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/bqg/ - Bike Question General

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Thread replies: 324
Thread images: 51

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/bqg/ - $18 schwinn helmets edition

I just ordered these brakes (yes they come with the noodles/boots) but they don't come with the attachment bolts. Any old brake attachment bolts should work right?
>>
>>978610

Pretty sure any M5 bolt would work. Make sure they aren't too long, though. It's controversial, but I would recommend loctite on brake bolts.
>>
>>978611
Cool, thanks
>>
light grease the posts
any M6 15mm bolt/hexhead will do
throw them out and get disc brakes
>>
>>978622
>622
nice


>throw them out and get disc brakes
I dun wan 2 die kthx
>>
>>978610
really stupid question, if there's enough space could I put a track cog and a single speed freewheel on the same hub to make a poor man's flip flop?
>>
>>978635
dick brakes have become a meme. literally.
>>
>>978666
theoretically, I guess you could do that by putting the freewheel halfway onto its thread and using the other half for accepting a BSA left side BB cup on which you've put the fixed gear cog, much like the two freewheels in a retrodirect setup (google "how to retrodirect"), but the whole thing would be unsafe as fuck even if you hardcore loctite all threads involved.
>>
>>978610

where tf are the koolstop pads in this pic???
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>>978679
Figured it'd be super unsafe, just wanted to check. Thanks for humouring me!
>>
how much weight can a bike hold?
>>
>>978610
http://www.diamondback.com/bikes-mountain-bikes-trail-hardtail-overdrive-series-overdrive-comp

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/mountain-bikes/cross-country-mountain-bikes/x-caliber/x-caliber-9/p/2045600-2016

which bike has the better components(they mostly have the same components to my knowledge)? how do i research components?
>>
>>978705

Depends on construction and components.

Quite a lot.
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>remove disc brake pads to inspect them
>they don't go back in right
g-guess i'm not riding today
>>
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>>978707
Looks like the Diamondback has a slightly better drivetrain and fork
>>978710
Lol why'd you flip the picture around
>>
>>978705
highkey im like 360 lb and my bike has been holding up pretty well for the past year and a half
>>
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Rear mech pulley wheels have been making noise that no amount of grease can solve
What do
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>>978710
>weaboo
>literally retarded
That was no surprise.
>>
>>978734
says the guy who is posting on a board for autists on a website for fans of chinese cartoons.
>>
>>978739
>please don't call this poster retarded
>this is a board for autists and chinese cartoons
Thanks for proving my point.
>>
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what the fuck guys i could have died

>go ride on some singletrack
>bike feels sort of sluggish for some reason
>ride like normal and do some small jumps anyway
>get back to trail head and hear clunk in the rear end when I hop off
>look back and realize there's no fucking qr skewer in the rear wheel
>mfw I was riding the whole time with my back wheel completely unsecured
>>
>>978753
>lawyer lips
>>
Why are there always triples in low end bikes.

wouldn't it be (slightly) cheaper to produce compact doubles? and it'd be more reliable with just 2, which has to be pretty important seeing as they're gonna be low end shifters and you want to give em an easy job

Is it just because it's a standard and people assume bikes should have 3 because "well when I was a kid..." and think compact doubles will have no range?

or is my hatred of triples just irrational? Seriously I hate them and I only think they're a good idea if you're touring.
>>
>have hardtail 29er
>not really enjoying the technical parts of MTBing
>really enjoying riding my bike out in the woods

should I just sell it and get a CX/Gravel bike instead?
>>
>>978797
If you have the money and it seems worth it, sure.

But you're enjoying it now on your MTB, right? I'm coming from the "if it aint broke dont fix it" camp. It's a hardtail anyway, not like it's a full suspension bike that doesn't do well on anything else.
>>
>>978799
the other side is that if i get a cx bike with rack mounts, I can ditch both my MTB and my commuter.
>>
>>978802
> I can ditch both my MTB and my commuter.
This is not how to bike nerd.
>>
>>978806
this is how to bike nerd when you don't have a lot of storage space.
>>
>>978797
Your woods must not be anything like my woods. Riding my bike out in the woods is about as technical as it gets, in my mosquito infested marshland corner of the world.
>>
>>978817
There's a fair amount of fire road and doubletrack riding in my area, and that's the kind of stuff I've been enjoying.
>>
>>978796
>Why are there always triples in low end bikes.
>wouldn't it be (slightly) cheaper to produce compact doubles?

For some reason, for decades now, people with no knowledge of bikes assume more gears = better

So the guy in Wal Mart is gonna go for the "21 speeds!" bike over the 6 speed commuter
>>
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>>978797

add frame bags, egron grips, aero bars = bikepacking bike

rigid fork optional
>>
>>978829
how much does a decent bikepacking setup cost?
>>
>>978822
Yeah that's the stuff memecross and gravel meme bikes are good at. Although it might make your trails more technical and challenging which you may not enjoy.
>>
>>978610
Is there any rack + rear basket combination that will also let me attach Ortliebs at the same time?

Also, what's up with weight distribution? Any time I have any weight on my front wheels it makes the bike handle like shit, but the best cargo bikes put all the weight up front.
>>
>>978831
A lot depending on how much capacity you need. The bike in that pic probably has around $500 in bags if not more.
>>
Any tall fellas here that can tell me if longer cranks (+175mm) are better? (36" inseam)
>>
>>978848
really the difference is negligible, at least from my experience.
>>
>>978839
A basket on top with panniers below? You just need a rack that has lower mounting rails.

As for weight distribution, front loading toouring bikes have a 'low-trail' design that makes them more stable.
>>
>>978622
Disc brakes shouldn't be used on frames/forks not designed for use with disc brakes because the forces exerted on a frame/fork when braking with discs causes stress that not all frames/forks can withstand.
>>978666
Having a fixie cog on one side and freewheel cog on the other so you can flip the wheel is pretty common practice. Some new bikes even come that way. Not sure if you meant that or something else.
>>978753
gg
>>978775
>rear wheel
>REAR wheel
>lawyer lips
>rear
>lawyer lips
>REAR
>lawyer lips
>>
>>978848

I have that inseam and I was riding 180mm for years. Then I tried 175mm and it was a major relief. I just tested out 165mm today but I think 170mm is where I'm going to end up.

The whole Zinn approach to crank arm fit is bullshit. Look up what triathlon riders think about crank length (shorter = better).

I once bought 200mm IRD cranks but thank god there was a manufacturing error so I got my money back.

This is all just my experience, some people love huge cranks.

What I like about the short ones:

1. Legs don't feel like they're hitting my chest
2. Legs don't feel like they're spinning all over
3. Can spin faster and mash less, better for knees
4. Greater endurance on very long 100+ mile rides
5. Less pain in general
6. Aero position much more comfy
>>
>>978913

Oh yeah and 7. Feels like acceleration is faster

I've heard short cranks make climbing harder, I have not had a chance to test that one.
>>
Upgrading my bike to hydraulic discs, my bike is currently full 105. Should I get the RS505 shifters or the RS685 shifters? Is there better shifting with the ultegra level? (Price is very similar)

They are also different shapes
>>
any recommendations for a fast rolling 27 x 1 1/4 tire ?
>>
>>978635
>I dun wan 2 die kthx
t. someone who never had v-brakes get wet on a downhill track.
>>978753
this almost happened to me, except i realized it before going down.
>>
I have a 1998 Giant rincon. Its time for me to replace the crankset and possibly the front derailleur (it's bent and I don't know if it can be bent back into shape or not).

I just want to get my bike behaving reliably in the cheapest way I can. What and where should I be looking at for replacement parts?
>>
>>978943
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-fc-m590-deore-9-speed-443222t-triple-chainset/

(includes new bottom bracket)

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-sora-3503-triple-9-speed-front-derailleur/

(if it's bottom pull)

Replace the chain and cassette at the same time and they will wear better. Stay the same no of speeds with the chain and cassette, it doesn't matter to have '9 speed' stuff at the front. KMC chain, shimano cassette.

