonable' price
I'd rather not sacrifice braking power in rainy/muddy conditions, especially on a trail where you could actually get hurt

>>995284
BB7 Road, Hayes CX5 or TRP HyRd/Spyre. Avids are most difficult to set up, CX5 are quite easy, I have no idea how about TRP.

>>995917

Can't go fast if you're always on the brakes. I guess that's why you're still buying your own parts with your own money. :^)

>>996120
Yeah I'm nowhere near pro level Lol racing is just fun and I like the feel of disk. If I get a budget cross bike I'll probably put v's on tho

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>>996120

uwutm8

Better brakes = faster bike

Do I need to explain this? Do I need to draw you a FUCKING picture?

>>996182

Yeah I like breaking my dick too feels good man, although I'd be suspicious of that much stopping power without the fat MTB wheels. I've locked up my roadie plenty of times.

>>996188

Sure, let's see it. :)

Break your dick off with this vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oYBxwzgOm2I