You'll also want;

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-external-bottom-bracket-and-cassette-tool/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-chain-brute-chain-tool/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-performance-7-11-speed-chain-whip/

Plus a tub of grease from an auto parts store & chain chain oil.

You could also get a cable cutter & new cables.
>>
>>978947
>.co.UK
I live in the united States.

Christ, was kinda hoping the crank set wasn't going to run me that much.

Good to know mix and matching components is a safe thing to do. I just replaced the chain on this about a month ago. I doubt its worn to the point that it warrants replacement again, but I should check.
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>>978949
It's just that parts wear together, and if your crank is shot it's probably worn your chain which will wear a new crank.

I'm not from Europe or the US but i'm pretty sure UK retailers are still cheapest for you and the shipping is free.

http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_577244_-1___204713
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_578173_-1___

Slightly cheaper, you have to buy the bb seperately, and it's older crappier tech. The deore for $20 more is a lot better.

Maybe a co-op has something used for cheap? Then you wouldn't have to buy tools either. You also need a tool to remove your crank and one to remove your bb.
>>
>>978949
The parts don't have to be that expensive, the cunt picked out a deore crankset... You can get a $25-$30 shimano crankset on Amazon.
>>
>>978951
Yeah. I get that ideally you want drive train components to be in the same state of wear. I should sit down with someone at a coop or a shop to get a clear idea on how fucked it all is.

I mean if it's in a state where I should be replacing the everything. I should just cheap out on this till I can afford a new bike.
>>
My OTS has a Campagnolo rear derailleur from the '70s. It's in good condition, but the spring is getting weak. How can I get a new spring?
>>
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>>978753
This is the reason (one reason, at least) bikes moved to vertical dropouts. Had you been riding something like this it would have easily fallen out.
>>
>>978976
ask on bikeforums c & v or use google fu
>>
>>978873
I mean more, what should I know to optimally distribute weight on my bike? I've read a little but it mostly seems contradictory and confusing.
>>
>>979082
You're never going to get a straight answer. You can either prescribe to a form of dogma or just try different stuff and keep an open mind.
>>
Are Insera cc7000 20-v tiagra any good? Can get a New one for 500€ but Just today, Been cycling with an old 1 speed for ages and Been thinkinh about cyclocross and now this deal came along.

I cant find any reviews because My phone decided to only give me results in My own Language and comersial reviews that dont tell Me anything important.
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>>979109
>Been cycling with an old 1 speed for ages and Been thinkinh about cyclocross and now this deal came along.
>500€ New
>Just today
I say go for it. First hit on google looks like it's a decent entrylevel bike if you can get it for 500€. Do you have a spec list for the one you're looking at? I think you'll be happy with it for a while.
>>
>>979151Merkki: Insera
- Malli: CC7000
- Tyyppi: Cyclocross
- Runkomateriaali: 6061 hydroformattu alumiini DB
- Koot: 50cm
- Vaihteet e/t + lkm: Shimano Tiagra FD-4600 / 105 RD-5701S 20-V
- Jarrut: Tektro Lyra mek.levyjarrut
- Kiekot: ARAYA AR-713
- Renkaat: Schwalbe Racing Ralph Performance 33-622
- Haarukka: Carbon
- Paino: 10,2kg
>>
Hey /n/, not sure where else to ask

I bought an old but we'll looked-after 10 speed road bike from a hobbyist to use while traveling (Ireland). Since I've started to use it in earnest I've had a slew of mechanical issues; the worst being the chain slipping between the front chainrings, bending the smaller one. I've done a fair bit of riding on more modern bikes and the worst I've ever had is a couple of punctures. Is it more likely that I'm fucking it up or just bad luck?
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>>979198
It's even got the 105 rear derailure. 5700 model, but still.
>>
>>978939
>walmart plastic v-brakes with kinked cables made me have a boo-boo

:^)
>>
I have an 86 Trek 310 wit 27" wheels. What reach calipers done need?

More importantly, how do I measure caliper reach?
>>
>>979297
*do I
>>
>>978610
I recently replace my rear wheel, and have found that in certain turns it begins to slip out from under me, what could be the cause, and is there any solution? I sized up from 35 to 38 if that makes any difference. Thanks
>>
>>979306
All i can think of that would do that is a less grippy tire.
>>
>>979297
>More importantly, how do I measure caliper reach?

just measure from the brake mount hole to the center of the wheel rim. Taking the tire off might help

27" is smaller diameter, so you might want tektro R559 long-reach calipers... (55-73mm). But measure first

Or hunt ebay for some vintage ones. Bikeforums classic and vintage can point you to a good set
>>
>>979273
>I bought an old but we'll looked-after 10 speed road bike from a hobbyist to use while traveling (Ireland). Since I've started to use it in earnest I've had a slew of mechanical issues; the worst being the chain slipping between the front chainrings, bending the smaller one. I've done a fair bit of riding on more modern bikes and the worst I've ever had is a couple of punctures. Is it more likely that I'm fucking it up or just bad luck?

I can't even imagine how that would be possible considering the width of the front chainrings shouldn't even allow a chain to fit there

Is it possible you were sold a lemon? I'm guessing that the crankset could be 8 speed and the 10 speed chain somehow fit between the rings? Wild guess
>>
>>979306

You sized up the rim width, or the tires?
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>>979331
tires
>>
I rode for three hours today, and about 2 hours in, my right quad started to hurt, not really burn, but hurt. Further along the ride, I found that inhaling all the way created a sharp, stinging pain in my abdomen, going all the way through to my back to where my kidneys are. After the ride was over, both of my quads and knees especially were very sore, and it sort of hurts to walk.

Is this just normal fatigue from upping my mileage? Or could it be related to my saddle position? I haven't really had these pains before
>>
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>>979340
>>979306
>>979318

Alright, so rim width effects tire shape.

If you put a larger tire on the same size rim, you get a more dramatic curve.

This means that as you enter a turn, the transition from the center of the tire to the side is more sudden.

You will probably get used to it.

The solutions are to gid gud and keep your center of mass in the correct place while cornering, or to get smaller tires, or grippier tires, or to get wider rims.
>>
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>>979344
>If you put a larger tire on the same size rim, you get a more dramatic curve.
>This means that as you enter a turn, the transition from the center of the tire to the side is more sudden.


Additionally, you get more distortion in the shape of the tire while cornering if you size up the tire without sizing up the rim.
>>
>>979341
same anon here, when I got home, now my right quad is literally unbearably sore, and I cant raise my right knee to my chest without a horribly painful shock after I set it back down.

Can someone help me out here? I don't feel like this is normal. It is the first time I rode 50 miles before, but I don't feel like I should be this demolished after it.
>>
>>979344
>>979345
I like when smart people can explain things in ways that makes sense.
>>
>>979347
Go to a doctor mang. Sharp shooting pains are not normal. At the very least don't ride until you're completely pain free.
>>
>>979341
>>979347

No, this isn't normal.
Your bike fit is completely fucked.
>>
>>979348

Happy to help!
>>
>>979351
>>979349
I've been riding with the same position on my bike for about 6 months now, and I have never had this problem before, I forgive me if I am a little skeptical of you guys saying its the bike fit. Could it not just be a case of over training?
>>
>>979306

grab a tape measure and prepare to be bummed out

your tires are probably too big for your rims

you can compensate for this by over-inflating them, so they don't "flop" on turns, but that defeats the purpose of big, low-pressure tires
>>
>>979344
>>979345
thanks, means a lot, especially with the amount of information hear.
>>
>>979355

No.
You've never had a problem before because you've never done a real ride before. Simple as that.
>>
>>979365
So it could just be a case of doing too much too soon, is what you're saying?
>>
>>979356

That chart and the others you might find on GIS are ancient. They do not necessarily correlate 1-to-1 with modern tire & rim design, though they are fine as a rough guideline.
>>
>>979367

No, it could not.
Your bike fit is fucked. You've never noticed before.
>>
>>978732
I thought I had this problem and it was driving me crazy, then it turned out it was actually the chain, for what it's worth.
>>
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So I have a Giant Defy 3 and the brakes on it (Tektro R312) are pretty weak. I was thinking of upgrading to Sora brakes, which would match the rest of the groupset, but I heard these are pretty weak too.

What are some decent brakes for a novice rider?
>>
>>979382
sram rival
>>
>>979382

Dual pivots are dual pivots.
There will be no meaningful difference in braking performance between one caliper and the next. What matters is how well they are tuned, and the rigidity of the cable run.

Brakepads are another matter. Buy swissstops.
>>
Who here has actually paid for a proper bike fitting service? Is it worth it?
>>
>>979391

Yes, it is worth it.
Knowledge is power.
>>
>>979393
I'm probably the most knowledgeable person on /n/ and that hasn't gained me very many watts according to my PM.
>>
>>979389
Thanks for the tip bro! Given that my LBS is pretty good at tuning, and that most reviews of this model are critical of the stopping power, I will assume it's the pads and look into something a little better. Worst case, I end up with better pads which certainly doesn't hurt.
>>
>>979394

It has compared to the least knowledgeable person on /n/.
>>
>>979355
Either go and get a pro bike fit, wait until the pain completely subsides, and then try riding again, or go and see a gp for a referal to a physio & get a bike fit.

You're looking at fucking your knees for 6 months +/ life here, do you really want to do that?
>>
>>979355
I've had problems like this before. It can definitely be due to poor fit. Is your knee pain towards the outside of the knee?
>>
>>979464
Well, I don't really seem to have much knee pain post ride, except for a little soreness. The weird thing is it's only my right thigh that is really, REALLY sore. The part that is sore is the top of my leg, where the leg meets the hip crease when i'm sitting down. If I try to bring my right leg up to my chest as if I was pedaling, it gets extremely tender and hurts like a mug. My left leg is fine, however.
>>
>>979468
You're fine. Just ride through the pain and it will go away.

Is that what you want to hear? Go get some professional help before you seriously injure yourself.

Baka
>>
>>979368
>That chart and the others you might find on GIS are ancient. They do not necessarily correlate 1-to-1 with modern tire & rim design, though they are fine as a rough guideline.

All my shit is ancient so it still applies

What is it about modern rims / tires that makes them more versatile? Are you talking about dick rims / tubular / tubeless?
>>
Is the Lotus Special Sport Series a good old road bike? I know i have heard that name a bit before but i cannot remember if it was in good or bad regards. there is one around me that i was checking out earlier and i want to know if it would be worth it to go out and pick it up
>>
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>>979572

Are you talking about one of these?
If so, yes. Go pick it up.
>>
>>979579
>>
>>979572
With bikes, 'sport' means entry level, so probably not.

>>979579
Haha wut that is an anomaly.
>>
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How do I stop my disk breaks from grinding?

They always start grinding really loud if I went down a hill and used the break a lot. I think the disk deforms from the heat. Is this normal?
>>
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>>979587

What kind of calipers do you have?

If they are mechanically actuated, most mechs only apply force from one side of the brake caliper. Nothing you can do will ever - EVER - keep your brakes perfectly tuned for the length of even a short ride.
>>
>>979579
if it were one of those, hoo boy i would have gotten it already.

but no, it's just an old steel 10 speed. Pretty good condition and only like $20. I dont know if i should add another bike to my stable though
>>
>>979590
for commuting at night/ into the center city/ into the ghetto/ lending to people, why not mane, always good to have a 0 fucks given bike. Don't fall into the trap of doing it all up real nice though.
>>
Noob to bike maintenance here.

The other day i was riding my road bike and when i pulled the rear brake lever, it lost all tension and went all the way to the bars with no effect. Upon inspection the cable had somehow disconnected itself from the lever, but nothing was broken.

I was able to loosen the cable tension on the back end and get enough slack up front to reattach the cable. However, now when i squeeze the brake lever, there is tension but the actual brake pads are way too far from the wheel to make any contact. I didnt even make any adjustments to the brake position, so im not sure how this happened. I've fiddled with everything i can on the brakes but i cant figure out how to get the brakes squeezed into a position where they will actually touch the wheel when i squeeze the lever.

Sorry for the long explanation. Anyone have any ideas?
>>
>>979595
Pull on the cable with some pliers while depressing the brake lever a few times to seat everything. Then hold the brakes against the rim, pull on the cable and tighten the cable.

It takes 3 hands.
>>
>>979600
Thanks.

So the brake lever should be fully depressed when i tighten the cable? And the brakes should be touching the rim at that moment too?
>>
>>979595

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/dual-pivot-brake-service
>>
>>979601
No, just depress the lever a few times while pulling on the cable, before you tighten it.

They should be a few mm out from the rim but normally the system will give you that few mm when you let go of the cable.
>>
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>>979589
It's hydraulic.
They are fine if they are cool, or if I use them only a little.

But if I brake for a longer period of time, they start grinding periodically, because the disk bends from the heat.
>>
>>979591
I might pick it up as my beater, if its still there when i come back. It already was in pretty good condition. I would just rewrap the bars since it had that godawful foam slip on grip nonsense
>>
Are those all-in-one chain cleaners that have a little reservoir and a spinning brush worth it?
>>
>>979589
>If they are mechanically actuated, most mechs only apply force from one side of the brake caliper. Nothing you can do will ever - EVER - keep your brakes perfectly tuned for the length of even a short ride.
You're so wrong it's not even funny and this has nothing to do with brake rub you idiot. One half being stationary means it's stationary. It doesn't mean it will suddenly move and start rubbing the disc, it means it's fucking stationary.
And yes, the brake pad is in perfect alignment with the disc throughout the wear cycle even on single side actuation disc brakes.
>>
>>979641

Incorrect.

Single-piston mech calipers warp rotors and will not retain proper pad adjustment under any circumstances. "Properly spaced" single-pistons have the stationary pad very slightly in contact with the brake disc. This is unacceptable for obvious reasons. The only way around it is to adjust the stationary pad to be slightly further out, as it would be on a dual-piston caliper. The result is that the actuating side physically presses the disc against the stationary side, which warps the rotor, causes uneven wear of the pads, and results in noisy brakes.

Anyone who has actually ridden & worked on the fucking things can tell you this.
>>
>>979280
actually it was a Tektro. I wasn't hurt, just quite scared. and no, it was not a walmart bike, i would never run them down a track like that, though there was a video of a guy doing this.
>>
>>979587
>deforms i heat
learn to ride properly and use bigger disks, also try replacing (or sanding if it is enough) the brake lining.
>>
>>979649
>will not retain proper pad adjustment under any circumstances
Of course they will. As the pads wear they aquire the same angle as the disc surface interfaces them with.
>"Properly spaced" single-pistons have the stationary pad very slightly in contact with the brake disc.
That's an incorrectly adjusted brake. The stationary pad should be well free from the rotor, and contact only made by the rotor shifting towards it under pressure from the actuated side.

This is not a workaround. This is the intended mechanism.
>which warps the rotor
It slightly offsets the rotor. No plastic deformation takes place.
>causes uneven wear of the pads, and results in noisy brakes.
It's as uneven in the exact same fashion as the rotor pressure is uneven. The two cancel each other out, and after bedding it's exactly uniform. The "uneven wear" matches the "warped" disc.

You fail at installing mech discs.
>>
>>979672
>You fail at installing mech discs.

I concede that this is possible.
But that doesn't make them any less shitty.

For future reference, what is your bedding process?
>>
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>>979572
>>979591
>>979615
The proper number of bikes to own is always n+1, as they say

This thing is in pristine condition, I'm not sure if it was ever actually ridden. The paint job is untouched, the seat is practically brand new, and there's still factory rubber on the tires.
>>
>>979689
Oh yeah, I haven't adjusted anything on it yet so don't worry about that slammed seatpost
>>
>>979654
>tektro
>>
>>979701

Nothing whatsoever wrong with Tektro m8
>>
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Picked this up today. Has a campagnolo nuovo record group but with mafac2000 breaks and breaklevers. Selle Turbo Hinault Edition saddle, phillipe stem. Do you think this is wasted for a commuter? What do you think I could get if I sell it for parts?
>>
>>979689
The proper number of bikes to own is 1 CX
>>
Gonna have to replace wheels soon on my commute bike, since I bought it used so old wheels and I keep busting spokes.

Do these look like a good buy, bearing in mind that IDGAF about weight on that bike, just durability
>>
>>979780
derp

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231934711092?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
>>
>>979781

Listen to this man.

For 26" I'd suggest a Deore + Rhynolite wheelset. Heavy as shit but wide rims for fat tires and solid. Nashbar for ~$120
>>
>>979780

http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=235_350&products_id=2998

I can personally vouch for velomine, they make a good wheel. 5800 is 11 speed, but if you email them and ask for a spacer they include one for 10 speed drivetrains free of charge. Bonus is that if you ever jump on the 11 speed meme train, your wheels are ready to go.

Shipping for me in California is 20 bucks, so its just under 200 to my door.
>>
>>979781
Seems ok, check out velomine too.

>>979761
Not going to post new photos? How does it ride? What did you pay? Greedy jew, why not enjoy it. Super Record EPS is wasted on a commuter, old racing equipment is perfect.
>>
Recently, I removed my quick release front wheel to fix a flat. In process, I lost a washer-like metal piece from the bolt opposite the lever, where the wide-end of the bolt

Does this need replacing? Is it unsafe to use the bike as is?
>>
>>979905

A lockwasher or something?
Won't matter as long as you can still tighten down the skewer lever properly.
>>
>>979655
>sanding brake pads
is this a meme?
>>
>>979701
>what was the best v-brake some years ago
how new are you to this?
>>979920
no, it lengthens the lifetime since you don'T need to replace them, this should save you about 8 bucks a year, just make sure to use 220 gird or preferably higher for sanding and use a bit of rubbing alcohol (and don't let it hit anything other than the pads or the metal around them)
>>
>>979890
way to be a racist asshole. Will post pics after I clean it up. Just thought a collector may have better use and appreciation for those parts, before I get it dissassembled by thieves. Got it for 80€, and it is fun to ride but I don't really have a reference other than a shitty old rusty old 26" mtb
>>
>>979320
Thanks! I found some Dia-Compe side-pulls on ebay that should do nicely.
>>
I was hit by a car and I want to claim compensation for my bike getting rekt. It was a old 1980s carbolite peugeot upgraded Axis Classic wheels and eggbeater pedals Probably spent ÂŁ100 max on it including upgrades. I have all drivers details including insurance, and police report was made.

How much should I ask for it?
Should I ask for a settlement with the driver, or go straight to the insurer?
>>
>>980019
fair would be something between 50 and 100, what could get you more is your level of injury if it was not caused by you.
>>
>>980019
Go through the insurer and have your local bike shop appraise the bike for you. If you're lucky you'll get new replacement value for it.
>>
>>980021
Not caused by me, I was in the oncoming lane. Only injury was a single stitch, I was lucky enough to be flung onto the bonnet and carried to a slow stop. The bike was far less lucky than me.
>>
I'm getting a new mtb frame (I've replaced pretty much every part besides the frame during last year)

I found a good deal online but there's one thing I'm not completely sure.

>Headtube diameter: Tapered 1 1/8" - 1 1/2" (Above: IS42 / 1 1/8" - integrated / Below: IS52 / 1 1/2" - integrated)
What does that mean? Can I install a non-tapered 1 1/8" fork to the frame? I bought the fork about three or four months ago and I rather keep the current fork than get a new one.
>>
>>980019
bout tree fiddy
>>
How can I avoid getting a stiff neck on long descents? I try to get low, but I can't do that and also look at the road ahead without craning my neck back, and then it's stiff for a while.

Are there any stretches or exercises I should do to prevent this?
>>
>>980006
>way to be a racist asshole

lol all he did was call you a jew redditfag
>>
>>980067

You can start by un-slamming your stem and/or flipping it up.

But yeah, stretching will help. Also keep your upper body relaxed rather than tense.
>>
>>980078
Is it possible that I'm also trying to look too far ahead, and that's leading me to keep my head to far up/back?
>>
What's a good price for a road helmet? It seems like $80 is where the good ones start, but I'd like something more like $40. Any ideas?
>>
>>980082

no.
>>
>>979082
I'd say keep the overall center-of-gravity low. heavy stuff in bottom of panniers mounted as low as possible, lightest stuff over the wheel. aftermarket wheel-stabilizer helps up front. wrote this recently about commuting >>976596

this guy is right, though>>979092
>>
What's the difference between center post brake pads and trailing brake pads? Is one better than the other? Google isn't helping me much.

Just replaced the brake pads on my bike and used center post to match what was on before. It's my first major bicycle maintenance I've done myself!
>>
>>980083
all helmets must comply to safety standards, the only difference between pricepoints is really material and comfort (fit, ventilation, etc.) So just start from the cheap shit and work your way up until you find something that satisfies your needs at a price you like
>>
>>980109
>What's the difference between center post brake pads and trailing brake pads?
Trailing pad try to compensate for the brake twisting under the force applied by the contact with the rim, converted to torque through the lever that is the distance between the brake pad surface and the brake arm mount.

Conventionally, on flimsy/light cantilever/caliper brakes, this is handled by adding so called to-in of the brake pad. That is, pre-angling the pad cartridge so that it will turn parallel to the brake surface when the brake assemby is distorted under braking forces. Failure to do so will give any combination of poor brake performance, uneven pad wear, brake judder and squeal.
Making the "trailing" end (actually leading, relative to rim surface) of the brake pad longer means the twisting force, seen by the pad as greated "trailing" end pressure is spread out over a larger surface, evening out to more uniform force over the whole pad; thus behaviour similar to toed-in brake pads without any of the fidgety setup.
>>
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I think i just fucked up my chain thanks to to is fucking stupid ybn quick link that I decided to install on my 10s chain. After putting it together (off the bike, for some reason) and trying to break the piece of shit apart for about 30 minutes, I decide to fuck it and use a chain breaker to put it back on the bike. Long story short, I managed to bend a fucking plate... How fucked am I?

TL; DR: Never buy a no name brand quick link. How should I proceed to unfuck it?
>>
>>980208
This is the culprit. Seriously, fuck this shit.
>>
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>>980208
>>980210

1. Buy another quick link
2. Replace the damage link with a quick link
3. Use quick link pliers to remove quick links in the future

>b-but I don't want to own the proper tools to maintain my equipment.
>>
>>980217
My other kmc quick links require no other tools to take the chain apart. Am I missing something here? Isn't that whole point of using a which link? Also, the quick link isn't damaged. I damaged the plate on another link.
>>
>>980224

>I damaged the plate on another link.

I understand that. Replace the damaged link with a quick link.

>My other kmc quick links require no other tools to take the chain apart. Am I missing something here?

Some are more difficult to remove than others. They also generally get a bit easier to take off as the chain wears.

Quick link pliers are nice to have regardless, as they make it a bit easier to re-install the chain.
>>
>>978610

whats the deal with tire/rim width fitting? I have an old SS rigid mountain bike and I want to throw narrower tires on it for muh speed on the streetz. The rims are 35mm, I was thinking about tossing some 43-45mm tires on it. Thats about a 1.2ish ratio and 1.4 is the min according to Sheldork. I ride a 1.31... ratio on my cross bike and it works gud, haven't died yet. DESU I'm more worried about fucking up my rims.

TLDR: fuck the fat acceptance I want muh skinny, but how skinny is too skinny?
>>
>>978707

this is how you research parts:

>pick shimomo or shram
>look up technical specs
>get bored
>just claim the brand you picked as superior
>???
>profit
>>
>>980231
Well, fuck me sideways, mang. Thanks for taking the time to lighten my dumb ass up. I was chimping out pretty bad an hour ago.
>>
>Gears aren't shifting right.
>Replace chain and derailleur cables.
>Still isn't shifting right.
>When shifting from low to high gear, it won't shift on to the second highest gear. It will only shift when I shift to the next gear. Thus, when it gets to the largest gear, it either does shift or shift to it, but falls back onto the next gear.

What should I do?
>>
>>980252
check that your derailer hanger isn't bent, that's the most common source of odd shifting problems after setting the limit screws and cable tension correctly.
>>
>>980245
Shimano is superior because /n/ says so.
Two years ago SRAM was superior, because /n/ said so.
>>
>>980248
Update on my stupidity. Turns out the stubborn quick link could be opened with pliers nice and easy. I'm an asshole for not googling some answers once my link wouldn't come off easily like the others. Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WNqtRleH1WE

Don't fuck up like I did, and for Christ's sake, use a name brand tool chain or risk fucking up your 40$ chain. Yeah, that had everything to do, otherwise I'd have just had to break my chain and put it back on my bike again and not go through all this shit and hurting my dainty little fingers.
>>
>>980280
>use a name brand tool chain
>use a tool at all
>don't just use some ghetto rigged junk lying around the house
I can already hear the rustling of many MGTOW hearts
>>
>>980280

That method seems like it would be kind've annoying to use with the chain on the bike.
>>
Do puncture-resistant road tires actually work? I've been considering it after getting three needle-like punctures in the last two weeks. Might be some piece of staple wire stuck in the tire or something that I can't seem to find. Are they worth getting?
>>
>>980389

No.
>>
>>980389

1. Buy new tires that don't suck. As in, tires that cost more than $40. That are at least 25c. Install them.
2. Buy latex tubes. Install them.
3. Stop pumping your tires over 100psi.
??????
PROFIT
>>
>>980083

Buy a helmet that hurts you in the wallet a bit.
>>
>>980424
>latex
fuck that shit
>>
>>980052

IS - Integrated standard. IS just means there is a bearing that "drops" into the frame that then interfaces with either a crown race (on the bottom headset) or a split ring on the top.

IS41/42 are basically the same size. Their inner diameter is 1-1/8".
IS52 is oversized and fits a 1-1.5" steerer. Small diameter at the top, big diameter on the bottom = 1-1/8" to 1-1.5" tapered, which is basically standard for most MTB forks these days.

If you want to run a straight 1-1/8" steerer, you will need what's called a conversion crown race. Basically just a crown race that "shims" the skinnier fork to interface with the bigger lower bearing. They are quite common. You will have to find out which crown race fits your particular headset. If you are buying a new headset, choose the headset that comes stock with a conversion crown race.

I suggest Cane Creek 40 series headsets. The headset you will need will be IS42 top, IS52 bottom with conversion crown race for 1-1/8" steerer.

TL;DR If you're buying a new fork, don't bother with anything but tapered forks since that's what your frame takes.
>>
>>980426

Why? Other than them losing air much more quickly, they have basically no drawbacks other than that you have to pump them before each ride, big deal. And they are expensive, yes.

Latex tubes are considerably more durable than butyl tubes, especially when paired with a tire with a supple casing. Believe it or not, it is easier to puncture tires that have tougher casings since thorns tend to stick to the tire more readily on initial puncture, then work their way in. More supple tire casings tend to shed the debris before it has time to bed in and cause a puncture.

You can inject latex sealant into latex tubes and it works much better than running sealant in a butyl tube, meaning that even if you puncture, the likelihood of being able to fix and reuse the tube is much better.

Finally, you can run a lower pressure inside the tire due to the lower rolling resistance of a latex tube, further preventing punctures. It is much easier to pop a fully inflated balloon than a partially deflated balloon. same idea with tubes.
>>
>>980429
Oh, I like them and have them on one of my bikes, but installing them is a pain in the fucking ass, especially when your tire/rim combo is already tough. I'd almost rather deal with gluing tubulars.

I wish that the industry would come up with something that's better than butyl but somewhat easier to install than latex.
>>
>>980424
My Vitorria's are 23c, but only because I have a 2are4u road frame with little clearance. :(
>>
>>980320
Yeah, well, I hope you enjoy carrying your "quick release tool" in your jersey pocket on group rides.
>>
>>980428
>1-1/8" to 1-1.5"
trying to parse this shit gave me autism
>>
For carbon fiber tubular wheels, is there an advantage for having differing-depth wheels such as a 40mm front and 60mm rear? Or is this forseeably a silly thing to do?
>>
>>980516
Tubular or clincher doesn't matter in this situation.

But in any case, it's typical if the wheels aren't even to use a smaller depth in front. Although the front wheel is actually more important for aerodynamics, it's also the one that makes the bike harder to handle in rough wind.

So it depends where you live and what kind of riding you do. If it's a lot of hills, then sure save a hundred grams or maybe more, but otherwise just going 60/60 makes plenty of sense too.
>>
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>>980463
If this were >>/g/, I'd suggest you getting a macbook.

Hey velomi/n/atis, what are the bike equivalents of macbooks? We know what the thinkpads of bikes are, but can we nominate the macbooks, if there are such?
>>
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>>980516
The world you want is different you posh retard.

Also:

*Or is this a silly thing to do?

Learn to fucking talk like a normal person.
>>
>>980534
>We know what the thinkpads of bikes are

Do we?

In any case, bike don't really have the same sort of distinction. A bike that's expensive, fashionable and easy to use. How about those dumb-looking canyon city bikes?
>>
>>980534
>We know what the thinkpads of bikes are
Gaspipe fixies?
>can we nominate the macbooks, if there are such?
Probably I guess I'd have to say terns
>>
>>980535
Learn to not be a narrowminded xenophobic prick.
>>
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>>980570
this is an AMERICAN website
>>
>>980587
How can he be American? He's not obese and he doesn't bomb anyone.
>>
>>980440
I've used every imaginable type of tube and completely fail to see how the install process is any different for a latex tube than a butyl one. You must be doing it wrong. Something. Anything.
>>
>>980633
Never used them myself but I've heard they're a bit.. tacky? (in the sticky sense not tasteless sense) or something and talc powder or similar can really help in the install.
>>
>>980258
>check that your derailer hanger isn't bent, that's the most common source of odd shifting problems after setting the limit screws and cable tension correctly.

I looked at it today, and it seems to be aligned properly.
>>
>>980699
>>
>>980700

I'm thinking it's the cassette. Particularly the second to last gear. The cog teeth doesn't look right to me.
>>
>>980538
No, gaspipe fixies are the macbooks... used by hipsters and has one gear/one port

The thinkpad of bikes would be the rigid 90's mtb, cheap and gets the job done
>>
>>980714
>he thinks macbooks are used by hipsters

ha
fucking everyone uses macbooks
>>
>>980718
If everyone uses them then surely hipsters do too??
>>
>>980721
hmm.....

>>980709
Is that the cog you use a lot? I can't definitively say it's worn (ramps and pins who knows) but replacing the cassette certainly wouldn't hurt.

Have you tried adjusting the indexing with the barrel adjuster, by the way?
>>
Recommend me a first time bike
> For fitness/cardio
> Preferably hybrid
>>
>>980735
Raleigh Cadent 1, looks better than other major company's offerings and has a better fork
>>
>>980735
Oh and under 500. Was thinking about siro 700c
>>
>>980736
Thanks I'll look into it
>>
>>980537
>A bike that's expensive, fashionable and easy to use
AND, most importantly, has a fuckton of *revolutionary* and *ergonomic* proprietary features. in this respect,
>dumb-looking canyon city bikes
are pretty close, and so are similar shit like Vanmoofs and Biomegas, and, perhaps in a little different way, Cannondale is as close as it gets

the only difference from consumer electronics industry here is that no bike make has of course never reached a remotely big market share globally as apple has
>>
>>980761
Are you aware of your use of double negative?
>>
>>980766
oh, thanks for your observantness. I'm usually aware not to use it in english, but sometimes my mother tongue (where it's fine) kicks in
>>
>>980779
It's never fine. Mathematicians in your country must cry themselves to sleep.
>>
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I just found somebody online selling these vintage style helmets. I've always loved the look of them, and they're pretty light and fold up nice and compact, but what's the deal with them? Why did they stop making helmets in this style? Are they safe?
>>
>>980798
Those 'hairnets' offer some protection to your scalp if you're sliding across pavement, but they don't do very much to mitigate impacts.
>>
>>980798
You could argue that no helmet really makes you safer.

That said, these hairnet style helmets definitely won't do anything to protect your head.

They do look cool in a retro way. Some folks even base whole rides and events around these things.
>>
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Am I a dumbass?

Still pretty novice at replacing parts, just learning as I go.

My front v-brake's spring/spring arm finally lost tension and snapped when I tried to fix it, so I ordered a new front brake.

I wondered about sizing but none of the brakes I was looking at had rim sizing noted so I got lazy and assumed one-size-fits-all without really thinking about it.

They came in today, and I went to put them on, but I can't get the noodle to slip into it's holder, the pads press the rim a good ways before the noodle gets into slip-in territory.

Do I have any hope of adjusting this to fit or did my dumb ass go and buy too small of a brake? (Acera BR-M422, no sizing indicated anywhere on packaging or website).

I'm not sure how measuring the rim's thickness works but I'm currently running 700x32 tires.
>>
>>980809
wewwwwww
>>
Do I need to replace my cables and housings?

My right brifter has play in the braking action. It doesn't engage immediately when in use and rattles over bumps and the like. There's probably about 1 cm worth of free movement. When I tighten my brakes, the first pull is good, but subsequent ones have the same amount of play as before the tightening.
>>
>>980809
I'd advise you to first loosen the little nut holding the cable in place
>>
>>980818
Oh sweet Jesus Christ how the hell did I miss that?

I seriously just re-attached the damn thing to the new brake arm, the simplest fucking solutions fly right over my head.
>>
>>980723
>Is that the cog you use a lot? I can't definitively say it's worn (ramps and pins who knows) but replacing the cassette certainly wouldn't hurt.

I think so. It's an old (10+ years) old mountain bike that been unused for the last 10 years or so. I've gotten back into cycling, and I've been trying to get it up to speed.

Maybe I should just get a new bike. I'll see how much it the cassette costs.

>Have you tried adjusting the indexing with the barrel adjuster, by the way?

Somewhat. I forgot to mention this, but the last time I checked, the gears seemed to have work fine on the stand, as long as you keep to the sane cog-chain ring combos (not big cog - little chain ring or vice versa).
>>
How easy is it to convert my giant defy from a 140mm rotor to a 160mm disc rotor. I want to make it easier to swap wheels around my bikes.
>>
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>>980898

You'll need a different adapter-thingy to mount the caliper in the right place. So it's like a ten bolt project. Six for the rotor swap, four for the adapter swap. Should probably also replace your pads and bed them in to the new rotor.
>>
Recommended flat pedal?
>>
>>980982
Just get clipless, it's not as dangerous as you think
>>
>>980986

Nah I have clipless on my other bike, want flats on this one. Don't want to have to buy some spd pedals/shoes.
>>
>>978610
i can't find the laws on riding on the interstate in oklahoma. I'm going to be homeless in a few weeks and need to get to tulsa from okmulgee on bike. Is this legal?
>>
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>>978610

Do I need to spend $100 on a Dura Ace pair to get decent pair of skewers?

I want to replace the plastic capped department store crap I currently have, but are the Shimano mid-range that much worse?
>>
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I want to get some wider tyres for a 28" roadbike wheel but I don't think I can use conventional ones, sine the rim doesn't look like anything I am used to. Can you recommend any tubeless tyres that would fit on that? What width could I use with that?
>>
>>981100
Pretty sure that´s a rim for tubular tyres, not tubeless. That might sound similiar, but the distinction is important. You can only use special tubular tyres with this kind of rim. You know, the kind of tyres you have to glue in place. Normal tyres won´t work at all.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tubular_tyre
>>
>>981098
I am a heavy rider and i like to do them down really tight so my wheels don't escape. I carry a steel bar on my bike for protection and slip that over the end to torque them good. I have broken 5 ultegra skewers so far, which is frankly crap, and next time i will definately be going with dura ace.
>>
>>981107
>i have broken 5 Shimano skewers
>next time i will definately be going with Shimano
>>
>>981111
>thinking the brand is the problem and not the user
>>
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[1/2]

(not my bike)

Pictures are Salsa Cowbell bars. I love and hate them.

I love the outward sweep of the bars. I'll post a second picture to show this.

However, the reach in the drops is too short. And the space at the hoods feels too small as well.
>>
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>>981118

[2/2]

Is there a bar with deeper/longer reach drops that has this kind of sweep/tilt ?

thanks babes
>>
>>981112
1111 here, haven't ever actually broken a skewer m'self either. Only forgotten to tighten them, front one more specifically.
No lawyer lips either, good thing I hadn't picked up any speed and was just lifting the front over a curb. Did end up pinch flatting and bending the front rim while at it.
Nevertheless, they don't need to be cranked down as hard as you can give 'em no matter how much you weigh. Common sense usually works wonders when tightening bolts.
>>
>>981104
Alright thanks man, I just found this to find a referenceo n how wide I could go. So if my frame allows it I could even go to a 40mm width?
I was looking for like 30-33mm width, that should work without problem then?
>>
>>981127
You probably wont find tubulars larger than 28mm, they were made for road racing cycles and track cycles pretty much exclusively.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
>>
>>981129
Would a 28mm fit?
Here is one 33mm for example:
https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content=8;product=96228;menu=1000,4,22,35
>>
tfw hard time getting over spaghetti bringing my bent to the bicycle mechanic.

It has to be fitted and I probably need a new chain or have it chain shortened.
>>
>>978831
>>978844

You can make your own bags for a lot less if you have access to a sewing machine
>>
>>981129
>>981147
And a somewhat related question: Could I just geta used set of wheel and exhange the rims? I guess it has to have the same amount of fittings for the spokes, is this as straightforward as it sounds?
>>
>>981160

No.
>>
Out of the way upright shitters

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7g8BRyLaQgg
>>
Sometimes when I ride, the front brakes start to make contact at a certain point on the rims, making the bike "break" and release for a fraction of a second on it's own and slowing me down.

What do, /n/? I know jack shite about bikes, but I'm trying to learn.
>>
>>981272
You need to true your wheels. Google it. You'll need a spoke wrench and you can use your brake calipers as a ghetto truing stand.
>>
>>981272
>front brakes start to make contact at a certain point on the rims,

Your front wheel is probably "out of true" -- it has a wobble.

It can usually be fixed by tightening the spokes if the bike hasn't been in a bad crash. But it's a job for a decent mechanic or high-level hobbyist

Here's what I'd do.... If you have a shit bike, figure out the size and order an ALEXRIMS brand wheel off of amazon or ebay. It's usually around $30 to have a rim trued, but a cheapo wheel will be around $50 brand new

If the wheel is worth more than $50, take it to a shop and have it worked on
>>
>>981275
>You need to true your wheels. Google it. You'll need a spoke wrench and you can use your brake calipers as a ghetto truing stand.

You can't send a newb off to true a wheel, they will fuck it up 99.9% of the time and make things more confusing for whoever has to fix it
>>
>>981280
He said he wants to learn and that's how you learn, by fucking it up and figuring it out.
>>
>>981275
>>981277
thank
>>
Should I own a mountain bike if I live in Central Florida?

Currently have a shit one, but thinking of buying a road bike instead.
>>
>>981287

You should sell your bike and your body and whatever else it takes to move the fuck out of Florida.
>>
>>981288
Orlando isn't that bad
I'm straight btw
>>
I've be noticing some skidding with my back wheel when I have the brake full engaged, where I can skill apply force and the bike moves, with the back wheel not moving. This doesn't happen with the front wheel. Realigning the brake pads (one was tilled relative to the rim) doesn't work. What to do?
>>
>>981363

You have two options:

1. Ride backwards

2. Alter the laws of physics
>>
>>981363
Use the front brake more?
>>
>>981363
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html

A- get gud
b- hectic skidz
>>
What should I look for if I'm trying to find good trails innawoods for a cyclocross bike? Stuff that'll be challenging but won't wreck the bike in the way that a MTB trail might.
>>
>>981365
>>981366
>>981372

I should clarify what I mean. If I'm off the bike and I press the brakes as hard as I can, I am able to get the bike to roll on on it's front wheel, while the back wheel remains stationary. This doesn't happen with front bike, and I got remember this happening before when I tried a similar test.
>>
File: mountain-cycling.jpg (709KB, 1920x1200px)
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>>981378
climbs mane
>>
>>981383
so your front brake can't lock the wheel, or it can and you're worried that your front wheel can't skid?
>>
>>981386
>so your front brake can't lock the wheel, or it can and you're worried that your front wheel can't skid?

Ah, when I said "break", I should have "the back brake" instead. The front breaks seem to be in perfect working order.
>>
>>981388
So, you want the back brake to not be able to lock up the rear wheel? Try adding some oil to the braking surface, or loosen the cable so the pads only barely connect with the rim.

also read;

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
>>
>>981107
Fucking idiot. Stop overtightening your skewers, that's why they're breaking. You're wheel isn't going to "escape" where the fuck did you get this information?
>>
hey, am i allowed to ask about tricycles in here? i haven't ridden a bike in 20 years or so and the last time i tried i couldn't keep balanced for shit. do you guys have some regulars that ride tricycles that could give me purchasing advice?
>>
>>981405
BACONRIDER! We call for your expertise!
>>
>>981405
Saint Sheldon wrote a little something on this subject.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/org/greenspeed/
>>
>>981383
>>981388

You've got it all wrong. Your back brake is the one that seems to be in perfect working order. Your front brake needs adjustment, and possibly new brake pads.
>>
>>981405
Recumbent riders call them trikes because tricycles are for kids.

Catrike makes really good stuff, as does Hase and HP Velotechnik and Greenspeed.
>>
>>981405
you were going too slow, just find an abandoned parking lot to practice and you'll be fine in no time

the reason trikes aren't popular is that they need exotic expensive materials and components not to weight 100 pounds, which makes decent ones ungodly expensive, and even still they will suck for hilly terrain and are too bulky for filtering in heavy traffic, enjoy spending $10k on a vehicle that's ok for straight lines in suburban subdivisions, i.e., basically a murder cage minus the internal combustion engine
>>
why are triathalon bikes less expensive than standard road bikes?
>>
>>981477
They are?
>>
>>981479
yeh when i look up new bikes the highest end triathalon bike is always far less than the highest end road bike for each manufacturer.
>>
>>981151
those people are professionals. they are literally there for the express purpose of helping you fix things you can't fix by yourself.
>>
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>>981511
>those people are professionals
>>
>>981449
>>981453
recumbent trikes seem like fun but i'm a little intimidated by being super low to the ground. i had the tall dorky ones in mind, having the big basket on the back is also a draw for me

>>981456
>you were going too slow
i absolutely believe this, also i was on an old bike that was fine when i was a scrawny beanpole of a kid but not so much now

i'm in a very flat area (thanks texas) -- my town has no hills. i'm not exaggerating. we have an extensive greenbelt trail system that connects to basically everywhere including a couple of parks and a lot of lakefront. this is where i want to ride.

which brings me to my biggest concern, sharing that space with other people. do people hate upright trikes because they're so wide?

if trikes end up not being a good fit, i did know an older woman with a nifty cruiser that had a big basket on the back. just a matter of finding my balance confidence again

thanks everyone for the help so far
>>
>>981518
>i had the tall dorky ones in mind
You might as well walk. Dork.

(Yeah, this is me sneering at the dorky kid with bottle bottom glasses and pants hiked up to his armpits.)
>>
>>981507
I've noticed this too. too bad I have no interest in them because I often see used tri bikes for like 500, vs similar $1000 road bikes
>>
>>981525
oh trust me i already feel like such a dork walking around with my camelbak and my little ballcap and extra water bottles (this heat is no joke) that i will feel LESS dorky being on an upright trike
>>
>>981477
I suspect it's two things:
>market size
compared to normal road bikes they're pretty niche, and as far as I can tell most manufacturers make bikes that can be adapted for either tri or TT use

the other thing is
>complexity
I don't know if you can buy aluminium tt bikes, but I kind of doubt it. That alone bumps up the minimum price, consider it's an aero frame, there's tons of integrated and proprietary shit, and at the high end they have two sets of shifters.
>>
>>981477
>why are triathalon bikes less expensive than standard road bikes?


Real answer: Because marketing and shit.

Real-ish answer: Because tri frames are built more for aero & maximum rigidity than light weight. An overbuilt frame is cheaper to manufacture because it will be less prone to defects and QC issues.
>>
File: alcantarilla11.jpg (168KB, 800x600px)
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So I just fucked up my front rim because it got stuck one of these fuckers. I know the rim is totalled but my brand new Tiagra 4700 brifters are quite scratched. What should I do? Suck it up or replace the nameplate? Help me dela with the pain, bros, these fuckers were not even a month old.
>>
This is how they look now. 1/2
>>
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>>981572
2/2
>>
>>981572
don't take this the wrong way but... tiagra. the beat up "street" aesthetic kind of goes right with that. not that I would even worry about it on dura ace. I don't seek out crashes but when they happen, they happen. nothing to be ashamed of unless there's a story behind it that makes you look bad, in which case, lie

also that damage looks very mild
>>
>>981572
>>981573

I've done more damage to nameplates while changing a flat.
>>
>>981572
>>981573
Previous anons are right - those are not even close to looking bad, and it's not uncommon to see STI levers with more scrapes and scratches than yours have. It's pretty normal to see those parts scuffed up because bikes get crashed, leaned against things, fall over, etc. all the time, nothing to be upset over.
>>
>>981569
That's a fucking stupid design for a drain cover. The city's DOT shouldn't be allowing that shit.
>>
>>981572
>>981573
you could sell them on ebay and buy new shifters. consider the money lost as the price for "cosmetic repairs"
>>
>>981535
But wouldn't you like to feel somewhat cool instead, zooming about on a recumbent?

Regardless, i can't help you directly, but buying a trike can't be that different from a bike. First thing you need to is find a seller: either local or online. You might even me lucky and find one second hand. They mostly tend to be pretty rare but just today i saw an upright handtrike on my local craigslist equivalent.
Then ask salesman for help and/or ask more specific questions in bike buying general.
Just
>I want to buy a bike. Find me a bike to buy.
is kind of annoying to try to answer.
>>
File: 20160716_145324.jpg (2MB, 3264x1836px)
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Which hole do I use to install a rear rack?
>>
>>981609
Probably want to use the upper threaded hole. The other can be used for mounting fenders.
>>
>>981609
The top one. Wider spaced and fender struts would interfere with the rack if you tried to do it the other way around.
>>
>>981609
doesn't really matter
>>
>>981589
That's how we do things in the third world.
>>981588
>>981576
>>981583
I guess I did overreact a bit. Thanks for the support. Even if the Tiagras aren't that much of a financial loss to most anons, I did save up to buy that groupset for months. I guess I'll stand them down and put some nail polish on them to make them look less shitty. Now I'm only worried about replacing my taco mavic.
>>
>>981599
durr i didn't even think of craiglist, thanks!

i asked here because if there are any huge issues or if upright trikes are absolute dogshit that aren't worth riding, i feel like someone will give it to me straight as opposed to a fluffy blog post or a salesman trying to get my money, you know? i appreciate the reply though
>>
>>981287
bumping this question
>>
>>981625
>central florida
You might as well have kept it at continent. Are there any good trails near where you live that are accessible to you, personaly? If yes and you like mountainbiking, buy a bike. Seriously, anon, think your questions through for half a second and if you don't get replies you asked it wrong. It's not even answerable the way you framed it.
>>
>>981624
It's a townbike with a third wheel. It's going to be heavy, it's going to be slow, it's probably going to be relatively expensive. /n/ tends act quite elitist about their bikes, myself included, so the kneejerk reaction as you've already seen is that no, they are not worth it.
But ultimately you're the one who's got to know what you want.
>>
>>981626
Yeah sorry, looking back at my question a few days later I realized it was borderline incomprehensible. What I meant to say is that I own a beat-up basic mountain bike and was wondering if I should instead dispose of the bike and buy a road bike. I'm currently considering doing this as I might need to do some commuting to college, not to mention, they aren't any particularly interesting trails near me.
>>
File: yowapeda.gif (2MB, 500x281px) Image search: [Google]
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I don't have plans to buy a bike now but...

Are bikesdirect bikes the same tier as walmart bikes? As in, are they BSO's for the cheaper options on BD? What qualifies as a BSO anyway?
>>
>>981648
A BSO is built to survive the trip from Wal Mart to the customer's garage. The "adjustable" parts (brakes, derailleur, etc) are not very adjustable, the spokes will not hold tension, the frame is made out of the cheapest materials and manufacturing techniques that will produce an object that outwardly resembles a bike frame but lacks the strength, weight requirements, and handling properties of even a low end "real" bike

Some guy posted a picture of a walmart "road bike" where the handlebar was actually two separate pieces of metal joined under the stem clamp. The reason for doing this was to permit the use of some fucked up shifter system that doesn't exist on any known bike anywhere else in the world outside of walmart, but probably looked "cool" and was very inexpensive. Needless to say this is a recipe for disaster.
>>
>>981648
>>981665
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkMnk_eCDQU
>>
>>981648
I think that the BD component groups are "real" but the frames are heavy, shitty steel? my impression is that they're a better buy than a dept. store bike but plenty of people here still classify them as crap. OTOH, /n/ can be pretty aspie/elitist.
>>
Can I remove or install a 24t 74bcd chainring from a 110/74 crank without removing the crank from the bb?
>>
>>981616
don't do that, they look fine
>>
>>981741
pretty sure no

>>981648
You will need to tune the gears, brakes, check torque on everything, and true the wheels. If you take it to a shop to do the work it will negate any money you've saved, as you won't get a good price for service on a BD bike (except getting the wheels trued if you take them off first won't be too bad- as that does take a bit of skill). So if you're not retarded and inpatient its fine, but if you're easily irritated and can't look stuff up don't do it. Also for the same reasons you might as well buy a second hand bike if you have a good local market.
>>
Got caught in the rain twice recently. I wiped my bike down before bringing it in but forgot about the chain. Some rust has accumulated as a result.
What's the best approach to removing the rust before cleaning and relubing my chain?
>>
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>>981665
>>981741
>>981751
I see. I do own a BD bike and the components are legit I guess, just not sure about the lower end models. Assembly was easy considering I volunteer at a co-op. Just curious.
>>
Are there any decent GPS trackers that are under 100? I haven't rode bikes for a while because every bike I've had has been stolen, but I've just started thinking about these things.

>inb4 "hurr lock your bikes up take them inside"
Locks haven't stopped those niggers and spics before, and taking them inside only helps when I'm home. Besides I'm looking at a 1 cylinder engine kit to throw on there for shits and giggles and I don't want my house to smell like gas.

Also are these 10-15 dollar bike computers any good if I just need a speedometer?
>>
Can someone please explain to me how to use presta pumps? I don't get how they're supposed to work. I know the valve is unscrewed first though.
>>
>>981805
I'm not sure I understand.

The valve is closed when the pin is up, the screw forces the pin to stay up. Unscrew, push pin into the pump, lock it, pump.

When you remove the pump, the pressure inside the tire forces the pin into the up position, screw down so it's locked and then you can go.
>>
>>978829
i was just going to ask if i was retarded for wanting to put drop bars and a rigid fork on my 29er for a general-use bike now that i have a full suspension bike for am/trail stuff.
rec me a decent set of alu bars and fork?
>>
Is a ty-25 compatible with a 6 speed cassette?
>>
>>981813
Yes. It only matters if it is compatible with your crank and your seat tube.
>>
What is the most prudent purchase for all-round versatility, racing and training for a non-mountainous, mildly-undulating terrain? 45mm carbon wheels or 65mm carbon wheels?
>>
>>981840
None of them if wind is ever an issue. If you're only going to own one set of wheels for everything, make them <30mm profile. There are very aero low-to-mid profile rims these days.
>>
>>981838

Crank is triple up to 48 and mine is exactly a triple 48, original fd was 31 and this is 28, I checked and the clamp fits just right, so I guess it'll work. Thank you.

Oh, one more thing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJB1L6gj4nI

I usually follow this method for indexing (trigger fd shifter), other than low limit being set with no cable and high limit with cable is there any other trick?
>>
>>981811
Yeah but I've had a lot of trouble. When I got my bike the valve pin was bent (second hand bike) . Changed tubes since then and the new tubes have shorter pins so it's clear there is no standardisation. My first floor pump was cheap and it was hard to get it to seal. On too far and it wouldn't work, when it was compressing the pin (was very hard to get it in the exact correct position to do it) it would leak air outside the connector.. Also this connector got stuck on the valve despite leaking and had to be pulled of hard. . I understand how to unscrew the valve first and unlock/lock the pump.

New pump is supposed to be better quality but when I put it on the valve the pressure gauge doesn't register and nothing happens so it can't be pushing down the pin. I don't know of if I should try more force or not. I do have a hand pump that I can get working, it's fine but still more difficult than a schrader, I never have problems with those. Even though I understand that presta should be superior in theory. .
>>
>>981857
are you putting the valve at 6 oclock?
>>
>>981865
Am or PM?
>>
Two questions I'm gonna throw out:

1) how do you guys keep a bike upright if you wanna take sexy bikeporn instagram pics?

2) Which website does the best bike reviews?
>>
I'm the same anon that totalled his front wheel on the rain drainage designed by Pedro and Juan. I just noticed that my folding Vittoria has a pretty bad gash. Is this shit still usable? It didn't even have 500 km on them.
>>
>>982044
Does it look like it can be repaired with superglue?
>>
>>982044
speaking personally and without any authority or specialized knowledge, I'd be comfortable riding that tire.

you don't show the interior, but if the gash does not extend all the way inside, then I'd say you're totally good and I've ridden similarly-worn tires without event. I'd keep an eye on it. if the hole ends up eventually wearing thru, then…

if the gash _does_ extend thru to the interior, I'd use rubber cement/vulcanizing fluid to affix a bit of an old tube or a big patch over the INTERIOR SIDE of the hole. use something that has a lot of space around the hole on all sides. again, this is something I've personally done.

not sure if I'm an idiot for doing these things or not, but I never experienced any problems.
>>
>>982054
Well, no. It doesn't go all the way through. That's why i was thinking about using superglue to close the gash. I'll keep riding it and keep an eye on it, i guess. Thanks.
>>
>>982057
I don't think it'd be bad to put superglue in there, but it's pretty brittle when it dries and my guess is that the glue would crack immediately after riding. but no harm in trying. maybe Gorilla Glue?
>>
>got a flat tire today.
>piece of metal punctured the tire to the inner tube.
>was able to patch it.
>but it only lasted for ~2 hours.

It looks I'll have to replace the inner tube. I am going to have replace the tire as well?
>>
>>982049
The white stuff is the cord. Do not ride tyres with damaged cord. If you're in an absolute emergency you should at least put it in the back where the consequences of a blowout are a little more manageable.
>>
>>982177
Thanks, anon. I will definately put that one on the rear wheel. Also, the picture looks worse than it is. They cord isn't actually showing but I'm considering some gorilla glue to toughen it up. Thank you!
>>
>>981107
>local retard can't properly operate quick release skewer
Thread posts: 324
Thread images: 51


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